Date   

Re: [Amel] Main sail for sale

Frederic Houdaille <fhoudaille@...>
 

Hi Paul,
Do you have a number where I could call you? If so, please email me at fhoudaille@yahoo.com.
Cheers,
Fred


________________________________
From: Paul LaFrance <pflafrance@hotmail.com>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2012 6:43 AM
Subject: RE: [Amel] Main sail for sale


Fred
I could arrange for the transaction before May. We have friends in CT and RI that could arrange pickuo.

Paul LaFrance SV NOMAD SM # 362
Currently in Fajardo, PR

To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
From: fhoudaille@yahoo.com
Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2012 13:31:54 -0800
Subject: Re: [Amel] Main sail for sale




















 


   
     
     
      Hi Paul,

I'll check next time I am on the boat and will let you know then.

Having said that, we are planning on heading out to the Med around mid May so if you do not anticipate to be in RI until May, this could be a problem...

Happy Holiday!

Fred



________________________________

From: Paul LaFrance <pflafrance@hotmail.com>

To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2012 11:29 AM

Subject: RE: [Amel] Main sail for sale





Fred

We are currently looking at replacing our main sail with a North sail. We will be in RI in May. If possible please supply specs ie: cloth stitch material etc if you have the info.



Paul LaFrance

SV NOMAD SM #362

Currently in Fajardo, PR



To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com

From: fhoudaille@yahoo.com

Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2012 10:38:27 -0800

Subject: [Amel] Main sail for sale



 



   

     

     

      Hi there,



I am selling our SM's main sail as we are upgrading to a high performance sailcloth in preparation for our long upcoming sabbatical. Our existing main was made by North Sail in January of 2012 at the request of the former owner of our boat (I purchased this boat in May of 2012). It has very limited mileage so it is in great condition, just not quite what I want to sail around the world with.



Let me know if you are interested.



Cheers,



Fred



"Zazen" #404, in Bear, DE       



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

   



   

   



                           



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------



Yahoo! Groups Links









   
   

   
   






                         

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Onan MDKAV 7kW 1999hrs Stops unexpectedly: no error code

Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Alessandro,

If you have the part number, please post it. I want to compare it to the part number on #387.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Alessandro Gennai <agennai@...> wrote:

Hi
Regarding my problem with Onan gen set I had fixed it and I thank you for your help.
i changed the actuator and Onan didn't stop anymore BUT it sounded not good as well....so I looked for the problem at , at the end , I found it: when I changed the fuel filter during crossing I had a problem with screw and ,maybe, I damaged it....so also with a new filter there was a little linkage of air along the screw of fuel filter so when Onan was on load , actuator " asked" more fuel, air entered, actuator was busy and burned....so I changed also the fuel filter support and now it works perfectly!
Thanks again
Alessandro
Grand Cru supermaramu 2k #443
Bequia

Inviato da iPad di Alessandro Gennai

Il giorno 07/dic/2012, alle ore 04:13, RIZA CAGDAS CAKIR <rizacagdascakir@...> ha scritto:

Drew,

It seems to me seawater flow sensor by somehow sence there is no flow and
shuts off the genset, and you run again it runs and stops after 30min , if
this is the reason you should see an error code ( blinking on carling switch
) . But I am thinking two possible cause ; 1- fuel filter, if that is old or
dirty that may cause the same thing , 2- sea water flow sensor if it block
somehow by small dirt that stops the genset

If those doesn't solve write back to me,

RIZA

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of drew_gaffney
Sent: Friday, December 07, 2012 9:03 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Onan MDKAV 7kW 1999hrs Stops unexpectedly: no error code

We're currently anchored off Ko Lipe in Thailand. It's hot, 90F+ and we're
having trouble getting our Onan to run for longer than 30min. I've replaced
the impellor, zinc, checked the heat exchanger, and everything seems fine,
except it simply quits; no error code; will
restart easily, but then quits again after 15-30min. There is plenty of
water coming out the exhaust and good suction on the seawater intake (I can
close the sea-chest and pull from a large bucket of fresh water, so I can
feel the suction.)
When the generator is working, it delivers 230V, 50.4Hz and I'm not drawing
more than 20A while charging.
Any ideas?
Thanks,
Drew
SM2K#390






Re: [Amel] Onan MDKAV 7kW 1999hrs Stops unexpectedly: no error code

Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

Glad you got it going. Please do not forget to clean out the broken bits in the heat exchanger. Soon or later they will give you trouble. Happy Sailing and NAPPY NEW YEAR TO ALL.

