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Re: [Amel] Battery life AND control

Anne and John Hollamby <annejohnholl@...>
 

Hello Stefano,
Check with local battery shops to find one that has a modern electronic battery tester and have them come to test the batteries one by one and then if they are all nearing end of life replace the lot.
This is expensive but makes for more peace of mind. You will probably have to reset the battery monitor, there are fuses in each line to the meter and these are just above the main battery switches. See the manual, one has to be connected before the other one, I am not on my boat at the moment so I cannot tell you which one it is!

Happy charging, Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM 319

----- Original Message -----
From: cptbiffi
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2012 5:39 PM
Subject: [Amel] Battery life AND control



Hy, my hull is 195 of SM. On the magnetronic for battery control system I'm reading 236 ah,59% and 27v. CAP and MEM flashing. That is after 6days with no charge and 2ah use,AND 6days of continous charge. Batterys Are over or I can do anything? Thanks for any suggestion
Stefano from n'everest dry in olbia
Re: [Amel] Fresh water pump pressure problem

Martin <yachtcaduceus@...>
 

Pat, thank you for this advice. I am off to the boat later today and wil check this out. The symptoms are exactly what you describe. Does anyone have any knowledge of how to reintroduce air into the receiver.
Martin
Re: [Amel] Fresh water pump pressure problem

Patrick McAneny
 

Martin, If your system has a water tank, the tank should have a head of air
in which is compressed and supplies pressure when you open your faucet.
When the pressure drops a bit then the pump comes on to restore pressure. If
the tank has lost its head of air then the tank is waterbound and the
pressure will drop immediately and the pump will come on the second you open a
faucet. My house has a well and a old cold water storage tank. The tank
loses its head and the pump cycles on and off, until I pump air back into the
tank, I have to do this a couple times a year. If you have a tank it
probably has an air blatter in it.There may or may not be a valve the restore the
lost air.

Pat SM #123

In a message dated 3/11/2012 10:31:29 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
yachtcaduceus@... writes:




After 5 years of faultless service the fresh water pump on our Amel 54 #56
has decided to misbehave; and that just as we are about to leave Fort
Lauderdale after weeks spent sorting out other issues. An anyone advise where
the problem may be.

The pressure in the water system stays constant at the usual level and is
maintained at that level over a period of time, i.e. there are no apparent
leaks. When a faucet is opened the pump starts to cut in and out as if
working on demand, instead of drawing on the receiver until the pressure drops
and then recharging the receiver. I would assume that it is the pressure
switch but would be grateful to know if anyone else has seen this problem.

If it is the pressure switch does anyoner know what a suitable replacement
sourceable in the USA might be.

Regards,
Martin Bevan
Caduceus 54 #56
Fort Lauderdale, Florida
Re: Securing flooring hatches

Jose Venegas
 

Sorry guys, after posting it I realize that there was a long series of posts about this topic. So, no need to reply for the locks but any other tips are still appreciated.

Thanks

Jose and Magnolia
Ipanema SM2K 278
In Boston awaiting a June 15th departure.

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Jose" <jvenegas@...> wrote:

We are preparing Ipanema for a trans Atlantic crossing and it is recommended that we secure the flooring hatches. I remember that the newer versions of the SM2000 have some sort of Hatch Latch securing the flooring hatches.
Can somebody kindly show me what they look like and how they are installed?
Has anybody secured the v-berth and aft-cabin beads to prevent their opening in case of a roll?
Any other thoughts or tips would be greatly appreciated.
Securing flooring hatches

Jose Venegas
 

We are preparing Ipanema for a trans Atlantic crossing and it is recommended that we secure the flooring hatches. I remember that the newer versions of the SM2000 have some sort of Hatch Latch securing the flooring hatches.
Can somebody kindly show me what they look like and how they are installed?
Has anybody secured the v-berth and aft-cabin beads to prevent their opening in case of a roll?
Any other thoughts or tips would be greatly appreciated.
Fresh water pump pressure problem

Martin <yachtcaduceus@...>
 

After 5 years of faultless service the fresh water pump on our Amel 54 #56 has decided to misbehave; and that just as we are about to leave Fort Lauderdale after weeks spent sorting out other issues. An anyone advise where the problem may be.

The pressure in the water system stays constant at the usual level and is maintained at that level over a period of time, i.e. there are no apparent leaks. When a faucet is opened the pump starts to cut in and out as if working on demand, instead of drawing on the receiver until the pressure drops and then recharging the receiver. I would assume that it is the pressure switch but would be grateful to know if anyone else has seen this problem.

If it is the pressure switch does anyoner know what a suitable replacement sourceable in the USA might be.

Regards,
Martin Bevan
Caduceus 54 #56
Fort Lauderdale, Florida
Re: [Amel] Battery life AND control

Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
 

Hi, How old are your batteries?  If older then 5 or 6 years they more then likely are getting tired and may need replacement.
First: check the batteries for water.
Second:Using a hydrometer check each battery if you find one cell in any battery very low replace that battery.
Third: using a voltmeter check the batteries with the charger off and the switches off. If your volt meter is the same as the magnetronic and then,

If all is well then re-set the magnetronic to a setting of 500. and see what happens.
Good luck.
Richard on SM 209 for Sail in Annapolis PRICE REDUCED



________________________________
From: cptbiffi <cptbiffi@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2012 11:39 AM
Subject: [Amel] Battery life AND control


 
Hy, my hull is 195 of SM. On the magnetronic for battery control system I'm reading 236 ah,59% and 27v. CAP and MEM flashing. That is after 6days with no charge and 2ah use,AND 6days of continous charge. Batterys Are over or I can do anything? Thanks for any suggestion
Stefano from n'everest dry in olbia




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Battery life AND control

Stefano Biffi
 

Hy, my hull is 195 of SM. On the magnetronic for battery control system I'm reading 236 ah,59% and 27v. CAP and MEM flashing. That is after 6days with no charge and 2ah use,AND 6days of continous charge. Batterys Are over or I can do anything? Thanks for any suggestion
Stefano from n'everest dry in olbia
Re: [Amel] AIS and chains

Anne and John Hollamby <annejohnholl@...>
 

For the benefit of youth the chain was a unit of length 22 yards long and was measured with a Gunters or Surveyors chain which has 100 links. This unit was created by the Rev Gunter in 1620 and was in use in the UK until about 1960. There are 10 chains to a furlong and 8 furlongs to a statute mile. It was used for much of that period for measuring pieces or plots of land and still exists as such in many land deeds. One furlong times one chain is an acre. It is still used in North America for measuring land thus a quarter section is 40 chains by 40 chains. It is also still used for measuring the rate of spread of wildfires in the States and in horse racing thus a race might be for a distance of 1 mile and 5 furlongs. Wikipedia supplies much more data including the fact that it was much used in the Colonies thus roads were laid out in widths of one or one and a half chains wide and buiding plots were a chain wide.
A cricket pitch is a chain long between the wickets.
The chain was very much still in use when I was studying for my exams to become a Chartered Surveyor in the 1950s and one could check the accuracy of a chains length on some special markers in Trafalgar Square!

