Date   

Re: Strange problem with ONAN

Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
 

All concerned,

Alessandro emailed me directly and stated that he was getting a 33 code. He says that 33 is not in his owner's manual. I do not remember what codes are on the switch and in the manual. Since I am off the boat, I looked it up on-line and found 33 is an Onan overheat code. I emailed him and advised him to try cleaning his exchanger.

Best,

Bill
BeBe

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "seafeverofcuan" <seafeverofcuan@...> wrote:

Alessandro,
if it is an overheating problem the yellow light at the start and stop switch either in the galley or on the generator should flash one single continual signal flash which means overheating. This will only happen after the generator has been running and overheated and stopped. If you touch the switch at all after that it will clear the signal.
If you have checked in the seawater side of the heat exchanger, meaning take off the round end cap on the port side and not found any missing rubber pieces then take off the sea water pump, it is only two bolts and easy to remove. Be sure and close the grey seawater strainer on the starboard side where the red handle is first.
Look inside the outflow pipe of the pump and make sure that there are no rubber pieces stuck in there.
The slightest little water or electrical hiccup will stop the generator. Be sure to reopen the sea water strainer after you put the pump back on and start the generator.
I have never got more than 120 hours from a genuine Onan impeller they need to be inspected and changed often.
Good luck.

Trevor Lusty
Sea Fever of Cuan
Super Maramu
Nicaragua

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "alexgennai" <agennai@> wrote:

My boat is a SUPERMARAMU 2k #443 lunched 2004
I just crossed atlantic and during passage Onan worked perfectly for 6h/day for 15days but the 16th day began to "cough" and stopped: I check Racor were ok, I changed fuel filter, But I found impeller broker and so I changed it!
BUT, anyway, after that my ONAN works well for just 20 minutes than starts "coughing" and stops! Now I''m in St lucia and here mechanic can't solve the problem so I'm here asking your help if someone could give us an idea....I'd appreciate all suggestions!!!!

Saluti
Alessandro
GRAND CRU
Supermaramu 2k #443
Rodney bay - st lucia


Re: Strange problem with ONAN

seafeverofcuan <seafeverofcuan@...>
 

Alessandro,
if it is an overheating problem the yellow light at the start and stop switch either in the galley or on the generator should flash one single continual signal flash which means overheating. This will only happen after the generator has been running and overheated and stopped. If you touch the switch at all after that it will clear the signal.
If you have checked in the seawater side of the heat exchanger, meaning take off the round end cap on the port side and not found any missing rubber pieces then take off the sea water pump, it is only two bolts and easy to remove. Be sure and close the grey seawater strainer on the starboard side where the red handle is first.
Look inside the outflow pipe of the pump and make sure that there are no rubber pieces stuck in there.
The slightest little water or electrical hiccup will stop the generator. Be sure to reopen the sea water strainer after you put the pump back on and start the generator.
I have never got more than 120 hours from a genuine Onan impeller they need to be inspected and changed often.
Good luck.

Trevor Lusty
Sea Fever of Cuan
Super Maramu
Nicaragua

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "alexgennai" <agennai@...> wrote:

My boat is a SUPERMARAMU 2k #443 lunched 2004
I just crossed atlantic and during passage Onan worked perfectly for 6h/day for 15days but the 16th day began to "cough" and stopped: I check Racor were ok, I changed fuel filter, But I found impeller broker and so I changed it!
BUT, anyway, after that my ONAN works well for just 20 minutes than starts "coughing" and stops! Now I''m in St lucia and here mechanic can't solve the problem so I'm here asking your help if someone could give us an idea....I'd appreciate all suggestions!!!!

Saluti
Alessandro
GRAND CRU
Supermaramu 2k #443
Rodney bay - st lucia


Re: [Amel] Main sail for sale

Dennis woods
 

Hi Fred, I am currently looking to change my mainsail on my Supermaramu
2000 No 408, so should fit. My boat is in Spain so the obvious questions
are what price are you looking for it and what would be the frieght costs.
You can contact me direct with the full specifications on
dennis.woods3@icloud.com or woods.dennis@gmail.com
I look forward to hearing from you.
Happy Sails
Dennis.
IL FLAUTO MAGICO sm2k 408

On Friday, December 21, 2012, Frederic Houdaille wrote:

**


Hi there,
I am selling our SM's main sail as we are upgrading to a high performance
sailcloth in preparation for our long upcoming sabbatical. Our existing
main was made by North Sail in January of 2012 at the request of the former
owner of our boat (I purchased this boat in May of 2012). It has very
limited mileage so it is in great condition, just not quite what I want to
sail around the world with.
Let me know if you are interested.
Cheers,
Fred
"Zazen" #404, in Bear, DE





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Strange problem with ONAN

Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

Hi Joel has it right you need to find the broker bits and get
Them out of the cooling system.

