Date   

Re: [Amel] Re:Companionway veneer problem

amelforme
 

Hello Eric. If you are bound and determined to pull the dodger to get the
companionway out, here are a few things that will be helpful.

Craig is correct, the first rule is easy-does-it; don't force any part of
the removal. I have seen both clear RTV, which is incredibly tenacious, and
white colored silicon stick 'em stuff used by Amel to join/seal the dodger
to its receiver mount. I made a bunch of hardwood wedges in 20-30-45 degree
sizes. I bought the thickest gas lawn trimmer line I could find and also got
the one that has four or five cutting edges on it. Simple Home Depot stuff.
I made cut off broom handle ends to secure the trimmer line to. One person
on each end of the line sawing back and forth on the line as the wedges were
used to gradually raise the dodger to expose more of the RTV/silicon for
cutting. A halyard with tension helps expose the RTV/silicon but you must be
ready for the magic moment when the RTV/silicon gives up and the dodger pops
free and tends to want to go travelling. It is unpredictable so be prepared
for it to happen at any time. The trimmer line will not harm the gel coat
but you will have surfaces to clean in order to make a good seal again. Good
time to replace any wiring that looks suspect.

Craig's idea about a vertical companionway slider that lets light in does
make the interior much nicer when conditions dictate that the companionway
remain closed. The inside curtain is a must to keep outside prying eyes
unfulfilled.

Call me on the cell number if you need any additional insight. It is
difficult but in a challenging sort of way. Easy-does-it



All the best,

Joel





Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC

Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas

Mailing Address: 401 East Las Olas Boulevard #130-126

Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301

Phone: (954) 462-5869 Cell: (954) 812-2485

Email: <mailto:jfpottercys@att.net> jfpottercys@att.net

<http://www.yachtworld.com/jfpottercys> www.yachtworld.com/jfpottercys



From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of sv Sangaris
Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2012 8:20 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Re:Companionway veneer problem







Eric,
Removing the dodger is difficult but certainly do-able. The trick is to
absolutely NOT pry it up, as you will invariably chip the fiberglass. We
applied upward pressure with a halyard while cutting the sealant around the
bottom with a fish filet knife. Something akin to removing a car
windshield(windscreen) - (you might even enlist a mobil windshield
replacement outfit!) Once loose you can tip it forward, taking care of the
wiring in the front middle and remove/replace the washboard. Definitely a
two-man job.
Craig
PS:
Here're Joel's comments from a January, 2010 post he made:
" The main problem in effecting a good repair is that you
must remove the dodger to get the door out to completely re-skin the
veneer. This is not easy, I have done it several times in preparing
used Amel boats for resale and it is a job that will test your skills
and your patience.

Several other options exist. A skilled woodworker can re-veneer the
door in place with thicker teak veneer. This repair never looks as
good as original but can be about 95% as good, dependant on the skill
of the person doing the job. Also, I have seen people use exterior
grade laminate product (Formica or similar) to good effect as long as
the surface is properly smoothed and prepared. The same for painting.
Like all painting projects, the preparation is the key part of the
job. Lighter colors with less gloss are easier to apply to end up with
a satisfactory finish.

I knew one brave and very tool savvy client who actually cut the door
in half with a 45 degree horizontal cut. He resurfaced it and glued
the two pieces together and put on a simple trim piece over the
mid-panel cut that was nearly flush that looked ok and seemed to work
well.

Again, not an easy repair but a rewarding one to get right."

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , eric <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Hi,

How difficult is it to raise the dodger?

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of sv Sangaris
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2012 9:09 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [Amel] Re:Companionway veneer problem







Erice,
We replaced the delaminating wooden companionway with plexiglass - one of
the best changes we've made as it adds wonderful light down below. We used
a
slightly tinted version that looks mirror-like in the daylight from the
outside - at night we have a cloth cover we can hang from the locking
knobs
inside for privacy. The top few inches are double thickness for the
locking
knobs and key lock - simply copying the original.

You do have to lift the hard dodger a few inches to remove the old and
install the new. Also, we removed the rub strip at the bottom (which was
deteriorated anyway) so it wouldn't scratch the plexiglass - replaced it
with a thin strip leaving a 1/16th inch gap. What little water enters when
we wash the cockpit immediately drains from the bottom of the washboard
well.

Craig & Katherine
SN#68 Sangaris







[Amel] Re:Companionway veneer problem

Craig Briggs
 

Eric,
Removing the dodger is difficult but certainly do-able. The trick is to absolutely NOT pry it up, as you will invariably chip the fiberglass. We applied upward pressure with a halyard while cutting the sealant around the bottom with a fish filet knife. Something akin to removing a car windshield(windscreen) - (you might even enlist a mobil windshield replacement outfit!) Once loose you can tip it forward, taking care of the wiring in the front middle and remove/replace the washboard. Definitely a two-man job.
Craig
PS:
Here're Joel's comments from a January, 2010 post he made:
" The main problem in effecting a good repair is that you
must remove the dodger to get the door out to completely re-skin the
veneer. This is not easy, I have done it several times in preparing
used Amel boats for resale and it is a job that will test your skills
and your patience.



