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Re: wind sensor
Dominique Sery
I use a Miniplex multiplexer (Shipmodul) to network everything.
The B&G Hydra 2000 instruments, the AIS A100 emTrak, the Furuno GPS (GP90) in nmea 0183,
the VHF Icom 506 and the Raymarine plotter (es127) in nmea 2000
The computer in USB (Maxsea Time zero)
And the iPad in Wifi
I chose a multiplexer because I had devices of different ages. Dominique Irko A54#16
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Re: wind sensor
Dominique Sery
Hello,
There is no nmea 0183 at the output of the wind sensor. You must keep the Hydra 2000 to connect the output nmea 0183 (wind information) to the new system. Dominique
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Re: wind sensor
Matt & Michelle Day
Eloi,
During our recent B&G conversion I wanted to save the wind instrument and depth sounder, until I could do the rigging change and haul out. Bill was incredibly helpful in providing guidance on the 183 pinout. I looked into a NMEA0183 to NMEA2K converter, and spoke to two different suppliers. Feedback from both suppliers was the same, "No guarantees the Hydra2000 output to NMEA0183, would be recognized on NMEA2K." At that point I changed gears, saved the cost of a converter and went full NMEA2K. The sensor is dumb and needs the Hydra to output a useable signal. I also started down the path of pulling the masts to do the rigging change. Its a mechanical system, I'm an engineer (new to Amels), can't be that big of a deal! I spent several weeks talking to riggers, Bill and the past owners about the rigging change. Then I spent a couple of weeks doing the electronics refit. After the advice and exploring the guts of this boat, I would have a very difficult time suggesting the rig come down. Make sure you do your research and don't let anyone convince you that the only way to change the standing rig is to dismast the boat. My cost went down, when I found a rigger whom understood it can be done in-place. Matt SV Talia SM#208
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Simpson Davits Maintenance
Hello,
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wind sensor
Eloi Bamberg
hello,
I am switching my old navigation instruments to new B&G stuff (NMEA2000). To change the wind sensor i want to wait till i change the standing Rigg and my mast will be pulled down in July, Does anybody know if the original sensor can be used as normal NMEA0183 sensor or does it need to be connected to the Hydra to be used? The documentation is not clear on that for me. Regards, Eloi SM2K 426 Red Lion
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Re: Bow Thruster Will Not Lower
Ian Park
Have you listened to the motor or tried to manually push the thruster down when operating the switch? If the motor is working but the thruster is not going down the wire strip should be slack which might indicate something mechanical jamming the drive tube. If the wire is not moving then it is a motor problem. The light and buzzer working when ‘up’ is engaged has no significance. It would always do that in a he up position.
I have had issues with the sail switches when they worked one way and not the other - slightly burnt contacts. You could test by swapping the wires for up down and see if it does descend. If so you can remove the switch and clean the contacts. It is easy to dismantle and clean. I think a failing motor might have given you a bit more notice! Good luck Ian
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Re: Bow Thruster Will Not Lower
Your model bow thruster has analog switching controls vs later model bow thrusters. There are many possibilities. It is most likely that you have a wiring connection issue or a micro-switch issue. CorrosionX is your friend and should be used at each connection. This is going to require testing everything in the bow thruster control circuit beginning with the Power switch & Up/Down toggle to the wiring and switching controlling the bow thruster actuator motor, and possibly the actuator itself. A person with average to good electrical skills can probably find the issue. If you have done anything that could have possibly caused this, check that first. The following is a snippet of a page in my Amel Book showing the Micro Switch which is inside the aluminum control box. Aluminum control box in green and actuator motor in red:
We have a 1996 Santorin, which we have owned for 4 years. Recently, when we were leaving a marina, the bow thruster would not lower. We had just come into the marina 2-3 weeks prior and there had been no issue with the thruster. We tested all of the electrical connections and there is power going to all. Also, it will beep when the toggle is switched to the "up" position, indicating that the thruster is all of the way up. It just doesn't move at all when the toggle is switched the the "down" position. We are preparing to haul out in a few days and remove the thruster for maintenance. In the meantime, can anyone think of anything else we can check? We've looked through the documents and topics in this group and couldn't find this specific issue.
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Bow Thruster Will Not Lower
Azimuth
We have a 1996 Santorin, which we have owned for 4 years. Recently, when we were leaving a marina, the bow thruster would not lower. We had just come into the marina 2-3 weeks prior and there had been no issue with the thruster. We tested all of the electrical connections and there is power going to all. Also, it will beep when the toggle is switched to the "up" position, indicating that the thruster is all of the way up. It just doesn't move at all when the toggle is switched the the "down" position. We are preparing to haul out in a few days and remove the thruster for maintenance. In the meantime, can anyone think of anything else we can check? We've looked through the documents and topics in this group and couldn't find this specific issue.
Stephen and Lisa s/v Azimuth
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Re: Bow prop
Eloi Bamberg
Thanks everybody.
I found it, fixed the loose connection and it works fine again :-) Eloi
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Re: Holding tank mystery
Paul, Very good and very complete. Bill
On Mon, Apr 19, 2021 at 3:03 PM Paul Osterberg <osterberg.paul.l@...> wrote: Thomas!