Regards

Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

On Dec 20, 2012, at 9:08, "Joel F Potter" <jfpottercys@att.net> wrote:

After checking the error code displayed by the number of flashes on the
generator starting switch, you might also check to see if you got all the
broken parts of the impellor out of the salt water side of the cooling
system. They usually, if you are lucky, accumulate on the face of the heat
exchanger. If not, you must go through the system and get all the pieces as
they will impede water flow and cause enough of a slight overheat/reduced
water flow condition to shut the unit down after about a half hour. It is
important when removing the impellor to count the blades THAT ARE MISSING
and be sure to find all of them. If not, then get a experienced ONAN
mechanic as I have found the subtleties of the ONAN often get by someone not
trained on them. Good luck and Happy Christmas.

All the best,

Joel F. Potter

Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC

Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas

Mailing Address: 401 East Las Olas Boulevard #130-126

Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301

Phone: (954) 462-5869 Cell: (954) 812-2485

Email: jfpottercys@att.net

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of alexgennai
Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2012 6:38 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Strange problem with ONAN

My boat is a SUPERMARAMU 2k #443 lunched 2004
I just crossed atlantic and during passage Onan worked perfectly for 6h/day
for 15days but the 16th day began to "cough" and stopped: I check Racor were
ok, I changed fuel filter, But I found impeller broker and so I changed it!
BUT, anyway, after that my ONAN works well for just 20 minutes than starts
"coughing" and stops! Now I''m in St lucia and here mechanic can't solve the
problem so I'm here asking your help if someone could give us an idea....I'd
appreciate all suggestions!!!!

Saluti
Alessandro
GRAND CRU
Supermaramu 2k #443
Rodney bay - st lucia

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Strange problem with ONAN

Giovanni TESTA
 

Alessandro,
quando hai controllato il Racor sembrava ok, ma l'hai anche sostituto ?
E' meglio farlo ogni 50/70 ore. Lo Yanmar ha una pompa forte, mentre quella dell'Onan è più debole.
Se hai dubbi fai partire l'Onan è controlla la lancetta del manometro. Se vibra vuol dire che è il filtro Racor. Regge per un pò e poi si spegne.
Un'altra ragione di fermo inaspettato ,che a me è successo , può dipendere dall'interferenza con la radio HF in trasmissione. Il pulsante di STOP parte da solo, incredibile !
Ma dipende da come è installata la radio e comunque non mi sembra il caso tuo.
Fammi sapere se credi direttamente al mio indirizzo.
" I suggest to replace the racor filter if the gauge arrow begins to vibrate : the Onan starts but after a while stops."
Gianni
sv EUTIKIA
sm 428

----- Original Message -----
From: alexgennai
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2012 11:37 AM
Subject: [Amel] Strange problem with ONAN



My boat is a SUPERMARAMU 2k #443 lunched 2004
I just crossed atlantic and during passage Onan worked perfectly for 6h/day for 15days but the 16th day began to "cough" and stopped: I check Racor were ok, I changed fuel filter, But I found impeller broker and so I changed it!
BUT, anyway, after that my ONAN works well for just 20 minutes than starts "coughing" and stops! Now I''m in St lucia and here mechanic can't solve the problem so I'm here asking your help if someone could give us an idea....I'd appreciate all suggestions!!!!

Saluti
Alessandro
GRAND CRU
Supermaramu 2k #443
Rodney bay - st lucia





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


[Amel] Re: Strange problem with ONAN

Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Kent,

If that were the case, he would be getting the high temp code. I believe he said he is not getting any code.

