Date   

Re: Refit of Too much Interior

jjjk12s <jjjk12s@...>
 

It looks beautiful but I am surprised water doesn't splash in if the portlights are open in those conditions.

John, Maramu #91 Popeye

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "sabbatical3" wrote:


I was aboard "Too Much" and saw the exquisite work that Jean has done. It is really quite remarkable. One has to be aboard on a sunny day to really appreciate his work.

Mark
Sabbatical III, SM #419, Phuket
--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Hanspeter" wrote:

Hello

We shoot the 360° picture on board the SY "Too Much" and we can confirm that all the modifications inside the yacht are real. It is the result of 2 month of hard work from Jean Paillardon himself. He is helping us to realise the similar alteration on our Super Maramu at the moment. Picture will be posted soon, work in progress can be seen live in Ao Chalong Bay, Phuket, Thailand ...

Best regards

Nathalie & Hanspeter
SY "Nathape" # 158


Re: [Amel] loose gooseneck

Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

Hi all if you can not find a shop to make a new gooseneck then in line with Joels comment I'd sleeve it with a nylon bushing and. Lube the bolt with silicon grease. That way you get a good non metallic solution for the time being. By the way at one time there was a nylon bushing in that assembly. Most likely long worn out.

Regards

Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

On Jan 19, 2013, at 11:46, "Joel F Potter" <jfpottercys@...> wrote:

Hi Mark and thanks for bringing it to my attention that I used to own your
boat! I must be slippin'.

The suggested repair troubles me on several levels.

First, I was told by Amel that the gooseneck is "heat treated" solid
aluminum and should "last forever". Oh well. Even if done very carefully
using cutting/cooling lubricants, the heat generated by drilling this
component would all but surely weaken it.

Second, placing a steel sleeve inside an aluminum component and then running
a stainless steel bolt through the whole thing sounds more like a newfangled
high tech battery than anything else. All joking aside, you will surely find
extreme electrolysis in this assembly as soon as you introduce salt water
into the mix.

I maintain that these goosenecks should be replaced. If you have one made
locally, be sure to have the machinist test the hardness of the aluminum
block and try to match it. I am hopeful Amel should still have this part or
access to obtaining replacements.

After the entire standing rigging and the mast steps/receivers/compression
assemblies, the goosenecks are the third most dangerous rigging component to
the safety of the vessel and those aboard were they to fail
catastrophically. Be sure. Replace, don't repair.

It really brings a big fat smile to my face to know you are doing well and
enjoying your Amel as you make your way around the world. Thanks.

All the best,

Joel

Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC

Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas

Mailing Address: 401 East Las Olas Boulevard #130-126

Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301

Phone: (954) 462-5869 Cell: (954) 812-2485

Email: jfpottercys@...

www.yachtworld.com/jfpottercys

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Mark
Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2013 3:44 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel] loose gooseneck

Hi Joel,

Thanks for the prompt reply.

The wiggle appears to be due to looseness in the horizontal bolts that
attach the boom to the aluminum piece at the gooseneck. He is proposing
taking the boom off, removing the aluminum piece, drilling a somewhat larger
hole, and inserting a steel bushing around the bolt to remove the wobble. I
would estimate that each of the booms has about 5-10 degrees of freedom to
rotate (in the axis along the length of the vessel) because of looseness of
the bolt in the aluminum block. Of course, I'm _not_ referring to the two
other freedoms of movement that are obviously intended by using an aluminum
block and two bolts. I'd be happy to send a picture if this isn't clear.

The rigger appears to be knowledgeable and says he has done this kind of
operation before.

The question I have is: whether the wobble should be there? Should I do
anything about it?

As you are aware, SV Northfork was once your SM2K demo vessel. In the
intervening years it has been not once but twice around the world (we are in
Cape Town South Africa about to head across the Atlantic)... so a little
wear between the bolt/aluminum is perhaps understandable :).

best regards, Mark

--- In amelyachtowners@...
, "Joel F Potter" wrote:

Always pay attention to a professional rigger until he proves otherwise.
That said, I have had many of them unfamiliar with aspects of Amel stuff
get
kind of snarky. The dreaded "Not invented here" syndrome.



