Re: [Amel] Re: Freshwater pressure pump, SM319


Barry Ferguson <seagasm@...>
 

The pump is self priming, we have also done ours recently, works like a
charm. just make sure the pressure setting is not too high. Typically from
previously having rainwater tank systems on the land, the valve pressure
diaphragm needs to be kept an eye on since it does clog up after some time.

Best Regards
Barry & Robyn
Tradewinds III SM 171


On Thu, Nov 11, 2010 at 1:02 PM, Richard Piller <richard03801@...>wrote:



We replaced our fresh water pump with an on demand pump and did away with
the
tank altogether. It has worked well for years now. We also installed a
carbon
filter before the pump so we are sure that when we flush the water maker we
have
good water without chemicals. This makes the whole system easier to deal
with
and takes up less space.
Good luck
Richard SM 209 For Sale at Rogue Wave in Annapolis

________________________________
From: johnabo2003 <no_reply@... <no_reply%40yahoogroups.com>>
To: amelyachtowners@... <amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wed, November 10, 2010 9:15:53 AM
Subject: [Amel] Re: Freshwater pressure pump, SM319

I have just serviced my AMFA fresh water pump and am now ready to install.
Does
anybody know if the pump is self priming?

John
SM 391

--- In amelyachtowners@... <amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>,
"John and Anne on Bali Hai"
<annejohn@...> wrote:

My pump, which is an AMFA 66I4555, Prot.IP44 has been getting
noisier in recent years. I had spares for the impellor, two brass
bits, one like a turbine and a matching face plate plus new ceramic
water seals. The latter turned out to be the wrong size but in fact
it was the impellor that was worn.
To replace, get the parts from Amel by Airmail or normal post in EU.
Turn off the power to the hot water heater and also the pump contact
breaker and run off the water at a tap. Tie a piece of line round the
big plastic vent pipe above the pump and leave the end hanging down.
Undo the connectors to the pump with a spanner and tie the left hand
one up high to stop water pouring back out of the hot tank
The pump is held to the floor of the engine room by four screws. If
they are hard to turn hit the top of the screwdiver with a hammer to
free them. Do not attempt to undo the four nuts on the vibration
mounting as they are on threaded rods forming part of the rubber
mounting. Lie the pump on its side and remove the cover to the wiring
to the pump pressure switch. Take a digital pic of the connections in
case you might forget which goes where before removing the three
wires so that you can get the pump on deck. You will also have to
release the grounding wire.
The next step is to undo three nuts holding the pump housing to the
motor and then remove the housing whilst the motor shaft is pointing
upwards. The housing holds one of the bits to be replaced, it is held
in place by two machine screws.Fit the new part (I had to file one of
the holes in the new part to get the second screw in place).
Carefully remove the circlip holding the impellor with a small
screwdriver and remove the old impellor taking care not to lose the
key. If you are replacing the seal as well, remove the second circlip
as well to remove the seal.In the event the new seal that I had was
the wrong size so I reused the old one with no problems.
Replace the circlip holding the seal by pushing it down the shaft
using all three of your hands so that it goes over the groove for the
top circlip crookedly to get it down the shaft to the second groove
against the spring on the seal which wants to send the circlip into
orbit.
Fit the new impellor with the raised flange facing OUTWARDS making
sure that the key is held properly in place using some needlenose
pliers so that the impellor slides on easily and replace the
circlip.
Reassemble and away you go...I hope.

Best wishes, Anne and John SM319
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--
Email: seagasm@...
Off Shore E-mail: vhn3361@... (text only)
Phone: Australia (0407) 65-2046
HF Call Sign: VHN3361
SV Tradewinds III, SM#171


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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