Date   

fuses DC-panel

dr_hofschulte
 

hallo all,
do you know the manufacturer of the fuses at the DC-panel ?
(SM2000)
Thanks for information , regards
docjoho, Johanna-Amalthea SM 2000 #436


Hydrovane Update

rossirossix4
 

I had read several posts in this group regarding the Hydrovane self steering unit. It surprised me because I know several owners who have had stellar experiences with them. Close friends of mine used one for their circumnavigation and used it virtually 100% of the time off shore--including over a 10 days in the Indian Ocean where they mostly would not even venture into their cockpit--sounded awful...anyway, I cut and pasted some of the content of our postings to them and asked for an explanation and received the following.

"We would expect a Hydrovane on your boat to give the same excellent performance that you have heard from others – see the HEAVY BOAT section of our website at http://www.hydrovane.com/OurProduct.html scroll down about 3/4 of the way down the page. There is no reason why an Amel would be different than any other boat …. and your Santorin does not even qualify as a `HEAVY BOAT' in our lexicon. The Hydrovane is indifferent to the boat it is fitted to. It will produce its certain amount of steering power for any boat.

For those boats from which you have heard of Hydrovane problems: The time frame of those issues was after we introduced our new rudder. It took us 2 years including tank testing of the rudder at the University of Southampton to finally discover the problem – some of the rudders were `wonky'. In technical terms we had the shaft hole position of the rudder too near its perfect balance point. When it is perfectly balanced the rudder no longer knows which way is forward. Actually the shaft hole line (projecting the shaft hole to the bottom of the rudder) was too close or maybe even crossed over the COP (Centre of Pressure) of the rudder in the upper half. Worse was the discovery that if the shaft hole direction was as little as a half degree out in the wrong direction the rudder could be unstable. We now believe that both reports you heard were probably bad rudders. See TIPS #7 POOR PERFORMANCE at: http://www.hydrovane.com/Tips.html#7 for our description of the problem and a `recall' of any such bad rudders. The confusing part for us was that so many of those rudders were good performers – but not all of them. In hindsight those other Amel s with problem Hydrovanes only needed a new rudder with a shaft hole in the right position."

Anyway, this may be helpful info for some of you.

Bob
Santorin 86, Brittany de la Mer


Re: Calpeda AC Pump

Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Mark,

The squealing is the bearings...the water leak is the mechanical seal.

It is a very good and very solid pump also very basic...repair it with new bearings and seal...it will last another 5-8 years...then do it again. Get the water-well shop to also check the impeller...it is metal, but may be in need of replacement, based on the age of your boat. Also, there are some drain plugs on the cast iron pump housing...check these as they tend to deteriorate. Check the check-valve on the output...it probably needs to be replaced as well.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "captain_cucumber_head" <mcerdos@...> wrote:


Thank you for the information. The pump is running a little rough and makes an occasional squeal. It has also leaked a very tiny amount of water. This leads me to the bearings and seals as a good place to start. I had never thought of a well water shop; what a great idea. I'll buy a new capacitor while I'm at it. It seems to me that this would be a good item in the spare parts bag just to keep Murphy away. Thanks again!

Mark

Cream Puff
SM #275



--- In amelyachtowners@..., "captain_cucumber_head" <mcerdos@> wrote:

Hi,

I am hoping someone can help me with the model number of the blue Calpeda 220vac pump used for salt water cooling of the AC units. The brass plate on my pump is corroded and I am not able to clearly see the specs. This is for a 1999/2000 model SM. Thanks.

Mark

Cream Puff
SM #275


Re: Calpeda AC Pump

Mark Erdos
 

Thank you for the information. The pump is running a little rough and makes an occasional squeal. It has also leaked a very tiny amount of water. This leads me to the bearings and seals as a good place to start. I had never thought of a well water shop; what a great idea. I'll buy a new capacitor while I'm at it. It seems to me that this would be a good item in the spare parts bag just to keep Murphy away. Thanks again!

Mark

Cream Puff
SM #275

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "captain_cucumber_head" <mcerdos@...> wrote:

Hi,

I am hoping someone can help me with the model number of the blue Calpeda 220vac pump used for salt water cooling of the AC units. The brass plate on my pump is corroded and I am not able to clearly see the specs. This is for a 1999/2000 model SM. Thanks.

Mark

Cream Puff
SM #275


AC Pump Hose Clamp Failure

karkauai
 

A note about the A/C pump:  I was at the dock with two A/C's going and doing some maintenance in the forward cabin when the A/C started cycling as if it weren't getting any cooling water.  I looked at the bilge pump light and it was on steadily.  Quickly shut off the A/C's and looked in the engine room to find water pouring out of the output side of the A/C pump where the 2 stainless hose clamps had failed due to rusting and the hose had popped off.  The bilge pump was keeping up, but water was coming out at a remarkable rate even with the pump off...can't imagine what it looked like with the pump running.  Just about the time that I closed the seacock off, the bilge pump started whining and stopped pumping due to failure of one of the valves.  If I'd been off the boat and just gone for an hour or two, the engine room would have been full and everything in it covered in sea water.
 
I've also had a hose on the genset pop off due to corroded/broken hose clamps, too.  They break but hold their shape so you can't see there's a problem until the second one breaks and water starts pouring in.  Part of my routine maintenance is now going to be changing the hose clamps on a regular basis.  I'm also going to rethink leaving the boat even for a few hours with the sea cocks open.
 