Mark, what part is loose? If there is "slop" in the aluminum piece that
takes the vertical and horizontal axis bolts, I would replace it rather
than
drill things oversize. If the bolts are worn, well, call the Guinness book
of World Records. Probably the aluminum piece. It is a simple piece of
hard
aluminum that should be easy to duplicate if Amel does not have them in
stock.



I am curious about this and very interested in the outcome so please be
sure
to share what you find and fix. I have never seen this on SM 53's I have
sold that have been all the way around the world. Has anybody else
experienced this? The Amel gooseneck is the simplest and strongest
approach
to this component I have ever seen.



All the best,

Joel





Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC

Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas

Mailing Address: 401 East Las Olas Boulevard #130-126

Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301

Phone: (954) 462-5869 Cell: (954) 812-2485

Email: jfpottercys@...





From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...
] On Behalf Of Mark
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2013 6:12 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel] loose gooseneck





I had a rigger come by today to do an annual rigging check. He though the
booms on both the main and mizzen wobbled too much. He believes the
gooseneck has worn to become somewhat loose. He recommends drilling out
the
hole and inserting bushings to reduce/eliminate the wobble.

Does anyone have any thoughts on this (Joel...)? Is this an Amel-ism that
should be left as-is? Or it something that should be fixed? Has anyone had
this operation done?

Thanks in advance!

best, Mark
SM2K 331





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] loose gooseneck

amelforme
 

Hi Mark and thanks for bringing it to my attention that I used to own your
boat! I must be slippin'.



The suggested repair troubles me on several levels.



First, I was told by Amel that the gooseneck is "heat treated" solid
aluminum and should "last forever". Oh well. Even if done very carefully
using cutting/cooling lubricants, the heat generated by drilling this
component would all but surely weaken it.



Second, placing a steel sleeve inside an aluminum component and then running
a stainless steel bolt through the whole thing sounds more like a newfangled
high tech battery than anything else. All joking aside, you will surely find
extreme electrolysis in this assembly as soon as you introduce salt water
into the mix.



I maintain that these goosenecks should be replaced. If you have one made
locally, be sure to have the machinist test the hardness of the aluminum
block and try to match it. I am hopeful Amel should still have this part or
access to obtaining replacements.



After the entire standing rigging and the mast steps/receivers/compression
assemblies, the goosenecks are the third most dangerous rigging component to
the safety of the vessel and those aboard were they to fail
catastrophically. Be sure. Replace, don't repair.



It really brings a big fat smile to my face to know you are doing well and
enjoying your Amel as you make your way around the world. Thanks.



All the best,

Joel



Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC

Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas

Mailing Address: 401 East Las Olas Boulevard #130-126

Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301

Phone: (954) 462-5869 Cell: (954) 812-2485

Email: jfpottercys@...

www.yachtworld.com/jfpottercys



From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Mark
Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2013 3:44 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel] loose gooseneck





Hi Joel,

Thanks for the prompt reply.

The wiggle appears to be due to looseness in the horizontal bolts that
attach the boom to the aluminum piece at the gooseneck. He is proposing
taking the boom off, removing the aluminum piece, drilling a somewhat larger
hole, and inserting a steel bushing around the bolt to remove the wobble. I
would estimate that each of the booms has about 5-10 degrees of freedom to
rotate (in the axis along the length of the vessel) because of looseness of
the bolt in the aluminum block. Of course, I'm _not_ referring to the two
other freedoms of movement that are obviously intended by using an aluminum
block and two bolts. I'd be happy to send a picture if this isn't clear.

The rigger appears to be knowledgeable and says he has done this kind of
operation before.

The question I have is: whether the wobble should be there? Should I do
anything about it?

As you are aware, SV Northfork was once your SM2K demo vessel. In the
intervening years it has been not once but twice around the world (we are in
Cape Town South Africa about to head across the Atlantic)... so a little
wear between the bolt/aluminum is perhaps understandable :).

best regards, Mark

--- In amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "Joel F Potter" wrote:

Always pay attention to a professional rigger until he proves otherwise.
That said, I have had many of them unfamiliar with aspects of Amel stuff
get
kind of snarky. The dreaded "Not invented here" syndrome.



