toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Hi Pat, while you are on the winch job consider separating the electic motor and gearbox from the winch and replacing the lip seal between the motor and the oil filled gearbox. The seal failed on one of mine and the oil got into the motor which became irreparable. Incredibly there was an identical motor available from Lewmar in Auckland NZ, and this for a winch that was 20 years old. Now that is what I call incredible after sales service. My other winch wasn't leaking but I replaced the seal, a lot cheaper than a motor. I would recommend all owners with boats approaching 20 plus years old consider this preventative maintenance. After consulting the wisdom on this forum I found the task of removing the motor gearbox assembly simple and straightforward. For the one accessed from the port cockpit locker the biggest danger was dropping the very heavy unit on my face as I lay under it undoing the last bolt.
On 10/09/2022 08:24 Patrick McAneny via groups.io <sailw32@...> wrote:
Bill, Unfortunately I have the slotted heads, There is a plastic sheet separating the base . I am glad you guys all wrote to me ,I was thinking that the five screws down by the motor is what held the winch in place, and they simply passed thru the base. I will try the heating and cooling . But from experience, things that work for guys like you, usually don't work for me, but I will give it a go ! My fall back plan will be to drill the heads off ,rotate the winch slightly and tap the base.
Enjoy Barbados & Thanks,
From: Bill Kinney <cruisingconsulting@...>
Sent: Fri, Sep 9, 2022 3:41 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Removing winch
As Sher describes, the screws are either slotted OR hex head depending on when they were installed. I have always had very poor luck with a hammer driven impact wrench. When I first serviced these winches on our boat, some of the screws were very stuck. Alternately heating with a torch then quickly cooling helped break them free, and then a slow and steady torque applied with a PERFECTLY fitting screwdriver bit with a breaker bar got them out. You can try an electric or air driven impact wrench, but you lose a lot of "feel", and in my experience breaking a stuck bolt is more likely with them, as is just rounding out the hex hole in the screw head.
When torquing the screws, work both directions a tiny bit at a time to minimize the chances of breaking the screws, they are pretty big and robust, but it still happens.
In the original assembly from Lewmar, the aluminum baseplate was separated from the bronze center stem with a thin sheet of plastic. If this is missing or damaged, the galvanic corrosion that occurs makes this whole process a lot harder, and can cause serious damage. If the plastic piece is missing or not serviceable, you can either cut a new one, or use TefGel, Duralac, or lanolin to electrically isolate the parts. And, of course, ALWAYS use one of those anti-corrosion products on the stainless screws into aluminum parts!
For anyone who is interested, the centerstem is available as a spare from Lewmar, but the aluminum baseplate is not. Not a big deal, the baseplate could be easily fabricated locally if it is damaged.