Date   

Re: [Amel] SM2000 Bow Thruster Removal

Ian Shepherd
 

Hi Bob,

it did not go well. In fact it took one and a half days to remove the bow thruster despite being soaked in Corrosion Block and other lubes for almost a week before we tried to remove it. Here is the saga and a sure way to get it out next time.

First we tried the drop method mentioned on this site. The only success we had with this technique was to splinter the trunk fibreglass and remove the skin off my hands!

Then we tied one end of a rope to the thruster just above the gearbox and tied the other end to a 6 foot steel square sectioned tube. One end of the tube tucked under the forward hull support trestle. Downward pressure and several persuasive beatings with a wooden block did move it about 3/16th of an inch but no further. Just enough in fact so that the securing pins would not go back in, leaving the boat unusable. No turning back now. More solvent, more beatings but no more movement. The end of the day came and I retired to bed to lick my wounds and curse this bow thruster even more than I have in the past.

Next morning, thinking that the splines on the drive shaft must have corroded, I decided to dismantle the gearbox so that we could withdraw the tube downwards and the motor and shaft upwards. Having removed the prop shaft and major planet gear wheel, the drive shaft then dropped down an inch, so obviously it was not the splines causing the trouble but the fibre tube stuck to the inside of the motor housing despite being well greased as were the splines when I last serviced the unit.

It was now clear that we had to twist the motor relative to the shaft. To do this, we removed the ant-torque plate from the underside of the motor and repositioned it 90 degrees anticlockwise so that the two prongs faced aft into the cabin. (You will have to move the bolt that does not hold the plate to the motor one step anticlockwise too so that it aligns with the hole in the plate). - For those who do not have this plate, then you are out of luck. It was added to the design after my sinking to stop the bow thruster tube failing. Amel rightly made modification kits for all SM's fitted with the larger motor, and if you don't have one, then I would thoroughly recommend getting one. For two reasons now.

We found a 3 foot tube that fitted over the anti-torque plate prongs and tried to twist the motor against the tube. After a huge amount of effort and and extension bar, we moved it a little then sprayed more lube in though the locking pin holes. Gradually it freed up some more, but the thruster still refused to pull free despite the leverage of the 6 foot bar beneath. After many futile attempts I got the mechanic to twist the motor whilst I put all of my weight on the bar below and eventually we got the bow thruster out. This method will work, providing you have the means to twist the motor.

Examination of the tube revealed no pitting and there was very little rust on the inside of the motor housing. I believe that it was just made too tight. It always was very difficult to locate the tube in the fully home position in the motor housing. There was no rust on the motor lower bearing, or the splines, both being well greased.

As a precaution I have ground out the inside of the motor housing using my Dremmel so that the fit is now more agricultural and less prone to seizure. I will also reassemble it with Corrosion Block anti corrosion grease instead of plain water proof grease once the trunk fibreglass repair is complete. Hopefully such a nightmare will not happen again. Maybe a contributary factor is that since modifying the bow thruster to run in grease with sealed bearings, it has not been necessary to remove it so frequently to get rid of the mayonnaise. The last removal was almost three years ago. (See next post).

Ian Shepherd SM2000 #414 Built 2003 Location Mediterranean

On 18/07/2012 08:17, Bob Parry wrote:
Hi Ian,

Good luck with it. As you can imagine, the oil in ours was like mayonnaise.
It still worked well and sounded fine but it was probably on a short fuse.
We don't know why it started to leak on our way from New Caledonia but it
seems logical that the seal was somehow damaged when we went to the fuel
dock. Up until then, it had been bone dry.

Hope all goes well. We will be interested to hear how it went.

Regards,

Ann and Bob
Nowornot SM#33

On Wed, Jul 18, 2012 at 5:46 PM, Ian Shepherd <sv_freespirit@yahoo.co.uk>wrote:

**


Hi Bob,

I was joking when I said lift the foredeck of course! I was just
imagining the car jack trying to lift it up as it generated pressure. I
hope to start work on the thruster next Saturday when I am back in Cyprus.

As I have filled my thruster with grease instead of oil, it would be
possible to do all the servicing without disconnecting from the motor,
but I know that if I don't get it apart now and re-grease the splines,
then I probably never will. Thanks for the reminder on the neoprene
seal. I will have a good look at that too.

On my first SM I built a rubber dam around the entry area to the inside
of the boat and fitted drain tubes that connected to the anchor locker
drain pipe. This reduced considerably the amount of water ending up
under the floor adjacent to the forward heads.

When the thruster arrangement was re-designed following my sinking, the
later boats have a watertight compartment for the thruster that drains
into the chain locker pipe. End of problem.

