Date   

Re: [Amel] John-- Motor lifting block on mizzen boom

Eric Freedman
 

Thanks
Eric

----- Original Message -----
From: Anne and John Hollamby
Date: Saturday, June 29, 2013 5:11 am
Subject: Re: [Amel] John-- Motor lifting block on mizzen boom
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com

Hi Eric,Sorry for the delay, I have checked with the other UK
company, Barton, and it is not in their catalogue so no luck.
Discontinued perhaps? John

From: Sailorman
Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2013 7:34 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Amel] John-- Motor lifting block on mizzen boom


????????????????????

-----Original Message-----
From: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
[mailto:mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Anne and John Hollamby
Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2013 1:33 AM
To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel] John-- Motor lifting block on mizzen boom

chunk x BG
On 25 Jun 2013 22:37, "Sailorman"
wrote:

**


Hi John,

I thought the block was a lewmar but I could not find it in
the catalog
(it
is Marked England) I also tried Bowman also no luck.

Are you able to find it on the Lewmar site?

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

From: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
[mailto:mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Anne and John
Hollamby
Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2013 11:44 AM
To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel] Motor lifting block on mizzen boom

Hi Eric,
It is a small Lewmar block which had been fully disassembled
and only the
sheave perhaps with its bearing and the two cheeks are used.
Regards, John Bali Hai SM 319 Malta

From: Sailorman
Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2013 2:59 AM
To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com

Subject: [Amel] Motor lifting block on mizzen boom

Hi,

Does anyone know the maker of the block ( I think it was
originally a
fiddle
block) that Amel uses on the end of mizzen boom to lift the
Outboard out
of
the stern locker ?

I believe it was on later model Amel Super Maramus

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

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Re: Yacht Brokers

Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
 

My number one Amel broker choice is Joel Potter in Florida. I believe that he knows Amels better than any living person in the world.
Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC
Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas
Mailing Address: 401 East Las Olas Boulevard #130-126
Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301
Phone: (954) 462-5869 Cell: (954) 812-2485
Email: jfpottercys"at"att.net
www.yachtworld.com/jfpottercys

However, if you need either an Amel broker or Amel service in the Eastern Med, you should contact Riza at Emek Marin in Gocek, Turkey. Emek has been in business for 3 generations and Riza is the 3rd generation. Emek Marin is a sales and service representative for Amel and Nordhaven brands.

In Gocek Riza has the following:
Berthing at his Amel pontoon
Haulout and hard storage (sub-contracted with D-Marin)
Stainless fabrication
Complete 20,000 sq foot machine shop (fabricate anything)
Painting and Fiberglass technicians also antifouling
Diesel mechanics
Generator mechanics
Electrician
General Maintenance inside the yacht and outside
Chandler (some Amel parts and a great assortment of other parts)

Contact information:
RIZA CAGDAS CAKIR, Chief Operating Officer
EMEK MARIN LTD.STI.
Address: Hurriyet Mah Ataturk Bul.No:1
48310 Gocek/Mugla/TURKEY
Tel: +90 252 645 2468 - 1551
Fax: +90 252 645 2899
Gsm: +90 532 495 6539
e-mail: cagdas"at"emekmarin.com
web: www.emekmarin.com

We have used Riza for a number of things aboard BeBe. He is currently fabricating a beautiful stainless arch/davit with solar panels. This is not a "squared off fabrication"...it has unique curved uprights that not only look good, but are very functional. Riza is 29 years old, speaks perfect English and other languages, and has his Masters in Marine Engineering...he always has a smile on his face and will go out of his way to help an Amel owner.

For Sails and Rigging in Turkey or Europe contact Tahsin Öge at:
QSails & Marine Equipment Ltd.
Ogemar Sails & Marine Equipment Ltd.
Eski Havaalan&#305; Cad. No:188/3 A.O.S.B 35620
Cigli Izmir-TURKEY
T: +90 232 3281629 - 30
F: +90 232 3281712
&#61482; ceren.alan"at"qsails.com
&#61498; &#61472;www.qsails.com
Tashin has fabricated a complete set of 3 Hydranet sails for BeBe. It was not his first SM or Amel. Tashin's sail loft was previously the loft that built many sails for other name brands and shipped them to resell dealers and lofts in Europe. Until recently 95% of his business was export and under name brands such as Hood and Northsails. About 8 months ago and after 25 years in the business Tashin and his family decided to start selling sails direct to yacht owners. About the same time we were looking to replace our Dacron sails with 30k miles of use. Tashin and his family were great to work with...his loft is spotless and very large...and he is an honorable man.

Hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Gocek, Turkey

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "EdisonR" <roque@...> wrote:

Hi all

This Forum has a lot of info about where to get parts and services all over the world. I've used a lot of them (by the way, Sheri Moon -Trans Atlantic Diesel- said hello to John "Moon Dog" and Joel Potter)

But when someone wants to buy/sell an Amel and reach for us for help, there is almost nothing about Yacht Brokers (with the exception of Joel Potter in USA, who does a great job here in this forum).

A friend wants to sell his SM. And I can only refer him to the Broker who helped me buy my boat. But if his Amel is in another ocean, this won't be helpful. We all will have to let go our Amel sometime in the future. Me too. And we will be facing the same issue.

Maybe we could put together here in this thread our comments about Brokers around the world who are familiar with Amel. Those you know, first hand, that are good professional. Also websites to market, prices of real deals, etc, etc. Anything that will help to sell or buy an Amel.

I don't mean we will guarantee the broker's work, as much as we don't guarantee a parts provider. But we could at least say: "Smith" did a great job selling my former Amel in Germany (or Australia, South America, Turkey...) 2010. You can reach him at....!

So if you think this will be helpful for the group as well as wannabe Amel owners, send your contribution.

Rgds

Roque
Atica
Amel54


Re: [Amel] Re: John-- Motor lifting block on mizzen boom

Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

Hi there is a halyard that has it's block at just below the
Mizzen spreader. That is the lifting line it goes over the open block on the mizzen boom.
Bring the dink along the starboard side, move the traveler over and slack the sheet. Drop the line down attach the motor. Lift the motor using the main sheet winch. When it clears the rails swing it back over the aft lazerett and lower. There is a 'block' receiver and a prop well in the floor.
Hope this helps.
You can use the same tactic with man over board rescue.

Regards
Richard Piller
Fairbanks Yacht Group llc
Cell 603 767 5330

On Jun 29, 2013, at 11:52, "islandbwoy4434" <terencesingh@mac.com> wrote:

Can someone please educate me as to how this block is rigged on the Mizzen to hoist an Engine in and out of the rear locker? I am interested in the configuration on the Mizzen mast and which winches are used.

Thanks in advance,

Terry & Dena
Libby. SM#196

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Anne and John Hollamby " <annejohnholl@...> wrote:

Hi Eric,Sorry for the delay, I have checked with the other UK company, Barton, and it is not in their catalogue so no luck. Discontinued perhaps? John

From: Sailorman
Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2013 7:34 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Amel] John-- Motor lifting block on mizzen boom


????????????????????

-----Original Message-----
From: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
[mailto:mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Anne and John Hollamby
Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2013 1:33 AM
To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel] John-- Motor lifting block on mizzen boom

chunk x BG
On 25 Jun 2013 22:37, "Sailorman" <mailto:kimberlite%40optonline.net> wrote:

**


Hi John,

I thought the block was a lewmar but I could not find it in the catalog
(it
is Marked England) I also tried Bowman also no luck.

Are you able to find it on the Lewmar site?

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

From: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
[mailto:mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Anne and John
Hollamby
Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2013 11:44 AM
To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel] Motor lifting block on mizzen boom

Hi Eric,
It is a small Lewmar block which had been fully disassembled and only the
sheave perhaps with its bearing and the two cheeks are used.
Regards, John Bali Hai SM 319 Malta

From: Sailorman
Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2013 2:59 AM
To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [Amel] Motor lifting block on mizzen boom

Hi,

Does anyone know the maker of the block ( I think it was originally a
fiddle
block) that Amel uses on the end of mizzen boom to lift the Outboard out
of
the stern locker ?

I believe it was on later model Amel Super Maramus

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

I am using the Free version of SPAMfighter <http://www.spamfighter.com/len
.
SPAMfighter has removed 1640 of my spam emails to date.

