If you use grade 10 Black cap screws instead of the s/s bolts provided the
autoprop puller works every time without any hammering.
Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Saturday, June 25, 2011 5:47 AM
Subject: [Amel] Re: Amel Drive Seals leaking
Thanks Chris for that information. Very valuable. The first time I tried to
remove my prop I stretched out two sets of screws and the thing would not
budge (1 year old boat and the autoprop was recalled by the factory). No
amount of hammering on the puller bolt worked but gently tapping "around"
the hub of the prop where it fit on the shaft resulted in an immediate
"snap" as the prop released. The key is to put tension on the prop with the
puller then tap circumferentially around the prop hub (radially if you
All the best,
Amel SM # 335
--- In amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , Chris Smither
with interest. Just to add a little to the correspondence, on our Santorin,
the seals failed shortly after we set out from the Caribbean for the Med.
reservoir was almost pure white. On stripping down and checking there was no
sign of any excess wear or play in the gears. They were "squeaky clean". A
local engineer commented that what had been in there was an oil & water
emulsion, and in the days before deterging engine oils that was what was
used to wash out engines & gearboxes - known as flushing oil. Fresh water
would have been better. but no harm had been done.
Â Â We washed the drive out with water, (fresh), from the bottom, usingthe drain hole, and the shaft space, then flushed with oil before replacing
the ring and 3 seals, filled with oil, rotated, drained, refilled, until
there was no sign of any water contamination.Â
Â Â I spoke with Amel, at that time the SAV was run by J-Y Selo, and heconfirmed our actions, and advised that the likely cause was monofilament
line in the water, winding round the prop and melting with the friction,
thus ruining the seal. He also said that there was little likelyhood of any
harm being done. He said that he would not advise me to leave the boat
unused for any length of time with the "white stuff" in the reservoir and
of contamination, only once at anything other than a planned haulout. (We
were going on a cruise into an area where there were no haulout facilities)
Â Â I, also, have never even considered using anything other than abronze wearing ring on the prop shaft, in fact I have two spares, with
seals, (and yes the seals do have s/s springs), one purchased from Amel on a
visit to France, the other locally made, I find it hard to tell the
difference. It's relatively easy to change the ring, a HUGE job to do
anything to the shaft.
Â Â In passing, I was told by another Amel owner that to remove the fixedpitch prop the best way was to heat it gently whilst applying gentle
pressure with a puller, there will be a "pop" and the prop will be free. I
once managed it without a puller-but remember to wear gloves!
Â Â Hope this helps everyone.<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 25, 2011 6:47 AMpic.Â I won't get back to the boat until Nov, so can't report back what I
have yet.Â I'd be willing to bet that when the new engine was installed,
that drive (and reservoir) was filled with transmission fluid...instead of
oil.Â What a mess!Â I'll let you know what I find.Â Sometimes it feels
like I'm no farther along now than I was 3 years ago in knowing what I need
to know to take care of a boat like this.Â Thanks again for dragging me
along with you...hope I don't get too heavy.
Âretaining ring/bushing on the drive shaft for the prop?
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