Date   

Re: Fresh water pump pressure problem

Martin <yachtcaduceus@...>
 

Thank you for all of the very helpful replies to my problem. The problem was correctly identified and once I realised that the boss on the non visble end of the accumulator was in fact a cap over the schrader valve and not part of the pressing correcting the problem was a matter of a few minutes. The bicycle track pump that we carry for our folding cycles has now found another vital role.

For information, the 54 has a single accumulator tank mounted under the water pump. The shrader valve is on the forward end of the tank under a stainless steel screw off cover. The pressure marked on the tank for maximum re-inflation is 1.5 bar, about 22psi.

For the record the Thiery in the after sales department at Amel responded immediately to my request for how to find the valve with three very clear photographs.

Martin Bevan
Caduceus
Amel 54 #56
Fort Lauderdale, Florida


Re: [Amel] Re: SM #347 safe

Eric Freedman
 

I just had to remove the door from mine see the photos. I am having a new
one fabricated.

What did you do to the safe that destroyed it?

It does not fit through the hole in the cabinets,. Therefore, the cabinets
also have to be redone.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Monday, March 12, 2012 8:13 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Re: SM #347 safe






How destroyed are we talking about? If you just need the keypad or other
internal locking parts/circuit board etc those are available for
replacement. If the entire door needs to be replaced or something like that
then you would have to check with the manufacturer at the email I have
previously posted.. Check my posts earlier on this forum by searching for
Gary S Silver or amelliahona.

Gary SIlver
s/v Liahona

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "JOHN W." <jfolino901@...>
wrote:

I have a Hartmann Paderborn safe which I destroyed. Model is Viro. Does
anyone have a source for a replacement safe?


Re: Fresh water pump pressure problem

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Bill:

As usual, you are spot on regarding your diagnosis and trouble shooting tips you provided. The Woodruff key on my Amel supplied centrifugal fresh water pump impeller likewise failed very early on. I was amazed that it was a mild steel key. I fabricated several stainless steel Woodruff keys after having failed to be able to obtain such from suppliers. I purchased stainless round stock of the proper diameter (I don't recall exactly but it might have been 3/8th inch (measure to be sure), cut off coins or waffers of the stock and then ground a flat on one side to make the Woodruff keys. Finally I lightly dressed the sides to achieve the proper thickness for a snug fit. That was 9 years ago and I have only ever used the original one I put in.

All the best,

Gary Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000 # 335


Bill Wrote:

" ....... WATER PUMP IMPELLER:

There is one other issue with the fresh water pump. The metal impeller in the pump is secured with a key. The key on BeBe was not stainless steel and failed when BeBe was less than 2 years old. Failure of the key will allow the impeller to spin on the shaft and cause the system to have difficulty reaching pressure. From your description, I do not believe that you have a key problem.

Hope this helps you.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Cyprus"


Re: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Bonjour Yves & Marie-Christine:

I understood your post completely. Your English is excellent. Thanks for the detailed post, your information will be most valuable and reassuring.

Sincerely,

Gary Silver
s/v Liahona

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "BM2"<bluemarinemartin@...> wrote:

Bonjour Gary,

I waited until I was on the hard to do the replacement because I was a bit afraid of difficulties, which could arise.

I did it about 4/5 months ago and I am presently not on the boat; Nevertheless, I will try to be as precise as possible.

As a matter of facts, John and Bob were right; although it was not easy because of the lack of space, it was without any trouble; the job can be done totally from inside. Since the valve is above the waterline, it could even be done the boat being in the water; no need to seize anything from outside.
I did it without removing the bowl, but that could be a helping option, not too difficult (I did it once to change the broken base).

The first difficulty is to cut the polyester, which comes partly above the valve, overlapping the nut on the valve (in my case it was rather a lot). Be careful not to damage the nut if you use an electric tool like a file.

This done you have to remove the exhaust hose between the valve and the holding tank. Not easy because of the shelf (it prevents from bending the hose). Since there is a lot of valve connection inside, I eventually had to reduce a bit the length of the hose ,...but do not cut too much (~1 cm.). In case of too much trouble, the hose being stiff with the years, I contemplated to cut it completely and put a new one. You can also try heat.
With a lot of sweat, and swear, I succeeded.

