Date   

Re: [Amel] Photo of the Bow Thruster Special Tool Nylon Hub and Propeller

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi again Bill. I had the wood part made up but neglected to fit the piece of tube in the top before I lost the paper with the dimensions. We were in the BVIs at the time and I just could not find a piece of tube the right size anywhere.One day when you get time could you measure the inside diameter, the hole size and position and the length of that piece of tube.
Thanks
Danny
SM299 Ocean Perarl
Mangonui
New Zealand

From: Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@svbebe.com>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, 8 June 2012 7:10 PM
Subject: [Amel] Photo of the Bow Thruster Special Tool Nylon Hub and Propeller


 
Pat,

Follow this link...I just uploaded it:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1587075684/pic/1462649480/view?picmode=large&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc

More photos at http://svbebe.blogspot.com/2012/06/few-days-at-anchor-mishap-returning-to.html

Also, Somme pictures how Jluc CottonBay built one for a few $:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1641197370/pic/list?m\;
ode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc

Best,

Bill
Bebe, SM2k, #387
Currently Fethiye Turkey

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, sailw32@... wrote:

Is there a photo anywhere of the "special in the water tool" I do not
believe my boat came with one.

Thanks, Pat SM #123

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Re: Foredeck Light/Steaming Light

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Bill, the leds I have bought are 12 to 30 volt so I guess that covers the ovewr voltage. We have not lost any yet.
regards
Danny
SM299 Ocean pearl
Mangonui
New Zealand

From: Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@svbebe.com>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, 8 June 2012 6:57 PM
Subject: [Amel] Re: Foredeck Light/Steaming Light


 
I am not an expert with this bit of advice. In fact, call me a victim with experience.

Full range LED bulbs i.e. 12v to 24v are problematic for 24 volt systems because the voltage in a 24 volt system will reach into 28 volts and cause damage to the bulbs drastically shortening the life of the bulb and basically removing any cost benefit.

Be sure the bulb has a built-in power/voltage regulator or wire a regulator before the bulb.

If you do this, you will spend less money than I did, constantly replacing LED bulbs.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Fethiye Turkey

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Kent Robertson <karkauai@...> wrote:

Thanks, Danny,
I'm onto a couple of leds here in the States that might work.  I'll report when I figure something out that I know will work.
Kent


________________________________
From: Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...>
To: "amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 7, 2012 4:27 AM
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Foredeck Light/Steaming Light


 
Hi Kent. The light is a Revolution brand round work light, 900 Lumen, made in Australia so probably not much good to you. Prices on LED lights have dropped dramatically here in the last 6 months. 9 months ago we bought two of these lights for $120 NZ each. Today I could have bought them for $55 NZ.each.  A caution though. The retailer told me that a fishing boat that had fitted these as work lights found an interference buzz coming through his VHF. We have not had that problem though, guess being up the masts they are far enough away.
Regards
Danny
SM299 Ocean Pearl
Mangonui
New Zealand

From: Kent Robertson <karkauai@...>
To: "amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, 7 June 2012 7:05 AM
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Foredeck Light/Steaming Light

 
Great, thanks,
kent

From: Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...>
To: "amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 6, 2012 2:33 PM
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Foredeck Light/Steaming Light

 
Hi Kent, yes it was. Without looking at it my memory is that it was denoted 12 to 30 volt, not just 24. In fact most of the bulbs we use for 24 volt are rated 28 volt. But I do find that even in marine shops most of what they have is 12 volt.I will see if I can get the brand name and specs for you. 

Regards
Danny
SM299 Ocean Pearl
Mangonui
New Zealand

From: Kent Robertson <karkauai@...>
To: "amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, 7 June 2012 1:50 AM
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Foredeck Light/Steaming Light

 
Hi Danny,
Is the LED that you bought at automotive store 24v?  Everything I'm finding online is 12v.
kent

From: Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...>
To: "amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 5, 2012 5:11 PM
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Foredeck Light/Steaming Light

 
Hi Kent, I have replaced the down light with led. What I used was a motor vehicle flood light available at auto electrical shops. It is a round unit but had a protruberance to attach to a bracket. I cut that off with a hacksaw and then the unit fitted neatly into the housing on the mast. I secured it in there by passing a heavy cable tie through a hole on either side of the housing and across the face of the light. Neat and simple and secure and they work well. I did the same for the mizzen down light. When fitting led lights remember that they are polarity sensitive, that is you need to run the electrical current through the correct way or they don't work. Does no harm to them, if it doesn't go just swap the wires.
Regards
Danny
SM299 Ocean Pearl
Mangonui
New Zealand 

From: Kent <karkauai@...>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, 6 June 2012 1:30 AM
Subject: [Amel] Re: Foredeck Light/Steaming Light

 
Hi everyone,
I've searched the site and can't find any definitive answer to this old ? from Eric. On KRISTY, SM243, the steaming light is AquaSignal, but the burned-out bulb doesn't have any markings indicating wattage. I'd like to replace the bulb with led. Does anyone know the wattage? Has anyone replaced this (and the bow nav lites) with led's?

Just below the steaming light is mounted a separate fixture for the deck flood. The bulb is the oft-cited 24V 50A Par36 bulb. Does anyone know who makes this flood fixture? Has anyone replaced this bulb with an led?

Thanks in advance for your help.
Kent
SM243
KRISTY
Currently Brunswick GA

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, kimberlite <kimberlite@> wrote:

Does anyone know the manufacturer of the foredeck light mounted just below
the steaming light?

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]










[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Re: New motor

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Well said Bill, we need to understand our boats.
Regards
Danny
SM299 Ocean pearl
Mangonui
New Zealand
 

From: Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@svbebe.com>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, 8 June 2012 6:31 PM
Subject: [Amel] Re: New motor


 
Barb,

You and Paul need to chill for a few minutes. Your Amel needs to be understood, not criticized.