Do you have a slow PC? <
http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen>
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------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

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I am using the free version of SPAMfighter.
SPAMfighter has removed 1662 of my spam emails to date.
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Re: [Amel] Yacht Brokers

Luis I. Gonzalez de Vallejo <l_gonzalezvallejo@...>
 

Thanks a lot,
Luis


________________________________



________________________________
De: Christophe Lascombes <c.lascombes@t-online.de>
Para: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Enviado: Sábado 29 de junio de 2013 18:20
Asunto: Re: [Amel] Yacht Brokers

 

Hello Luis, hello all,

in South France, Michel Charpentier is the french "Joel Potter".
He knows almost all about Amel boats and when I'all been so far (better say) so "bankable" to buy the Sharki or the Maramu of my dreams, I'll certainly ask first and only Michel Charpentier.
You can reach him here:
http://www.michelcharpentier.com/

MICHEL CHARPENTIER
Le Mexico. B1
Port de Santa Lucia
83700 SAINT-RAPHAEL
Tél. +33 (0)4 94 95 68 44
Fax : +33 (0)4 94 83 89 44
mailto:michel_charpentier%40hotmail.com

Fair winds for all of those who are actually sailing and my deeptes sympathy to those who (like myself!) could not go on the water since last year...

Christophe

****************************************************
LASCOMBES Traductions
Christophe LASCOMBES
Schulstr. 121
D-50767 KÖLN

Tel.: +49 (0) 221 70 99 52 62
Mobil:+49 (0) 172 25 25 864

Internet: www.lascombes.eu

Mitglied der SFT/Membre de la SFT
(Société Française des Traducteurs)

Mitglied der VDS e.V/Membre de la VDS e.V
(Union des Speakers Allemands)
****************************************************

----- Original Message -----
From: Luis I. Gonzalez de Vallejo
To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, June 29, 2013 6:09 PM
Subject: Re: [Amel] Yacht Brokers

Hello all,
this is a very good idea. I am selling my Amel Mango and I dont know in the Med appropiate broker with is interested in the amels.
Good winds,
Luis
Aloysius Amel Mango

________________________________
De: EdisonR <mailto:roque%40credvapt.com.br>
Para: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
Enviado: Sábado 29 de junio de 2013 16:45
Asunto: [Amel] Yacht Brokers

Hi all

This Forum has a lot of info about where to get parts and services all over the world. I've used a lot of them (by the way, Sheri Moon -Trans Atlantic Diesel- said hello to John "Moon Dog" and Joel Potter)

But when someone wants to buy/sell an Amel and reach for us for help, there is almost nothing about Yacht Brokers (with the exception of Joel Potter in USA, who does a great job here in this forum).

A friend wants to sell his SM. And I can only refer him to the Broker who helped me buy my boat. But if his Amel is in another ocean, this won't be helpful. We all will have to let go our Amel sometime in the future. Me too. And we will be facing the same issue.

Maybe we could put together here in this thread our comments about Brokers around the world who are familiar with Amel. Those you know, first hand, that are good professional. Also websites to market, prices of real deals, etc, etc. Anything that will help to sell or buy an Amel.

I don't mean we will guarantee the broker's work, as much as we don't guarantee a parts provider. But we could at least say: "Smith" did a great job selling my former Amel in Germany (or Australia, South America, Turkey...) 2010. You can reach him at....!

So if you think this will be helpful for the group as well as wannabe Amel owners, send your contribution.

Rgds

Roque
Atica
Amel54



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Yacht Brokers

Christophe Lascombes <c.lascombes@...>
 

Hello Luis, hello all,

in South France, Michel Charpentier is the french "Joel Potter".
He knows almost all about Amel boats and when I'all been so far (better say) so "bankable" to buy the Sharki or the Maramu of my dreams, I'll certainly ask first and only Michel Charpentier.
You can reach him here:
http://www.michelcharpentier.com/

MICHEL CHARPENTIER
Le Mexico. B1
Port de Santa Lucia
83700 SAINT-RAPHAEL
Tél. +33 (0)4 94 95 68 44
Fax : +33 (0)4 94 83 89 44
michel_charpentier@hotmail.com

Fair winds for all of those who are actually sailing and my deeptes sympathy to those who (like myself!) could not go on the water since last year...



