Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvo Turbos


Jay Jones <selector6501@...>
 

Stephan, Ian et al
In my expierience we noticed some lateral cracking in
the surface rubber but nothing penetrating to the
fabric plies. In failure the belts simply disintegrate
and you are left with some string, a coating of rubber
dust and a bad smell.
Due to design deficiencies (underestimated need for
power) we were running these engines at wide open
throttle locked against the govenors for weeks at a
time in conditions that could only be labeled extreme
35C to -40C extremely dusty. The gensets were
contracted and the contractor ran a rigorous
maintenance programm including weekly inspections by
factory trained mechanics. We did not expect these
failures nor were they anticipated by the contractor.
I have no complaints about these motors though. As you
can see from the above description we had
unintentionally fallen into a torture test not
imagined by the contrator, manufacturer or ourselves.
After repairs and in 1 case replacement these motors
continue to serve but now in thier intended backup
capacity.
I do not feel that any amount of inspection short of
that by someone with massive amounts of equipment and
expierience would detect a failure in progress. This
is why I reccomend rigorously adhereing to the
manufacturers schedule of maintenance (they have the
time and equipment to do the testing/failure analasys)
By the way volkswagon diesels have exhibited the exact
same failure only with less damage (7 of 8 valves
bent) possibly Herr Diesel smiling on us. I believe
this to be a sudden onset failure which wont be caught
by routine inspections unless you get lucky.
On to injector pumps. These pumps are extremly
sensitive and should not be worked on outside of a
pump shop. The tolerences in these devices are in
millionths of an inch and they require special
handling. Pump Timing: in a diesel engine the pump is
timed the way a distributor is in a gasoline engine.
In some cases the Cam belt also runs the pump. in
order to ensure correct pump timing there will be a
procedure outlined in the maintenace manual to
reestablish this timing. Other than correctly setting
the timing when you reinstall the belt there is no
maintenace that can be performed on a pump on the
boat. Incorect timing in a diesel normal results in an
engine that simply will not run, however if you get
the timing off by 180 degrees some diesels will
happily run backwards. Detroit deisels are famous for
this among other things (runaways, wet stacks,
excessive blow by, rack adjustments etc) and Detroit
uses this technique (along with some rotationally
specific parts) to make left and right hand engines
for dual marine mountings.
Stephan
I believe from your decription that when you "lined up
the B on the fuel pump with the notch on the cover"
after installing the the timing pins you set the pump
timing. The operation is usually accomplished in such
a manner. On the larger engines the timing is done
with gears and you simply line up witness marks on the
gears (one reason Detroits are famous is that many of
them had both sets of marks on the gears, left and
right hand rotation, so if you were in a hurry of
course murphy stepped right in and you had a truck
with 16 reverse speeds and 4 forward, entertaining but
not very useful).
In summary I would religously follow all engine
manufacturers guidelines on belt replacement and other
services to include the procedures in the service
manual. I would also check for service bulletins from
time to time as they will contain the newest guidance
derived from continued testing and failure analisys.


Jay
--- Ian & Judy Jenkins <ianjudyjenkins@...>
wrote:
Dear Stephan, What a useful note. I was hoping to
change the belt myself
until I found out the price of the belt tension
guage ( somewhere in the
region of $6-800).Interestingly, my prophet on the
mountain in La R. , M.
Selo, has recently emailed me that 2,000 hours
before a change was OK,
whilst cautioning that an amateur attempt to change
should not be undertaken
lightly.I have noticed a few Volvo trucks on(and
off)the road in Ecuador so
I am now hunting down a knowledgeable Jose to lend
me his tools and ride
shotgun on my very cautious first change
Marine Express Parts recomend 1000 hours, which I
think is in the latest
handbook. They also say that in their experience
unless there is something
wrong with the fuel pump they would not check it
when changing the cam belt.
Ian

From: "Stephan Regulinski" <stephreg@...>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@...
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvo Turbos
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 17:53:01 -0000

Ian, Joel, Jay, etc.,

My copy of the Instruction Book ("Instruction Book
22 Series", Volvo-
Penta, 1998) page 28 says that the timing gear belt
(also called the
cam belt) should be inspected every 200 hours and
replaced every 2000
hours. This is twice the interval recommended by
Joel.

