Dear Stephan, What a useful note. I was hoping to change the belt myself until I found out the price of the belt tension guage ( somewhere in the region of $6-800).Interestingly, my prophet on the mountain in La R. , M. Selo, has recently emailed me that 2,000 hours before a change was OK, whilst cautioning that an amateur attempt to change should not be undertaken lightly.I have noticed a few Volvo trucks on(and off)the road in Ecuador so I am now hunting down a knowledgeable Jose to lend me his tools and ride shotgun on my very cautious first change
Marine Express Parts recomend 1000 hours, which I think is in the latest handbook. They also say that in their experience unless there is something wrong with the fuel pump they would not check it when changing the cam belt. Ian
From: "Stephan Regulinski" <firstname.lastname@example.org>
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvo Turbos
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 17:53:01 -0000
Ian, Joel, Jay, etc.,
My copy of the Instruction Book ("Instruction Book 22 Series", Volvo-
Penta, 1998) page 28 says that the timing gear belt (also called the
cam belt) should be inspected every 200 hours and replaced every 2000
hours. This is twice the interval recommended by Joel.
I have just replaced my belt at 2000 hours and found no excessive
wear. I would like to know more about Jay's experience, particularly
the maintenance findings on the last belt inspection prior to
failure. It would be nice to know whether the 200 hour inspection is
capable of picking up premature belt wear in time to replace the
belt. I am not surprised that he has to adopt a more rigorous
maintenance program (he reports belt failure at just over 1000 hours)
given he is operating under more extreme conditions. The question is
whether this program is necessary for the rest of us. A timing belt
change is neither cheap or fast.
For those interested in doing this job yourself, you will need a new
belt ($40 in Gibraltar), a workshop manual or copy of the relevant
pages, a belt tension guage, two locator pins and two locator bolts.
I was able to borrow all of the above from a cooperative Volvo shop.
The were made more cooperative by the fact that I had just spent a
large sum of money repairing the rigging and we were arguing about
the bill. I agreed to pay the bill in full and the shop manager
agreed to loan me the manual, the tools, and a chat with his Volvo
mechanic. Now we both think that the other is a perfect gentleman.
The job took me five hours and would take an experienced mechanic
half that (assuming an Amel were engine access is good). Here are a
(1) Have handy: a full set of sockets including two wrenches, a
31/32 socket, a strap wrench to hold the water-pump pulley while
loosening and tightening screws, and a crow bar or equivalent to help
tighten alternator belts. An assistant wouldn't hurt to hand tools
and read the manual.
(2) After removing the alternator belts and the water-pump pulley,
the timing-belt cover can be removed with gentle twisting.
(3) The maintenance manual calls for removing the starter motor and
inserting an anti-rotation tool. My mechanic advised me that this
was not necessary. I did not find it necessary.
(4) Fitting the timing pins into the camshaft and into the flywheel
is a little tricky. Use a socket wrench with 31/32 socket to turn
the drive shaft, and listen for a little "click" on the pin in the
camshaft hole. It took me six or seven revolutions to convince
myself I had found it. Then kneel beside the engine (next to the
genset) and hold the pin in the flywheel hole. Wiggle the drive
shaft and see if the flywheel pin sets. It will do so firmly and
fully. If not, rotate the drive shaft one half turn (the camshaft
will turn one full turn) and the pin should set. Beware of setting
the flywheel pin in a place where the camshaft pin is not set. I
think there is a second hole, but couldn't swear to it.
(5) Set the two bolts in the pulley of the fuel injection pump. All
is well if the "B" on this pulley lines up with the notch in the
(6) The manual says to remove the belt tensioner pulley and the
idler pulley. I did and found that I had to put them back before I
could get the new belt on. My mechanic later said that he doesn't
remove them at all. However, check the bearing on the idler pulley.
I am told that it can seize and that early evidence is a failure to
(7) Replace the belt. Cut the old belt in two so that it cannot be
reused and dispose.
(8) When tensioning the belt. My mechanic suggested rotating the
tensioner pulley (actually it is a cam) counter-clockwise to tension
so that the belt, which rotates clockwise, pulls the pulley into
itself thereby increasing tension.
(9) My mechanic advised that he did not adjusted the timing of the
fuel pump as part of a belt replacement, despite this being a step in
the maintenance procedure. I did not attempt this operation.
(9) Follow the manual in all other circumstances.
(10) Finally, before starting the engine, remember that prayer is an
important part of any good maintenance program.
Stephan G. Regulinski
Delos (SMM #303)
--- In email@example.com, "Joel F. Potter"
Joel Potter here. The turbo boost pop-off valve really needs A LOT
requested power to function. To check:OPEN.
1. Go about 3-4 KTS in reverse
2. Gently go to neutral, then forward to idle speed.
3. Wait 3 seconds then wide open throttle in forward. WIDE
You will see the rod move ever so briefly. The engine is governed
will never get into the boost limit in cruise power conditions.Only when
asking for more than you should, like at avoiding a crash. Hopethis helps.
All the best,
Joel F. Potter, Hull #400
P.S. Change your cam belt every 1000 hours. Trust me, this is
From: Ian & Judy Jenkins [mailto:ianjudyjenkins@h...]
Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2003 1:36 PM
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Volvo Turbos
I have SM 302 with the Volvo/Perkins TMD22p. No complaints after
other than replacing the key switch and the engine hour meter and
counter, both at crazy Volvo prices.Power output is fine and Itake care
open up the revs every few hours to ensure the Turbo is properly
When the revs are high and the turbo is really being used there
pressure control valve that opens up if the turbo pressure getstoo
I understand it the rod attached to this valve moves back against
resistance of a spring.I have been advised to move this rod backmanually
from time to time ( with engine switched off) to ensure that itis free
moving and it has always been free when I have moved it.this rod
However, when I use full revs there is no discernible movement on
possibly 1/2 mm but it's difficult to guage when the engine is
has been suggested to me that as Amel govern the output to 60hp
pressure doesnt reach the point where the valve opens.( thiswouldn't
prevent the turbo from working ok as mine seems to be)should not be
Has anyone any experience to suggest that the rod should or
seen to move at full revs, and if it does move is this amomentary and
occasional movement or should the the valve be seen to stay openabove
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