Re: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K


BM2 <bluemarinemartin@...>
 

Bonjour ,

Thank you for this detailed information. My valves have never been changed.

Since I managed to re-open it, I will wait to be on the hard to do the job according to your operating procedure.

Yves

BM2
bluemarinemartin@...
2010-04-17
----- Message reçu -----
De : rossirossix4
À : amelyachtowners
Date : 2010-04-14, 17:40:02
Sujet : Re: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K


Hi Yves,

Usually, if the ball valve looks like it is glassed over, it has not yet been replaced. If you look closely you should see that the material overlapping the valve is a relatively thin amount of gel coat and paint. There is a through hull fitting (not a seacock?), then a short stand pipe and the ball valve screws onto the top of this. It is my impression (having replaced 3 different valves) that while the stand pipe is very securely glassed in the gel coat/paint will not prevent you from unscrewing the ball valve.

I don't think anyone will tell you to unscrew it in the water because it is always safer to do it on the hard (and do all of them at once, and do them preventatively while you are on the hard). However, I can say that I would do it if it was not convenient to haul out. I would however fit a plug in the outlet while conducting the operation or be ready to plug from the dingy in case Murphey's law comes into effect.

In an earlier posting someone talks about using what I will call a "string saw"--they sell them for cutting PVC pipe--to score the gel coat before rotating the valve out. I did this but didn't make that much progress and worried about wearing the threads on the stand pipe.

I used a pipe wrench with a long 16" handle (or put a pipe on the handle of a shorter pipe wrench) and it eased off using considerable rotational force.

On reassembly you can use many winds of teflon tape or something like Life-Calk Sealant on the threads of the stand pipe. Either one will help establish a leak proof seal and aid in removal next time you replace one.

I'm not on my boat right now but I thought the valve was bonded to the boats ground. If you use a Marelon plastic ball valve you would need to bond the stand pipe and I think this would be difficult to do because there is not a gap between the ball valve and the pipe once you screw it on. So that's it.

Excuse this digression. I've got to tell this related story! On my boat the raw water intake to the engine is set up the same way. I was with my mechanic (who had not had previous experience with Amels but had familiarized himself with mine). I complained that it looked like Amel had glassed in the ball valve and not considered problems with replacement. At that point he became quite serious and even a bit emotional saying something to the effect of "Look at this boat and the way everything is done! Do you REALLY think that they would do that? No...no...no" and he went on a bit brow beating me. He was right, the valve eased right off with a fair amount of torque from the long pipe wrench. Like many Amel owners, I don't often need to have professionals do work for me, but when they do they make comments like "Its good to see a boat where they did things right" or "That's a very well thought out idea". I've even had them bring over other boat owners to show them how something should have been done.

Bob
Brittany de la Mer 1993 Santorin #86

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "BM2"<bluemarinemartin@...> wrote:

Bonjour John,

The valve itself is definitely above the waterline and can be removed while the boat is in the water.
The problem I am facing is that it is difficult to remove / unscrew from the seacock, beeing sure not to dammage the seacock itself.

The valve is a 1-1/4 in brass. perhaps can it be replaced by a Makrolon one.

Yves

BM2
bluemarinemartin@...
2010-04-14
----- Message reçu -----
De : johnabo2003
À : amelyachtowners
Date : 2010-04-13, 15:46:35
Sujet : Re: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K


I would also like to replace the forward head holding tank drain pipe and service the seacock. Can the seacock and down pipe be safely removed whilst the boat is in the water. In other words is the thread for the seacock above the waterline?

Does anybody know the thread size and material of the seacock so that I can order a spare in advance of going to the boat?

John
SM 394

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "BM2"<bluemarinemartin@> wrote:

Bonjour John,

I will try to do it that way as soon as I can get a new valve, hoping that mine will come out as easily as yours...dismounting is very often far more difficult than installing a new gear.

Best wishes

Yves

BM2
bluemarinemartin@
2010-04-13
----- Message reçu -----
De : Anne and John Hollamby
À : amelyachtowners
Date : 2010-04-13, 10:33:55
Sujet : Re: Re: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K


Hello Yves,
I think I understand ! But you have to unscew the whole valve complete and replace it with a new one.
That is what I did a few years ago. It was pretty easy once I got the hose off. The central part of the valve is not removable so far as I know so the whole unit has to be sent to be recycled if you want to get full brownie points.

Best wishes, John, SM 319
----- Original Message -----
From: BM2
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 9:48 AM
Subject: Re: Re: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K



Bonjour Anne and John,

And thank you for your help.

I am not so strong but the shaft has very little material: OD 9 mm threaded, a hole inside of 3 mm. and a cut of 1.5 mm each side for the handle leaving only a maximum of 3 working mm of material where it broke.

I usually wash the tank, while closed, with fresh water and vinegar from the vent on deck...but it nevertheless happened to break !!

I understand how to remove the hose, but...

The problem I am facing is to remove (unscrew) the valve without breaking the seacock.

How can I seize the seacock to avoid distroying it while removing the valve itself ??
The seacock seems to be moulded in the plastic of the hull, without any thing beyond the moulding inside the boat in order to block it, , while unscewing the valve . A bit difficult to explain clearly with my limited English, but I hope you can grasp the point !!

Many Thanks and best wishes to both of you

Yves


BM2
bluemarinemartin@
2010-04-13
----- Message reçu -----
De : Anne and John Hollamby
À : amelyachtowners
Date : 2010-04-12, 10:13:14
Sujet : Re: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K

Dear Yves and Marie Christine,
The same valve seized up years ago on my boat and I had to replace it even though I was not so strong as to be able to break the shaft. To replace the valve remove the shelf and the plastic pipe from the holding tank. You will find that it is best to make a vertical slash in it where it is stuck onto the tank and the valve with a razor knife. You will then be able to remove the damaged valve and fit a new one using proper sanitary hose.
It was not my favourite job especially as one inevitably gets on intimate terms with the WC pan !
I suppose that whilst the tube is open you should feel the inside to see whether you should do a descaling job as described by S/V Bebe in the archives.

Best wishes from Anne and John

----- Original Message -----
From: BM2
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Sunday, April 11, 2010 10:30 PM
Subject: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K

Hello everybody,

I have a problem with the fore heads valve because I closed it for a very short time and when I wanted to reopen it, the handle shaft broke with the valve closed...although I operate it from time to time.

Fortunately, with a lot of efforts, I managed to open it with a Ezy-out left turn screw extractor.

Now I have to change it....without damaging the seacock., which does not seem to be easy !!

Although I cannot immagine I am the first one with this problem, I could not find a word about it on the forum, even with the search fuction, John,

Has anyone faced this problem?

All advices welcome

Regards

Yves

BM2
bluemarinemartin@
2009-12-11




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