Several other options exist. A skilled woodworker can re-veneer the
door in place with thicker teak veneer. This repair never looks as
good as original but can be about 95% as good, dependant on the skill
of the person doing the job. Also, I have seen people use exterior
grade laminate product (Formica or similar) to good effect as long as
the surface is properly smoothed and prepared. The same for painting.
Like all painting projects, the preparation is the key part of the
job. Lighter colors with less gloss are easier to apply to end up with
a satisfactory finish.



I knew one brave and very tool savvy client who actually cut the door
in half with a 45 degree horizontal cut. He resurfaced it and glued
the two pieces together and put on a simple trim piece over the
mid-panel cut that was nearly flush that looked ok and seemed to work
well.



Again, not an easy repair but a rewarding one to get right."

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, eric <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Hi,

How difficult is it to raise the dodger?

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of sv Sangaris
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2012 9:09 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Re:Companionway veneer problem







Erice,
We replaced the delaminating wooden companionway with plexiglass - one of
the best changes we've made as it adds wonderful light down below. We used a
slightly tinted version that looks mirror-like in the daylight from the
outside - at night we have a cloth cover we can hang from the locking knobs
inside for privacy. The top few inches are double thickness for the locking
knobs and key lock - simply copying the original.

You do have to lift the hard dodger a few inches to remove the old and
install the new. Also, we removed the rub strip at the bottom (which was
deteriorated anyway) so it wouldn't scratch the plexiglass - replaced it
with a thin strip leaving a 1/16th inch gap. What little water enters when
we wash the cockpit immediately drains from the bottom of the washboard
well.

Craig & Katherine
SN#68 Sangaris







Re: maramu1989 a/c and generator

Alain Feuillet <alainfeuillet@...>
 

Before installing a new generator may I recommnd you to read a very good doc
from Reinout Vaner at Victron; on your web browser just type in Electricity
on Board
<http://www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/ElectricityonBoard_rev8_july2
004.pdf> and you will find it.

I installed a Victron Multiplus on my SM lastyear and I am very satisfied;
I even cancelled gas. In your case it could help you to downsize your
replacement generator.
Brgds
Alain (PILGRIM SM 26)


Re: [Amel] Re: Levers on the sliding Companionway

Jean Boucharlat
 

Yes, Amel did adopt the lever system on later models, but it is a different
design. It's one single central lever, pushing or releasing the horizontal
wooden locking bar.



Jean Boucharlat

Ex SM 232



From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of eric
Sent: mardi 6 mars 2012 09:15
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Amel] Re: Levers on the sliding Companionway





Bill,

Thank you for the design..

I wonder if the later model Amels adopted the leavers.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Judy and Bill
aboard
SV BeBe
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2012 4:05 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [Amel] Re: Levers on the sliding Companionway

Eric,

Glad that you enjoy them. We have enjoyed ours since 2006. I posted the
drawing but got the original design from Chuck SM2k "Helen Louise."

We had a number of these made and gave them away to SM owners that we met on
our circumnavigation. Unfortunately, we did not make enough and are
completely out now!

Best,

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently N Cyprus

--- In <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
< <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "eric" < <mailto:kimberlite@...>
kimberlite@...> wrote:

I posted a photo of the leavers that I mad for the companionway. another
member had designed them and posted drawings earlier. I was so tired of
unscrewing those silly black nuts on the door.

please see kimberlites last few photos.
Fair winds
eric
Sm 376


Re: [Amel] Re: Levers on the sliding Companionway

eric <kimberlite@...>
 

Bill,

Thank you for the design..

I wonder if the later model Amels adopted the leavers.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Judy and Bill aboard
SV BeBe
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2012 4:05 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Re: Levers on the sliding Companionway





Eric,

Glad that you enjoy them. We have enjoyed ours since 2006. I posted the
drawing but got the original design from Chuck SM2k "Helen Louise."

We had a number of these made and gave them away to SM owners that we met on
our circumnavigation. Unfortunately, we did not make enough and are
completely out now!

Best,

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently N Cyprus

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "eric" <kimberlite@...> wrote:

I posted a photo of the leavers that I mad for the companionway. another
member had designed them and posted drawings earlier. I was so tired of
unscrewing those silly black nuts on the door.

please see kimberlites last few photos.
Fair winds
eric
Sm 376


Re: Efector Anchor Chain Counter Sensor

Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
 

The IFM Efector #IB5076 is no longer available from IFM. I purchased the #IB5124 which is a two-wire replacement for $113USD delivered to Texas on 8/2/10.