Regards

Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

On Dec 26, 2012, at 6:30, Alessandro Gennai <agennai@mac.com> wrote:

Hi
Regarding my problem with Onan gen set I had fixed it and I thank you for your help.
i changed the actuator and Onan didn't stop anymore BUT it sounded not good as well....so I looked for the problem at , at the end , I found it: when I changed the fuel filter during crossing I had a problem with screw and ,maybe, I damaged it....so also with a new filter there was a little linkage of air along the screw of fuel filter so when Onan was on load , actuator " asked" more fuel, air entered, actuator was busy and burned....so I changed also the fuel filter support and now it works perfectly!
Thanks again
Alessandro
Grand Cru supermaramu 2k #443
Bequia

Inviato da iPad di Alessandro Gennai

Il giorno 07/dic/2012, alle ore 04:13, RIZA CAGDAS CAKIR <rizacagdascakir@gmail.com> ha scritto:

Drew,

It seems to me seawater flow sensor by somehow sence there is no flow and
shuts off the genset, and you run again it runs and stops after 30min , if
this is the reason you should see an error code ( blinking on carling switch
) . But I am thinking two possible cause ; 1- fuel filter, if that is old or
dirty that may cause the same thing , 2- sea water flow sensor if it block
somehow by small dirt that stops the genset

If those doesn't solve write back to me,

RIZA

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of drew_gaffney
Sent: Friday, December 07, 2012 9:03 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Onan MDKAV 7kW 1999hrs Stops unexpectedly: no error code

We're currently anchored off Ko Lipe in Thailand. It's hot, 90F+ and we're
having trouble getting our Onan to run for longer than 30min. I've replaced
the impellor, zinc, checked the heat exchanger, and everything seems fine,
except it simply quits; no error code; will
restart easily, but then quits again after 15-30min. There is plenty of
water coming out the exhaust and good suction on the seawater intake (I can
close the sea-chest and pull from a large bucket of fresh water, so I can
feel the suction.)
When the generator is working, it delivers 230V, 50.4Hz and I'm not drawing
more than 20A while charging.
Any ideas?
Thanks,
Drew
SM2K#390






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Main sail for sale

Paul LaFrance <pflafrance@...>
 

Fred
I could arrange for the transaction before May. We have friends in CT and RI that could arrange pickuo.

Paul LaFrance SV NOMAD SM # 362
Currently in Fajardo, PR

To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
From: fhoudaille@yahoo.com
Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2012 13:31:54 -0800
Subject: Re: [Amel] Main sail for sale


























Hi Paul,

I'll check next time I am on the boat and will let you know then.

Having said that, we are planning on heading out to the Med around mid May so if you do not anticipate to be in RI until May, this could be a problem...

Happy Holiday!

Fred



________________________________

From: Paul LaFrance <pflafrance@hotmail.com>

To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2012 11:29 AM

Subject: RE: [Amel] Main sail for sale





Fred

We are currently looking at replacing our main sail with a North sail. We will be in RI in May. If possible please supply specs ie: cloth stitch material etc if you have the info.



Paul LaFrance

SV NOMAD SM #362

Currently in Fajardo, PR



To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com

From: fhoudaille@yahoo.com

Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2012 10:38:27 -0800

Subject: [Amel] Main sail for sale













Hi there,



I am selling our SM's main sail as we are upgrading to a high performance sailcloth in preparation for our long upcoming sabbatical. Our existing main was made by North Sail in January of 2012 at the request of the former owner of our boat (I purchased this boat in May of 2012). It has very limited mileage so it is in great condition, just not quite what I want to sail around the world with.



Let me know if you are interested.



Cheers,



Fred



"Zazen" #404, in Bear, DE



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------



Yahoo! Groups Links



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Onan MDKAV 7kW 1999hrs Stops unexpectedly: no error code

Alessandro Gennai <agennai@...>
 

Hi
Regarding my problem with Onan gen set I had fixed it and I thank you for your help.
i changed the actuator and Onan didn't stop anymore BUT it sounded not good as well....so I looked for the problem at , at the end , I found it: when I changed the fuel filter during crossing I had a problem with screw and ,maybe, I damaged it....so also with a new filter there was a little linkage of air along the screw of fuel filter so when Onan was on load , actuator " asked" more fuel, air entered, actuator was busy and burned....so I changed also the fuel filter support and now it works perfectly!
Thanks again
Alessandro
Grand Cru supermaramu 2k #443
Bequia

Inviato da iPad di Alessandro Gennai

Il giorno 07/dic/2012, alle ore 04:13, RIZA CAGDAS CAKIR <rizacagdascakir@gmail.com> ha scritto:

Drew,

It seems to me seawater flow sensor by somehow sence there is no flow and
shuts off the genset, and you run again it runs and stops after 30min , if
this is the reason you should see an error code ( blinking on carling switch
) . But I am thinking two possible cause ; 1- fuel filter, if that is old or
dirty that may cause the same thing , 2- sea water flow sensor if it block
somehow by small dirt that stops the genset

If those doesn't solve write back to me,

RIZA

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of drew_gaffney
Sent: Friday, December 07, 2012 9:03 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Onan MDKAV 7kW 1999hrs Stops unexpectedly: no error code

We're currently anchored off Ko Lipe in Thailand. It's hot, 90F+ and we're
having trouble getting our Onan to run for longer than 30min. I've replaced
the impellor, zinc, checked the heat exchanger, and everything seems fine,
except it simply quits; no error code; will
restart easily, but then quits again after 15-30min. There is plenty of
water coming out the exhaust and good suction on the seawater intake (I can
close the sea-chest and pull from a large bucket of fresh water, so I can
feel the suction.)
When the generator is working, it delivers 230V, 50.4Hz and I'm not drawing
more than 20A while charging.
Any ideas?
Thanks,
Drew
SM2K#390




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Rép. : [Amel] Re: old Maramu - considering painted bulkheads in toilet compartments

Serge Tremblay <laetitiaii@...>
 

Beleive experience!
 