Hope this saves someone a serious problem.
Kent
SM 243
KRISTY
Currently Brunswick GA


________________________________
From: Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Friday, August 31, 2012 1:52 AM
Subject: [Amel] Re: Calpeda AC Pump

 
Mark,

Check the photo at: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/324976668/pic/154718279/view?picmode=large&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc

Also, the mechanical pump seal and the bearings are easy to replace. Usually, when the seal starts leaking, some salt water ruins the bearing closest to the pump. If you need 1 bearing, replace both of them. If you are not sure about rebuilding the pump, take it to a water-well pump shop or a swimming pool equipment repair facility. The water-well pump shop will be much better. They can rebuild the pump for you...the bearings and seal are standard sizes. If the pump has failed, you probably need a new capacitor...see: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/324976668/pic/58456993/view?picmode=&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc
A suitable replacement can be found at most any electrical supply store.

If you are looking to replace the Calpeda: Basic rule of thumb: 1 gallon per minute (GPM) is required for every 4,000 Btu's of capacity.
I believe each of the A/C units are 9,000btu.

9,000 * 3 = 27,000/4,000= 6.75gal/min * 3.785=25.55liters/min * 60 = 1,532 liters/hour....6,75gal/min * 60 = 405gal/hour

I rebuilt our Calpeda in Penang, Malaysia...easily found all of the parts, had a motorcycle repair shop press the new bearings on the shaft.

Hope this helps,

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Eastern Med


--- In mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com, "captain_cucumber_head" <mcerdos@...> wrote:

Hi,

I am hoping someone can help me with the model number of the blue Calpeda 220vac pump used for salt water cooling of the AC units. The brass plate on my pump is corroded and I am not able to clearly see the specs. This is for a 1999/2000 model SM. Thanks.

Mark

Cream Puff
SM #275



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Calpeda AC Pump

Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
 

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@...> wrote:

Mark,

Check the photo at: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/324976668/pic/154718279/view?picmode=large&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc

Also, the mechanical pump seal and the bearings are easy to replace. Usually, when the seal starts leaking, some salt water ruins the bearing closest to the pump. If you need 1 bearing, replace both of them. If you are not sure about rebuilding the pump, take it to a water-well pump shop or a swimming pool equipment repair facility. The water-well pump shop will be much better. They can rebuild the pump for you...the bearings and seal are standard sizes. If the pump has failed, you probably need a new capacitor...see: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/324976668/pic/58456993/view?picmode=&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc
A suitable replacement can be found at most any electrical supply store.

If you are looking to replace the Calpeda: Basic rule of thumb: 1 gallon per minute (GPM) is required for every 4,000 Btu's of capacity.
I believe each of the A/C units are 9,000btu.

9,000 * 3 = 27,000/4,000= 6.75gal/min * 3.785=25.55liters/min * 60 = 1,532 liters/hour....6,75gal/min * 60 = 405gal/hour

I rebuilt our Calpeda in Penang, Malaysia...easily found all of the parts, had a motorcycle repair shop press the new bearings on the shaft.

Hope this helps,

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Eastern Med



--- In amelyachtowners@..., "captain_cucumber_head" <mcerdos@> wrote:

Hi,

I am hoping someone can help me with the model number of the blue Calpeda 220vac pump used for salt water cooling of the AC units. The brass plate on my pump is corroded and I am not able to clearly see the specs. This is for a 1999/2000 model SM. Thanks.

Mark

Cream Puff
SM #275


Re: Calpeda AC Pump

Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Mark,

Check the photo at: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/324976668/pic/154718279/view?picmode=large&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc

Also, the mechanical pump seal and the bearings are easy to replace. Usually, when the seal starts leaking, some salt water ruins the bearing closest to the pump. If you need 1 bearing, replace both of them. If you are not sure about rebuilding the pump, take it to a water-well pump shop or a swimming pool equipment repair facility. The water-well pump shop will be much better. They can rebuild the pump for you...the bearings and seal are standard sizes. If the pump has failed, you probably need a new capacitor...see: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/324976668/pic/58456993/view?picmode=&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc
A suitable replacement can be found at most any electrical supply store.

If you are looking to replace the Calpeda: Basic rule of thumb: 1 gallon per minute (GPM) is required for every 4,000 Btu's of capacity.
I believe each of the A/C units are 9,000btu.

9,000 * 3 = 27,000/4,000= 6.75gal/min * 3.785=25.55liters/min * 60 = 1,532 liters/hour....6,75gal/min * 60 = 405gal/hour

I rebuilt our Calpeda in Penang, Malaysia...easily found all of the parts, had a motorcycle repair shop press the new bearings on the shaft.

Hope this helps,

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Eastern Med

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "captain_cucumber_head" <mcerdos@...> wrote:

Hi,

I am hoping someone can help me with the model number of the blue Calpeda 220vac pump used for salt water cooling of the AC units. The brass plate on my pump is corroded and I am not able to clearly see the specs. This is for a 1999/2000 model SM. Thanks.

Mark

Cream Puff
SM #275


Re: Calpeda AC Pump

Rink De Haan
 

To be more precise it is the CM-20 with article number 08.811.203 (at least at their catalogue).


Re: [Amel] File Under: Stuff you may not care to know

Sailormon <kimberlite@...>
 

What a novel idea to catch drinking water.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of captain_cucumber_head
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2012 5:51 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel] File Under: Stuff you may not care to know





Did you know if you turn the boom over to work on the outhaul motor and you
leave it upside-down in the rain for a couple of days, the boom fills up
with water :-)


Re: Calpeda AC Pump

Rink De Haan
 

Hi Mark,

The calpeda pump on our SM2000 #330 is the CM-20 Centrifugal Pump Model BMP-35.

I bought my in Holland at www.barcomarine.nl
It was about €500. But they could rebuild it for €250.

Hope this is helpful.