The seals and wear bearing are normal items to be replaced. We do it every time we haul out. Go to the Files section of this website for instructions of how to do it. They are located at: http://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/4JTRT4LTJsFiLpA_BVTj-1dx-NYMA2xR4e_tc_wo8dcll2CMrYDH4hTKCCjW0khLurI-3EBH7blGCvTnWLpWcduwbYM/C%20Drive%20%26%20Propeller%20Shaft%2C/Shaft%20Bushing%20and%20Seals%20Replacement.pdf

Mechanics that are not familiar with something generally are critical of what they do not understand...it is their defense mechanism. The Amel C Drive is thousands of times better than a Yanmar sail drive...and remove the C Drive and replace it with a sail drive and you converted your asset to junk!

Did you follow the instructions in the Files section )link above)?
If you did not do it yourself, are you absolutely sure it was done correctly?
Were the parts sourced from Amel?
Were the seals orientated correctly?
You said you replaced the seals, did you replace the wear bushing and its O ring as well.
Are you sure that every last bit of water was flushed when you changed the seals?
Did you inspect or replace the O ring on the C drive drain plug?
Where are you located? You should add your location to every posting...there may be someone nearby that can help.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Fethiye, Turkey

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Barbara Nairne <surfskis2002@...> wrote:

Hi,
Because we had some salt water in the C-drive the mechanic is concerned that the bottom seals of the C-drive should be replaced. We have done the prop seals 4 months ago.
 
We are now looking at putting it together and doing a pressure test to see if there is a leak - and if so replacing with a Yanmar sail drive!!!
 
Hopefully I will get on top of this as Paul wants nothing further to do with this boat!!!
 
Regards
Barb
Sueno Azul
Super Maramu No 39


--- On Fri, 8/6/12, karkauai@... <karkauai@...> wrote:


From: karkauai@... <karkauai@...>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: New motor
To: "amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Received: Friday, 8 June, 2012, 12:42 PM


I don't know how different the alignment will bebetween the Perkins and the Yanmar, b ut on SM 243 the alignment was very nearly the same between the Volvo and the Yanmar.  He dropped the new Yanmar in, shimmed it a little| and voila! Perfect fit.  The vertical edge of the angle iron support had to be trimmed to allow the oil filter to fit.

Kent
1999 SM243
KRISTY

Sent from my BlackBerry® smartphone powered by Alltel

-----Original Message-----
From: "Barb" <surfskis2002@...>
Sender: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thu, 07 Jun 2012 22:07:28
To: <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Re: New motor





Hi all,
We now have the Perkins M80T out of the boat. The Yanmar mechanic has struck a problem. He cannot remove the top of the C drive so he can take it back to his workshop and align with the new Yanmar gearbox.
He is talking about cutting the casing so he can get to it - but of course as usual it's up to me to decide.


Any advice as to how anyone else managed their alignment of the C drive to the gearbox would be appreciated.

We are installing a 75hp Yanmar 4JH4-TE with the ZF 15MV which has the 2.718 ratio.

Thanks
Barb
Sueno Azul
No.39
Super Maramu No.39

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@> wrote:

Hi all, have to agree Bill that this could be a factor. Recently I saw a "red line" SM out of the water. I understand these were among the last SMs built. The auto prop on it was much larger than mine so I would assume that it has the 110 hp engine with a drive train and propellor to match.  
Regards
Danny
SM 299 Ocean Pearl
Mangonui
New Zealand

From: Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, 17 May 2012 5:47 PM
Subject: [Amel] Re: New motor


 

I assume this is the root cause of the two recent C-drive failures.

Bill
BeBe SM2k #387
Turkey

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Barb" <surfskis2002@> wrote:

Hi all,
Just info for anhyone else needing to repower an earlier model Super Maramu - below info from Maud


After investigation we have found that you have the first version of cast iron drive unit and since then they have been upgraded and strengthened. Therefore the drive is not capable of taking a 110hp Yanmar engine.

The recommended power handling is 83 HP at 1000 rpm i.e.580 N/M.



We hope the information will help your mechanical engineer.

Barb
Sueno Azul
Super Maramu No.39
1991 Model












------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Photo of the Bow Thruster Special Tool Nylon Hub and Propeller

Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Pat,

Follow this link...I just uploaded it:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1587075684/pic/1462649480/view?picmode=large&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc

More photos at http://svbebe.blogspot.com/2012/06/few-days-at-anchor-mishap-returning-to.html

Also, Somme pictures how Jluc CottonBay built one for a few $:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1641197370/pic/list?m\;
ode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc


Best,

Bill
Bebe, SM2k, #387
Currently Fethiye Turkey

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, sailw32@... wrote:

Is there a photo anywhere of the "special in the water tool" I do not
believe my boat came with one.

Thanks, Pat SM #123

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


[Amel] Re: Foredeck Light/Steaming Light

Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
 

I am not an expert with this bit of advice. In fact, call me a victim with experience.

Full range LED bulbs i.e. 12v to 24v are problematic for 24 volt systems because the voltage in a 24 volt system will reach into 28 volts and cause damage to the bulbs drastically shortening the life of the bulb and basically removing any cost benefit.

Be sure the bulb has a built-in power/voltage regulator or wire a regulator before the bulb.

If you do this, you will spend less money than I did, constantly replacing LED bulbs.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Fethiye Turkey

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Kent Robertson <karkauai@...> wrote:

Thanks, Danny,
I'm onto a couple of leds here in the States that might work.  I'll report when I figure something out that I know will work.
Kent


________________________________
From: Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...>
To: "amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 7, 2012 4:27 AM
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Foredeck Light/Steaming Light


 
Hi Kent. The light is a Revolution brand round work light, 900 Lumen, made in Australia so probably not much good to you. Prices on LED lights have dropped dramatically here in the last 6 months. 9 months ago we bought two of these lights for $120 NZ each. Today I could have bought them for $55 NZ.each.  A caution though. The retailer told me that a fishing boat that had fitted these as work lights found an interference buzz coming through his VHF. We have not had that problem though, guess being up the masts they are far enough away.
Regards
Danny
SM299 Ocean Pearl
Mangonui
New Zealand

From: Kent Robertson <karkauai@...>
To: "amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, 7 June 2012 7:05 AM
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Foredeck Light/Steaming Light

 
Great, thanks,
kent

From: Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...>
To: "amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 6, 2012 2:33 PM
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Foredeck Light/Steaming Light

 
Hi Kent, yes it was. Without looking at it my memory is that it was denoted 12 to 30 volt, not just 24. In fact most of the bulbs we use for 24 volt are rated 28 volt. But I do find that even in marine shops most of what they have is 12 volt.I will see if I can get the brand name and specs for you. 