Enough said on this subject, John Hollamby, FRICS, SM319

----- Original Message -----
From: stephreg
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2012 10:34 PM
Subject: Re: [Amel] AIS





Oh for goodness sakes! A cricket pitch is a sort of side-arm throw in baseball which makes the pitcher look like a cricket, hence the name, "cricket pitch".

Why this has anything to do with a "cable", which is the 19th century version of a text message, is beyond me.

As to a "pitch of 22 yards", let me point out that the distance from the pitcher's plate to home base is 60 feet, 6 inches or a little over 20 yards. The catcher crouches a little behind the plate, but not two yards behind the plate, so a pitch of 22 yards would be most unusual indeed.

I hope this sorts things out.

--- In amelyachtowners@..., Ian & Judy Jenkins <ianjudyjenkins@...> wrote:
>
>
> Richard, It has to be a Brit sport--noone in the colonies would be clever ( or devious) enough to invent a pitch of 22 yards. Cheers, Ian
>
> > To: amelyachtowners@...
> > From: richard03801@...
> > Date: Fri, 28 May 2010 09:45:03 +0000
> > Subject: Re: [Amel] AIS
> >
> > Hey thanks you're the first to answer that question I've asked it many times to many a sailor including a good number of old salt Captains.
> > What's a pitch is that from American baseball or some foolish Brit so called sport with folks dressed for church and a fly swatter of a "bat".
> > All the best mates.
> > Richard SM 209
> > Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Ian & Judy Jenkins <ianjudyjenkins@...>
> > Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 21:54:43
> > To: <amelyachtowners@...>
> > Subject: RE: [Amel] AIS
> >
> >
> > Hi Richard, One nautical mile is 2000 yards. One cable is a tenth of a nautical mile, 200 yards--or to put it into really simple terms , about nine cricket pitches..... Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Hamble
> >
> > > To: amelyachtowners@...
> > > From: richard03801@...
> > > Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 16:10:33 +0000
> > > Subject: Re: [Amel] AIS
> > >
> > > We fully agree the only way to get a ships response is to call the by have your position course and speed in front of you. Say your intentions clearly and slowly. In many miles at sea we've found this works well. In fact if you listen in on the bridge to bridge chatter they do the same.
> > >
> > > We use a stand alone AIS that works well and give us a stable display and a single antenna with a spliter. Add an Icom digital VHF with a full feature mike at the helm as well as chart plotter radar. Now that we have AIS we can use the radar pause feature to save battery power. We cycle the radar every 20 min. Unless we have weather or targets on screen.
> > > Does anyone know how far a cable is????
> > >
> > > Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: "rossirossix4" <rossidesigngroup@...>
> > > Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 15:54:55
> > > To: <amelyachtowners@...>
> > > Subject: [Amel] AIS
> > >
> > > I asked my daughter about MMSI calls to ships. She is a ships bridge officer--2nd officer--with extensive experience in the Strait of Malacca, Gibraltar and other crowded places. She says that they "never" get MMSI calls and that it would be "weird" to get one. (This, in my opinion doesn't mean it would be wrong to use it to "ring em up" in an urgent situation.
> > >
> > > She did say that if you use the ships name it definitely gets their attention and they should respond to you. Also give your distance, your bearing from them (the reciprocal what you show for them), description of your boat and your intentions.
> > >
> > > For those of us who need to replace our non-DSC fixed VHFs anyway, Standard Horizon has a relatively inexpensive ($315 street price) VHF--Matrix AIS GX2100 with a built in AIS receiver and screen. The available remote mic (maybe in your cockpit) also displays the AIS screen, which shows the normal AIS calculated data plus the name of the vessels, kind of handy at 3:00 am--see em, call em. http://www.standardhorizon.com/indexVS.cfm?cmd=DisplayProducts&ProdCatID=83&encProdID=F858763BB81027701141A0167DE2A031&DivisionID=3&isArchived=0
> > >
> > > Standard Horizon sent me a picture of the remote mic displaying an AIS screen display--again, handy in the cockpit.
> > >
> > > Class B transceiver also sounds good. They consume very little power (I covered this in a previous posting).
> > >
> > > Bob
> > > Brittany de la Mer
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ------------------------------------
> > >
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> > __________________________________________________________
> > http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/195013117/direct/01/
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
>
> __________________________________________________________
> http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/197222280/direct/01/
> Do you have a story that started on Hotmail? Tell us now
>
>
>
Re: [Amel] AIS

Stephan Regulinski
 

Oh for goodness sakes! A cricket pitch is a sort of side-arm throw in baseball which makes the pitcher look like a cricket, hence the name, "cricket pitch".

Why this has anything to do with a "cable", which is the 19th century version of a text message, is beyond me.

As to a "pitch of 22 yards", let me point out that the distance from the pitcher's plate to home base is 60 feet, 6 inches or a little over 20 yards. The catcher crouches a little behind the plate, but not two yards behind the plate, so a pitch of 22 yards would be most unusual indeed.

I hope this sorts things out.

--- In amelyachtowners@..., Ian & Judy Jenkins <ianjudyjenkins@...> wrote:


Richard, It has to be a Brit sport--noone in the colonies would be clever ( or devious) enough to invent a pitch of 22 yards. Cheers, Ian

To: amelyachtowners@...
From: richard03801@...
Date: Fri, 28 May 2010 09:45:03 +0000
Subject: Re: [Amel] AIS

Hey thanks you're the first to answer that question I've asked it many times to many a sailor including a good number of old salt Captains.
What's a pitch is that from American baseball or some foolish Brit so called sport with folks dressed for church and a fly swatter of a "bat".
All the best mates.
Richard SM 209
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

-----Original Message-----
From: Ian & Judy Jenkins <ianjudyjenkins@...>
Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 21:54:43
To: <amelyachtowners@...>
Subject: RE: [Amel] AIS


Hi Richard, One nautical mile is 2000 yards. One cable is a tenth of a nautical mile, 200 yards--or to put it into really simple terms , about nine cricket pitches..... Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Hamble

To: amelyachtowners@...
From: richard03801@...
Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 16:10:33 +0000
Subject: Re: [Amel] AIS

We fully agree the only way to get a ships response is to call the by have your position course and speed in front of you. Say your intentions clearly and slowly. In many miles at sea we've found this works well. In fact if you listen in on the bridge to bridge chatter they do the same.