I will post my findings when I have dismantled the thruster to see how
the grease worked out. Audibly, it seems fine after almost three years
of use using grease.

Ian Shepherd SM 414 Crusader Built 2003


On 17/07/2012 09:20, Bob Parry wrote:
Hi Ian,

I don't know what you have envisaged about the process that was used in
Yalikivak but we DID NOT remove the foredeck. They removed the bow
thruster
motor to give room to move at the top of the bow thruster (motor was
dismantled) and the whole thing was supported under the boat push against
the action of the jack. The bow thruster was in the up position and they
jacked the top section upwards, hence the need to remove the motor. We
had
the boat for 5 years before we managed to get it fixed. We had tried
everything including the drop method with the only result being
consternation among other people in the boat yard.

We have a rubber seal as well as the foam ones. It is similar to the
seals
used in irrigation systems and it has the "open" side down to stop inflow
of water. Ours had become so bad that we had to put a bulge pump in the
bilge outside the forward head. We have since travelled from Turkey to
Brisbane in Australia and had no water come in until the last leg from
New
Caledonia. It appears that the seal has suffered some damage. Dare say we
will find out during our next haul out.

Regards,

Ann and Bob Parry
Nowornot SM#33

On Tue, Jul 17, 2012 at 4:29 PM, Ian Shepherd<sv_freespirit@yahoo.co.uk
wrote:

**


Hi Bo& Ann,
thanks for the info. I will try Bill's drop suggestion first before
trying to lift the foredeck! I presume by seal you mean the foam seals
that go around the shaft? There is a correct way to fit them as I
believe that one side is harder than the other. Can you please remind me
of the correct way round? I would assume that the hard side is glued to
the top and bottom of the hole and the soft side faces down and up? Or
is it the other way round?

Regards

Ian SM 414 Crusader Built 2003


On 17/07/2012 00:32, Bob Parry wrote:
We had the same problem on our 1990 Super Maramu. It was finally fixed
by
an Englishman and his Turkish assistant in Yalikavak. They removed the
motor to give room at the top and used a hydraulic car jack. The jack
was
inside the boat and the Turkish assistant supported the bottom outside
the
boat. It took a bit of effort but it worked. Whoever serviced it before
we
bought the boat had put a seal in upside down and the steel rim had
corroded and was holding the fibreglass? tube in a vice-like grip.

Good luck with it.
Ann and Bob Parry
Nowornot SM#33 in Brisbane

On Tue, Jul 17, 2012 at 6:38 AM, sv_crusader<sv_freespirit@yahoo.co.uk
wrote:

**

I am having difficulty removing my bow thruster to service it. It
seems
well and truly stuck when I try to pull it out of the boat. I have
sprayed
the tube/motor housing connection with Corrosion Block and other
products
in the hope that it will free up in a few days, but I suspect the
shaft
splines may be corroded despite greasing them the last time it was
assembled.

Has anyone discovered a way of freeing up the unit without doing any
damage? The boat is on the hard (at your last haul out spot Bill&
Judy).
Ian Shepherd SM2000 414 Crusader Built 2003 Med




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Re: [Amel] 2 diferent types of foam seals used on the bow thruster

Ian Shepherd
 

Bill,

I have now checked my stock of spare foam seals. If you look carefully,
two are made of a more dense foam than the third. As you say, the two
denser ones are glued onto the base of the thruster tube, and the less
dense one is glued on the top side of the hole.

Still not sure which is the best way up for the tube to hole in the boat
lip seal. I noticed my spare from Amel does not have a spring in it,
therefore it may work better with the lip facing downwards so that any
surge tightens the seal.

Deniz and Efe say hello. They look forwards to your return.

Ian

On 22/07/2012 16:29, Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe wrote:

Ian,

A close examination of the seals should prove that 1 of the 3 is
different. This is the one that goes inside the boat.

The following I copied from BOW THRUSTER SERVICE by Gary Silver.pdf
which you can download on the Amel Owners website under Files >>
Miscellaneous

Portion Copied follows:
Remove the inside foam seal and the two foam seals adhered to the
top of the rectangular anti-torque cap of the bow thruster. (These are
held in place by contact cement) Note added by BeBe: the 1 "inside
foam seal" is different from the "two foam seals." Examine the new
foam seals carefully and you will see the difference. The two like
foam seals go together outside and on top of the rectangular
anti-torque cap.