Rink
SM2K #330 Razor's Edge




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Bilge Pump

karkauai
 

Hi, Martin,
That's the pump I put on my boat.  I used a 1 inch hose on the barbs and that fit nicely into the larger hoses coming from the bilge and output.  I had to fashion an L-shaped shelf that fit where the old pump was mounted and used all the same wiring.  I've had two of the valves fail in the last 2 years.  The rubber valves are fine but the small "rivet" connector is poorly crimped on all of them.  I've peened it a bit more on the replacement valves since the second one failed but I'm not convinced that will be enough.  Next one that fails, I'm going to replace the "rivet" with a small stainless bolt and nylon washer which should last a long time.  I'd buy at least one more set of valves if that's the pump you decide to go with.  Too bad the valves are poorly designed/made, the pump is otherwise robust and should last a long time.

Sorry, no pics with me.  Dont know when I'll be back on the boat, but I can take a pic of the installation and send it to you next time I'm there.

Hope this helps.
Kent
SM 243
KRISTY




________________________________
From: Martin <yachtcaduceus@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2012 8:05 PM
Subject: Re: [Amel] Bilge Pump


 
The gearing on our Reya/AMFA bilge pump has broken and as we are in the USA rather than spend a long time getting the parts or a new pump I am considering replacing it with a Jabasco pump for which spare parts are more universally obtainable.

I have found a 24v belt driven Jabasco pump (34600) but note that this only has 1 inch inlet and outlets rather than the slightly larger ones on the Reya pump used by AMEL. I see from the thread 2 years ago that various replacements have been used. Can anyone advise please and if you have a satisfactory replacement perhaps some photographs of the installation.

Thanks,
Martin Bevan
Caduceus
Amel 54 #56




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Bilge Pump

Martin <yachtcaduceus@...>
 

The gearing on our Reya/AMFA bilge pump has broken and as we are in the USA rather than spend a long time getting the parts or a new pump I am considering replacing it with a Jabasco pump for which spare parts are more universally obtainable.

I have found a 24v belt driven Jabasco pump (34600) but note that this only has 1 inch inlet and outlets rather than the slightly larger ones on the Reya pump used by AMEL. I see from the thread 2 years ago that various replacements have been used. Can anyone advise please and if you have a satisfactory replacement perhaps some photographs of the installation.

Thanks,
Martin Bevan
Caduceus
Amel 54 #56


File Under: Stuff you may not care to know

Mark Erdos
 

Did you know if you turn the boom over to work on the outhaul motor and you leave it upside-down in the rain for a couple of days, the boom fills up with water :-)


Calpeda AC Pump

Mark Erdos
 

Hi,

I am hoping someone can help me with the model number of the blue Calpeda 220vac pump used for salt water cooling of the AC units. The brass plate on my pump is corroded and I am not able to clearly see the specs. This is for a 1999/2000 model SM. Thanks.

Mark

Cream Puff
SM #275


Re: [Amel] Re: Lewmar replacement winch switches

Sailormon <kimberlite@...>
 

Hi Joel,

Is this the same switch as is used on my boat?

Fair Winds

Eric







_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Joel F Potter
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2012 2:48 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel] Re: Lewmar replacement winch switches





I was the salesman for the new Amel 54 to the unfortunate folks who suffered
the horrible calamity on board related to a runaway winch due to a failed
switch and have been grilled by the plaintiffs lawyers for hours, I am very
familiar with all the elements of this situation.

As soon as it happened, I called my best rigger and had him research and
obtain suitable Lewmar replacement switches almost immediately. The ones I
got were a drop on fit, designed to “fail safe” in the no power possible
mode. I am now advised that those particular switches are no longer
available.

The day before I replaced them and with two Amel colleagues in the cockpit
of my 54, the starboard side winch commenced operation all by itself without
anyone touching a switch…

We starred at each other incredulously. I replace all three powered winch
switches the same day.

Please fellow Amel owners. Do not take your sweet time with this. Replace
the switches the next time you are aboard.

All the best,

Joel F. Potter

Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC

Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas

Mailing Address: 401 East Las Olas Boulevard #130-126

Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301

Phone: (954) 462-5869 Cell: (954) 812-2485

Email: <mailto:jfpottercys@... <mailto:jfpottercys%40att.net> >
jfpottercys@... <mailto:jfpottercys%40att.net>

<http://www.yachtworld.com/jfpottercys> www.yachtworld.com/jfpottercys

From: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Martin
Sent: Monday, August 27, 2012 10:31 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [Amel] Re: Lewmar replacement winch switches

Joel.

Presumeably you have the switch kit for your 54. How have you solved the
starboard winch switch fitting rep[ortedly being too deep for the space
available?

Regards,
Martin Bevan
Caduceus
Amel 54 #56

--- In amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , kcvabeach <kcvabeach@...>
wrote:

Thanks Joel, you are indeed The Man!


karkauai@... wrote:

Thanks Joel. You da MAN!
Sent from my BlackBerry� smartphone powered by Alltel

-----Original Message-----
From: "Joel F. Potter" <jfpottercys@...>
Sender: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2012 21:10:24
To: <amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> >
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [Amel] Re: Lewmar replacement winch switches

The 53 Super Maramu, except for perhaps the last few 2005 boats,
all had switches that were 'air operated' by a bellows that
pressured a connector plate to switch on the winches. It failed
in the 'can't work/fail safe mode' unlike the switches on the 54
.



All the best,

Joel



Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC

Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas

401 East Las Olas Boulevard, #130-126

Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301

Phone: (954) 462-5869

Email: jfpottercys@...
















------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Re: Lewmar replacement winch switches

amelforme
 

I was the salesman for the new Amel 54 to the unfortunate folks who suffered
the horrible calamity on board related to a runaway winch due to a failed
switch and have been grilled by the plaintiffs lawyers for hours, I am very
familiar with all the elements of this situation.

As soon as it happened, I called my best rigger and had him research and
obtain suitable Lewmar replacement switches almost immediately. The ones I
got were a drop on fit, designed to “fail safe” in the no power possible
mode. I am now advised that those particular switches are no longer
available.