Replace existing leatherette is most efficienct and simple if after cleaning the bulkheads from residue with a wire brush on a grinder a new felt or cotton backed high quality leatherette is glued to the bulkhead with Sika.
 
Serge
 
V Opera
 
Mango # 51



--- En date de : Sam, 22.12.12, Alex <alex.paquin@usa.net> a écrit :


De : Alex <alex.paquin@usa.net>
Objet : [Amel] Re: old Maramu - considering painted bulkheads in toilet compartments
À : amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: samedi 22 décembre 2012 00 h 30



 



Dave;
We decided to change all the headliner and original material on the boat. It is a dreadful job. Joel Potter wrote on this sometime ago and issued some stern warnings.
We discovered that the surface is highly irregular and "transparent" in some places. The material we used now has a light padding, hopefully it will last 15 more years and never need replacing again in my lifetime. I doubt painting is an option.
In the cockpit and aft cabin the new liner is now "floating", not glued directly to the surface. We used thin strips of wood as a base, screwed to the fiberglass using short SS screws. The liner is SS stapled to these strips in a way that we used the original wood trimming to conceal the staples. This is all hard work and requires lots of patience and detail. It is important to note that we also replaced all the crazed plexiglass in all hatches and side port lights, which requires the inside plywood panels to be removed as well. These cover the headliner edges around the port lights.
Now the heads: we will apply a more neutral gelcoat in the floor pans and will change the green and orange carpet lining the shelves. We also changed the formica on the shelve cover panel. believe me this is a huge project and has consumed 6 months.
Alex
Simpatico
Amel Maramu #94, 1981

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Dave_Benjamin" <dave_benjamin@...> wrote:

Like so many older Amel sailboats, the vinyl headliners are failing in several places. In the toilet compartments we are considering just painting the bulkheads.

Before we remove the vinyl, I thought it would be good to ask if anyone has painted as opposed to replacing the vinyl. If so, was there a lot of work involved in getting the surface smooth enough for paint?

As part of this project we are going to repaint the fiberglass floor pans in the toilet compartments. Our boat, formerly owned by Henri Amel himself, is a bit different than others we've seen in that the floor pan in the forward toilet compartment is orange and the aft one is green. The yard also used different color carpet on the shelves. We don't know if Henri suggested they just use remnants or if that was the desired appearance.







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Merry Christmas and Happy New Year

Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

Best AND LASTING HOLIDAY JOY TO ALL. MY YOU ALL BE BLESSED IN THE NEW YEAR

Regards sm 209

Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

On Dec 24, 2012, at 5:58, SAMET GOLGECI <finikeyachting@gmail.com> wrote:

*Yeni Y�l�n�z� En ��ten Dileklerimle Kutlar; 2013'te sa�l�k, mutluluk,
esenlik ve bol kazan�lar dilerim.*
*
*

*Best wishes for the festive season and we hope you have fair winds and
calm seas for your sailing in 2013.*

* *

*I hope that your Christmas would be enjoyable & may the essence of
Christmas remains always with you.*

--
Saygilarimizla / Best Regards / Mit Freundliche Grusse;


Samet Golgeci

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links



Windows 8

Ian Shepherd
 

For those of you that use a Windows computer to display navigation software, beware of moving to Windows 8. I recently bought a Toshiba Ultrabook for my Amel that was supplied with Win 8. Apart from the ghastly user interface, there is no built in support in Windows 8 for programs such as Franson GPG gate or Xport. They will run but you will not be able to create working virtual com ports. You will therefore not be able to easily distribute GPS NMEA data to your various nav software programs, autopilot, DSC VHF etc.

Win 8 may detect a GPS device plugged into a USB port but I have not tested it as I am 2000 miles away from my boat. On Crusader GPS data is derived from the AIS receiver and distributed where ever I need it via GPS Gate- on Windows 7 that is.

Also beware that Windows 7 may not run on the latest hardware. Win 7 would not install on my Toshiba U940 model despite having formatted the hard disk first. Fortunately I was able to return the U940 with a full refund and I have ordered a U840 which is made for and supplied with Windows 7. Short term that is a solution, but where will that leave us now that Microsoft and the OEM's are forcing us onto windows 8? I have contacted Franson and they say that they do not have a solution. Maybe if enough of us contact Microsoft they will incorporate the code to support virtual com ports once more. At my son's workplace all the security cameras are connected via virtual ports to the computer network, so we are not alone in our requirements.