Bill
BeBe

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Kent Robertson <karkauai@...> wrote:

Did you clean the heat exchanger of all broken impeller pieces? It could be overheating causing automatic shutdown.
Kent
SM243
Kristy

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 20, 2012, at 8:52 AM, "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@...> wrote:

Alessandro,

What error code are you getting? The error code is a series of blinking lights on the start switch.

From your description I would guess that the Onan is either starving for fuel, or there is a faulty 12VDC connection.

A few things to consider in order of priority:
If the electric fuel pump is failing, it could intermittently deliver insufficient pressure and starve the Onan of fuel. Be sure that the fuel pump is operating correctly before going to the next step. BTW, the electric fuel pump will eventually fail. If you do not have a spare, now is the time to buy one to determine if this is your problem. If you have a problem with a new one installed, proceed to the next step which will be much more difficult. If the new fuel pump works for you, buy a second one for a spare, if you plan to cross additional oceans.

The Onan will shut down if the 12VDC current is interrupted for even 1 second. This includes both the ground and positive wire. Generally the most suspect parts for intermittent 12VDC current faults are the positive and the negative solenoids.

Check out "Onan DC Control Schema" at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1489622282/pic/list?mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc

Hope this helps. Please let me know what you find.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "alexgennai" <agennai@> wrote:

My boat is a SUPERMARAMU 2k #443 lunched 2004
I just crossed atlantic and during passage Onan worked perfectly for 6h/day for 15days but the 16th day began to "cough" and stopped: I check Racor were ok, I changed fuel filter, But I found impeller broker and so I changed it!
BUT, anyway, after that my ONAN works well for just 20 minutes than starts "coughing" and stops! Now I''m in St lucia and here mechanic can't solve the problem so I'm here asking your help if someone could give us an idea....I'd appreciate all suggestions!!!!

Saluti
Alessandro
GRAND CRU
Supermaramu 2k #443
Rodney bay - st lucia



Main sail for sale

Frederic Houdaille <fhoudaille@...>
 

Hi there,
I am selling our SM's main sail as we are upgrading to a high performance sailcloth in preparation for our long upcoming sabbatical. Our existing main was made by North Sail in January of 2012 at the request of the former owner of our boat (I purchased this boat in May of 2012). It has very limited mileage so it is in great condition, just not quite what I want to sail around the world with.
Let me know if you are interested.
Cheers,
Fred
"Zazen" #404, in Bear, DE

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Re: Strange problem with ONAN

karkauai
 

Did you clean the heat exchanger of all broken impeller pieces? It could be overheating causing automatic shutdown.
Kent
SM243
Kristy

On Dec 20, 2012, at 8:52 AM, "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@svbebe.com> wrote:

Alessandro,

What error code are you getting? The error code is a series of blinking lights on the start switch.

From your description I would guess that the Onan is either starving for fuel, or there is a faulty 12VDC connection.

A few things to consider in order of priority:
If the electric fuel pump is failing, it could intermittently deliver insufficient pressure and starve the Onan of fuel. Be sure that the fuel pump is operating correctly before going to the next step. BTW, the electric fuel pump will eventually fail. If you do not have a spare, now is the time to buy one to determine if this is your problem. If you have a problem with a new one installed, proceed to the next step which will be much more difficult. If the new fuel pump works for you, buy a second one for a spare, if you plan to cross additional oceans.

The Onan will shut down if the 12VDC current is interrupted for even 1 second. This includes both the ground and positive wire. Generally the most suspect parts for intermittent 12VDC current faults are the positive and the negative solenoids.

Check out "Onan DC Control Schema" at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1489622282/pic/list?mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc

Hope this helps. Please let me know what you find.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "alexgennai" <agennai@...> wrote:

My boat is a SUPERMARAMU 2k #443 lunched 2004
I just crossed atlantic and during passage Onan worked perfectly for 6h/day for 15days but the 16th day began to "cough" and stopped: I check Racor were ok, I changed fuel filter, But I found impeller broker and so I changed it!
BUT, anyway, after that my ONAN works well for just 20 minutes than starts "coughing" and stops! Now I''m in St lucia and here mechanic can't solve the problem so I'm here asking your help if someone could give us an idea....I'd appreciate all suggestions!!!!