I have just replaced my belt at 2000 hours and
found no excessive
wear. I would like to know more about Jay's
experience, particularly
the maintenance findings on the last belt
inspection prior to
failure. It would be nice to know whether the 200
hour inspection is
capable of picking up premature belt wear in time
to replace the
belt. I am not surprised that he has to adopt a
more rigorous
maintenance program (he reports belt failure at
just over 1000 hours)
given he is operating under more extreme
conditions. The question is
whether this program is necessary for the rest of
us. A timing belt
change is neither cheap or fast.

For those interested in doing this job yourself,
you will need a new
belt ($40 in Gibraltar), a workshop manual or copy
of the relevant
pages, a belt tension guage, two locator pins and
two locator bolts.
I was able to borrow all of the above from a
cooperative Volvo shop.
The were made more cooperative by the fact that I
had just spent a
large sum of money repairing the rigging and we
were arguing about
the bill. I agreed to pay the bill in full and the
shop manager
agreed to loan me the manual, the tools, and a chat
with his Volvo
mechanic. Now we both think that the other is a
perfect gentleman.

The job took me five hours and would take an
experienced mechanic
half that (assuming an Amel were engine access is
good). Here are a
few hints:

(1) Have handy: a full set of sockets including
two wrenches, a
31/32 socket, a strap wrench to hold the water-pump
pulley while
loosening and tightening screws, and a crow bar or
equivalent to help
tighten alternator belts. An assistant wouldn't
hurt to hand tools
and read the manual.

(2) After removing the alternator belts and the
water-pump pulley,
the timing-belt cover can be removed with gentle
twisting.

(3) The maintenance manual calls for removing the
starter motor and
inserting an anti-rotation tool. My mechanic
advised me that this
was not necessary. I did not find it necessary.

(4) Fitting the timing pins into the camshaft and
into the flywheel
is a little tricky. Use a socket wrench with 31/32
socket to turn
the drive shaft, and listen for a little "click" on
the pin in the
camshaft hole. It took me six or seven revolutions
to convince
myself I had found it. Then kneel beside the
engine (next to the
genset) and hold the pin in the flywheel hole.
Wiggle the drive
shaft and see if the flywheel pin sets. It will do
so firmly and
fully. If not, rotate the drive shaft one half
turn (the camshaft
will turn one full turn) and the pin should set.
Beware of setting
the flywheel pin in a place where the camshaft pin
is not set. I
think there is a second hole, but couldn't swear to
it.

(5) Set the two bolts in the pulley of the fuel
injection pump. All
is well if the "B" on this pulley lines up with the
notch in the
housing.

(6) The manual says to remove the belt tensioner
pulley and the
idler pulley. I did and found that I had to put
them back before I
could get the new belt on. My mechanic later said
that he doesn't
remove them at all. However, check the bearing on
the idler pulley.
I am told that it can seize and that early evidence
is a failure to
turn smoothly.

(7) Replace the belt. Cut the old belt in two so
that it cannot be
reused and dispose.

(8) When tensioning the belt. My mechanic
suggested rotating the
tensioner pulley (actually it is a cam)
counter-clockwise to tension
so that the belt, which rotates clockwise, pulls
the pulley into
itself thereby increasing tension.

(9) My mechanic advised that he did not adjusted
the timing of the
fuel pump as part of a belt replacement, despite
this being a step in
the maintenance procedure. I did not attempt this
operation.

(9) Follow the manual in all other circumstances.

(10) Finally, before starting the engine, remember
that prayer is an
important part of any good maintenance program.

Stephan G. Regulinski
Delos (SMM #303)


--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Joel F.
Potter"
<jfpottercys@a...> wrote:
Hello Ian,

Joel Potter here. The turbo boost pop-off valve
really needs A LOT
of
requested power to function. To check:

1. Go about 3-4 KTS in reverse
2. Gently go to neutral, then forward to
idle speed.
3. Wait 3 seconds then wide open throttle
in forward. WIDE
OPEN.

You will see the rod move ever so briefly. The
engine is governed
and you
will never get into the boost limit in cruise
power conditions.
Only when
asking for more than you should, like at
avoiding a crash. Hope
=== message truncated ===


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