We use a stand alone AIS that works well and give us a stable display and a single antenna with a spliter. Add an Icom digital VHF with a full feature mike at the helm as well as chart plotter radar. Now that we have AIS we can use the radar pause feature to save battery power. We cycle the radar every 20 min. Unless we have weather or targets on screen.
Does anyone know how far a cable is????

Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

-----Original Message-----
From: "rossirossix4" <rossidesigngroup@...>
Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 15:54:55
To: <amelyachtowners@...>
Subject: [Amel] AIS

I asked my daughter about MMSI calls to ships. She is a ships bridge officer--2nd officer--with extensive experience in the Strait of Malacca, Gibraltar and other crowded places. She says that they "never" get MMSI calls and that it would be "weird" to get one. (This, in my opinion doesn't mean it would be wrong to use it to "ring em up" in an urgent situation.

She did say that if you use the ships name it definitely gets their attention and they should respond to you. Also give your distance, your bearing from them (the reciprocal what you show for them), description of your boat and your intentions.

For those of us who need to replace our non-DSC fixed VHFs anyway, Standard Horizon has a relatively inexpensive ($315 street price) VHF--Matrix AIS GX2100 with a built in AIS receiver and screen. The available remote mic (maybe in your cockpit) also displays the AIS screen, which shows the normal AIS calculated data plus the name of the vessels, kind of handy at 3:00 am--see em, call em. http://www.standardhorizon.com/indexVS.cfm?cmd=DisplayProducts&ProdCatID=83&encProdID=F858763BB81027701141A0167DE2A031&DivisionID=3&isArchived=0

Standard Horizon sent me a picture of the remote mic displaying an AIS screen display--again, handy in the cockpit.

Class B transceiver also sounds good. They consume very little power (I covered this in a previous posting).

Bob
Brittany de la Mer




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


_________________________________________________________________
http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/195013117/direct/01/











------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


_________________________________________________________________
http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/197222280/direct/01/
Do you have a story that started on Hotmail? Tell us now

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[Amel] Re: Efector Anchor Chain Counter Sensor

Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Anne & John,

I have not experienced any difference in counting accuracy when changing directions.

I assume that you are running the chain out with the motor rather than slipping the clutch. If you slip the clutch the counter will not count.

If I had experienced what you have stated I would check the clearance from the magnetic button to the sensor. Should be it should be about 8mm to 10mm clearance. I would also check to see if there is any looseness on the windlass shaft caused by worn bearings. If all of this checks out, my guess is that it may be time to replace the sensor.

Hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387

--- In amelyachtowners@..., " Anne and John Hollamby" <annejohnholl@...> wrote:

Hello Bill,
My original chain counter is accurate whist raising the anchor but very inaccurate when running the chain out. I have always assumed that it could not count fast enough when the chain is running out. Have you any comments/advice please.

Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM 319

----- Original Message -----
From: Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2012 6:37 AM
Subject: [Amel] Re: Efector Anchor Chain Counter Sensor



George and Kim,

I uploaded the following to the same folder:
Chain Counter ORIGINAL IB5076.jpg >> this is the original sensor
Chain Counter Sensor IB5124.jpg >> this is the replacement used on BeBe

The above files are located at:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/2109031520/pic/list

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@> wrote:
>
> George and Kim,
>
> I can say it is similar, but I know that #IB5124 works, so that is what I recommend. Ask the the technician about IB5124.
>
> Bill
> BeBe, SM2k, #387
> Currently Cyprus
>
> --- In amelyachtowners@..., "Kimberly Cerillo" <kcvabeach@> wrote:
> >
> > Thanks for your response, This is the replacement that IFM sent me info on.
> >
> >
> >
> > Here is a data drawing sent by IMF
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/2109031520/pic/li
> > st located at the same site as the photo of the malfunctioning unit under
> > ANCHOR CHAIN COUNTER SENSOR.
> >
> > This is what the technician sent in regards to installing:
> >
> > "Here is the data sheet for the IB5162. The dotted line means it could be
> > in either position, right angle or straight. Our cable screws into the
> > connector on the back and you would have the same brown, blue, and black to
> > wire up"
> > Is this similar to what you have?
> >
> >
> >
> > Thanks again for your response,
> >
> >
> >
> > George and Kim Cerillo
> >
> > SM2K #353 Indecent
> >
> >
> >
> > From: amelyachtowners@...
> > [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Judy and Bill aboard
> > SV BeBe
> > Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2012 3:11 AM
> > To: amelyachtowners@...
> > Subject: [Amel] Re: Efector Anchor Chain Counter Sensor
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > The IFM Efector #IB5076 is no longer available from IFM. I purchased the
> > #IB5124 which is a two-wire replacement for $113USD delivered to Texas on
> > 8/2/10.
> >
> > PartNumber : IB5124 (which is a 2-wire sensor)
> > Description : IBE2020-FRKG
> >
> > IFM Efector Inc. info"at"ifmefector.com www.ifmefector.com
> > 782 Springdale Drive
> > Exton, PA 19341
> > 800-441-8246
> > Fax: 800-329-0436
> >
> > The original sensor has 3 wires - brown, black and blue. To install the 2
> > wire sensor:
> > 1. Terminate the brown - will not need it.
> > 2. Connect the blue (neg) wire to terminal labeled 2/4
> > 3. Connect the black (pos) wire to the terminal marked 1/3.
> > 4. Secure all with a couple of spots of silicone
> >
> > Note: the clearance between the magnetic "button" on the rope sheve and the
> > prox switch.. you can adjust the distance by pushing the prox switch out of
> > the case.. it should be about 10 to 12 mm
> > clearance
> >
> > Gary Silver sent me the following, which I found very helpful: "The sensor
> > is held in the housing with some RTV (silicone sealant). If you use two
> > metal picks working alternately thru the two holes on the side of the
> > housing to dig into the sensor and then pry slightly, you can to "walk" the
> > sensor forward a mm at a time until you can grasp it at the front. To place
> > the new one, put a small (very small) ring of RTV around the lip of the
> > sensor and insert it into the housing making certain of two things: 1 the
> > LED on the side of the sensor lines up with the sight hole so you can view
> > the operating status of the sensor & 2 the face of the sensor clears the
> > magnetic stub on the windlass hub."
> >
> > The sensor has worked perfectly since installation.
> >
> > Hope this helps.
> >
> > Bill
> > BeBe, SM2k, #387
> >
> > --- In amelyachtowners@...
> > <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "sy INDECENT" <gmcerillo@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Has anyone sourced the Efector Anchor Chain Counter Sensor part #1B5076
> > IB-3020-BNKG? I have a photo of the inoperative part posted
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/2109031520/pic/16
> > 3172518/view?picmode=
> > <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/2109031520/pic/1
> > 63172518/view?picmode=&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc>
> > &mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc
> > >
> > > under ANCHOR CHAIN COUNTER SENSOR. I contacted a US distributor for
> > Efector parts http://www.ifm.com/ifmus/web/mailstart.htm and was advised
> > they no longer made this part. The replacement part is a bit longer and has
> > a plug in adapter that you wire in with an additional cable that must be
> > purchased. From Efector US cost for part is $130 and cable $18USD. Has
> > anyone tried anything different? Does anyone know how long a ife the
> > replacement part has? Thanks so much,
> > >
> > > George and Kim
> > > SM2K #353 Indecent
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [Amel] Re: Efector Anchor Chain Counter Sensor

Kimberly Cerillo <kcvabeach@...>
 

Thanks so much Bill,



Will get back to you on response from IMF.