Mark, what part is loose? If there is "slop" in the aluminum piece that
takes the vertical and horizontal axis bolts, I would replace it rather
than
drill things oversize. If the bolts are worn, well, call the Guinness book
of World Records. Probably the aluminum piece. It is a simple piece of
hard
aluminum that should be easy to duplicate if Amel does not have them in
stock.



I am curious about this and very interested in the outcome so please be
sure
to share what you find and fix. I have never seen this on SM 53's I have
sold that have been all the way around the world. Has anybody else
experienced this? The Amel gooseneck is the simplest and strongest
approach
to this component I have ever seen.



All the best,

Joel





Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC

Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas

Mailing Address: 401 East Las Olas Boulevard #130-126

Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301

Phone: (954) 462-5869 Cell: (954) 812-2485

Email: jfpottercys@...





From: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Mark
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2013 6:12 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [Amel] loose gooseneck





I had a rigger come by today to do an annual rigging check. He though the
booms on both the main and mizzen wobbled too much. He believes the
gooseneck has worn to become somewhat loose. He recommends drilling out
the
hole and inserting bushings to reduce/eliminate the wobble.

Does anyone have any thoughts on this (Joel...)? Is this an Amel-ism that
should be left as-is? Or it something that should be fixed? Has anyone had
this operation done?

Thanks in advance!

best, Mark
SM2K 331







Re: Refit of Too much Interior

Mark Pitt
 

I was aboard "Too Much" and saw the exquisite work that Jean has done. It is really quite remarkable. One has to be aboard on a sunny day to really appreciate his work.

Mark
Sabbatical III, SM #419, Phuket

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Hanspeter" wrote:

Hello

We shoot the 360° picture on board the SY "Too Much" and we can confirm that all the modifications inside the yacht are real. It is the result of 2 month of hard work from Jean Paillardon himself. He is helping us to realise the similar alteration on our Super Maramu at the moment. Picture will be posted soon, work in progress can be seen live in Ao Chalong Bay, Phuket, Thailand ...

Best regards

Nathalie & Hanspeter
SY "Nathape" # 158


Re: [Amel] Maramu access to forward part of engine

Bill Fletcher
 

It is possible to get to the front of the engine if you remove the heat
exchanger but you will need a set of gaskets for the heat exchanger to
reinstall it. I had two alternators and you would have to remove both.

I just replace my Perkins with a Beta Marine 60 as I couldn't get a gasket
set or a heat exchanger repaired or a water pump repaired for the Perkins.

Good Luck

Bill
Maramu 179




On Fri, Jan 18, 2013 at 9:00 PM, Andy <allezaubon@...> wrote:

**


Dear Maramu owners,

We have the original Perkins 4154 engine on our Maramu which has developed
a leak , as far as I can tell from a failed gasket - in the forward part of
the engine.

My question is how to access this area, I can just about squeeze in over
the starboard side but that is it. Is there a better way ??

We're even thinking of cutting an access opening from the forward part of
the internal corridor ( linking saloon to aft cabin) to the engine room.

We are prepapared to lift the engine out to replace gasket and carry out
any other maintenance tasks , do we have to remove the hard dodger to lift
it out ??

The access hatch would remain if we need to access the forward part of the
engine at a later date.

Your thoughts, experience and ideas much appreciated.

Kindest regards

Andy



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Refit of Too much Interior

Ann-Sofie Svanberg <kanalmamman@...>
 

I think it looks just marvelous! But I just wonder doesn't the windows weaken the hull? Since the hull not is constructed for Windows.

When friends of us bought their brand new SM 2k in 2004, they were told, by Amelia, that they could not remove any shelfs or redo anything with the cabinets as they were constructed to stabilize the hull.

How has you solved those to very important issues?