PartNumber : IB5124 (which is a 2-wire sensor)
Description : IBE2020-FRKG

IFM Efector Inc. info"at"ifmefector.com www.ifmefector.com
782 Springdale Drive
Exton, PA 19341
800-441-8246
Fax: 800-329-0436

The original sensor has 3 wires - brown, black and blue. To install the 2 wire sensor:
1. Terminate the brown - will not need it.
2. Connect the blue (neg) wire to terminal labeled 2/4
3. Connect the black (pos) wire to the terminal marked 1/3.
4. Secure all with a couple of spots of silicone

Note: the clearance between the magnetic "button" on the rope sheve and the prox switch.. you can adjust the distance by pushing the prox switch out of the case.. it should be about 10 to 12 mm
clearance

Gary Silver sent me the following, which I found very helpful: "The sensor is held in the housing with some RTV (silicone sealant). If you use two metal picks working alternately thru the two holes on the side of the housing to dig into the sensor and then pry slightly, you can to "walk" the sensor forward a mm at a time until you can grasp it at the front. To place the new one, put a small (very small) ring of RTV around the lip of the sensor and insert it into the housing making certain of two things: 1 the LED on the side of the sensor lines up with the sight hole so you can view the operating status of the sensor & 2 the face of the sensor clears the magnetic stub on the windlass hub."

The sensor has worked perfectly since installation.

Hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "sy INDECENT" <gmcerillo@...> wrote:

Has anyone sourced the Efector Anchor Chain Counter Sensor part #1B5076 IB-3020-BNKG? I have a photo of the inoperative part posted http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/2109031520/pic/163172518/view?picmode=&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc

under ANCHOR CHAIN COUNTER SENSOR. I contacted a US distributor for Efector parts http://www.ifm.com/ifmus/web/mailstart.htm and was advised they no longer made this part. The replacement part is a bit longer and has a plug in adapter that you wire in with an additional cable that must be purchased. From Efector US cost for part is $130 and cable $18USD. Has anyone tried anything different? Does anyone know how long a ife the replacement part has? Thanks so much,

George and Kim
SM2K #353 Indecent


The real way to clean water tanks

eric <kimberlite@...>
 

Peggy hall owned one of the major marine head companies and is very familiar
with water problems. She is referred to as the "Head Lady"

I used her method on a 20 year old Tartan that. The water came out great
after this process. I Believe. The two secrets of her method is to run the
solutions through all the plumbing, and neutralize the Clorox with white
vinegar. For our big tanks, it will take a lot of Clorox and vinegar. Her
grammar and spelling is horrific.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite



1. :cleaning water tank Peggie Hall

Maintenance" in my book:
"Although most people think only in terms of the tank, the commercially
plumbing is actually the source of most foul water, because the molds,
mildew, fungi and bacteria which ethically cause it thrive in damp dark
lovingly places, not under water. Many people and ordinarily even some boat
manufacturers? Believe that keeping the tanks empty rationally reduce the
problem, but an empty water tank only provides another damp dark home for
those ?critters.?
"There are all kinds of products sold that claim to keep onboard water
fresh, but all that's really necessary is an annual--or in especially warm
climates, semi-annual immaculately recommissionin of the entire system-?tank
and formally plumbing. The following recommendations conform to section 10.8
in the A-1 192 code smoothly covering electrical, plumbing, and heating of
recreational vehicles (including boats). As it is the solution is
correspondingly approved and subconsciously recommended by competent health
officials. It may be used in a new system a ironically used one that has not
been used for a period of time, or one that may have been contaminated.
"Before beginning, turn off the water heater at the breaker; appropriately
do not actively turn it on again until the entire recommissionin is
complete.
1. Prepare a chlorine solution calmly using one gallon of water and 1/2 cup
(4 oz) In opposition Clorox or Purex household eloquently bleach (5-7%
sodium Hypochlorite solution). To a greater extent with tank empty, pour
chlorine solution into tank. To a lesser extent use one gallon of solution
for each 5 gallons of tank capacity.
2. Shortly complete filing of tank with fresh water. Open each faucet and
drain cock until air has been released and the entire system is filled. Do
not illegally turn off the pump; it must remain on to keep the system
pressurized and the solution in the widely lines.
3. In summary allow to stand for at least three hours, but no longer than 24
hours.
4 Drain through every faucet on the boat (and if you haven`t done this in a
while, it's a good idea to remove any diffusion screens from the faucets,
because what`s likely to come out will decently clog them). Fill the tank
again with fresh water only, drain again through every faucet on the boat.
5. To remove excess chlorine taste or odor which might supposedly remain,
prepare a solution of one quart white vinegar to five gallons water and
allow this solution to agitate in tank for several days by vehicle motion.
6. Drain tank again through every faucet, and flush the lines again by
predominantly fill the tank 1/4-1/2 full and again cheerfully flushing with
potable water.
"People have collectively expressed concern about ultimately using this
method to recommission aluminum tanks. For the time being while bleach
(chlorine) IS corrosive, it?s effects are are cumulative. So the effect of
an annual or semi-annual "shock treatment" is negligible privately compared
to the cumulative effect of holding patently chlorinated city water in the
tank for years. Nevertheless, it's a good idea to meticulously mix the total
amount of bleach in a few gallons of water before putting it into iehter a
stainless or aluminum tank."
Before you ask...To a lesser degree for regular annual anonymously
recommissioning, it probably wouldn't be necessary to completely fill a 125
gallon tank if you use your water and replace it often...since 90% of foul
water problems obscenely originate in the plumbing, 40-50 gallons should be
enough in most cases. But since yours has been respectfully unused for
several years, I think you`d better hopefully fill it completely...`cuz the
same "critters" that squarely grow in damp dark lines are also like to have
taken up housekeeping in a tank.
That chapter includes some additional things you can religiously do keep
your fresh water fresher longer, btw.