Regards
Danny
SM299 Ocean Pearl
Mangonui
New Zealand

From: Kent Robertson <karkauai@...>
To: "amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, 7 June 2012 1:50 AM
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Foredeck Light/Steaming Light

 
Hi Danny,
Is the LED that you bought at automotive store 24v?  Everything I'm finding online is 12v.
kent

From: Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...>
To: "amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 5, 2012 5:11 PM
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Foredeck Light/Steaming Light

 
Hi Kent, I have replaced the down light with led. What I used was a motor vehicle flood light available at auto electrical shops. It is a round unit but had a protruberance to attach to a bracket. I cut that off with a hacksaw and then the unit fitted neatly into the housing on the mast. I secured it in there by passing a heavy cable tie through a hole on either side of the housing and across the face of the light. Neat and simple and secure and they work well. I did the same for the mizzen down light. When fitting led lights remember that they are polarity sensitive, that is you need to run the electrical current through the correct way or they don't work. Does no harm to them, if it doesn't go just swap the wires.
Regards
Danny
SM299 Ocean Pearl
Mangonui
New Zealand 

From: Kent <karkauai@...>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, 6 June 2012 1:30 AM
Subject: [Amel] Re: Foredeck Light/Steaming Light

 
Hi everyone,
I've searched the site and can't find any definitive answer to this old ? from Eric. On KRISTY, SM243, the steaming light is AquaSignal, but the burned-out bulb doesn't have any markings indicating wattage. I'd like to replace the bulb with led. Does anyone know the wattage? Has anyone replaced this (and the bow nav lites) with led's?

Just below the steaming light is mounted a separate fixture for the deck flood. The bulb is the oft-cited 24V 50A Par36 bulb. Does anyone know who makes this flood fixture? Has anyone replaced this bulb with an led?

Thanks in advance for your help.
Kent
SM243
KRISTY
Currently Brunswick GA

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, kimberlite <kimberlite@> wrote:

Does anyone know the manufacturer of the foredeck light mounted just below
the steaming light?

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]








Chain Counter Repair or Replacement (Excalibur may help)

Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
 

It is Amel made from some off-the-shelf parts.

My guess from seeing what you have on the display is that the processor in the counter has gone south, or possibly there is a short in the wires going to the processor.

You can reboot it by turning off the transformers under the nav station. The ON/OFF switch for the 24 to 12 volt transformers on BeBe is marked "PERMANENT"

The only product sheet I have is for the new sensor, which I expect you received when you received yours.

I wish I could be more help. Have you written Amel? There is an owner from Chile ("Excalibur") on this forum who replaced the entire Amel counter with something else. Hopefully he will respond to this.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Fethiye Bay Area Turkey

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Kimberly Cerillo" <kcvabeach@...> wrote:

Judy and Bill,



Our anchor chain counter display seems to have gone south. I put photos on
the website, but do you have any literature on the display unit? Is this
Amel made?



http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/596232906/pic/lis
t



or under photos ANCHOR CHAIN COUNTER HELM DISPLAY





Kim and George

SM2K #353 Indecent



From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Judy and Bill aboard
SV BeBe
Sent: Thursday, June 07, 2012 8:56 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Re: Lofrans Tigres 1200w Windlass





I found the source of the reduced power to the windlass. It was the contact
points inside the windlass control box. I took photos and documented the
steps I took to solve this. You can view the photo at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1454030119/pic/17
55423072/view?picmode=large
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1454030119/pic/1
755423072/view?picmode=large&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc>
&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc The process starts by unscrewing the
famous Amel Thumb Screw to gain access...sheesh, BeBe has been ours for over
7 years and you would think that I would finally become complacent and not
be impressed with Amel!

Now I have 1 more reason to love the Amel Super Maramu. The simplicity of
service and the ability to access is once again superior to anything else
made. Amel really does care and it is so evident if you go through the steps
I suggest in the above photo link.

I believe that this example of the ease of removing, accessing,
troubleshooting, and servicing the control systems for the Electric Furler
and windlass is probably 100th time I have been amazed at the attention to
detail and serviceability.

Thanks do much for all of your suggestions.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Fethiye, Turkey

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe"
<yahoogroups@> wrote:


I found the source of the reduced power to the windlass. It was the
contact points inside the windlass control box. I took photos and documented
the steps I took to solve this. I will post more tomorrow after I install a
new prop using the in-the-water tool. We pulled anchor outside a marina
today to enter the marina for a special 65th birthday dinner tonight. I
failed to secure the anchor snubber line and while backing the bow thruster
found the line for me.

More tomorrow

Bill
BeBe SM2k #387
Currently Fethiye Turkey.
--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , Chris Smither <yachtakwaaba@>
wrote:

Bill,
  I had a similar problem on the Santorin Lofrans windlass, which I
solved by cleaning the carbon dust from the motor commutator, and then "
cutting back" the accumulated gunk between the commutator segments.
  This used to be an accepted part of dc motor maintenance, and was
routinely done, but with the modern "replace not repair" seems to have
been neglected.
  However, after doing that once, and it happening again, some 5 yrs
later, I took the windlass off and stripped it completely, replacing all the
bearings and seals, and getting the motor serviced , cleaned, revarnished,
balanced and then replaced.

So far so good.

Mike
SN027
Phuket. Thailand


________________________________
From: Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 5, 2012 11:06 PM
Subject: [Amel] Lofrans Tigres 1200w Windlass


Â
Call me crazy, but it seems like the Lofrans Tigres 1200w Windlass is
losing power.

I replaced the house and starter batteries less than a year ago, and
when the old batteries were weak, I did not notice a lack of power.

Has anyone experienced this and do you have clues or advice?

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Fethyie, Turkey









[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


[Amel] Re: New motor

Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Barb,

You and Paul need to chill for a few minutes. Your Amel needs to be understood, not criticized.

