Date   

Re: [Amel] Re: Vinyl headliner

karkauai
 

Wow, John. That's quite a professional looking job. I am impressed with your craftsmanship... And with your patience. Fortunately I do not have a problem yet, but if I do, I know how to get the job done. Thank you for posting such a thorough explanation of how you managed to job.
Kent
SM243
KRISTY
On Jan 21, 2013, at 6:10 PM, "jjjk12s" <jjjk12s@yahoo.com> wrote:

Alex and Kent,

A description of how I did it is on post 12239.

The hull was pretty smooth but I used a grinder and face-off disk very sparingly to remove a couple of dimples in the deckhead fibreglass. The felt backing obscures the rest of the uneveness such as where the bulheads are fibreglassed in.

I couldn't find felt backed vinyl so made my own. I used polyester fleece material. It is available from fabric shops in various qualities and thicknesses. If you can buy felt backed well done. Suppliers round here only could get foam backed.

I did the gluing in two stages. First I used a heat resistant water based contact adhesive (Seleys Advanced) to glue on the felt. The key thing is that because the felt is porous the glue can be liberally applied by brush to the surface only and the felt stuck to it. The work time is enough to move the felt around to get it smooth and no toxic vapours or clean-up issues. This gives a smooth, clean and cushioned surface for the vinyl to glue on to. The second stage of gluing was to glue the vinyl to the felt. I used 3M spray auto trim adhesive. Also reasonoably easy to use if you do one bit at a time. The adhesive is a major part of the cost.

I did not remove the wood around the windows. I later on replaced the windows and see that there are countersunk screws holding that wood on. You can access them when the windows are removed but not sure if the wood is also held with glue. I used a tucking tool to tuck the vinyl under the edge of the wood. When I glued on the felt I left enough gap to do this but still tricky. It may be better to remove the wooden panels if it can be done without damaging them. Around the top the vinyl tucks behind the curtain track. I used a thin bead of off-white sealant in some places where the vinyl could not be tucked in. The area around the door to the aft cabin is probably the trickiest. I also have a canvas sewing machine so could do the sewed edges needed on some of the vinyl.

There may be an easier way to do it as this method involves gluing twice but I am pleased with the results. I would certianly not reglue up new foam backed vinyl and would not glue uncushioned vinyl directly to the fibreglass. There are other possibilities though such as panels.

John Maramu #91 Popeye

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Alex" wrote:

John:
What kind of vinyl did you use?
Does it have a cushion backing? If not did you have any trouble with irregularities in the surface of the fiberglass showing through?
Did you remove the boards surrounding the side port lights to install the new material?
What adhesive did you use for the job?

Regards,
Alex
Maramu #94

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "jjjk12s" wrote:

I have put up a couple of pictures of our new vinyl headliner in Popeye's photo folder. It is the same texture as original but off-white.

John, #91 Maramu, Popeye

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Vinyl headliner

Alejandro Paquin
 

John;
Many thanks for the detailed explanation, really interesting apporach to this serious problem.
Best regards,
Alex

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "jjjk12s" wrote:

Alex and Kent,

A description of how I did it is on post 12239.

The hull was pretty smooth but I used a grinder and face-off disk very sparingly to remove a couple of dimples in the deckhead fibreglass. The felt backing obscures the rest of the uneveness such as where the bulheads are fibreglassed in.

I couldn't find felt backed vinyl so made my own. I used polyester fleece material. It is available from fabric shops in various qualities and thicknesses. If you can buy felt backed well done. Suppliers round here only could get foam backed.

I did the gluing in two stages. First I used a heat resistant water based contact adhesive (Seleys Advanced) to glue on the felt. The key thing is that because the felt is porous the glue can be liberally applied by brush to the surface only and the felt stuck to it. The work time is enough to move the felt around to get it smooth and no toxic vapours or clean-up issues. This gives a smooth, clean and cushioned surface for the vinyl to glue on to. The second stage of gluing was to glue the vinyl to the felt. I used 3M spray auto trim adhesive. Also reasonoably easy to use if you do one bit at a time. The adhesive is a major part of the cost.

