Re: Water hoses in engine room


Vic Fryzel
 

Thanks James & Craig. All great advice that I'm gonna use for this project.

For folks in San Diego, I found San Diego Marine Exchange who is a Scandvik "dealer." They sell the ABA clamps for what seems like a pretty reasonable price if you buy a 10-pack. I'm still sorting out which sizes I'll need. Scandvik sells a cruiser pack for a few hundred bucks that seems to have a variety, but not sure how useful that is.

Thanks!
- Vic


On Thu, Aug 20, 2020 at 12:12 PM Craig & Katherine Briggs via groups.io <sangaris=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Vic,
You note you've got a West Marine (WM) nearby and Kevin said he used Defenders. I just did a bunch of replacements - WM was $7.29 for the Scandvik ABA 316 SS SAE10. A local FL store (Boat Owners Warehouse) has it for 3.92 and Defender is $2.99. Buying many clamps makes Defender's shipping charge minor. Scandvik ABA is excellent. WM has Scandvik add a digit to the clamp number so they can call it a private brand and refuse to price match, saying it is not identical - it is.

Double clamping has been highly recommended for thru-hulls (with long barbs). Not important for fresh water, sea water on pump discharges and engine coolant as you likely won't sink if those go.

My project was the hot water tank.  To clean just remove all the hoses and electric feed, then drain and take it out of the engine room. Pull the heating element and plumbing fittings. Then rinse thoroughly, shaking it around and upside down to slosh out any sludge. If you've got rusty sludge, rinse and slosh some more with a bunch of phosphoric acid to passivate. Reassemble with fresh teflon tape on the pipe threads and maybe put in a new heating element - every few years is good for those - and do check the wiring for any electric corrosion.  Don't forget the clamps on the copper distribution pipes along the hull - mine were buried in sound insulation and rusting badly.

Mine is a 16 year old IsoTemp that had a tiny leak at the hot outlet that dripped down and corroded the thermostats. I had patched a side wall leak with JB Weld 15 years ago and that was still good (JB Weld rocks!) but I peeled that off anyway and redid both with a new JB Weld "Marine" version for $8. Replacement generic button thermostats = $3. Replacement heating element $12. Total repair $23 vs new IsoTemp at about $700.  I did put it on the "repair-again" list for 2035. 

Craig - SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL

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