The seals and wear bearing are normal items to be replaced. We do it every time we haul out. Go to the Files section of this website for instructions of how to do it. They are located at: http://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/4JTRT4LTJsFiLpA_BVTj-1dx-NYMA2xR4e_tc_wo8dcll2CMrYDH4hTKCCjW0khLurI-3EBH7blGCvTnWLpWcduwbYM/C%20Drive%20%26%20Propeller%20Shaft%2C/Shaft%20Bushing%20and%20Seals%20Replacement.pdf

Mechanics that are not familiar with something generally are critical of what they do not understand...it is their defense mechanism. The Amel C Drive is thousands of times better than a Yanmar sail drive...and remove the C Drive and replace it with a sail drive and you converted your asset to junk!

Did you follow the instructions in the Files section )link above)?
If you did not do it yourself, are you absolutely sure it was done correctly?
Were the parts sourced from Amel?
Were the seals orientated correctly?
You said you replaced the seals, did you replace the wear bushing and its O ring as well.
Are you sure that every last bit of water was flushed when you changed the seals?
Did you inspect or replace the O ring on the C drive drain plug?
Where are you located? You should add your location to every posting...there may be someone nearby that can help.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Fethiye, Turkey

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Barbara Nairne <surfskis2002@...> wrote:

Hi,
Because we had some salt water in the C-drive the mechanic is concerned that the bottom seals of the C-drive should be replaced. We have done the prop seals 4 months ago.
 
We are now looking at putting it together and doing a pressure test to see if there is a leak - and if so replacing with a Yanmar sail drive!!!
 
Hopefully I will get on top of this as Paul wants nothing further to do with this boat!!!
 
Regards
Barb
Sueno Azul
Super Maramu No 39


--- On Fri, 8/6/12, karkauai@... <karkauai@...> wrote:


From: karkauai@... <karkauai@...>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: New motor
To: "amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Received: Friday, 8 June, 2012, 12:42 PM


I don't know how different the alignment will bebetween the Perkins and the Yanmar, b ut on SM 243 the alignment was very nearly the same between the Volvo and the Yanmar.  He dropped the new Yanmar in, shimmed it a little| and voila! Perfect fit.  The vertical edge of the angle iron support had to be trimmed to allow the oil filter to fit.

Kent
1999 SM243
KRISTY

Sent from my BlackBerry® smartphone powered by Alltel

-----Original Message-----
From: "Barb" <surfskis2002@...>
Sender: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thu, 07 Jun 2012 22:07:28
To: <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Re: New motor





Hi all,
We now have the Perkins M80T out of the boat. The Yanmar mechanic has struck a problem. He cannot remove the top of the C drive so he can take it back to his workshop and align with the new Yanmar gearbox.
He is talking about cutting the casing so he can get to it - but of course as usual it's up to me to decide.


Any advice as to how anyone else managed their alignment of the C drive to the gearbox would be appreciated.

We are installing a 75hp Yanmar 4JH4-TE with the ZF 15MV which has the 2.718 ratio.

Thanks
Barb
Sueno Azul
No.39
Super Maramu No.39

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@> wrote:

Hi all, have to agree Bill that this could be a factor. Recently I saw a "red line" SM out of the water. I understand these were among the last SMs built. The auto prop on it was much larger than mine so I would assume that it has the 110 hp engine with a drive train and propellor to match.  
Regards
Danny
SM 299 Ocean Pearl
Mangonui
New Zealand

From: Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, 17 May 2012 5:47 PM
Subject: [Amel] Re: New motor


 

I assume this is the root cause of the two recent C-drive failures.

Bill
BeBe SM2k #387
Turkey

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Barb" <surfskis2002@> wrote:

Hi all,
Just info for anhyone else needing to repower an earlier model Super Maramu - below info from Maud


After investigation we have found that you have the first version of cast iron drive unit and since then they have been upgraded and strengthened. Therefore the drive is not capable of taking a 110hp Yanmar engine.

The recommended power handling is 83 HP at 1000 rpm i.e.580 N/M.



We hope the information will help your mechanical engineer.

Barb
Sueno Azul
Super Maramu No.39
1991 Model



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Re: New motor

Barbara Nairne
 

Hi,
Because we had some salt water in the C-drive the mechanic is concerned that the bottom seals of the C-drive should be replaced. We have done the prop seals 4 months ago.
 
We are now looking at putting it together and doing a pressure test to see if there is a leak - and if so replacing with a Yanmar sail drive!!!
 
Hopefully I will get on top of this as Paul wants nothing further to do with this boat!!!
 
Regards
Barb
Sueno Azul
Super Maramu No 39

--- On Fri, 8/6/12, karkauai@yahoo.com <karkauai@yahoo.com> wrote:


From: karkauai@yahoo.com <karkauai@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: New motor
To: "amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Received: Friday, 8 June, 2012, 12:42 PM


I don't know how different the alignment will bebetween the Perkins and the Yanmar, b ut on SM 243 the alignment was very nearly the same between the Volvo and the Yanmar.  He dropped the new Yanmar in, shimmed it a little| and voila! Perfect fit.  The vertical edge of the angle iron support had to be trimmed to allow the oil filter to fit.

Kent
1999 SM243
KRISTY

Sent from my BlackBerry® smartphone powered by Alltel

-----Original Message-----
From: "Barb" <surfskis2002@yahoo.com.au>
Sender: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thu, 07 Jun 2012 22:07:28
To: <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Re: New motor





Hi all,
We now have the Perkins M80T out of the boat. The Yanmar mechanic has struck a problem. He cannot remove the top of the C drive so he can take it back to his workshop and align with the new Yanmar gearbox.
He is talking about cutting the casing so he can get to it - but of course as usual it's up to me to decide.


Any advice as to how anyone else managed their alignment of the C drive to the gearbox would be appreciated.

We are installing a 75hp Yanmar 4JH4-TE with the ZF 15MV which has the 2.718 ratio.

Thanks
Barb
Sueno Azul
No.39
Super Maramu No.39

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...> wrote:

Hi all, have to agree Bill that this could be a factor. Recently I saw a "red line" SM out of the water. I understand these were among the last SMs built. The auto prop on it was much larger than mine so I would assume that it has the 110 hp engine with a drive train and propellor to match.  
Regards
Danny
SM 299 Ocean Pearl
Mangonui
New Zealand

From: Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, 17 May 2012 5:47 PM
Subject: [Amel] Re: New motor


 

I assume this is the root cause of the two recent C-drive failures.