Beyond this point it is easy: just unscrew the valve with a small handled spanner (really not much space!!); mine came out quite nicely/smoothly with just a light hammer shock/knock.

I hope my English is understandable and my explanation clear enough…otherwise do not hesitate to come back to me.

Good work

Sincerely,


Marie-Christine & Yves


Re: SM #347 safe

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

How destroyed are we talking about? If you just need the keypad or other internal locking parts/circuit board etc those are available for replacement. If the entire door needs to be replaced or something like that then you would have to check with the manufacturer at the email I have previously posted.. Check my posts earlier on this forum by searching for Gary S Silver or amelliahona.

Gary SIlver
s/v Liahona

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "JOHN W." <jfolino901@...> wrote:

I have a Hartmann Paderborn safe which I destroyed. Model is Viro. Does anyone have a source for a replacement safe?


SM #347 safe

JOHN W. <jfolino901@...>
 

I have a Hartmann Paderborn safe which I destroyed. Model is Viro. Does anyone have a source for a replacement safe?


Re: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K

BM2 <bluemarinemartin@...>
 

Bonjour Gary,

I waited until I was on the hard to do the replacement because I was a bit afraid of difficulties, which could arise.

I did it about 4/5 months ago and I am presently not on the boat; Nevertheless, I will try to be as precise as possible.

As a matter of facts, John and Bob were right; although it was not easy because of the lack of space, it was without any trouble; the job can be done totally from inside. Since the valve is above the waterline, it could even be done the boat being in the water; no need to seize anything from outside.
I did it without removing the bowl, but that could be a helping option, not too difficult (I did it once to change the broken base).

The first difficulty is to cut the polyester, which comes partly above the valve, overlapping the nut on the valve (in my case it was rather a lot). Be careful not to damage the nut if you use an electric tool like a file.

This done you have to remove the exhaust hose between the valve and the holding tank. Not easy because of the shelf (it prevents from bending the hose). Since there is a lot of valve connection inside, I eventually had to reduce a bit the length of the hose ,...but do not cut too much (~1 cm.). In case of too much trouble, the hose being stiff with the years, I contemplated to cut it completely and put a new one. You can also try heat.
With a lot of sweat, and swear, I succeeded.

Beyond this point it is easy: just unscrew the valve with a small handled spanner (really not much space!!); mine came out quite nicely/smoothly with just a light hammer shock/knock.

I hope my English is understandable and my explanation clear enough…otherwise do not hesitate to come back to me.

Good work

Sincerely,


Marie-Christine & Yves



PS : After a 10 years round the world sailing, Blue Marine (SM2K # 311) is now for sale.
Very well maintained then in very good condition. Lying south of France.


BM2,
bluemarinemartin@gmail.com
2012-03-11

----- Message reçu -----
De : amelliahona
À : amelyachtowners
Date : 2012-03-06, 17:18:47
Sujet : Re: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K


Bon Jour Yves:

Did you succeed in replacing your holding tank outlet valves? I am in St. Martin and was able to purchase 1 1/4 inch Ball valves with BSPP (British Standard Parallel Pipe Thread) (described as European Threads) made from Marine Brass (the silver colored stuff) with teflon seals, stainless steel ball and aluminum handles for $US 43.50(Budget Marine PN SUA/408-1-1/4 ) . I also found an Ace Hardware store (mega store really) just up the hill from Budget Marine on Simpson Bay Lagoon) where I purchased some pipe wrenches etc.

see this link

http://www.budgetmarine.com/catalog/Plumbing/Valves/Non-tapered+Ball+Valves/Marine+Brass+Ball+Valves/product.aspx#SUA/408-1-1/4

I have yet to install them. I am going to attempt to install the one on the forward head while in the water when I get back to the boat in a couple of months. I will post about how it goes.

