Date   

bow thruster Santorin

ornellab <ornella.battaglini@...>
 

Good morning. On my Santorin "earendil" the balck tube of bow thruster in connmected to the engine bolted on 4 screws threaded on the carbon tube. But the threads on the carbon is not resistant and after few uses deteriorates. On my Santorin a screw does not hold any longer. I saw a photo of SM CottonBay, which seems to have a bronze bushing in the black tube to hold the screws. This collar exists for the Santorin? Exists as spare part? Thanks to all and good wind


Re: [Amel] SM2000 Bow Thruster Removal

bobparry1947
 

Hi Ian,

Good luck with it. As you can imagine, the oil in ours was like mayonnaise.
It still worked well and sounded fine but it was probably on a short fuse.
We don't know why it started to leak on our way from New Caledonia but it
seems logical that the seal was somehow damaged when we went to the fuel
dock. Up until then, it had been bone dry.

Hope all goes well. We will be interested to hear how it went.

Regards,

Ann and Bob
Nowornot SM#33

On Wed, Jul 18, 2012 at 5:46 PM, Ian Shepherd <sv_freespirit@yahoo.co.uk>wrote:

**


Hi Bob,

I was joking when I said lift the foredeck of course! I was just
imagining the car jack trying to lift it up as it generated pressure. I
hope to start work on the thruster next Saturday when I am back in Cyprus.

As I have filled my thruster with grease instead of oil, it would be
possible to do all the servicing without disconnecting from the motor,
but I know that if I don't get it apart now and re-grease the splines,
then I probably never will. Thanks for the reminder on the neoprene
seal. I will have a good look at that too.

On my first SM I built a rubber dam around the entry area to the inside
of the boat and fitted drain tubes that connected to the anchor locker
drain pipe. This reduced considerably the amount of water ending up
under the floor adjacent to the forward heads.

When the thruster arrangement was re-designed following my sinking, the
later boats have a watertight compartment for the thruster that drains
into the chain locker pipe. End of problem.

I will post my findings when I have dismantled the thruster to see how
the grease worked out. Audibly, it seems fine after almost three years
of use using grease.

Ian Shepherd SM 414 Crusader Built 2003


On 17/07/2012 09:20, Bob Parry wrote:
Hi Ian,

I don't know what you have envisaged about the process that was used in
Yalikivak but we DID NOT remove the foredeck. They removed the bow
thruster
motor to give room to move at the top of the bow thruster (motor was
dismantled) and the whole thing was supported under the boat push against
the action of the jack. The bow thruster was in the up position and they
jacked the top section upwards, hence the need to remove the motor. We
had
the boat for 5 years before we managed to get it fixed. We had tried
everything including the drop method with the only result being
consternation among other people in the boat yard.

We have a rubber seal as well as the foam ones. It is similar to the
seals
used in irrigation systems and it has the "open" side down to stop inflow
of water. Ours had become so bad that we had to put a bulge pump in the
bilge outside the forward head. We have since travelled from Turkey to
Brisbane in Australia and had no water come in until the last leg from
New
Caledonia. It appears that the seal has suffered some damage. Dare say we
will find out during our next haul out.

Regards,

Ann and Bob Parry
Nowornot SM#33

On Tue, Jul 17, 2012 at 4:29 PM, Ian Shepherd<sv_freespirit@yahoo.co.uk
wrote:

**


Hi Bo& Ann,

thanks for the info. I will try Bill's drop suggestion first before
trying to lift the foredeck! I presume by seal you mean the foam seals
that go around the shaft? There is a correct way to fit them as I
believe that one side is harder than the other. Can you please remind me
of the correct way round? I would assume that the hard side is glued to
the top and bottom of the hole and the soft side faces down and up? Or
is it the other way round?

Regards

Ian SM 414 Crusader Built 2003


On 17/07/2012 00:32, Bob Parry wrote:
We had the same problem on our 1990 Super Maramu. It was finally fixed
by
an Englishman and his Turkish assistant in Yalikavak. They removed the
motor to give room at the top and used a hydraulic car jack. The jack
was
inside the boat and the Turkish assistant supported the bottom outside
the
boat. It took a bit of effort but it worked. Whoever serviced it before
we
bought the boat had put a seal in upside down and the steel rim had
corroded and was holding the fibreglass? tube in a vice-like grip.

Good luck with it.
Ann and Bob Parry
Nowornot SM#33 in Brisbane

On Tue, Jul 17, 2012 at 6:38 AM, sv_crusader<sv_freespirit@yahoo.co.uk
wrote:

**

I am having difficulty removing my bow thruster to service it. It
seems
well and truly stuck when I try to pull it out of the boat. I have
sprayed
the tube/motor housing connection with Corrosion Block and other
products
in the hope that it will free up in a few days, but I suspect the
shaft
splines may be corroded despite greasing them the last time it was
assembled.