Maybe in time a third party will write a fix just as they already have to restore the start button and conventional menu and bypass the Metro opening screen. Clearly Microsoft are disappointing a lot of past customers with their new operating system.

Merry Xmas

Ian Shepherd SM2000 #414 Crusader


Re: old Maramu - considering painted bulkheads in toilet compartments

Dave_Benjamin
 

I just want to thank John, Alex. and Dave for their responses on this topic. You've given us a lot to think about. It will be a lot of work but certainly worth it.

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "jjjk12s" <jjjk12s@...> wrote:

Dave,

I have recently redone all the vinyl in my Maramu. After lots of research I decided new vinyl is the best off all finishing options including in the heads.


Re: [Amel] Main sail for sale

Frederic Houdaille <fhoudaille@...>
 

Hi Paul,
I'll check next time I am on the boat and will let you know then.
Having said that, we are planning on heading out to the Med around mid May so if you do not anticipate to be in RI until May, this could be a problem...
Happy Holiday!
Fred


________________________________
From: Paul LaFrance <pflafrance@hotmail.com>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2012 11:29 AM
Subject: RE: [Amel] Main sail for sale


Fred
We are currently looking at replacing our main sail with a North sail. We will be in RI in May. If possible please supply specs ie: cloth stitch material etc if you have the info.

Paul LaFrance
SV NOMAD SM #362
Currently in Fajardo, PR

To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
From: fhoudaille@yahoo.com
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2012 10:38:27 -0800
Subject: [Amel] Main sail for sale




















 


   
     
     
      Hi there,

I am selling our SM's main sail as we are upgrading to a high performance sailcloth in preparation for our long upcoming sabbatical. Our existing main was made by North Sail in January of 2012 at the request of the former owner of our boat (I purchased this boat in May of 2012). It has very limited mileage so it is in great condition, just not quite what I want to sail around the world with.

Let me know if you are interested.

Cheers,

Fred

"Zazen" #404, in Bear, DE       



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





   
   

   
   






                         





------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Main sail for sale

Paul LaFrance <pflafrance@...>
 

Fred
We are currently looking at replacing our main sail with a North sail. We will be in RI in May. If possible please supply specs ie: cloth stitch material etc if you have the info.

Paul LaFrance
SV NOMAD SM #362
Currently in Fajardo, PR

To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
From: fhoudaille@yahoo.com
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2012 10:38:27 -0800
Subject: [Amel] Main sail for sale


























Hi there,

I am selling our SM's main sail as we are upgrading to a high performance sailcloth in preparation for our long upcoming sabbatical. Our existing main was made by North Sail in January of 2012 at the request of the former owner of our boat (I purchased this boat in May of 2012). It has very limited mileage so it is in great condition, just not quite what I want to sail around the world with.

Let me know if you are interested.

Cheers,

Fred

"Zazen" #404, in Bear, DE



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: old Maramu - considering painted bulkheads in toilet compartments

jjjk12s <jjjk12s@...>
 

Dave,

I have recently redone all the vinyl in my Maramu. After lots of research I decided new vinyl is the best off all finishing options including in the heads.

The heads are one of the easier areas to do. The wood under the vinyl is very good quality but uneven in places where the bulkheads are laminated in. The amount of fairing needed to make it smooth would be a problem as would be removing all traces of glue to prepare the surface. A small amount of wiring also runs under the vinyl and would be hard to hide if the surface was painted. You could cover with hard panels (there is stuff here called Lamnipanel, which is like very thick formica) but it would take plenty of skill to make it accurately. But if you can do it it would be a good surface for keeping clean. The one area to fair and paint is the hull area below the shelves by the seacocks.

I looked at old posts and did plenty of research and eventually came up with my own system using felt backed vinyl which I have been very pleased with. First I tried to follow Joel's post from a while ago but I couldn't locate the special glue he describes (I'm in Queensland), the old vinyl was too tatty to reglue, and where the old vinyl had previously been reglued without the foam backing it showed up the uneveness in the surface beneath.

I decided to definately not replace old foam-backed vinyl with new foam backed vinyl. When I bought Popeye there was a roll of new foam backed vinyl that a previous owner had bought. The foam on this was falling away from the vinyl and the stuff had not yet been put up!

I noted that since 1997 Amel have used a felt backed vinyl. I tried to source some of this but could not. However, I decided to use felt of some sort to make a backing for the vinyl to give the same look and smoothness as the original. I experimented with cotton, wool and polyester felts and hull lining and different glues on swatches. The best was polar fleece (polyester) material and a combination of water-soluble contact adhesive and 3M automotive trim spray contact adhesive. I looked at fire resistance and the polyester seems best and it is possible to get fire retardant. The fleece I used was much better than polyester hull liner from the chandlers. The material used has to hold the glue well and also be soft enough to compress by fittings and not have a "memory".

The best system I found was this (applies to doing the heads.)

VERY IMPORTANT - Beware of dust and use proper safety/health precautions as described in Joel's post.