Christophe


****************************************************
LASCOMBES Traductions
Christophe LASCOMBES
Schulstr. 121
D-50767 KÖLN

Tel.: +49 (0) 221 70 99 52 62
Mobil:+49 (0) 172 25 25 864

Internet: www.lascombes.eu

Mitglied der SFT/Membre de la SFT
(Société Française des Traducteurs)

Mitglied der VDS e.V/Membre de la VDS e.V
(Union des Speakers Allemands)
****************************************************

----- Original Message -----
From: Luis I. Gonzalez de Vallejo
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, June 29, 2013 6:09 PM
Subject: Re: [Amel] Yacht Brokers



Hello all,
this is a very good idea. I am selling my Amel Mango and I dont know in the Med appropiate broker with is interested in the amels.
Good winds,
Luis
Aloysius Amel Mango




________________________________
De: EdisonR <roque@credvapt.com.br>
Para: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Enviado: Sábado 29 de junio de 2013 16:45
Asunto: [Amel] Yacht Brokers



Hi all

This Forum has a lot of info about where to get parts and services all over the world. I've used a lot of them (by the way, Sheri Moon -Trans Atlantic Diesel- said hello to John "Moon Dog" and Joel Potter)

But when someone wants to buy/sell an Amel and reach for us for help, there is almost nothing about Yacht Brokers (with the exception of Joel Potter in USA, who does a great job here in this forum).

A friend wants to sell his SM. And I can only refer him to the Broker who helped me buy my boat. But if his Amel is in another ocean, this won't be helpful. We all will have to let go our Amel sometime in the future. Me too. And we will be facing the same issue.

Maybe we could put together here in this thread our comments about Brokers around the world who are familiar with Amel. Those you know, first hand, that are good professional. Also websites to market, prices of real deals, etc, etc. Anything that will help to sell or buy an Amel.

I don't mean we will guarantee the broker's work, as much as we don't guarantee a parts provider. But we could at least say: "Smith" did a great job selling my former Amel in Germany (or Australia, South America, Turkey...) 2010. You can reach him at....!

So if you think this will be helpful for the group as well as wannabe Amel owners, send your contribution.

Rgds

Roque
Atica
Amel54

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Yacht Brokers

Luis I. Gonzalez de Vallejo <l_gonzalezvallejo@...>
 

Hello  all,
this is a very good idea. I am selling my Amel Mango and I dont know in the Med appropiate broker  with is interested in the amels.
Good winds,
Luis
Aloysius Amel Mango

 


________________________________
De: EdisonR <roque@credvapt.com.br>
Para: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Enviado: Sábado 29 de junio de 2013 16:45
Asunto: [Amel] Yacht Brokers

 

Hi all

This Forum has a lot of info about where to get parts and services all over the world. I've used a lot of them (by the way, Sheri Moon -Trans Atlantic Diesel- said hello to John "Moon Dog" and Joel Potter)

But when someone wants to buy/sell an Amel and reach for us for help, there is almost nothing about Yacht Brokers (with the exception of Joel Potter in USA, who does a great job here in this forum).

A friend wants to sell his SM. And I can only refer him to the Broker who helped me buy my boat. But if his Amel is in another ocean, this won't be helpful. We all will have to let go our Amel sometime in the future. Me too. And we will be facing the same issue.

Maybe we could put together here in this thread our comments about Brokers around the world who are familiar with Amel. Those you know, first hand, that are good professional. Also websites to market, prices of real deals, etc, etc. Anything that will help to sell or buy an Amel.

I don't mean we will guarantee the broker's work, as much as we don't guarantee a parts provider. But we could at least say: "Smith" did a great job selling my former Amel in Germany (or Australia, South America, Turkey...) 2010. You can reach him at....!

So if you think this will be helpful for the group as well as wannabe Amel owners, send your contribution.

Rgds

Roque
Atica
Amel54




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Generator 8kw

Arca di Noè
 

Hello everyone,

I sell my Paguro generator 220v 8kw soundproofed, almost new, with maintenance handbook and spare parts, The generator is still mounted on the boat and it is ready for any test.
Information and photos sent on request.

