Date   

Re: [Amel] Yanmar 75hp plus ZF30M with shaft alternator on a Maramu

Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

Not Not sure about the bracket holes but you must be sure that that transmission will survive freewheeling to run the alternator off the transmission shaft.

Regards

Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

On Feb 6, 2013, at 23:47, "jjjk12s" <jjjk12s@...> wrote:

Is there anyone with a ZF30M gearbox who happens to know if there are bolt holes to mount a shaft alternator bracket like those present on the ZF25M (Hurth 250)? The Yanmar 75hp can be bought standard with the ZF30M rather than the ZF25M. I am replacing a Perkins M60/ZF25M.

John, Maramu #91 Popeye



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Geonav for spare parts and Navionics charts.

jlm@jlmertz.fr
 

Thank'you very much !
YES I am interested in your chart,
What would be the cost ?
Merci

JL MERTZ
on CottonBay
SM 316
------------------------------------------------------------------------

Le 07/02/2013 12:54, gegcarter a écrit :

Our Geonav (on supermaramu 2000) does not work anymore. We hate
putting things in bins, does anyone need spares? The Geonav can be
collected in London. But if someone just needs navionics charts for
the Geonav we could send them (they all are dated 1987 to 1992)Aegean,
Medit. east, Med west, Med center,Med south, cote d'azur,
greece,atlantic north east,indian basin,tirreno north,Caribbean.And
one box marked Digilog.


Amiot switch panel bulbs

Tony Robinson <tonywrobinson51@...>
 

Hello everyone - some of the blue lights on my Amel 54 24V switch panel have blown. These are just to illuminate the switches at night. Unlike  the red lights indicating a circuit is switched on which are individually mounted and can be changed one by one, the blue lights are soldered on to two circuit boards.


I've changed one of these circuit boards with a new one I ordered up directly from Amel, but they charged a ludicrous price of over 100 euros. Does anyone know where I can get the same board at a sensible price? The one I took out was manufactured by Amiot but when I Google them all I get is an address in St. Malo, France - no stockists, suppliers or replacement/alternative suggestions. I know Beneteau use the same brand on their switch panels, but no luck there either.

Can anyone suggest anything ?


Thanks, Tony Robinson - Catriona R, Amel 54 no 102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Geonav for spare parts and Navionics charts.

Germain Jean-Pierre
 

I have a suggestion: place it in the for sale section here

http://www.ybw.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?13-Practical-Boat-Owner-s-Reader-to-Reader

Large forum of UK based raggies and wave makers :-)

Jean-Pierre

On 7 Feb 2013, at 12:54, gegcarter wrote:

Our Geonav (on supermaramu 2000) does not work anymore. We hate putting things in bins, does anyone need spares? The Geonav can be collected in London. But if someone just needs navionics charts for the Geonav we could send them (they all are dated 1987 to 1992)Aegean, Medit. east, Med west, Med center,Med south, cote d'azur, greece,atlantic north east,indian basin,tirreno north,Caribbean.And one box marked Digilog.


Geonav for spare parts and Navionics charts.

gegcarter <gegcarter@...>
 

Our Geonav (on supermaramu 2000) does not work anymore. We hate putting things in bins, does anyone need spares? The Geonav can be collected in London. But if someone just needs navionics charts for the Geonav we could send them (they all are dated 1987 to 1992)Aegean, Medit. east, Med west, Med center,Med south, cote d'azur, greece,atlantic north east,indian basin,tirreno north,Caribbean.And one box marked Digilog.


Yanmar 75hp plus ZF30M with shaft alternator on a Maramu

jjjk12s <jjjk12s@...>
 

Is there anyone with a ZF30M gearbox who happens to know if there are bolt holes to mount a shaft alternator bracket like those present on the ZF25M (Hurth 250)? The Yanmar 75hp can be bought standard with the ZF30M rather than the ZF25M. I am replacing a Perkins M60/ZF25M.

