Message text written by INTERNET:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com

<

I am hoping that Dimitris will tell us whether and how he has solved the
engine problem, it certainly sent me under the boat to polish the prop to
gleaming bright with 100 wet and dry sandpaper.
On a minor note the macerator pump on our aft head started leaking after
about two and a half years liveaboard use. I replaced the seal with Jabsco
part no 90197-0000.
Doing this I found that the pumps in both heads had been wrongly assembled
and thus likely to damage the motors when the seals start leaking. The
motor is black and bolted on to it is the pump assembly which can be fitted
in two ways. The correct way will place the weep holes at the bottom and
the top of the motor and the incorrect way will place them horizontally as
my ones were. This means that when the seal goes the back end of the pump
casig will fill to half way before the leaky "water" can escape thus
immersing the front bearing. It is not difficult to remove the whole
assembly and correct the fault before any damage is done.

Best wishes from the new headmaster, John on Bali Hai
SM 319

I agree with Patrick, IF you are just wanting to darken the lines,
the little paint striping tool is the best. We just finished all
the lines on Hanalei--bought the striping tool at JC Whitney and it
is available online--
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/ProductDisplay/s-10101/storeId-
10101/p-3196/c-10101/catalogId-10101 Make sure you buy the kit 2-
stripe kit (ZX155343B). You can combine the assortment of small
brass wheels to be exactly the width of your deck lines. The kit
also comes with an extra bottle, which is handy. I used Pettit
Easypoxy 1-part Polyurethane paint (Bittersweet brown) which is
available at West Marine and elsewhere and was happy with it. Use a
squeeze bottle, like a dish detergent bottle to refill it. I used
the helpful advice from Ann and Ralph on SM#160 Harmonie posted on
September 6, 2003. Preparation of the grooves by sanding, etc.
according to the instructions on the paint is important. In
addition to the "2 stripe tool", I would add one ingredient to their
instructions--a money hungry college kid who will work for $9/hour.
Total labor cost was $440 (I supplied the knee pads).

Bob, Hanalei

<jochen@j...> wrote:

Hello to all fellow Amel owners.

I would like to address an issue many of the ones of you owning
older Amel yachts will probably face as well.

One day the time comes when you have to revitalize your boat's

deck,

i.e. repaint the white antislip areas as well as the "pseudo-teak".

We have asked Amel but their friendly response was "we do not
recommend to paint the deck" (Joel, what is your opinion on this ?)

Who of you have done so, what paint (or material) have you used,

and

what are your experiences ?

Presently I am planning to use International's Interdeck antislip
paint. Does anybody have experience with that product ? What else
would you recommend ?

Your support and useful comments will be HIGHLY appreciated.

Regards,
Jochen Hofmann
Maramu # 143 "Blue Song"

Hi Jochen and all Amel owners,

About "pseudo teak" Amel's deck

I didn't do by myself, but I saw last year in Bahamas and Fort
Lauderdale, two examples of refitted Super Maramu deck.

Both adopted same system to repaint dark lines (pseudo joint). They used
a little hand paint striper : MASTER STRIPER by Embee Corporation, ref
N° 1100 (EMBEE CORPORATION, PO Box 1268 - Springfield, OH 45501-0126
Phone: 800-278-9745 Fax: 937-323-0733, presently no web page available).
There are several widths of wheel-strip in the kit. One is convenient
for this work.

We bought this tool by PEARL shop at Fort Lauderdale (US dealers network
: http://www.pearlpaint.com ) . Buy 2 of 3 of these cheap tools.

You have to roll this tool slowly and with caution to make a proper
strip. Happily, dark lines are in troughs on deck. This makes rolling
easier. Clean as soon as possible smudges with rag and solvent.

A Super Maramu deck is a 2 weeks work, but working only AM. It's too
hard to do that all day long (sun and knees …).

One of these Super Maramu was refitted with black lines. This not very
happy. Contrast is too hard. The other one was treated with a paint very
close to the original, and result is very good.

This is an epoxy 2 components paint : SHERWIN- WILLIAM Company, colour
SABLE ref SW6083 (+ - 110$ gal) http://www.sherwin-williams.com

After almost 4 years under the sun, dark lines of our deck are beginning
to disappear (except cockpit wich is permanently covered by sprayhood +
extension sun awning). This phenomena is not regular. Some areas are
more affected than others. We probably have to consider a deck refit in
2 or 3 years. Better late than ...now

Best regards.

Patrick Naegels
Caramel SM329

Hello to all fellow Amel owners.

I would like to address an issue many of the ones of you owning
older Amel yachts will probably face as well.

One day the time comes when you have to revitalize your boat's deck,
i.e. repaint the white antislip areas as well as the "pseudo-teak".

We have asked Amel but their friendly response was "we do not
recommend to paint the deck" (Joel, what is your opinion on this ?)