Regards

Mango 85 Leghorn Italy


[Amel] Re: Volvo Penta TMD22 Low RPM

islandbwoy4434
 

The latest update.
Geoff has requested I perform a sea trial and capture RPM vs boat speed data at 1200 RPM and in increments of 200 RPM aswell as WOT in neutral and WOT in forward and note the RPM's. He will correlate thiis data with the Engine and Transmission specs and provide guidance. Re-pitch or new prop!
I will do this mid July and report back.

Terry&Dena

SV Libby. SM#197

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Joel F Potter" <jfpottercys@...> wrote:

Hello Danny and the propeller problems with fouling and wear and RPM reductions are not exclusive to the Volvo engine installation (and the Perkins Prima which is virtually the same engine). I had a Volvo equipped boat as my first demonstration boat, and then two Yanmar boats that I purchased in succession for use as demonstrators. The Yanmar boats did exactly the same thing with even one gooseneck barnacle on the Autoprop. That, and the fact that I have sold at least 70 used SM 53’s over the years and prepared for every sea trial with a prop inspection and/or cleaning to make sure that proper performance could be demonstrated. The Autoprop is a fine device if it is clean but they have a real Jekell-Hyde character change when dirty.



Your comments on usage and carbon and so forth are right on the money. I have sold boats with 700 hours on the diesel where the motor was never run past about 60% of maximum output. Of course these were smoky and well down on power to the 7000 hour example that was run flat stick frequently and always attempted to be kept in the 75%-90% power range and with otherwise exemplary maintenance. Diesels like to work and protest if they are made to loaf…



I always smile when I see that you are out and about enjoying your Amel the way God and Henri intended. You are a fortunate guy!



All the best,

Joel





Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC

Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas

Mailing Address: 401 East Las Olas Boulevard #130-126

Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301

Phone: (954) 462-5869 Cell: (954) 812-2485

Email: jfpottercys@...





From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com [mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2013 7:16 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Volvo Penta TMD22 Low RPM





Hi All,
It is of note that the problem is exclusive to the TMD 22. If it is a prop problem it beggars belief that no Yanmar equipped boats have trouble with their props. Surely all Yanmar owners do not do a so much better job of keeping any fouling off their propellers?

Also, as I understand the auto prop it automatically adjusts pitch to match power, and torque applied, the load, and boat speed. So the pitch would be different in a fully laden boat with all cruising gear on board, and 600l diesel and 1000 l of water and six persons and luggage aboard, pushing into 20 knots of wind and a chop, compared to an empty boat in flat water with no opposing wind. I would expect the fully laden boat to operate with a lesser pitch to allow revs to be attained, like changing down gears in a car going up a steep hill.

Likewise, if two identical boats, identically laden in identical circumstances, had different diameter propellers, would not the auto prop automatically compensate for this by applying a lesser pitch to the larger prop? It would do this on the boats with the 100hp engines running at less than full power would they not?.

I believe we may find different owners (or past owners) habitual usage of their motors over long periods may well be a factor. Diesel engines like to work, and work for long periods of time, to get good and hot and burn off accumulated carbon deposits.

Speaking of Carbon deposits. There is a cast iron casting at the end of the exhaust manifold. This is where the cooling water enters the exhaust system. It is a common problem across all engine types for large amounts of carbon the build up here, to the extent it can completely clog the exhaust. It is caused by the change in temperature as the water meets the VERY HOT exhaust gases. Twice recently I have heard of engines actually being stopped by this, one was a Kubota diving a gen set on an Amel, the other was a small Yanmar in a 30 footer. The owner of the Yanmar, a quite skilled home mechanic, had gone to the extent of removing the motor and completely disasembling it before he found the inaccessible exhaust almost completely clogged where the water and hot gasses met.
Food for thought,
Regards
Danny
SM 299 Ocean Pearl
Currently Cruising Fiji

________________________________
From: Miles Bidwell <mbidwell@...>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, 24 June 2013 8:35 AM
Subject: [Amel] Re: Volvo Penta TMD22 Low RPM


I have recently been having the same problem with my TMD22. I cannot get
more than about 1700 rpms, but if I stop and then flat stick the throttle,
the autoprop will spin up into the turbo range and then I have (what seems
to be) almost normal power until I let the rpms drop below 2100. The
maximum revs are 2700 instead of the normal 2800 as of last summer; however
the big problem is new this year. Over the winter, I had the fresh water
pump replaced and the injectors checked and adjusted and the turbo replaced.
The autoprop is clean and to make sure, the autoprop people just rebuilt it.
A fixed prop does not solve the issue. I am about to turn to the high
pressure fuel pump. Any suggestions will be most welcome.