Saluti
Alessandro
GRAND CRU
Supermaramu 2k #443
Rodney bay - st lucia


Re: [Amel] Strange problem with ONAN

Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
 

One more thing I thought of for a shutdown without a code:

Try this:
Go to the fuel injection pump and you should see a little lever that gets pulled by a small solenoid. That solenoid may be going bad. See if the solenoid is pulling or dropping out when the engine starts, then shut down.

This solenoid has two coils. One is 12VDC for starting and the other is 4VDC which holds the solenoid after starting. The 4 volt coil may be going bad. When you hold the start button down, the alarms are bypassed and the 12VDC coil on the solenoid is energized. When you release the start button, the 4VDC coil on the solenoid is energized and keeps the solenoid closed.

Try holding the lever with your hand, or mechanically keeping it in a "run position" by tying or wiring it in position. If the Onan continues to run, you need to replace this solenoid. I believe that if this solenoid fails you will receive no code.

Additionally, regarding the impeller blades:
If you did not get a shutdown code, the impeller was probably not the source of your shutdown because if your shutdown was due to overheating or lack of water flow, you would see a flashing code.

The best way that I have found to simply remove all of the impeller blades from the Onan Heat Exchanger is to close the main sea chest valve and open the end caps on both ends of the Heat Exchanger...while using a wet/dry shop vacuum (shop-vac) to suck the excess water and the blade parts which will end up in the vacuum. If you turn on the shop-vac as you loosen the end caps, you will capture all of the water and have zero water clean-up.

This would also be a great time to change the zinc on the Heat Exchanger.

Unfortunately, if you do not have a wet/dry shop-vac, you will need to remove the Heat Exchanger to get all of the pieces out. Removing the Exchanger is problematic with all of its connections, so buy or borrow a shopvac. Also, the end caps and end cap gaskets are delicate and may get damaged in this process. It is a good idea to keep end cap spares on-board.

Hope this solves your problem...let me know.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Joel F Potter" <jfpottercys@...> wrote:

After checking the error code displayed by the number of flashes on the
generator starting switch, you might also check to see if you got all the
broken parts of the impellor out of the salt water side of the cooling
system. They usually, if you are lucky, accumulate on the face of the heat
exchanger. If not, you must go through the system and get all the pieces as
they will impede water flow and cause enough of a slight overheat/reduced
water flow condition to shut the unit down after about a half hour. It is
important when removing the impellor to count the blades THAT ARE MISSING
and be sure to find all of them. If not, then get a experienced ONAN
mechanic as I have found the subtleties of the ONAN often get by someone not
trained on them. Good luck and Happy Christmas.



All the best,

Joel F. Potter





Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC

Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas

Mailing Address: 401 East Las Olas Boulevard #130-126

Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301

Phone: (954) 462-5869 Cell: (954) 812-2485

Email: jfpottercys@...





From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of alexgennai
Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2012 6:38 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Strange problem with ONAN





My boat is a SUPERMARAMU 2k #443 lunched 2004
I just crossed atlantic and during passage Onan worked perfectly for 6h/day
for 15days but the 16th day began to "cough" and stopped: I check Racor were
ok, I changed fuel filter, But I found impeller broker and so I changed it!
BUT, anyway, after that my ONAN works well for just 20 minutes than starts
"coughing" and stops! Now I''m in St lucia and here mechanic can't solve the
problem so I'm here asking your help if someone could give us an idea....I'd
appreciate all suggestions!!!!

Saluti
Alessandro
GRAND CRU
Supermaramu 2k #443
Rodney bay - st lucia





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Strange problem with ONAN

amelforme
 

After checking the error code displayed by the number of flashes on the
generator starting switch, you might also check to see if you got all the
broken parts of the impellor out of the salt water side of the cooling
system. They usually, if you are lucky, accumulate on the face of the heat
exchanger. If not, you must go through the system and get all the pieces as
they will impede water flow and cause enough of a slight overheat/reduced
water flow condition to shut the unit down after about a half hour. It is
important when removing the impellor to count the blades THAT ARE MISSING
and be sure to find all of them. If not, then get a experienced ONAN
mechanic as I have found the subtleties of the ONAN often get by someone not
trained on them. Good luck and Happy Christmas.



