John,

If your tank is anything like mine you cant get to the back of the strainer
from the inspection port there is a baffle in the way.. I would suggest
pumping the tank out into Gerry can or a few drums and remove and inspect
the filter it is very easy..



I have a jabsco vane pump and a large racor filter that I made up for my old
boat that I use on the Amel. I have a long soft piece of copper tubing
leading to the racor filter. From there to the jabsco pump. then to fuel
rated hose. I "polish" my own tank with this gadget once a year to clean the
crud off the bottom of the tank. It works like a charm. At Ian Jenkins
suggestion (Pen Azen) I also had Amel install a humongous racor filter and
50 liter per minute pump. As I fill the tank the fuel is pre filtered
through the racor and the fuel goes in extremely clean.

Fair winds,

Eric







_____

From: Anne and John Hollamby [mailto:hollamby@compuserve.com]
Sent: Thursday, August 05, 2004 5:11 AM
To: INTERNET:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Engine-Autoprop problem



Message text written by INTERNET:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com

<

Thanks Eric for the bad news that there is an inaccessible filter built in
to the bottom of the fuel tank. The engine problem is similar to the one I
had years ago on my Oyster 435. This I tracked down to "secret" filter in
the bottom of the fuel tank which started life as a sandwich about 6"x 3" x
2" thick. The tank was GRP and the fuel lines were connected through the
top of it. The 2" sides were made of fine brass mesh and as my fuel had
suffered from a bacterial infection which I may have made worse by using a
bactericide thus putting a lot of corpses into the tank. I limped into
harbour by blowing down the fuel line for the heater which gave very
temporary relief with full power. When I opened the inspection hatch I was
able to pull the filter above the fuel level to find that the filter was
now only about one inch thick as the vacuum from the fuel pump had
collapsed the filter which was clogged with black sludge. I removed the
filter and threw it away, bending the two pipes (one was for an oil fired
heater not installed) back so that the fuel line did not reach the bottom
and the spare pipe down to the bottom so that I could suck out condensation
water from the bottom of the tank from time to time.
I am sorry to see that Amel put an inaccessible filter in the bottom of the
tank as well as mounting the Racor filter so low down that it is hard to
service. I now plan to run my tank nearly dry so that I can empty it and
throw away that internal filter.
When I was in Fiji I had the injector pump serviced (after about 12,000
hours) and the Bosch agent there suggested that he should "polish the
fuel". What this involved, and may solve the present problem without
draining the tank, was that he came along with a trolley fitted with two
very large Racor filters and an electric pump. The pump inlet was a long
tube on the end of a hose so that he could move the suction around the
bottom of the tank. The polished fuel was of course returned to the tank
making a nice swirling movement to stir up all the detritus of deceased
bacteria etc.. The process took several hours. If this solution is taken
then the only other precaution neccessary would be to blow air or fuel back
down into the tank to purge that silly internal filter whilst the polishing
is being done.
It will be interesting to hear the outcome in due course !

Best wishes from Croatia, John, Bali Hai, SM319





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Pen Azen is SM 302,June 2000 launch. The boat is in Chile but I am presently in England and need a couple of spares.I have my Volvo serial number but I dont know if the TMD22 is an A, B or C.Apparently there are subtle differences. Has anyone an SM close to mine who has the answer?
Also, when I suggested to the Volvo agents here that I should have the valve clearance checked ( I have 1500 hours) they said that this engine doesnt need it and implied that it would never need it. Does that make sense?
Ian and Judy Jenkins.

_________________________________________________________________
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Message text written by INTERNET:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com