Miles, S/Y Ladybug (SM 216) in Newport, RI



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: John-- Motor lifting block on mizzen boom

islandbwoy4434
 

Can someone please educate me as to how this block is rigged on the Mizzen to hoist an Engine in and out of the rear locker? I am interested in the configuration on the Mizzen mast and which winches are used.

Thanks in advance,

Terry & Dena
Libby. SM#196

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Anne and John Hollamby " <annejohnholl@...> wrote:

Hi Eric,Sorry for the delay, I have checked with the other UK company, Barton, and it is not in their catalogue so no luck. Discontinued perhaps? John

From: Sailorman
Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2013 7:34 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Amel] John-- Motor lifting block on mizzen boom


????????????????????

-----Original Message-----
From: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
[mailto:mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Anne and John Hollamby
Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2013 1:33 AM
To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel] John-- Motor lifting block on mizzen boom

chunk x BG
On 25 Jun 2013 22:37, "Sailorman" <mailto:kimberlite%40optonline.net> wrote:

**


Hi John,

I thought the block was a lewmar but I could not find it in the catalog
(it
is Marked England) I also tried Bowman also no luck.

Are you able to find it on the Lewmar site?

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

From: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
[mailto:mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Anne and John
Hollamby
Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2013 11:44 AM
To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel] Motor lifting block on mizzen boom

Hi Eric,
It is a small Lewmar block which had been fully disassembled and only the
sheave perhaps with its bearing and the two cheeks are used.
Regards, John Bali Hai SM 319 Malta

From: Sailorman
Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2013 2:59 AM
To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [Amel] Motor lifting block on mizzen boom

Hi,

Does anyone know the maker of the block ( I think it was originally a
fiddle
block) that Amel uses on the end of mizzen boom to lift the Outboard out
of
the stern locker ?

I believe it was on later model Amel Super Maramus

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

I am using the Free version of SPAMfighter <http://www.spamfighter.com/len
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Re: [Amel] Lofran Tigre 1992 windlass

Fisher, Thomas W.
 

Hi Jean-Pierre,


That's a nasty project!! I did ours last year.
Best of luck with your projects. Our plans will have us in your area for fall of 2014.


Tom

-----Original Message-----
From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com [mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Massicotte Jean-Pierre
Sent: Thursday, June 27, 2013 21:26
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel] Lofran Tigre 1992 windlass

Thank Tom, we will do that and figure out what is the real power of this windlass, we are finishing the refit of this Santorin here in Annapolis before going to the Pacific. We bought her in Spain last june and now renewing the headliner. Hope to see down here in the fall.

Regards

J-P Massicotte
S/V Vanille, Santorin #51
Le 2013-06-26 à 10:38, Fisher, Thomas W. a écrit :

Hi Jean-Pierre,

I believe if you remove the cover, the motor will have a plate or be stamped with info that will lead you to its specs. and from there to the correct brushes. Likely the only way to know for certain.

Tom Fisher
Sheila, Sharki #142
Kingston, Canada

________________________________
From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of jp_nikan
Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2013 09:55
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Re: Lofran Tigre 1992 windlass

Thank Tom and Craig, the only problem i don't know if my unit is a 1000W or a 1200W.
Imtra list 2 differents parts numbers for the brushes.

Jean-Pierre Massicotte
Santorin Vanille #51

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>, "sv Sangaris" <sangaris@...> wrote:

Tom's right about the switch. It's readily available from chandlers - I spotted them just last week. Also, go to Lofrans website and they list the brushes under "spare parts".
Craig Briggs
s/v SANGARIS, SN68

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>, "Fisher, Thomas W." <fishert@> wrote:

Hi
The switch installed on the motor cover is an Amel modification. You can still get the switches from Amel the last time I check. Others have posted alternatives that I certain work out fine. Try searching older posts and you should find several of ideas if I recall.


