I am not sure of your transmission type but the guys at Foley engines
will be able to help you.

http://www.foleyengines.com/home.html
Foley Marine & Industrial Engines, Inc.
200 Summer Street
Worcester, MA 01604
www.FoleyEngines.com Phone:

Fax:
Email:
1-800-23-FOLEY (U.S.)
+1 508 753 2979
+1 508 799 2276
info@foleyengines.com


Ask Dr Diesel.

Good luck
Rick


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, silkair@a... wrote:

I am trying to identify the Hurth Transmission in our 1983 Mango

and need

some help. The data tag is damaged. The only manual we have is in

French and

is for a HBW5,10, or 20 The manual drawings do not seem to match up

with what

we have mated to our Perkins 4-236. Our transmission has the

shifting arm on

the top, not the side as shown in drawings. Our buyers survey

refers to it as

a Hurth 4 transmission. The transmissiion shifts fine but makes a
fair"clunk" while doing so. Is this normal for these small and

simple transmissions?

Any help would be appreciated.
SV Eshamy Michael P. McCarthy

David,
In addition to the information I gave you about winterizing your watermaker, I forgot to mention that if you lay your Amel up in extreame cold, you may also want to winterize all of your salt water intakes. This is easily done by getting a couple of gallons of anti-freeze ( the enviomental type). Turn off your salt water intake, and take off the top of the filter. I call this the sea chest. Start your engine, and when all the water is gone, pour in the anti-freeze. When you see the anti-freeze coming out of the exaust, shut off the engine. Do the same thing for the generator. With the sea chest full of anti-freeze turn on each toilet until the anti-freeze goes in the toilet and out the discharge. If your anchor wash is connected to the same sea chest, run that also. Make sure the anti-freeze is not only enviomental friendly but non corrosive for aluminum, and rubber, i.e. your impeller and toilet parts. If you run your charger all the time, it generates enough heat to keep the engine room a little warm, but I allways turn off my charger and main battery bank when I leave the boat for any time. The bildge pump is wired direct to the batteries, so cutting off the main switch doesn't effect it, and if you do a proper job storing your Amel you won't need a bildge pump anyhow. If you leave the switch on, then the computers,clocks, etc. will eventully run the batteries down. This also can tell you if your batteries are going bad. I can leave my boat for months with no charger on and when I get back the batteries are still at 100% . If I come back and they're at 90% they're gone. Regards John
'Moondog" SM 248

From: "john martin" <symoondog@hotmail.com>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: "Monndog" sm248

From: "davidcrisp" <david@familycrisp.com>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Water maker lay-up
Date: Wed, 01 Sep 2004 10:17:09 -0000

Now we are back in the UK where fresh water is free and readily
available I want to put our water maker to bed - for the winter and
long term.
The instructions I have are very unclear. Can someone advise me on
what the best method is for 'laying-up' the water maker? Presumably
it will need sterilzing and protection against freezing? Our is the
24V 50l/hr model.
Thanks,
David

_________________________________________________________________
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Hello Amel owners,

I have the pleasure to introduce the brand new French speaking Amel
Sailboats Forum on http://www.forum-voiliers-amel.net

In the same spirit as this forum, forum-voiliers-amel's aim is to
share owners experiences, good tips, and offer free space to present
used Amel sailboats for sale (for owner only).

Every body is welcome, but of course in French …

Do not hesitate to contact me, we certainly have synergy to find.

All the best

Patrick
patrick@forum-voiliers-amel.net

David,
Its a very simple process to pickle your water maker. The object is to circulate a solution through your system to eliminate the possibility of bacteria while you are not using the unit. To do this you mix a 1/4 cup ( 2 ozs.) of sodium bisulphate in a bucket of pure water (2 1/2 gallons). If you need to protect from freezing, add 2 litres of glycerine. Then you flush your system with fresh water the usual way for about 5 minutes. Cut off the main salt water intake. Disconect the intake hose of the water maker at the filter on the water maker maker side. Put this hose in the bucket. Take off the outlet hose (discharge) and put it into the bucket. Turn on the water maker at the panel. ( switch only) The unit will now suck the solution out of the bucket through the system and back into the bucket. Do this for 10 minutes reconnect the hoses and you are done. To turn the unit back on in the future, simply flush with fresh water for about 10 minutes and you are ready to go. Now to explain the hard part. You will notice that the intake hose is not long enough to reach into the bucket. add a 3 or 4 ft. piece of hose, put them together with a hose barb. You'll have trouble finding the outlet hose. Its on the port side up high and discharges overboard probally with your bildge pump hose.It comes off of the control unit in the galley, so it will be coming down from above. This hose also won't reach the bucket. I just hang the bucket up with a piece of rope, or you can add a piece of hose. Hope this helps you out. The entire process should take about 1 hour once you get everything sorted out. John Martin
"Monndog" sm248