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Re: Holding tank mystery
Thomas Kleman
Many thanks for the replies and ideas. It ended up being two problems. First, the sanitary hoses and copper inlet tube were blocked. I have a number of tools to quickly deal with that so that's why the slowness of drainage while flushing was perplexing, even after changing everything in the system. The other culprit was my hot wire to the motor having enough corrosion under the "waterproof" connector to reduce performance. Now when you push that red button......stand back three feet...... it's like a jet's engine intake.
Thomas Kleman SV L'ORIENT Manaa, Tahiti
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Re: Holding tank mystery
Thomas!
I made a video on how we fixed our toilet who drained VERY slowly. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b62ZtpxCPnE&t=5s&ab_channel=Paul%C3%96sterberg Paul on SY Kerpa SM#259 Lagos, Portugal sykerpa.com
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Re: 5 piece stuffing box
...perfect Mark ! I had some doubts, with your pics all clear ;-)) many thanks Giovanni
Il Lun 19 Apr 2021, 20:31 Mark McGovern <mfmcgovern@...> ha scritto: Giovanni,
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Re: Holding tank mystery
Dave Ritten
Hi Thomas Any chance you changed the polarity of the wiring when you swapped the macerator? I have had a (non-Amel) experience where this happened and the macerator did work but very inefficiently. Dave Ritten
Prospective Owner -- Dave Ritten Auckland Prospective SM Owner
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Re: 5 piece stuffing box
Mark McGovern
Giovanni,
In the USA, this is a very common home plumbing pipe that can be found in pretty much every hardware store anywhere in the country. You can also get it on online on Amazon and eBay and MRO sites like McMaster-Carr and Grainger. Search for "2" Schedule 40 PVC Pipe".
Pics of Nominal 2" Schedule 40 PVC Pipe: Then I remembered I have calipers. Measurements might be off a bit as it's hard to hold a caliper in one hand a take a pic in the other: -- Mark McGovern SM #440 Cara Deale, MD USA
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Re: FW: Comparing Amel Super Maramu to the Amel 54 & 55
Julia Sloman
Many thanks to Joel, Ann-Sofie and Paul, and also those of you who have contacted us privately, for your comments. They have been very helpful.
Kind regards Julia
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Re: Holding tank mystery
Thomas, A few more ideas: Maybe the vent is blocked at the deck cap. You can eliminate this possibility by opening the cap to see if there is any difference. And, did you check the voltage at the pump? Of course, it could be a not-so-good or a bad pump.
On Sun, Apr 18, 2021 at 7:47 PM Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:
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Re: 5 piece stuffing box
Mark, Il 19/04/2021 12:52, Mark McGovern ha
scritto:
Giovanni,
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Re: 5 piece stuffing box
Mark McGovern
Giovanni,
I just repacked my rudder stuffing box and found that the same piece of PVC pipe that I use to seat the C-Drive seals works well to help seat the packing material in the stuffing box. I also used a 1/4" (6mm) piece of hardwood to seat the packing.
In the USA a piece of nominal 2" Schedule 40 PVC pipe about 10 inches (~250mm)long works well. The dimensions of 2" Schedule 40 PVC are as follows:
OD: 2.375 inch/60.3mm
ID: 2.047 inch/52mm
Wall Thickness: 0.154 inch/3.9mm
Length: 10 inch/250mm
-- Mark McGovern SM #440 Cara Deale, MD USA
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Re: New LiFePO4 Batteries for Aquarius
Scott SV Tengah
That's a fantastic deal and far less than what I paid for my Victron batteries. If mine ever die I might consider this manufacturer after some more research.
A few things I paid attention to when setting up my system and I noticed here, that might help those of you designing your systems for longevity: 1) For this battery, the recommended charge current is 50-80amps for each 300AH. That's around .16 x Capacity to .26C. Keep that in mind when sizing your chargers. Victron recommends 0.5C, so with my 450AH system, I am running 200 amps of charging into it, below Victron's recommended limit. Battle Born recommends 0.5C also. With an equivalent 450AH system from this manufacturer, it seems you should not have more than 75-120amps of charging. Not a big deal but it will definitely increase your generator runtimes if you don't have enough solar/wind. 2) The maximum continuous recommended discharge current is 0.66C whereas Victron recommends 2.0C. Battle Born recommends 1.0C. For most uses, this is not a concern but be aware if you're maxing out a 5kw inverter and running your water maker, that is nearly 225amps. We have done that on occassion. 3) Someone really should ask or better yet, test to see what happens at low and high voltage cutoff. Does it completely disconnect the offending 3.3v cell and if so, how does that affect bank voltage? Or does one offending cell disconnect 8 cells so that your voltage is not affected? Perhaps it does what Victron does and turn off charging, but leaves the battery connected? This is important because I have definitely gotten a few high voltage cutoffs on my system in the last 2 years. You don't want to find out that the BMS cuts all your power off in the middle of a storm in the event of a relatively common high voltage disconnect. 4) I know Victron's low voltage cutoff strategy is to disconnect the load, not something I would like to happen in a storm. I don't deal with low voltage disconnect the way Victron wants me to, rather relying on the generator to come on and raise the voltage. What is the response in this system? FYI Mastervolt has even higher charge and discharge limits, so I don't think my system is the "most robust". I do know that MV is much more expensive than Victron and it is what it is, but it's important to respect those limits. I cannot imagine Victron/MV is less conservative with their ratings compared to Chinese retailers, so it probably has to do with the internal connections. -- Scott 2007 A54 #69 SV Tengah http://www.svtengah.com
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