All the best,

Joel F. Potter





Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC

Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas

Mailing Address: 401 East Las Olas Boulevard #130-126

Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301

Phone: (954) 462-5869 Cell: (954) 812-2485

Email: jfpottercys@att.net





From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of alexgennai
Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2012 6:38 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Strange problem with ONAN





My boat is a SUPERMARAMU 2k #443 lunched 2004
I just crossed atlantic and during passage Onan worked perfectly for 6h/day
for 15days but the 16th day began to "cough" and stopped: I check Racor were
ok, I changed fuel filter, But I found impeller broker and so I changed it!
BUT, anyway, after that my ONAN works well for just 20 minutes than starts
"coughing" and stops! Now I''m in St lucia and here mechanic can't solve the
problem so I'm here asking your help if someone could give us an idea....I'd
appreciate all suggestions!!!!

Saluti
Alessandro
GRAND CRU
Supermaramu 2k #443
Rodney bay - st lucia


Re: Strange problem with ONAN

Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Alessandro,

What error code are you getting? The error code is a series of blinking lights on the start switch.

From your description I would guess that the Onan is either starving for fuel, or there is a faulty 12VDC connection.

A few things to consider in order of priority:
If the electric fuel pump is failing, it could intermittently deliver insufficient pressure and starve the Onan of fuel. Be sure that the fuel pump is operating correctly before going to the next step. BTW, the electric fuel pump will eventually fail. If you do not have a spare, now is the time to buy one to determine if this is your problem. If you have a problem with a new one installed, proceed to the next step which will be much more difficult. If the new fuel pump works for you, buy a second one for a spare, if you plan to cross additional oceans.

The Onan will shut down if the 12VDC current is interrupted for even 1 second. This includes both the ground and positive wire. Generally the most suspect parts for intermittent 12VDC current faults are the positive and the negative solenoids.

Check out "Onan DC Control Schema" at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1489622282/pic/list?mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc

Hope this helps. Please let me know what you find.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "alexgennai" <agennai@...> wrote:

My boat is a SUPERMARAMU 2k #443 lunched 2004
I just crossed atlantic and during passage Onan worked perfectly for 6h/day for 15days but the 16th day began to "cough" and stopped: I check Racor were ok, I changed fuel filter, But I found impeller broker and so I changed it!
BUT, anyway, after that my ONAN works well for just 20 minutes than starts "coughing" and stops! Now I''m in St lucia and here mechanic can't solve the problem so I'm here asking your help if someone could give us an idea....I'd appreciate all suggestions!!!!

Saluti
Alessandro
GRAND CRU
Supermaramu 2k #443
Rodney bay - st lucia


Strange problem with ONAN

alexgennai <agennai@...>
 

My boat is a SUPERMARAMU 2k #443 lunched 2004
I just crossed atlantic and during passage Onan worked perfectly for 6h/day for 15days but the 16th day began to "cough" and stopped: I check Racor were ok, I changed fuel filter, But I found impeller broker and so I changed it!
BUT, anyway, after that my ONAN works well for just 20 minutes than starts "coughing" and stops! Now I''m in St lucia and here mechanic can't solve the problem so I'm here asking your help if someone could give us an idea....I'd appreciate all suggestions!!!!

Saluti
Alessandro
GRAND CRU
Supermaramu 2k #443
Rodney bay - st lucia


Re: USA Shore Power Wiring

Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Mark,

Check these photos out:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1949812811/pic/list

This should answer all of your questions.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Berthed in Turkey, Crew in Texas

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "captain_cucumber_head" wrote:

Merry Christmas fellow Amel owners!

I would be very grateful if someone could help me with this please. I recently had a small fire in my shore power plug and it melted most of the connections. Luckily, it was limited to just the plug and no other damage was incurred. I purchased a replacement plug (Marinco 50A 125/250v part number 6365CRN) and thought this would be an easy swap out. Ha!

In the shore power cord, I have 4 wires: Red, Black, White and BLUE. I can see from the old installation that white goes to white (W), red goes to red (X) and black goes to black (Y). My problem is the instructions call for a green wire to connect to green (G). I have a blue wire. Is this the same as the green wire?????

I should probably tell you I am in the USA at this point and need to configure to the marina 50a 220v service.

I can't be sure where the blue wire was connected, if it was connected at all, since most of the plug has melted on this side. I have four wires and four holes. Logic tells me to connect the blue to the green slot but I figured it doesn't hurt to ask. I really like our boat and would like not to blow it up this Christmas.