<

Thanks Eric for the bad news that there is an inaccessible filter built in
to the bottom of the fuel tank. The engine problem is similar to the one I
had years ago on my Oyster 435. This I tracked down to "secret" filter in
the bottom of the fuel tank which started life as a sandwich about 6"x 3" x
2" thick. The tank was GRP and the fuel lines were connected through the
top of it. The 2" sides were made of fine brass mesh and as my fuel had
suffered from a bacterial infection which I may have made worse by using a
bactericide thus putting a lot of corpses into the tank. I limped into
harbour by blowing down the fuel line for the heater which gave very
temporary relief with full power. When I opened the inspection hatch I was
able to pull the filter above the fuel level to find that the filter was
now only about one inch thick as the vacuum from the fuel pump had
collapsed the filter which was clogged with black sludge. I removed the
filter and threw it away, bending the two pipes (one was for an oil fired
heater not installed) back so that the fuel line did not reach the bottom
and the spare pipe down to the bottom so that I could suck out condensation
water from the bottom of the tank from time to time.
I am sorry to see that Amel put an inaccessible filter in the bottom of the
tank as well as mounting the Racor filter so low down that it is hard to
service. I now plan to run my tank nearly dry so that I can empty it and
throw away that internal filter.
When I was in Fiji I had the injector pump serviced (after about 12,000
hours) and the Bosch agent there suggested that he should "polish the
fuel". What this involved, and may solve the present problem without
draining the tank, was that he came along with a trolley fitted with two
very large Racor filters and an electric pump. The pump inlet was a long
tube on the end of a hose so that he could move the suction around the
bottom of the tank. The polished fuel was of course returned to the tank
making a nice swirling movement to stir up all the detritus of deceased
bacteria etc.. The process took several hours. If this solution is taken
then the only other precaution neccessary would be to blow air or fuel back
down into the tank to purge that silly internal filter whilst the polishing
is being done.
It will be interesting to hear the outcome in due course !

Best wishes from Croatia, John, Bali Hai, SM319

I have seen a super mistral at marseille harbour in France. You can
contact the CNTL.
Best regards
Patrick.

Clean/replace all your fuel filters and let us know
what happens.
Diagnosis based on "started up and made power after
sailing in rough seas" probably shook enough trash off
the prefilter/filter media to allow full flow.
If the prop failed to fully deploy you would have a
overspeed condition due to lack of resistance.
--- Dimitris <dkra@pcsystems.gr> wrote:

I am facing continuously the following problem
which annoys me very
much and can even become dangerous.

I am starting the engine and everything is ok. I can
increase the
revolutions and the power without any problem. I go
out of the
harbor and I stop the engine for sailing every time
I am starting
the engine (after sailimg and without furling in all
sails ) I have
to wait 10 minutes until the engine increases
revolutions and the
power and as you can imagine I never know if this is
going to happen
when I am approaching land I start the engine well
before hoping
that the engine will work. I think that it could be
that the
autoprop is starting to unfold but to me it is not
normal that the
engine can not increase the revolutions. It never
happened when I
start the engine after leaving with the boat from
the harbor. I had
a technician onboard and he told me that propably
this happens
because the tank was half empty and the fuel went
out of the engine
back to the tank and the fuel pump needs time to
refill the engine
and increase the revolutions and the power. I filled
the tank but
the same happens. I even tried to pump by hand the
fuel pump on the
engine but I could not see any improvement when the
problem arise
after sailing and starting the engine.

I was suspecting air in the fuel circuit as I had
also when the boat
was delivered to me but the technician is not
convinced. He proposed
to put an electric fuel pump after the Racor filter
but I am not
very keen of doing that. . Could it be a fuel filter
problem?


This week-end I made a test suggested by Amel . As
always you never
have the problem when you are trying to find a
solution for that. I
sailed for about 45 minutes in a pretty rough sea of
about 25 Knots
apparent wind and when I started the engine it
worked normally. I
really do not know what is going on. I believe that
it is a problem
of the propeller but I do not know how long it takes
to fold and
unfold the blades. What I have done is that I furled
in the sails .
Normally when I started the engine I continue
sailing with the sails
in place and perhaps this speed is not allowing the
blades to
unfold.

Has somebody had a similar problem?

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Y! Messenger - Communicate in real time. Download now.
http://messenger.yahoo.com

There is a small screen inside the fuel tank.

My guess is that the screen is getting plugged with some material in the
tank.

You have to drain the tank through the inspection port and then remove the
fuel shutoff and its fittings. You will then find a

Screen made of plastic inside the tank.

My guess this is probably the problem.

Eric

kimberlite



_____

From: Dimitris [mailto:dkra@pcsystems.gr]
Sent: Tuesday, August 03, 2004 5:35 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Engine-Autoprop problem



I am facing continuously the following problem which annoys me very
much and can even become dangerous.