Has anyone discovered a way of freeing up the unit without doing any
damage? The boat is on the hard (at your last haul out spot Bill&
Judy).
Ian Shepherd SM2000 414 Crusader Built 2003 Med





------------------------------------

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] SM2000 Bow Thruster Removal

Ian Shepherd
 

Hi Richard,

thanks for the info. You say the lip seal should be flat side down which
I take it means spring side up? Someone else has said it should be the
other way round? Does it really matter? Maybe when the bow plunges
downwards the pressure would tighten the seal more if the spring was
facing downwards?

I am also wondering if a rubber boot filled with grease that would grip
the tube just below the motor and cover the sides of the connection
housing would help to reduce the corrosion problem? Another thought is
now that I am using grease instead of oil there is never a need to pour
oil down the tube. I could maybe insert another lip seal near the top of
the tube and pack the area around the spines with grease. The seal would
help retain the grease around the splines.

Regards

Ian Shepherd SM2000 414 Built 2003

On 17/07/2012 12:12, Richard03801 wrote:

Hi get the bow thruster out is many times difficult due to rust on the
spline inside the motorshaft. Be sure all of the "set screws" are out,
spray the tube with a light penetrating oil, put a hose clamp around
so when it comes loose you can control it, disconnect the cables, with
the unit lowered, push it up by hand and pull it down for all you are
worth it will come out.

Installation the lip seal goes on top flat side down one foam ring one
top a soft one. Two foam rings out side hard one nearest the hull soft
one top. Ea e and grease the spline before installing and oil the
outside of the tube push the unit up and put a hose clamp around the
tube so it does not fall out, turn the shaft/prop to align the spline.
We move the hose clamp down the tube to hold things in place while
installing the retaining screws and cables.

That as good as I can do from here good luck.

Regards SM 209 FOR SALE IN Annapolis.

Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

On Jul 16, 2012, at 16:38, "sv_crusader" <sv_freespirit@yahoo.co.uk
<mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk>> wrote:

I am having difficulty removing my bow thruster to service it. It
seems well and truly stuck when I try to pull it out of the boat. I
have sprayed the tube/motor housing connection with Corrosion Block
and other products in the hope that it will free up in a few days, but
I suspect the shaft splines may be corroded despite greasing them the
last time it was assembled.

Has anyone discovered a way of freeing up the unit without doing any
damage? The boat is on the hard (at your last haul out spot Bill & Judy).

Ian Shepherd SM2000 414 Crusader Built 2003 Med









Re: [Amel] SM2000 Bow Thruster Removal

Ian Shepherd
 

Hi Bob,

I was joking when I said lift the foredeck of course! I was just imagining the car jack trying to lift it up as it generated pressure. I hope to start work on the thruster next Saturday when I am back in Cyprus.

As I have filled my thruster with grease instead of oil, it would be possible to do all the servicing without disconnecting from the motor, but I know that if I don't get it apart now and re-grease the splines, then I probably never will. Thanks for the reminder on the neoprene seal. I will have a good look at that too.

On my first SM I built a rubber dam around the entry area to the inside of the boat and fitted drain tubes that connected to the anchor locker drain pipe. This reduced considerably the amount of water ending up under the floor adjacent to the forward heads.

When the thruster arrangement was re-designed following my sinking, the later boats have a watertight compartment for the thruster that drains into the chain locker pipe. End of problem.

I will post my findings when I have dismantled the thruster to see how the grease worked out. Audibly, it seems fine after almost three years of use using grease.

Ian Shepherd SM 414 Crusader Built 2003

On 17/07/2012 09:20, Bob Parry wrote:
Hi Ian,

I don't know what you have envisaged about the process that was used in
Yalikivak but we DID NOT remove the foredeck. They removed the bow thruster
motor to give room to move at the top of the bow thruster (motor was
dismantled) and the whole thing was supported under the boat push against
the action of the jack. The bow thruster was in the up position and they
jacked the top section upwards, hence the need to remove the motor. We had
the boat for 5 years before we managed to get it fixed. We had tried
everything including the drop method with the only result being
consternation among other people in the boat yard.

We have a rubber seal as well as the foam ones. It is similar to the seals
used in irrigation systems and it has the "open" side down to stop inflow
of water. Ours had become so bad that we had to put a bulge pump in the
bilge outside the forward head. We have since travelled from Turkey to
Brisbane in Australia and had no water come in until the last leg from New
Caledonia. It appears that the seal has suffered some damage. Dare say we
will find out during our next haul out.