Regards
Annsofie & Jonas
S/Y Lady Annila, SM 232


Skickat från min iPad

19 jan 2013 kl. 15:35 skrev "Hanspeter" <hns154@...>:

Hello

We shoot the 360° picture on board the SY "Too Much" and we can confirm that all the modifications inside the yacht are real. It is the result of 2 month of hard work from Jean Paillardon himself. He is helping us to realise the similar alteration on our Super Maramu at the moment. Picture will be posted soon, work in progress can be seen live in Ao Chalong Bay, Phuket, Thailand ...

Best regards

Nathalie & Hanspeter
SY "Nathape" # 158


Re: Grounding problem? (going with tester in engine room)

ferruccilorenzo <ferruccilorenzo@...>
 

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" wrote:
Also, without knowing what kind of meter and what range you have the meter set at, I think a "few" ohms is reasonable to cover meter error and paint or other non-conductive material where you have connected the tester wires.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Hi, yesterday I took this picture, it might help to understand the extent of the problem.

http://tinypic.com/r/2m2iel3/6

thanks again,


Lorenzo
SM 2K hull n°420 "Red Passion".
Now in Livorno (Mediterranean Sea)


Re: [Amel] Refit of Too much Interior

GrahamJohnston42 <grahamjohnston42@yahoo.com>
 

I should have added , have a look at the view through the portlights.


________________________________
From: Dr. H.-J. Hofschulte <Dr.Hofschulte@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Saturday, 19 January 2013, 8:33
Subject: AW: [Amel] Refit of Too much Interior


 
Photoshop ?

Johanna-Amalthea SM #436

Von: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] Im Auftrag von Sailorman
Gesendet: Mittwoch, 16. Januar 2013 08:01
An: amelyachtowners@...
Betreff: [Amel] Refit of Too much Interior

Wow ,

what an amazing and beautiful job,

I have a few questions.

What are the cut out on either side of the sink for?

What did you do with the dishwasher , and washing machine.

Who did this refit?
Where did you get the matching mahogany.

Just a magnificent job.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

From: amelyachtowners@...

[mailto:amelyachtowners@...
] On Behalf Of jean Paillardon
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2013 9:47 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...

Subject: [Amel] lifting of SM

Hello,
My boat name is "Too Much" (SM #366). I did some alteration inside the boat.

Click on
http://www.nathape.com/res/Marz2012MalaysiaThailand/20120815sytoomuch360.swf
to visit ...

Too Much or not Too Much ?!

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Refit of Too much Interior

GrahamJohnston42 <grahamjohnston42@yahoo.com>
 

Photoshop, indeed I tend to agree.


________________________________
From: Dr. H.-J. Hofschulte <Dr.Hofschulte@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Saturday, 19 January 2013, 8:33
Subject: AW: [Amel] Refit of Too much Interior


 
Photoshop ?

Johanna-Amalthea SM #436

Von: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] Im Auftrag von Sailorman
Gesendet: Mittwoch, 16. Januar 2013 08:01
An: amelyachtowners@...
Betreff: [Amel] Refit of Too much Interior

Wow ,

what an amazing and beautiful job,

I have a few questions.

What are the cut out on either side of the sink for?

What did you do with the dishwasher , and washing machine.

Who did this refit?
Where did you get the matching mahogany.

Just a magnificent job.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

From: amelyachtowners@...

[mailto:amelyachtowners@...
] On Behalf Of jean Paillardon
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2013 9:47 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...

Subject: [Amel] lifting of SM

Hello,
My boat name is "Too Much" (SM #366). I did some alteration inside the boat.

Click on
http://www.nathape.com/res/Marz2012MalaysiaThailand/20120815sytoomuch360.swf
to visit ...

Too Much or not Too Much ?!



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Original Standing Rigging Sizes...Sharki

GrahamJohnston42 <grahamjohnston42@yahoo.com>
 

Hi Mark,
No I did not, I withdrew the bolts and inspected them, they were fine and re-bedded the chainplates.

Regards
Graham


________________________________
From: sharki41 <hannamj@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Saturday, 19 January 2013, 1:42
Subject: Re: [Amel] Original Standing Rigging Sizes...Sharki


 
Thank You Graham.
Mark
PS. Did you replace the chain plates or chain plate mounting bolts when you replaced the rigging?