I did not remove the wood around the windows. I later on replaced the windows and see that there are countersunk screws holding that wood on. You can access them when the windows are removed but not sure if the wood is also held with glue. I used a tucking tool to tuck the vinyl under the edge of the wood. When I glued on the felt I left enough gap to do this but still tricky. It may be better to remove the wooden panels if it can be done without damaging them. Around the top the vinyl tucks behind the curtain track. I used a thin bead of off-white sealant in some places where the vinyl could not be tucked in. The area around the door to the aft cabin is probably the trickiest. I also have a canvas sewing machine so could do the sewed edges needed on some of the vinyl.

There may be an easier way to do it as this method involves gluing twice but I am pleased with the results. I would certianly not reglue up new foam backed vinyl and would not glue uncushioned vinyl directly to the fibreglass. There are other possibilities though such as panels.

John Maramu #91 Popeye


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Alex" wrote:

John:
What kind of vinyl did you use?
Does it have a cushion backing? If not did you have any trouble with irregularities in the surface of the fiberglass showing through?
Did you remove the boards surrounding the side port lights to install the new material?
What adhesive did you use for the job?

Regards,
Alex
Maramu #94

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "jjjk12s" wrote:

I have put up a couple of pictures of our new vinyl headliner in Popeye's photo folder. It is the same texture as original but off-white.

John, #91 Maramu, Popeye


Re: Vinyl headliner

jjjk12s <jjjk12s@...>
 

Alex and Kent,

A description of how I did it is on post 12239.

The hull was pretty smooth but I used a grinder and face-off disk very sparingly to remove a couple of dimples in the deckhead fibreglass. The felt backing obscures the rest of the uneveness such as where the bulheads are fibreglassed in.

I couldn't find felt backed vinyl so made my own. I used polyester fleece material. It is available from fabric shops in various qualities and thicknesses. If you can buy felt backed well done. Suppliers round here only could get foam backed.

I did the gluing in two stages. First I used a heat resistant water based contact adhesive (Seleys Advanced) to glue on the felt. The key thing is that because the felt is porous the glue can be liberally applied by brush to the surface only and the felt stuck to it. The work time is enough to move the felt around to get it smooth and no toxic vapours or clean-up issues. This gives a smooth, clean and cushioned surface for the vinyl to glue on to. The second stage of gluing was to glue the vinyl to the felt. I used 3M spray auto trim adhesive. Also reasonoably easy to use if you do one bit at a time. The adhesive is a major part of the cost.

I did not remove the wood around the windows. I later on replaced the windows and see that there are countersunk screws holding that wood on. You can access them when the windows are removed but not sure if the wood is also held with glue. I used a tucking tool to tuck the vinyl under the edge of the wood. When I glued on the felt I left enough gap to do this but still tricky. It may be better to remove the wooden panels if it can be done without damaging them. Around the top the vinyl tucks behind the curtain track. I used a thin bead of off-white sealant in some places where the vinyl could not be tucked in. The area around the door to the aft cabin is probably the trickiest. I also have a canvas sewing machine so could do the sewed edges needed on some of the vinyl.

There may be an easier way to do it as this method involves gluing twice but I am pleased with the results. I would certianly not reglue up new foam backed vinyl and would not glue uncushioned vinyl directly to the fibreglass. There are other possibilities though such as panels.

John Maramu #91 Popeye

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Alex" wrote:

John:
What kind of vinyl did you use?
Does it have a cushion backing? If not did you have any trouble with irregularities in the surface of the fiberglass showing through?
Did you remove the boards surrounding the side port lights to install the new material?
What adhesive did you use for the job?

Regards,
Alex
Maramu #94

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "jjjk12s" wrote:

I have put up a couple of pictures of our new vinyl headliner in Popeye's photo folder. It is the same texture as original but off-white.

John, #91 Maramu, Popeye


Re: [Amel] Refit of Too much Interior

Steve Constantine <svsummerlove@...>
 

Good eye guys.

Also, take a gander at the cabinet work above the stove.  Unless the camera has selective double vision, there are double cabinet doors, AC receptacles, cutting boards, open port glass, etc.  Besides, who in their right mind chooses to take the first 360 degree photos of their new interior retrofit, using unsecured posed objects all over the place, while underway in a seaway? 

This has all the characteristics of a Super Maramu interior, overlaid with some shots of a 54'.  Nice try Jean!  ;-)

Steve
s/v Summer Love
SM340
Currently in Grenada


________________________________
From: Graham Johnston <grahamjohnston42@yahoo.com>
To: "amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2013 5:23 AM
Subject: Re: AW: [Amel] Refit of Too much Interior


 
I should have added , have a look at the view through the portlights.

