Re: [Amel] Lemma Insurance Bankruptcy
One more to Mr Geofrroy de Lasse, France. My insurance company is Groupama.
Roque Atica Amel 54 2012/10/22 Alexandre Uster von Baar <uster@...> ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Re: [Amel] Lemma Insurance Bankruptcy
Alexandre Uster von Baar
I use the same French insurance as Bill (S/V Bebe SM2K #387) http://www.assurances-delassee.com/
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They have a program especially for Amel. I talked directly to Mr Geoffroy de Lasse. Sincerely, Alexandre
--- On Mon, 10/22/12, Richard Piller <richard03801@...> wrote:
From: Richard Piller <richard03801@...> Subject: Re: [Amel] Lemma Insurance Bankruptcy To: "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...> Date: Monday, October 22, 2012, 12:30 PM  We use Al Golden of Jack Line here in the US A for all oceans insurance his email is mail@... phone: 1 (410) 827-3757 Richard on SM 209 for sale in Annapolis 603 767 5330 ________________________________ From: amelliahona <no_reply@...> To: amelyachtowners@... Sent: Monday, October 22, 2012 1:13 PM Subject: [Amel] Lemma Insurance Bankruptcy  I have had my Amel SM insured with Lemma Insurance (Lemma Europe Insurance Company) through Bill Coats at Offshore Risk Management of Florida. On 17 Oct 2012 I received an eMail from Offshore Risk Management indicating that Lemma Europe is in liquidation and that, while my policy is in force, there is a strong possibility that there be insufficient funds to pay future claims. OH GREAT!!! I have roughly 1/4th of my annual $US 6,500 premium tied up in this now bankrupt company. I would welcome any thoughts from the readership on different brokers or insurance companies. I feel like I need to secure alternative insurance soon, just in case. I think I will go with a USA company since things look so bleak for Europe right now (not that they are all that great for the USA). My boat is on the hard in a cradle in Jolly Harbor Antigua. We have kept the boat in the hurricane box for each of the last 6 years. The one time we brought the boat out of the box was to Florida where we had 3 hurricanes come close, one within 60 miles of our boat, while there. We finally went back to the Caribbean where we have felt safer from hurricanes. Thanks for your input. Gary Silver Amel SM 335 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Re: [Amel] Lemma Insurance Bankruptcy
Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
We use Al Golden of Jack Line here in the US A for all oceans insurance his email is mail@...
phone: 1 (410) 827-3757 Richard on SM 209 for sale in Annapolis 603 767 5330 ________________________________ From: amelliahona <no_reply@...> To: amelyachtowners@... Sent: Monday, October 22, 2012 1:13 PM Subject: [Amel] Lemma Insurance Bankruptcy  I have had my Amel SM insured with Lemma Insurance (Lemma Europe Insurance Company) through Bill Coats at Offshore Risk Management of Florida. On 17 Oct 2012 I received an eMail from Offshore Risk Management indicating that Lemma Europe is in liquidation and that, while my policy is in force, there is a strong possibility that there be insufficient funds to pay future claims. OH GREAT!!! I have roughly 1/4th of my annual $US 6,500 premium tied up in this now bankrupt company. I would welcome any thoughts from the readership on different brokers or insurance companies. I feel like I need to secure alternative insurance soon, just in case. I think I will go with a USA company since things look so bleak for Europe right now (not that they are all that great for the USA). My boat is on the hard in a cradle in Jolly Harbor Antigua. We have kept the boat in the hurricane box for each of the last 6 years. The one time we brought the boat out of the box was to Florida where we had 3 hurricanes come close, one within 60 miles of our boat, while there. We finally went back to the Caribbean where we have felt safer from hurricanes. Thanks for your input. Gary Silver Amel SM 335 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Lemma Insurance Bankruptcy
amelliahona <no_reply@...>
I have had my Amel SM insured with Lemma Insurance (Lemma Europe Insurance Company) through Bill Coats at Offshore Risk Management of Florida. On 17 Oct 2012 I received an eMail from Offshore Risk Management indicating that Lemma Europe is in liquidation and that, while my policy is in force, there is a strong possibility that there be insufficient funds to pay future claims.
