Date   

Re: [Amel] Re: MARAMU BEST SOLAR PANELS POSITION

Chris Smither <yachtakwaaba@...>
 

I agree with Bill.....the cost benefit analysis for solar panels shows that the payback period is huge!
   Where I differ is that I believe they come into their own if you are not continuously cruising or circumnavigating, but plan to put your boat "to bed" for a period of several months each year, especially if you are planning to leave your boat in the tropics.
   At that point you need to factor in the cost of keeping your batteries charged whilst away, especially if they are lead acid.
Leaving lead acid batteries without a "trickle charge" allows them to self discharge, at a rate which varies with age and condition, but can be as high as 2-3% a week.

   Once I took this into account, the calculation became better, but still not good - but given the uncertainty of marina or hardstanding power, I decided to go with two panels which I mounted on top of the permananent bimini that I had on my Santorin sloop. (One year on a hardstanding, I returned to find that my power connection had been usurped by a well known international yacht charter company servicing their yachts!!)

   These put just enough into the house batteries to hold them in good condition for the 3-4 months we were away each year.

It's an individual decision, but my lead acid batteries are still in the green after 5 years in use, with the boat "shut down" from May to October.

Mike & Chris
Santorin 027
lying Phuket

  



________________________________
From: Judy and Bill aboard SVBeBe <yahoogroups@svbebe.com>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, July 26, 2012 6:13 PM
Subject: [Amel] Re: MARAMU BEST SOLAR PANELS POSITION



 
Andy,

I put together an Excel workbook that calculates the payback (financial benefit) for a Super Maramu. If you are familiar with financial modeling and Excel, possibly you can use it to determine if you want to do this.

When all was said and done, my very clear decision was to continue to burn diesel for the power (AC & DC) that we consume.

If you want it send me an email with your email address to bill"at"svbebe.com

Best,

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Selimye, Turkey

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Andy" <allezaubon@...> wrote:

dear all ,especially Maramu owners, we are debating the pro's and con's of various positions for mounting solar panels on our Maramu -the two favorites are horizontally over our soft Bimini or on port and starboard aft pushpits / rails / stanchions - how many solar panels ? We have been thinking ~200W to 400W. 32 - 36 cells - Are the number of cells critical , or as there are so many other factors such as shading, this point is over emphasized ?? Looking forward to your knowlegable feedback. Thanks in advance , Andy


Re: Maramu best generator location

Dave_Benjamin
 

Bob,

A lot of us on the west coast have chosen to carry one (or two in some cases) of those portable Honda generators rather than deal with the expense and hassle of a conventional marine generator. Our Maramu does not have a generator and I can't see any really good spot for it. The Honda takes up little space and some people have made a rail mount for it.

Here's an economical 30 gph watermaker that is designed to work with the Honda generator - http://cruiserowaterandpower.com/WaterMakers.html

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Bob Sarff" <bsarff@...> wrote:

I am preparing to install a generator/watermaker and would appreciate any input on the best location on a Maramu. my preference would be the engine room if it will fit. second choice is the port storage locker. What have other Maramu owners done? Do any of you have pictures youy can send or post.

Thanks for your assistance.

Bob
SV Chara


Maramu best generator location

Bob Sarff <bsarff@...>
 

I am preparing to install a generator/watermaker and would appreciate any input on the best location on a Maramu. my preference would be the engine room if it will fit. second choice is the port storage locker. What have other Maramu owners done? Do any of you have pictures youy can send or post.

Thanks for your assistance.

Bob
SV Chara


low pressure water maker pump for a 160 L/H

kilkea_2 <kilkea2@...>
 

Hello we are in need of a capacitor/condensor but do not have the specs and apparently it is important to have the right one. If anyone know the specs of the capacitor would you please let us know.
Kilkea II #466


Re: MARAMU BEST SOLAR PANELS POSITION

Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Andy,

I put together an Excel workbook that calculates the payback (financial benefit) for a Super Maramu. If you are familiar with financial modeling and Excel, possibly you can use it to determine if you want to do this.

When all was said and done, my very clear decision was to continue to burn diesel for the power (AC & DC) that we consume.