--- In amelyachtowners@..., Graham Johnston wrote:

Hi Mark,
Main cap shrouds 7mm
Main lowers 7mm
Forestay and backstay 8mm
 
Mizzen, (very oddly) 5.5mm
I used 6mm replacement on the mizzen.
 
I wonder why dyform as the original wire and pin sizes are really well over engineered, perhaps it was to  reduce windage and make her sail faster:-)
 
Regards,
Graham    Sharki No.181


________________________________
From: sharki41
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Friday, 18 January 2013, 6:19
Subject: [Amel] Original Standing Rigging Sizes...Sharki


 

Could someone please tell me what size was the original standing rigging on a Sharki ? My boat was re-rigged by the previous owners with Dyform wire rope. The main shrouds are 7mm and the main forstay and backstay are 8mm. The mizzen is rigged in 6mm Dyform. Norseman fittings are used everywhere.
Thank You.
Mark ( Amel Sharki, No. 49 )




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] loose gooseneck

Mark Hayden
 

Hi Joel,

Thanks for the prompt reply.

The wiggle appears to be due to looseness in the horizontal bolts that attach the boom to the aluminum piece at the gooseneck. He is proposing taking the boom off, removing the aluminum piece, drilling a somewhat larger hole, and inserting a steel bushing around the bolt to remove the wobble. I would estimate that each of the booms has about 5-10 degrees of freedom to rotate (in the axis along the length of the vessel) because of looseness of the bolt in the aluminum block. Of course, I'm _not_ referring to the two other freedoms of movement that are obviously intended by using an aluminum block and two bolts. I'd be happy to send a picture if this isn't clear.

The rigger appears to be knowledgeable and says he has done this kind of operation before.

The question I have is: whether the wobble should be there? Should I do anything about it?

As you are aware, SV Northfork was once your SM2K demo vessel. In the intervening years it has been not once but twice around the world (we are in Cape Town South Africa about to head across the Atlantic)... so a little wear between the bolt/aluminum is perhaps understandable :).

best regards, Mark

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Joel F Potter" wrote:

Always pay attention to a professional rigger until he proves otherwise.
That said, I have had many of them unfamiliar with aspects of Amel stuff get
kind of snarky. The dreaded "Not invented here" syndrome.



Mark, what part is loose? If there is "slop" in the aluminum piece that
takes the vertical and horizontal axis bolts, I would replace it rather than
drill things oversize. If the bolts are worn, well, call the Guinness book
of World Records. Probably the aluminum piece. It is a simple piece of hard
aluminum that should be easy to duplicate if Amel does not have them in
stock.



I am curious about this and very interested in the outcome so please be sure
to share what you find and fix. I have never seen this on SM 53's I have
sold that have been all the way around the world. Has anybody else
experienced this? The Amel gooseneck is the simplest and strongest approach
to this component I have ever seen.



All the best,

Joel





Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC

Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas

Mailing Address: 401 East Las Olas Boulevard #130-126

Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301

Phone: (954) 462-5869 Cell: (954) 812-2485

Email: jfpottercys@...





From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Mark
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2013 6:12 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel] loose gooseneck





I had a rigger come by today to do an annual rigging check. He though the
booms on both the main and mizzen wobbled too much. He believes the
gooseneck has worn to become somewhat loose. He recommends drilling out the
hole and inserting bushings to reduce/eliminate the wobble.

Does anyone have any thoughts on this (Joel...)? Is this an Amel-ism that
should be left as-is? Or it something that should be fixed? Has anyone had
this operation done?

Thanks in advance!

best, Mark
SM2K 331





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Refit of Too much Interior

dr_hofschulte
 

Photoshop ?



Johanna-Amalthea SM #436



Von: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] Im Auftrag von Sailorman
Gesendet: Mittwoch, 16. Januar 2013 08:01
An: amelyachtowners@...
Betreff: [Amel] Refit of Too much Interior





Wow ,

what an amazing and beautiful job,

I have a few questions.

What are the cut out on either side of the sink for?

What did you do with the dishwasher , and washing machine.

Who did this refit?
Where did you get the matching mahogany.

