ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
Dear Stephan, What a useful note. I was hoping to change the belt myself until I found out the price of the belt tension guage ( somewhere in the region of $6-800).Interestingly, my prophet on the mountain in La R. , M. Selo, has recently emailed me that 2,000 hours before a change was OK, whilst cautioning that an amateur attempt to change should not be undertaken lightly.I have noticed a few Volvo trucks on(and off)the road in Ecuador so I am now hunting down a knowledgeable Jose to lend me his tools and ride shotgun on my very cautious first change Marine Express Parts recomend 1000 hours, which I think is in the latest handbook. They also say that in their experience unless there is something wrong with the fuel pump they would not check it when changing the cam belt. Ian From: "Stephan Regulinski" <stephreg@yahoo.com> Reply-To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvo Turbos Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 17:53:01 -0000
Ian, Joel, Jay, etc.,
My copy of the Instruction Book ("Instruction Book 22 Series", Volvo- Penta, 1998) page 28 says that the timing gear belt (also called the cam belt) should be inspected every 200 hours and replaced every 2000 hours. This is twice the interval recommended by Joel.
I have just replaced my belt at 2000 hours and found no excessive wear. I would like to know more about Jay's experience, particularly the maintenance findings on the last belt inspection prior to failure. It would be nice to know whether the 200 hour inspection is capable of picking up premature belt wear in time to replace the belt. I am not surprised that he has to adopt a more rigorous maintenance program (he reports belt failure at just over 1000 hours) given he is operating under more extreme conditions. The question is whether this program is necessary for the rest of us. A timing belt change is neither cheap or fast.
For those interested in doing this job yourself, you will need a new belt ($40 in Gibraltar), a workshop manual or copy of the relevant pages, a belt tension guage, two locator pins and two locator bolts. I was able to borrow all of the above from a cooperative Volvo shop. The were made more cooperative by the fact that I had just spent a large sum of money repairing the rigging and we were arguing about the bill. I agreed to pay the bill in full and the shop manager agreed to loan me the manual, the tools, and a chat with his Volvo mechanic. Now we both think that the other is a perfect gentleman.
The job took me five hours and would take an experienced mechanic half that (assuming an Amel were engine access is good). Here are a few hints:
(1) Have handy: a full set of sockets including two wrenches, a 31/32 socket, a strap wrench to hold the water-pump pulley while loosening and tightening screws, and a crow bar or equivalent to help tighten alternator belts. An assistant wouldn't hurt to hand tools and read the manual.
(2) After removing the alternator belts and the water-pump pulley, the timing-belt cover can be removed with gentle twisting.
(3) The maintenance manual calls for removing the starter motor and inserting an anti-rotation tool. My mechanic advised me that this was not necessary. I did not find it necessary.
(4) Fitting the timing pins into the camshaft and into the flywheel is a little tricky. Use a socket wrench with 31/32 socket to turn the drive shaft, and listen for a little "click" on the pin in the camshaft hole. It took me six or seven revolutions to convince myself I had found it. Then kneel beside the engine (next to the genset) and hold the pin in the flywheel hole. Wiggle the drive shaft and see if the flywheel pin sets. It will do so firmly and fully. If not, rotate the drive shaft one half turn (the camshaft will turn one full turn) and the pin should set. Beware of setting the flywheel pin in a place where the camshaft pin is not set. I think there is a second hole, but couldn't swear to it.
(5) Set the two bolts in the pulley of the fuel injection pump. All is well if the "B" on this pulley lines up with the notch in the housing.
(6) The manual says to remove the belt tensioner pulley and the idler pulley. I did and found that I had to put them back before I could get the new belt on. My mechanic later said that he doesn't remove them at all. However, check the bearing on the idler pulley. I am told that it can seize and that early evidence is a failure to turn smoothly.
(7) Replace the belt. Cut the old belt in two so that it cannot be reused and dispose.
(8) When tensioning the belt. My mechanic suggested rotating the tensioner pulley (actually it is a cam) counter-clockwise to tension so that the belt, which rotates clockwise, pulls the pulley into itself thereby increasing tension.
(9) My mechanic advised that he did not adjusted the timing of the fuel pump as part of a belt replacement, despite this being a step in the maintenance procedure. I did not attempt this operation.
(9) Follow the manual in all other circumstances.
(10) Finally, before starting the engine, remember that prayer is an important part of any good maintenance program.
Stephan G. Regulinski Delos (SMM #303)
--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Joel F. Potter" <jfpottercys@a...> wrote:
Hello Ian,
Joel Potter here. The turbo boost pop-off valve really needs A LOT of
requested power to function. To check:
1. Go about 3-4 KTS in reverse 2. Gently go to neutral, then forward to idle speed. 3. Wait 3 seconds then wide open throttle in forward. WIDE OPEN.
You will see the rod move ever so briefly. The engine is governed and you
will never get into the boost limit in cruise power conditions. Only when
asking for more than you should, like at avoiding a crash. Hope this helps.
All the best, Joel F. Potter, Hull #400
P.S. Change your cam belt every 1000 hours. Trust me, this is important.
-----Original Message----- From: Ian & Judy Jenkins [mailto:ianjudyjenkins@h...] Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2003 1:36 PM To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Volvo Turbos
I have SM 302 with the Volvo/Perkins TMD22p. No complaints after 800
hours, other than replacing the key switch and the engine hour meter and rev
counter, both at crazy Volvo prices.Power output is fine and I take care
to open up the revs every few hours to ensure the Turbo is properly exercised. When the revs are high and the turbo is really being used there is a
pressure control valve that opens up if the turbo pressure gets too
high.As I understand it the rod attached to this valve moves back against the
resistance of a spring.I have been advised to move this rod back manually
from time to time ( with engine switched off) to ensure that it is free
moving and it has always been free when I have moved it. However, when I use full revs there is no discernible movement on this rod
( possibly 1/2 mm but it's difficult to guage when the engine is flat
out).It has been suggested to me that as Amel govern the output to 60hp the turbo
pressure doesnt reach the point where the valve opens.( this wouldn't
prevent the turbo from working ok as mine seems to be) Has anyone any experience to suggest that the rod should or should not be
seen to move at full revs, and if it does move is this a momentary and
occasional movement or should the the valve be seen to stay open above
certain revs? Ian Jenkins
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