1. I removed all wood trim and the toilet, sinks and fascia for the shelves. The wood trim that is nailed on can be removed carefully and the nails replaced with small coutersunk screws later.
2. The vinyl should come off easily with disintegrated foam behind. I used a good vacuum cleaner and vacuumed as I peeled back the vinyl to minimize any loose dust. I used the vacuum with a faily stiff upholstery brush fitting to get nearly all the foam residue off (mostly disintegrated). I vacuumed the back of the vinyl and kept as templates.
3. I used a wire brush and scraper to get the last of any loose foam off and as much old glue as possible and vacuumed. Beware of using a wire brush on a ginder or a face-off wheel as dust will go everywhere. I used this a bit where old vinyl repairs had left contact adhesive on the surface. At this stage the boat looks worth zero dollars!
4. When the surface was clean enough I wiped down with solvent and when ready I used the templates to oversize cut out the fleece material (white). One panel at a time I used a brush to liberally apply water-soluble contact adhesive to the surface (I used Selleys Advanced which is heat resistant and like normal contact adhesive when dry but has a longer work time). The important thing about this stage is that the fleece is porous so the glue can be applied to one surface only and the fleece moved around to get smooth before the glue bites. Also if spray glue was used at this stage it may not be strong enough to deal with any residual glue or dust on the surface.
5. I then trimmed the edges of the fleece material and left the glue to thoroughly dry.
6. Next I used the 3M automotive trim spray cans to glue the vinyl to the fleece. This is tricky and help is handy. If the vinyl sticks to itself it is ruined. I cut the vinyl over sized then sprayed a bit at a time and worked out to the edges. The small panels are ok the big ones are tricky. The floor pan was unscrewed and vinyl tucked behind with a tucking tool - finished later with a bead of off-whaite sealant.
7. I then trimmed the edges carefully with a craft knife and replaced the wood trim. The whole job will take between a few days to a week for one head compartment and cause a certain level of stress.

Whilst I was doing the above I repainted the floors with two pack poly(one green and one orange but now off-white). The sinks and shelf fascia was resprayed professionally with 2 pack poly - looks like new. You would also probably want to replace the lining/carpet on the shelves. The vinyl I used was very hard to choose and is a key to the success of the project. It is commercial grade,cream coloured (like the latest Amels ;), and has a light grain texture almost identical to the original (I think Naugasoft is too soft and too smooth).

The whole job was time consuming and gluing neatly is tricky at first but after a bit of practice not bad if you are handy. The climate here is tropical and lately very hot. So far the vinyl shows no sign of moving. The hardest bit is gluing vinyl to vinyl as you need special glue (you don't need to do this in the heads.) I have tried to keep this as brief as possible but it's a big job. After doing a whole boat you would not want to do it again in a rush!

Regards
John, Popeye, Maramu #91

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Dave_Benjamin" <dave_benjamin@...> wrote:

Like so many older Amel sailboats, the vinyl headliners are failing in several places. In the toilet compartments we are considering just painting the bulkheads.

Before we remove the vinyl, I thought it would be good to ask if anyone has painted as opposed to replacing the vinyl. If so, was there a lot of work involved in getting the surface smooth enough for paint?

As part of this project we are going to repaint the fiberglass floor pans in the toilet compartments. Our boat, formerly owned by Henri Amel himself, is a bit different than others we've seen in that the floor pan in the forward toilet compartment is orange and the aft one is green. The yard also used different color carpet on the shelves. We don't know if Henri suggested they just use remnants or if that was the desired appearance.


KANZAKI KMH4A AND SHAFT ALTERNATORS ON AMELS

Alejandro Paquin
 

Can anyone share information wether the KANZAKI KMH4A gear box that is supplied with some Yanmar engines can be used to run a shaft alternator like the Hurth gear boxes in the Amel Maramu?


Re: [Amel] old Maramu - considering painted bulkheads in toilet compartments

David Wallace
 

Dave,
An alternative for redoing the head bulkheads is to apply paneling directly over the vinyl, thereby avoiding the mess of removing the vinyl. We did that for both heads on Air Ops and it was a pretty straightforward job. We used the same technique for the overhead in the main salon, also with very good results.

Dave
s/v Air Ops
Maramu #104

On Dec 21, 2012, at 8:41 PM, Dave_Benjamin wrote:

Like so many older Amel sailboats, the vinyl headliners are failing in several places. In the toilet compartments we are considering just painting the bulkheads.

Before we remove the vinyl, I thought it would be good to ask if anyone has painted as opposed to replacing the vinyl. If so, was there a lot of work involved in getting the surface smooth enough for paint?