The day before I replaced them and with two Amel colleagues in the cockpit
of my 54, the starboard side winch commenced operation all by itself without
anyone touching a switch…

We starred at each other incredulously. I replace all three powered winch
switches the same day.

Please fellow Amel owners. Do not take your sweet time with this. Replace
the switches the next time you are aboard.



All the best,

Joel F. Potter





Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC

Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas

Mailing Address: 401 East Las Olas Boulevard #130-126

Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301

Phone: (954) 462-5869 Cell: (954) 812-2485

Email: <mailto:jfpottercys@...> jfpottercys@...

<http://www.yachtworld.com/jfpottercys> www.yachtworld.com/jfpottercys



From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Martin
Sent: Monday, August 27, 2012 10:31 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel] Re: Lewmar replacement winch switches





Joel.

Presumeably you have the switch kit for your 54. How have you solved the
starboard winch switch fitting rep[ortedly being too deep for the space
available?

Regards,
Martin Bevan
Caduceus
Amel 54 #56

--- In amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , kcvabeach <kcvabeach@...>
wrote:

Thanks Joel, you are indeed The Man!


karkauai@... wrote:

Thanks Joel. You da MAN!
Sent from my BlackBerry� smartphone powered by Alltel

-----Original Message-----
From: "Joel F. Potter" <jfpottercys@...>
Sender: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2012 21:10:24
To: <amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> >
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [Amel] Re: Lewmar replacement winch switches

The 53 Super Maramu, except for perhaps the last few 2005 boats,
all had switches that were 'air operated' by a bellows that
pressured a connector plate to switch on the winches. It failed
in the 'can't work/fail safe mode' unlike the switches on the 54
.



All the best,

Joel



Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC

Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas

401 East Las Olas Boulevard, #130-126

Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301

Phone: (954) 462-5869

Email: jfpottercys@...







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


[Amel] Re: Lewmar replacement winch switches

Martin <yachtcaduceus@...>
 

Joel.

Presumeably you have the switch kit for your 54. How have you solved the starboard winch switch fitting rep[ortedly being too deep for the space available?

Regards,
Martin Bevan
Caduceus
Amel 54 #56

--- In amelyachtowners@..., kcvabeach <kcvabeach@...> wrote:

Thanks Joel, you are indeed The Man!


karkauai@... wrote:

Thanks Joel. You da MAN!
Sent from my BlackBerry� smartphone powered by Alltel

-----Original Message-----
From: "Joel F. Potter" <jfpottercys@...>
Sender: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2012 21:10:24
To: <amelyachtowners@...>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel] Re: Lewmar replacement winch switches

The 53 Super Maramu, except for perhaps the last few 2005 boats,
all had switches that were 'air operated' by a bellows that
pressured a connector plate to switch on the winches. It failed
in the 'can't work/fail safe mode' unlike the switches on the 54
.



All the best,

Joel



Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC

Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas

401 East Las Olas Boulevard, #130-126

Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301

Phone: (954) 462-5869

Email: jfpottercys@...
















------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links



Re: [Amel] runaway winch & switches

Duncan Hagemeyer
 

All the more reason to keep a proper, sharp knife hanging on hook at the helm….maybe an extra on your belt.



From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of karkauai@...
Sent: Sunday, August 26, 2012 6:35 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel] runaway winch & switches





Thanks for your detailed explanation, Serge. Like you, I'm no expert at things electrical. These systems have been very reliable on Amels for many years, but we have to know what to do in the event of a failure. And if there is a reasonable way to make them safer it would be wise to pirsue it. The primary winches are such powerful equipment that a runaway could cause a lot of damage if not injury.

Hope no one is in Isaac's way.
Kent
SM243
KRISTY
Sent from my BlackBerry® smartphone powered by Alltel

-----Original Message-----
From: Serge Tremblay <laetitiaii@... <mailto:laetitiaii%40yahoo.ca> >
Sender: amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 11:28:24
To: amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> <amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> >
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [Amel] runaway winch & switches

Hi Kent,

When I was suprised by the runaway winch, I immediately turned off the breaker on the panel above the fridge.

The winch seemed to stop, but I also ran to turn off the secondary breaker for the winches.

As I recall, 5 or 10 minutes later I did turn back on the secondary breaker and then the small breaker on the panel.
Nothing occured!

I tried the 2 operating switches next to the winch in the cockpit (there is also another switch in front of the helm - but i did not try it) and they both worked properly. I also tried operating the other winch ( Port) from the two switches in the cockpit. One of the switches did not work ! I must have been interrupted in my investigation since I retried the same switch the next day and it worked, I then spayed the contacts of the switches and of the relays with CorrosionX, and no disfunction reappeared.

When I finally (March of this year) dismanteled both circuits for the relays, the only obvious problem was noted for the Starboard relay. I suspect that for the Port winch, corrosion at the switch or its connection on the relay was the culprit! But the problem had no serious consequence and did not reoccur!

When I reinstalled the new relays, I followed the suggestion of a salesman that all the contacts be sprayed with clear varnish...

However the previous installation lasted so long, that I would have to be aboard at a 100+ year old to experiment with the same failures... with the same installation. I beleive that the 25% increase in price for the new higher duty relays is a small price for the added security.

The only concern I have for my fellow Amel owners and others using electric winches and windlass, is that, no matter how reliable is the installation, this equipment can and may cause serious harm if not used securely!
And relays and switches are rated for continuous or intermittent duty. Once contacts in switches or relays are damaged by arcquing,(? electrical arc) they become unreliable.

Finally I wonder if the spike suppression resistor or capacitor, set between the relay coil, that I learned of in electrical courses taken some 50 years ago, the capacitor being later replaced by diodes, could help preventing arcquing in the control switches. Without this spike suppression, I beleive that when the 12v switch is set to off, after being ON, the reverse voltage produced by the coil, could be a 100 volts or more! But this issue is beyond my limited knowledge. On the other hand, this could be a very inexpensive solution to damaging relay switches.
Maybe there is an expert in our group?