If you want it send me an email with your email address to bill"at"svbebe.com

Best,

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Selimye, Turkey

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Andy" <allezaubon@...> wrote:

dear all ,especially Maramu owners, we are debating the pro's and con's of various positions for mounting solar panels on our Maramu -the two favorites are horizontally over our soft Bimini or on port and starboard aft pushpits / rails / stanchions - how many solar panels ? We have been thinking ~200W to 400W. 32 - 36 cells - Are the number of cells critical , or as there are so many other factors such as shading, this point is over emphasized ?? Looking forward to your knowlegable feedback. Thanks in advance , Andy


MARAMU BEST SOLAR PANELS POSITION

H. Müller <iys@...>
 


MARAMU BEST SOLAR PANELS POSITION

Andy Croney
 

dear all ,especially Maramu owners, we are debating the pro's and con's of various positions for mounting solar panels on our Maramu -the two favorites are horizontally over our soft Bimini or on port and starboard aft pushpits / rails / stanchions - how many solar panels ? We have been thinking ~200W to 400W. 32 - 36 cells - Are the number of cells critical , or as there are so many other factors such as shading, this point is over emphasized ?? Looking forward to your knowlegable feedback. Thanks in advance , Andy


Amel Changed the seals

Eric Freedman
 

Sometime in the last 4 years I believe Amel changed the seals.

Kimberlite a 2002 model originally came with one type of foam seals now
there are 2 types in the last shipment.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite


interesting vendors for parts

Eric Freedman
 

http://view.email.globalspec.com/?j=fe5a167175600174721d
<http://view.email.globalspec.com/?j=fe5a167175600174721d&m=fef11d73726d06&l
s=fdf916767662037d70177574&l=fefb107070670c&s=fe20127771600d75751d70&jb=ff99
1575&ju=fe3416717d60067e751477&r=0>
&m=fef11d73726d06&ls=fdf916767662037d70177574&l=fefb107070670c&s=fe201277716
00d75751d70&jb=ff991575&ju=fe3416717d60067e751477&r=0



another one very interesting



http://www.apmhexseal.com/index.aspx

Fair Winds Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite


finally found the problem

Eric Freedman
 

There is a internet spam registry and for some reason my ip address was added to the list of interner spammers.
end of problem
eric


do not reply --desktop test

Eric Freedman
 

Desktop test


do not reply --desktop test

Eric Freedman
 

Desktop test


3:20 7/25

Eric Freedman
 


7/25/12 3:15

Eric Freedman
 


laptop test

Eric Freedman
 

Laptop test


Modified SM Bow Thruster Evaluation

Ian Shepherd
 

Almost three year ago I decided to try and improve my SM bow thruster to rid it of water ingress, rough running and frequency of maintenance. The original design has the prop shaft lip seal running on the relatively rough fibre shaft surface which causes it to wear out quickly. The open ball race bearings suffer corrosion from the resulting mayonnaise and cause rough running.

I had the prop shaft skimmed and a stainless sleeve pressed on. The lip seal now runs on a polished stainless surface. I threw the three open bearings away and replaced them with sealed ones running in their own grease. Because the bearing on the vertical drive shaft prevents oil being poured down the tube, it was necessary to provide some other form of lubrication for the bevel gears that drive the prop shaft.

My solution was to pack the gearbox housing with trailer wheel water proof grease. This can be done by removing the back plate. Find the 4 screws, undo and tap the prop end of the prop shaft (propeller and boss first removed), and the back plate will pop out.

As promised I said I would take it apart and report what I found after almost three years of immersion and use:

1: The bow thruster is still smoother than ever before.

2: There was no water at all inside. (If water did get past the lip seal, it would still have to find a way past the outer sealed bearing).

3: The grease, whilst well churned up, looked perfect.

4: The lip seal looked in excellent condition.

3: All three sealed bearings felt like new with no friction or lumpiness with grease still felt inside.

4: No signs of corrosion on the planet gears, nor any wear. Everything bright and shiny.

In conclusion a total success. I did renew the seal and the grease, but I am confident that the unit would not need maintenance for longer periods, though as my previous post described, it may be a good idea to at least drop the tube down a few inches and grease the top to prevent any seizure within the motor housing at more frequent intervals.

Ian Shepherd SM2000 #414 Crusader Built 2003 Cyprus


Re: [Amel] SM2000 Bow Thruster Removal

Ian Shepherd
 

Hi Bob,

it did not go well. In fact it took one and a half days to remove the bow thruster despite being soaked in Corrosion Block and other lubes for almost a week before we tried to remove it. Here is the saga and a sure way to get it out next time.