Regards,

Ann and Bob Parry
Nowornot SM#33

On Tue, Jul 17, 2012 at 4:29 PM, Ian Shepherd<sv_freespirit@yahoo.co.uk>wrote:

**


Hi Bo& Ann,

thanks for the info. I will try Bill's drop suggestion first before
trying to lift the foredeck! I presume by seal you mean the foam seals
that go around the shaft? There is a correct way to fit them as I
believe that one side is harder than the other. Can you please remind me
of the correct way round? I would assume that the hard side is glued to
the top and bottom of the hole and the soft side faces down and up? Or
is it the other way round?

Regards

Ian SM 414 Crusader Built 2003


On 17/07/2012 00:32, Bob Parry wrote:
We had the same problem on our 1990 Super Maramu. It was finally fixed by
an Englishman and his Turkish assistant in Yalikavak. They removed the
motor to give room at the top and used a hydraulic car jack. The jack was
inside the boat and the Turkish assistant supported the bottom outside
the
boat. It took a bit of effort but it worked. Whoever serviced it before
we
bought the boat had put a seal in upside down and the steel rim had
corroded and was holding the fibreglass? tube in a vice-like grip.

Good luck with it.
Ann and Bob Parry
Nowornot SM#33 in Brisbane

On Tue, Jul 17, 2012 at 6:38 AM, sv_crusader<sv_freespirit@yahoo.co.uk
wrote:

**

I am having difficulty removing my bow thruster to service it. It seems
well and truly stuck when I try to pull it out of the boat. I have
sprayed
the tube/motor housing connection with Corrosion Block and other
products
in the hope that it will free up in a few days, but I suspect the shaft
splines may be corroded despite greasing them the last time it was
assembled.

Has anyone discovered a way of freeing up the unit without doing any
damage? The boat is on the hard (at your last haul out spot Bill& Judy).
Ian Shepherd SM2000 414 Crusader Built 2003 Med




------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links






------------------------------------

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Re: [Amel] Re: there are 2 diferent types of foam seals used on the bow thruster

Ian Shepherd
 

Bill,

thanks for the info but I am afraid the link does not work. I will be
back at KGM Saturday as currentlt in the UK picking up a spare SSB as
the installed one has developed a fault.

Regards

Ian SM414 Crusader

On 18/07/2012 06:12, Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe wrote:

Eric,

Yes, there are two different types of foam seals used on the bow
thruster. When I discovered this a few years ago, I re-wrote the BOW
THRUSTER SERVICE by Gary Silver.pdf which was originally written by
you and Gary and posted it in the files section of the Amel website.
Someone moved it to the Miscellaneous folder and it is currently at:
http://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/0EIGUF_yTm7js-FLlJZaHXGZjQcD6ENlTzMPgrXshX91t1Eq0y0AAGOQ4l9po9oqNdqqFxfhhLXj34gyPhZqXfV0K40/Miscellaneous/BOW%20THRUSTER%20SERVICE%20by%20Gary%20Silver.pdf

Amel told me that if you get the seals mixed up, you will get some
water in through the bow thruster. I believe that you can also get
some water by getting the torque on the lifting cable too tight or too
lose. I know that some owners do not use the safety pin, but rather
change the lifting cable adjustment to place more pressure on the
seals when the Bow Thruster is UP. This adjustment changes the seal
when the Bow Thruster is DOWN. And in my opinion, when it is down and
in use you will get water inside if you have the wrong seal, or if you
have incorrectly adjusted the lifting cable.

This is 80% opinion and 20% experience, so please take it as that.

Hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>, Sailormon <kimberlite@...>
wrote:

there are 2 diferent types of foam seals used on the bow thruster.

Dear Eric,



To help you with the foam seals, I have attached a drawing of the
bowthruster showing where they are located. Indeed the neoprene
seals are
located outside the hull and the natural seal sits inside the boat.
Please
tell me how many of each I should put in the shipment.

Thank you.



Best regards,



Maud/Chantiers AMEL Customer service

sav@...









Re: there are 2 diferent types of foam seals used on the bow thruster

Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Eric,

Yes, there are two different types of foam seals used on the bow thruster. When I discovered this a few years ago, I re-wrote the BOW THRUSTER SERVICE by Gary Silver.pdf which was originally written by you and Gary and posted it in the files section of the Amel website. Someone moved it to the Miscellaneous folder and it is currently at: http://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/0EIGUF_yTm7js-FLlJZaHXGZjQcD6ENlTzMPgrXshX91t1Eq0y0AAGOQ4l9po9oqNdqqFxfhhLXj34gyPhZqXfV0K40/Miscellaneous/BOW%20THRUSTER%20SERVICE%20by%20Gary%20Silver.pdf

Amel told me that if you get the seals mixed up, you will get some water in through the bow thruster. I believe that you can also get some water by getting the torque on the lifting cable too tight or too lose. I know that some owners do not use the safety pin, but rather change the lifting cable adjustment to place more pressure on the seals when the Bow Thruster is UP. This adjustment changes the seal when the Bow Thruster is DOWN. And in my opinion, when it is down and in use you will get water inside if you have the wrong seal, or if you have incorrectly adjusted the lifting cable.