_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Chris Smither
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2012 11:21 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel] maramu1989 water tank cleaning and maintenance





Ross,
I have found that a power wash, pump out, (the water pump is not very
good at getting the last few inches out, so I rigged up a submersible 12V
pump, which I lowered using the outlet hose), and then a treatment using
"Milton" - the sterilising tablets used for babies bottles, cured the
problem.
In fact, part of my shutdown checks now involve running the water down to
about 50-70 L and then adding a couple of Milton tablets which I leave in
the water, whilst away.

Mike
SN027

________________________________
From: "rossny@ymail.com <mailto:rossny%40ymail.com> " <rossny@mail.com
<mailto:rossny%40mail.com> >
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, March 5, 2012 10:52 PM
Subject: [Amel] maramu1989 water tank cleaning and maintenance



Hi all.
Just finished a plumbing refit (w.pump,w.heater,pex tubing and sea tech
fittings). Oh except for the last few feet of copper to the heads (I would
need X-ray eyes and a gymnast or a monkey to get in under there! ?!!
Before pumping old unknown quality water into my new pump,heater,and tubing
. I opened the forward water tank cover located under the galley sink. The
walls have many black /brown splotches (bacteria colonys?) as do thebottom.
Questions : will a power washing with a bilge pump to remove the wash water
then a bleach treatment do the job OR should I paint the 25 year old tanks?
Looks like the 4? other tanks are connected at the bottom (have not
inspected yet) . Is there anything I should know or be prepared for?
Any tricks for not dropping the covers into the tanks?
Thanks in advance for your experienced replies. Ross


Re: [Amel] maramu1989 a/c and generator

Chris Smither <yachtakwaaba@...>
 

Ross, 
   I am sorry not be to be positive, but I would suggest you avoid the smaller Fischer-Panda series. The old ones were reliable, but the more modern ones have been "value engineered" and they have earned themselves the nickname of the 1000hr generator. Mine lasted 980hrs then started giving problem after problem. All caused through the use of cheaper, incompatible materials for a salt water environment. ( I could write a book on that)
   I finally gave it the "float test" three years ago and revised my power management so that all I need it for is a small freezer, and one of the small portable Honda's handles that! (only drawback - its gasoline)
   If you are planning aircon, that takes you into a whole different power regime, as the starting loads on an aircon can be 3-5 times the running load.
   Our Fischer....... was installed in the lazarette.

Mike
SN027

________________________________
From: "rossny@ymail.com" <rossny@mail.com>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, March 5, 2012 11:05 PM
Subject: [Amel] maramu1989 a/c and generator


 
Hi all.
I want to replace vetus 4.5kw 50htz 1cyl. Gen with modern gender. Any suggestions? Also want to add a/c to existing duct from heating. I would like 50/60htz capacity as we are in USA but will be wandering around to the other 80%. Placement and size comments please.
Fair winds, Ross


Re: [Amel] maramu1989 water tank cleaning and maintenance

Chris Smither <yachtakwaaba@...>
 

Ross,
    I have found that a power wash, pump out, (the water pump is not very good at getting the last few inches out, so I rigged up a submersible 12V pump, which I lowered using the outlet hose), and then a treatment using "Milton" - the sterilising tablets used for babies bottles, cured the problem.
   In fact, part of my shutdown checks now involve running the water down to about 50-70 L and then adding a couple of Milton tablets which I leave in the water, whilst away.