First we tried the drop method mentioned on this site. The only success we had with this technique was to splinter the trunk fibreglass and remove the skin off my hands!

Then we tied one end of a rope to the thruster just above the gearbox and tied the other end to a 6 foot steel square sectioned tube. One end of the tube tucked under the forward hull support trestle. Downward pressure and several persuasive beatings with a wooden block did move it about 3/16th of an inch but no further. Just enough in fact so that the securing pins would not go back in, leaving the boat unusable. No turning back now. More solvent, more beatings but no more movement. The end of the day came and I retired to bed to lick my wounds and curse this bow thruster even more than I have in the past.

Next morning, thinking that the splines on the drive shaft must have corroded, I decided to dismantle the gearbox so that we could withdraw the tube downwards and the motor and shaft upwards. Having removed the prop shaft and major planet gear wheel, the drive shaft then dropped down an inch, so obviously it was not the splines causing the trouble but the fibre tube stuck to the inside of the motor housing despite being well greased as were the splines when I last serviced the unit.

It was now clear that we had to twist the motor relative to the shaft. To do this, we removed the ant-torque plate from the underside of the motor and repositioned it 90 degrees anticlockwise so that the two prongs faced aft into the cabin. (You will have to move the bolt that does not hold the plate to the motor one step anticlockwise too so that it aligns with the hole in the plate). - For those who do not have this plate, then you are out of luck. It was added to the design after my sinking to stop the bow thruster tube failing. Amel rightly made modification kits for all SM's fitted with the larger motor, and if you don't have one, then I would thoroughly recommend getting one. For two reasons now.

We found a 3 foot tube that fitted over the anti-torque plate prongs and tried to twist the motor against the tube. After a huge amount of effort and and extension bar, we moved it a little then sprayed more lube in though the locking pin holes. Gradually it freed up some more, but the thruster still refused to pull free despite the leverage of the 6 foot bar beneath. After many futile attempts I got the mechanic to twist the motor whilst I put all of my weight on the bar below and eventually we got the bow thruster out. This method will work, providing you have the means to twist the motor.

Examination of the tube revealed no pitting and there was very little rust on the inside of the motor housing. I believe that it was just made too tight. It always was very difficult to locate the tube in the fully home position in the motor housing. There was no rust on the motor lower bearing, or the splines, both being well greased.

As a precaution I have ground out the inside of the motor housing using my Dremmel so that the fit is now more agricultural and less prone to seizure. I will also reassemble it with Corrosion Block anti corrosion grease instead of plain water proof grease once the trunk fibreglass repair is complete. Hopefully such a nightmare will not happen again. Maybe a contributary factor is that since modifying the bow thruster to run in grease with sealed bearings, it has not been necessary to remove it so frequently to get rid of the mayonnaise. The last removal was almost three years ago. (See next post).

Ian Shepherd SM2000 #414 Built 2003 Location Mediterranean

On 18/07/2012 08:17, Bob Parry wrote:
Hi Ian,

Good luck with it. As you can imagine, the oil in ours was like mayonnaise.
It still worked well and sounded fine but it was probably on a short fuse.
We don't know why it started to leak on our way from New Caledonia but it
seems logical that the seal was somehow damaged when we went to the fuel
dock. Up until then, it had been bone dry.

Hope all goes well. We will be interested to hear how it went.

Regards,

Ann and Bob
Nowornot SM#33

On Wed, Jul 18, 2012 at 5:46 PM, Ian Shepherd <sv_freespirit@yahoo.co.uk>wrote:

**


Hi Bob,

I was joking when I said lift the foredeck of course! I was just
imagining the car jack trying to lift it up as it generated pressure. I
hope to start work on the thruster next Saturday when I am back in Cyprus.

As I have filled my thruster with grease instead of oil, it would be
possible to do all the servicing without disconnecting from the motor,
but I know that if I don't get it apart now and re-grease the splines,
then I probably never will. Thanks for the reminder on the neoprene
seal. I will have a good look at that too.

On my first SM I built a rubber dam around the entry area to the inside
of the boat and fitted drain tubes that connected to the anchor locker
drain pipe. This reduced considerably the amount of water ending up
under the floor adjacent to the forward heads.

When the thruster arrangement was re-designed following my sinking, the
later boats have a watertight compartment for the thruster that drains
into the chain locker pipe. End of problem.