From: "davidcrisp" <david@familycrisp.com>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Water maker lay-up
Date: Wed, 01 Sep 2004 10:17:09 -0000

Now we are back in the UK where fresh water is free and readily
available I want to put our water maker to bed - for the winter and
long term.
The instructions I have are very unclear. Can someone advise me on
what the best method is for 'laying-up' the water maker? Presumably
it will need sterilzing and protection against freezing? Our is the
24V 50l/hr model.
Thanks,
David

_________________________________________________________________
Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's FREE! http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/

I am trying to identify the Hurth Transmission in our 1983 Mango and need
some help. The data tag is damaged. The only manual we have is in French and
is for a HBW5,10, or 20 The manual drawings do not seem to match up with what
we have mated to our Perkins 4-236. Our transmission has the shifting arm on
the top, not the side as shown in drawings. Our buyers survey refers to it as
a Hurth 4 transmission. The transmissiion shifts fine but makes a
fair"clunk" while doing so. Is this normal for these small and simple transmissions?
Any help would be appreciated.
SV Eshamy Michael P. McCarthy

We are considering selling our SM 2000 "Drifter",
built in 1999 (hull #240).
We have not yet officially listed the boat, nor
advertized it in any publications.
However, if anyone with an older Amel is considering a
SM or, if you know of anyone else interested in a SM
2000, please write to:
drifter01us@yahoo.com
"Drifter" is a standard SM of that vintage. It has
wood floors. It also has a "radar-arch" type dinghy
davit system, custom cockpit cushions, a KISS wind
generator, and a Carbe 10'6" RIB with virtually new 15
h.p. Yamaha.
Many thanks,
Randy Kilmon

Now we are back in the UK where fresh water is free and readily
available I want to put our water maker to bed - for the winter and
long term.
The instructions I have are very unclear. Can someone advise me on
what the best method is for 'laying-up' the water maker? Presumably
it will need sterilzing and protection against freezing? Our is the
24V 50l/hr model.
Thanks,
David

Well our two years off are up and the bank manager beckons so we
must return to work. We have had a fantastic time aboard Gallant,
our 1995 Super Maramu, and I share the common sentiment of all Amel
owners - what a boat, as near a perfect design as a sailing boat can
be.
Gallant is up for sale. She's in England, ready to go across more
oceans. Visit our website for details www.familycrisp.com

Best wishes to all, we'll be back out there again in 5-10 years time.
David

Paddy, Three years ago I had to replace the companionway seal
because of teak oil (the wood is now varnished!). I ordered two
seals (still have one) from Amel. I received instructions with
them, and the replacement was quite simple and successful. The seal
is made by Renault.
Bill on Lady Sadie SM# 269





--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Patrick Naegels"
<naegels@t...> wrote:

Hi Mike and Richard,

Amel replaced last summer this rubber gasket. I didn't do that by
myself, so I cannot explain how to do, but I understood that this

gasket

comes from car industry. But you can order this gasket by Amel as

spare

part and ask them how to change.

I destroyed this gasket when repainting companionway hatch with

teak

oil. Gasket lip glued on wood and rubbed on. Each time we handled

hatch,

gasket reversed until broken.

With new gasket, I take lot of care and before painting, I protect

it

with masking tape and wait several hours before handling hatch, to

let

oil dry.