8. To replace the trunk lip seal, remove the two screws and retaining
washers from the top of the bow thruster trunk. Use a screwdriver to
collapse this seal or try carefully prying it out. It is a very loose fit.
a. When installing the new lip seal, pack it with grease, press it
into its recess using RTV to seal it and hold it. Replace the
retaining screws and washers.
9. To remove the prop shaft lip seal you may need a slide hammer and
very tiny screws. It is difficult to drill into this seal without the
drill slipping off and damaging the fiberglass recess, so use a 1/16th
inch drill and drill really slowly to avoid slipping off. Once two
screws are threaded into this seal a slide hammer easily removes it.
10. Seal this new seal into place with RTV as well. It is a tighter
fit than the upper seal but still relatively loose compared to the
main prop shaft seal.
<<<Added May 2012>>>
"With the (bow thruster prop shaft) seal pushed in further now not
even a hint of oil moisture coming through after 2.5 hrs with only the
correct SAE90 gear oil in.

Note from: Colin Streeter Island Pearl II - SM2k #332 "What we did is
carefully but pretty firmly pressed the new seal in (with the flat
edge of a file) so that it has gone about 3mm beyond level with the
outer edge. In this position it cannot go any further in and it now
has a perfect seal."

Hope this helps,

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>, Ian Shepherd
<sv_freespirit@...> wrote:

Thanks Bill,

it worked this time, but no mention is made as to which type of foam
seal goes where assuming my spares kit has two types, which I
believe it
does, nor which way up the tube lip seal should go. As I am in Larnaca
it is hard to envisage whether it really matters, but I will be at the
boat tomorrow.

Regards

Ian

On 18/07/2012 15:44, Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe wrote:

Ian,

Go to the website for Amel Owners Group. Be sure to sign-in to your
Yahoo account (probably the reason it did not work for you earlier).
Go to Files >>> Miscellaneous >>> BOW THRUSTER SERVICE by Gary
Silver.pdf

That should do you.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>, Ian Shepherd
<sv_freespirit@> wrote:

Bill,

thanks for the info but I am afraid the link does not work. I
will be
back at KGM Saturday as currentlt in the UK picking up a spare
SSB as
the installed one has developed a fault.

Regards

Ian SM414 Crusader

On 18/07/2012 06:12, Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe wrote:

Eric,

Yes, there are two different types of foam seals used on the bow
thruster. When I discovered this a few years ago, I re-wrote
the BOW
THRUSTER SERVICE by Gary Silver.pdf which was originally
written by
you and Gary and posted it in the files section of the Amel
website.
Someone moved it to the Miscellaneous folder and it is
currently at:
http://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/0EIGUF_yTm7js-FLlJZaHXGZjQcD6ENlTzMPgrXshX91t1Eq0y0AAGOQ4l9po9oqNdqqFxfhhLXj34gyPhZqXfV0K40/Miscellaneous/BOW%20THRUSTER%20SERVICE%20by%20Gary%20Silver.pdf

Amel told me that if you get the seals mixed up, you will get some
water in through the bow thruster. I believe that you can also get
some water by getting the torque on the lifting cable too
tight or
too
lose. I know that some owners do not use the safety pin, but
rather
change the lifting cable adjustment to place more pressure on the
seals when the Bow Thruster is UP. This adjustment changes the
seal
when the Bow Thruster is DOWN. And in my opinion, when it is
down and
in use you will get water inside if you have the wrong seal,
or if
you
have incorrectly adjusted the lifting cable.

This is 80% opinion and 20% experience, so please take it as that.

Hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>, Sailormon
<kimberlite@>
wrote:

there are 2 diferent types of foam seals used on the bow
thruster.

Dear Eric,



To help you with the foam seals, I have attached a drawing
of the
bowthruster showing where they are located. Indeed the neoprene
seals are
located outside the hull and the natural seal sits inside
the boat.
Please
tell me how many of each I should put in the shipment.

Thank you.



Best regards,



Maud/Chantiers AMEL Customer service

sav@














Re: [Amel] test from store

Joe and Martha
 

It works.


Joe and Martha, s/v WASABI

-----Original Message-----
From: kimberlite <kimberlite@optonline.net>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tue, Jul 24, 2012 6:40 pm
Subject: [Amel] test from store





This is a test of the store account

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


test from store

Eric Freedman
 

This is a test of the store account


testing again

Eric Freedman
 


Re: [Amel] Re: Navigation station seating addition

Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

On both our maramu and SM we got

Regards

Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

On Jul 24, 2012, at 4:41, "Anne and John Hollamby" <annejohnholl@gmail.com> wrote:

I changed the helmsmans and the nav seats using Softrider pedestals made in New Zealand. These are the only ones I have ever seen to have gas filled struts to raise/lower and to move the seat backwards and forwards as well as swivelling.See them on Google and in the photos section under SM319 Bali Hai Changes. That photo album is one of the first and is best found by clicking on “first” and then “previous” or by finding under “list”.The actual seats are standard found in most big chandleries.The table mount is Logun a Swedish fitting also widely available.