John, Maramu #91 Popeye


Re: Euros mainsheet track

Dave_Benjamin
 

Ullar,

We have an older Amel also, a 1979 Maramu. We fitted a Harken Big Boat track to our boat. The original Goiot track was substantial enough that we could drill and tap mounting holes for the Harken track.

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "ullaroo" wrote:

Hello everybody,
My wife Ellen and I are fresh owners of an old Amel. We bought our Euros 41 no 250 last summer and sailed it for a couple of months on Baltic before wintering it on shore in Estonia. PO has kept the boat in good condition so we didn't have no problems what so ever with it during our time on water. However, being keen sailors and having plans to go further away we see some room for improvements. Even on such an old boat many things are relatively easy to modernise, specially with help of the knowledge gathered on inernet forums like this one. Then again, answers for some questions are more difficult to come by. And here it comes why I decided to trouble you with my request for information. After hauling mainsheet car from side to side by hand for a month it was clear to me that I have to do something to arrange that business in more agreeable way. So, what are my options? Should I get rid of all of it and replace with a new sytem with towed car? Or is there a possibility to keep the track and use new towable car and other hardware with it? What have others done?
Regards,
Ullar


Euros mainsheet track

ullaroo
 

Hello everybody,
My wife Ellen and I are fresh owners of an old Amel. We bought our Euros 41 no 250 last summer and sailed it for a couple of months on Baltic before wintering it on shore in Estonia. PO has kept the boat in good condition so we didn't have no problems what so ever with it during our time on water. However, being keen sailors and having plans to go further away we see some room for improvements. Even on such an old boat many things are relatively easy to modernise, specially with help of the knowledge gathered on inernet forums like this one. Then again, answers for some questions are more difficult to come by. And here it comes why I decided to trouble you with my request for information. After hauling mainsheet car from side to side by hand for a month it was clear to me that I have to do something to arrange that business in more agreeable way. So, what are my options? Should I get rid of all of it and replace with a new sytem with towed car? Or is there a possibility to keep the track and use new towable car and other hardware with it? What have others done?
Regards,
Ullar


[Amel] Re: New main sail sm2k

Dave_Benjamin
 

Dennis,

A load path sail is a crosscut laminate sail with reinforcing fibers laid along the load paths. The beauty of the construction is that the parts of the sail under more load have higher denier, or fiber density. So we don't really classify the material in the same fashion as a woven product like Dacron.

Where is your boat located?

One thing I realized about my previous post is that I discussed thickness without really explaining that I was referring to the areas of the sail like corner patches where we try to avoid bulkiness. We also use a SailKote treatment at our production loft to reduce friction, block moisture retention, and extend the life of the furling motors. We put a set of Dacron sails on a Maramu and the owner mentioned he could hear the difference in the motors and how they were not having to work as much as they did with the old sails.

--- In amelyachtowners@..., Dennis Woods wrote:

Dave, is there any optimum cloth weight I should go for in a load path Dacron material ? Thanks. Dennis

Sent from my iPhone

On 4 Feb 2013, at 05:56, "Dave_Benjamin" wrote:

Dennis,

There's no "right answer" so to speak. Every material has advantages and disadvantages. Many Super Maramu owners in Europe favor Radial Hydranet from Dimension Polyant. It's important to note that the crosscut variant of Hydranet is a waste of money, offering little advantage over a premium Dacron. Radial Hydranet is an excellent product but is very very expensive. There are some excellent alternatives and as a sailmaker, I personally wouldn't put Hydranet on my boat. The latest generation of load path sails are a better value, have better shape holding, and are lighter.

As for cut, you're pretty limited with a furling main. When we build furling mains our goals are to make a very strong sail that doesn't get too thick and interfere with smooth furling and to avoid a full shape. Furling mains are very simple to design and build compared to conventional mainsails.

If I can answer any questions, feel free to get in touch.