As part of this project we are going to repaint the fiberglass floor pans in the toilet compartments. Our boat, formerly owned by Henri Amel himself, is a bit different than others we've seen in that the floor pan in the forward toilet compartment is orange and the aft one is green. The yard also used different color carpet on the shelves. We don't know if Henri suggested they just use remnants or if that was the desired appearance.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: old Maramu - considering painted bulkheads in toilet compartments

Alejandro Paquin
 

Dave;
We decided to change all the headliner and original material on the boat. It is a dreadful job. Joel Potter wrote on this sometime ago and issued some stern warnings.
We discovered that the surface is highly irregular and "transparent" in some places. The material we used now has a light padding, hopefully it will last 15 more years and never need replacing again in my lifetime. I doubt painting is an option.
In the cockpit and aft cabin the new liner is now "floating", not glued directly to the surface. We used thin strips of wood as a base, screwed to the fiberglass using short SS screws. The liner is SS stapled to these strips in a way that we used the original wood trimming to conceal the staples. This is all hard work and requires lots of patience and detail. It is important to note that we also replaced all the crazed plexiglass in all hatches and side port lights, which requires the inside plywood panels to be removed as well. These cover the headliner edges around the port lights.
Now the heads: we will apply a more neutral gelcoat in the floor pans and will change the green and orange carpet lining the shelves. We also changed the formica on the shelve cover panel. believe me this is a huge project and has consumed 6 months.
Alex
Simpatico
Amel Maramu #94, 1981

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Dave_Benjamin" <dave_benjamin@...> wrote:

Like so many older Amel sailboats, the vinyl headliners are failing in several places. In the toilet compartments we are considering just painting the bulkheads.

Before we remove the vinyl, I thought it would be good to ask if anyone has painted as opposed to replacing the vinyl. If so, was there a lot of work involved in getting the surface smooth enough for paint?

As part of this project we are going to repaint the fiberglass floor pans in the toilet compartments. Our boat, formerly owned by Henri Amel himself, is a bit different than others we've seen in that the floor pan in the forward toilet compartment is orange and the aft one is green. The yard also used different color carpet on the shelves. We don't know if Henri suggested they just use remnants or if that was the desired appearance.


old Maramu - considering painted bulkheads in toilet compartments

Dave_Benjamin
 

Like so many older Amel sailboats, the vinyl headliners are failing in several places. In the toilet compartments we are considering just painting the bulkheads.

Before we remove the vinyl, I thought it would be good to ask if anyone has painted as opposed to replacing the vinyl. If so, was there a lot of work involved in getting the surface smooth enough for paint?

As part of this project we are going to repaint the fiberglass floor pans in the toilet compartments. Our boat, formerly owned by Henri Amel himself, is a bit different than others we've seen in that the floor pan in the forward toilet compartment is orange and the aft one is green. The yard also used different color carpet on the shelves. We don't know if Henri suggested they just use remnants or if that was the desired appearance.


Re: [Amel] Re: Strange problem with ONAN ---missing information

Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

Hi all be very careful regarding engine rpm's over or under will change the voltage an Hz out put that may do other damage. Note the run position of the lever and mark it. You may also want to use a tachometer to test and set.


Regards

Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

On Dec 21, 2012, at 7:41, "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@svbebe.com> wrote:

All,

There is some missing information in this thread because there were some private emails exchanged between myself and Alessandro.

I am sure that there are a few of you that would like to see that exchange, so I have pasted it here:

FROM ALESSANDRO TO BEBE:
Thank so much...I 'd try a new (fuel) pump BUT when Onan stopped no flashing code appears...
This is a strange thing!

FROM BEBE TO ALESSANDRO:
One more thing I thought of for a shutdown without a code:

Try this:
Go to the fuel injection pump and you should see a little lever that gets pulled by a small solenoid. That solenoid may be going bad. See if the solenoid is pulling or dropping out when the engine starts, then shut down.

This solenoid has two coils. One is 12VDC for starting and the other is 4VDC which holds the solenoid after starting. The 4 volt coil may be going bad. When you hold the start button down, the alarms are bypassed and the 12VDC coil on the solenoid is energized. When you release the start button, the 4VDC coil on the solenoid is energized and keeps the solenoid closed.

Try holding the lever with your hand, or mechanically keeping it in a "run position" by tying or wiring it in position. If the Onan continues to run, you need to replace this solenoid. I believe that if this solenoid fails you will receive no code.

Additionally, regarding the impeller blades:
If you did not get a shutdown code, the impeller was probably not the source of your shutdown because if your shutdown was due to overheating or lack of water flow, you would see a flashing code.

The best way that I have found to simply remove all of the impeller blades from the Onan Heat Exchanger is to close the main sea chest valve and open the end caps on both ends of the Heat Exchanger...while using a wet/dry shop vacuum (shop-vac) to suck the excess water and the blade parts which will end up in the vacuum. If you turn on the shop-vac as you loosen the end caps, you will capture all of the water and have zero water clean-up.

This would also be a great time to change the zinc on the Heat Exchanger.

Unfortunately, if you do not have a wet/dry shop-vac, you will need to remove the Heat Exchanger to get all of the pieces out. Removing the Exchanger is problematic with all of its connections, so buy or borrow a shopvac. Also, the end caps and end cap gaskets are delicate and may get damaged in this process. It is a good idea to keep end cap spares on-board.