Regards, Anne and John Bali Hai, SM319 Sicily

From: Dave_Benjamin
Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2012 5:50 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Re: Navigation station seating addition

I had Garhauer make a spring loaded chair mount for our Maramu. We don't have as much space as the SM for a permanently mounted chair so I wanted something that tucked against the bulkhead when not in use. Have not fabricated the seat yet. Thinking of laminating 5 or 6 thin layers of wood for the bottom. No idea on the backrest yet. I got the idea from a Catalina that we built a set of sails for. Garhauer was reasonable and did a nice job. It was made a bit different than the ones they make for Catalina but same concept. One of these days I might even get it installed.

--- In mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com, "sy INDECENT" <gmcerillo@...> wrote:

Hello all,

After sitting countless hours at the navigation station in discomfort due to lack of support for my back, we decided to add a back to the existing stool and a swivel. We had a large piece of wood under one of the bunks we decided to use and had a local canvas guru add the finish of leather. The photos are under Navigation Station seating addition link is http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1674207218/pic/list

Cheers,

SM2K #353 Indecent

George and Kim Cerillo
Cabo Rojo, PR
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


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Re: [Amel] Re: Navigation station seating addition

Anne and John Hollamby <annejohnholl@...>
 

I changed the helmsmans and the nav seats using Softrider pedestals made in New Zealand. These are the only ones I have ever seen to have gas filled struts to raise/lower and to move the seat backwards and forwards as well as swivelling.See them on Google and in the photos section under SM319 Bali Hai Changes. That photo album is one of the first and is best found by clicking on “first” and then “previous” or by finding under “list”.The actual seats are standard found in most big chandleries.The table mount is Logun a Swedish fitting also widely available.

Regards, Anne and John Bali Hai, SM319 Sicily

From: Dave_Benjamin
Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2012 5:50 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Re: Navigation station seating addition


I had Garhauer make a spring loaded chair mount for our Maramu. We don't have as much space as the SM for a permanently mounted chair so I wanted something that tucked against the bulkhead when not in use. Have not fabricated the seat yet. Thinking of laminating 5 or 6 thin layers of wood for the bottom. No idea on the backrest yet. I got the idea from a Catalina that we built a set of sails for. Garhauer was reasonable and did a nice job. It was made a bit different than the ones they make for Catalina but same concept. One of these days I might even get it installed.

--- In mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com, "sy INDECENT" <gmcerillo@...> wrote:

Hello all,

After sitting countless hours at the navigation station in discomfort due to lack of support for my back, we decided to add a back to the existing stool and a swivel. We had a large piece of wood under one of the bunks we decided to use and had a local canvas guru add the finish of leather. The photos are under Navigation Station seating addition link is http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1674207218/pic/list

Cheers,

SM2K #353 Indecent

George and Kim Cerillo
Cabo Rojo, PR




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Re: [Amel] Re: Lofrans Tigres switch covers

GrahamJohnston42 <grahamjohnston42@yahoo.com>
 

Hi John,
Thanks for the sugestion. That was going to be my fall back option if I could not find the rubber covers. THe one I have bought fits well and so we now have a solution. Thanks for the input.
 
Graham
Zephyr Sharki 181


________________________________
From: john martin <symoondog@hotmail.com>
To: "amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, 23 July 2012, 14:01
Subject: RE: [Amel] Re: Lofrans Tigres switch covers


If you can't find the rubber covers for the switches, just cut a piece of flexible plastic and tape it on top of the buttons. Tape the forward end and the 2 sides,leaving the aft end open for ventilation. If you do a neat job , it will look good and protect your switches. I have used this cover for years and have never gotten any water in my push buttons.    John  "Moon Dog" SM248
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
From: grahamjohnston42@yahoo.com
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2012 09:43:02 +0100
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Lofrans Tigres motor replacement




















 


   
     
     
      Good day Gene,

The switches are located only a few miles away from me in the UK.

Here is a link to the website.



http://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/Push_Button_Switches.html





The PBS4 is virtually identical to the ones that are fitted to Zephyr although unfortunately the body is made of steel and not brass. I have just taken a file to it to test it.

The PBS5 has a plastic body which appears to be more suitable although the securing nut is steel. The cover from the PBS5 fits the existing Amel fitted switch. I intend to fit the cover to our existing switch and to keep the body as a spare. I am still hunting replacement covers.

Hope this helps.