________________________________
From: Dr. H.-J. Hofschulte Dr.Hofschulte@t-online.de>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, 19 January 2013, 8:33
Subject: AW: [Amel] Refit of Too much Interior


 
Photoshop ?

Johanna-Amalthea SM #436

Von: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] Im Auftrag von Sailorman
Gesendet: Mittwoch, 16. Januar 2013 08:01
An: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Betreff: [Amel] Refit of Too much Interior

Wow ,

what an amazing and beautiful job,

I have a few questions.

What are the cut out on either side of the sink for?

What did you do with the dishwasher , and washing machine.

Who did this refit?
Where did you get the matching mahogany.

Just a magnificent job.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com

[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
] On Behalf Of jean Paillardon
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2013 9:47 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com

Subject: [Amel] lifting of SM

Hello,
My boat name is "Too Much" (SM #366). I did some alteration inside the boat.

Click on
http://www.nathape.com/res/Marz2012MalaysiaThailand/20120815sytoomuch360.swf
to visit ...

Too Much or not Too Much ?!



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Engine room ventilation SM2000 2001

Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
 

On hull 387 there is a 230 volt fan located above the generator. This fan automatically energizes when the generator is running. On 387, the output of this fan is less than the output of the 12 volt Yanmar ventilation fan.

We installed a 24VDC fan which blows on the HP 160 liter water maker pump when the water maker is turned ON.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, svperegrinus wrote:

Actually, full explanations are in the manual, including the fact the Yanmar does get air blown into the engine room, whereas the Onan Cummins has to do with air naturally aspirated into the room.



--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, svperegrinus wrote:

Hello,

Testing engine room ventilation today with shore power unplugged, I found the following:

1/ Main Yanmar engine ON, Onan Cummins Generator OFF:
(a) A blower pumps air from somewhere port side and ends in a gray PVC tube that blows air into the transmission area of the Yanmar engine
(b) An exhaust air pump pushes air out of the engine room via the air exhaust outlet port side that sits outboard of the winches

2/ Onan Cummins Generator ON, Main Yanmar OFF:
(a) The blower remains OFF. No airflow from the gray PVC tube
(b) The exhaust air pump pushes air out of the engine room via the air exhaust outlet port side that sits outboard of the winches

Questions:

i. Why the difference? does yours also work differently depending on which engine is being used?

ii. Under scenario 2/ above, there is a decent air volume coming out of the exhaust outlet port... but where is the air feeding into the room? Air cannot be pushed out unless it is being fed somewhere!

Thank you in advance for your comments,


F + O
s/v Peregrinus
#350, November 2001


Re: Vinyl headliner

Alejandro Paquin
 

John:
What kind of vinyl did you use?
Does it have a cushion backing? If not did you have any trouble with irregularities in the surface of the fiberglass showing through?
Did you remove the boards surrounding the side port lights to install the new material?
What adhesive did you use for the job?

Regards,
Alex
Maramu #94

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "jjjk12s" wrote:

I have put up a couple of pictures of our new vinyl headliner in Popeye's photo folder. It is the same texture as original but off-white.

John, #91 Maramu, Popeye


Re: Engine room ventilation SM2000 2001

svperegrinus <no_reply@...>
 

Actually, full explanations are in the manual, including the fact the Yanmar does get air blown into the engine room, whereas the Onan Cummins has to do with air naturally aspirated into the room.

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, svperegrinus wrote:

Hello,

Testing engine room ventilation today with shore power unplugged, I found the following:

1/ Main Yanmar engine ON, Onan Cummins Generator OFF:
(a) A blower pumps air from somewhere port side and ends in a gray PVC tube that blows air into the transmission area of the Yanmar engine
(b) An exhaust air pump pushes air out of the engine room via the air exhaust outlet port side that sits outboard of the winches

2/ Onan Cummins Generator ON, Main Yanmar OFF:
(a) The blower remains OFF. No airflow from the gray PVC tube
(b) The exhaust air pump pushes air out of the engine room via the air exhaust outlet port side that sits outboard of the winches

Questions:

i. Why the difference? does yours also work differently depending on which engine is being used?

ii. Under scenario 2/ above, there is a decent air volume coming out of the exhaust outlet port... but where is the air feeding into the room? Air cannot be pushed out unless it is being fed somewhere!