Patrick (Caramel - SM329)

-----Message d'origine-----
De : closereach [mailto:closereach@y...]
Envoyé : mardi 17 août 2004 2:20
À : amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Companionway hatch maintenance


Mike,
Thanks. And I too would be interested in learning how to replace

the

rubber gasket.
Richard

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Michael Glass

<mglass@r...>

wrote:

I have used Sikens (may be improper spelling) to protect the

hatch

with good effect. It goes on easy and 2 coats last a season. Has
anyone had to replace the rubber gasket at the bottom of the
companionway hatch, and if so, what have you used? (I think there
was some discussion of the gasket in the group a year or two ago.)

Mike Glass
Second Call

-----Original Message-----
From: closereach [mailto:closereach@y...]
Sent: Monday, August 16, 2004 3:04 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Companionway hatch maintenance


Hello fellow Amel owners,
The most significant exposed woodwork on our Amels is the

sliding

companionway hatch, and whatever finish or protectant that was
applied has clearly worn off. What have other owners done to

protect

this woodwork? Has anyone removed this hatch, and, say, replaced
with King Starboard?
Thanks
Richard Tate
SM #5 Spice



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Thank you very much Bob and Patrick for your helpful remarks. When we
finally get to the stripes we will sure go by them (including the college
kid or equivalent) but at the moment we are still at the teak (colour) and
white non skid areas where the gelcoat is at (or very near) the end of its
useful life.



Does anybody have experience ? What paint did you use ? I still have
"Interdeck" by International in my plan but I am somewhat afraid of taking
things from bad to worse .



Fair winds to all of you - it's good to have a great community having great
boats.



Jochen





_____

Von: rossirossix4 [mailto:equinoxsolstice@hotmail.com]
Gesendet: Sonntag, 22. August 2004 14:30
An: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Betreff: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Help !!! Maramu Deck Repainting ?



I agree with Patrick, IF you are just wanting to darken the lines,
the little paint striping tool is the best. We just finished all
the lines on Hanalei--bought the striping tool at JC Whitney and it
is available online--
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/ProductDisplay/s-10101/storeId-
10101/p-3196/c-10101/catalogId-10101 Make sure you buy the kit 2-
stripe kit (ZX155343B). You can combine the assortment of small
brass wheels to be exactly the width of your deck lines. The kit
also comes with an extra bottle, which is handy. I used Pettit
Easypoxy 1-part Polyurethane paint (Bittersweet brown) which is
available at West Marine and elsewhere and was happy with it. Use a
squeeze bottle, like a dish detergent bottle to refill it. I used
the helpful advice from Ann and Ralph on SM#160 Harmonie posted on
September 6, 2003. Preparation of the grooves by sanding, etc.
according to the instructions on the paint is important. In
addition to the "2 stripe tool", I would add one ingredient to their
instructions--a money hungry college kid who will work for $9/hour.
Total labor cost was $440 (I supplied the knee pads).

Bob, Hanalei

<jochen@j...> wrote:

Hello to all fellow Amel owners.

I would like to address an issue many of the ones of you owning
older Amel yachts will probably face as well.

One day the time comes when you have to revitalize your boat's

deck,

i.e. repaint the white antislip areas as well as the "pseudo-teak".

We have asked Amel but their friendly response was "we do not
recommend to paint the deck" (Joel, what is your opinion on this ?)

Who of you have done so, what paint (or material) have you used,

and

what are your experiences ?

Presently I am planning to use International's Interdeck antislip
paint. Does anybody have experience with that product ? What else
would you recommend ?

Your support and useful comments will be HIGHLY appreciated.

Regards,
Jochen Hofmann
Maramu # 143 "Blue Song"

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Dear John,

Regarding the problem I had I am pretty sure that there is a propeller
problem. I have to dive under the boat in clear water to polish the
propeller. I will inform everybody if something changes after that.

I have exactly the same problem with the aft head. I will check according to
your instruction.