Who of you have done so, what paint (or material) have you used, and
what are your experiences ?

Presently I am planning to use International's Interdeck antislip
paint. Does anybody have experience with that product ? What else
would you recommend ?

Your support and useful comments will be HIGHLY appreciated.

Regards,
Jochen Hofmann
Maramu # 143 "Blue Song"

Richard,

I am just back from holidays and I thank you very much for your kindness. I will get this file asap.

Thank you again
christian

Hi Mike and Richard,

Amel replaced last summer this rubber gasket. I didn't do that by
myself, so I cannot explain how to do, but I understood that this gasket
comes from car industry. But you can order this gasket by Amel as spare
part and ask them how to change.

I destroyed this gasket when repainting companionway hatch with teak
oil. Gasket lip glued on wood and rubbed on. Each time we handled hatch,
gasket reversed until broken.

With new gasket, I take lot of care and before painting, I protect it
with masking tape and wait several hours before handling hatch, to let
oil dry.

Patrick (Caramel - SM329)

Hi

I have recently sold a Catalina 400 and am thinking of buying a
Santorin in the next few months. If anyone is anticipating selling
in that time it would be great to hear from you. I am also
interested in hearing from anyone who is my height (195cm) and
whether the santorin is OK for height internally etc.

Thanks

Nigel Tanner

I've used teak oil and it works just fine....any reputable brand.

Cheers,

Rossi, Hanalei

We ordered the gasket material from Amel directly. Wasn't too
unreasonble in cost. I am not sure how the SM companion door removes
but on the Sharki it was easy to remove and varnish. I used Interlux
Goldspar Clear for the exterior and Goldspar Satin for the interior.
I put 10 coats of clear on the exterior and 8 coats of clear on the
interior then finished with 2 coats of satin for the interior. Took
great pain to make it look like the interior finish. It's held up
wonderfully ... been on for 3 years.

Delores
s/v Stargazer



--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "closereach"
<closereach@y...> wrote:

Mike,
Thanks. And I too would be interested in learning how to replace

the

rubber gasket.
Richard

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Michael Glass <mglass@r...>
wrote:

I have used Sikens (may be improper spelling) to protect the

hatch

with good effect. It goes on easy and 2 coats last a season. Has
anyone had to replace the rubber gasket at the bottom of the
companionway hatch, and if so, what have you used? (I think there
was some discussion of the gasket in the group a year or two ago.)

Mike Glass
Second Call

-----Original Message-----
From: closereach [mailto:closereach@y...]
Sent: Monday, August 16, 2004 3:04 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Companionway hatch maintenance


Hello fellow Amel owners,
The most significant exposed woodwork on our Amels is the sliding
companionway hatch, and whatever finish or protectant that was
applied has clearly worn off. What have other owners done to

protect

this woodwork? Has anyone removed this hatch, and, say, replaced
with King Starboard?
Thanks
Richard Tate
SM #5 Spice



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I have posted a great biography on Henri Amel that appeared in 1987
in Nautical Quarterly. Look for it (scanned jpeg images of each
page) in the FILES section.
Richard

Christian,

I have posted in the FILES section a zipped file containing the
general arrangement plans you are seeking.

Richard

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "christian_manivel"
<cmanivel@c...> wrote:

Hello,

I plan to buy a Santorin ketch in the near future and would try to
get the drawings of it and general arrangement plans if available.
Do you know if and where I could find them ?

Thank you very much for your help

christian

Mike,
Thanks. And I too would be interested in learning how to replace the
rubber gasket.
Richard

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Michael Glass <mglass@r...>
wrote:

I have used Sikens (may be improper spelling) to protect the hatch

with good effect. It goes on easy and 2 coats last a season. Has
anyone had to replace the rubber gasket at the bottom of the
companionway hatch, and if so, what have you used? (I think there
was some discussion of the gasket in the group a year or two ago.)

Mike Glass
Second Call

-----Original Message-----
From: closereach [mailto:closereach@y...]
Sent: Monday, August 16, 2004 3:04 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Companionway hatch maintenance


Hello fellow Amel owners,
The most significant exposed woodwork on our Amels is the sliding
companionway hatch, and whatever finish or protectant that was
applied has clearly worn off. What have other owners done to

protect

this woodwork? Has anyone removed this hatch, and, say, replaced
with King Starboard?
Thanks
Richard Tate
SM #5 Spice



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I have used Sikens (may be improper spelling) to protect the hatch with good effect. It goes on easy and 2 coats last a season. Has anyone had to replace the rubber gasket at the bottom of the companionway hatch, and if so, what have you used? (I think there was some discussion of the gasket in the group a year or two ago.)
Mike Glass
Second Call

Hello fellow Amel owners,
The most significant exposed woodwork on our Amels is the sliding
companionway hatch, and whatever finish or protectant that was
applied has clearly worn off. What have other owners done to protect
this woodwork? Has anyone removed this hatch, and, say, replaced
with King Starboard?
Thanks
Richard Tate
SM #5 Spice

Hello fellow Amel Owners

I am writing to offer my services to anyone needing delivery and/or boatsitting services for their Amel Super Maramu. I am a very experienced offshore sailor, including a circumnavigation and offshore racing on my previous boat; am an experienced delivery skipper; hold a USCG 50 ton license; and am also the proud owner of my own Super Maramu.