Serge V Opera Mango#51




________________________________

De : "karkauai@... <mailto:karkauai%40yahoo.com> " <karkauai@... <mailto:karkauai%40yahoo.com> >
À : "amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> " <amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> >
Envoyé le : dimanche 26 août 2012 12h25
Objet : Re: [Amel] runaway winch & switches





Very interesting Serge. Were you able to shut the winch off at the winch breaker on 24V panel, the breaker for that particular winch, AND the 24v house bank switch when you had the runaway? It thought that any of the three should cut the power to the winch, but because the wires to the breakers are so small, I'm wondering if the 24V panel breaker and the specific breaker for that winch only control power to the relay switch...in which case shutting off the 24v house bank switch at the batteries would be the only way to shut down power to the winch motor.
Kent
SM243
KRISTY

Sent from my BlackBerry® smartphone powered by Alltel

-----Original Message-----
From: Serge Tremblay <mailto:laetitiaii%40yahoo.ca>
Sender: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 08:57:29
To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com%3cmailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Reply-To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel] runaway winch & switches

Hi,

2 years ago, I intervened to report a runaway electric winch on my 1985 Mango ( ancestor to SM).

The switches were tested and showed no unusual caracteristic.

The relays were dismanteled and, on one of the positions, on one of the relays, there was a substantial resistance (measured in Ohms). This would evidence damage to the electrical contacts which would ( or could) cause overheating of the relay. Hence offer a probable cause for a disfunction. I cannot explain how, since I would have had to open these sealed relays, knowing that just by trying to open the relay, I could destroy any evidence of the consequence of overheating.

I replaced the relays, ensuring that I did not rely on the distributors assertion that the relays could work up to 1500 watts motors, since I discovered that, certain brands were 100 amp (continuous use) and other were 150 amps (continuous). I purchased the 150 amp model, at some +30E each. I also replaced the wiring between the relays and the motors (increasing the wire size), since there seemed to be some discoloration on the jacket of the wire???

No problem since then!

However the lesson has been learned:

Do not consider the winches or windlass as passive if the electric suply is ON. If any relay (called 'control box' by Lofrans) or switch in the circuit becomes defective...YOU may have to deal with the consequence of a runaway winch or windlass!

I use a winch to raise a crew up the mizzen and the windlass for the main! But the line is never locked on the self tailing and no more than 2 turns on the windlass (to avoid overlaping).

And I wonder if, the main fuse (or other similar electric protection) would cut out the electrical supply to the winch or windlass if and when the knots on the lines are pulled up to the top... and what would be the pressure exerted? Would the pulley or sheave break? I have heard riggers suggest not to use pulleys that are attached to the exterior of the mast, either directly with screws or with a shakle, would the risk be worsened with the use of an electric device?

Any specific knowledge in this group?

Serge, V Opera, Mango#51, lying in Martinique


________________________________
De : Duncan <mailto:wdhagemeyer%40gmail.com>
À : mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
Envoyé le : dimanche 26 août 2012 10h18
Objet : RE: [Amel] Re: Lewmar replacement winch switches





Hi Kent,

On shore leave for the past few months and must have missed the switch
discussion. (can't read all the posts)

I learned of the Antigua incident while there, and heard something about bad
switches. Is there a recall on the 54's. From a later post this morning, I
read comments that implied that the failure was with boats built 2005 or
earlier. My boat was built in the summer of 2005 and was marketed as a
2006. What is the process to apply for the kit and switches.

Duncan

-----Original Message-----
From: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
[mailto:mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of mailto:karkauai%40yahoo.com
Sent: Saturday, August 25, 2012 5:10 PM
To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Lewmar replacement winch switches

Does anyone know if this affects the SM's?

Kent

SM 243

KRISTY

Sent from my BlackBerryR smartphone powered by Alltel

-----Original Message-----

From: "Martin" <mailto:yachtcaduceus%40yahoo.co.uk>

Sender: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com

Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2012 23:03:02

To: <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

Reply-To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com

Subject: [Amel] Re: Lewmar replacement winch switches

I have also received the switch kit. Note that the problem is not just with
the genoa winch switches, it is also the main sheet6 winch and the anchor
windlass switches; hence why AMEL have sent 5 or 7 switches depending on
whether the boat has the second anchor winch option.

I have had two anchor winch switches fail due to water getting into the
internals and rotting the contacts, and I replaced them. Another developed,
for a short time the habit of occaisionally running on its own accord - good
seamanship says always tie the anchor down in this case to stop losing
everything overboard in the event of a switch failure.

I would imagine that Lewmar have a substantial problem with these switches,
not just with those fitted to Amel 54's.

Switch replacement next on the to do list.

Regards,

Martin

Caduceus

Amel 54 #56

--- In mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com, "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe"
<yahoogroups@...> wrote:

Hi Gary,
Did you order the switches, or were they sent to you because of a recall,
an update, or something related to Lewmar electric winch failures?

I am sure that you are aware of the loss of limbs on an Amel 54 in
Antigua. The Lewmar electric winch continued to run without any pressure on
the switch and pandemonium broke out on board resulting in the loss of an
arm from one crew member and the loss of fingers from another crew member.

If you received these switches as a recall or update, it is NOT just a
switch...AND...regardless, something like this is never just a switch.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Marmaris, Turkey
--- In mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com, "Dave_Benjamin" <dave_benjamin@>
wrote:

Gary,
It's just a switch. Maybe another manufacturer offers a windlass switch
that will better match the size of your opening. I wouldn't drill any holes
just to make that switch fit. Have you checked the Lewmar catalog to see
what other switches they may have?