Thanks in advance for the help!

Mark
SM#275
Cream Puff


Re: USA Shore Power Wiring

Mark Erdos
 

Mystery solved! Apparently the teal wire is green. I connected the wire and turned off everything except the outlets and used a meter and the on board 8247 Multi-Meter Blue Sea System to determine all was wired correctly.
Nothing blew up and Cream Puff lived to see another day


Mark
SM#275
Cream Puff


Re: USA Shore Power Wiring

Mark Erdos
 

Upon closer inpection here, this wire is a teal color (neither green or blue)

Also, this may not be the orginal factory shore power cord as the previous owner had a Charles Marine Isolation Transformer installed.

Thoughts?

Mark
SM#275
Cream Puff


USA Shore Power Wiring

Mark Erdos
 

Merry Christmas fellow Amel owners!

I would be very grateful if someone could help me with this please. I recently had a small fire in my shore power plug and it melted most of the connections. Luckily, it was limited to just the plug and no other damage was incurred. I purchased a replacement plug (Marinco 50A 125/250v part number 6365CRN) and thought this would be an easy swap out. Ha!

In the shore power cord, I have 4 wires: Red, Black, White and BLUE. I can see from the old installation that white goes to white (W), red goes to red (X) and black goes to black (Y). My problem is the instructions call for a green wire to connect to green (G). I have a blue wire. Is this the same as the green wire?????

I should probably tell you I am in the USA at this point and need to configure to the marina 50a 220v service.

I can't be sure where the blue wire was connected, if it was connected at all, since most of the plug has melted on this side. I have four wires and four holes. Logic tells me to connect the blue to the green slot but I figured it doesn't hurt to ask. I really like our boat and would like not to blow it up this Christmas.

Thanks in advance for the help!

Mark
SM#275
Cream Puff


[Amel] Re: Small corked cavity on front of keel - is this for a forward facing sonar ?

svperegrinus <no_reply@...>
 

Hello Joel and Bill,

Thank you for your comments.

I was mistaken regarding the position of the sensors. I inverted the description of their positions in my previous message. The correct positions on #350:

The Airmar depthsounder is underneath the vestibule between the salon and forward cabin. It is probably an Airmar P17, possibly version Raymarine M78713 or M78718.

The Airmar ST600 paddlewheel and water temperature sensor is underneath the forward cabin.

Cheerio,


F + O
Peregrinus
#350 (Nov 2001)

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Joel F Potter" wrote:

Greetings Everybody.

Originally, all SM 53 had B&G sailing instrumentation. When Raymarine
started to offer an attractive alternative, they were offered as an option.
The B&G instruments offered a sonic speed "transducer" that is actually a
"speaker" facing aft towards the keel that sends ultrasonic sound to a
"listener" facing forward and up towards the speaker that catches these
sound waves and by employing the Doppler effect ( example: the sound of a
steady speed rail train changes as it approaches and then travels away ) to
measure the speed of the boat through the water. These sonic speed
components had to be installed and molded into the hull at the start of the
laminating process. As sometimes at this point it was not known if B&G or
Raymarine would eventually be installed and it would not be economically
feasible to install the B&G components later on, all the boats got the B&G
stuff even if they eventually were outfitted with Raymarine.



The B&G system works great.until it doesn't work. It is an extremely
expensive proposition to replace the sonic speed transducers on a boat that
is complete. Anything can be done with enough attitude and resources but
most of my clients use a paddlewheel replacement if the sonic speed fails.
Several other marine electronics companies offered a sonic speed style
replacement that was on a single vertical stick style plug transducer, but
the folks I know who tried one were very less than pleased with the results.



The small empty section at the top forward part of the keel is able to be
accessed in case of a severe grounding to see if water is present to
determine damage as this is a vulnerable interface position where the keel
joins the hull; lots of stress here in a hard grounding. It was not intended
to mount any type of transducer in this position.



The vertical tube with wires inside just in front of the top loading
freezer/fridge is where the wiring for the sonic speed listener come in to
the interior.



