Re: [Amel] Modifications


sy_baracca
 

Hello Richard,

We also will be crossing to the Caribbean this year, probably early December. When running our aquagen we normally get around 10-12amp/hr charge showing provided boat speed is above about 5.5 to 6 knots. Normally charging stops below about 3.5 knots. We normally sail in light winds with the prop freewheeling. Once the boat speed gets above 6 knots we engage the aquagen. It costs us about half knot of boat speed. Stopping the prop completely will cost up to 1 knot. Obviously once you reach the point of having to reef there is no penalty running the aquagen.

Maurice & Heather
SY Baracca
Santorin #41

--- In amelyachtowners@..., Ivan Campbell <i-campbell@...> wrote:

Thanks Richard

Very helpfull


Ivan Campbell
Ocean Hobo
Santorin 96



On 21 Aug 2010, at 02:33, "richard03801" <richard03801@...> wrote:

When we had the aquadrive on our Maramu at 5.5 kts boat speed
through the water we got 15 Amps on the meter. Be sure the belt is
not sliping and that there are good contacts at both the alternator
and the through the system. When we bench tested the alternator we
found that it would go to 25 amps at 1800 RPM I don't think you'll
get that but you should get 10-15 without issue.
Good luck enjoy the trip.
Richard on SM 209

--- In amelyachtowners@..., Ivan Campbell <i-
campbell@> wrote:

Hi
I note you use the aquadrive alternator. On my Satorin I am unable
to
measure any imput. What should the alternator produce. I
amcrossing to
the Carribean and only have this and engine for charging

Thanks

Ivan Campbell

Ocean Hobo


On 18 Aug 2010, at 15:41, "sy_baracca" <sy_baracca@> wrote:

I have been following this topic with some interest. A much
simpler
way to provide a stainless steel bearing surface is to ask your
bearing supplier for a 'speedisleeve'. This is a very thin sleeve
designed to slip onto any standard size shaft to provide a new
surface for the oil seal to run on. Because of the thinness of the
sleeve standard size oil seals are used. The sleeve is simply held
in place with a thin smear of locktight. Since fitting these to my
main drive we have completed 980hrs using the engine plus a fair
few
additional hours with the prop free wheeling driving the aqua
drive
alternator ( our boat is a Santorin) without any water ingress to
the oil. The beauty is that you can simply slip them over your
existing bronze bush without any modification. BTY because there
are
three seals on the main drive you will need two speedisleeves. I
haven't done it myself but I would assume a similar solution would
work for the bow thruster shaft. Your seal supplier should be able
to replace that standard seal springs with stainless ones, usually
at no extra charge. Hope this is of interest.

Maurice & Heather
SY Baracca
Santorin #41
--- In amelyachtowners@..., Ian Shepherd
<sv_freespirit@> wrote:

Hi Malcolm,

I am afraid that I have no note of the dimensions, but
obviously it
should be as thin as practicable for the machinist else you run
the risk
of weakening the shaft. At a guess I would say that my sleeve
was
about
15-20 thousands of an inch. Incidentally I was talking to a
marine
engineer in Leros who is familiar with Amels. He said that all
of
the
boats he has worked on did not have a stainless steel spring on
the bow
thruster lip seal. Another step for improvement perhaps?

Thanks for the tip on the motor ball race. I will take a look
and
spray
some anti corrosive oil around the area.

Best Wishes

Ian Shepherd SM 414 Crusader

On 28/07/2010 08:58, Malcolm Phillips wrote:

Hi Ian,



Very interested in you mods to Bowthruster gearbox. Despite
changing
all my bearings and seals the water still gets in and I think
that the
stainless steel sleeve on the prop drive shaft is the answer.



I would therefore be grateful if you could e-mail the exact
o/d of
your sleeve to suit the seal i/d if you have a note of this
size.



Maybe then I can stop waking up everyone in the Marina every
time I
leave !



Regards,



Malcolm S/M 464 Bon Jovi.



From: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of Ian
Shepherd
Sent: 27 July 2010 16:39
To: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Modifications





Hi Richard,

I am not sure if I mentioned that the stainless prop shaft
bush
has been
in use for over three years with no signs of any adverse
effect.

Regards

Ian SM 414 Crusader

On 02/07/2010 14:13, Richard03801 wrote:

Thanks for the info. One question how much clearance did you
plan
between the shaft and bushings? Metal to metal ss to ss
normally does
not work well. If they touch they will Gaul as the bronze is
used as a
bearing surface. It may be that the bearing pack is stiff
enough to
hold the shaft from moving/touching. I guess time will tell.
Regards
Sent by Richard Piller

On Jul 1, 2010, at 5:55 PM, Ian Shepherd <sv_freespirit@
<mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk> <mailto:sv_freespirit
%40yahoo.co.uk>
<mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk>> wrote:

I read recently that owners modifications can be
detrimental
to the
original concept. Maybe so, but here are three
modifications
that have
definitely improved my boat.

Three and a half years ago I replaced the bronze main
engine
prop
shaft
bush with one made of high grade stainless steel. I
recently
hauled for
the first time since fitting it and there was absolutely
no
wear
whatsoever on the bush. Just a very slight polishing of
the
surface
where the lip seals mate to the bush. There was no
noticeable wear to
the seals either after 600 hours of motoring, but I
changed
them
anyway.
This contrasts markedly to the normal wear experienced on
the standard
bush. I believe that the maintenance interval is now much
longer with
the stainless bush, and there is a worthwhile long term
cost
saving too.

I replaced the 70M of chain supplied by Amel with 90M.
There
was a
noticeable improvement in the boats motion particularly in
short seas.
The boat pitches less, hardly ever slams any more and
because of this
maintains a higher average speed. I also have 10M of chain
and 100M of
rope for my second anchor stored in the forward locker
together
with my
two Fortress anchors, so in reality, I have the equivalent
of 100M of
10mm chain in bow. The extra weight forward certainly
seems
to be for
the better.

I decided to try and improve the lubrication of the bow
thruster,
which
seems to have more sea water inside it than oil most of
the
time. The
arrangement of a single lip seal over a rough fibre
shaft is
hardly
conducive to keeping the sea water out. I removed the
shaft
and had it
machined down to accept a thin stainless sleeve for the
lip
seal
to run
on. I then replaced the three open ball race bearings,
which
were all
rusty, with sealed bearings running in their own grease.
Of
course
this
prevents you pouring the oil in via the top of the tube,
so I
decided to
not use oil to lubricate the bevel gears, but instead use
water
repellent grease.

This was packed into the gearbox housing before the back
plate was
refitted, leaving a small gap to allow for expansion, and
grease was
also placed between the outside of the outer bearing and
the
lip seal.
This was done about four months ago, and the bow thruster
has never
sounded sweeter. Gone is the awful sound of bearings
running
is a sea
water emulsion, and there does not seem to be any loss in
power
either.
Time will tell, and I shall remove the bow thruster this
winter to see
if the modifications have had any adverse effects on the
gears, but it
is my guess that the life of the seal, bearings and bevel
gears
will be
considerably increased.

As they say, cruising is fixing things on water. Anything
that reduces
wear and subsequent failure must be for the better.

Ian Shepherd SM 414 Crusader
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