Kim

SM2k #353 Indecent



From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Judy and Bill aboard
SV BeBe
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2012 1:37 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel] Re: Efector Anchor Chain Counter Sensor





George and Kim,

I uploaded the following to the same folder:
Chain Counter ORIGINAL IB5076.jpg >> this is the original sensor
Chain Counter Sensor IB5124.jpg >> this is the replacement used on BeBe

The above files are located at:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/2109031520/pic/li
st

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387

--- In amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe"
<yahoogroups@...> wrote:

George and Kim,

I can say it is similar, but I know that #IB5124 works, so that is what I
recommend. Ask the the technician about IB5124.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Cyprus

--- In amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "Kimberly Cerillo" <kcvabeach@>
wrote:

Thanks for your response, This is the replacement that IFM sent me info
on.



Here is a data drawing sent by IMF
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/2109031520/pic/li
st located at the same site as the photo of the malfunctioning unit
under
ANCHOR CHAIN COUNTER SENSOR.

This is what the technician sent in regards to installing:

"Here is the data sheet for the IB5162. The dotted line means it could
be
in either position, right angle or straight. Our cable screws into the
connector on the back and you would have the same brown, blue, and black
to
wire up"
Is this similar to what you have?



Thanks again for your response,



George and Kim Cerillo

SM2K #353 Indecent



From: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Judy and Bill
aboard
SV BeBe
Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2012 3:11 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [Amel] Re: Efector Anchor Chain Counter Sensor





The IFM Efector #IB5076 is no longer available from IFM. I purchased the
#IB5124 which is a two-wire replacement for $113USD delivered to Texas
on
8/2/10.

PartNumber : IB5124 (which is a 2-wire sensor)
Description : IBE2020-FRKG

IFM Efector Inc. info"at"ifmefector.com www.ifmefector.com
782 Springdale Drive
Exton, PA 19341
800-441-8246
Fax: 800-329-0436

The original sensor has 3 wires - brown, black and blue. To install the
2
wire sensor:
1. Terminate the brown - will not need it.
2. Connect the blue (neg) wire to terminal labeled 2/4
3. Connect the black (pos) wire to the terminal marked 1/3.
4. Secure all with a couple of spots of silicone

Note: the clearance between the magnetic "button" on the rope sheve and
the
prox switch.. you can adjust the distance by pushing the prox switch out
of
the case.. it should be about 10 to 12 mm
clearance

Gary Silver sent me the following, which I found very helpful: "The
sensor
is held in the housing with some RTV (silicone sealant). If you use two
metal picks working alternately thru the two holes on the side of the
housing to dig into the sensor and then pry slightly, you can to "walk"
the
sensor forward a mm at a time until you can grasp it at the front. To
place
the new one, put a small (very small) ring of RTV around the lip of the
sensor and insert it into the housing making certain of two things: 1
the
LED on the side of the sensor lines up with the sight hole so you can
view
the operating status of the sensor & 2 the face of the sensor clears the
magnetic stub on the windlass hub."

The sensor has worked perfectly since installation.

Hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387

--- In amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "sy INDECENT" <gmcerillo@>
wrote:

Has anyone sourced the Efector Anchor Chain Counter Sensor part
#1B5076
IB-3020-BNKG? I have a photo of the inoperative part posted
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/2109031520/pic/16
3172518/view?picmode=
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/2109031520/pic/1
63172518/view?picmode=&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc>
&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc

under ANCHOR CHAIN COUNTER SENSOR. I contacted a US distributor for
Efector parts http://www.ifm.com/ifmus/web/mailstart.htm and was advised
they no longer made this part. The replacement part is a bit longer and
has
a plug in adapter that you wire in with an additional cable that must be
purchased. From Efector US cost for part is $130 and cable $18USD. Has
anyone tried anything different? Does anyone know how long a ife the
replacement part has? Thanks so much,

George and Kim
SM2K #353 Indecent
Re: [Amel] Re: Efector Anchor Chain Counter Sensor

Anne and John Hollamby <annejohnholl@...>
 

Hello Bill,
My original chain counter is accurate whist raising the anchor but very inaccurate when running the chain out. I have always assumed that it could not count fast enough when the chain is running out. Have you any comments/advice please.

Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM 319

----- Original Message -----
From: Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2012 6:37 AM
Subject: [Amel] Re: Efector Anchor Chain Counter Sensor



George and Kim,

I uploaded the following to the same folder:
Chain Counter ORIGINAL IB5076.jpg >> this is the original sensor
Chain Counter Sensor IB5124.jpg >> this is the replacement used on BeBe

The above files are located at:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/2109031520/pic/list