This is 80% opinion and 20% experience, so please take it as that.

Hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Sailormon <kimberlite@...> wrote:

there are 2 diferent types of foam seals used on the bow thruster.

Dear Eric,



To help you with the foam seals, I have attached a drawing of the
bowthruster showing where they are located. Indeed the neoprene seals are
located outside the hull and the natural seal sits inside the boat. Please
tell me how many of each I should put in the shipment.

Thank you.



Best regards,



Maud/Chantiers AMEL Customer service

sav@...







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


[Amel] Re: New motor

Barbara Nairne
 

Hi all,
The continuing Saga of C-drive and our new motor.
We now have a price from Amel who luckily are going to build us a complete new Drive. This new drive is capable of taking the 110hp motor.
Does anyone know whether our existing 22" blade Classic Maxprop will be suitable or whether a larger prop would be required with the 110hp Yanmar?

The mechanic is also asking what ratio gearbox others who aleady have the 110hp Yanmar have chosen,

This boat may get back in the water SOOOOOOON!!!!!!


Regards
Barb
Sueno Azul
Super Maramu No.39
1991 Model (with all new stuff)

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Barbara Nairne <surfskis2002@...> wrote:

Hi All,
 
Thank you so much for your replies.
Yes, I did get all the instructions from the files section but I just don't have the ability to do anything like this myself, so qualified marine mechanic has always been employed - and parts from Amel. (I even have a spare set of bearings and rubber bits).
 
I do have the schematic drawing and have given that to the present mechanic.
 
He is adamant that he needs to get the C-drive dismanted to "fix it" - he is of the opinion that the carbon fibre casing has fused with the iron inside the drive, and the two rubber rings at the bottom need replacing. It has salt water in the top end (also need new bearing(s) and salt water in the bottom end.
 
He applied 6 tons of pressure and was still unable to get the thing apart.
 
I am going to study everyting again over this weekend - have just driven back home (Sunshine Coast).
 
I really am trying to understand my boat (unfortunately Paul does not wish to).
 
Regards
Barb
Sueno Azu
No.39 Super Maramu Number 39
Gold Coast (Southport Marina)
QLD
Australia

--- On Fri, 8/6/12, Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...> wrote:


From: Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
Subject: [Amel] Re: New motor
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Received: Friday, 8 June, 2012, 4:31 PM



 



Barb,

You and Paul need to chill for a few minutes. Your Amel needs to be understood, not criticized.

The seals and wear bearing are normal items to be replaced. We do it every time we haul out. Go to the Files section of this website for instructions of how to do it. They are located at: http://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/4JTRT4LTJsFiLpA_BVTj-1dx-NYMA2xR4e_tc_wo8dcll2CMrYDH4hTKCCjW0khLurI-3EBH7blGCvTnWLpWcduwbYM/C%20Drive%20%26%20Propeller%20Shaft%2C/Shaft%20Bushing%20and%20Seals%20Replacement.pdf

Mechanics that are not familiar with something generally are critical of what they do not understand...it is their defense mechanism. The Amel C Drive is thousands of times better than a Yanmar sail drive...and remove the C Drive and replace it with a sail drive and you converted your asset to junk!

Did you follow the instructions in the Files section )link above)?
If you did not do it yourself, are you absolutely sure it was done correctly?
Were the parts sourced from Amel?
Were the seals orientated correctly?
You said you replaced the seals, did you replace the wear bushing and its O ring as well.
Are you sure that every last bit of water was flushed when you changed the seals?
Did you inspect or replace the O ring on the C drive drain plug?
Where are you located? You should add your location to every posting...there may be someone nearby that can help.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Fethiye, Turkey

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Barbara Nairne <surfskis2002@> wrote:

Hi,
Because we had some salt water in the C-drive the mechanic is concerned that the bottom seals of the C-drive should be replaced. We have done the prop seals 4 months ago.
 
We are now looking at putting it together and doing a pressure test to see if there is a leak - and if so replacing with a Yanmar sail drive!!!
 
Hopefully I will get on top of this as Paul wants nothing further to do with this boat!!!
 
Regards
Barb
Sueno Azul
Super Maramu No 39


--- On Fri, 8/6/12, karkauai@ <karkauai@> wrote:


From: karkauai@ <karkauai@>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: New motor
To: "amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Received: Friday, 8 June, 2012, 12:42 PM


I don't know how different the alignment will bebetween the Perkins and the Yanmar, b ut on SM 243 the alignment was very nearly the same between the Volvo and the Yanmar.  He dropped the new Yanmar in, shimmed it a little| and voila! Perfect fit.  The vertical edge of the angle iron support had to be trimmed to allow the oil filter to fit.