Regards

Graham

Zephyr Sharki 181



________________________________

From: Gene Carter <geneccarter@yahoo.com>

To: "amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Friday, 20 July 2012, 22:19

Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Lofrans Tigres motor replacement

 



 



good day Graham,



Were did you find the switch



Stargazer Sharki #132









Go Sailing



Gene C Carter



________________________________

From: Graham Johnston <mailto:grahamjohnston42%40yahoo.com>

To: "mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com" <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Friday, July 20, 2012 2:11 PM

Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Lofrans Tigres motor replacement



 

Hello John,

I agree with you that the Amel addition may not be the best and have considered installing deck switches as an alternative. I just want a quick fix at the moment as we are preparing to depart on a cruise and, as usual, I do not have time for all the jobs that need to be done and so the easy option would be to change the existing switch.

I have now found what appears to be a suitable  replacement and will fit it tomorrow.



Regards

Graham

Zephyr, Sharki 181



________________________________

From: Anne and John Hollamby <mailto:annejohnholl%40gmail.com>

To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com

Sent: Monday, 16 July 2012, 9:32

Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Lofrans Tigres motor replacement



 

Hello Graham,

The switches on top of the winch are an Amel addition and not one of their best ideas as they do not last and are prone to leaking sea water into the motor.Foot switches are much cheaper, last a long time and only involve a small hole through the deck for the wire.

John, Bali Hai, SM319



From: Graham Johnston

Sent: Monday, July 16, 2012 8:26 AM

To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com

Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Lofrans Tigres motor replacement



Many thanks. I will use Amel if I cannot source from elsewhere.

By the way we named our First 405 Stargazer, a good nme for a boat I think.



Regards

Graham

Sharki 181 Zephyr



________________________________

From: "mailto:geneccarter%40yahoo.com" <mailto:geneccarter%40yahoo.com>

To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com

Sent: Sunday, 15 July 2012, 16:37

Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Lofrans Tigres motor replacement



Good day I had to replace thru Amel



Sharki #132 stargazer

Sent on the Sprint® Now Network from my BlackBerry®



-----Original Message-----

From: "GrahamJohnston42" <mailto:grahamjohnston42%40yahoo.com>

Sender: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com

Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2012 08:17:47

To: <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

Reply-To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com

Subject: [Amel] Re: Lofrans Tigres motor replacement



Hi all,

Has anyone got the part number of the windlass switches as Vetus UK deny that they are their product and I need a couple?



Regards

Graham

Sharki 181 Zephyr



--- In mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com, Sailormon <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Hi,
The switches and covers are made by Vetus DenOunden
Fair Winds
Eric
Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite
_____
From: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
[mailto:mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Judy and Bill aboard
SV BeBe
Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2012 12:51 AM
To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Re: Lofrans Tigres motor replacement
Mark,
Three things:
It is possible that a shop that rebuilds starter motors can rebuild your
motor.
BeBe, #387 has a 1200 Lofrans Tigres.
The most common place for water to get into the motor area of your windlass
is through cracked UP/Down push button switch covers. You may want to
inspect them closely for cracks. The push button switch & covers are
available from Amel and I found them in a shop in NZ.
Hope this helps you and good luck.
Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Fethiye, Turkey
--- In mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "Mark" <markghayden@> wrote:
The motor on our windlass appears to be shot. It is getting 24V but not
turning over and appears badly corroded, as though water has been sneaking
in.
The distributor in Australia has a replacement from Lofrans in stock. It
is labelled as 1500W whereas my Lofrans manual says our original motor was
1000W. The Amel electrical diagrams show the windlass being on a 100A
breaker (shared with the furler), which my limited understanding says should
easily be enough for the additional wattage.
Has anyone else replaced their windlass motor or had any experience with
this replacement?
Thanks in advance!
Mark
SM2k #331
www.svnorthfork.blogspot.com
www.seaiq.com


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Re: Navigation station seating addition

Dave_Benjamin
 

I had Garhauer make a spring loaded chair mount for our Maramu. We don't have as much space as the SM for a permanently mounted chair so I wanted something that tucked against the bulkhead when not in use. Have not fabricated the seat yet. Thinking of laminating 5 or 6 thin layers of wood for the bottom. No idea on the backrest yet. I got the idea from a Catalina that we built a set of sails for. Garhauer was reasonable and did a nice job. It was made a bit different than the ones they make for Catalina but same concept. One of these days I might even get it installed.