I will post my findings when I have dismantled the thruster to see how
the grease worked out. Audibly, it seems fine after almost three years
of use using grease.

Ian Shepherd SM 414 Crusader Built 2003


On 17/07/2012 09:20, Bob Parry wrote:
Hi Ian,

I don't know what you have envisaged about the process that was used in
Yalikivak but we DID NOT remove the foredeck. They removed the bow
thruster
motor to give room to move at the top of the bow thruster (motor was
dismantled) and the whole thing was supported under the boat push against
the action of the jack. The bow thruster was in the up position and they
jacked the top section upwards, hence the need to remove the motor. We
had
the boat for 5 years before we managed to get it fixed. We had tried
everything including the drop method with the only result being
consternation among other people in the boat yard.

We have a rubber seal as well as the foam ones. It is similar to the
seals
used in irrigation systems and it has the "open" side down to stop inflow
of water. Ours had become so bad that we had to put a bulge pump in the
bilge outside the forward head. We have since travelled from Turkey to
Brisbane in Australia and had no water come in until the last leg from
New
Caledonia. It appears that the seal has suffered some damage. Dare say we
will find out during our next haul out.

Regards,

Ann and Bob Parry
Nowornot SM#33

On Tue, Jul 17, 2012 at 4:29 PM, Ian Shepherd<sv_freespirit@yahoo.co.uk
wrote:

**


Hi Bo& Ann,
thanks for the info. I will try Bill's drop suggestion first before
trying to lift the foredeck! I presume by seal you mean the foam seals
that go around the shaft? There is a correct way to fit them as I
believe that one side is harder than the other. Can you please remind me
of the correct way round? I would assume that the hard side is glued to
the top and bottom of the hole and the soft side faces down and up? Or
is it the other way round?

Regards

Ian SM 414 Crusader Built 2003


On 17/07/2012 00:32, Bob Parry wrote:
We had the same problem on our 1990 Super Maramu. It was finally fixed
by
an Englishman and his Turkish assistant in Yalikavak. They removed the
motor to give room at the top and used a hydraulic car jack. The jack
was
inside the boat and the Turkish assistant supported the bottom outside
the
boat. It took a bit of effort but it worked. Whoever serviced it before
we
bought the boat had put a seal in upside down and the steel rim had
corroded and was holding the fibreglass? tube in a vice-like grip.

Good luck with it.
Ann and Bob Parry
Nowornot SM#33 in Brisbane

On Tue, Jul 17, 2012 at 6:38 AM, sv_crusader<sv_freespirit@yahoo.co.uk
wrote:

**

I am having difficulty removing my bow thruster to service it. It
seems
well and truly stuck when I try to pull it out of the boat. I have
sprayed
the tube/motor housing connection with Corrosion Block and other
products
in the hope that it will free up in a few days, but I suspect the
shaft
splines may be corroded despite greasing them the last time it was
assembled.

Has anyone discovered a way of freeing up the unit without doing any
damage? The boat is on the hard (at your last haul out spot Bill&
Judy).
Ian Shepherd SM2000 414 Crusader Built 2003 Med




------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links





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Yahoo! Groups Links






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Yahoo! Groups Links




Re: [Amel] 2 diferent types of foam seals used on the bow thruster

Ian Shepherd
 

Bill,

I have now checked my stock of spare foam seals. If you look carefully,
two are made of a more dense foam than the third. As you say, the two
denser ones are glued onto the base of the thruster tube, and the less
dense one is glued on the top side of the hole.

Still not sure which is the best way up for the tube to hole in the boat
lip seal. I noticed my spare from Amel does not have a spring in it,
therefore it may work better with the lip facing downwards so that any
surge tightens the seal.

Deniz and Efe say hello. They look forwards to your return.

Ian

On 22/07/2012 16:29, Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe wrote:

Ian,

A close examination of the seals should prove that 1 of the 3 is
different. This is the one that goes inside the boat.

The following I copied from BOW THRUSTER SERVICE by Gary Silver.pdf
which you can download on the Amel Owners website under Files >>
Miscellaneous

Portion Copied follows:
Remove the inside foam seal and the two foam seals adhered to the
top of the rectangular anti-torque cap of the bow thruster. (These are
held in place by contact cement) Note added by BeBe: the 1 "inside
foam seal" is different from the "two foam seals." Examine the new
foam seals carefully and you will see the difference. The two like
foam seals go together outside and on top of the rectangular
anti-torque cap.