Thank you in advance for your comments,


F + O
s/v Peregrinus
#350, November 2001


Re: Refit of Too much Interior

svperegrinus <no_reply@...>
 

"Miles Bidwell" wrote:

I bought my boat new in 1998 and watched the factory build it. All of the
cabinets and shelves were part of a hull stiffening system and were part of
the hull grid.

Yes; however: since the cuts on the furniture on "Too Much" seem limited to the preexisting apertures in the furniture grid formerly occupied by the microwave, the sound amplifier, the TV, and the outboard end of the port bookshelf, and assuming any of the limited cuts into the furniture grid surrounding those spaces were compensated by replacement stiffeners holding the rest of the furniture grid... where is the loss of hull stiffening?

Having said that, we will not be undertaking a similar renovation.

One thing we did like is the sliding doors above the kitchen sink. Nice way of hiding the clutter. It would be nice to learn further about how that was done.

F+O
#350


Re: [Amel] Vinyl headliner

karkauai
 

That's a really professional looking job, John.  Did you do the work yourself?  What kind of adhesive did you use?
Kent
SM 243
Kristy
Currently Brunswick, GA


________________________________
From: jjjk12s <jjjk12s@yahoo.com>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, January 21, 2013 12:18 AM
Subject: [Amel] Vinyl headliner

 
I have put up a couple of pictures of our new vinyl headliner in Popeye's photo folder. It is the same texture as original but off-white.

John, #91 Maramu, Popeye




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Port light / window eplacement on Amel Sharki

jjjk12s <jjjk12s@...>
 

A couple of tips on window replacement...not a complete guide...

I have redone mine on my Maramu but think it is basically the same. I think my windows were original but can't be positive.

Some of the fasteners are screws and some are through-bolts. It is straightforward to carefully remove the timber trim strips that are nailed on the inside of the windows to access the nuts. The screws may not all be the same length so note where they go. Also the bolts are cut flush with the nuts so they don't foul the timber trim. Likewise try to note where they go otherwise some may end up too long and some too short when you put it all back together.

Use the old windows as templates and easiest to get copies made at a prespex/acrylic supplier rather than cut yourself. Hopefully the supplier can also paint the blankened patches as on the original. It was easy to get mine off without breaking them. It appeared two different sorts of sealant had been used. It is hard to tell but a strong one seems to have been used at the ends where the window buts against a portlight or other window, but less strong sealant elswhere which seemed to be normal silicon sealant. Whatever the reason some of the sealant was black and much harder to remove. Acrylic can expand a lot in the sun so my guess is the stronger sealant was used to stop movement at that location.

To cope with the expansion have the holes drilled oversize, (should match the original) otherwise the perspex may crack at the holes. I drilled my own holes but you have to use a blunt drill bit or use a grinder to flatten the cutting edge of a new bit. If you use a new sharp bit it can "bite" and crack the window when the holes are near the edge. Also use a washer between the perspex and the hull on each fastening to ensure enough thickness of sealant to allow for the shearing effect caused by thermal expansion and contraction. Washers will be there on the original installation.

The thickness of my windows was slightly less than 10mm. I could only replace with 10mm so had to renew some of the fastenings. It's easiest if the new stuff is exactly the same thickness as old.

There is plenty of info on the internet about sealant. A few different brands offer sealant specifically for acrylic. Best to take some advice from your acrylic supplier. However, modern boat windows are often just glued on without fasteners and the sealant is designed for this ie super strong. This is the stuff that needs to be used when replacing the perspex in hatches. With the Amel's stainless steel trim and fasteners the stength of the sealant is not as important. The windows will not fall out! However, the shear strength (modulus?)is very important as the length of the windows means there can be a lot of movement caused by thermal expansion. Not sure about Butyl tape. I have read about it but not seen it used and wouldn't be confident it would not run with sun and tinted windows that get hot.

When installing get an extra pair of hands to help, use masking tape, patience and Isopropyl alcohol as solvent (if you have difficulty finding some try a cleaning supplies company). Abrade the edge of the perspex where the sealant will grip and wipe with isopropyl alcohol to remove any dust and properly clean and prepare the hull likewise. A google search will come up with more advice about fitting the windows without getting sealant everywhere....

Obviously check there are no leaks when it's finished.

John #91 Maramu Popeye

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Gene" wrote:


Good day all,

Has any one attempted to replace the fixed port lights / windows on the Amell Sharki

What issues did you have what type of sealant or gasket did you use.

Thanks in advance for any information.