Just a magnificent job.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of jean Paillardon
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2013 9:47 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [Amel] lifting of SM

Hello,
My boat name is "Too Much" (SM #366). I did some alteration inside the boat.

Click on
http://www.nathape.com/res/Marz2012MalaysiaThailand/20120815sytoomuch360.swf
to visit ...

Too Much or not Too Much ?!


Re: Maramu access to forward part of engine

Alejandro Paquin
 

Dear Andy;
You can remove the engine without removing the dodger. We did remove our dodger to do maintenance on the gelcoat etc. We replaced the conpanionway door because for that you do need to remove the dodger.
Removing the engine cover is easy.
If you have access to a winch, or a negative forklift at the dock it will be easy.
We eneded up replacing the engine for a Yanmar
We´ve thought about that door in the corridor. I think you must buy a watertight door from someone like Vetus etc.
Regards,
Alex

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Andy" wrote:

Dear Maramu owners,

We have the original Perkins 4154 engine on our Maramu which has developed a leak , as far as I can tell from a failed gasket - in the forward part of the engine.

My question is how to access this area, I can just about squeeze in over the starboard side but that is it. Is there a better way ??

We're even thinking of cutting an access opening from the forward part of the internal corridor ( linking saloon to aft cabin) to the engine room.

We are prepapared to lift the engine out to replace gasket and carry out any other maintenance tasks , do we have to remove the hard dodger to lift it out ??

The access hatch would remain if we need to access the forward part of the engine at a later date.

Your thoughts, experience and ideas much appreciated.

Kindest regards

Andy


Maramu access to forward part of engine

Andy Croney
 

Dear Maramu owners,

We have the original Perkins 4154 engine on our Maramu which has developed a leak , as far as I can tell from a failed gasket - in the forward part of the engine.

My question is how to access this area, I can just about squeeze in over the starboard side but that is it. Is there a better way ??

We're even thinking of cutting an access opening from the forward part of the internal corridor ( linking saloon to aft cabin) to the engine room.

We are prepapared to lift the engine out to replace gasket and carry out any other maintenance tasks , do we have to remove the hard dodger to lift it out ??

The access hatch would remain if we need to access the forward part of the engine at a later date.

Your thoughts, experience and ideas much appreciated.

Kindest regards

Andy


Re: [Amel] Original Standing Rigging Sizes...Sharki

marksharki
 

Thank You Graham.
Mark
PS. Did you replace the chain plates or chain plate mounting bolts when you replaced the rigging?

--- In amelyachtowners@..., Graham Johnston wrote:

Hi Mark,
Main cap shrouds 7mm
Main lowers 7mm
Forestay and backstay 8mm
 
Mizzen, (very oddly) 5.5mm
I used 6mm replacement on the mizzen.
 
I wonder why dyform as the original wire and pin sizes are really well over engineered, perhaps it was to  reduce windage and make her sail faster:-)
 
Regards,
Graham    Sharki No.181


________________________________
From: sharki41
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Friday, 18 January 2013, 6:19
Subject: [Amel] Original Standing Rigging Sizes...Sharki


 

Could someone please tell me what size was the original standing rigging on a Sharki ? My boat was re-rigged by the previous owners with Dyform wire rope. The main shrouds are 7mm and the main forstay and backstay are 8mm. The mizzen is rigged in 6mm Dyform. Norseman fittings are used everywhere.
Thank You.
Mark ( Amel Sharki, No. 49 )




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Re: [Amel] loose gooseneck

amelforme
 

Always pay attention to a professional rigger until he proves otherwise.
That said, I have had many of them unfamiliar with aspects of Amel stuff get
kind of snarky. The dreaded "Not invented here" syndrome.



Mark, what part is loose? If there is "slop" in the aluminum piece that
takes the vertical and horizontal axis bolts, I would replace it rather than
drill things oversize. If the bolts are worn, well, call the Guinness book
of World Records. Probably the aluminum piece. It is a simple piece of hard
aluminum that should be easy to duplicate if Amel does not have them in
stock.



I am curious about this and very interested in the outcome so please be sure
to share what you find and fix. I have never seen this on SM 53's I have
sold that have been all the way around the world. Has anybody else
experienced this? The Amel gooseneck is the simplest and strongest approach
to this component I have ever seen.