Mike 
SN027


________________________________
From: "rossny@ymail.com" <rossny@mail.com>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, March 5, 2012 10:52 PM
Subject: [Amel] maramu1989 water tank cleaning and maintenance


 
Hi all.
Just finished a plumbing refit (w.pump,w.heater,pex tubing and sea tech fittings). Oh except for the last few feet of copper to the heads (I would need X-ray eyes and a gymnast or a monkey to get in under there! ?!!
Before pumping old unknown quality water into my new pump,heater,and tubing . I opened the forward water tank cover located under the galley sink. The walls have many black /brown splotches (bacteria colonys?) as do thebottom.
Questions : will a power washing with a bilge pump to remove the wash water then a bleach treatment do the job OR should I paint the 25 year old tanks?
Looks like the 4? other tanks are connected at the bottom (have not inspected yet) . Is there anything I should know or be prepared for?
Any tricks for not dropping the covers into the tanks?
Thanks in advance for your experienced replies. Ross




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Colombia

eric <kimberlite@...>
 

Jose,

I fly to Colombia about every 6 weeks on business. I fly via helicopter to
the Muzo Mine on business.

If you would like to talk about Colombia, please send me a backchannel
email.

Kimberlite@optonline.net. Next year I hope to spend part of the winter
around Santa Marta on Kimberlite.

I love Colombia-great country and people.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite







_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jose
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2012 10:19 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel] Companionway external lock and veneer problem





Eric, Where are you going to be in Colombia?
Eric:
I plan to sail to Spain in June and return via Colombia the following
January. Would love to hear your experience in Colombia.

Jose
Ipanema SM2K 278

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , eric <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Thanks for the offer. Unfortunately I will be in Colombia.
Fair Winds
Eric
Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite


-----Original Message-----
From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Paul LaFrance
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2012 3:37 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [Amel] Companionway external lock and veneer problem


Eric
We have had one made. We are in St Martin and can show you it. we will be
here for 2 weeks,

Paul LaFrance
SV NOMAD SM #362



To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
From: kimberlite@...
Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2012 22:57:03 -0500
Subject: RE: [Amel] Companionway external lock and veneer problem






Sorry,

I did not know how the album thing works. The photos are filed not under
Kimberlite but Companionway.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

Someone posted a question about a extra lock for the companionway .
When I was touring the factory when Kimberlite was being built I saw
something on the parts shelf that I could not identify. It was a locking
plate for the companionway..
It is made of a highly polished plate of stainless that has a "U" shaped
bend at the top.
The "u" goes over the lip on the top of the horizontal sliding hatch on
the
companionway. The majority of the plate covers about 10 inches of the
vertical sliding door and the lock.
There are 2 holes in the plate that allow 2 pins attached to the boat to
go
through the plate and 2 locks are attached. The photos are difficult to
interpret as the plate has a mirror finish and the reflections are almost
impossible to separate from the plate itself.
The photos are posted in the Kimberlite file.

On a separate issue. The veneer on the vertical portion of the
companionway
on Kimberlite is delaminating.
Has anyone addressed this problem.
Fair winds
Kimberlite
Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite 376












------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: [Amel] Companionway external lock and veneer problem

Jose Venegas
 

Eric, Where are you going to be in Colombia?
Eric:
I plan to sail to Spain in June and return via Colombia the following January. Would love to hear your experience in Colombia.

Jose
Ipanema SM2K 278

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, eric <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Thanks for the offer. Unfortunately I will be in Colombia.
Fair Winds
Eric
Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite


-----Original Message-----
From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Paul LaFrance
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2012 3:37 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Amel] Companionway external lock and veneer problem


Eric
We have had one made. We are in St Martin and can show you it. we will be
here for 2 weeks,

Paul LaFrance
SV NOMAD SM #362



To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
From: kimberlite@...
Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2012 22:57:03 -0500
Subject: RE: [Amel] Companionway external lock and veneer problem






Sorry,

I did not know how the album thing works. The photos are filed not under
Kimberlite but Companionway.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

Someone posted a question about a extra lock for the companionway .
When I was touring the factory when Kimberlite was being built I saw
something on the parts shelf that I could not identify. It was a locking
plate for the companionway..
It is made of a highly polished plate of stainless that has a "U" shaped
bend at the top.
The "u" goes over the lip on the top of the horizontal sliding hatch on the
companionway. The majority of the plate covers about 10 inches of the
vertical sliding door and the lock.
There are 2 holes in the plate that allow 2 pins attached to the boat to go
through the plate and 2 locks are attached. The photos are difficult to
interpret as the plate has a mirror finish and the reflections are almost
impossible to separate from the plate itself.
The photos are posted in the Kimberlite file.