OH GREAT!!! I have roughly 1/4th of my annual $US 6,500 premium tied up in this now bankrupt company. I would welcome any thoughts from the readership on different brokers or insurance companies. I feel like I need to secure alternative insurance soon, just in case. I think I will go with a USA company since things look so bleak for Europe right now (not that they are all that great for the USA). My boat is on the hard in a cradle in Jolly Harbor Antigua. We have kept the boat in the hurricane box for each of the last 6 years. The one time we brought the boat out of the box was to Florida where we had 3 hurricanes come close, one within 60 miles of our boat, while there. We finally went back to the Caribbean where we have felt safer from hurricanes. Thanks for your input. Gary Silver Amel SM 335
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Re: Need INFO
amelliahona <no_reply@...>
Hi Kent:
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I am not sure what the first digits of that serial number are, but the SM 88 means this is Super Maramu hull # 88. Mine is hull number 335 and is a 2001. Amel, at that time, built 45 boats per year and that works out. As to cleaning the bilge sump, disconnect the two spade connectors that go to the bilge pump switch on the gray plastic tube that contains the bilge pump float. Slip the 5 foot long gray plastic tube out of its holder and using a bucket to prevent dripping dirty water from getting on things in the engine room lift the tube out and take it outside to clean it. Now you have better access to the deep sump, poor in some bilge cleaner, fill the sump with some water (warm is better) and using a long handled brush, got to work. You can short the spade connectors together to activate the bilge pump to empty the sump. Repeat this process several times and you will have a fairly clean sump. A hose with a pressure nozzle helps also. Lastly, reinstall the clean sump float tube back in its holder and connect up the wires. You will also want to pump the last amount of water out of the sump periodically using the manual pump located at the helm (the handle for this is located on the inboard wall of the cockpit port lazarette . The inlet for the manual pump is set deeper in the sump than the inlet for the electric pump. Hope this helps, Gary Silver s/v Liahon Amel SM 335 (July 2001 delivery)
--- In amelyachtowners@..., Ken Simons <svmakai007@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel] watermaker feed pump problem (160 l/h)
amelliahona <no_reply@...>
I believe Kent is on to something here. The only logic that will cause the red light to come on is High Pressure. Kent, if you have the original logic board, salinity does not cause a red light and bypass activation. That was the way it was supposed to work but that circuity was never hooked up at the control board level. ( see previous post about this brouhaha )
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If the blue manual override lever on the BP pump (low pressure feed pump) 220 volt control relay [hereafter called the 220 VAC BP pump control relay] (the large relay in the box, NOT the small 24 volt control really on the logic board) causes the pump to operate normally, then that totally excludes any problem with your pump or 220 volt power to the pump. The pumps use two relays to control them. We refer to this a "ganged relays". The theory is that a small relay is controlled by some sort of logic, and that small relay then controls a larger relay that is capable of heavy electrical loads. In the case of the Dessalator original 160l/hr control circuit, the logic is provided by the high pressure switch. It was supposed to have a salinity sensor also providing logic but we know that circuit was never utilized on the original installation. That was corrected by Dessalator with their second generation control board. The small relay (24 VDC BP pump control relay) is Relay #1 on the circuit board, and the large relay (220 VAC BP pump control relay) is the one with the blue lever in the