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "sy INDECENT" <gmcerillo@...> wrote:

Hello all,

After sitting countless hours at the navigation station in discomfort due to lack of support for my back, we decided to add a back to the existing stool and a swivel. We had a large piece of wood under one of the bunks we decided to use and had a local canvas guru add the finish of leather. The photos are under Navigation Station seating addition link is http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1674207218/pic/list

Cheers,

SM2K #353 Indecent

George and Kim Cerillo
Cabo Rojo, PR


Navigation station seating addition

george cerillo
 

Hello all,

After sitting countless hours at the navigation station in discomfort due to lack of support for my back, we decided to add a back to the existing stool and a swivel. We had a large piece of wood under one of the bunks we decided to use and had a local canvas guru add the finish of leather. The photos are under Navigation Station seating addition link is http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1674207218/pic/list

Cheers,

SM2K #353 Indecent

George and Kim Cerillo
Cabo Rojo, PR


Re: [Amel] Re: Lofrans Tigres switch covers

john martin <symoondog@...>
 

If you can't find the rubber covers for the switches, just cut a piece of flexible plastic and tape it on top of the buttons. Tape the forward end and the 2 sides,leaving the aft end open for ventilation. If you do a neat job , it will look good and protect your switches. I have used this cover for years and have never gotten any water in my push buttons. John "Moon Dog" SM248
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
From: grahamjohnston42@yahoo.com
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2012 09:43:02 +0100
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Lofrans Tigres motor replacement


























Good day Gene,

The switches are located only a few miles away from me in the UK.

Here is a link to the website.



http://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/Push_Button_Switches.html





The PBS4 is virtually identical to the ones that are fitted to Zephyr although unfortunately the body is made of steel and not brass. I have just taken a file to it to test it.

The PBS5 has a plastic body which appears to be more suitable although the securing nut is steel. The cover from the PBS5 fits the existing Amel fitted switch. I intend to fit the cover to our existing switch and to keep the body as a spare. I am still hunting replacement covers.

Hope this helps.



Regards

Graham

Zephyr Sharki 181



________________________________

From: Gene Carter <geneccarter@yahoo.com>

To: "amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Friday, 20 July 2012, 22:19

Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Lofrans Tigres motor replacement









good day Graham,



Were did you find the switch



Stargazer Sharki #132









Go Sailing



Gene C Carter



________________________________

From: Graham Johnston <mailto:grahamjohnston42%40yahoo.com>

To: "mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com" <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Friday, July 20, 2012 2:11 PM

Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Lofrans Tigres motor replacement





Hello John,

I agree with you that the Amel addition may not be the best and have considered installing deck switches as an alternative. I just want a quick fix at the moment as we are preparing to depart on a cruise and, as usual, I do not have time for all the jobs that need to be done and so the easy option would be to change the existing switch.

I have now found what appears to be a suitable replacement and will fit it tomorrow.



Regards

Graham

Zephyr, Sharki 181



________________________________

From: Anne and John Hollamby <mailto:annejohnholl%40gmail.com>

To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com

Sent: Monday, 16 July 2012, 9:32

Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Lofrans Tigres motor replacement





Hello Graham,

The switches on top of the winch are an Amel addition and not one of their best ideas as they do not last and are prone to leaking sea water into the motor.Foot switches are much cheaper, last a long time and only involve a small hole through the deck for the wire.

John, Bali Hai, SM319



From: Graham Johnston

Sent: Monday, July 16, 2012 8:26 AM

To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com

Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Lofrans Tigres motor replacement



Many thanks. I will use Amel if I cannot source from elsewhere.

By the way we named our First 405 Stargazer, a good nme for a boat I think.



Regards

Graham

Sharki 181 Zephyr



________________________________

From: "mailto:geneccarter%40yahoo.com" <mailto:geneccarter%40yahoo.com>

To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com

Sent: Sunday, 15 July 2012, 16:37

Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Lofrans Tigres motor replacement



Good day I had to replace thru Amel



Sharki #132 stargazer

Sent on the Sprint Now Network from my BlackBerry

-----Original Message-----

From: "GrahamJohnston42" <mailto:grahamjohnston42%40yahoo.com>

Sender: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com

Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2012 08:17:47

To: <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

Reply-To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com

Subject: [Amel] Re: Lofrans Tigres motor replacement



Hi all,

Has anyone got the part number of the windlass switches as Vetus UK deny that they are their product and I need a couple?