Bill
BeBe SM2k #387
Turkey

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Barb" <surfskis2002@> wrote:

Hi all,
Just info for anhyone else needing to repower an earlier model Super Maramu - below info from Maud


After investigation we have found that you have the first version of cast iron drive unit and since then they have been upgraded and strengthened. Therefore the drive is not capable of taking a 110hp Yanmar engine.

The recommended power handling is 83 HP at 1000 rpm i.e.580 N/M.



We hope the information will help your mechanical engineer.

Barb
Sueno Azul
Super Maramu No.39
1991 Model



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]








------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Re: New motor

karkauai
 

I don't know how different the alignment will bebetween the Perkins and the Yanmar, b ut on SM 243 the alignment was very nearly the same between the Volvo and the Yanmar. He dropped the new Yanmar in, shimmed it a little| and voila! Perfect fit. The vertical edge of the angle iron support had to be trimmed to allow the oil filter to fit.

Kent
1999 SM243
KRISTY

Sent from my BlackBerry smartphone powered by Alltel

-----Original Message-----
From: "Barb" <surfskis2002@yahoo.com.au>
Sender: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thu, 07 Jun 2012 22:07:28
To: <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Re: New motor





Hi all,
We now have the Perkins M80T out of the boat. The Yanmar mechanic has struck a problem. He cannot remove the top of the C drive so he can take it back to his workshop and align with the new Yanmar gearbox.
He is talking about cutting the casing so he can get to it - but of course as usual it's up to me to decide.


Any advice as to how anyone else managed their alignment of the C drive to the gearbox would be appreciated.

We are installing a 75hp Yanmar 4JH4-TE with the ZF 15MV which has the 2.718 ratio.

Thanks
Barb
Sueno Azul
No.39
Super Maramu No.39

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...> wrote:

Hi all, have to agree Bill that this could be a factor. Recently I saw a "red line" SM out of the water. I understand these were among the last SMs built. The auto prop on it was much larger than mine so I would assume that it has the 110 hp engine with a drive train and propellor to match.  
Regards
Danny
SM 299 Ocean Pearl
Mangonui
New Zealand

From: Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, 17 May 2012 5:47 PM
Subject: [Amel] Re: New motor


 

I assume this is the root cause of the two recent C-drive failures.

Bill
BeBe SM2k #387
Turkey

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Barb" <surfskis2002@> wrote:

Hi all,
Just info for anhyone else needing to repower an earlier model Super Maramu - below info from Maud


After investigation we have found that you have the first version of cast iron drive unit and since then they have been upgraded and strengthened. Therefore the drive is not capable of taking a 110hp Yanmar engine.

The recommended power handling is 83 HP at 1000 rpm i.e.580 N/M.



We hope the information will help your mechanical engineer.

Barb
Sueno Azul
Super Maramu No.39
1991 Model





[Amel] Re: New motor

Barbara Nairne
 

Hi all,
We now have the Perkins M80T out of the boat. The Yanmar mechanic has struck a problem. He cannot remove the top of the C drive so he can take it back to his workshop and align with the new Yanmar gearbox.
He is talking about cutting the casing so he can get to it - but of course as usual it's up to me to decide.


Any advice as to how anyone else managed their alignment of the C drive to the gearbox would be appreciated.

We are installing a 75hp Yanmar 4JH4-TE with the ZF 15MV which has the 2.718 ratio.

Thanks
Barb
Sueno Azul
No.39
Super Maramu No.39

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...> wrote:

Hi all, have to agree Bill that this could be a factor. Recently I saw a "red line" SM out of the water. I understand these were among the last SMs built. The auto prop on it was much larger than mine so I would assume that it has the 110 hp engine with a drive train and propellor to match.  
Regards
Danny
SM 299 Ocean Pearl
Mangonui
New Zealand

From: Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, 17 May 2012 5:47 PM
Subject: [Amel] Re: New motor


 

I assume this is the root cause of the two recent C-drive failures.

Bill
BeBe SM2k #387
Turkey

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Barb" <surfskis2002@> wrote:

Hi all,
Just info for anhyone else needing to repower an earlier model Super Maramu - below info from Maud


After investigation we have found that you have the first version of cast iron drive unit and since then they have been upgraded and strengthened. Therefore the drive is not capable of taking a 110hp Yanmar engine.

The recommended power handling is 83 HP at 1000 rpm i.e.580 N/M.



We hope the information will help your mechanical engineer.

Barb
Sueno Azul
Super Maramu No.39
1991 Model



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Re: Lofrans Tigres 1200w Windlass

Kimberly Cerillo <kcvabeach@...>
 

Judy and Bill,



Our anchor chain counter display seems to have gone south. I put photos on
the website, but do you have any literature on the display unit? Is this
Amel made?



http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/596232906/pic/lis
t



or under photos ANCHOR CHAIN COUNTER HELM DISPLAY





Kim and George

SM2K #353 Indecent



From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Judy and Bill aboard
SV BeBe
Sent: Thursday, June 07, 2012 8:56 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Re: Lofrans Tigres 1200w Windlass





I found the source of the reduced power to the windlass. It was the contact
points inside the windlass control box. I took photos and documented the
steps I took to solve this. You can view the photo at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1454030119/pic/17
55423072/view?picmode=large
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1454030119/pic/1
755423072/view?picmode=large&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc>
&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc The process starts by unscrewing the
famous Amel Thumb Screw to gain access...sheesh, BeBe has been ours for over
7 years and you would think that I would finally become complacent and not
be impressed with Amel!

Now I have 1 more reason to love the Amel Super Maramu. The simplicity of
service and the ability to access is once again superior to anything else
made. Amel really does care and it is so evident if you go through the steps
I suggest in the above photo link.

I believe that this example of the ease of removing, accessing,
troubleshooting, and servicing the control systems for the Electric Furler
and windlass is probably 100th time I have been amazed at the attention to
detail and serviceability.