Kent
1999 SM243
KRISTY

Sent from my BlackBerry® smartphone powered by Alltel

-----Original Message-----
From: "Barb" <surfskis2002@>
Sender: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thu, 07 Jun 2012 22:07:28
To: <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Re: New motor





Hi all,
We now have the Perkins M80T out of the boat. The Yanmar mechanic has struck a problem. He cannot remove the top of the C drive so he can take it back to his workshop and align with the new Yanmar gearbox.
He is talking about cutting the casing so he can get to it - but of course as usual it's up to me to decide.


Any advice as to how anyone else managed their alignment of the C drive to the gearbox would be appreciated.

We are installing a 75hp Yanmar 4JH4-TE with the ZF 15MV which has the 2.718 ratio.

Thanks
Barb
Sueno Azul
No.39
Super Maramu No.39

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@> wrote:

Hi all, have to agree Bill that this could be a factor. Recently I saw a "red line" SM out of the water. I understand these were among the last SMs built. The auto prop on it was much larger than mine so I would assume that it has the 110 hp engine with a drive train and propellor to match.  
Regards
Danny
SM 299 Ocean Pearl
Mangonui
New Zealand

From: Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, 17 May 2012 5:47 PM
Subject: [Amel] Re: New motor


 

I assume this is the root cause of the two recent C-drive failures.

Bill
BeBe SM2k #387
Turkey

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Barb" <surfskis2002@> wrote:

Hi all,
Just info for anhyone else needing to repower an earlier model Super Maramu - below info from Maud


After investigation we have found that you have the first version of cast iron drive unit and since then they have been upgraded and strengthened. Therefore the drive is not capable of taking a 110hp Yanmar engine.

The recommended power handling is 83 HP at 1000 rpm i.e.580 N/M.



We hope the information will help your mechanical engineer.

Barb
Sueno Azul
Super Maramu No.39
1991 Model








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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Dessalator 700 GPD watermaker

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

I just had one turned up by a local engineering firm made from material that they identified from the original and sourced. Goo quick result. Same form turned a new wearing bearing forthe prop shaft for me.
Danny
SM 299 Ocean Pearl
Curently Nukuolofa TongA


________________________________
From: sy INDECENT <gmcerillo@yahoo.com>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, 14 July 2012 3:27 AM
Subject: [Amel] Dessalator 700 GPD watermaker


 
Does anyone know where the end caps for the Dessalator 700 GPD watermaker can purchased besides Dessalator? On the photos posted by Gary Silver #335 Liahona and revised in 2007, there is mention of "Serto Brand plastic couplings".

I sourced the membranes for $187.50 each on Amazon, however the end caps and bobbin (through Greatwater) are very, very expensive as well as the original quote from them I recieved for the membranes.

Any help would be appreciated.

Kim and George Cerillo

SM2K #353 Indecent


Re: [Amel] Re: Replacement for Metal Furling Rod

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Yes this is caused by the spare halyard twisting around it, can cause more damage too. Took me months to work out what was happening, it can actually prevent the sail furling, not what you want in a tight situation.  I now always tie it forward on the pulpit when sailing.
Regards
Danny
SM 299 Ocean Pearl
 
Currently Nukualofa
Tonga 


________________________________
From: seafeverofcuan <seafeverofcuan@yahoo.com>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, 11 July 2012 11:10 PM
Subject: [Amel] Re: Replacement for Metal Furling Rod


 

Hi Denamarie,
the item you are referring to is called "horns" and Amel normally have them in stock. However it is easy to get one, or even better two, made by any local engineering shop.
I had one made in Antigua in January for us $65.
It has always baffled me how they get bent, I have noticed once or twice that my spare halyard
tends to twist around the port one.
I hope this is of some help.
Fair winds
Trevor Lusty

Sea Fever of Cuan
Super Maramu
425

Papagayos Marina
Costa Rica




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Response from the new Nirvana Spars company

Dave_Benjamin
 

A while back I reported that Nirvana was back in business making yacht spars. I emailed them to find out what if any support they could offer Amel owners with the older Nirvana spars (before Amel took over spar manufacturing). Unfortunately since all of the dies and tooling went to Amel after Nirvana ceased operations, there is not much they can offer. They do have some older drawings though and could potentially answer questions.

I'm wondering if there is an Amel owner in Europe with access to a good scanner. Perhaps we could arrange to get access to the drawings.


Re: leather cover on companionway grip

Dave_Benjamin
 

If it's in good condition I wouldn't replace it. You could try restitching it more tightly. When you sew leather, you want to wet it enough that it stretches somewhat. As it dries it shrinks and you get a firm fit. If it already appears tightly stitched, I would trim it. To do that, you'll want to use a metal yardstick or similar as a guide.