The only reason I know this arcane stuff is because Jacques Carteau was kind
enough to give me a comprehensive show and tell on all the evolutionary
changes on the boats every time I visited the shipyard so I would be better
prepared to make accurate sales presentations and later be better equipped
to give advice on eventual repairs to Amel's sometimes unconventional
approach to certain challenges. I used to look forward to my visits with him
very much as he is a really clever guy with a very dry sense of humor who
liked to fool around inside my head on occasion in order to get me to
understand the in-understandable. He is happily retired today.



All the best and Happy Christmas,



Joel



Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC

Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas

Mailing Address: 401 East Las Olas Boulevard #130-126

Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301

Phone: (954) 462-5869 Cell: (954) 812-2485

Email: jfpottercys@...





From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of svperegrinus
Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2012 9:50 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Re: Small corked cavity on front of keel - is this for a
forward facing sonar ?





Hello Bill and Judy,

Our boat has the same keel and hull fittings with rear-facing sensor in the
hull and forward-looking sensor in the keel as in your fine photos.
Nonetheless:

(1) We do not have B&G (Have Raytheon instead)

(2) I have not found any wiring leads to these two sensor positions

(3) There is an Airmar paddlewheel sensor. The paddlewheel is accessible
from the undersole of the vestibule between the salon and the forward cabin.

(4) There appears to be a blank plug to what might be the rear-facing
sensor, without wiring leads, in the aft undersole storage under the salon
table (i.e., just forward of the bench refrigerator/freezer)

So I am speculating the Amel SM2K molds around #350 and #387 have provision
for a B&G dual sensor/refracting sensor type but in some instances this went
unused.

Our manual cheerfully calls the rear facing and forward facing sensors such
as yours "K" and "L" thru-hull fittings for the sonic speed sensor!

Do you have a second speed sensor underneath the vestibule and a further
depth sensor underneath the sole of the forward cabin?

"Curious in Miami"

F + O
Peregrinus
#350 (Nov 2001)

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe"
wrote:

Colin,

Check out this photo:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1217837093/pic/24
2284717/view?picmode=
42284717/view?picmode=&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc
&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc

More photos at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1217837093/pic/li
st?mode=tn
ist?mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc &order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc

I think that what you are describing could be the keel sonic speed sensor.

There is an Amel Option for Sonar, but since I do not have that option, I
cannot comment.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Cyprus

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
, "islandpearl2_sm2k332"
wrote:

Dear Colleagues

On slipping Island Pearl II today following our 11,779 n.mile trip I was
very surprised to see what appeared to be a corked off cavity on the forward
facing leading edge of the keel about 800mm from the bottom of the keel.
Having not noticed this when purchasing, I am wondering if this is a
standard feature of these boats and what it is for? Basically it looks like
the perfect position for a forward facing sonar scanner but I was not aware
of this seemingly purpose made cavity before.

Is this a standard feature on the Super Maramu 2000, or an option, and
if so what is it for? Also, most importantly, how does one access this from
inside for the purpose of running wires from inside?

Best regards

Colin & Lauren Streeter
Island Pearl II - SM2k # 332
http://skipr.net/where-is/boat-pages/?boatid=799







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


[Amel] Re: Switching between Auto Pilot Drive Units

bent_jyllinge
 

Graham,

Yes that could be it. When the boats gets on the hard I will take it all apart and check it all.
Can't wait, allready it seems that the winter has been too long....

Bent, S/Y Karma

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Graham Johnston <grahamjohnston42@...> wrote:

Bent,
Perhaps you rotary drive need the gears greasing, our was very noisy because the grease had dried up. After greasing it still makes a noise but is now quite bearable.
 
Graham
Sharki 181


________________________________
From: bent_jyllinge <bent_jyllinge@...>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, 15 December 2012, 18:02
Subject: [Amel] Re: Switching between Auto Pilot Drive Units


 


Bill,

That actually makes perfectly good sense.

We have a rotary unit above the galley, and the noise from that one is quite annoying.

The idea of having a spare allready installed is very apealing for the longer trips, so maybe I will go that way too.

I have to say, this is a great forum for a newbie Amel-owner, I learn a lot about the boats, so thank you all,

Bent,

Karma
Mango #67

--- In mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com, "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@> wrote:

Bent,

This is my Opinion:
You would want a redundant drive unit if you cross oceans...if not, it probably is not necessary. We left New Zealand about the same time as 18 boats on passages north in the 1,000+ mile range. We were one of three yachts that lost an autopilot drive unit. We were the only one that had an A/B switch and a second drive. All of the rest hand-steered for 7 - 10 days.