Thanks do much for all of your suggestions.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Fethiye, Turkey

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe"
<yahoogroups@...> wrote:


I found the source of the reduced power to the windlass. It was the
contact points inside the windlass control box. I took photos and documented
the steps I took to solve this. I will post more tomorrow after I install a
new prop using the in-the-water tool. We pulled anchor outside a marina
today to enter the marina for a special 65th birthday dinner tonight. I
failed to secure the anchor snubber line and while backing the bow thruster
found the line for me.

More tomorrow

Bill
BeBe SM2k #387
Currently Fethiye Turkey.
--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , Chris Smither <yachtakwaaba@>
wrote:

Bill,
  I had a similar problem on the Santorin Lofrans windlass, which I
solved by cleaning the carbon dust from the motor commutator, and then "
cutting back" the accumulated gunk between the commutator segments.
  This used to be an accepted part of dc motor maintenance, and was
routinely done, but with the modern "replace not repair" seems to have
been neglected.
  However, after doing that once, and it happening again, some 5 yrs
later, I took the windlass off and stripped it completely, replacing all the
bearings and seals, and getting the motor serviced , cleaned, revarnished,
balanced and then replaced.

So far so good.

Mike
SN027
Phuket. Thailand


________________________________
From: Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 5, 2012 11:06 PM
Subject: [Amel] Lofrans Tigres 1200w Windlass


Â
Call me crazy, but it seems like the Lofrans Tigres 1200w Windlass is
losing power.

I replaced the house and starter batteries less than a year ago, and
when the old batteries were weak, I did not notice a lack of power.

Has anyone experienced this and do you have clues or advice?

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Fethyie, Turkey




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Kiwiprop

Dave_Benjamin
 

I'm not sure if anyone is using Kiwiprop but they look like a pretty well thought out feathering prop. They use easily replaceable composite blades. I was intrigued by their new 4 blade unit. On other boats I've had Max-Prop but quite frankly Max-Prop is cost prohibitive. I like the fact Kiwiprop sells direct to the end user as it removes all the mark-ups inherent in conventional marine distribution.

I asked about a prop for our 75hp Yanmar and received the response I've pasted in below. The rep mentioned the possibility of a discount for a group order. Anyhow, here's the info:

Dave,
I have that engine rated at either 74 or 75hp with the turbo. I have you specing nicely onto a 19.5X22 K4 powercurve with that setup. The pitch is adjustable on the Kiwiprop. After you install the prop you take the boat out for a sea trial. At full throttle, you should be able to get to 3800rpm and no further. If it exceeds 3800 or is significantly lower (i.e. 3500), then you adjust the pitch accordingly. This is generally a one time adjustment, and if I get it right from the factory you won't have to touch it. A very minor tweak on the pitch screws is all that might be required and it can absolutely be done underwater. It does not have to be done immediately, just whenever the water is warm, or if you happen to be hauling. While the underwater route is a bit more challenging, it does have the advantage of you can test your adjustments almost right away. The objective is to make sure your engine is properly loaded over the long haul.

The props are $2850US including express post to your door. All we need is a visa/mc, name on the card and expiry, shipping address and phone number and they typically show up in 1-2 weeks. They are simple to install- hard part is usually getting the old prop off and require only periodic greasing as maintenance.

BELOW IS A SECOND EMAIL WHEN I ASKED HIM ABOUT POSTING TO THE GROUP

You can certainly feel free to post any of this thread on the Amel group forum. We previously maxed out at about 60hp so I'm just getting to know some of the larger boats, models, transmissions, engines etc.

I've had KiwiProps on my 42' Simpson Cat for about 11 years now and have done about 12000-15000 delivery miles on boats equipped with KiwiProps so I've got a good base of experience with the props.

KiwiProps has had a direct to customer model via the internet since day one. We had a couple of early dealers on the West Coast that we grandfathered, but we've sold thousands of propellers via word of mouth and the internet since the beginning, and the owner (who is a very conservative, quite brilliant Kiwi Engineer/Inventor) has stuck to this model. One price, and express shipping out of New Zealand all over the world.

Long story short, we don't have a dealer program, but I'd be happy to co-ordinate a bulk purchase for Amel owners if you wanted to put the word out.


Sold my Amel Sharki

Geoffrey Tyers <geoffrey_tyers@...>
 

I have sold my Sharki  #127 and it is on the way to Europe

Please delete me from the Yahoo groups as I have replaced it with a Kadkey Krogen 38


I have enjoyed being with you all for the passed 11 years      Best wishes    Geoffrey Tyers     S.V.  Lionheart


________________________________

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Replacement of the Bow Thruster Nylon Hub and Propeller

jlm@jlmertz.fr
 

Somme pictures how I built it be my self for a few $ :

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1641197370/pic/list?mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc
Jluc
CottonBay
------------------------------------------------------------------------
:

Le 07/06/2012 12:30, sailw32@aol.com a écrit :

Is there a photo anywhere of the "special in the water tool" I do not
believe my boat came with one.

Thanks, Pat SM #123




Re: [Amel] Re: Foredeck Light/Steaming Light

karkauai
 

Thanks, Danny,
I'm onto a couple of leds here in the States that might work.  I'll report when I figure something out that I know will work.
Kent


________________________________
From: Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@xtra.co.nz>
To: "amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 7, 2012 4:27 AM
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Foredeck Light/Steaming Light


 
Hi Kent. The light is a Revolution brand round work light, 900 Lumen, made in Australia so probably not much good to you. Prices on LED lights have dropped dramatically here in the last 6 months. 9 months ago we bought two of these lights for $120 NZ each. Today I could have bought them for $55 NZ.each.  A caution though. The retailer told me that a fishing boat that had fitted these as work lights found an interference buzz coming through his VHF. We have not had that problem though, guess being up the masts they are far enough away.
Regards
Danny
SM299 Ocean Pearl
Mangonui
New Zealand

From: Kent Robertson <karkauai@yahoo.com>
To: "amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, 7 June 2012 7:05 AM
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Foredeck Light/Steaming Light

 
Great, thanks,
kent

From: Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@xtra.co.nz>
To: "amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 6, 2012 2:33 PM
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Foredeck Light/Steaming Light

 
Hi Kent, yes it was. Without looking at it my memory is that it was denoted 12 to 30 volt, not just 24. In fact most of the bulbs we use for 24 volt are rated 28 volt. But I do find that even in marine shops most of what they have is 12 volt.I will see if I can get the brand name and specs for you. 