electrical box. To trouble shoot this you need to test each section of these components in a logical manner. The 220 VAC circuit breaker must be on and the rotary control switch on the water maker must be on to test the system. The rotary switch just supplies power to the control circuit board. PLEASE BE CAUTIOUS AS YOU DO THIS TROUBLE SHOOTING BECAUSE YOU WILL HAVE TO HAVE THE WATER MATER BREAKER ACTIVATED AND THE WATER MAKER ROTARY CONTROL SWITCH ON AND THERE IS HIGH VOLTAGE IN THIS BOX DURING THOSE TIMES. DON'T KILL YOURSELF!!!) Did I understand correctly that you "do not" have 24 volt control power to the coil of the 220 volt control relay? You should have 24 volts at that location any time the rotary water maker switch on the water maker control panel is in the "On" position (measure each leg of the coil referenced to ground while the water maker rotary switch is turned on and the water maker CB on the 220 volt panel in the galley is activated). Alternatively verify that you have 24 VDC on Pin 8 of Plug 1 on the control board (see the schematic in the files section under Dessalator Technical Info > Schematic-Dessalator Board) The control circuit for the 220 volt control relay should have 24 volts on it anytime the water maker rotary switch is turned on. Actual control is by completing the circuit by providing a sink to ground via Relay 1. The mere fact that the BP pump starts, even momentarily at times, would indicate that you have a logic problem (i.e. the HP switch is defective), not a control relay problem. However, to further test: 1. Verify that the 2 amp fuse in Fuse holder #2 is ok. In fact, check the continuity of each of the control board fuses. Check continuity with your ohm meter, don't just depend upon eyesight. Fuse 2 is the ground sink fuse for Relay 1 which is the control relay for the BP pump relay (low pressure pump). 2. Verify that you have 24 VDC on pin 5 of PLUG 1 of the control board. 3. Verify that you have 24 VDC on pin 8 of PLUG 1 of the control board. 4. Verify that you have 24 VDC on one of the coil pins at the BP pump 220 volt control relay. 5. Using a test lead wire sink pin 9 of plug 1 to the base of Fuse 2 (use the inboard side of the fuse holder, i.e. the end that faces all the electrical components so that if there is a short of some sort it will blow this fuse ) and see if this then activates the 220 VAC BP pump control relay. If providing this ground activates the 220 volt control relay then the problem is that the logic on the board isn't activating the 24 volt control board BP pump relay (Relay 1). I do not remember if the High Pressure Sensor is a normally open or normally closed switch but it is really the only logic input to the control board. Therefore if you either open that circuit or short that circuit (i.e. disconnect the wire to Pin 8 or Pin 9 on PLUG 2 of the control board to open the circuit, or short pin 8 to pin 9 of PLUG 2 to close that circuit) you should be able to verify the logic integrity. Pressure switches do fail and I am guessing that your switch is faulty. You could remove the pressure switch and test it's continuity with an ohm meter using compressed air to activate the switch to see at what pressure it operates. If you do this or can confirm if this switch is a NO or NC (normally open or normally closed) switch it would be helpful. Gentle tapping on a pressure switch at times may assist in troubleshooting by breaking something loose. One last question, If you provide a manual override of the BP pump control relay with the blue lever, does the high pressure pump start normally even though the red LED illuminates? I hope this helps. If all I have done is add to the confusion please feel free to advise so. Gary Silver Amel SM #335
--- In amelyachtowners@..., karkauai@... wrote:
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kimberlite--remove small kimberlite photos
eric <kimberlite@...>
There are two kimberlite photo entries. one has 6 photos that I would like to delete. how do i do that?
thanks fair winds eric sm 376 kimnerlite.