Hope this solves your problem...let me know.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@...> wrote:

All concerned,

Alessandro emailed me directly and stated that he was getting a 33 code. He says that 33 is not in his owner's manual. I do not remember what codes are on the switch and in the manual. Since I am off the boat, I looked it up on-line and found 33 is an Onan overheat code. I emailed him and advised him to try cleaning his exchanger.

Best,

Bill
BeBe


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "seafeverofcuan" <seafeverofcuan@> wrote:

Alessandro,
if it is an overheating problem the yellow light at the start and stop switch either in the galley or on the generator should flash one single continual signal flash which means overheating. This will only happen after the generator has been running and overheated and stopped. If you touch the switch at all after that it will clear the signal.
If you have checked in the seawater side of the heat exchanger, meaning take off the round end cap on the port side and not found any missing rubber pieces then take off the sea water pump, it is only two bolts and easy to remove. Be sure and close the grey seawater strainer on the starboard side where the red handle is first.
Look inside the outflow pipe of the pump and make sure that there are no rubber pieces stuck in there.
The slightest little water or electrical hiccup will stop the generator. Be sure to reopen the sea water strainer after you put the pump back on and start the generator.
I have never got more than 120 hours from a genuine Onan impeller they need to be inspected and changed often.
Good luck.

Trevor Lusty
Sea Fever of Cuan
Super Maramu
Nicaragua

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "alexgennai" <agennai@> wrote:

My boat is a SUPERMARAMU 2k #443 lunched 2004
I just crossed atlantic and during passage Onan worked perfectly for 6h/day for 15days but the 16th day began to "cough" and stopped: I check Racor were ok, I changed fuel filter, But I found impeller broker and so I changed it!
BUT, anyway, after that my ONAN works well for just 20 minutes than starts "coughing" and stops! Now I''m in St lucia and here mechanic can't solve the problem so I'm here asking your help if someone could give us an idea....I'd appreciate all suggestions!!!!

Saluti
Alessandro
GRAND CRU
Supermaramu 2k #443
Rodney bay - st lucia


Re: Strange problem with ONAN ---missing information

Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
 

All,

There is some missing information in this thread because there were some private emails exchanged between myself and Alessandro.

I am sure that there are a few of you that would like to see that exchange, so I have pasted it here:

FROM ALESSANDRO TO BEBE:
Thank so much...I 'd try a new (fuel) pump BUT when Onan stopped no flashing code appears...
This is a strange thing!


FROM BEBE TO ALESSANDRO:
One more thing I thought of for a shutdown without a code:

Try this:
Go to the fuel injection pump and you should see a little lever that gets pulled by a small solenoid. That solenoid may be going bad. See if the solenoid is pulling or dropping out when the engine starts, then shut down.

This solenoid has two coils. One is 12VDC for starting and the other is 4VDC which holds the solenoid after starting. The 4 volt coil may be going bad. When you hold the start button down, the alarms are bypassed and the 12VDC coil on the solenoid is energized. When you release the start button, the 4VDC coil on the solenoid is energized and keeps the solenoid closed.

Try holding the lever with your hand, or mechanically keeping it in a "run position" by tying or wiring it in position. If the Onan continues to run, you need to replace this solenoid. I believe that if this solenoid fails you will receive no code.

Additionally, regarding the impeller blades:
If you did not get a shutdown code, the impeller was probably not the source of your shutdown because if your shutdown was due to overheating or lack of water flow, you would see a flashing code.

The best way that I have found to simply remove all of the impeller blades from the Onan Heat Exchanger is to close the main sea chest valve and open the end caps on both ends of the Heat Exchanger...while using a wet/dry shop vacuum (shop-vac) to suck the excess water and the blade parts which will end up in the vacuum. If you turn on the shop-vac as you loosen the end caps, you will capture all of the water and have zero water clean-up.

This would also be a great time to change the zinc on the Heat Exchanger.

Unfortunately, if you do not have a wet/dry shop-vac, you will need to remove the Heat Exchanger to get all of the pieces out. Removing the Exchanger is problematic with all of its connections, so buy or borrow a shopvac. Also, the end caps and end cap gaskets are delicate and may get damaged in this process. It is a good idea to keep end cap spares on-board.

Hope this solves your problem...let me know.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@...> wrote:

All concerned,

Alessandro emailed me directly and stated that he was getting a 33 code. He says that 33 is not in his owner's manual. I do not remember what codes are on the switch and in the manual. Since I am off the boat, I looked it up on-line and found 33 is an Onan overheat code. I emailed him and advised him to try cleaning his exchanger.