--- In mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com, "bozo_cinq" <bozocinq@> wrote:
I have received the replacement winch switches from AMEL for my 54.
The switches are much larger than the original. Therefore, have run into a
problem in replacing the starboard cockpit switch in that to install the new
switch will mean that I will have to drill a hole through the ceiling in the
walk way above the captains bed/battery compartment. What have other 54
owners done to solve this issue????

Gary Wollenberg, #44
S/V Bozo Cinq


------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links













[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] runaway winch & switches

karkauai
 

Thanks for your detailed explanation, Serge. Like you, I'm no expert at things electrical. These systems have been very reliable on Amels for many years, but we have to know what to do in the event of a failure. And if there is a reasonable way to make them safer it would be wise to pirsue it. The primary winches are such powerful equipment that a runaway could cause a lot of damage if not injury.

Hope no one is in Isaac's way.
Kent
SM243
KRISTY
Sent from my BlackBerry® smartphone powered by Alltel

-----Original Message-----
From: Serge Tremblay <laetitiaii@...>
Sender: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 11:28:24
To: amelyachtowners@...<amelyachtowners@...>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel] runaway winch & switches

Hi Kent,
 
When I was suprised by the runaway winch, I immediately turned off the breaker on the panel above the fridge.
 
The winch seemed to stop, but I also ran to turn off the secondary breaker for the winches.
 
As I recall, 5 or 10 minutes later I did turn back on the secondary breaker and then the small breaker on the panel.
Nothing occured!
 
I tried the 2 operating switches next to the winch in the cockpit (there is also another switch in front of the helm - but i did not try it) and they  both worked properly. I also tried operating the other winch ( Port) from the two switches in the cockpit. One of the switches did not work ! I must have been interrupted in my investigation since I retried the same switch the next day and it worked, I then spayed the contacts of the switches and of the relays with CorrosionX, and no disfunction reappeared.
 
When I finally (March of this year)  dismanteled both circuits for the relays, the only obvious problem was noted for the Starboard relay. I suspect that for the Port winch, corrosion at the switch or its connection on the relay was the culprit! But the problem had no serious consequence and did not reoccur!
 
When I reinstalled the new relays, I followed the suggestion of a salesman that all the contacts be sprayed with clear varnish...
 
However the previous installation lasted so long, that I would have to be aboard at a 100+ year old to experiment with the same failures... with the same installation. I beleive that the 25% increase in price for the new higher duty relays is a small price for the added security.
 
The only concern I have for my fellow Amel owners and others using electric winches and windlass, is that, no matter how reliable is the installation, this equipment can and may cause serious harm if not used securely!
And relays and switches are rated for continuous or intermittent duty. Once contacts in switches or relays are damaged by arcquing,(? electrical arc) they become unreliable.
 
Finally I wonder if the spike suppression resistor or capacitor, set between the relay coil, that I learned of in electrical courses taken some 50 years ago, the capacitor being later replaced by diodes, could help preventing arcquing in the control switches. Without this spike suppression, I beleive that when the 12v switch is set to off, after being ON, the reverse voltage produced by the coil, could be a 100 volts or more! But this issue is beyond my limited knowledge. On the other hand, this could be a very inexpensive solution to damaging relay switches.
Maybe there is an expert in our group?
 
Serge V Opera  Mango#51
 
 
 
 
________________________________

De : "karkauai@..." <karkauai@...>
À : "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...>
Envoyé le : dimanche 26 août 2012 12h25
Objet : Re: [Amel] runaway winch & switches



 

Very interesting Serge. Were you able to shut the winch off at the winch breaker on 24V panel, the breaker for that particular winch, AND the 24v house bank switch when you had the runaway? It thought that any of the three should cut the power to the winch, but because the wires to the breakers are so small, I'm wondering if the 24V panel breaker and the specific breaker for that winch only control power to the relay switch...in which case shutting off the 24v house bank switch at the batteries would be the only way to shut down power to the winch motor.
Kent
SM243
KRISTY

Sent from my BlackBerry® smartphone powered by Alltel

-----Original Message-----
From: Serge Tremblay <mailto:laetitiaii%40yahoo.ca>
Sender: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 08:57:29
To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Reply-To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel] runaway winch & switches

Hi,
 
2 years ago, I intervened to report a runaway electric winch on my 1985 Mango ( ancestor to SM).
 
The switches were tested and showed no unusual caracteristic.
 
The relays were dismanteled and,  on one of the positions, on one of the relays, there was a substantial resistance (measured in Ohms). This would evidence damage to the electrical contacts which would ( or could) cause overheating of the relay. Hence offer a probable cause for a disfunction. I cannot explain how, since I would have had to open these sealed relays, knowing that just by trying to open the relay, I could destroy any evidence of the consequence of overheating.
 
I replaced the relays, ensuring that I did not rely on the distributors assertion that the relays could work up to 1500 watts motors, since I discovered that, certain brands were 100 amp (continuous use) and other were 150 amps (continuous). I purchased the 150 amp model, at some +30E each. I also replaced the wiring between the relays and the motors (increasing the wire size), since there seemed to be some discoloration on the jacket of the wire???
 
No problem since then!
 
However the lesson has been learned:
 
Do not consider the winches or windlass as passive if the electric suply is ON. If any relay (called 'control box' by Lofrans) or switch in the circuit becomes defective...YOU may have to deal with the consequence of a runaway winch or windlass!
 
I use a winch to raise a crew up the mizzen and the windlass for the main! But  the line is never  locked on the self tailing and no more than 2 turns on the windlass (to avoid overlaping).
 
And I wonder if, the main fuse (or other similar electric protection) would cut out the electrical supply to the winch or windlass if and when the knots on the lines are pulled up to the top... and what would be the pressure exerted? Would the pulley or sheave break? I have heard riggers suggest not to use pulleys that are attached to the exterior of the mast, either directly with screws or with a shakle, would the risk be worsened with the use of an electric device? 
 