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Sailormon <kimberlite@...> wrote:

I have had a constant problem with the leather grip covering the handle
running along the companionway steps.

It now slides down after a while and is wrinkled. I have to constantly slide
it up back into place. There is also a lump in the leather, I guess from
some of the white tape that bunched up under the leather. Any solution
besides replacing it?

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


leather cover on companionway grip

Eric Freedman
 

I have had a constant problem with the leather grip covering the handle
running along the companionway steps.

It now slides down after a while and is wrinkled. I have to constantly slide
it up back into place. There is also a lump in the leather, I guess from
some of the white tape that bunched up under the leather. Any solution
besides replacing it?

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite


leather cover on companionway grip

Eric Freedman
 

I have had a constant problem with the leather grip covering the handle
running along the companionway steps.

It now slides down after a while and is wrinkled. I have to constantly slide
it up back into place. There is also a lump in the leather, I guess from
some of the white tape that bunched up under the leather. Any solution
besides replacing it?

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite


there are 2 diferent types of foam seals used on the bow thruster

Eric Freedman
 

there are 2 diferent types of foam seals used on the bow thruster.

Dear Eric,



To help you with the foam seals, I have attached a drawing of the
bowthruster showing where they are located. Indeed the neoprene seals are
located outside the hull and the natural seal sits inside the boat. Please
tell me how many of each I should put in the shipment.

Thank you.



Best regards,



Maud/Chantiers AMEL Customer service

sav@amel.fr


Re: [Amel] SM2000 Bow Thruster Removal

Eric Freedman
 

Hi,

I put 2 foam seals on both sides of the bow thruster,

Sems to keep the water out better when the thruster is down.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Richard03801
Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2012 8:12 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel] SM2000 Bow Thruster Removal





Hi get the bow thruster out is many times difficult due to rust on the
spline inside the motorshaft. Be sure all of the "set screws" are out, spray
the tube with a light penetrating oil, put a hose clamp around so when it
comes loose you can control it, disconnect the cables, with the unit
lowered, push it up by hand and pull it down for all you are worth it will
come out.

Installation the lip seal goes on top flat side down one foam ring one top a
soft one. Two foam rings out side hard one nearest the hull soft one top. Ea
e and grease the spline before installing and oil the outside of the tube
push the unit up and put a hose clamp around the tube so it does not fall
out, turn the shaft/prop to align the spline. We move the hose clamp down
the tube to hold things in place while installing the retaining screws and
cables.

That as good as I can do from here good luck.

Regards SM 209 FOR SALE IN Annapolis.

Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

On Jul 16, 2012, at 16:38, "sv_crusader" <sv_freespirit@yahoo.co.uk
<mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk> > wrote:

I am having difficulty removing my bow thruster to service it. It seems
well and truly stuck when I try to pull it out of the boat. I have sprayed
the tube/motor housing connection with Corrosion Block and other products in
the hope that it will free up in a few days, but I suspect the shaft splines
may be corroded despite greasing them the last time it was assembled.

Has anyone discovered a way of freeing up the unit without doing any
damage? The boat is on the hard (at your last haul out spot Bill & Judy).

Ian Shepherd SM2000 414 Crusader Built 2003 Med







Re: [Amel] SM2000 Bow Thruster Removal

Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

Hi get the bow thruster out is many times difficult due to rust on the spline inside the motorshaft. Be sure all of the "set screws" are out, spray the tube with a light penetrating oil, put a hose clamp around so when it comes loose you can control it, disconnect the cables, with the unit lowered, push it up by hand and pull it down for all you are worth it will come out.

Installation the lip seal goes on top flat side down one foam ring one top a soft one. Two foam rings out side hard one nearest the hull soft one top. Ea e and grease the spline before installing and oil the outside of the tube push the unit up and put a hose clamp around the tube so it does not fall out, turn the shaft/prop to align the spline. We move the hose clamp down the tube to hold things in place while installing the retaining screws and cables.

That as good as I can do from here good luck.

Regards SM 209 FOR SALE IN Annapolis.

Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

On Jul 16, 2012, at 16:38, "sv_crusader" <sv_freespirit@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:

I am having difficulty removing my bow thruster to service it. It seems well and truly stuck when I try to pull it out of the boat. I have sprayed the tube/motor housing connection with Corrosion Block and other products in the hope that it will free up in a few days, but I suspect the shaft splines may be corroded despite greasing them the last time it was assembled.

Has anyone discovered a way of freeing up the unit without doing any damage? The boat is on the hard (at your last haul out spot Bill & Judy).