BSPP (straight pipe threads) are dependent on a sealant to achieve a seal. They are generally also easier to disassemble as compared to NPT (National Pipe Threads) which are tapered and depend upon a friction interference fit to achieve a seal. A good quality non- hardening sealant is best used for straight pipe threads as opposed to using teflon tape.

I plan on using an adjustable packing wrench to provide counter torque on the flats of the wrenchings of the "standpipe" thru hull pipe as I attempt to remove the valve. The last thing I want to do is break off the thru hull pipe or loosen it in its bedding compound or fiberglass.

I will post my experience when it occurs. In the meantime if you have already accomplished this repair and can provide any additional information please advise.

Sincerely,

Gary Silver
Amel SM 2000 Hull # 335
lying Sint Maarten - Oyster Pond Marina




--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "BM2"<bluemarinemartin@...> wrote:

Bonjour ,

Thank you for this detailed information. My valves have never been changed.

Since I managed to re-open it, I will wait to be on the hard to do the job according to your operating procedure.

Yves

BM2
bluemarinemartin@...
2010-04-17
----- Message reçu -----
De : rossirossix4
À : amelyachtowners
Date : 2010-04-14, 17:40:02
Sujet : Re: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K


Hi Yves,

Usually, if the ball valve looks like it is glassed over, it has not yet been replaced. If you look closely you should see that the material overlapping the valve is a relatively thin amount of gel coat and paint. There is a through hull fitting (not a seacock?), then a short stand pipe and the ball valve screws onto the top of this. It is my impression (having replaced 3 different valves) that while the stand pipe is very securely glassed in the gel coat/paint will not prevent you from unscrewing the ball valve.

I don't think anyone will tell you to unscrew it in the water because it is always safer to do it on the hard (and do all of them at once, and do them preventatively while you are on the hard). However, I can say that I would do it if it was not convenient to haul out. I would however fit a plug in the outlet while conducting the operation or be ready to plug from the dingy in case Murphey's law comes into effect.

In an earlier posting someone talks about using what I will call a "string saw"--they sell them for cutting PVC pipe--to score the gel coat before rotating the valve out. I did this but didn't make that much progress and worried about wearing the threads on the stand pipe.

I used a pipe wrench with a long 16" handle (or put a pipe on the handle of a shorter pipe wrench) and it eased off using considerable rotational force.

On reassembly you can use many winds of teflon tape or something like Life-Calk Sealant on the threads of the stand pipe. Either one will help establish a leak proof seal and aid in removal next time you replace one.

I'm not on my boat right now but I thought the valve was bonded to the boats ground. If you use a Marelon plastic ball valve you would need to bond the stand pipe and I think this would be difficult to do because there is not a gap between the ball valve and the pipe once you screw it on. So that's it.

Excuse this digression. I've got to tell this related story! On my boat the raw water intake to the engine is set up the same way. I was with my mechanic (who had not had previous experience with Amels but had familiarized himself with mine). I complained that it looked like Amel had glassed in the ball valve and not considered problems with replacement. At that point he became quite serious and even a bit emotional saying something to the effect of "Look at this boat and the way everything is done! Do you REALLY think that they would do that? No...no...no" and he went on a bit brow beating me. He was right, the valve eased right off with a fair amount of torque from the long pipe wrench. Like many Amel owners, I don't often need to have professionals do work for me, but when they do they make comments like "Its good to see a boat where they did things right" or "That's a very well thought out idea". I've even had them bring over other boat owners to show them how something should have been done.

Bob
Brittany de la Mer 1993 Santorin #86



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Fresh water pump pressure problem

Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Martin,

From your description, I would bet that you have either one or both of the accumulators in failure or a pressure switch failure. There are a number of things that could be the source of your problem. Assuming that the 54 is not much different than the SM2k:

ACCUMULATOR TANKS: You will have 2 accumulator tanks. One is on top of the fresh water pump and one will be near the hot water heater. BeBe is a 2003 SM and I have replaced both of the accumulator tanks. BTW, when you replace the one near the hot water heater, you might want to consider a larger volume tank as a larger one will likely fit...I doubled the size and purchased it at a well-water-pump store. I told them that I believed the fresh water system to be about 40psi and they set the air pressure inside the accumulator for that system pressure...they referenced a table and found the tank pressure for a 40psi system pressure. Normally when an accumulator tank fails, the rubber bladder which separates the air compartment from the water compartment fails. If there is little or no pressure when you press the air needle valve, rest assured that you need to replace the accumulator tank. BTW, we operated fine for four months with a non-functioning accumulator on the pump and an oversized tank near the hot water heater until we received the water pump accumulator from Amel. I would not recommend taking the accumulator located near the hot water heater out of the system because it serves as not only an accumulator tank for the system, but also handles the water expansion when the tank water is heated by the engine or electricity.