Regards,

Dave Benjamin
SV Exit Strategy - Maramu #29
Owner/Founder Island Planet Sails

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "dennis" wrote:

I need to replace the mainsail on my 2003 sm2k. I would welcome advice on the best material, the weight ( in ounces) and the cut. All views would be most welcome. Happy Sails. Dennis SM408

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Foredeck locker leaks

islandbwoy4434
 

During the survey of Libbey SM196 last year it was noted that there was moisture in both the foredeck lockers. We have finally got around to finding the source of the intrusion. Having emptied both lockers and climbing inside, water stains around the 6 latch trough bolts were a tell tale sign.
Removing all 6 latches confirmed my suspicion. Wet coring material around all but 3 of the 24 through bolts was observed.
To my astonishment there was absolutely no sign what so ever of bedding or sealant around any of the fasteners. Keep in mind that several of these fasteners sit in the faux teak deck joints that water runs down!
My remedy was to drill out the existing holes with a drill bit 2x the orignal hole size, duct tape the underside of the holes/deck, fill with epoxy, re-drill to the correct size and re-install the deck hardware with Boatlife Life Seal.
Surprised that such a quality built vessel would have something like this overlooked!
Hope this is of use.

Terry&Dena
SV Libby. SM196


Re: [Amel] Re: New main sail sm2k

Dennis woods
 

Dave, is there any optimum cloth weight I should go for in a load path Dacron material ? Thanks. Dennis
On 4 Feb 2013, at 05:56, "Dave_Benjamin" <dave_benjamin@...> wrote:

Dennis,

There's no "right answer" so to speak. Every material has advantages and disadvantages. Many Super Maramu owners in Europe favor Radial Hydranet from Dimension Polyant. It's important to note that the crosscut variant of Hydranet is a waste of money, offering little advantage over a premium Dacron. Radial Hydranet is an excellent product but is very very expensive. There are some excellent alternatives and as a sailmaker, I personally wouldn't put Hydranet on my boat. The latest generation of load path sails are a better value, have better shape holding, and are lighter.

As for cut, you're pretty limited with a furling main. When we build furling mains our goals are to make a very strong sail that doesn't get too thick and interfere with smooth furling and to avoid a full shape. Furling mains are very simple to design and build compared to conventional mainsails.

If I can answer any questions, feel free to get in touch.

Regards,

Dave Benjamin
SV Exit Strategy - Maramu #29
Owner/Founder Island Planet Sails

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "dennis" wrote:

I need to replace the mainsail on my 2003 sm2k. I would welcome advice on the best material, the weight ( in ounces) and the cut. All views would be most welcome. Happy Sails. Dennis SM408

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: SPURS Rope Cutter on SM2000 + Autoprop H6

Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
 

I should have said Spurs B 1½ "

Bill

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" wrote:

Armin,

BeBe, SM2k #387 has Spurs Rope cutter: B 1

Parts at http://spursmarine.com/shaft_parts.html

Contact info is:
Bryony Fisher
Office Manager
Spurs Marine Mfg., Inc.
201 SW 33rd Street
Fort Lauderdale, FL 33315
Tel. 954-463-2707
Fax 954-525-0239
bryony"at"spursmarine.com

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Armin" wrote:

Hi all,

at the moment I am not at the boat, but I need to know the size of the rope cutter on the SM2k, to order some spare parts shortly.

Does anybody know and can give me the size or "Model Type" of the SPURS Rope Cutter that is on a SM2000 with a Autoprop H6.

Regards
Armin
ASHIA / SM2k / #357


Re: SPURS Rope Cutter on SM2000 + Autoprop H6

Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Armin,

BeBe, SM2k #387 has Spurs Rope cutter: B 1

Parts at http://spursmarine.com/shaft_parts.html

Contact info is:
Bryony Fisher
Office Manager
Spurs Marine Mfg., Inc.
201 SW 33rd Street
Fort Lauderdale, FL 33315
Tel. 954-463-2707
Fax 954-525-0239
bryony"at"spursmarine.com

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Armin" wrote:

Hi all,

at the moment I am not at the boat, but I need to know the size of the rope cutter on the SM2k, to order some spare parts shortly.