Vinyl headliner

jjjk12s <jjjk12s@...>
 

I have put up a couple of pictures of our new vinyl headliner in Popeye's photo folder. It is the same texture as original but off-white.

John, #91 Maramu, Popeye


Re: Refit of Too much Interior

Dave_Benjamin
 

John,

I would not want to add any openings below the level of the deck. It's not the splashing that concerns me. It's the thought of having one of those ports fail completely.

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "jjjk12s" wrote:

It looks beautiful but I am surprised water doesn't splash in if the portlights are open in those conditions.

John, Maramu #91 Popeye


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "sabbatical3" wrote:


I was aboard "Too Much" and saw the exquisite work that Jean has done. It is really quite remarkable. One has to be aboard on a sunny day to really appreciate his work.

Mark
Sabbatical III, SM #419, Phuket
--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Hanspeter" wrote:

Hello

We shoot the 360° picture on board the SY "Too Much" and we can confirm that all the modifications inside the yacht are real. It is the result of 2 month of hard work from Jean Paillardon himself. He is helping us to realise the similar alteration on our Super Maramu at the moment. Picture will be posted soon, work in progress can be seen live in Ao Chalong Bay, Phuket, Thailand ...

Best regards

Nathalie & Hanspeter
SY "Nathape" # 158


Re: Maramu access to forward part of engine

Andy Croney
 

Thanks For your feedback Alex and Bill,

Here in Hong Kong we still have many motor junks and fishing boats with old Perkins engine's so parts are not such a problem, if we can give it a new lease of life we would prefer to keep the
Perkins, as the saying goes " they don't make them like they used to "

Hope to start work on it next week , fingers crossed.

Thanks again for your thoughts, much appreciated.

Fair winds

Andy


Re: Refit of Too much Interior

Miles Bidwell <mbidwell@...>
 

It looks good, but

I bought my boat new in 1998 and watched the factory build it. All of the
cabinets and shelves were part of a hull stiffening system and were part of
the hull grid. Did you do any studies or talk to Amel about the effects of
taking out the shelves and cutting the holes for the windows? In hurricane
Mitch, my Amel did not flex and not a drop of water came in even when the
boat was largely submerged under a breaking wave. I wonder if it would have
been as rigid with more windows and less shelves.



Regards,



Miles (SM 216 Ladybug)


Re: lifting of SM

jean <jean.paillardon@...>
 

Sorry for the delay of my answer.

I finish the transformation on the boat Nathape (SM #158, will answer in detail and post exhaustive pictures. Thanks a lot for your interest.

Jean Paillardon
SY "Too Much" SM #366 4xW .... 4 windows :-)

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, jean Paillardon wrote:

Hello,
My boat name is "Too Much" (SM #366). I did some alteration inside the boat.

Click on http://www.nathape.com/res/Marz2012MalaysiaThailand/20120815sytoomuch360.swf to visit ...

Too Much or not Too Much ?!


Re: [Amel] loose gooseneck

Stephen Hancock
 

Try plastic sleeve.
 
Hi Mark and thanks for bringing it to my attention that I used to own your
boat! I must be slippin'.

The suggested repair troubles me on several levels.

First, I was told by Amel that the gooseneck is "heat treated" solid
aluminum and should "last forever". Oh well. Even if done very carefully
using cutting/cooling lubricants, the heat generated by drilling this
component would all but surely weaken it.

Second, placing a steel sleeve inside an aluminum component and then running
a stainless steel bolt through the whole thing sounds more like a newfangled
high tech battery than anything else. All joking aside, you will surely find
extreme electrolysis in this assembly as soon as you introduce salt water
into the mix.

I maintain that these goosenecks should be replaced. If you have one made
locally, be sure to have the machinist test the hardness of the aluminum
block and try to match it. I am hopeful Amel should still have this part or
access to obtaining replacements.

After the entire standing rigging and the mast steps/receivers/compression
assemblies, the goosenecks are the third most dangerous rigging component to
the safety of the vessel and those aboard were they to fail
catastrophically. Be sure. Replace, don't repair.

It really brings a big fat smile to my face to know you are doing well and
enjoying your Amel as you make your way around the world. Thanks.

All the best,

Joel

Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC

Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas

Mailing Address: 401 East Las Olas Boulevard #130-126

Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301

Phone: (954) 462-5869 Cell: (954) 812-2485

Email: mailto:jfpottercys%40att.net

www.yachtworld.com/jfpottercys

From: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
[mailto:mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Mark
Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2013 3:44 AM
To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel] loose gooseneck

Hi Joel,

Thanks for the prompt reply.