Best,

Bill
BeBe


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "seafeverofcuan" <seafeverofcuan@> wrote:

Alessandro,
if it is an overheating problem the yellow light at the start and stop switch either in the galley or on the generator should flash one single continual signal flash which means overheating. This will only happen after the generator has been running and overheated and stopped. If you touch the switch at all after that it will clear the signal.
If you have checked in the seawater side of the heat exchanger, meaning take off the round end cap on the port side and not found any missing rubber pieces then take off the sea water pump, it is only two bolts and easy to remove. Be sure and close the grey seawater strainer on the starboard side where the red handle is first.
Look inside the outflow pipe of the pump and make sure that there are no rubber pieces stuck in there.
The slightest little water or electrical hiccup will stop the generator. Be sure to reopen the sea water strainer after you put the pump back on and start the generator.
I have never got more than 120 hours from a genuine Onan impeller they need to be inspected and changed often.
Good luck.

Trevor Lusty
Sea Fever of Cuan
Super Maramu
Nicaragua

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "alexgennai" <agennai@> wrote:

My boat is a SUPERMARAMU 2k #443 lunched 2004
I just crossed atlantic and during passage Onan worked perfectly for 6h/day for 15days but the 16th day began to "cough" and stopped: I check Racor were ok, I changed fuel filter, But I found impeller broker and so I changed it!
BUT, anyway, after that my ONAN works well for just 20 minutes than starts "coughing" and stops! Now I''m in St lucia and here mechanic can't solve the problem so I'm here asking your help if someone could give us an idea....I'd appreciate all suggestions!!!!

Saluti
Alessandro
GRAND CRU
Supermaramu 2k #443
Rodney bay - st lucia


Re: Strange problem with ONAN

Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
 

All concerned,

Alessandro emailed me directly and stated that he was getting a 33 code. He says that 33 is not in his owner's manual. I do not remember what codes are on the switch and in the manual. Since I am off the boat, I looked it up on-line and found 33 is an Onan overheat code. I emailed him and advised him to try cleaning his exchanger.

Best,

Bill
BeBe

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "seafeverofcuan" <seafeverofcuan@...> wrote:

Alessandro,
if it is an overheating problem the yellow light at the start and stop switch either in the galley or on the generator should flash one single continual signal flash which means overheating. This will only happen after the generator has been running and overheated and stopped. If you touch the switch at all after that it will clear the signal.
If you have checked in the seawater side of the heat exchanger, meaning take off the round end cap on the port side and not found any missing rubber pieces then take off the sea water pump, it is only two bolts and easy to remove. Be sure and close the grey seawater strainer on the starboard side where the red handle is first.
Look inside the outflow pipe of the pump and make sure that there are no rubber pieces stuck in there.
The slightest little water or electrical hiccup will stop the generator. Be sure to reopen the sea water strainer after you put the pump back on and start the generator.
I have never got more than 120 hours from a genuine Onan impeller they need to be inspected and changed often.
Good luck.

Trevor Lusty
Sea Fever of Cuan
Super Maramu
Nicaragua

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "alexgennai" <agennai@> wrote:

My boat is a SUPERMARAMU 2k #443 lunched 2004
I just crossed atlantic and during passage Onan worked perfectly for 6h/day for 15days but the 16th day began to "cough" and stopped: I check Racor were ok, I changed fuel filter, But I found impeller broker and so I changed it!
BUT, anyway, after that my ONAN works well for just 20 minutes than starts "coughing" and stops! Now I''m in St lucia and here mechanic can't solve the problem so I'm here asking your help if someone could give us an idea....I'd appreciate all suggestions!!!!

Saluti
Alessandro
GRAND CRU
Supermaramu 2k #443
Rodney bay - st lucia


Re: Strange problem with ONAN

seafeverofcuan <seafeverofcuan@...>
 

Alessandro,
if it is an overheating problem the yellow light at the start and stop switch either in the galley or on the generator should flash one single continual signal flash which means overheating. This will only happen after the generator has been running and overheated and stopped. If you touch the switch at all after that it will clear the signal.
If you have checked in the seawater side of the heat exchanger, meaning take off the round end cap on the port side and not found any missing rubber pieces then take off the sea water pump, it is only two bolts and easy to remove. Be sure and close the grey seawater strainer on the starboard side where the red handle is first.
Look inside the outflow pipe of the pump and make sure that there are no rubber pieces stuck in there.
The slightest little water or electrical hiccup will stop the generator. Be sure to reopen the sea water strainer after you put the pump back on and start the generator.
I have never got more than 120 hours from a genuine Onan impeller they need to be inspected and changed often.
Good luck.

Trevor Lusty
Sea Fever of Cuan
Super Maramu
Nicaragua

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "alexgennai" <agennai@...> wrote:

My boat is a SUPERMARAMU 2k #443 lunched 2004
I just crossed atlantic and during passage Onan worked perfectly for 6h/day for 15days but the 16th day began to "cough" and stopped: I check Racor were ok, I changed fuel filter, But I found impeller broker and so I changed it!
BUT, anyway, after that my ONAN works well for just 20 minutes than starts "coughing" and stops! Now I''m in St lucia and here mechanic can't solve the problem so I'm here asking your help if someone could give us an idea....I'd appreciate all suggestions!!!!

Saluti
Alessandro
GRAND CRU
Supermaramu 2k #443
Rodney bay - st lucia