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@...> wrote:
>
> George and Kim,
>
> I can say it is similar, but I know that #IB5124 works, so that is what I recommend. Ask the the technician about IB5124.
>
> Bill
> BeBe, SM2k, #387
> Currently Cyprus
>
> --- In amelyachtowners@..., "Kimberly Cerillo" <kcvabeach@> wrote:
> >
> > Thanks for your response, This is the replacement that IFM sent me info on.
> >
> >
> >
> > Here is a data drawing sent by IMF
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/2109031520/pic/li
> > st located at the same site as the photo of the malfunctioning unit under
> > ANCHOR CHAIN COUNTER SENSOR.
> >
> > This is what the technician sent in regards to installing:
> >
> > "Here is the data sheet for the IB5162. The dotted line means it could be
> > in either position, right angle or straight. Our cable screws into the
> > connector on the back and you would have the same brown, blue, and black to
> > wire up"
> > Is this similar to what you have?
> >
> >
> >
> > Thanks again for your response,
> >
> >
> >
> > George and Kim Cerillo
> >
> > SM2K #353 Indecent
> >
> >
> >
> > From: amelyachtowners@...
> > [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Judy and Bill aboard
> > SV BeBe
> > Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2012 3:11 AM
> > To: amelyachtowners@...
> > Subject: [Amel] Re: Efector Anchor Chain Counter Sensor
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > The IFM Efector #IB5076 is no longer available from IFM. I purchased the
> > #IB5124 which is a two-wire replacement for $113USD delivered to Texas on
> > 8/2/10.
> >
> > PartNumber : IB5124 (which is a 2-wire sensor)
> > Description : IBE2020-FRKG
> >
> > IFM Efector Inc. info"at"ifmefector.com www.ifmefector.com
> > 782 Springdale Drive
> > Exton, PA 19341
> > 800-441-8246
> > Fax: 800-329-0436
> >
> > The original sensor has 3 wires - brown, black and blue. To install the 2
> > wire sensor:
> > 1. Terminate the brown - will not need it.
> > 2. Connect the blue (neg) wire to terminal labeled 2/4
> > 3. Connect the black (pos) wire to the terminal marked 1/3.
> > 4. Secure all with a couple of spots of silicone
> >
> > Note: the clearance between the magnetic "button" on the rope sheve and the
> > prox switch.. you can adjust the distance by pushing the prox switch out of
> > the case.. it should be about 10 to 12 mm
> > clearance
> >
> > Gary Silver sent me the following, which I found very helpful: "The sensor
> > is held in the housing with some RTV (silicone sealant). If you use two
> > metal picks working alternately thru the two holes on the side of the
> > housing to dig into the sensor and then pry slightly, you can to "walk" the
> > sensor forward a mm at a time until you can grasp it at the front. To place
> > the new one, put a small (very small) ring of RTV around the lip of the
> > sensor and insert it into the housing making certain of two things: 1 the
> > LED on the side of the sensor lines up with the sight hole so you can view
> > the operating status of the sensor & 2 the face of the sensor clears the
> > magnetic stub on the windlass hub."
> >
> > The sensor has worked perfectly since installation.
> >
> > Hope this helps.
> >
> > Bill
> > BeBe, SM2k, #387
> >
> > --- In amelyachtowners@...
> > <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "sy INDECENT" <gmcerillo@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Has anyone sourced the Efector Anchor Chain Counter Sensor part #1B5076
> > IB-3020-BNKG? I have a photo of the inoperative part posted
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/2109031520/pic/16
> > 3172518/view?picmode=
> > <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/2109031520/pic/1
> > 63172518/view?picmode=&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc>
> > &mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc
> > >
> > > under ANCHOR CHAIN COUNTER SENSOR. I contacted a US distributor for
> > Efector parts http://www.ifm.com/ifmus/web/mailstart.htm and was advised
> > they no longer made this part. The replacement part is a bit longer and has
> > a plug in adapter that you wire in with an additional cable that must be
> > purchased. From Efector US cost for part is $130 and cable $18USD. Has
> > anyone tried anything different? Does anyone know how long a ife the
> > replacement part has? Thanks so much,
> > >
> > > George and Kim
> > > SM2K #353 Indecent
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
[Amel] Re: Efector Anchor Chain Counter Sensor

Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
 

George and Kim,

I uploaded the following to the same folder:
Chain Counter ORIGINAL IB5076.jpg >> this is the original sensor
Chain Counter Sensor IB5124.jpg >> this is the replacement used on BeBe

The above files are located at:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/2109031520/pic/list

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@...> wrote:

George and Kim,

I can say it is similar, but I know that #IB5124 works, so that is what I recommend. Ask the the technician about IB5124.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Cyprus

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Kimberly Cerillo" <kcvabeach@> wrote:

Thanks for your response, This is the replacement that IFM sent me info on.



Here is a data drawing sent by IMF
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/2109031520/pic/li
st located at the same site as the photo of the malfunctioning unit under
ANCHOR CHAIN COUNTER SENSOR.

This is what the technician sent in regards to installing:

"Here is the data sheet for the IB5162. The dotted line means it could be
in either position, right angle or straight. Our cable screws into the
connector on the back and you would have the same brown, blue, and black to
wire up"
Is this similar to what you have?



Thanks again for your response,



George and Kim Cerillo

SM2K #353 Indecent



From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Judy and Bill aboard
SV BeBe
Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2012 3:11 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel] Re: Efector Anchor Chain Counter Sensor





The IFM Efector #IB5076 is no longer available from IFM. I purchased the
#IB5124 which is a two-wire replacement for $113USD delivered to Texas on
8/2/10.

PartNumber : IB5124 (which is a 2-wire sensor)
Description : IBE2020-FRKG

IFM Efector Inc. info"at"ifmefector.com www.ifmefector.com
782 Springdale Drive
Exton, PA 19341
800-441-8246
Fax: 800-329-0436

The original sensor has 3 wires - brown, black and blue. To install the 2
wire sensor:
1. Terminate the brown - will not need it.
2. Connect the blue (neg) wire to terminal labeled 2/4
3. Connect the black (pos) wire to the terminal marked 1/3.
4. Secure all with a couple of spots of silicone

Note: the clearance between the magnetic "button" on the rope sheve and the
prox switch.. you can adjust the distance by pushing the prox switch out of
the case.. it should be about 10 to 12 mm
clearance

Gary Silver sent me the following, which I found very helpful: "The sensor
is held in the housing with some RTV (silicone sealant). If you use two
metal picks working alternately thru the two holes on the side of the
housing to dig into the sensor and then pry slightly, you can to "walk" the
sensor forward a mm at a time until you can grasp it at the front. To place
the new one, put a small (very small) ring of RTV around the lip of the
sensor and insert it into the housing making certain of two things: 1 the
LED on the side of the sensor lines up with the sight hole so you can view
the operating status of the sensor & 2 the face of the sensor clears the
magnetic stub on the windlass hub."

The sensor has worked perfectly since installation.

Hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387

--- In amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "sy INDECENT" <gmcerillo@>
wrote:

Has anyone sourced the Efector Anchor Chain Counter Sensor part #1B5076
IB-3020-BNKG? I have a photo of the inoperative part posted
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/2109031520/pic/16
3172518/view?picmode=
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/2109031520/pic/1
63172518/view?picmode=&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc>
&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc

under ANCHOR CHAIN COUNTER SENSOR. I contacted a US distributor for
Efector parts http://www.ifm.com/ifmus/web/mailstart.htm and was advised
they no longer made this part. The replacement part is a bit longer and has
a plug in adapter that you wire in with an additional cable that must be
purchased. From Efector US cost for part is $130 and cable $18USD. Has
anyone tried anything different? Does anyone know how long a ife the
replacement part has? Thanks so much,

George and Kim
SM2K #353 Indecent
[Amel] Re: Efector Anchor Chain Counter Sensor

Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
 

George and Kim,

I can say it is similar, but I know that #IB5124 works, so that is what I recommend. Ask the the technician about IB5124.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Cyprus

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Kimberly Cerillo" <kcvabeach@...> wrote:

Thanks for your response, This is the replacement that IFM sent me info on.