Regards
Danny
SM299 Ocean Pearl
Mangonui
New Zealand

From: Kent Robertson <karkauai@yahoo.com>
To: "amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, 7 June 2012 1:50 AM
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Foredeck Light/Steaming Light

 
Hi Danny,
Is the LED that you bought at automotive store 24v?  Everything I'm finding online is 12v.
kent

From: Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@xtra.co.nz>
To: "amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 5, 2012 5:11 PM
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Foredeck Light/Steaming Light

 
Hi Kent, I have replaced the down light with led. What I used was a motor vehicle flood light available at auto electrical shops. It is a round unit but had a protruberance to attach to a bracket. I cut that off with a hacksaw and then the unit fitted neatly into the housing on the mast. I secured it in there by passing a heavy cable tie through a hole on either side of the housing and across the face of the light. Neat and simple and secure and they work well. I did the same for the mizzen down light. When fitting led lights remember that they are polarity sensitive, that is you need to run the electrical current through the correct way or they don't work. Does no harm to them, if it doesn't go just swap the wires.
Regards
Danny
SM299 Ocean Pearl
Mangonui
New Zealand 

From: Kent <karkauai@yahoo.com>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, 6 June 2012 1:30 AM
Subject: [Amel] Re: Foredeck Light/Steaming Light

 
Hi everyone,
I've searched the site and can't find any definitive answer to this old ? from Eric. On KRISTY, SM243, the steaming light is AquaSignal, but the burned-out bulb doesn't have any markings indicating wattage. I'd like to replace the bulb with led. Does anyone know the wattage? Has anyone replaced this (and the bow nav lites) with led's?

Just below the steaming light is mounted a separate fixture for the deck flood. The bulb is the oft-cited 24V 50A Par36 bulb. Does anyone know who makes this flood fixture? Has anyone replaced this bulb with an led?

Thanks in advance for your help.
Kent
SM243
KRISTY
Currently Brunswick GA

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, kimberlite <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Does anyone know the manufacturer of the foredeck light mounted just below
the steaming light?

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Replacement of the Bow Thruster Nylon Hub and Propeller

karkauai
 

I'd also like to add that when I painted the hull this fall, I removed the bowthruster prop to paint.  When I replaced it, I used new nylon bolts I got from Amel, but found that they were too long and bound against the backing for the thruster assembly.  I was able to cut them off with a hack saw and trim them up with a file enough to get them to work, but you'd want to know if the new bolts were too long before you were in the water to do the job.

Also, I believe it's been mentioned before, but some of the nylon hubs and props have six screw holes, and some have 8.  If you order new hubs from Amel make sure you get the proper one for your prop.  If you order a new prop, ask for another one with the same number of holes to avoid duplication of spares.  My boat had one of each aboard and no spare hubs or bolts.  I didn't recognize the difference until I tried to replace the prop and didn't have the proper hub.

I would replace the nylon bolts whenever I serviced the thruster for any reason.  Just the torque of using the thruster can weaken the bolts and cause a prop loss if they aren't changed periodically...especially if you go from starbord to port or back rapidly.  The bolts are cheap and it's a real pain to lose the prop when you're backing into a slip in a crosswind.

Kent
SM243
KRISTY


________________________________
From: Jorge Zlatar <jorge.zlatar@yahoo.com>
To: "amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 7, 2012 1:12 AM
Subject: Re: [Amel] Replacement of the Bow Thruster Nylon Hub and Propeller


 
Dear Bill,
I have replaced   the propeller twice using only a snorkel, I tied myself close to the boat ,so i did not move away. I used the weight of the diving equipmet to keep myself steady and also had a plastic  buked to leave all the bits and pieces at hand.
All the best
Jorge
Excalibur SM#197
Currently at Marmaris,Turkey

________________________________
From: Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@svbebe.com>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, June 7, 2012 7:36 AM
Subject: [Amel] Replacement of the Bow Thruster Nylon Hub and Propeller


 
Yesterday I did something stupid and lost the bow thruster propeller, or at least I think that's what happened when a line got entangled with the propeller.

My question is to someone who has had to replace a propeller while in the water:

Would you dive and do it assuming you have the dive equipment, or would you use the special tool, assuming this will be your first time with the special tool?

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Fethiye, Turkey

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Re: Foredeck Light

karkauai
 

Ah Ha!  That explains why the bulb wants to come out so easily.  Mine doesn't have a retaining ring.  I'll look at it again when I'm back on the boat.  I should be able to find a 100mm pvc vent cap on line.  If not, perhaps a ziplock can be judiciously applied to make it more secure, as Danny suggested.
Cool!  Thanks,
Kent
SM243
KRISTY


________________________________
From: drew_gaffney <drew.gaffney@vanderbilt.edu>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 6, 2012 4:12 PM
Subject: [Amel] Re: Foredeck Light


 
Hi Kent,
The fixture on Revelation SM390, as Bebe's, is an AquaSignal. It's no longer made. If you have the same fixture, there are two tabs that actually hold a threaded plastic ring that holds the bulb in place. We were unable to find a ring or replacement fixture, but took a 100mm threaded PVC sewer pipe vent cap, purchased in Fiji, cut it to retain the bulb but let light thru, and screwed it onto the AS fixture. It's worked for 2 years. I've seen several Amels with the retention ring missing...
The bulbs are actually 28V aircraft landing lights, made by GE, and can be bought almost anywhere. I just bought them for $16.95 each, plus shipping.
Drew

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Kent Robertson <karkauai@...> wrote:

Hi again, Amel family,
I looked for the Plastimo fixture after being pointed in that direction by Joel.  Couldn't find the fixture that I have on KRISTY, but bumped into this Kiel Deck Light by Aqua Signal while I was surfing. http://www.leisureshopdirect.com/caravan/water/product_38063/Aqua_Signal_Kiel_Deck_Light.aspx
It looks like the ones on both main and mizzen masts but in black instead of off white.  I tried to find Aqua Signal on line see if they make a white one, but every page I try to access says "Web page cannot be found".  Does anyone know if they are out of business or have a web address that works?
Thanks,
Cousin Kent
1999 SM 243
Kristy
Currently Brunswick, GA