The wiggle appears to be due to looseness in the horizontal bolts that
attach the boom to the aluminum piece at the gooseneck. He is proposing
taking the boom off, removing the aluminum piece, drilling a somewhat larger
hole, and inserting a steel bushing around the bolt to remove the wobble. I
would estimate that each of the booms has about 5-10 degrees of freedom to
rotate (in the axis along the length of the vessel) because of looseness of
the bolt in the aluminum block. Of course, I'm _not_ referring to the two
other freedoms of movement that are obviously intended by using an aluminum
block and two bolts. I'd be happy to send a picture if this isn't clear.

The rigger appears to be knowledgeable and says he has done this kind of
operation before.

The question I have is: whether the wobble should be there? Should I do
anything about it?

As you are aware, SV Northfork was once your SM2K demo vessel. In the
intervening years it has been not once but twice around the world (we are in
Cape Town South Africa about to head across the Atlantic)... so a little
wear between the bolt/aluminum is perhaps understandable :).

best regards, Mark

--- In mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
, "Joel F Potter" wrote:

Always pay attention to a professional rigger until he proves otherwise.
That said, I have had many of them unfamiliar with aspects of Amel stuff
get
kind of snarky. The dreaded "Not invented here" syndrome.



Mark, what part is loose? If there is "slop" in the aluminum piece that
takes the vertical and horizontal axis bolts, I would replace it rather
than
drill things oversize. If the bolts are worn, well, call the Guinness book
of World Records. Probably the aluminum piece. It is a simple piece of
hard
aluminum that should be easy to duplicate if Amel does not have them in
stock.



I am curious about this and very interested in the outcome so please be
sure
to share what you find and fix. I have never seen this on SM 53's I have
sold that have been all the way around the world. Has anybody else
experienced this? The Amel gooseneck is the simplest and strongest
approach
to this component I have ever seen.



All the best,

Joel





Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC

Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas

Mailing Address: 401 East Las Olas Boulevard #130-126

Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301

Phone: (954) 462-5869 Cell: (954) 812-2485

Email: jfpottercys@...





From: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
[mailto:mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
] On Behalf Of Mark
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2013 6:12 AM
To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] loose gooseneck





I had a rigger come by today to do an annual rigging check. He though the
booms on both the main and mizzen wobbled too much. He believes the
gooseneck has worn to become somewhat loose. He recommends drilling out
the
hole and inserting bushings to reduce/eliminate the wobble.

Does anyone have any thoughts on this (Joel...)? Is this an Amel-ism that
should be left as-is? Or it something that should be fixed? Has anyone had
this operation done?

Thanks in advance!

best, Mark
SM2K 331






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Refit of Too much Interior

jjjk12s <jjjk12s@...>
 

It looks beautiful but I am surprised water doesn't splash in if the portlights are open in those conditions.

John, Maramu #91 Popeye

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "sabbatical3" wrote:


I was aboard "Too Much" and saw the exquisite work that Jean has done. It is really quite remarkable. One has to be aboard on a sunny day to really appreciate his work.

Mark
Sabbatical III, SM #419, Phuket
--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Hanspeter" wrote:

Hello

We shoot the 360° picture on board the SY "Too Much" and we can confirm that all the modifications inside the yacht are real. It is the result of 2 month of hard work from Jean Paillardon himself. He is helping us to realise the similar alteration on our Super Maramu at the moment. Picture will be posted soon, work in progress can be seen live in Ao Chalong Bay, Phuket, Thailand ...

Best regards

Nathalie & Hanspeter
SY "Nathape" # 158


Re: [Amel] loose gooseneck

Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

Hi all if you can not find a shop to make a new gooseneck then in line with Joels comment I'd sleeve it with a nylon bushing and. Lube the bolt with silicon grease. That way you get a good non metallic solution for the time being. By the way at one time there was a nylon bushing in that assembly. Most likely long worn out.

Regards

Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

On Jan 19, 2013, at 11:46, "Joel F Potter" <jfpottercys@att.net> wrote:

Hi Mark and thanks for bringing it to my attention that I used to own your
boat! I must be slippin'.

The suggested repair troubles me on several levels.