PRESSURE SWITCH:
The pressure switch is located on the fresh water pump. It is either made by "Square D," or you can use "Square D" for a replacement. Adjusting the two mechanical spring adjustments takes lots of trial and error...follow the instructions that come with the switch, and remember that you cannot adjust the 2nd one until you have the first one set...these need to be adjusted in order. We purchased a SQUARE D 20/40 WELL PUMP WATER PRESSURE SWITCH on Ebay for $20USD...worked perfectly after several attempts at adjusting. If you cannot find a replacement switch, you can most likely clean the switch you have and have it working again. You will have to remove the pump accumulator tank to remove the switch. Take care in labeling the wires when you remove the pressure switch. The electric switches inside the pressure switch are susceptible to corrosion...coat them with CorrosionX. Also check the water path for pressurized water to the diaphragm on the switch...it is probably clogged and can be cleaned.

WATER PUMP IMPELLER:
There is one other issue with the fresh water pump. The metal impeller in the pump is secured with a key. The key on BeBe was not stainless steel and failed when BeBe was less than 2 years old. Failure of the key will allow the impeller to spin on the shaft and cause the system to have difficulty reaching pressure. From your description, I do not believe that you have a key problem.

Hope this helps you.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Cyprus

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Martin" <yachtcaduceus@...> wrote:

After 5 years of faultless service the fresh water pump on our Amel 54 #56 has decided to misbehave; and that just as we are about to leave Fort Lauderdale after weeks spent sorting out other issues. An anyone advise where the problem may be.

The pressure in the water system stays constant at the usual level and is maintained at that level over a period of time, i.e. there are no apparent leaks. When a faucet is opened the pump starts to cut in and out as if working on demand, instead of drawing on the receiver until the pressure drops and then recharging the receiver. I would assume that it is the pressure switch but would be grateful to know if anyone else has seen this problem.

If it is the pressure switch does anyoner know what a suitable replacement sourceable in the USA might be.

Regards,
Martin Bevan
Caduceus 54 #56
Fort Lauderdale, Florida


FWPump

svcallisto369
 

Martin
There is a stainless fitting on the forward aspect of the pump accumulator. Remove this and it will expose a Schrade valve just like on a bike or car tire. I use a bicycle pump and give it about 60 strokes. Turn off the pump, open a faucet and then close it and start pumping to about 15 psi. Then turn on the pump. Should do the trick, provided there is no leak. This is a common problem with this pump.



Michael Last
Callisto Amel 54. 068
Svcallisto.blogspot.com


Re: [Amel] Re: Securing flooring hatches

Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

Jose old friend, first think about the joy of crossing rather then worry. Second work with Southbound 2 he will keep you in fair winds. And rather then heading east from beantown go to Bermuda restock rest then head for Horta stay well below 40 deg. You'll then be out of most of the bad weather. North of 40 well that higher risk. Been there and did not much like it.
Be sure to carry extra fuel we normally bring 10 5 or 6 gallon yellow jugs. Give me a call regarding stocking up. Good luck.

Regards still in Maryland For Sale SM 209

Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

On Mar 11, 2012, at 10:52, "Jose" <jvenegas@alum.mit.edu> wrote:

Sorry guys, after posting it I realize that there was a long series of posts about this topic. So, no need to reply for the locks but any other tips are still appreciated.

Thanks

Jose and Magnolia
Ipanema SM2K 278
In Boston awaiting a June 15th departure.

