Re: From 230V to 120V #alignment

Eric Freedman <kimberlite@...>

Hi Bertrand.
Just take your 16 amp female plug and add a piece of what we would call 12 gauge twisted wire to the plug, Basically get a wire cable that has wires equal to or bigger that what you currently have. You can usually get a black rubber coated 3 wire cable at an electrical supply or a good hardware store. Make sure it is stranded wire, it does not have to be marine tinned wire. You only need 3 feet. If the colors are not blue and brown in the piece of wire don’t worry you just need 3 colors one being green. Open your male plug and just match the colors in the male plug to the female plug if they are blue and brown, if they don't match don’t worry. Just make sure that you hook the new cable with the green wire to the same place on the female plug. I am not on the boat for a week but if I remember the green wire goes to the largest hole in the female plug and is connected to the biggest pin on the male plug of your boat.

The 50 amp plug is made for a much heavier gauge wire so it can carry 50 amps. Usually 6 or 8 gauge. That is why the holes are so large. Now that you have the female end open and connected , connect the other end of the wire to the 50 amp twist lock.
Don’t forget to put the cap on the wire before doing the wiring. The 50 amp plug usually has 4 screws . each color coded. To open the connector on some there are a few screws near the plug prongs themselves.
Connect the green to the green, and then one wire to the black, and the other wire to the red. There is no connection to the white connector. Your cable should only have 3 wires in it. If you can only find a 4 wire cable just cut the white one off at both ends.
Male sure the connections are tight. Leave a little slack in the wires under the cap so the cable and its rubber coating will be inside the cap. Put a very big cable tie on the cable to act as a strain relief. Once you have the connector assembled you will find that there is a big hole in the cap intended for a much bigger wire.
Just fill the hole generously with silicone sealant , don’t be shy with that.

Now to the circuit breaker issue. You have a 50 amp power supply with a 50 amp circuit breaker going through a thinner wire to a much smaller circuit breaker in the boat. There is a possibility that if there is a short in the cable
The 50 amp breaker will not trip and there could be a fire in the cable.

I think on some models Amel added a circuit breaker just inside the hull where the wire enters. If you have this then no worries.

As a temporary measure I would not worry about it.
My only issue is that you say your boat has a 16 amp plug on it.
I don't remember what mine is.
Please check the main circuit breaker on the electrical panel on my 53 it is on the side of the AC panel. 16 amps seems very small for the load that the boat could use.
It is possible that the previous owner changed out the larger European connector for a smaller one.
If that is the case, then just change out both connectors to the larger ones.

I just wish I were on board to see what connectors I used for Kimberlite.
I have an amp monitor that I built for Kimberlite (photo above) . I have never seen it go to more than 12 amps.
Fair Winds
Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

-----Original Message-----
From: On Behalf Of Bertrand Quénot
Sent: Friday, January 07, 2022 6:56 PM
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] From 230V to 120V #alignment

I have a second hand twist lock plug available. It comes from à US boat and has a shirt cord sealed. Don’t know for sure it is a 50A and wire sections are far bigger than on mine.
All the colours you mentioned are here.
My cord ends with a 16A male plug. I have a 16A female plug available. I also have available 32A male and female plugs.
What I don’t get is the reason why I would need a circuit breaker on the line if I create a jumper as there is a circuit breaker on board at the end of the shore cord.

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