First, I was told by Amel that the gooseneck is "heat treated" solid
aluminum and should "last forever". Oh well. Even if done very carefully
using cutting/cooling lubricants, the heat generated by drilling this
component would all but surely weaken it.

Second, placing a steel sleeve inside an aluminum component and then running
a stainless steel bolt through the whole thing sounds more like a newfangled
high tech battery than anything else. All joking aside, you will surely find
extreme electrolysis in this assembly as soon as you introduce salt water
into the mix.

I maintain that these goosenecks should be replaced. If you have one made
locally, be sure to have the machinist test the hardness of the aluminum
block and try to match it. I am hopeful Amel should still have this part or
access to obtaining replacements.

After the entire standing rigging and the mast steps/receivers/compression
assemblies, the goosenecks are the third most dangerous rigging component to
the safety of the vessel and those aboard were they to fail
catastrophically. Be sure. Replace, don't repair.

It really brings a big fat smile to my face to know you are doing well and
enjoying your Amel as you make your way around the world. Thanks.

All the best,

Joel

Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC

Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas

Mailing Address: 401 East Las Olas Boulevard #130-126

Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301

Phone: (954) 462-5869 Cell: (954) 812-2485

Email: jfpottercys@att.net

www.yachtworld.com/jfpottercys

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Mark
Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2013 3:44 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel] loose gooseneck

Hi Joel,

Thanks for the prompt reply.

The wiggle appears to be due to looseness in the horizontal bolts that
attach the boom to the aluminum piece at the gooseneck. He is proposing
taking the boom off, removing the aluminum piece, drilling a somewhat larger
hole, and inserting a steel bushing around the bolt to remove the wobble. I
would estimate that each of the booms has about 5-10 degrees of freedom to
rotate (in the axis along the length of the vessel) because of looseness of
the bolt in the aluminum block. Of course, I'm _not_ referring to the two
other freedoms of movement that are obviously intended by using an aluminum
block and two bolts. I'd be happy to send a picture if this isn't clear.

The rigger appears to be knowledgeable and says he has done this kind of
operation before.

The question I have is: whether the wobble should be there? Should I do
anything about it?

As you are aware, SV Northfork was once your SM2K demo vessel. In the
intervening years it has been not once but twice around the world (we are in
Cape Town South Africa about to head across the Atlantic)... so a little
wear between the bolt/aluminum is perhaps understandable :).

best regards, Mark

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
, "Joel F Potter" wrote:

Always pay attention to a professional rigger until he proves otherwise.
That said, I have had many of them unfamiliar with aspects of Amel stuff
get
kind of snarky. The dreaded "Not invented here" syndrome.



Mark, what part is loose? If there is "slop" in the aluminum piece that
takes the vertical and horizontal axis bolts, I would replace it rather
than
drill things oversize. If the bolts are worn, well, call the Guinness book
of World Records. Probably the aluminum piece. It is a simple piece of
hard
aluminum that should be easy to duplicate if Amel does not have them in
stock.



I am curious about this and very interested in the outcome so please be
sure
to share what you find and fix. I have never seen this on SM 53's I have
sold that have been all the way around the world. Has anybody else
experienced this? The Amel gooseneck is the simplest and strongest
approach
to this component I have ever seen.



All the best,

Joel





Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC

Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas

Mailing Address: 401 East Las Olas Boulevard #130-126

Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301

Phone: (954) 462-5869 Cell: (954) 812-2485

Email: jfpottercys@...





From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
] On Behalf Of Mark
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2013 6:12 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] loose gooseneck





I had a rigger come by today to do an annual rigging check. He though the
booms on both the main and mizzen wobbled too much. He believes the
gooseneck has worn to become somewhat loose. He recommends drilling out
the
hole and inserting bushings to reduce/eliminate the wobble.

Does anyone have any thoughts on this (Joel...)? Is this an Amel-ism that
should be left as-is? Or it something that should be fixed? Has anyone had
this operation done?

Thanks in advance!

best, Mark
SM2K 331





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] loose gooseneck

amelforme
 

Hi Mark and thanks for bringing it to my attention that I used to own your
boat! I must be slippin'.



The suggested repair troubles me on several levels.



First, I was told by Amel that the gooseneck is "heat treated" solid
aluminum and should "last forever". Oh well. Even if done very carefully
using cutting/cooling lubricants, the heat generated by drilling this
component would all but surely weaken it.