Any specific knowledge in this group?
 
Serge, V Opera, Mango#51, lying  in Martinique 


________________________________
De : Duncan <mailto:wdhagemeyer%40gmail.com>
À : mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
Envoyé le : dimanche 26 août 2012 10h18
Objet : RE: [Amel] Re: Lewmar replacement winch switches



 

Hi Kent,

On shore leave for the past few months and must have missed the switch
discussion. (can't read all the posts)

I learned of the Antigua incident while there, and heard something about bad
switches. Is there a recall on the 54's. From a later post this morning, I
read comments that implied that the failure was with boats built 2005 or
earlier. My boat was built in the summer of 2005 and was marketed as a
2006. What is the process to apply for the kit and switches.

Duncan

-----Original Message-----
From: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
[mailto:mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of mailto:karkauai%40yahoo.com
Sent: Saturday, August 25, 2012 5:10 PM
To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Lewmar replacement winch switches

Does anyone know if this affects the SM's?

Kent

SM 243

KRISTY

Sent from my BlackBerryR smartphone powered by Alltel

-----Original Message-----

From: "Martin" <mailto:yachtcaduceus%40yahoo.co.uk>

Sender: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com

Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2012 23:03:02

To: <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

Reply-To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com

Subject: [Amel] Re: Lewmar replacement winch switches

I have also received the switch kit. Note that the problem is not just with
the genoa winch switches, it is also the main sheet6 winch and the anchor
windlass switches; hence why AMEL have sent 5 or 7 switches depending on
whether the boat has the second anchor winch option.

I have had two anchor winch switches fail due to water getting into the
internals and rotting the contacts, and I replaced them. Another developed,
for a short time the habit of occaisionally running on its own accord - good
seamanship says always tie the anchor down in this case to stop losing
everything overboard in the event of a switch failure.

I would imagine that Lewmar have a substantial problem with these switches,
not just with those fitted to Amel 54's.

Switch replacement next on the to do list.

Regards,

Martin

Caduceus

Amel 54 #56

--- In mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com, "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe"
<yahoogroups@...> wrote:

Hi Gary,
Did you order the switches, or were they sent to you because of a recall,
an update, or something related to Lewmar electric winch failures?

I am sure that you are aware of the loss of limbs on an Amel 54 in
Antigua. The Lewmar electric winch continued to run without any pressure on
the switch and pandemonium broke out on board resulting in the loss of an
arm from one crew member and the loss of fingers from another crew member.

If you received these switches as a recall or update, it is NOT just a
switch...AND...regardless, something like this is never just a switch.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Marmaris, Turkey
--- In mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com, "Dave_Benjamin" <dave_benjamin@>
wrote:

Gary,
It's just a switch. Maybe another manufacturer offers a windlass switch
that will better match the size of your opening. I wouldn't drill any holes
just to make that switch fit. Have you checked the Lewmar catalog to see
what other switches they may have?

--- In mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com, "bozo_cinq" <bozocinq@> wrote:
I have received the replacement winch switches from AMEL for my 54.
The switches are much larger than the original. Therefore, have run into a
problem in replacing the starboard cockpit switch in that to install the new
switch will mean that I will have to drill a hole through the ceiling in the
walk way above the captains bed/battery compartment. What have other 54
owners done to solve this issue????

Gary Wollenberg, #44
S/V Bozo Cinq


------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links














Re: [Amel] runaway winch & switches

Serge Tremblay <laetitiaii@...>
 

Hi Kent,
 
When I was suprised by the runaway winch, I immediately turned off the breaker on the panel above the fridge.
 
The winch seemed to stop, but I also ran to turn off the secondary breaker for the winches.
 
As I recall, 5 or 10 minutes later I did turn back on the secondary breaker and then the small breaker on the panel.
Nothing occured!
 
I tried the 2 operating switches next to the winch in the cockpit (there is also another switch in front of the helm - but i did not try it) and they  both worked properly. I also tried operating the other winch ( Port) from the two switches in the cockpit. One of the switches did not work ! I must have been interrupted in my investigation since I retried the same switch the next day and it worked, I then spayed the contacts of the switches and of the relays with CorrosionX, and no disfunction reappeared.
 
When I finally (March of this year)  dismanteled both circuits for the relays, the only obvious problem was noted for the Starboard relay. I suspect that for the Port winch, corrosion at the switch or its connection on the relay was the culprit! But the problem had no serious consequence and did not reoccur!
 
When I reinstalled the new relays, I followed the suggestion of a salesman that all the contacts be sprayed with clear varnish...
 
However the previous installation lasted so long, that I would have to be aboard at a 100+ year old to experiment with the same failures... with the same installation. I beleive that the 25% increase in price for the new higher duty relays is a small price for the added security.
 
The only concern I have for my fellow Amel owners and others using electric winches and windlass, is that, no matter how reliable is the installation, this equipment can and may cause serious harm if not used securely!
And relays and switches are rated for continuous or intermittent duty. Once contacts in switches or relays are damaged by arcquing,(? electrical arc) they become unreliable.
 
Finally I wonder if the spike suppression resistor or capacitor, set between the relay coil, that I learned of in electrical courses taken some 50 years ago, the capacitor being later replaced by diodes, could help preventing arcquing in the control switches. Without this spike suppression, I beleive that when the 12v switch is set to off, after being ON, the reverse voltage produced by the coil, could be a 100 volts or more! But this issue is beyond my limited knowledge. On the other hand, this could be a very inexpensive solution to damaging relay switches.
Maybe there is an expert in our group?
 