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how to change the veneer on the companionay
eric <kimberlite@...>
If you remove the stops on the door you can raise it up to the dodger with a
foot of space under the door with it open all the way. You will see in the photos a piece of wood holding the door up. I made a rail that I clamped parallel to the edge of the door which is shown in the photos. It is the same height as the door rails. This allowed me to rout right up to the rails where the door slides. I had to find an extra long router bit for this. This also allowed me to rout the door deeper than the veneer to accommodate the thicker Formica. After some sanding and making a template it fit perfectly and is a nice match to the teak, once I re do the teak. The entire panel was replaced except the small area that is under the area where the door slides up and down. I am not worried about this area as it is out of the sun and is never seen. Fair Winds Eric Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite
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Re: [Amel] Removing companion way door
Sailormon <kimberlite@...>
I posted some photos how we companionway laminate along with a commentary
The photos are in the photo section in the large Kimberlite file. They are the last photos. Fair Winds Eric Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite _____ From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Ken Simons Sent: Monday, October 22, 2012 10:14 AM To: amelyachtowners@... Subject: [Amel] Removing companion way door Hello Amel group,,, The lamination on the companion way door has been removed,and we would like to replace it...... Is there a way to remove the door without TAKING OFF the whole winshield and dodger ??????? Also we are still looking for a new home for her...... Ill have all the specs and photos this week ready to send.... Thanks Ken Simons
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Removing companion way door
Ken Simons <svmakai007@...>
Hello Amel group,,,
              The lamination on the companion way door has been removed,and we would like to replace it...... Is there a way to remove the door without TAKING OFF the whole winshield and dodger ??????? Also we are still looking for a new home for her...... Ill have all the specs and photos this week ready to send....                  Thanks         Ken Simons
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Re: [Amel] Mast angle SM BIT MORE ABOUT MAST RAKE
Barbara Nairne
________________________________
From: Ian & Judy Jenkins <ianjudyjenkins@...> To: "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...> Sent: Sunday, 21 October 2012 5:19 AM Subject: RE: [Amel] Mast angle SM Â Hi Mike, We have just had our rig retensioned by Amel in Hyeres. We had replaced our first genoa with a smaller one when we sailed in Chile but now that we are in the Med we reverted to a full size, 71 sq m version. Having done so, we experienced a lot of oscillation on unfurling the new genoa, less so while furling. The forestay was too slack. The Amel guys have put a lot of tension back by tightening up on the back stay and this has largely solved the oscillation issue. After they had tensioned the backstay I noticed that there was a slight aft bend in the main mast, only noticeable by standing at the foot of the mast and sighting up it.I asked the Amel guys about this and they said a slight aft bend was fine. It certainly seems to be. We have sailed about 600 miles since, recently returning from Hyeres to Ragusa in Sicily, a wonderful passage with the wind either on the beam or the quarter anywhere between 15 and 30 knots true, so no windward sailing so far. In these conditions I have not detected any different in the rudder performance. Fair winds, Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Ragusa, Sicily To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Re: [Amel] Osmosis
nezih nezih
Ty. I dint buy that boat Tirnanog. Reparing cost was too much. And I had to wait a few month to dry the hull.
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I found another maramu in St Martin  newst age ,more cheaper and more clean. Regards Nezih Mahayana AM88
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Re: Rain,rain...go away...Maramu 1989
jjjk12s <jjjk12s@...>
Ross,
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I have recently redone all the vinyl in the heads and removed and re-installed the gromet in the process. It was a tight secure fit but if for some reason it has been removed and not sealed in properly (that is if the wall linings have been replaced) water could track around it. You could also make sure the seal between the shower pan and the wall is good underneath the gromet. I have used a neat bead of sealant around the edge of the pan to stop that water or shower water getting under the pan. On my maramu there is a space around the shower pan moulding under the sink for the pipes to the sink and I think freshwater can get down there when the shower is used vigorously (ie the kids!). So maybe not all the freshwater that gets into that space is from the rain.. I have seen some hard shade/covers for the small side hatches otherwise a sunbrella shade can help stop rain getting in the deck hatches, or there are designs for a sunbella cover with baffles to stop rain even in windy conditions. I find the forced air ventilation uses too much electricity for me so I have installed some Caframo fans. May the sun always shine! Regards, John Maramu #91 Popeye, Port Douglas (four hundred mils of rain in one day this May)
--- In amelyachtowners@..., "rossny@..." <rossny@...> wrote:
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Re: Mast angle SM
Dave_Benjamin
Mike,
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Joel Potter gave me the distinct impression that your mast should have zero rake. I would have the rigger restore your rake setting to zero.
--- In amelyachtowners@..., "goughs_au" <goughs_au@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel] Re: Rain,rain...go away...Maramu 1989
Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
Hi there is a weep hole at the top of the forward head that when delivered had a small hose/tube down to the shower pan.