Second, placing a steel sleeve inside an aluminum component and then running
a stainless steel bolt through the whole thing sounds more like a newfangled
high tech battery than anything else. All joking aside, you will surely find
extreme electrolysis in this assembly as soon as you introduce salt water
into the mix.



I maintain that these goosenecks should be replaced. If you have one made
locally, be sure to have the machinist test the hardness of the aluminum
block and try to match it. I am hopeful Amel should still have this part or
access to obtaining replacements.



After the entire standing rigging and the mast steps/receivers/compression
assemblies, the goosenecks are the third most dangerous rigging component to
the safety of the vessel and those aboard were they to fail
catastrophically. Be sure. Replace, don't repair.



It really brings a big fat smile to my face to know you are doing well and
enjoying your Amel as you make your way around the world. Thanks.



All the best,

Joel



Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC

Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas

Mailing Address: 401 East Las Olas Boulevard #130-126

Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301

Phone: (954) 462-5869 Cell: (954) 812-2485

Email: jfpottercys@att.net

www.yachtworld.com/jfpottercys



From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Mark
Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2013 3:44 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel] loose gooseneck





Hi Joel,

Thanks for the prompt reply.

The wiggle appears to be due to looseness in the horizontal bolts that
attach the boom to the aluminum piece at the gooseneck. He is proposing
taking the boom off, removing the aluminum piece, drilling a somewhat larger
hole, and inserting a steel bushing around the bolt to remove the wobble. I
would estimate that each of the booms has about 5-10 degrees of freedom to
rotate (in the axis along the length of the vessel) because of looseness of
the bolt in the aluminum block. Of course, I'm _not_ referring to the two
other freedoms of movement that are obviously intended by using an aluminum
block and two bolts. I'd be happy to send a picture if this isn't clear.

The rigger appears to be knowledgeable and says he has done this kind of
operation before.

The question I have is: whether the wobble should be there? Should I do
anything about it?

As you are aware, SV Northfork was once your SM2K demo vessel. In the
intervening years it has been not once but twice around the world (we are in
Cape Town South Africa about to head across the Atlantic)... so a little
wear between the bolt/aluminum is perhaps understandable :).

best regards, Mark

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "Joel F Potter" wrote:

Always pay attention to a professional rigger until he proves otherwise.
That said, I have had many of them unfamiliar with aspects of Amel stuff
get
kind of snarky. The dreaded "Not invented here" syndrome.



Mark, what part is loose? If there is "slop" in the aluminum piece that
takes the vertical and horizontal axis bolts, I would replace it rather
than
drill things oversize. If the bolts are worn, well, call the Guinness book
of World Records. Probably the aluminum piece. It is a simple piece of
hard
aluminum that should be easy to duplicate if Amel does not have them in
stock.



I am curious about this and very interested in the outcome so please be
sure
to share what you find and fix. I have never seen this on SM 53's I have
sold that have been all the way around the world. Has anybody else
experienced this? The Amel gooseneck is the simplest and strongest
approach
to this component I have ever seen.



All the best,

Joel





Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC

Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas

Mailing Address: 401 East Las Olas Boulevard #130-126

Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301

Phone: (954) 462-5869 Cell: (954) 812-2485

Email: jfpottercys@...





From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Mark
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2013 6:12 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [Amel] loose gooseneck





I had a rigger come by today to do an annual rigging check. He though the
booms on both the main and mizzen wobbled too much. He believes the
gooseneck has worn to become somewhat loose. He recommends drilling out
the
hole and inserting bushings to reduce/eliminate the wobble.

Does anyone have any thoughts on this (Joel...)? Is this an Amel-ism that
should be left as-is? Or it something that should be fixed? Has anyone had
this operation done?

Thanks in advance!

best, Mark
SM2K 331







Re: Refit of Too much Interior

Mark Pitt
 

I was aboard "Too Much" and saw the exquisite work that Jean has done. It is really quite remarkable. One has to be aboard on a sunny day to really appreciate his work.

Mark
Sabbatical III, SM #419, Phuket

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Hanspeter" wrote:

Hello

We shoot the 360° picture on board the SY "Too Much" and we can confirm that all the modifications inside the yacht are real. It is the result of 2 month of hard work from Jean Paillardon himself. He is helping us to realise the similar alteration on our Super Maramu at the moment. Picture will be posted soon, work in progress can be seen live in Ao Chalong Bay, Phuket, Thailand ...

Best regards

Nathalie & Hanspeter
SY "Nathape" # 158