Serge V Opera  Mango#51
 
 
 
 
________________________________

De : "karkauai@..." <karkauai@...>
À : "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...>
Envoyé le : dimanche 26 août 2012 12h25
Objet : Re: [Amel] runaway winch & switches



 

Very interesting Serge. Were you able to shut the winch off at the winch breaker on 24V panel, the breaker for that particular winch, AND the 24v house bank switch when you had the runaway? It thought that any of the three should cut the power to the winch, but because the wires to the breakers are so small, I'm wondering if the 24V panel breaker and the specific breaker for that winch only control power to the relay switch...in which case shutting off the 24v house bank switch at the batteries would be the only way to shut down power to the winch motor.
Kent
SM243
KRISTY

Sent from my BlackBerry® smartphone powered by Alltel

-----Original Message-----
From: Serge Tremblay <mailto:laetitiaii%40yahoo.ca>
Sender: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 08:57:29
To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Reply-To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel] runaway winch & switches

Hi,
 
2 years ago, I intervened to report a runaway electric winch on my 1985 Mango ( ancestor to SM).
 
The switches were tested and showed no unusual caracteristic.
 
The relays were dismanteled and,  on one of the positions, on one of the relays, there was a substantial resistance (measured in Ohms). This would evidence damage to the electrical contacts which would ( or could) cause overheating of the relay. Hence offer a probable cause for a disfunction. I cannot explain how, since I would have had to open these sealed relays, knowing that just by trying to open the relay, I could destroy any evidence of the consequence of overheating.
 
I replaced the relays, ensuring that I did not rely on the distributors assertion that the relays could work up to 1500 watts motors, since I discovered that, certain brands were 100 amp (continuous use) and other were 150 amps (continuous). I purchased the 150 amp model, at some +30E each. I also replaced the wiring between the relays and the motors (increasing the wire size), since there seemed to be some discoloration on the jacket of the wire???
 
No problem since then!
 
However the lesson has been learned:
 
Do not consider the winches or windlass as passive if the electric suply is ON. If any relay (called 'control box' by Lofrans) or switch in the circuit becomes defective...YOU may have to deal with the consequence of a runaway winch or windlass!
 
I use a winch to raise a crew up the mizzen and the windlass for the main! But  the line is never  locked on the self tailing and no more than 2 turns on the windlass (to avoid overlaping).
 
And I wonder if, the main fuse (or other similar electric protection) would cut out the electrical supply to the winch or windlass if and when the knots on the lines are pulled up to the top... and what would be the pressure exerted? Would the pulley or sheave break? I have heard riggers suggest not to use pulleys that are attached to the exterior of the mast, either directly with screws or with a shakle, would the risk be worsened with the use of an electric device? 
 
Any specific knowledge in this group?
 
Serge, V Opera, Mango#51, lying  in Martinique 


________________________________
De : Duncan <mailto:wdhagemeyer%40gmail.com>
À : mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
Envoyé le : dimanche 26 août 2012 10h18
Objet : RE: [Amel] Re: Lewmar replacement winch switches



 

Hi Kent,

On shore leave for the past few months and must have missed the switch
discussion. (can't read all the posts)

I learned of the Antigua incident while there, and heard something about bad
switches. Is there a recall on the 54's. From a later post this morning, I
read comments that implied that the failure was with boats built 2005 or
earlier. My boat was built in the summer of 2005 and was marketed as a
2006. What is the process to apply for the kit and switches.

Duncan

-----Original Message-----
From: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
[mailto:mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of mailto:karkauai%40yahoo.com
Sent: Saturday, August 25, 2012 5:10 PM
To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Lewmar replacement winch switches

Does anyone know if this affects the SM's?

Kent

SM 243

KRISTY

Sent from my BlackBerryR smartphone powered by Alltel

-----Original Message-----

From: "Martin" <mailto:yachtcaduceus%40yahoo.co.uk>

Sender: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com

Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2012 23:03:02

To: <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

Reply-To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com

Subject: [Amel] Re: Lewmar replacement winch switches

I have also received the switch kit. Note that the problem is not just with
the genoa winch switches, it is also the main sheet6 winch and the anchor
windlass switches; hence why AMEL have sent 5 or 7 switches depending on
whether the boat has the second anchor winch option.

I have had two anchor winch switches fail due to water getting into the
internals and rotting the contacts, and I replaced them. Another developed,
for a short time the habit of occaisionally running on its own accord - good
seamanship says always tie the anchor down in this case to stop losing
everything overboard in the event of a switch failure.

I would imagine that Lewmar have a substantial problem with these switches,
not just with those fitted to Amel 54's.

Switch replacement next on the to do list.

Regards,

Martin

Caduceus

Amel 54 #56

--- In mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com, "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe"
<yahoogroups@...> wrote:

Hi Gary,
Did you order the switches, or were they sent to you because of a recall,
an update, or something related to Lewmar electric winch failures?

I am sure that you are aware of the loss of limbs on an Amel 54 in
Antigua. The Lewmar electric winch continued to run without any pressure on
the switch and pandemonium broke out on board resulting in the loss of an
arm from one crew member and the loss of fingers from another crew member.

If you received these switches as a recall or update, it is NOT just a
switch...AND...regardless, something like this is never just a switch.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Marmaris, Turkey
--- In mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com, "Dave_Benjamin" <dave_benjamin@>
wrote:

Gary,
It's just a switch. Maybe another manufacturer offers a windlass switch
that will better match the size of your opening. I wouldn't drill any holes
just to make that switch fit. Have you checked the Lewmar catalog to see
what other switches they may have?

--- In mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com, "bozo_cinq" <bozocinq@> wrote:
I have received the replacement winch switches from AMEL for my 54.
The switches are much larger than the original. Therefore, have run into a
problem in replacing the starboard cockpit switch in that to install the new
switch will mean that I will have to drill a hole through the ceiling in the
walk way above the captains bed/battery compartment. What have other 54
owners done to solve this issue????

Gary Wollenberg, #44
S/V Bozo Cinq
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