Here is a data drawing sent by IMF
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/2109031520/pic/li
st located at the same site as the photo of the malfunctioning unit under
ANCHOR CHAIN COUNTER SENSOR.

This is what the technician sent in regards to installing:

"Here is the data sheet for the IB5162. The dotted line means it could be
in either position, right angle or straight. Our cable screws into the
connector on the back and you would have the same brown, blue, and black to
wire up"
Is this similar to what you have?



Thanks again for your response,



George and Kim Cerillo

SM2K #353 Indecent



From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Judy and Bill aboard
SV BeBe
Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2012 3:11 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel] Re: Efector Anchor Chain Counter Sensor





The IFM Efector #IB5076 is no longer available from IFM. I purchased the
#IB5124 which is a two-wire replacement for $113USD delivered to Texas on
8/2/10.

PartNumber : IB5124 (which is a 2-wire sensor)
Description : IBE2020-FRKG

IFM Efector Inc. info"at"ifmefector.com www.ifmefector.com
782 Springdale Drive
Exton, PA 19341
800-441-8246
Fax: 800-329-0436

The original sensor has 3 wires - brown, black and blue. To install the 2
wire sensor:
1. Terminate the brown - will not need it.
2. Connect the blue (neg) wire to terminal labeled 2/4
3. Connect the black (pos) wire to the terminal marked 1/3.
4. Secure all with a couple of spots of silicone

Note: the clearance between the magnetic "button" on the rope sheve and the
prox switch.. you can adjust the distance by pushing the prox switch out of
the case.. it should be about 10 to 12 mm
clearance

Gary Silver sent me the following, which I found very helpful: "The sensor
is held in the housing with some RTV (silicone sealant). If you use two
metal picks working alternately thru the two holes on the side of the
housing to dig into the sensor and then pry slightly, you can to "walk" the
sensor forward a mm at a time until you can grasp it at the front. To place
the new one, put a small (very small) ring of RTV around the lip of the
sensor and insert it into the housing making certain of two things: 1 the
LED on the side of the sensor lines up with the sight hole so you can view
the operating status of the sensor & 2 the face of the sensor clears the
magnetic stub on the windlass hub."

The sensor has worked perfectly since installation.

Hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387

--- In amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "sy INDECENT" <gmcerillo@>
wrote:

Has anyone sourced the Efector Anchor Chain Counter Sensor part #1B5076
IB-3020-BNKG? I have a photo of the inoperative part posted
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/2109031520/pic/16
3172518/view?picmode=
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/2109031520/pic/1
63172518/view?picmode=&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc>
&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc

under ANCHOR CHAIN COUNTER SENSOR. I contacted a US distributor for
Efector parts http://www.ifm.com/ifmus/web/mailstart.htm and was advised
they no longer made this part. The replacement part is a bit longer and has
a plug in adapter that you wire in with an additional cable that must be
purchased. From Efector US cost for part is $130 and cable $18USD. Has
anyone tried anything different? Does anyone know how long a ife the
replacement part has? Thanks so much,

George and Kim
SM2K #353 Indecent
Re: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K

eric <kimberlite@...>
 

Gary,

The valve is available from McMaster Carr. I know west has them also or can
special order them as I used them in my tartan they were brass and came from
Groco. I just Googled bspp ball valves and there were pages of them .
Grainger also carries them.



http://www.mcmaster.com/#stainless-steel-ball-valves/=gjwobb



The through hulls that I used had a small fin on opposite sides of the
inside of the thru hulls and the tool locked onto these.
I do not know if it exists on the Amels.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite



_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2012 1:35 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K





Hi Eric:

I just searched the West Marine web site and couldn't find that they had any
parallel thread valves at all. Every valve on their web site was NPT
(National Pipe Thread aka tapered).

As for the tool to prevent the through hull fitting from turning, did it
just go into the fitting and then expand somehow to provide purchase (grip)
or is there something on the fitting that it locked into?

Gary

--- In amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , eric <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Gary,

How does this thread compare to the straight thread (parallel) sold by
west
marine?

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2012 11:19 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K







Bon Jour Yves:

Did you succeed in replacing your holding tank outlet valves? I am in St.
Martin and was able to purchase 1 1/4 inch Ball valves with BSPP (British
Standard Parallel Pipe Thread) (described as European Threads) made from
Marine Brass (the silver colored stuff) with teflon seals, stainless steel
ball and aluminum handles for $US 43.50(Budget Marine PN SUA/408-1-1/4 ) .
I
also found an Ace Hardware store (mega store really) just up the hill from
Budget Marine on Simpson Bay Lagoon) where I purchased some pipe wrenches
etc.

see this link

http://www.budgetmarine.com/catalog/Plumbing/Valves/Non-tapered+Ball+Valves/
Marine+Brass+Ball+Valves/product.aspx#SUA/408-1-1/4

I have yet to install them. I am going to attempt to install the one on
the
forward head while in the water when I get back to the boat in a couple of
months. I will post about how it goes.

BSPP (straight pipe threads) are dependent on a sealant to achieve a seal.
They are generally also easier to disassemble as compared to NPT (National
Pipe Threads) which are tapered and depend upon a friction interference
fit
to achieve a seal. A good quality non- hardening sealant is best used for
straight pipe threads as opposed to using teflon tape.

I plan on using an adjustable packing wrench to provide counter torque on
the flats of the wrenchings of the "standpipe" thru hull pipe as I attempt
to remove the valve. The last thing I want to do is break off the thru
hull
pipe or loosen it in its bedding compound or fiberglass.

I will post my experience when it occurs. In the meantime if you have
already accomplished this repair and can provide any additional
information
please advise.

Sincerely,

Gary Silver
Amel SM 2000 Hull # 335
lying Sint Maarten - Oyster Pond Marina

--- In amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "BM2"<bluemarinemartin@>
wrote:

Bonjour ,

Thank you for this detailed information. My valves have never been
changed.

Since I managed to re-open it, I will wait to be on the hard to do the
job
according to your operating procedure.

Yves

BM2
bluemarinemartin@
2010-04-17
----- Message reçu -----
De : rossirossix4
À : amelyachtowners
Date : 2010-04-14, 17:40:02
Sujet : Re: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K


Hi Yves,

Usually, if the ball valve looks like it is glassed over, it has not yet
been replaced. If you look closely you should see that the material
overlapping the valve is a relatively thin amount of gel coat and paint.
There is a through hull fitting (not a seacock?), then a short stand pipe
and the ball valve screws onto the top of this. It is my impression
(having
replaced 3 different valves) that while the stand pipe is very securely
glassed in the gel coat/paint will not prevent you from unscrewing the
ball
valve.