Alma Libre SM 2000

_____

From: Anne and John Hollamby [mailto:hollamby@compuserve.com]
Sent: Monday, August 23, 2004 1:57 PM
To: INTERNET:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Engine-Autoprop problem


Message text written by INTERNET:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com

<

I am hoping that Dimitris will tell us whether and how he has solved the
engine problem, it certainly sent me under the boat to polish the prop to
gleaming bright with 100 wet and dry sandpaper.
On a minor note the macerator pump on our aft head started leaking after
about two and a half years liveaboard use. I replaced the seal with Jabsco
part no 90197-0000.
Doing this I found that the pumps in both heads had been wrongly assembled
and thus likely to damage the motors when the seals start leaking. The
motor is black and bolted on to it is the pump assembly which can be fitted
in two ways. The correct way will place the weep holes at the bottom and
the top of the motor and the incorrect way will place them horizontally as
my ones were. This means that when the seal goes the back end of the pump
casig will fill to half way before the leaky "water" can escape thus
immersing the front bearing. It is not difficult to remove the whole
assembly and correct the fault before any damage is done.

Best wishes from the new headmaster, John on Bali Hai
SM 319


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Message text written by INTERNET:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com

<

I am hoping that Dimitris will tell us whether and how he has solved the
engine problem, it certainly sent me under the boat to polish the prop to
gleaming bright with 100 wet and dry sandpaper.
On a minor note the macerator pump on our aft head started leaking after
about two and a half years liveaboard use. I replaced the seal with Jabsco
part no 90197-0000.
Doing this I found that the pumps in both heads had been wrongly assembled
and thus likely to damage the motors when the seals start leaking. The
motor is black and bolted on to it is the pump assembly which can be fitted
in two ways. The correct way will place the weep holes at the bottom and
the top of the motor and the incorrect way will place them horizontally as
my ones were. This means that when the seal goes the back end of the pump
casig will fill to half way before the leaky "water" can escape thus
immersing the front bearing. It is not difficult to remove the whole
assembly and correct the fault before any damage is done.

Best wishes from the new headmaster, John on Bali Hai
SM 319

I agree with Patrick, IF you are just wanting to darken the lines,
the little paint striping tool is the best. We just finished all
the lines on Hanalei--bought the striping tool at JC Whitney and it
is available online--
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/ProductDisplay/s-10101/storeId-
10101/p-3196/c-10101/catalogId-10101 Make sure you buy the kit 2-
stripe kit (ZX155343B). You can combine the assortment of small
brass wheels to be exactly the width of your deck lines. The kit
also comes with an extra bottle, which is handy. I used Pettit
Easypoxy 1-part Polyurethane paint (Bittersweet brown) which is
available at West Marine and elsewhere and was happy with it. Use a
squeeze bottle, like a dish detergent bottle to refill it. I used
the helpful advice from Ann and Ralph on SM#160 Harmonie posted on
September 6, 2003. Preparation of the grooves by sanding, etc.
according to the instructions on the paint is important. In
addition to the "2 stripe tool", I would add one ingredient to their
instructions--a money hungry college kid who will work for $9/hour.
Total labor cost was $440 (I supplied the knee pads).

Bob, Hanalei

<jochen@j...> wrote:

Hello to all fellow Amel owners.

I would like to address an issue many of the ones of you owning
older Amel yachts will probably face as well.

One day the time comes when you have to revitalize your boat's

deck,

i.e. repaint the white antislip areas as well as the "pseudo-teak".

We have asked Amel but their friendly response was "we do not
recommend to paint the deck" (Joel, what is your opinion on this ?)

Who of you have done so, what paint (or material) have you used,

and

what are your experiences ?

Presently I am planning to use International's Interdeck antislip
paint. Does anybody have experience with that product ? What else
would you recommend ?

Your support and useful comments will be HIGHLY appreciated.

Regards,
Jochen Hofmann
Maramu # 143 "Blue Song"

Hi Jochen and all Amel owners,

About "pseudo teak" Amel's deck

I didn't do by myself, but I saw last year in Bahamas and Fort
Lauderdale, two examples of refitted Super Maramu deck.

Both adopted same system to repaint dark lines (pseudo joint). They used
a little hand paint striper : MASTER STRIPER by Embee Corporation, ref
N° 1100 (EMBEE CORPORATION, PO Box 1268 - Springfield, OH 45501-0126
Phone: 800-278-9745 Fax: 937-323-0733, presently no web page available).
There are several widths of wheel-strip in the kit. One is convenient
for this work.

We bought this tool by PEARL shop at Fort Lauderdale (US dealers network
: http://www.pearlpaint.com ) . Buy 2 of 3 of these cheap tools.