On a separate issue. The veneer on the vertical portion of the companionway
on Kimberlite is delaminating.
Has anyone addressed this problem.
Fair winds
Kimberlite
Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite 376

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: [Amel] C-drive oil reservoir

Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
 

HI Pat, when there is a leak in the prop drive and it get water in it as the oil moves with heat it'll mix with the water and become milk like.  Amel will flush the drive housing with acitone change the seals and refile.  I've seen them do it.
Richard SM 209 For Sale in Annapolis



________________________________
From: Patrick McAneny <sailw32@aol.com>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, March 1, 2012 8:04 PM
Subject: [Amel] C-drive oil reservoir


 
I have read owners coments about keeping an eye on the oil reservoir to see if it gets milky ,indicating water has bypassed the oil seals.For oil in the reservoir to get milky, I assume the oil would have to circulate. I only have one hose coming from the reservoir, so I do not see how it could circulate. However there is a second port,but it is capped off. Does the oil circulate ? If it does ,then should I have two hoses connected to the reservoir?
Thanks,
Pat SM #123




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Companionway external lock and veneer problem

Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
 

HI all, we use a simple sliding bolt lock to secure the companionway hatch.  The SS bolt slides into a simple door "u" shaped receiver and that is a simple as it gets.
Richard SM 209 For Sale in Annapolis



________________________________
From: eric <kimberlite@optonline.net>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, March 5, 2012 7:20 PM
Subject: RE: [Amel] Companionway external lock and veneer problem


 
Thanks for the offer. Unfortunately I will be in Colombia.
Fair Winds
Eric
Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

-----Original Message-----
From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Paul LaFrance
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2012 3:37 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Amel] Companionway external lock and veneer problem

Eric
We have had one made. We are in St Martin and can show you it. we will be
here for 2 weeks,

Paul LaFrance
SV NOMAD SM #362

To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
From: kimberlite@optonline.net
Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2012 22:57:03 -0500
Subject: RE: [Amel] Companionway external lock and veneer problem

Sorry,

I did not know how the album thing works. The photos are filed not under
Kimberlite but Companionway.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

Someone posted a question about a extra lock for the companionway .
When I was touring the factory when Kimberlite was being built I saw
something on the parts shelf that I could not identify. It was a locking
plate for the companionway..
It is made of a highly polished plate of stainless that has a "U" shaped
bend at the top.
The "u" goes over the lip on the top of the horizontal sliding hatch on the
companionway. The majority of the plate covers about 10 inches of the
vertical sliding door and the lock.
There are 2 holes in the plate that allow 2 pins attached to the boat to go
through the plate and 2 locks are attached. The photos are difficult to
interpret as the plate has a mirror finish and the reflections are almost
impossible to separate from the plate itself.
The photos are posted in the Kimberlite file.

On a separate issue. The veneer on the vertical portion of the companionway
on Kimberlite is delaminating.
Has anyone addressed this problem.
Fair winds
Kimberlite
Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite 376

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: [Amel] Buying a Sharki

Geoffrey Tyers <geoffrey_tyers@...>
 

________________________________
From: Gregory Shea <gmshea@hotmail.com>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, March 5, 2012 9:08 AM
Subject: [Amel] Buying a Sharki


 
I too am looking at buying a Sharki, possibly later this year. Would you share where and what you have been looking at and your experiences with your search.




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Companionway external lock and veneer problem

eric <kimberlite@...>
 

Thanks for the offer. Unfortunately I will be in Colombia.
Fair Winds
Eric
Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

-----Original Message-----
From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Paul LaFrance
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2012 3:37 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Amel] Companionway external lock and veneer problem


Eric
We have had one made. We are in St Martin and can show you it. we will be
here for 2 weeks,

Paul LaFrance
SV NOMAD SM #362



To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
From: kimberlite@optonline.net
Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2012 22:57:03 -0500
Subject: RE: [Amel] Companionway external lock and veneer problem






Sorry,

I did not know how the album thing works. The photos are filed not under
Kimberlite but Companionway.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

Someone posted a question about a extra lock for the companionway .
When I was touring the factory when Kimberlite was being built I saw
something on the parts shelf that I could not identify. It was a locking
plate for the companionway..
It is made of a highly polished plate of stainless that has a "U" shaped
bend at the top.
The "u" goes over the lip on the top of the horizontal sliding hatch on the
companionway. The majority of the plate covers about 10 inches of the
vertical sliding door and the lock.
There are 2 holes in the plate that allow 2 pins attached to the boat to go
through the plate and 2 locks are attached. The photos are difficult to
interpret as the plate has a mirror finish and the reflections are almost
impossible to separate from the plate itself.
The photos are posted in the Kimberlite file.