Regards

Graham

Sharki 181 Zephyr



--- In mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com, Sailormon <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Hi,
The switches and covers are made by Vetus DenOunden
Fair Winds
Eric
Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite
_____
From: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
[mailto:mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Judy and Bill aboard
SV BeBe
Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2012 12:51 AM
To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Re: Lofrans Tigres motor replacement
Mark,
Three things:
It is possible that a shop that rebuilds starter motors can rebuild your
motor.
BeBe, #387 has a 1200 Lofrans Tigres.
The most common place for water to get into the motor area of your windlass
is through cracked UP/Down push button switch covers. You may want to
inspect them closely for cracks. The push button switch & covers are
available from Amel and I found them in a shop in NZ.
Hope this helps you and good luck.
Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Fethiye, Turkey
--- In mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "Mark" <markghayden@> wrote:
The motor on our windlass appears to be shot. It is getting 24V but not
turning over and appears badly corroded, as though water has been sneaking
in.
The distributor in Australia has a replacement from Lofrans in stock. It
is labelled as 1500W whereas my Lofrans manual says our original motor was
1000W. The Amel electrical diagrams show the windlass being on a 100A
breaker (shared with the furler), which my limited understanding says should
easily be enough for the additional wattage.
Has anyone else replaced their windlass motor or had any experience with
this replacement?
Thanks in advance!
Mark
SM2k #331
www.svnorthfork.blogspot.com
www.seaiq.com
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Yahoo! Groups Links



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interesting websites for waterproof screws and seals etc.

Eric Freedman
 

http://view.email.globalspec.com/?j=fe5a167175600174721d
<http://view.email.globalspec.com/?j=fe5a167175600174721d&m=fef11d73726d06&l
s=fdf916767662037d70177574&l=fefb107070670c&s=fe20127771600d75751d70&jb=ff99
1575&ju=fe3416717d60067e751477&r=0>
&m=fef11d73726d06&ls=fdf916767662037d70177574&l=fefb107070670c&s=fe201277716
00d75751d70&jb=ff991575&ju=fe3416717d60067e751477&r=0



another one very interesting



http://www.apmhexseal.com/index.aspx

Fair Winds Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite


2 diferent types of foam seals used on the bow thruster

Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Ian,

A close examination of the seals should prove that 1 of the 3 is different. This is the one that goes inside the boat.

The following I copied from BOW THRUSTER SERVICE by Gary Silver.pdf which you can download on the Amel Owners website under Files >> Miscellaneous

Portion Copied follows:
Remove the inside foam seal and the two foam seals adhered to the
top of the rectangular anti-torque cap of the bow thruster. (These are held in place by contact cement) Note added by BeBe: the 1 "inside foam seal" is different from the "two foam seals." Examine the new foam seals carefully and you will see the difference. The two like foam seals go together outside and on top of the rectangular anti-torque cap.

8. To replace the trunk lip seal, remove the two screws and retaining
washers from the top of the bow thruster trunk. Use a screwdriver to
collapse this seal or try carefully prying it out. It is a very loose fit.
a. When installing the new lip seal, pack it with grease, press it into its recess using RTV to seal it and hold it. Replace the retaining screws and washers.
9. To remove the prop shaft lip seal you may need a slide hammer and very tiny screws. It is difficult to drill into this seal without the drill slipping off and damaging the fiberglass recess, so use a 1/16th inch drill and drill really slowly to avoid slipping off. Once two screws are threaded into this seal a slide hammer easily removes it.
10. Seal this new seal into place with RTV as well. It is a tighter fit than the upper seal but still relatively loose compared to the main prop shaft seal.
<<<Added May 2012>>>
"With the (bow thruster prop shaft) seal pushed in further now not even a hint of oil moisture coming through after 2.5 hrs with only the correct SAE90 gear oil in.

Note from: Colin Streeter Island Pearl II - SM2k #332 "What we did is carefully but pretty firmly pressed the new seal in (with the flat edge of a file) so that it has gone about 3mm beyond level with the outer edge. In this position it cannot go any further in and it now has a perfect seal."

Hope this helps,

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Ian Shepherd <sv_freespirit@...> wrote:

Thanks Bill,

it worked this time, but no mention is made as to which type of foam
seal goes where assuming my spares kit has two types, which I believe it
does, nor which way up the tube lip seal should go. As I am in Larnaca
it is hard to envisage whether it really matters, but I will be at the
boat tomorrow.

Regards

Ian

On 18/07/2012 15:44, Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe wrote:

Ian,

Go to the website for Amel Owners Group. Be sure to sign-in to your
Yahoo account (probably the reason it did not work for you earlier).
Go to Files >>> Miscellaneous >>> BOW THRUSTER SERVICE by Gary Silver.pdf

That should do you.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>, Ian Shepherd
<sv_freespirit@> wrote:

Bill,

thanks for the info but I am afraid the link does not work. I will be
back at KGM Saturday as currentlt in the UK picking up a spare SSB as
the installed one has developed a fault.