Does anybody know and can give me the size or "Model Type" of the SPURS Rope Cutter that is on a SM2000 with a Autoprop H6.

Regards
Armin
ASHIA / SM2k / #357


Curtain Sizes for SM2000

briantrautman@ymail.com
 

I'm wondering if anyone has the dimensions of the interior curtains for a Super Maramu (Forward Cabin, Salon, and Aft Cabin). I want to make new ones but unfortunately neglected to take measurements before I put her away last season.

Thanks!
Brian Trautman
S&#92;V Delos SM#303


Water maker membranes

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Hi Y'all, This week's super savings tip---I have just been quoted by Dessalator's UK agent £352 for a single SW30-2521 membrane for our D60. Air, Ice and Water in the US has a price of $189, ( £120 at today's exchange........) I need two. OK, there's a bit of freight and duty for me in the UK importing from the US, but you guys over there are just so , so lucky!! I could probably fly to the US and bring them home myself and still have change! Incidentally, one useful tip I did learn from the UK agent is that you can take the fresh water exit cap off the end of each of the two membranes and measure their relative outputs. The first membrane to receive water from the high pressure pump will be subject to greater pressure and the second membrane will have to deal with saltier water. Because of this, you might find that you only need to replace one of the two . I am considering replacement after about 1,000 hours because it is now taking us about 10 minutes to get down to around 600 ppm, which is the upper level at which we are happy to fill our tank. Although the membranes eventually reach about 400 ppm the output is now down to 35-40 instead of 60 lph. I did an alkaline clean last season which did help, but I think its now time to renew. Stick to gin---ppm almost nil ! Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Ragusa, Sicily


Re: [Amel] SPURS Rope Cutter on SM2000 + Autoprop H6

Sailorman <kimberlite@...>
 

Just call Spurs and tell them you have the same line cutter as Kimberlite,
they keep track of what they sell by boat name.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Armin
Sent: Monday, February 04, 2013 2:54 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel] SPURS Rope Cutter on SM2000 + Autoprop H6





Hi all,

at the moment I am not at the boat, but I need to know the size of the rope
cutter on the SM2k, to order some spare parts shortly.

Does anybody know and can give me the size or "Model Type" of the SPURS Rope
Cutter that is on a SM2000 with a Autoprop H6.

Regards
Armin
ASHIA / SM2k / #357


Re: [Amel] Re: Inner forestay drawing

GrahamJohnston42 <grahamjohnston42@yahoo.com>
 

Hi all,
Is the setup on the SM different from the Sharki then?
 
On our Sharki sailplan there is a 'Trinquette secours', a heavy weather 11 sq mt sail made to be set from a strop at the spreaders and tacked on the foredeck cleat according to Amel in Hyeres.
 
Surely this would apply vertical loads to said cleat that is not, apparently, designed for it?
 
Graham
Sharki 181


________________________________
From: sharki41 <hannamj@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Monday, 4 February 2013, 2:05
Subject: [Amel] Re: Inner forestay drawing


 

All of this talk about not putting a vertical load on the foredeck cleat prompts me to ask...On our Sharki I was planning to use soft shackles around the aft cleats as anchor points for the mizzen mast running back stay. If this is a bad idea...what are the proper locations for the running back stay deck anchor points?
Thanks.
Mark Hanna
Sharki # 49

--- In mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com, "Joel F Potter" wrote:

Uh Oh.

Eric, the JFP on that drawing is me. Several months after I sent that to
you, I got reamed, but good, by Jacques Carteau. He found out I was
encouraging this modification and proceeded to inform me that:



1. The foredeck cleat was never designed with any vertical tension loads
in mind, only horizontal shearing loads.

2. None of the plywood in the forepeak, on the horizontal plane, is
designed to be structural in any way other than a slight amount of
stiffening to the hull skins in this area. They are designed primarily as
compartmentalizing components, not structural ones.