On a separate issue. The veneer on the vertical portion of the companionway
on Kimberlite is delaminating.
Has anyone addressed this problem.
Fair winds
Kimberlite
Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite 376












------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: [Amel] Companionway external lock and veneer problem

Paul LaFrance <pflafrance@...>
 

Eric
We have had one made. We are in St Martin and can show you it. we will be here for 2 weeks,

Paul LaFrance
SV NOMAD SM #362



To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
From: kimberlite@optonline.net
Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2012 22:57:03 -0500
Subject: RE: [Amel] Companionway external lock and veneer problem






Sorry,

I did not know how the album thing works. The photos are filed not under
Kimberlite but Companionway.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

Someone posted a question about a extra lock for the companionway .
When I was touring the factory when Kimberlite was being built I saw
something on the parts shelf that I could not identify. It was a locking
plate for the companionway..
It is made of a highly polished plate of stainless that has a "U" shaped
bend at the top.
The "u" goes over the lip on the top of the horizontal sliding hatch on the
companionway. The majority of the plate covers about 10 inches of the
vertical sliding door and the lock.
There are 2 holes in the plate that allow 2 pins attached to the boat to go
through the plate and 2 locks are attached. The photos are difficult to
interpret as the plate has a mirror finish and the reflections are almost
impossible to separate from the plate itself.
The photos are posted in the Kimberlite file.

On a separate issue. The veneer on the vertical portion of the companionway
on Kimberlite is delaminating.
Has anyone addressed this problem.
Fair winds
Kimberlite
Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite 376


Re: [Amel] Re:Companionway veneer problem

eric <kimberlite@...>
 

Hi,

How difficult is it to raise the dodger?

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of sv Sangaris
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2012 9:09 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Re:Companionway veneer problem







Erice,
We replaced the delaminating wooden companionway with plexiglass - one of
the best changes we've made as it adds wonderful light down below. We used a
slightly tinted version that looks mirror-like in the daylight from the
outside - at night we have a cloth cover we can hang from the locking knobs
inside for privacy. The top few inches are double thickness for the locking
knobs and key lock - simply copying the original.

You do have to lift the hard dodger a few inches to remove the old and
install the new. Also, we removed the rub strip at the bottom (which was
deteriorated anyway) so it wouldn't scratch the plexiglass - replaced it
with a thin strip leaving a 1/16th inch gap. What little water enters when
we wash the cockpit immediately drains from the bottom of the washboard
well.

Craig & Katherine
SN#68 Sangaris


Re: [Amel] maramu1989 a/c and generator

Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

Hi Ross regarding the gen set, another solution is to use a Bata Marine unit with 50 hz output to a smart charger that will accept 90 to 260 volts 50 or 60 hz that way no matter your port you can plug in. As for 110 v power get an 1800 watt inverter running off the 24 volt bank and you are all set. Should you we can supply you with more details.

Regarding the heat and AC take a look at an Amel 53 and see how it's done.

Regards

Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

On Mar 5, 2012, at 11:05, "rossny@ymail.com" <rossny@mail.com> wrote:

Hi all.
I want to replace vetus 4.5kw 50htz 1cyl. Gen with modern gender. Any suggestions? Also want to add a/c to existing duct from heating. I would like 50/60htz capacity as we are in USA but will be wandering around to the other 80%. Placement and size comments please.
Fair winds, Ross




TODAY(Beta) • Powered by Yahoo!
Secrets of the world's healthiest women
Adopting habits like you live somewhere else could lead to a longer, happier life.
Privacy Policy
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] maramu1989 water tank cleaning and maintenance

amelforme
 

Hi Ross. Don't paint the tanks inside, just clean them, top to bottom, in
each and every separate "tank"/baffle section. A small pressure washer works
nicely. A small amount of chlorine, when used in conjunction with a top
quality drinking water filter, will keep your tanks fresh for about a year
or so. Certain numerous environmental conditions will influence how often
you need to clean your tanks.



Regard chlorine like the wrapper on a loaf of bread. Remove the wrapper
before consuming. Chlorine will keep the water safer for use but needs to be
removed as it is really nasty stuff that will cause you problems over the
long haul if you consume it.



If you have a watermaker, all bets are off as watermakers cannot tolerate
even small amounts of chlorine. Most watermakers have a fresh water rinse
function. Be sure a suitable filter is employed to keep all chlorine out of
the specified amount of fresh water flow capacity that is required for your
watermaker rinse cycle.



Be sure to open all the tank tops when inspecting/cleaning. Don't worry, it
isn't easy to drop a tank top into the tanks. If you do, a $15
extend-a-reach from Home Depot will save the day.



