On the output side of the pump (where the pipes come in and go out), there is a pressure switch which turns the pump on and off as the pressure dictates. When the pressure goes down to zero, there is a safety
function on the pressure switch which keeps it off. I am not on the boat now and so cannot provide photos, but have experienced what you are talking about.
The pressure switch mechanism is a grey plastic box about 3” by 3” by 3”, and has the Square D (manufacturer) logo on the top. On the right side, of the pressure switch mechanism, towards the base of it,
is a small chrome/stainless steel round rod/lever that when pulled up, will manually start the pressure pump, and after a moment or two, it will maintain the pressure normally.
Specific instructions (from memory) are:
- Be sure all the water taps are closed.
- Turn the 24v water pump breaker on (you won’t see a light illuminated until the pump actually turns on).
- Go down into the engine room and put your hand on the right side of the grey Square D pressure switch. With a flashlight, you can probably look at the
lower right side of the pressure switch and see the chrome lever.
- Pull the lever up, it only needs to move a half inch or so, and the pump should engage.
- On my boat, there is a pressure gauge on the top of the pump that shows the pressure in the freshwater circuit downstream of the pressure pump.
- If you hold the lever up for 5 -10 seconds, the system should engage normally without you needing to keep holding the lever.
This is all that should be required to get the system back into “normal” mode. Both the pump and the pressure switch are very reliable, and shouldn’t need to be adjusted or rebuilt for 10+ years.
That being said, anytime the system is drained/relieved of pressure, the manual lever will have to be engaged to get the pump re-engaged.
Best of luck.
John W. Clanton
S/V Devereux, A55, No. 65
Currently in Antibes, France
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