Re: Persistent TMD22 overheating

Patrick McAneny

Jose, I had taken out and cleaned my heat exchanger several times trying to solve an overheating issue. I decided to buy two new rubber end caps for the heat exchanger from parts4engines . I actuall bought the one for a Perkins  M80 same engine as the TMD22a and the caps were $300 less. When I purchased the caps ,up popped a side bar suggesting that this rubber ring is  frequently bought along with the caps. I did not know what the ring was ,but bought it . I discovered that this ring was missing from the heating exchanger tube ,allowing same of the coolant to bypass the H/E . If you have the same engine as I have ,there should be a rubber ring slid around the tube about 3/4 of the way down the tube . It closes off a section of the exterior vessel directing the water flow ,which would otherwise not be cooled.
That was probably not clear , so if you have two rubber boots on the end of your H/E,take out the tube and check,there should be a ring around the core,if not that is likely your problem. The newer models have metal end caps ,I don't know if they have this ring or not . My ring had  deteriorated ,I found bits of it inside the vessel. If you have the rubber boots ,let me know , we can talk on the phone or I will clarify in an email.
Hope this Helps,
SM Shenanigans

-----Original Message-----
From: Jose Venegas via <josegvenegas@...>
Sent: Sun, Sep 5, 2021 1:02 pm
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Persistent TMD22 overheating


Can you be more specific about the sleeve, or lack of, that caused the overheating of your Volvo TMD22?  Ipanema has persistent overheating at high RPM after cleaning with BB both heat exchangers and having ruled out most of the potential causes described by Bill Rouse on his manual that he recently posted and I am copying below.

BTW, I would add two more potential causes:
1) A small leak of air into the freshwater pathway upstream of the pump. This leak only shows as a small collection of salt around the hose connections when the engine is not running but is enough to allow entry of air that increases as the engine RMP increase.  A similar entry can occur through the seal of the seawater strainer cap.  The effect can be exaggerated by a minor restriction of the pathway upstream of the leak.  I recently fixed such a leak and the engine temperature came down (205 F) but I think it is still too high.

2) A calibration error on the temperature sensor/gauge system.  This gave me a difficult time a year ago as I was arriving in Curazao and was caused by corrosion of electrical connections.  
Quoted from Bill Rouse's Post:

Possible Causes of Overheating:

1. Restricted seawater flow anywhere in the pathway beginning with the seawater entry into the sea chest to the seawater and exhaust exit through the hull. 
a. Sea Chest restriction
b. Hose restriction or kink
c. Restriction at the input to the in-line transmission oil cooler, if equipped
d. Failing seawater pump and/or failing seawater impeller
e. Restricted Exhaust Elbow
2. Restricted Coolant water flow
a. Failing coolant water pump
b. Failing Pressure Cap (should be replaced every 2 years)
c. Failing and/or clogged Heat Exchanger
3. Incorrect coolant ratio, but this is usually not a major contributor but will contribute somewhat.
4. Incorrect V-Belt tensioning with the V-Belt turning the coolant water pump
5. Failing Coolant Thermostat (not opening completely)
6. Other engine issues"

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