[Amel] Re: Autoprop Bearing Replacement


svbebe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Gary and Mike,

Yes there are some differences...Bruntons changed bearing types sometime around 2002.

When Mike posted his method of bearing removal, I emailed a photo of Mike's prop to a guy at Brutons and asked for his comments on Mike's method. BTW, I did not reveal the source of the photo. I did not receive any direct comments about Mike's method.

The return email stated, "Your (BeBe's) autoprop uses a different bearing system...the picture you attached shows the old style ball bearing system with open bearing. Your propeller uses a seal and taper roller bearing together with a thrust race, which are much easier to remove."

I am not sure that this addresses Gary's question and possibly brings up more questions.

Best,

Bill
s/v BeBe, SM2, #387
Currently Malasia

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Mike Ondra" <mdondra@...> wrote:

Gary,

Perhaps there are different configurations of the Autoprop. Ours has
bearings and bearing race exposed to sea water. The only seals we have to
deal with are those on the prop shaft. Picture of reassembled prop included
in Aletes photos folder.

Mike

Aletes SM#240

_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2010 8:23 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Re: Autoprop Bearing Replacement





Mike:

Thanks for the update on your findings. I am glad that your seals held up
better than mine and you had minimal damage. I believe that the early
failure of my bearings was due to power washing the prop upon haul out,
thus forcing water and debris past the lip seals that seal the bearing
cavity
and my waiting until I returned to the boat six months later (after
hurricane
season) and at that point lubing the prop bearings. The Autoprop literature
clearly states that the prop should be lubed just after haul out. In my
case I did not follow those instructions and that failure combined with
the power washing, I believe, caused my premature failures.

So I recommend to all members:

1. DO NOT LET ANYONE POWER WASH YOUR AUTOPROP.
2. DO LUBE THE BEARINGS IMMEDIATELY UPON HAUL OUT.

In my case I lube then upon haul out and again touch them up with
lube immediately before splashing the boat after it has been on the
hard.

On the water tight issue: The bearing race recess forms a water water
tight compartment with the lip seal that is pressed into the groove
in the blade. The bearings reside in this water proof cavity. With a
hole in the hub that penetrates from the hub center bolt retention
hole into the bearing race groove you have a path for water ingress
into the bearing/grease/cavity of the prop. Water will be slung by
centrifugal force from the prop hub retention bolt hole, through
the newly drilled holes and into the race groove/race/bearing/grease
cavity unless you seal those holes with something. As you correctly
point out, the hub center cavity is NOT sealed to sea water by the red cap.

All the best,

Gary
Amel SM #335
"Liahona"

--- In amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "Mike Ondra" <mdondra@> wrote:

" I do not recognize there being a "sealed cavity" in the prop as the
nose cone is not water tight."

Mike





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