You have to roll this tool slowly and with caution to make a proper
strip. Happily, dark lines are in troughs on deck. This makes rolling
easier. Clean as soon as possible smudges with rag and solvent.

A Super Maramu deck is a 2 weeks work, but working only AM. It's too
hard to do that all day long (sun and knees …).

One of these Super Maramu was refitted with black lines. This not very
happy. Contrast is too hard. The other one was treated with a paint very
close to the original, and result is very good.

This is an epoxy 2 components paint : SHERWIN- WILLIAM Company, colour
SABLE ref SW6083 (+ - 110$ gal) http://www.sherwin-williams.com

After almost 4 years under the sun, dark lines of our deck are beginning
to disappear (except cockpit wich is permanently covered by sprayhood +
extension sun awning). This phenomena is not regular. Some areas are
more affected than others. We probably have to consider a deck refit in
2 or 3 years. Better late than ...now

Best regards.

Patrick Naegels
Caramel SM329

Hello to all fellow Amel owners.

I would like to address an issue many of the ones of you owning
older Amel yachts will probably face as well.

One day the time comes when you have to revitalize your boat's deck,
i.e. repaint the white antislip areas as well as the "pseudo-teak".

We have asked Amel but their friendly response was "we do not
recommend to paint the deck" (Joel, what is your opinion on this ?)

Who of you have done so, what paint (or material) have you used, and
what are your experiences ?

Presently I am planning to use International's Interdeck antislip
paint. Does anybody have experience with that product ? What else
would you recommend ?

Your support and useful comments will be HIGHLY appreciated.

Regards,
Jochen Hofmann
Maramu # 143 "Blue Song"

Richard,

I am just back from holidays and I thank you very much for your kindness. I will get this file asap.

Thank you again
christian

Hi Mike and Richard,

Amel replaced last summer this rubber gasket. I didn't do that by
myself, so I cannot explain how to do, but I understood that this gasket
comes from car industry. But you can order this gasket by Amel as spare
part and ask them how to change.

I destroyed this gasket when repainting companionway hatch with teak
oil. Gasket lip glued on wood and rubbed on. Each time we handled hatch,
gasket reversed until broken.

With new gasket, I take lot of care and before painting, I protect it
with masking tape and wait several hours before handling hatch, to let
oil dry.

Patrick (Caramel - SM329)

Hi

I have recently sold a Catalina 400 and am thinking of buying a
Santorin in the next few months. If anyone is anticipating selling
in that time it would be great to hear from you. I am also
interested in hearing from anyone who is my height (195cm) and
whether the santorin is OK for height internally etc.

Thanks

Nigel Tanner

I've used teak oil and it works just fine....any reputable brand.

Cheers,

Rossi, Hanalei

We ordered the gasket material from Amel directly. Wasn't too
unreasonble in cost. I am not sure how the SM companion door removes
but on the Sharki it was easy to remove and varnish. I used Interlux
Goldspar Clear for the exterior and Goldspar Satin for the interior.
I put 10 coats of clear on the exterior and 8 coats of clear on the
interior then finished with 2 coats of satin for the interior. Took
great pain to make it look like the interior finish. It's held up
wonderfully ... been on for 3 years.

Delores
s/v Stargazer



--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "closereach"
<closereach@y...> wrote:

Mike,
Thanks. And I too would be interested in learning how to replace

the

rubber gasket.
Richard

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Michael Glass <mglass@r...>
wrote:

I have used Sikens (may be improper spelling) to protect the

hatch

with good effect. It goes on easy and 2 coats last a season. Has
anyone had to replace the rubber gasket at the bottom of the
companionway hatch, and if so, what have you used? (I think there
was some discussion of the gasket in the group a year or two ago.)

Mike Glass
Second Call

-----Original Message-----
From: closereach [mailto:closereach@y...]
Sent: Monday, August 16, 2004 3:04 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Companionway hatch maintenance


Hello fellow Amel owners,
The most significant exposed woodwork on our Amels is the sliding
companionway hatch, and whatever finish or protectant that was
applied has clearly worn off. What have other owners done to

protect

this woodwork? Has anyone removed this hatch, and, say, replaced
with King Starboard?
Thanks
Richard Tate
SM #5 Spice



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