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Under the mast there was a U in the wires that sets in a collection box/pan that collects any water or droppings it has to be cleaned out from time to time or water will end up in the bilge. Let us know show you have more questions. My phone is below. Regards Richard Piller Cell 603 767 5330
On Oct 20, 2012, at 15:10, "Joel F Potter" <jfpottercys@...> wrote:
Further to Mike's comments (both Ross and Mike were unfortunate enough to
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Re: [Amel] Mast angle SM
ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
Hi Mike, We have just had our rig retensioned by Amel in Hyeres. We had replaced our first genoa with a smaller one when we sailed in Chile but now that we are in the Med we reverted to a full size, 71 sq m version. Having done so, we experienced a lot of oscillation on unfurling the new genoa, less so while furling. The forestay was too slack. The Amel guys have put a lot of tension back by tightening up on the back stay and this has largely solved the oscillation issue. After they had tensioned the backstay I noticed that there was a slight aft bend in the main mast, only noticeable by standing at the foot of the mast and sighting up it.I asked the Amel guys about this and they said a slight aft bend was fine. It certainly seems to be. We have sailed about 600 miles since, recently returning from Hyeres to Ragusa in Sicily, a wonderful passage with the wind either on the beam or the quarter anywhere between 15 and 30 knots true, so no windward sailing so far. In these conditions I have not detected any different in the rudder performance. Fair winds, Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Ragusa, Sicily
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To: amelyachtowners@...
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Re: [Amel] Re: Rain,rain...go away...Maramu 1989
amelforme
Further to Mike's comments (both Ross and Mike were unfortunate enough to
have endured me as their broker), the drain hole that goes horizontally from the starboard side to the port side and then to the grommet, often get plugged up with various types of debris. Here in Fort Lauderdale it is the fruit seeds that pass through our avian friends as they lounge on the spreaders and triadic stay. Be sure the drain paths are kept clear or you can get some really nasty rot potential as Mike mentions. It is important that all of us Amel owners spend a few days with the new caretakers when we sell them our boats to educate them on all the unique stuff Amel boats have that others don't, and to make them familiar with the subtleties of all the systems. I do this for my used Amel boat clients much the same as Amel does for our new boat clients in La Rochelle on a new delivery. This is so very important! Ross, I offered to come over and spend a day on your boat while you were on the hard in that nasty shipyard but you declined my offer as you had two days of stuff to do and only a day and a half to do it all.The offer still stands if you want some assistance. All the best, Joel Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas Mailing Address: 401 East Las Olas Boulevard #130-126 Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301 Phone: (954) 462-5869 Cell: (954) 812-2485 Email: jfpottercys@... From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of goughs_au Sent: Saturday, October 20, 2012 2:53 PM To: amelyachtowners@... Subject: [Amel] Re: Rain,rain...go away...Maramu 1989 I have owned a 1984 Maramu, similar problem.....rainwater in the fwd bilge adjasent the head. Sorry did not find out exactly how it got there but suspected via the mast. One thing I do know though is freshwater in that area can be dangerous. I had to do extensive repairs to remove dry rot that was approaching the compression post. (caused by ingress of fresh water). Good luck! --- In amelyachtowners@..., "rossny@..." <rossny@...> wrote: on the bottom of the wire raceway. Rainwater is dripping and going down the vinyl covering the wall and going around the shower pan collecting underneath in the bilge. I shoved a plastic barb in the "grommet" with some tubing leading the water into the shower pan. Is it normal for the mast to leak ? Was a hose there originally ? What is the purpose of the metal "grommet" ? Do I need to re-step the mast ? #2- every hatch on the boat lets in water when it rains unless the hatchis closed tight. How do YOU get ventilation when it's raining ? Do I need to install covers ? Thank you all in advance for your comments!!!