If your passages are less than four days, you may want to chance it without redundancy and/or spares. Hand-steering with two crew or less on long passages is problematic.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387

--- In mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com, "bent_jyllinge" <bent_jyllinge@> wrote:

Why is it that you want a second unit at all? From all the replies it seems to be quite common?

Bent
S/Y Karma, Mango #67


--- In mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com, "Barry" <seagasm@> wrote:

Hi Guys, Merry Xmas and a Happy New Year to you all. I am currently installing a Raymarine Linear drive unit to my existing Auto Pilot system. I have the original Rotary drive installed in above the Galley and the new Linear unit currently being installed in the aft cabin. I have replaced the existing quadrant for another from Amel to accommodate the new drive. All looking pretty good so far however, I need to know the switch to use so as to switch alternatively between the two drive units. I am guessing here by using a single DPDT heavy duty switch of 10amps should suffice. One side positive 24VDC switching between either drive, the other side 12VDC switching between either clutch. Any comments would be appreciated. Cheers.

Best Regards
Barry & Robyn
Tradewinds III SM 191



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


"Masse -" and "Masse +" (24V current leak)

ferruccilorenzo <ferruccilorenzo@...>
 

Hi everybody. After three weeks of search this morning I've found that the "Masse - red light" come from Yanmar engine. 
When engine is off "Masse -" light is on, when engine is running both "Masse -" AND "Masse +" are ON.

I've checked external wiring of 24V alternator and all cables are well wired. 
If I disconnect the 12V battery the light don't turn off (I think it's from 24V batteries).
Any ideas?
Thanks a lot and sorry for my bad Enlish

Lorenzo SV "Red Passion" currently in Elba island, Italy.


Re: [Amel] Re: Switching between Auto Pilot Drive Units

GrahamJohnston42 <grahamjohnston42@yahoo.com>
 

Bent,
Perhaps you rotary drive need the gears greasing, our was very noisy because the grease had dried up. After greasing it still makes a noise but is now quite bearable.
 
Graham
Sharki 181


________________________________
From: bent_jyllinge <bent_jyllinge@yahoo.dk>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, 15 December 2012, 18:02
Subject: [Amel] Re: Switching between Auto Pilot Drive Units


 


Bill,

That actually makes perfectly good sense.

We have a rotary unit above the galley, and the noise from that one is quite annoying.

The idea of having a spare allready installed is very apealing for the longer trips, so maybe I will go that way too.

I have to say, this is a great forum for a newbie Amel-owner, I learn a lot about the boats, so thank you all,

Bent,

Karma
Mango #67

--- In mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com, "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@...> wrote:

Bent,

This is my Opinion:
You would want a redundant drive unit if you cross oceans...if not, it probably is not necessary. We left New Zealand about the same time as 18 boats on passages north in the 1,000+ mile range. We were one of three yachts that lost an autopilot drive unit. We were the only one that had an A/B switch and a second drive. All of the rest hand-steered for 7 - 10 days.

If your passages are less than four days, you may want to chance it without redundancy and/or spares. Hand-steering with two crew or less on long passages is problematic.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387

--- In mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com, "bent_jyllinge" <bent_jyllinge@> wrote:

Why is it that you want a second unit at all? From all the replies it seems to be quite common?

Bent
S/Y Karma, Mango #67


--- In mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com, "Barry" <seagasm@> wrote:

Hi Guys, Merry Xmas and a Happy New Year to you all. I am currently installing a Raymarine Linear drive unit to my existing Auto Pilot system. I have the original Rotary drive installed in above the Galley and the new Linear unit currently being installed in the aft cabin. I have replaced the existing quadrant for another from Amel to accommodate the new drive. All looking pretty good so far however, I need to know the switch to use so as to switch alternatively between the two drive units. I am guessing here by using a single DPDT heavy duty switch of 10amps should suffice. One side positive 24VDC switching between either drive, the other side 12VDC switching between either clutch. Any comments would be appreciated. Cheers.

Best Regards
Barry & Robyn
Tradewinds III SM 191