Regards

Ian SM414 Crusader

On 18/07/2012 06:12, Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe wrote:

Eric,

Yes, there are two different types of foam seals used on the bow
thruster. When I discovered this a few years ago, I re-wrote the BOW
THRUSTER SERVICE by Gary Silver.pdf which was originally written by
you and Gary and posted it in the files section of the Amel website.
Someone moved it to the Miscellaneous folder and it is currently at:
http://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/0EIGUF_yTm7js-FLlJZaHXGZjQcD6ENlTzMPgrXshX91t1Eq0y0AAGOQ4l9po9oqNdqqFxfhhLXj34gyPhZqXfV0K40/Miscellaneous/BOW%20THRUSTER%20SERVICE%20by%20Gary%20Silver.pdf

Amel told me that if you get the seals mixed up, you will get some
water in through the bow thruster. I believe that you can also get
some water by getting the torque on the lifting cable too tight or
too
lose. I know that some owners do not use the safety pin, but rather
change the lifting cable adjustment to place more pressure on the
seals when the Bow Thruster is UP. This adjustment changes the seal
when the Bow Thruster is DOWN. And in my opinion, when it is down and
in use you will get water inside if you have the wrong seal, or if
you
have incorrectly adjusted the lifting cable.

This is 80% opinion and 20% experience, so please take it as that.

Hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>, Sailormon <kimberlite@>
wrote:

there are 2 diferent types of foam seals used on the bow thruster.

Dear Eric,



To help you with the foam seals, I have attached a drawing of the
bowthruster showing where they are located. Indeed the neoprene
seals are
located outside the hull and the natural seal sits inside the boat.
Please
tell me how many of each I should put in the shipment.

Thank you.



Best regards,



Maud/Chantiers AMEL Customer service

sav@









[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] 2 diferent types of foam seals used on the bow thruster

Ian Shepherd
 

Thanks Bill,

it worked this time, but no mention is made as to which type of foam
seal goes where assuming my spares kit has two types, which I believe it
does, nor which way up the tube lip seal should go. As I am in Larnaca
it is hard to envisage whether it really matters, but I will be at the
boat tomorrow.

Regards

Ian

On 18/07/2012 15:44, Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe wrote:

Ian,

Go to the website for Amel Owners Group. Be sure to sign-in to your
Yahoo account (probably the reason it did not work for you earlier).
Go to Files >>> Miscellaneous >>> BOW THRUSTER SERVICE by Gary Silver.pdf

That should do you.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>, Ian Shepherd
<sv_freespirit@...> wrote:

Bill,

thanks for the info but I am afraid the link does not work. I will be
back at KGM Saturday as currentlt in the UK picking up a spare SSB as
the installed one has developed a fault.

Regards

Ian SM414 Crusader

On 18/07/2012 06:12, Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe wrote:

Eric,

Yes, there are two different types of foam seals used on the bow
thruster. When I discovered this a few years ago, I re-wrote the BOW
THRUSTER SERVICE by Gary Silver.pdf which was originally written by
you and Gary and posted it in the files section of the Amel website.
Someone moved it to the Miscellaneous folder and it is currently at:
http://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/0EIGUF_yTm7js-FLlJZaHXGZjQcD6ENlTzMPgrXshX91t1Eq0y0AAGOQ4l9po9oqNdqqFxfhhLXj34gyPhZqXfV0K40/Miscellaneous/BOW%20THRUSTER%20SERVICE%20by%20Gary%20Silver.pdf

Amel told me that if you get the seals mixed up, you will get some
water in through the bow thruster. I believe that you can also get
some water by getting the torque on the lifting cable too tight or
too
lose. I know that some owners do not use the safety pin, but rather
change the lifting cable adjustment to place more pressure on the
seals when the Bow Thruster is UP. This adjustment changes the seal
when the Bow Thruster is DOWN. And in my opinion, when it is down and
in use you will get water inside if you have the wrong seal, or if
you
have incorrectly adjusted the lifting cable.

This is 80% opinion and 20% experience, so please take it as that.

Hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>, Sailormon <kimberlite@>
wrote:

there are 2 diferent types of foam seals used on the bow thruster.

Dear Eric,



To help you with the foam seals, I have attached a drawing of the
bowthruster showing where they are located. Indeed the neoprene
seals are
located outside the hull and the natural seal sits inside the boat.
Please
tell me how many of each I should put in the shipment.

Thank you.



Best regards,



Maud/Chantiers AMEL Customer service

sav@











Re: i hope this fixed it

Eric Freedman
 

_____

From: Sailormon [mailto:kimberlite@optonline.net]
Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2012 6:27 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: i hope this fixed it


(No subject)

Eric Freedman
 

web test


test 4

Eric Freedman
 

test 4


test xxxx

Eric Freedman
 


test do not reply

Eric Freedman
 


it only works from here

Eric Freedman
 

If i send an email from the amel site the subkject and my user name show up. does anyone have a help email or phone number for Yahoo?
thanks
eric