Home based in the US Chesapeake Bay area, I offer reasonable rates and can provide a resume and references on request. If needed for the job, I have an excellent first mate (he too is a lifelong sailboat owner and USCG licensed) and can easily get good additional crew.

Feel free to call me at 410-230-0504 (home) or 757-440-2424 (cell) or send email to "symoondog@hotmail.com.

Best regards

John Martin
SM 248 "Moon Dog"

_________________________________________________________________
On the road to retirement? Check out MSN Life Events for advice on how to get there! http://lifeevents.msn.com/category.aspx?cid=Retirement

Has anyone experienced mast pumping while at the dock? Our '83 Mango
single spreader rig has been experiencing mast pumping while at the
dock causing the entire boat to vibrate and rattle in the mast. The
rigger suggested that we first try to install a staysail wire from
just below the foredeck light at the spreaders to a pad eye just
forward of the windless.

Hope that someone has some information on this issue prior to us
taking action on the riggers suggestion.

s/v Infinite Spirit (Mango #31)

Thanks, John. That's good to hear.Ian Jenkins, SM302

From: Anne and John Hollamby <hollamby@compuserve.com>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
To: "INTERNET:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] VolvoTMD22
Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2004 12:25:10 -0400

Message text written by INTERNET:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com

<

The Volvo TMD 40 on my Oyster (born 1985) had about 14,000 hours on it when
I sold it. Over the 10 years that we had it, the only work done on the
engine was cleaning the injectors and servicing the injector pump once.
Needless to say the engine did not have a belt drive camshaft.

Regards, John Hollamby, Bali Hai, SM319




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Message text written by INTERNET:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com

<

The Volvo TMD 40 on my Oyster (born 1985) had about 14,000 hours on it when
I sold it. Over the 10 years that we had it, the only work done on the
engine was cleaning the injectors and servicing the injector pump once.
Needless to say the engine did not have a belt drive camshaft.

Regards, John Hollamby, Bali Hai, SM319

Joel,

That's amazing-thanks for the info.

Eric





_____

From: Joel F. Potter [mailto:jfpottercys@worldnet.att.net]
Sent: Friday, August 06, 2004 11:15 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Engine-Autoprop problem



Dear Dimitris:



What I am about to relate may seem hard to believe but it is absolutely
true. A few years ago I had symptoms exactly identical to yours. I had my
fuel tested, tested flow rates on my Racor filters and had the best diesel
man in town check my engine and fuel system. All was O.K. Believing that
any repair would be a dreadful ordeal, I called Jacques Carteau at Amel. I
enjoy a good relationship with Jacques and he gets great pleasure out of
teasing me. When he told me to clean my propeller I was sure he was joking.
He insisted and told me that the AUTOPROP is particularly sensitive to ANY
GROWTH, even a small amount. Feeling ridiculous and being certain I was the
victim of a joke, I dove on my boat and, believe it or not, there were
several small gooseneck barnacles, most of them on just one of the blades.
I cleaned them off and used sand paper to polish off their "footprint". The
engine problems disappeared immediately.



How can this be? To make a long story short, the AUTOPROP works as well as
it does and is extremely efficient due to the unusual shape of the propeller
blades. The blades, though not interconnected must work in complete
symmetry/unison. If any one blade is more fouled than another, that effects
it's "pitch" or angle of operation. The vortex of water coming off this
blade then causes the other blades to change pitch...it's complicated but I
hope you can understand the relationship.



I hope this will eliminate your problems. Remember, the prop must be
perfectly clean on all three blades. As a proof to this, last week I sold
an 8 month old SUPER MARAMU that sat at a dock here in Fort Lauderdale for
two months. When we pulled the boat out of the water, the propeller was
fouled, but pretty evenly on all three blades. The boat would only go 4
knots at 2000 max R.P.M. and there was a noticeable increase in vibration.
Once clean, all was normal.



Let me know how you solve your problem, please.



Good luck!



Joel F. Potter

SUPER MARAMU #400 "MARY BROWN"















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Hi Amel owners,

I confirm what said Joel. The Autoprop is very sensitive to any foul,
due to its independent blade spin. On Caramel, we clean each blade every
month with a simple scraper, and eventually with fine sandpaper.

Easy to do underwater, but with diving tanks or respirator-compressor.
Really hard to do properly if snorkeling.

Patrick Naegels - Caramel (SM329)