I don't think anyone will tell you to unscrew it in the water because it
is always safer to do it on the hard (and do all of them at once, and do
them preventatively while you are on the hard). However, I can say that I
would do it if it was not convenient to haul out. I would however fit a
plug
in the outlet while conducting the operation or be ready to plug from the
dingy in case Murphey's law comes into effect.

In an earlier posting someone talks about using what I will call a
"string
saw"--they sell them for cutting PVC pipe--to score the gel coat before
rotating the valve out. I did this but didn't make that much progress and
worried about wearing the threads on the stand pipe.

I used a pipe wrench with a long 16" handle (or put a pipe on the handle
of a shorter pipe wrench) and it eased off using considerable rotational
force.

On reassembly you can use many winds of teflon tape or something like
Life-Calk Sealant on the threads of the stand pipe. Either one will help
establish a leak proof seal and aid in removal next time you replace one.

I'm not on my boat right now but I thought the valve was bonded to the
boats ground. If you use a Marelon plastic ball valve you would need to
bond
the stand pipe and I think this would be difficult to do because there is
not a gap between the ball valve and the pipe once you screw it on. So
that's it.

Excuse this digression. I've got to tell this related story! On my boat
the raw water intake to the engine is set up the same way. I was with my
mechanic (who had not had previous experience with Amels but had
familiarized himself with mine). I complained that it looked like Amel had
glassed in the ball valve and not considered problems with replacement. At
that point he became quite serious and even a bit emotional saying
something
to the effect of "Look at this boat and the way everything is done! Do you
REALLY think that they would do that? No...no...no" and he went on a bit
brow beating me. He was right, the valve eased right off with a fair
amount
of torque from the long pipe wrench. Like many Amel owners, I don't often
need to have professionals do work for me, but when they do they make
comments like "Its good to see a boat where they did things right" or
"That's a very well thought out idea". I've even had them bring over other
boat owners to show them how something should have been done.

Bob
Brittany de la Mer 1993 Santorin #86




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K

Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

Gary when you look for those valves look for British pipe threads. You'll have more success

Regards

Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

On Mar 6, 2012, at 12:00, eric <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Gary,

How does this thread compare to the straight thread (parallel) sold by west
marine?

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2012 11:19 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K

Bon Jour Yves:

Did you succeed in replacing your holding tank outlet valves? I am in St.
Martin and was able to purchase 1 1/4 inch Ball valves with BSPP (British
Standard Parallel Pipe Thread) (described as European Threads) made from
Marine Brass (the silver colored stuff) with teflon seals, stainless steel
ball and aluminum handles for $US 43.50(Budget Marine PN SUA/408-1-1/4 ) . I
also found an Ace Hardware store (mega store really) just up the hill from
Budget Marine on Simpson Bay Lagoon) where I purchased some pipe wrenches
etc.

see this link

http://www.budgetmarine.com/catalog/Plumbing/Valves/Non-tapered+Ball+Valves/
Marine+Brass+Ball+Valves/product.aspx#SUA/408-1-1/4

I have yet to install them. I am going to attempt to install the one on the
forward head while in the water when I get back to the boat in a couple of
months. I will post about how it goes.

BSPP (straight pipe threads) are dependent on a sealant to achieve a seal.
They are generally also easier to disassemble as compared to NPT (National
Pipe Threads) which are tapered and depend upon a friction interference fit
to achieve a seal. A good quality non- hardening sealant is best used for
straight pipe threads as opposed to using teflon tape.

I plan on using an adjustable packing wrench to provide counter torque on
the flats of the wrenchings of the "standpipe" thru hull pipe as I attempt
to remove the valve. The last thing I want to do is break off the thru hull
pipe or loosen it in its bedding compound or fiberglass.

I will post my experience when it occurs. In the meantime if you have
already accomplished this repair and can provide any additional information
please advise.

Sincerely,

Gary Silver
Amel SM 2000 Hull # 335
lying Sint Maarten - Oyster Pond Marina

--- In amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "BM2"<bluemarinemartin@...>
wrote:

Bonjour ,

Thank you for this detailed information. My valves have never been
changed.

Since I managed to re-open it, I will wait to be on the hard to do the job
according to your operating procedure.

Yves

BM2
bluemarinemartin@...
2010-04-17
----- Message reçu -----
De : rossirossix4
À : amelyachtowners
Date : 2010-04-14, 17:40:02
Sujet : Re: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K


Hi Yves,

Usually, if the ball valve looks like it is glassed over, it has not yet
been replaced. If you look closely you should see that the material
overlapping the valve is a relatively thin amount of gel coat and paint.
There is a through hull fitting (not a seacock?), then a short stand pipe
and the ball valve screws onto the top of this. It is my impression (having
replaced 3 different valves) that while the stand pipe is very securely
glassed in the gel coat/paint will not prevent you from unscrewing the ball
valve.

I don't think anyone will tell you to unscrew it in the water because it
is always safer to do it on the hard (and do all of them at once, and do
them preventatively while you are on the hard). However, I can say that I
would do it if it was not convenient to haul out. I would however fit a plug
in the outlet while conducting the operation or be ready to plug from the
dingy in case Murphey's law comes into effect.

In an earlier posting someone talks about using what I will call a "string
saw"--they sell them for cutting PVC pipe--to score the gel coat before
rotating the valve out. I did this but didn't make that much progress and
worried about wearing the threads on the stand pipe.

I used a pipe wrench with a long 16" handle (or put a pipe on the handle
of a shorter pipe wrench) and it eased off using considerable rotational
force.

On reassembly you can use many winds of teflon tape or something like
Life-Calk Sealant on the threads of the stand pipe. Either one will help
establish a leak proof seal and aid in removal next time you replace one.

I'm not on my boat right now but I thought the valve was bonded to the
boats ground. If you use a Marelon plastic ball valve you would need to bond
the stand pipe and I think this would be difficult to do because there is
not a gap between the ball valve and the pipe once you screw it on. So
that's it.

Excuse this digression. I've got to tell this related story! On my boat
the raw water intake to the engine is set up the same way. I was with my
mechanic (who had not had previous experience with Amels but had
familiarized himself with mine). I complained that it looked like Amel had
glassed in the ball valve and not considered problems with replacement. At
that point he became quite serious and even a bit emotional saying something
to the effect of "Look at this boat and the way everything is done! Do you
REALLY think that they would do that? No...no...no" and he went on a bit
brow beating me. He was right, the valve eased right off with a fair amount
of torque from the long pipe wrench. Like many Amel owners, I don't often
need to have professionals do work for me, but when they do they make
comments like "Its good to see a boat where they did things right" or
"That's a very well thought out idea". I've even had them bring over other
boat owners to show them how something should have been done.