I am starting the engine and everything is ok. I can increase the
revolutions and the power without any problem. I go out of the
harbor and I stop the engine for sailing every time I am starting
the engine (after sailimg and without furling in all sails ) I have
to wait 10 minutes until the engine increases revolutions and the
power and as you can imagine I never know if this is going to happen
when I am approaching land I start the engine well before hoping
that the engine will work. I think that it could be that the
autoprop is starting to unfold but to me it is not normal that the
engine can not increase the revolutions. It never happened when I
start the engine after leaving with the boat from the harbor. I had
a technician onboard and he told me that propably this happens
because the tank was half empty and the fuel went out of the engine
back to the tank and the fuel pump needs time to refill the engine
and increase the revolutions and the power. I filled the tank but
the same happens. I even tried to pump by hand the fuel pump on the
engine but I could not see any improvement when the problem arise
after sailing and starting the engine.

I was suspecting air in the fuel circuit as I had also when the boat
was delivered to me but the technician is not convinced. He proposed
to put an electric fuel pump after the Racor filter but I am not
very keen of doing that. . Could it be a fuel filter problem?


This week-end I made a test suggested by Amel . As always you never
have the problem when you are trying to find a solution for that. I
sailed for about 45 minutes in a pretty rough sea of about 25 Knots
apparent wind and when I started the engine it worked normally. I
really do not know what is going on. I believe that it is a problem
of the propeller but I do not know how long it takes to fold and
unfold the blades. What I have done is that I furled in the sails .
Normally when I started the engine I continue sailing with the sails
in place and perhaps this speed is not allowing the blades to
unfold.

Has somebody had a similar problem?






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Message text written by INTERNET:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com

<

I think it most unlikely to be an Autoprop problem. I would change the fuel
filters and if that did not do the trick I would suspect the injector pump.
The story about the tank being half full sounds like absolute rubbish.
Perhaps you need to change technician as well as filters !

Regards, John Hollamby, Bali Hai SM 319

I am facing continuously the following problem which annoys me very
much and can even become dangerous.

I am starting the engine and everything is ok. I can increase the
revolutions and the power without any problem. I go out of the
harbor and I stop the engine for sailing every time I am starting
the engine (after sailimg and without furling in all sails ) I have
to wait 10 minutes until the engine increases revolutions and the
power and as you can imagine I never know if this is going to happen
when I am approaching land I start the engine well before hoping
that the engine will work. I think that it could be that the
autoprop is starting to unfold but to me it is not normal that the
engine can not increase the revolutions. It never happened when I
start the engine after leaving with the boat from the harbor. I had
a technician onboard and he told me that propably this happens
because the tank was half empty and the fuel went out of the engine
back to the tank and the fuel pump needs time to refill the engine
and increase the revolutions and the power. I filled the tank but
the same happens. I even tried to pump by hand the fuel pump on the
engine but I could not see any improvement when the problem arise
after sailing and starting the engine.

I was suspecting air in the fuel circuit as I had also when the boat
was delivered to me but the technician is not convinced. He proposed
to put an electric fuel pump after the Racor filter but I am not
very keen of doing that. . Could it be a fuel filter problem?


This week-end I made a test suggested by Amel . As always you never
have the problem when you are trying to find a solution for that. I
sailed for about 45 minutes in a pretty rough sea of about 25 Knots
apparent wind and when I started the engine it worked normally. I
really do not know what is going on. I believe that it is a problem
of the propeller but I do not know how long it takes to fold and
unfold the blades. What I have done is that I furled in the sails .
Normally when I started the engine I continue sailing with the sails
in place and perhaps this speed is not allowing the blades to
unfold.

Has somebody had a similar problem?

Hello,

I'm new in your group and new with my boat (my first one), i'd just
bought !

It's a Super Mistral (1970).

I need anything you have on it, because I'm going in a full
refection !

But i did not have any plans, measure , even of the main sail i must
change.

I hope some of you will have something for me !

TIA

PS: sorry for my english, I'm french :)

Hello Fellow Amel enthusiasts.