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Jose" <jvenegas@...> wrote:

We are preparing Ipanema for a trans Atlantic crossing and it is recommended that we secure the flooring hatches. I remember that the newer versions of the SM2000 have some sort of Hatch Latch securing the flooring hatches.
Can somebody kindly show me what they look like and how they are installed?
Has anybody secured the v-berth and aft-cabin beads to prevent their opening in case of a roll?
Any other thoughts or tips would be greatly appreciated.



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Re: [Amel] Fresh water pump pressure problem

Barry <seagasm@...>
 

Its called an Accumulator and has a rubber bladder inside and a valve that you connect an air pump to. Sometimes there is a small unit as well behind the electric switch. Turn off the electric water pump, open the tap faucet, connect an electric air pump similar to one you use to top up your car tyres, we pumped ours to about 10-18psi, this will also expel any water in the accumulator/s out the open faucet, when pressure is reached disconnect air pump, turn off the faucet and switch back on your water pump. You may have to experiment with the pressure but that is the normal procedure. All electric switches and accumulators are available from agriculture or irrigation stores.
Best Regards,
Barry and Robyn
Tradewinds III SM 171

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Martin" <yachtcaduceus@...> wrote:

Pat, thank you for this advice. I am off to the boat later today and wil check this out. The symptoms are exactly what you describe. Does anyone have any knowledge of how to reintroduce air into the receiver.
Martin


Re: [Amel] Battery life AND control

Barry <seagasm@...>
 

Hello Stefano, Magnetronic superseded the 4000 model with the 6000 which has the option to also include the main engine battery voltage reading. We discovered the 4000 was providing incorrect readings, possibly due to the age of 14years. Magnetronic will repair your old unit or you can purchase the new 6000 model. Your old shunt will not need replacing. We opted to purchase a new 6000 and it works well. Before you do anything, check your batteries but it sounds like the unit could be faulty. Try resetting it first by following the instructions.

Best Regards
Barry and Robyn
Tradewinds III SM 171

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, " Anne and John Hollamby" <annejohnholl@...> wrote:

Hello Stefano,
Check with local battery shops to find one that has a modern electronic battery tester and have them come to test the batteries one by one and then if they are all nearing end of life replace the lot.
This is expensive but makes for more peace of mind. You will probably have to reset the battery monitor, there are fuses in each line to the meter and these are just above the main battery switches. See the manual, one has to be connected before the other one, I am not on my boat at the moment so I cannot tell you which one it is!

Happy charging, Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM 319


----- Original Message -----
From: cptbiffi
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2012 5:39 PM
Subject: [Amel] Battery life AND control



Hy, my hull is 195 of SM. On the magnetronic for battery control system I'm reading 236 ah,59% and 27v. CAP and MEM flashing. That is after 6days with no charge and 2ah use,AND 6days of continous charge. Batterys Are over or I can do anything? Thanks for any suggestion
Stefano from n'everest dry in olbia





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Drive unit Ctrek 730

tresliebres <eonoemedia@...>
 

Hello, I have in my old Amel Euros 41 a Cetrek autopilot 730. The drive unit failed recently. Motor runs, but the clutch does not. Someone with experience in the topic? Thanks in advance


Italian tax on foreign yachts

Anne and John Hollamby <annejohnholl@...>
 

I have just received a genuine notification announcing that the tax proposed for any foreign yachts visiting or berthing in Italy has now been repealed. It still applies to Italian boats.

Phew! Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM319


Re: [Amel] Battery life AND control

Anne and John Hollamby <annejohnholl@...>
 

Hello Stefano,
Check with local battery shops to find one that has a modern electronic battery tester and have them come to test the batteries one by one and then if they are all nearing end of life replace the lot.
This is expensive but makes for more peace of mind. You will probably have to reset the battery monitor, there are fuses in each line to the meter and these are just above the main battery switches. See the manual, one has to be connected before the other one, I am not on my boat at the moment so I cannot tell you which one it is!