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Re: [Amel] Rain,rain...go away...Maramu 1989
amelforme
Hello Ross. The grommet is the end of a water drain system as designed by
Amel. If you have a mast on a boat that has wiring for lights and electronics (such as wind instruments) that communicate with the inside of the boat, you have a very great potential for water leaks. I must add here that everyone I have ever shown an Amel to over the last 32 years will either be smiling or rolling their eyes with this story. You should be too as I told it to you those many years ago when I showed you the Super Maramu with your buddy here in Fort Lauderdale. How do I know I told you this? If I got you inside of and Amel during a sales showing, I told this story. To everyone. Always. Inside, just forward of the watertight door starboard side, there is a vertical door/flap up on the overhead. Open it. You will see the wires from the mast come out and go down into an open top box-like structure and then come up and out and go to the connection terminals. See how clean and shiny the connections are? That's because all the water that gets into the mast from rain or big seas comes out the same place the wires do. Because the wires go DOWN into the box and then back UP again, the water goes into the box as water will not flow/climb "up". The water from this area as well as a similar area on the portside eventually drains from these boxes (which are called watertraps) through the grommet. The water is then supposed to drain into the shower sump and then into the bilge sump in the engine room where it belongs. Adjust the horizontal grommet so the water drips into the shower sump pan or stick in a very short length of appropriately sized tubing so it will drain properly instead of dribbling down the head bulkhead. The drip drip drip noise can make those in the forward cabin get a little crazy so beware. I believe your boat has a pressurized fresh air ventilation system. It did when it was built. The controls are over the stove in the galley area. This will help when the boat is battened down. For tropical areas, shrouded hatch covers can be a life saver. Copy some on a fellow cruisers boat that have been proven to him (and to you) to work as many look sweet but work poorly. Have fun with your Amel. All the best, Joel Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas Mailing Address: 401 East Las Olas Boulevard #130-126 Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301 Phone: (954) 462-5869 Cell: (954) 812-2485 Email: jfpottercys@... From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of rossny@... Sent: Saturday, October 20, 2012 2:23 PM To: amelyachtowners@... Subject: [Amel] Rain,rain...go away...Maramu 1989 Hi all, I have two concerns (problems) with rainwater entering the boat. #1- in the forward head, just under the mast there is a metal (s/s)grommet on the bottom of the wire raceway. Rainwater is dripping and going down the vinyl covering the wall and going around the shower pan collecting underneath in the bilge. I shoved a plastic barb in the "grommet" with some tubing leading the water into the shower pan. Is it normal for the mast to leak ? Was a hose there originally ? What is the purpose of the metal "grommet" ? Do I need to re-step the mast ? #2- every hatch on the boat lets in water when it rains unless the hatch is closed tight. How do YOU get ventilation when it's raining ? Do I need to install covers ? Thank you all in advance for your comments!!!
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Re: Rain,rain...go away...Maramu 1989
goughs_au <goughs_au@...>
I have owned a 1984 Maramu, similar problem.....rainwater in the fwd bilge adjasent the head. Sorry did not find out exactly how it got there but suspected via the mast. One thing I do know though is freshwater in that area can be dangerous. I had to do extensive repairs to remove dry rot that was approaching the compression post. (caused by ingress of fresh water). Good luck!
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--- In amelyachtowners@..., "rossny@..." <rossny@...> wrote:
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Rain,rain...go away...Maramu 1989
rossny@mail.com
Hi all,
I have two concerns (problems) with rainwater entering the boat. #1- in the forward head, just under the mast there is a metal (s/s)grommet on the bottom of the wire raceway. Rainwater is dripping and going down the vinyl covering the wall and going around the shower pan collecting underneath in the bilge. I shoved a plastic barb in the "grommet" with some tubing leading the water into the shower pan. Is it normal for the mast to leak ? Was a hose there originally ? What is the purpose of the metal "grommet" ? Do I need to re-step the mast ? #2- every hatch on the boat lets in water when it rains unless the hatch is closed tight. How do YOU get ventilation when it's raining ? Do I need to install covers ? Thank you all in advance for your comments!!!
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