All the best,

Joel





Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC

Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas

Mailing Address: 401 East Las Olas Boulevard #130-126

Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301

Phone: (954) 462-5869 Cell: (954) 812-2485

Email: jfpottercys@...





From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Mark
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2013 6:12 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel] loose gooseneck





I had a rigger come by today to do an annual rigging check. He though the
booms on both the main and mizzen wobbled too much. He believes the
gooseneck has worn to become somewhat loose. He recommends drilling out the
hole and inserting bushings to reduce/eliminate the wobble.

Does anyone have any thoughts on this (Joel...)? Is this an Amel-ism that
should be left as-is? Or it something that should be fixed? Has anyone had
this operation done?

Thanks in advance!

best, Mark
SM2K 331


loose gooseneck

Mark Hayden
 

I had a rigger come by today to do an annual rigging check. He though the booms on both the main and mizzen wobbled too much. He believes the gooseneck has worn to become somewhat loose. He recommends drilling out the hole and inserting bushings to reduce/eliminate the wobble.

Does anyone have any thoughts on this (Joel...)? Is this an Amel-ism that should be left as-is? Or it something that should be fixed? Has anyone had this operation done?

Thanks in advance!

best, Mark
SM2K 331


Re: New sails for supermaramu 2k

Mark Hayden
 

I'll second Miles. In 2011 I was in Fiji realized it was time for new sails. I contacted Doyle in Auckland and they got the design and made new sails (genoa, main, mizzen, and ballooner) without coming near the boat. They have been great for about 10k nm of sailing.

The only issue was that the bolt ropes didn't extend all the way to the foot of the sails as I believe they did on the original, which causes the foot of the ballooner to flap a little.

regards, Mark
SM2K 331

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Miles Bidwell" wrote:

Six years ago I bought a set of sail from Gateff Sails in Toulon, France
(Sails Gateff is now part of Doyle Sails). Gateff makes the sails as large
as is physically possible-significantly larger than the factory
specifications. He used Hydra Net sail material which he said was the best.
(You can find out about this material on the internet.)

After a transatlantic and more, the sails look like new with absolutely no
sign of any stretching, the light air performance of the boat is
much improved, and it tacks through a smaller angle. If anyone is
interested, when Doyle bought Sails Gateff, Doyle acquired the computer
programs that run the sail cutting machine so they should be able to
duplicate the size and shape of these sails. The sails are all radial cut
and the shape of the jib can only be described as being beautiful.

Regards,

Miles (SM 216 Ladybug), now on the hard in Newport, RI



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Re: [Amel] Original Standing Rigging Sizes...Sharki

GrahamJohnston42 <grahamjohnston42@yahoo.com>
 

Hi Mark,
Main cap shrouds 7mm
Main lowers 7mm
Forestay and backstay 8mm
 
Mizzen, (very oddly) 5.5mm
I used 6mm replacement on the mizzen.
 
I wonder why dyform as the original wire and pin sizes are really well over engineered, perhaps it was to  reduce windage and make her sail faster:-)
 
Regards,
Graham    Sharki No.181


________________________________
From: sharki41 <hannamj@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Friday, 18 January 2013, 6:19
Subject: [Amel] Original Standing Rigging Sizes...Sharki


 

Could someone please tell me what size was the original standing rigging on a Sharki ? My boat was re-rigged by the previous owners with Dyform wire rope. The main shrouds are 7mm and the main forstay and backstay are 8mm. The mizzen is rigged in 6mm Dyform. Norseman fittings are used everywhere.
Thank You.
Mark ( Amel Sharki, No. 49 )




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Original Standing Rigging Sizes...Sharki

marksharki
 

Could someone please tell me what size was the original standing rigging on a Sharki ? My boat was re-rigged by the previous owners with Dyform wire rope. The main shrouds are 7mm and the main forstay and backstay are 8mm. The mizzen is rigged in 6mm Dyform. Norseman fittings are used everywhere.
Thank You.
Mark ( Amel Sharki, No. 49 )