Happy charging, Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM 319

----- Original Message -----
From: cptbiffi
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2012 5:39 PM
Subject: [Amel] Battery life AND control



Hy, my hull is 195 of SM. On the magnetronic for battery control system I'm reading 236 ah,59% and 27v. CAP and MEM flashing. That is after 6days with no charge and 2ah use,AND 6days of continous charge. Batterys Are over or I can do anything? Thanks for any suggestion
Stefano from n'everest dry in olbia


Re: [Amel] Fresh water pump pressure problem

Martin <yachtcaduceus@...>
 

Pat, thank you for this advice. I am off to the boat later today and wil check this out. The symptoms are exactly what you describe. Does anyone have any knowledge of how to reintroduce air into the receiver.
Martin


Re: [Amel] Fresh water pump pressure problem

Patrick McAneny
 

Martin, If your system has a water tank, the tank should have a head of air
in which is compressed and supplies pressure when you open your faucet.
When the pressure drops a bit then the pump comes on to restore pressure. If
the tank has lost its head of air then the tank is waterbound and the
pressure will drop immediately and the pump will come on the second you open a
faucet. My house has a well and a old cold water storage tank. The tank
loses its head and the pump cycles on and off, until I pump air back into the
tank, I have to do this a couple times a year. If you have a tank it
probably has an air blatter in it.There may or may not be a valve the restore the
lost air.

Pat SM #123

In a message dated 3/11/2012 10:31:29 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
yachtcaduceus@yahoo.co.uk writes:




After 5 years of faultless service the fresh water pump on our Amel 54 #56
has decided to misbehave; and that just as we are about to leave Fort
Lauderdale after weeks spent sorting out other issues. An anyone advise where
the problem may be.

The pressure in the water system stays constant at the usual level and is
maintained at that level over a period of time, i.e. there are no apparent
leaks. When a faucet is opened the pump starts to cut in and out as if
working on demand, instead of drawing on the receiver until the pressure drops
and then recharging the receiver. I would assume that it is the pressure
switch but would be grateful to know if anyone else has seen this problem.

If it is the pressure switch does anyoner know what a suitable replacement
sourceable in the USA might be.

Regards,
Martin Bevan
Caduceus 54 #56
Fort Lauderdale, Florida


Re: Securing flooring hatches

Jose Venegas
 

Sorry guys, after posting it I realize that there was a long series of posts about this topic. So, no need to reply for the locks but any other tips are still appreciated.

Thanks

Jose and Magnolia
Ipanema SM2K 278
In Boston awaiting a June 15th departure.

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Jose" <jvenegas@...> wrote:

We are preparing Ipanema for a trans Atlantic crossing and it is recommended that we secure the flooring hatches. I remember that the newer versions of the SM2000 have some sort of Hatch Latch securing the flooring hatches.
Can somebody kindly show me what they look like and how they are installed?
Has anybody secured the v-berth and aft-cabin beads to prevent their opening in case of a roll?
Any other thoughts or tips would be greatly appreciated.


Securing flooring hatches

Jose Venegas
 

We are preparing Ipanema for a trans Atlantic crossing and it is recommended that we secure the flooring hatches. I remember that the newer versions of the SM2000 have some sort of Hatch Latch securing the flooring hatches.
Can somebody kindly show me what they look like and how they are installed?
Has anybody secured the v-berth and aft-cabin beads to prevent their opening in case of a roll?
Any other thoughts or tips would be greatly appreciated.


Fresh water pump pressure problem

Martin <yachtcaduceus@...>
 

After 5 years of faultless service the fresh water pump on our Amel 54 #56 has decided to misbehave; and that just as we are about to leave Fort Lauderdale after weeks spent sorting out other issues. An anyone advise where the problem may be.

The pressure in the water system stays constant at the usual level and is maintained at that level over a period of time, i.e. there are no apparent leaks. When a faucet is opened the pump starts to cut in and out as if working on demand, instead of drawing on the receiver until the pressure drops and then recharging the receiver. I would assume that it is the pressure switch but would be grateful to know if anyone else has seen this problem.

If it is the pressure switch does anyoner know what a suitable replacement sourceable in the USA might be.

Regards,
Martin Bevan
Caduceus 54 #56
Fort Lauderdale, Florida