Re: LED bulbs

spritoaffine <spritoaffine@...>

Hello All
Ref LEDs I've found to be excellent, good products, good prices, I've also used for rigid LED strips which have proved great for all sorts of areas, they're big in solar panels too
David Worthington
Sharki 148
Spirito Affine

--- In amelyachtowners@..., john martin <symoondog@...> wrote:

Hi Martin

In response to your inquiry about LED bulbs:

I have bought from 3 or 4 different companies and it has been a real learning experience. LED lights have vastly improved since I bought my first ones several years ago. The bulbs are much brighter and much less blue, and as they have evolved they are increasing the number of light cells within each bulb - the more little light cells the better. Don't buy them with any less than 9 little light cells. Also be sure to buy them for a 24V system.

For the dome lights below, I used the G4 LED bulb, a plug-in version that fits into the same socket as the G4 halogen bulbs. Many suppliers have these. The problem with our Amel overhead dome lights is that the halogen sockets are vertical and the G4 plugs are horizontal, and the domelight lens is flat, so you have to modify the dome light or modify the LED a little to get the new LED bulbs to fit/work. To modify the dome light, you can unscrew (2 screws) the socket in the dome light and then you twist it to be horizontal. The LED bulb will lie on the glass dome (with no support) but this works fine. Or to modify the LED bulb, you can also use small needle-nose pliers and bend/twist the 2 prongs of the G4 bulb to make them fit. Either way can work well. Because the domelight is flat there isn't any room for any type of LED iexcept a G4.

For the reading lights I got the LEDs from WWW.MASTLIGHT.COM. It's called a MR16GD21W spotlight. It has 2 prongs like the halogen bulb but wont fit immediately down into the fixture. I took a screwdriver and needle-nose pliers and twisted and pulled the shiny (conical like) reflector out of the fixture (but it is hard to get out). The LED bulbs will then fit in very nicely. The LED is 10 times cooler than the halogen but not quite as bright,but they are fine for reading. There is no way to get the LED in without removing the reflector.

I have a second dome light over the galley sink, with a red lens (for night sailing) but it has a white festoon bulb. This dome light has a concave lens (more room in it for a bulb). I got LED versions of the festoon bulb from WWW.LEDSHOPONLINE.COM in Austrailia.

For the interior wall-mounted cabin lights (the ones with the little lamp shades) and the dashboard dome light (which has a concave lens on our boat), they use a "bayonet double contact" bulb so you have to also buy a "bayonet double contact halogen lamp base" in addition to the LED bulb. It is confusing to buy a "halogen lamp base" but it is just an interface for the LED bulb into the lamp. We found Ancor brand of these lamp bases fairly easily at marine supply stores, or you can get them from WWW.SAILORSSOLUTIONS.COM. Once you have the lamp bases, you can use a G4 LED or a Sensibulb LED also sold by Sailors Solutions. The benefits of the Sensibulb LED is that it has a flexible wired mount you can face in any direction, and it will fit into any halogen base receptacle, but it cannot be used in the flat-lensed dome lights as there is insufficient room.

You will find that these lights burn very little amperage and will last a lifetime. The Austrailian company insists you put a diode in the 24 volt line to protect them from a surge over 30 amps, this only seems needed on a 24V system. I haven't had the surge problem but I put them in anyway. Sensibulb gave me 3 of them which I installed in each of the 3 cabin light systems.

The only new LED fixture I bought was a flexible goose-neck reading lamp, with a dimmer, from Sailors Solutions for about US$130. I removed the original Amel shaded lamp and installed the gooseneck at the aft port corner of the salon table. It is wonderful for reading in the salon and can be dimmed to provide nice "mood light" also.

Perhaps other Amel owners have other advice to offer?

Best regards,

John SY "Moon Dog" SM 248

To: amelyachtowners@...
From: yachtcaduceus@...
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2010 14:32:17 +0000
Subject: [Amel] Re: Deck Flood lights

Thanks for your reply. Can you give me any info as to what replacement bulbs you found satisfactory and the manufacture and source?
Martin Caduceus 54 #56

--- In amelyachtowners@..., john martin <symoondog@> wrote:

Martin, you have the right ideal. I replaced all the halogen bulbs in the cabin and had to retrofit some of them, much cheaper and faster then buying a complete new led fixture. I like your ideal of solar panels on the stern arch, but won't you get a shadow from the SSB antennae?. I have 2- 130 watt solars on the aft cabin and they are great. If I had 2 more I'd only use the generator to make hot water. If I put the arch on I'd eliminate the antenna and the SSB.With today's new technology with skype, cell phones, satellite phone, etc.,I belive their demise is certain. John "Moon Dog" SM248

To: amelyachtowners@...
From: yachtcaduceus@
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2010 13:34:38 +0000
Subject: [Amel] Deck Flood lights

Our Amel 54 is fitted with four deck floods, one in the cockpit, one for the foredeck and two on the main spreaders. They are all 28v 50w Halogen sealed beams.

We are in the process of fitting a stern arch to carry solar panels and the dinghy. Into this are being set two LED floods. These LED's are available in a variety of beam angles, and warmths, and are designed for the purpose. Similar floods are being fitted to the latest Oysters as spreader flood lights; we are having the work done at Fox's in Ipswich UK. They are is involved in fitting out Oyster yachts and I am assured that the LED floods are fit for purpose.

I am considering having some adapters made, modeled on the flange of the existing bulb that acts as the retainer in the housing that carries the bulb; machined out of some form of rigid nylon sheet, or similar. This adapter would then be used as a mount for the LED bulb without having to replace the existing housings. If successful the saving in power consumption would be considerable and make it much more practical to leave the lights on for more extended periods.

Rather than completely re-invent the wheel, does anyone have experience of this?


Martin Bevan
Amel 54 #56 - Caduceus

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