3. To be done properly, the tension load from the inner forestay would
need to be carried directly into the stem area and a substantial stainless
steel structural member would need to be mounted inside the stem with an
equally substantial backing plate on the outside of the stemhead.

4. DON'T DO THIS MOD AS DRAWN!!! If the mast pumps, even slightly as it
can when falling off a way or stuffing the bow into a big wave, it will
overload everything this mistake is attached to. Eventually it can cause
severe damage to the foredeck and the hull/deck union.

5. Jacques Carteau went on to imply that I didn't know who my parents
were and suggested I do some things that are anatomically impossible.
Jacques Carteau, as most of us know, was the eyes of Captain Amel and
actually was the designer of a great many parts of the boat, based on input
from the Captain.



Eric, I neglected to remember to tell you this was a bone head idea, and I
apologize. It was based on a modification that one of my customers had done.
Because he was, really and truly, a rocket scientist that worked for
Lockheed, I thought he could be trusted. Nope. My ears are still ringing
from Carteau's reprimand.



I was and am quite embarrassed by this.



Please, don't do this!



All the best,

Joel



Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC

Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas

Mailing Address: 401 East Las Olas Boulevard #130-126

Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301

Phone: (954) 462-5869 Cell: (954) 812-2485

Email: jfpottercys@...

www.yachtworld.com/jfpottercys



From: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
[mailto:mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Sailorman
Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2013 3:41 PM
To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Inner forestay drawing





I received this from Amel years ago.

It is also posted in Kimberlite Photo File.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

From: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com

[mailto:mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
]
Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2013 3:30 PM
To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com

Subject: [Amel] New file uploaded to amelyachtowners

Hello,

This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the amelyachtowners
group.

File : /Scan10037.JPG
Uploaded by : kimberlite1212 kimberlite@...

Description : Inner Forestay drawing from Amel

You can access this file at the URL:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/files/Scan10037.JPG

To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit:
http://help.yahoo.com/l/us/yahoo/groups/original/members/web/index.html
Regards,

kimberlite1212 kimberlite@...









SPURS Rope Cutter on SM2000 + Autoprop H6

Armin <n4796p@...>
 

Hi all,

at the moment I am not at the boat, but I need to know the size of the rope cutter on the SM2k, to order some spare parts shortly.

Does anybody know and can give me the size or "Model Type" of the SPURS Rope Cutter that is on a SM2000 with a Autoprop H6.

Regards
Armin
ASHIA / SM2k / #357


Re: New main sail sm2k

Dave_Benjamin
 

Dennis,

There's no "right answer" so to speak. Every material has advantages and disadvantages. Many Super Maramu owners in Europe favor Radial Hydranet from Dimension Polyant. It's important to note that the crosscut variant of Hydranet is a waste of money, offering little advantage over a premium Dacron. Radial Hydranet is an excellent product but is very very expensive. There are some excellent alternatives and as a sailmaker, I personally wouldn't put Hydranet on my boat. The latest generation of load path sails are a better value, have better shape holding, and are lighter.

As for cut, you're pretty limited with a furling main. When we build furling mains our goals are to make a very strong sail that doesn't get too thick and interfere with smooth furling and to avoid a full shape. Furling mains are very simple to design and build compared to conventional mainsails.

If I can answer any questions, feel free to get in touch.

Regards,

Dave Benjamin
SV Exit Strategy - Maramu #29
Owner/Founder Island Planet Sails

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "dennis" wrote:

I need to replace the mainsail on my 2003 sm2k. I would welcome advice on the best material, the weight ( in ounces) and the cut. All views would be most welcome. Happy Sails. Dennis SM408


bedding plexiglas for hatches and ports

Sailorman <kimberlite@...>
 

Years ago, I did a hull up restoration of a Tartan-37.

I replaced everything on the boat including every nut bolt and screw.

The only thing that I did not replace were the hatch frames.

They were made by Atkins Hoyle and they are made of heavy cast aluminum.
Stronger than anything I have seen on the market.