While I have been lurking on this list for some time, I am only now a legitimate member as
I have finely acquired an Amel of my very own. She is a Sharki laying in Fort Lauderdale,
FL, USA. She is in need of some work and I am looking forward to making her my own. I
know from keeping up with this list that it is full of great people with great ideas and I
would love to hear from any of you any time. Of particular interest to me are tips and
tricks specific to the Sharki and her systems.

It would be very helpful to have as much first hand information about the original
systems as posable. I would love to get my hands on some schematics, wiring diagrams,
plumbing diagrams, architectural plans and a complete spec list for the 1980 Sharki. Is
there any anybody out there that might have some leads on this.

I have posted some photos to my own site because I know how much I have enjoyed
looking at other people's Amels.
Some of you may remember her from this list as "Amedee" I am still waiting for her new
name to come to me in a dream.

http://homepage.mac.com/northp/sharki/sharki.html

-North Pitney
Sharki Hull#30

Hi everyone,

As you may have noticed, we are over our 30MB photo storage limit.
As a result access is restricted until it's reduced. I notice
there's quite a few large (~400,000 byte) photos in 'Factory Tour'
folder. I will remove these--and store on CD offline.

Richard Tate
SM "Spice"

Hello Christian,

We have a Santorin, No 54 Khamsin B, which is a sloop. We also received a number of
arrangement drawings with it when we bought it just over a year ago. Unfortunately, I will
be away for two weks so I hope you can wait. Please let me know if you want them and I
will do my best to get them to you on my return on 30th July next.

Best regards,


Rob

Hi Christian,
I have a brochure of the santorin with the drawing arrangement of the ketch
+ sloop in it.
I can picture it and send by email or copy and fax it if you want.
Just give me your preference and where to send it.
You can answer to _peps47@aol.com_ (mailto:peps47@aol.com)
Georges Pellegrini
Santorin 132

Hi Chrisitian:

Sorry but I don't have a clew. Have you contact Joel Potter Amel's rep in
Fort Lauderdale? Or look up Amel@amel.fr on the web.

Good Luck.

Byron Henderson
sailslady@aol.com

Hello,

I plan to buy a Santorin ketch in the near future and would try to
get the drawings of it and general arrangement plans if available.
Do you know if and where I could find them ?

Thank you very much for your help

christian

The Link 10 on my boat also failed. It is not worth repairing as a
new one is about $200.00 and it is easy to replace. The replacement
unit has worked fine for the past two years. Check your wiring and
try a reset of the unit.

Vito

ASm # 283


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "baligand2001"
<baligand@h...> wrote:

Hello to all,

I'm facing problems with the ampmeter functions of the
Link 10 and wonder if any of you has already faced and solve the
same. My link 10 still provide a proper voltage measure but all

amps

indications have suddenly quit. It no longer provides either the
immediate amps consumption (A) which is stuck to a permanently
displayed number 509,or total amps consumed (AH) which actually

keep

increasing as opposed to the reverse and the related T function
which is stuck to 100 %. I checked the fuses which are all right,
disconnected the batteries to shut off the Link 10 and then switch
it on again but all to no avail.
I guess the Link 10 itself must be the culprit. Has
someone already taken the step of removing the Link 10 to bring it
in for repair ?
Amel have kindly mailed me a copy of the manual but

not

offered a solution.

Thank you.

Philippe GUYOT
Baligand SM 245

Thank you Dimitri

I would be very intrested in seing these pictures. Can you post them
on this site. If I can improve ventilation without cutting a hole in
on the deck that would be preffeble.

Thank you

Vito




--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Krassopoulos Dimitris
<dkra@p...> wrote:

Vito,

I have two hatches that can be open on the sides of the aft cabin.

This

creates excellent ventilation. Amel has installed for me these two

hatches

that are the normal side hatches that are in the galley and in the

aft bath.

I do not believe that it is very difficult to install. I can send

photos if

you wish. By doing that you do not need to saw into the aftdeck.

Dimitris
SM Alma Libre

_____

From: Naegels Patrick [mailto:naegels@t...]
Sent: Thursday, June 24, 2004 10:34 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Improved ventilation


Hi Vito,

there are no real problems to install 1 or 2 aft cabin hatches, and
it's a good idea to increase ventilation.

