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To give an update:
An refrigeration engineer friend came to have a look and found the system low on refrigerant, but couldn’t find a leak. The usual culprit (the seals in the quick fittings) were not at fault. We opted to top it up and see the evolution. 2 weeks later, it’s still good. Keeping an eye on it.
I also found the fan that cools the heat sink on the compressor to be dead and replaced it. Pic attached in case you want to get spares. It’s a 24V unit but the system runs it at 12V. It’s pretty standard and costs a few dollars on Amazon.
On Thu, 24 Sep 2020 at 19:37, Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...
An LED bulb will not work. You need an old style LED Diode. These have the two long pins that are usually installed on circuit boards and usually come in a red color. You could have other colors too, which is fine. You can usually find
them in electronics stores. Try reducing the RPM to 2000 and see if that helps. If it does, and the compressor starts and stays on and the fridge cools, then your compressor may be getting to the end of its life.
We just replaced the compressor under the top load refrigerator in the galley. I think all of the three compressors are the same or very similar.
Mohammad and Aty
AMEL 54 #099
Hi tried rigging one of my led saloon lights to the connection points on the controller but it didn’t show anything. I blame my rigging/understanding of the connection points. As an aside, i believe the fan attached to the metal radiator
on the compressor to be failed.
The potentiometer is set to 3000 rpm at present.
Did you replace just the compressor part, or also the evaporator? Our issue applies to the Stainless steel unit, which is our primary fridge.
On Thu, 24 Sep 2020 at 13:58, Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...> wrote:
We had a similar situation last year. The controller on the compressor is equipped with an LED or a connection point that an LED can be connected to, so the unit will give you one
of 4 or 5 error codes. I do not remember exactly as it was a while ago and I do not have all of my notes in front of me.
There is also a potentiometer (variable resistor) on the board that allows for selection of the compressor RPM. In our case, reducing the RPMs from max RPM of 3500 to 2000, fixed
the issue for about a year. After that, the problem reoccurred and our investigation, along with a trusted dealer in Corfu Greece, led to the conclusion that the compressor had failed an we ended up replacing the entire unit.
Lowering the RPMs has the effect of lowering the load on the compressor. So if the compressor is marginal, it will work for a while. The effect of lower RPM on the performance of
the refrigerator, is the speed at which it cools the unit down to the desired temperature. Our unit was 11 years old at the time and we felt had provided an expected life for the product. This was the top load refrigerator in the galley that gets a lot of
Mohammad and Aty
AMEL 54 #099
Our fridge evaporator seems to be partially and intermittently cold. And the compressor runs but stops after a while. It had happened recently that the fridge stopped cooling but
after a stop and start, i heard a hissing noise near the evaporator and it worked again for a few weeks.
I searched this forum for contributions and found plenty around refilling the system with cooling gas, amongst other solutions that I will investigate.
However, I was under the impression that there was a discussion about ice crystals clogging the evaporator circuit and some filter that could be changed. I cannot find that discussion
though and may have dreamed it altogether...
Any advice on that front?