Ian Shepherd SM2000 414 Crusader Built 2003 Med







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] SM2000 Bow Thruster Removal

Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Ian,

In my original posting I should have said that I used the drop method once on BeBe and once on another boat. One and a half years later while dropping the bow thruster in the water to replace a prop, I have no problems with sticking.

Good luck and I am glad to hear that things are going well at Karpaz. Be sure to say hello to Deniz and "Efe."

Bill

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Ian Shepherd <sv_freespirit@...> wrote:

Hi Bill,

thanks for the suggestion. I will try the 'drop method'. Corrosion
Block market an anti corrosive grease that I will use when
re-assembling. Should be back in the water in 10 days. Weather too hot
to antifoul more than 3 hours a day.

The staff there are being wonderful. Arrived 11pm Sunday. There was a
man waiting on the dock signalling with a torch, security gate pass and
shore power organised, and a warm welcome. Not like Jounieh Beirut!

Hope you are having a great time.

Regards

Ian SM 2000 414 Crusader

On 17/07/2012 04:54, Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe wrote:

Ian,

Personal Experience:
Go to this link:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1587075684/pic/549533960/view?picmode=large&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1587075684/pic/549533960/view?picmode=large&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc>

More info at this link:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1587075684/pic/list

My guess is that sea water is passing through the foam seals causing
corrosion. When you get them lose, clean and use mass quantities of
waterproof grease at the union.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Selimye, Turkey

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>, Bob Parry <ra.parry2@>
wrote:

We had the same problem on our 1990 Super Maramu. It was finally
fixed by
an Englishman and his Turkish assistant in Yalikavak. They removed the
motor to give room at the top and used a hydraulic car jack. The
jack was
inside the boat and the Turkish assistant supported the bottom
outside the
boat. It took a bit of effort but it worked. Whoever serviced it
before we
bought the boat had put a seal in upside down and the steel rim had
corroded and was holding the fibreglass? tube in a vice-like grip.

Good luck with it.
Ann and Bob Parry
Nowornot SM#33 in Brisbane

On Tue, Jul 17, 2012 at 6:38 AM, sv_crusader <sv_freespirit@>wrote:

**


I am having difficulty removing my bow thruster to service it. It
seems
well and truly stuck when I try to pull it out of the boat. I have
sprayed
the tube/motor housing connection with Corrosion Block and other
products
in the hope that it will free up in a few days, but I suspect the
shaft
splines may be corroded despite greasing them the last time it was
assembled.

Has anyone discovered a way of freeing up the unit without doing any
damage? The boat is on the hard (at your last haul out spot Bill &
Judy).

Ian Shepherd SM2000 414 Crusader Built 2003 Med



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] SM2000 Bow Thruster Removal

bobparry1947
 

Hi Ian,

I don't know what you have envisaged about the process that was used in
Yalikivak but we DID NOT remove the foredeck. They removed the bow thruster
motor to give room to move at the top of the bow thruster (motor was
dismantled) and the whole thing was supported under the boat push against
the action of the jack. The bow thruster was in the up position and they
jacked the top section upwards, hence the need to remove the motor. We had
the boat for 5 years before we managed to get it fixed. We had tried
everything including the drop method with the only result being
consternation among other people in the boat yard.

We have a rubber seal as well as the foam ones. It is similar to the seals
used in irrigation systems and it has the "open" side down to stop inflow
of water. Ours had become so bad that we had to put a bulge pump in the
bilge outside the forward head. We have since travelled from Turkey to
Brisbane in Australia and had no water come in until the last leg from New
Caledonia. It appears that the seal has suffered some damage. Dare say we
will find out during our next haul out.

Regards,

Ann and Bob Parry
Nowornot SM#33

On Tue, Jul 17, 2012 at 4:29 PM, Ian Shepherd <sv_freespirit@yahoo.co.uk>wrote:

**


Hi Bo & Ann,

thanks for the info. I will try Bill's drop suggestion first before
trying to lift the foredeck! I presume by seal you mean the foam seals
that go around the shaft? There is a correct way to fit them as I
believe that one side is harder than the other. Can you please remind me
of the correct way round? I would assume that the hard side is glued to
the top and bottom of the hole and the soft side faces down and up? Or
is it the other way round?

Regards

Ian SM 414 Crusader Built 2003


On 17/07/2012 00:32, Bob Parry wrote:
We had the same problem on our 1990 Super Maramu. It was finally fixed by
an Englishman and his Turkish assistant in Yalikavak. They removed the
motor to give room at the top and used a hydraulic car jack. The jack was
inside the boat and the Turkish assistant supported the bottom outside
the
boat. It took a bit of effort but it worked. Whoever serviced it before
we
bought the boat had put a seal in upside down and the steel rim had
corroded and was holding the fibreglass? tube in a vice-like grip.

