[Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvo Turbos
Stephan Regulinski
Ian and Judy,
Good grief! I didn't realize that the belt change tool kit was so expensive! You may try ofering to "rent" the tools from your local Volvo mechanic. This could work for both of you. Good luck on your first change. By the way, as to the question of 1000 versus 2000 hours, this is usually settled on two pieces of data. First is the point at which a significant number of failures begin to occur. When the engine is first developed, it is estimated based on prior experience with similar engines plus engineering "judgement". In time, this estimate is updated using data from the actual engine. "Significant" in this case is a function of the cost of repairing in the event of running to failure as compared to the cost of replacing the belt prior to failure. Since the engine overhaul is likely to cost on the order of ten times the cost of a belt change, a "signifcant" number of failures would be anything greater than ten percent of the belts failing between 1000 and 2000 hours under normal use. The second piece of data is the effectiveness of inspection. If inspections were perfectly effective in identifying belts that will fail before the next inspection, than you would have no "hard time" limit on the belt. Instead, you would inspect on the interval and replace only when the belt failed inspection. With things that slowly wear out and then catostrophically fail, we mix the two ideas and inspect through the part of the life where failure is unlikely and then as the probability of failure increases, we replace the part and start over. Stainless steel is a good example of substance that does not yield to visual inspection. It is hard to observe minute cracks in stainless and it fails quickly after the formation of small cracks. Belts, however, seem to be of the other sort. Evidence of belt wear is easy to observe and failure happens well after the first signs of belt degradation. I am inclined to believe that the original maintenance program is correct. But remember it has two parts: Inspection and replacement. Inspecting the belt requires that the inspection port is opened and the belt is rotated through its entire circumference. You are looking for "teeth wear and damage" and "cracks in the belt and oil contamination" (from the maintenance manual). Oil degrades the belt material and causes the fibers in the belt to begin to pull apart. Jay, who wrote in earlier (759 and 762) may shed some light on the question of whether belt inspections are useful if he can tell us what was observed when his belts were inspected prior to their failure. Stephan G. Regulinski --- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Ian & Judy Jenkins" <ianjudyjenkins@h...> wrote: Dear Stephan, What a useful note. I was hoping to change the beltmyself until I found out the price of the belt tension guage ( somewherein the region of $6-800).Interestingly, my prophet on the mountain in LaR. , M. Selo, has recently emailed me that 2,000 hours before a change wasOK, whilst cautioning that an amateur attempt to change should not beundertaken lightly.I have noticed a few Volvo trucks on(and off)the road inEcuador so I am now hunting down a knowledgeable Jose to lend me his tools andride shotgun on my very cautious first changethe latest handbook. They also say that in their experience unless there issomething wrong with the fuel pump they would not check it when changing thecam belt. IanVolvo-From: "Stephan Regulinski" <stephreg@y...> thePenta, 1998) page 28 says that the timing gear belt (also called 2000cam belt) should be inspected every 200 hours and replaced every particularlyhours. This is twice the interval recommended by Joel. isthe maintenance findings on the last belt inspection prior to hours)capable of picking up premature belt wear in time to replace the isgiven he is operating under more extreme conditions. The question beltwhether this program is necessary for the rest of us. A timing newchange is neither cheap or fast. bolts.belt ($40 in Gibraltar), a workshop manual or copy of the relevant shop.I was able to borrow all of the above from a cooperative Volvo aThe were made more cooperative by the fact that I had just spent a helpfew hints: andtighten alternator belts. An assistant wouldn't hurt to hand tools flywheelinserting an anti-rotation tool. My mechanic advised me that this Allis a little tricky. Use a socket wrench with 31/32 socket to turn pulley.is well if the "B" on this pulley lines up with the notch in the beI am told that it can seize and that early evidence is a failure to tensionreused and dispose. inso that the belt, which rotates clockwise, pulls the pulley into anthe maintenance procedure. I did not attempt this operation. LOTimportant part of any good maintenance program. governedofrequested power to function. To check:OPEN. afterand youwill never get into the boost limit in cruise power conditions.Only whenasking for more than you should, like at avoiding a crash. Hopethis helps.important. and800hours, properlyrevcounter, both at crazy Volvo prices.Power output is fine and Itake careto thereexercised. getsis apressure control valve that opens up if the turbo pressure againsttoohigh.As backtheresistance of a spring.I have been advised to move this rod itmanuallyfrom time to time ( with engine switched off) to ensure that movement onis freemoving and it has always been free when I have moved it. 60hpthis rod(flat openthe turbopressure doesnt reach the point where the valve opens.( thiswouldn'tprevent the turbo from working ok as mine seems to be)should not be _________________________________________________________________abovecertain revs? http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/Stay in touch with absent friends - get MSN MessengerService. http://www.msn.co.uk/msnmobile_________________________________________________________________
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