The point of this note is when I called Atkins Hoyle they said to coat the
surfaces of the Plexiglas and the frame with xylene before caulking. I
coated the surfaces and let the xylene dry. The surfaces were very sticky
and allowed the caulking to stick and they never leaked. I also called the
general electric silicone division and the recommended a non marine caulking
especially for this application. I never had a hatch leak a drop. In fact,
when I had to bed metal to the deck such as Genoa tracks, I painted the
xylene on them. It really makes silicone stick.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite











_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Gene Carter
Sent: Monday, January 21, 2013 9:55 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Port light / window eplacement on Amel Sharki





John

Much thanks on on your detail

Gene Carter Stargazer Sharki #135




Go Sailing

Gene C Carter
PO Box 895
Blaine WA 98231
Cell (360) 815-5388

________________________________
From: jjjk12s jjjk12s@... <mailto:jjjk12s%40yahoo.com> >
To: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2013 10:09 PM
Subject: [Amel] Re: Port light / window eplacement on Amel Sharki



A couple of tips on window replacement...not a complete guide...

I have redone mine on my Maramu but think it is basically the same. I think
my windows were original but can't be positive.

Some of the fasteners are screws and some are through-bolts. It is
straightforward to carefully remove the timber trim strips that are nailed
on the inside of the windows to access the nuts. The screws may not all be
the same length so note where they go. Also the bolts are cut flush with the
nuts so they don't foul the timber trim. Likewise try to note where they go
otherwise some may end up too long and some too short when you put it all
back together.

Use the old windows as templates and easiest to get copies made at a
prespex/acrylic supplier rather than cut yourself. Hopefully the supplier
can also paint the blankened patches as on the original. It was easy to get
mine off without breaking them. It appeared two different sorts of sealant
had been used. It is hard to tell but a strong one seems to have been used
at the ends where the window buts against a portlight or other window, but
less strong sealant elswhere which seemed to be normal silicon sealant.
Whatever the reason some of the sealant was black and much harder to remove.
Acrylic can expand a lot in the sun so my guess is the stronger sealant was
used to stop movement at that location.

To cope with the expansion have the holes drilled oversize, (should match
the original) otherwise the perspex may crack at the holes. I drilled my own
holes but you have to use a blunt drill bit or use a grinder to flatten the
cutting edge of a new bit. If you use a new sharp bit it can "bite" and
crack the window when the holes are near the edge. Also use a washer between
the perspex and the hull on each fastening to ensure enough thickness of
sealant to allow for the shearing effect caused by thermal expansion and
contraction. Washers will be there on the original installation.

The thickness of my windows was slightly less than 10mm. I could only
replace with 10mm so had to renew some of the fastenings. It's easiest if
the new stuff is exactly the same thickness as old.

There is plenty of info on the internet about sealant. A few different
brands offer sealant specifically for acrylic. Best to take some advice from
your acrylic supplier. However, modern boat windows are often just glued on
without fasteners and the sealant is designed for this ie super strong. This
is the stuff that needs to be used when replacing the perspex in hatches.
With the Amel's stainless steel trim and fasteners the stength of the
sealant is not as important. The windows will not fall out! However, the
shear strength (modulus?)is very important as the length of the windows
means there can be a lot of movement caused by thermal expansion. Not sure
about Butyl tape. I have read about it but not seen it used and wouldn't be
confident it would not run with sun and tinted windows that get hot.

When installing get an extra pair of hands to help, use masking tape,
patience and Isopropyl alcohol as solvent (if you have difficulty finding
some try a cleaning supplies company). Abrade the edge of the perspex where
the sealant will grip and wipe with isopropyl alcohol to remove any dust and
properly clean and prepare the hull likewise. A google search will come up
with more advice about fitting the windows without getting sealant
everywhere....

Obviously check there are no leaks when it's finished.

John #91 Maramu Popeye

--- In amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "Gene" wrote:


Good day all,

Has any one attempted to replace the fixed port lights / windows on the
Amell Sharki

What issues did you have what type of sealant or gasket did you use.

Thanks in advance for any information.