Aft cabin deck (in bed part only)is free of wiring, you can make a
hole in where you need. The only tip is to place a wood frame
instead of foam between 2 GRP hides (external and internal deck
side). Just scrape foam deep enough to be sure that scews or bolts
fixing hatch will be into wooden frame.

Think maybe to put 2 hatches in opposite opening (bow to and stern
to), but avoid to put them in starboard to and port to. This is
really less efficient.

Another problem is to have enough courage to saw into your nice and
fautless aft deck ...

Patrick

http://www.chez.com/amelcaramel/index.php
<http://www.chez.com/amelcaramel/index.php>
------------------------------------------------

I would like to ask if anyone has found a way to improve

ventilation

to the aft cabin. I am thinking of installing 2 hatches on the
overhead in the aft cabin. Has anyone done this? What are some of

the

problems or issues that I may face.

Thank You

Vito Ciaravino
Wanderer
ASM# 283

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Hi,
I hve bought AmelS.M. #53 in France and taken out of French register. I wish to register in Norway. Can any of the Amel owners advise me with the following:

To register in Norway the Maritime Directorate need the gross ton figure messured after the International convention of 1969. In that case I need a line drawing. The gross ton figure Amel give is 30,14, but the French messure after another Convention.
Do any of the owners hve a gross ton figure messured after 1969 Convention ? - or hve any solution to this problem. Fyi, in Norway they wl charge approx 1000 Euro to messure after a line drawings.
The boat is in South France.

Rgds Ivar

Vito,

I have two hatches that can be open on the sides of the aft cabin. This
creates excellent ventilation. Amel has installed for me these two hatches
that are the normal side hatches that are in the galley and in the aft bath.
I do not believe that it is very difficult to install. I can send photos if
you wish. By doing that you do not need to saw into the aftdeck.

Dimitris
SM Alma Libre

_____

From: Naegels Patrick [mailto:naegels@tvcablenet.be]
Sent: Thursday, June 24, 2004 10:34 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Improved ventilation


Hi Vito,

there are no real problems to install 1 or 2 aft cabin hatches, and
it's a good idea to increase ventilation.

Aft cabin deck (in bed part only)is free of wiring, you can make a
hole in where you need. The only tip is to place a wood frame
instead of foam between 2 GRP hides (external and internal deck
side). Just scrape foam deep enough to be sure that scews or bolts
fixing hatch will be into wooden frame.

Think maybe to put 2 hatches in opposite opening (bow to and stern
to), but avoid to put them in starboard to and port to. This is
really less efficient.

Another problem is to have enough courage to saw into your nice and
fautless aft deck ...

Patrick

http://www.chez.com/amelcaramel/index.php
<http://www.chez.com/amelcaramel/index.php>
------------------------------------------------

I would like to ask if anyone has found a way to improve

ventilation

to the aft cabin. I am thinking of installing 2 hatches on the
overhead in the aft cabin. Has anyone done this? What are some of

the

problems or issues that I may face.

Thank You

Vito Ciaravino
Wanderer
ASM# 283

Yahoo! Groups Sponsor

ADVERTISEMENT




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<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/>


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<mailto:amelyachtowners-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com?subject=Unsubscribe>


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<http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> .

Hi Vito,

there are no real problems to install 1 or 2 aft cabin hatches, and
it's a good idea to increase ventilation.

Aft cabin deck (in bed part only)is free of wiring, you can make a
hole in where you need. The only tip is to place a wood frame
instead of foam between 2 GRP hides (external and internal deck
side). Just scrape foam deep enough to be sure that scews or bolts
fixing hatch will be into wooden frame.

Think maybe to put 2 hatches in opposite opening (bow to and stern
to), but avoid to put them in starboard to and port to. This is
really less efficient.

Another problem is to have enough courage to saw into your nice and
fautless aft deck ...

Patrick

http://www.chez.com/amelcaramel/index.php
------------------------------------------------

I would like to ask if anyone has found a way to improve

ventilation

to the aft cabin. I am thinking of installing 2 hatches on the
overhead in the aft cabin. Has anyone done this? What are some of

the

problems or issues that I may face.

Thank You

Vito Ciaravino
Wanderer
ASM# 283