From: Alex <alex.paquin@...>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 5, 2012 6:48 PM
Subject: [Amel] Re: Foredeck Light/Steaming Light


 
In the 1981 Maramu we replaced the floodlight fixture with a Malibu brand plastic 12 v halogen garden lamp purchased at Home Depot in the US. Simple and inexpensive. Perfect fit. The steaming light bulb in our case is a festoon type bulb now also available in LED.
Alex

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Kent" <karkauai@> wrote:

Hi everyone,
I've searched the site and can't find any definitive answer to this old ? from Eric. On KRISTY, SM243, the steaming light is AquaSignal, but the burned-out bulb doesn't have any markings indicating wattage. I'd like to replace the bulb with led. Does anyone know the wattage? Has anyone replaced this (and the bow nav lites) with led's?

Just below the steaming light is mounted a separate fixture for the deck flood. The bulb is the oft-cited 24V 50A Par36 bulb. Does anyone know who makes this flood fixture? Has anyone replaced this bulb with an led?

Thanks in advance for your help.
Kent
SM243
KRISTY
Currently Brunswick GA

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, kimberlite <kimberlite@> wrote:

Does anyone know the manufacturer of the foredeck light mounted just below
the steaming light?

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





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Re: Lofrans Tigres 1200w Windlass

Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
 

I found the source of the reduced power to the windlass. It was the contact points inside the windlass control box. I took photos and documented the steps I took to solve this. You can view the photo at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1454030119/pic/1755423072/view?picmode=large&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc The process starts by unscrewing the famous Amel Thumb Screw to gain access...sheesh, BeBe has been ours for over 7 years and you would think that I would finally become complacent and not be impressed with Amel!

Now I have 1 more reason to love the Amel Super Maramu. The simplicity of service and the ability to access is once again superior to anything else made. Amel really does care and it is so evident if you go through the steps I suggest in the above photo link.

I believe that this example of the ease of removing, accessing, troubleshooting, and servicing the control systems for the Electric Furler and windlass is probably 100th time I have been amazed at the attention to detail and serviceability.

Thanks do much for all of your suggestions.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Fethiye, Turkey

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@...> wrote:


I found the source of the reduced power to the windlass. It was the contact points inside the windlass control box. I took photos and documented the steps I took to solve this. I will post more tomorrow after I install a new prop using the in-the-water tool. We pulled anchor outside a marina today to enter the marina for a special 65th birthday dinner tonight. I failed to secure the anchor snubber line and while backing the bow thruster found the line for me.

More tomorrow

Bill
BeBe SM2k #387
Currently Fethiye Turkey.
--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Chris Smither <yachtakwaaba@> wrote:

Bill,
   I had a similar problem on the Santorin Lofrans windlass, which I solved by cleaning the carbon dust from the motor commutator, and then " cutting back" the  accumulated gunk between the commutator segments.
   This used to be an accepted part of dc motor maintenance, and was routinely done, but with  the modern "replace not repair" seems to have been neglected.
   However, after doing that once, and it happening again, some 5 yrs later, I took the windlass off and stripped it completely, replacing all the bearings and seals, and getting the motor serviced , cleaned, revarnished, balanced and then replaced.

So far so good.

Mike
SN027
Phuket. Thailand


________________________________
From: Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 5, 2012 11:06 PM
Subject: [Amel] Lofrans Tigres 1200w Windlass


 
Call me crazy, but it seems like the Lofrans Tigres 1200w Windlass is losing power.

I replaced the house and starter batteries less than a year ago, and when the old batteries were weak, I did not notice a lack of power.

Has anyone experienced this and do you have clues or advice?

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Fethyie, Turkey






Re: [Amel] MARAMU RUB RAIL REPLACEMENT

Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

This is a rubber rub rail that we got form Amel for our 1983 Maramu NOT USED ON THE SM's

Regards

Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

On Jun 6, 2012, at 18:42, "Kimberly Cerillo" <kcvabeach@yahoo.com> wrote:

Richard,

Where is this rubber replacement to be found?

George and Kim Cerillo

SM2K #353 Indecent

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com [mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Richard03801
Sent: Friday, June 01, 2012 9:53 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel] MARAMU RUB RAIL REPLACEMENT

There is a rubber replaceable rub rail on the Maramu that is copper nailed into place. One pre drills the nail holes after fitting the rubber. The system works well and lasts. Your SM is a hard rail.

Regards

Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

On May 31, 2012, at 22:54, "murray k. seidel" <mseidel@ec.rr.com <mailto:mseidel%40ec.rr.com> > wrote:

I previously wrote as to how we used thick strips of starboard cut on a table saw and using a router were shaped as needed with rounded edges.. These were screwed into the groove in the rub rail protruding 3/16 to ¼ inch beyond. Painted the old brown rub rail a beautiful royal blue with awl grip and put the white starboard IN THE GROOVE. If you have any defects, use epoxy and fiberglass to fix. My boot top is a bright red from awl grip yielding a dramatic improvement in the hull appearance and an indestructible rub rail.

Entire cost less than 800 dollars.. Murray Seidel, Sundance SM 349

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> [mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Richard03801
Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2012 6:13 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [Amel] MARAMU RUB RAIL REPLACEMENT

Alex we ordered ours from Amel. When you do be sure to get the fasteners too. Best is to have the boat on the hard in summer so it os easier to work with.

Regards

Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

On May 28, 2012, at 19:26, "Alex" <alex.paquin@usa.net <mailto:alex.paquin%40usa.net> <mailto:alex.paquin%40usa.net> > wrote:

Does anyone have any experience replacing the rub rail on a Maramu? Has anyone found a supplier of this item in the USA?

Alex Paquin
SIMPATICO
Maramu #94






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Re: [Amel] Replacement of the Bow Thruster Nylon Hub and Propeller

Patrick McAneny
 

Is there a photo anywhere of the "special in the water tool" I do not
believe my boat came with one.

Thanks, Pat SM #123