Good luck with it.
Ann and Bob Parry
Nowornot SM#33 in Brisbane

On Tue, Jul 17, 2012 at 6:38 AM, sv_crusader<sv_freespirit@yahoo.co.uk
wrote:

**


I am having difficulty removing my bow thruster to service it. It seems
well and truly stuck when I try to pull it out of the boat. I have
sprayed
the tube/motor housing connection with Corrosion Block and other
products
in the hope that it will free up in a few days, but I suspect the shaft
splines may be corroded despite greasing them the last time it was
assembled.

Has anyone discovered a way of freeing up the unit without doing any
damage? The boat is on the hard (at your last haul out spot Bill& Judy).

Ian Shepherd SM2000 414 Crusader Built 2003 Med


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] SM2000 Bow Thruster Removal

Ian Shepherd
 

Hi Bo & Ann,

thanks for the info. I will try Bill's drop suggestion first before trying to lift the foredeck! I presume by seal you mean the foam seals that go around the shaft? There is a correct way to fit them as I believe that one side is harder than the other. Can you please remind me of the correct way round? I would assume that the hard side is glued to the top and bottom of the hole and the soft side faces down and up? Or is it the other way round?

Regards

Ian SM 414 Crusader Built 2003

On 17/07/2012 00:32, Bob Parry wrote:
We had the same problem on our 1990 Super Maramu. It was finally fixed by
an Englishman and his Turkish assistant in Yalikavak. They removed the
motor to give room at the top and used a hydraulic car jack. The jack was
inside the boat and the Turkish assistant supported the bottom outside the
boat. It took a bit of effort but it worked. Whoever serviced it before we
bought the boat had put a seal in upside down and the steel rim had
corroded and was holding the fibreglass? tube in a vice-like grip.

Good luck with it.
Ann and Bob Parry
Nowornot SM#33 in Brisbane

On Tue, Jul 17, 2012 at 6:38 AM, sv_crusader<sv_freespirit@yahoo.co.uk>wrote:

**


I am having difficulty removing my bow thruster to service it. It seems
well and truly stuck when I try to pull it out of the boat. I have sprayed
the tube/motor housing connection with Corrosion Block and other products
in the hope that it will free up in a few days, but I suspect the shaft
splines may be corroded despite greasing them the last time it was
assembled.

Has anyone discovered a way of freeing up the unit without doing any
damage? The boat is on the hard (at your last haul out spot Bill& Judy).

Ian Shepherd SM2000 414 Crusader Built 2003 Med





------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links




Re: [Amel] SM2000 Bow Thruster Removal

Ian Shepherd
 

Hi Bill,

thanks for the suggestion. I will try the 'drop method'. Corrosion
Block market an anti corrosive grease that I will use when
re-assembling. Should be back in the water in 10 days. Weather too hot
to antifoul more than 3 hours a day.

The staff there are being wonderful. Arrived 11pm Sunday. There was a
man waiting on the dock signalling with a torch, security gate pass and
shore power organised, and a warm welcome. Not like Jounieh Beirut!

Hope you are having a great time.

Regards

Ian SM 2000 414 Crusader

On 17/07/2012 04:54, Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe wrote:

Ian,

Personal Experience:
Go to this link:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1587075684/pic/549533960/view?picmode=large&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1587075684/pic/549533960/view?picmode=large&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc>

More info at this link:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1587075684/pic/list

My guess is that sea water is passing through the foam seals causing
corrosion. When you get them lose, clean and use mass quantities of
waterproof grease at the union.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Selimye, Turkey

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>, Bob Parry <ra.parry2@...>
wrote:

We had the same problem on our 1990 Super Maramu. It was finally
fixed by
an Englishman and his Turkish assistant in Yalikavak. They removed the
motor to give room at the top and used a hydraulic car jack. The
jack was
inside the boat and the Turkish assistant supported the bottom
outside the
boat. It took a bit of effort but it worked. Whoever serviced it
before we
bought the boat had put a seal in upside down and the steel rim had
corroded and was holding the fibreglass? tube in a vice-like grip.

Good luck with it.
Ann and Bob Parry
Nowornot SM#33 in Brisbane

On Tue, Jul 17, 2012 at 6:38 AM, sv_crusader <sv_freespirit@...>wrote:

**


I am having difficulty removing my bow thruster to service it. It
seems
well and truly stuck when I try to pull it out of the boat. I have
sprayed
the tube/motor housing connection with Corrosion Block and other
products
in the hope that it will free up in a few days, but I suspect the
shaft
splines may be corroded despite greasing them the last time it was
assembled.

Has anyone discovered a way of freeing up the unit without doing any
damage? The boat is on the hard (at your last haul out spot Bill &
Judy).

Ian Shepherd SM2000 414 Crusader Built 2003 Med