Bob
Brittany de la Mer 1993 Santorin #86
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [Amel] Re: Efector Anchor Chain Counter Sensor

Kimberly Cerillo <kcvabeach@...>
 

Thanks for your response, This is the replacement that IFM sent me info on.



Here is a data drawing sent by IMF
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/2109031520/pic/li
st located at the same site as the photo of the malfunctioning unit under
ANCHOR CHAIN COUNTER SENSOR.

This is what the technician sent in regards to installing:

"Here is the data sheet for the IB5162. The dotted line means it could be
in either position, right angle or straight. Our cable screws into the
connector on the back and you would have the same brown, blue, and black to
wire up"
Is this similar to what you have?



Thanks again for your response,



George and Kim Cerillo

SM2K #353 Indecent



From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Judy and Bill aboard
SV BeBe
Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2012 3:11 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel] Re: Efector Anchor Chain Counter Sensor





The IFM Efector #IB5076 is no longer available from IFM. I purchased the
#IB5124 which is a two-wire replacement for $113USD delivered to Texas on
8/2/10.

PartNumber : IB5124 (which is a 2-wire sensor)
Description : IBE2020-FRKG

IFM Efector Inc. info"at"ifmefector.com www.ifmefector.com
782 Springdale Drive
Exton, PA 19341
800-441-8246
Fax: 800-329-0436

The original sensor has 3 wires - brown, black and blue. To install the 2
wire sensor:
1. Terminate the brown - will not need it.
2. Connect the blue (neg) wire to terminal labeled 2/4
3. Connect the black (pos) wire to the terminal marked 1/3.
4. Secure all with a couple of spots of silicone

Note: the clearance between the magnetic "button" on the rope sheve and the
prox switch.. you can adjust the distance by pushing the prox switch out of
the case.. it should be about 10 to 12 mm
clearance

Gary Silver sent me the following, which I found very helpful: "The sensor
is held in the housing with some RTV (silicone sealant). If you use two
metal picks working alternately thru the two holes on the side of the
housing to dig into the sensor and then pry slightly, you can to "walk" the
sensor forward a mm at a time until you can grasp it at the front. To place
the new one, put a small (very small) ring of RTV around the lip of the
sensor and insert it into the housing making certain of two things: 1 the
LED on the side of the sensor lines up with the sight hole so you can view
the operating status of the sensor & 2 the face of the sensor clears the
magnetic stub on the windlass hub."

The sensor has worked perfectly since installation.

Hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387

--- In amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "sy INDECENT" <gmcerillo@...>
wrote:

Has anyone sourced the Efector Anchor Chain Counter Sensor part #1B5076
IB-3020-BNKG? I have a photo of the inoperative part posted
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/2109031520/pic/16
3172518/view?picmode=
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/2109031520/pic/1
63172518/view?picmode=&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc>
&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc

under ANCHOR CHAIN COUNTER SENSOR. I contacted a US distributor for
Efector parts http://www.ifm.com/ifmus/web/mailstart.htm and was advised
they no longer made this part. The replacement part is a bit longer and has
a plug in adapter that you wire in with an additional cable that must be
purchased. From Efector US cost for part is $130 and cable $18USD. Has
anyone tried anything different? Does anyone know how long a ife the
replacement part has? Thanks so much,

George and Kim
SM2K #353 Indecent
EOS Maramu 46 is for sale

maramu_eos <eos.girard@...>
 

After more than 2 years sailing from UK to the Caribbean, we have decided to put our beloved EOS for sale. Please find below a short summary. The website is under construction at www.amel-maramu.com and a pdf document is available.
Kind regards
jef

For sale blue-water ketch AMEL MARAMU, 14m, 1988 one of the last Maramu, centre cockpit, 1000l water, 485l. diesel, engine 2006 62hp 1000h, sleeps 8, owners cabin large dbl bed, elec furling sails, bowthruster, elec windlass, heating and central ventilation, hot water, 2 fridges, leather saloon seats, tender Bombard+2.3hp Honda. Numerous refits since 2006 (headlining, seating, mattresses, engine, pipes…) additions for long-term cruising 2010 (solar panels 300W, 2 elec alternators, 1600W inverter, rear platform, S/S davits and frame, SSB radio, Navtex, watermaker Seafresh 70l/h, Hdmi TV/DVD…) 2 autopilots incl. 1 Raymarine SPX30 2011, B&G navigation systems, 2 GPS, 2 VHF, Radar. Exhaustive eqpt, with Amel quality, comfort and solidity. Vgc, ready to depart. 128k€ VAT paid. Optional extras Zodiac RIB 3.40+15hp Tohatsu, Bauer diving compressor, 12l cylinders, SDMO 2000W generator, Inmarsat satphone. Vis FWI til May 2012, then S.France. Contact amel.maramu@...
Re: [Amel] maramu1989 water tank cleaning and maintenance

Dave_Benjamin
 

On the Maramu's after hull #30 something the tables are easy to remove to gain access to the inspection ports. They have fasteners visible just outboard of the table base. Not so on hull #29. Our table has defied all attempts at removal, possibly due to swollen wood. Next on the agenda is using a small hydraulic jack to persuade it to come out. If that doesn't work we'll be disassembling it in place and cutting holes in the base to access the ports. This is the only real design flaw we've noted thus far on the boat and it was remedied on subsequent hulls.

--- In amelyachtowners@..., Chris Smither <yachtakwaaba@...> wrote:

Ross,
    I have found that a power wash, pump out, (the water pump is not very good at getting the last few inches out, so I rigged up a submersible 12V pump, which I lowered using the outlet hose), and then a treatment using "Milton" - the sterilising tablets used for babies bottles, cured the problem.
   In fact, part of my shutdown checks now involve running the water down to about 50-70 L and then adding a couple of Milton tablets which I leave in the water, whilst away.

Mike 
SN027


________________________________
From: "rossny@..." <rossny@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Monday, March 5, 2012 10:52 PM
Subject: [Amel] maramu1989 water tank cleaning and maintenance


 
Hi all.
Just finished a plumbing refit (w.pump,w.heater,pex tubing and sea tech fittings). Oh except for the last few feet of copper to the heads (I would need X-ray eyes and a gymnast or a monkey to get in under there! ?!!
Before pumping old unknown quality water into my new pump,heater,and tubing . I opened the forward water tank cover located under the galley sink. The walls have many black /brown splotches (bacteria colonys?) as do thebottom.
Questions : will a power washing with a bilge pump to remove the wash water then a bleach treatment do the job OR should I paint the 25 year old tanks?
Looks like the 4? other tanks are connected at the bottom (have not inspected yet) . Is there anything I should know or be prepared for?
Any tricks for not dropping the covers into the tanks?
Thanks in advance for your experienced replies. Ross




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