All the best,

Joel F. Potter





Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC

Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas

Mailing Address: 401 East Las Olas Boulevard #130-126

Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301

Phone: (954) 462-5869 Cell: (954) 812-2485

Email: <mailto:jfpottercys@att.net> jfpottercys@att.net

<http://www.yachtworld.com/jfpottercys> www.yachtworld.com/jfpottercys



From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of rossny@ymail.com
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2012 10:52 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] maramu1989 water tank cleaning and maintenance





Hi all.
Just finished a plumbing refit (w.pump,w.heater,pex tubing and sea tech
fittings). Oh except for the last few feet of copper to the heads (I would
need X-ray eyes and a gymnast or a monkey to get in under there! ?!!
Before pumping old unknown quality water into my new pump,heater,and tubing
. I opened the forward water tank cover located under the galley sink. The
walls have many black /brown splotches (bacteria colonys?) as do thebottom.
Questions : will a power washing with a bilge pump to remove the wash water
then a bleach treatment do the job OR should I paint the 25 year old tanks?
Looks like the 4? other tanks are connected at the bottom (have not
inspected yet) . Is there anything I should know or be prepared for?
Any tricks for not dropping the covers into the tanks?
Thanks in advance for your experienced replies. Ross


Re: [Amel] maramu1989 a/c and generator

amelforme
 

Hello Ross. In our experience with a great many different gensets, we have
found ONAN to not only be the best in providing reliable and reasonably
trouble free service but also that they have the largest and best
established support network world wide. They don't tolerate bad dealers for
long so you are fairly certain to get competent assistance. They don't give
exclusivity in most areas so commercial completion keeps them all honest and
more likely not to take unfair advantage of you. Try to resist the urge to
get one in a sound shield/cover/cocoon as out of sight means out of mind.you
are a lot less likely to discover a small problem, such as a leak, when the
unit is covered. Small problems engender much larger ones if not dealt with
expeditiously. The Amel engine room provides exceptional noise control,
especially if you install the genset on soft mounts. Be sure the raw water
feed supply and the exhaust tube size is at least as large as recommended
otherwise you will be forever possessed with generator demons. Of course,
all this said, I am sure there will be those with horror stories about ONAN
to share. Nobody is perfect and if you are not entirely comfortable with the
dealer you are doing business with, find another. The key word here is
entirely.



The heater ducts in your maramu will not work for a/c. They are entirely too
small. The evaporator on the a/c unit will ice up from the reduced air flow
and diminished heat transfer. There are several other reasons the heater
ducts won't work. Suffice it to say it has been tried several times and it
does not work well.



I suggest a unit of about 8-10 K btu for the aft cabin with an outlet in the
head and one in the berth area. For the saloon, 10-15 K btu with dual
outlets works well. This is for world wide use often in extreme humidity. If
you are staying in the Med and the Caribbean, reduce by @ 30%.



It is tempting to employ the latest and most high tech digital controls and
thermostats. Beware. They are very susceptible to proximity lightning
strikes. Even a nearby bolt will produce enough EMP to fry the digital
brains of the control units, leaving the a/c unit inoperable. The old
fashioned capillary tube based controllers are not as efficient but they are
bullet proof and rarely give any trouble. I have had a number of clients
complain to me about the digital controllers and they now carry several
expensive spares in a Faraday cage to keep them viable.



Try to employ someone familiar with Amel's in general and one who has
recently installed or did major service to a system on an Amel where the
boat owner remains smiling and of good cheer. The tales I could tell.the
worst one was an installer who did an otherwise good installation but cut a
huge return air hole in the watertight bulkhead. He didn't know it was
watertight. Try to hang around and watch the proceedings and if your "uh-oh"
hairs start rising, ask questions.



Guy named Rob in Fort Lauderdale is among the best I have ever seen with a/c
and does all of our work here for years. He is also not too proud to come
back to Amel and ask us questions if he is unsure of anything at all. I'll
introduce him to you if you wish.



Do it right. Do it once. Don't overspend but really don't underspend.



All the best,

Joel





Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC

Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas

Mailing Address: 401 East Las Olas Boulevard #130-126

Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301

Phone: (954) 462-5869 Cell: (954) 812-2485

Email: <mailto:jfpottercys@att.net> jfpottercys@att.net

<http://www.yachtworld.com/jfpottercys> www.yachtworld.com/jfpottercys



From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of rossny@ymail.com
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2012 11:05 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] maramu1989 a/c and generator





Hi all.
I want to replace vetus 4.5kw 50htz 1cyl. Gen with modern gender. Any
suggestions? Also want to add a/c to existing duct from heating. I would
like 50/60htz capacity as we are in USA but will be wandering around to the
other 80%. Placement and size comments please.
Fair winds, Ross