8. To replace the trunk lip seal, remove the two screws and retaining
washers from the top of the bow thruster trunk. Use a screwdriver to
collapse this seal or try carefully prying it out. It is a very loose fit.
a. When installing the new lip seal, pack it with grease, press it
into its recess using RTV to seal it and hold it. Replace the
retaining screws and washers.
9. To remove the prop shaft lip seal you may need a slide hammer and
very tiny screws. It is difficult to drill into this seal without the
drill slipping off and damaging the fiberglass recess, so use a 1/16th
inch drill and drill really slowly to avoid slipping off. Once two
screws are threaded into this seal a slide hammer easily removes it.
10. Seal this new seal into place with RTV as well. It is a tighter
fit than the upper seal but still relatively loose compared to the
main prop shaft seal.
<<<Added May 2012>>>
"With the (bow thruster prop shaft) seal pushed in further now not
even a hint of oil moisture coming through after 2.5 hrs with only the
correct SAE90 gear oil in.

Note from: Colin Streeter Island Pearl II - SM2k #332 "What we did is
carefully but pretty firmly pressed the new seal in (with the flat
edge of a file) so that it has gone about 3mm beyond level with the
outer edge. In this position it cannot go any further in and it now
has a perfect seal."

Hope this helps,

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>, Ian Shepherd
<sv_freespirit@...> wrote:

Thanks Bill,

it worked this time, but no mention is made as to which type of foam
seal goes where assuming my spares kit has two types, which I
believe it
does, nor which way up the tube lip seal should go. As I am in Larnaca
it is hard to envisage whether it really matters, but I will be at the
boat tomorrow.

Regards

Ian

On 18/07/2012 15:44, Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe wrote:

Ian,

Go to the website for Amel Owners Group. Be sure to sign-in to your
Yahoo account (probably the reason it did not work for you earlier).
Go to Files >>> Miscellaneous >>> BOW THRUSTER SERVICE by Gary
Silver.pdf

That should do you.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>, Ian Shepherd
<sv_freespirit@> wrote:

Bill,

thanks for the info but I am afraid the link does not work. I
will be
back at KGM Saturday as currentlt in the UK picking up a spare
SSB as
the installed one has developed a fault.

Regards

Ian SM414 Crusader

On 18/07/2012 06:12, Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe wrote:

Eric,

Yes, there are two different types of foam seals used on the bow
thruster. When I discovered this a few years ago, I re-wrote
the BOW
THRUSTER SERVICE by Gary Silver.pdf which was originally
written by
you and Gary and posted it in the files section of the Amel
website.
Someone moved it to the Miscellaneous folder and it is
currently at:
http://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/0EIGUF_yTm7js-FLlJZaHXGZjQcD6ENlTzMPgrXshX91t1Eq0y0AAGOQ4l9po9oqNdqqFxfhhLXj34gyPhZqXfV0K40/Miscellaneous/BOW%20THRUSTER%20SERVICE%20by%20Gary%20Silver.pdf

Amel told me that if you get the seals mixed up, you will get some
water in through the bow thruster. I believe that you can also get
some water by getting the torque on the lifting cable too
tight or
too
lose. I know that some owners do not use the safety pin, but
rather
change the lifting cable adjustment to place more pressure on the
seals when the Bow Thruster is UP. This adjustment changes the
seal
when the Bow Thruster is DOWN. And in my opinion, when it is
down and
in use you will get water inside if you have the wrong seal,
or if
you
have incorrectly adjusted the lifting cable.

This is 80% opinion and 20% experience, so please take it as that.

Hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>, Sailormon
<kimberlite@>
wrote:

there are 2 diferent types of foam seals used on the bow
thruster.

Dear Eric,



To help you with the foam seals, I have attached a drawing
of the
bowthruster showing where they are located. Indeed the neoprene
seals are
located outside the hull and the natural seal sits inside
the boat.
Please
tell me how many of each I should put in the shipment.

Thank you.



Best regards,



Maud/Chantiers AMEL Customer service

sav@














Re: [Amel] test from store

Joe and Martha
 

It works.


Joe and Martha, s/v WASABI

-----Original Message-----
From: kimberlite <kimberlite@optonline.net>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tue, Jul 24, 2012 6:40 pm
Subject: [Amel] test from store





This is a test of the store account

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


test from store

Eric Freedman
 

This is a test of the store account