eric freedman <kimberlite@...>
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What you are referring to as Barge cement sounds exactly like Contact cement is applied. My shoemaker uses contact cement. It is also used to adhere laminates such as Formica to countertops.
On October 14, 2020 at 3:09 AM david bruce <davidcbruce57@...> wrote:
I’d second Eric’s suggestion to use 4200 (or Sikaflex 291), 5200 is primarily an adhesive, not really needed in your application, additionally they are more flexible than 5200 thus less likely to micro crack over time. Just a heads up on a couple other issues I came across, neither 4200 or 5200 specifically mentions using on SS, just aluminum or (other metals), there have been accounts of 5200 curing poorly or not at all in very hot, humid climates and a couple years ago there was a major recall of defective 5200 in Australia. ( not sure where it all went, Thailand perhaps? :), As far as the headliner, I haven’t had much luck w contact cement but Barge cement works well, used for shoe soles initially, just thin layer both sides, let dry, put together, (and need to get it right the first time, won’t readily come apart to flatten wrinkles etc. Good luck.
Thanks for the photos.
I would prefer to use 4200 over 5200. 5200 is very permanent. Is there a reason you want to use a strong adhesive versus a strong sealant?
The bolts are doing the adhesion, I think you just need to waterproof the bolt holes. The area around the holes might be rotten and the bolts might be corroded due to anaerobic corrosion. I had this happen on another boat of mine. I was on one side of a chain plate with a wrench on the bolt. I asked my friend to turn the bolt. He said he was turning it. nothing was happening on my end.
The bolt was completely corroded through .
On October 14, 2020 at 2:30 AM Ken Powers SV Aquarius <ken@...> wrote:
Here are some photos of the job at hand! I talked with some local boaties here at Krabi Boat Lagoon, and they suggested 5200. It has been raining for 5 days straight, and looks like it will continue for the next 6 days. I am thinking once it stops for a day or two, I will do the following.
1. Remove 1 or 2 of the bolts. Not to remove the entire chainplate.
2. Clean hole and bolt with alcohol.
3. Put good amount of 5200 into hole.
4. Replace bolt or bolts and try to get as much of the 5200 off the treads. So that I don't glue the nut onto the bolt.
I am told that this will not be a problem, any thoughts?
5. Repeat until finished with all the bolts. Except, I am only planing to do the 4 bottom bolts under the rub rail, not the single bolt in the middle of the chainplate. This bolt does not show signs of leaking, and even if it did, the leak should be at most, minor, due to the location. Unlike the 4 bottom bolts which could submersed in water for extended periods of time. And thoughts about this decision?
6. Glue interior back together. Still wondering what adhesive to use to re-attach the interior lining. It's like Humpty Dumpty, just hope I don't need all the Kings Horses, and all the Kings men.
7. Replace Rub Rail rubber piece.
Anyone have thoughts about my intended procedure?
In Krabi Boat Lagoon, Thailand