Tom Fisher
Sheila, Sharki #142
Kingston, Canada


________________________________
From:
amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogrou
ps.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com<mailto:amelyachtowners%40y
ahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of jp_nikan
Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2013 17:43
To:
amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogrou
ps.com>
Subject: [Amel] Lofran Tigre 1992 windlass



I recently purchased Amel Santorin # 51 1992, the windlass i believe is an older version of the Tigre with the control switches mounted on the cover. I would like to get the parts number for those control switches and the brushes for the motor. Anyone has this in their files?





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


Yacht Brokers

EdisonR <roque@...>
 

Hi all

This Forum has a lot of info about where to get parts and services all over the world. I've used a lot of them (by the way, Sheri Moon -Trans Atlantic Diesel- said hello to John "Moon Dog" and Joel Potter)

But when someone wants to buy/sell an Amel and reach for us for help, there is almost nothing about Yacht Brokers (with the exception of Joel Potter in USA, who does a great job here in this forum).

A friend wants to sell his SM. And I can only refer him to the Broker who helped me buy my boat. But if his Amel is in another ocean, this won't be helpful. We all will have to let go our Amel sometime in the future. Me too. And we will be facing the same issue.

Maybe we could put together here in this thread our comments about Brokers around the world who are familiar with Amel. Those you know, first hand, that are good professional. Also websites to market, prices of real deals, etc, etc. Anything that will help to sell or buy an Amel.

I don't mean we will guarantee the broker's work, as much as we don't guarantee a parts provider. But we could at least say: "Smith" did a great job selling my former Amel in Germany (or Australia, South America, Turkey...) 2010. You can reach him at....!

So if you think this will be helpful for the group as well as wannabe Amel owners, send your contribution.

Rgds

Roque
Atica
Amel54


Re: [Amel] Amel 54 chain counter

Dimitris Krassopoulos <dkra@...>
 

I repaired the problem by replacing the sensor.

Regards and fair winds

Dimitris
Alma Libre Too

-----Original Message-----
From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Roque
Sent: Monday, June 24, 2013 9:19 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel] Amel 54 chain counter

What kind of problem, exactly?

Roque
Atica
Amel 54


2013/6/24 Dimitris <dkra@otenet.gr>

**


I am facing a problem with the chain counter. I found that the magnet
is in place and the sensor as well. Can somebody help me? Perhaps I
need a reset or a calibration.

Regards

Dimitris
Alma Libre Too
Amel 54







------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: [Amel] John-- Motor lifting block on mizzen boom

Anne and John Hollamby <annejohnholl@...>
 

Hi Eric,Sorry for the delay, I have checked with the other UK company, Barton, and it is not in their catalogue so no luck. Discontinued perhaps? John

From: Sailorman
Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2013 7:34 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Amel] John-- Motor lifting block on mizzen boom


????????????????????

-----Original Message-----
From: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
[mailto:mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Anne and John Hollamby
Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2013 1:33 AM
To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel] John-- Motor lifting block on mizzen boom

chunk x BG
On 25 Jun 2013 22:37, "Sailorman" <mailto:kimberlite%40optonline.net> wrote:

**


Hi John,

I thought the block was a lewmar but I could not find it in the catalog
(it
is Marked England) I also tried Bowman also no luck.

Are you able to find it on the Lewmar site?

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

From: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
[mailto:mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Anne and John
Hollamby
Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2013 11:44 AM
To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel] Motor lifting block on mizzen boom

Hi Eric,
It is a small Lewmar block which had been fully disassembled and only the
sheave perhaps with its bearing and the two cheeks are used.
Regards, John Bali Hai SM 319 Malta

From: Sailorman
Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2013 2:59 AM
To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [Amel] Motor lifting block on mizzen boom

Hi,

Does anyone know the maker of the block ( I think it was originally a
fiddle
block) that Amel uses on the end of mizzen boom to lift the Outboard out
of
the stern locker ?

I believe it was on later model Amel Super Maramus

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

I am using the Free version of SPAMfighter <http://www.spamfighter.com/len
.
SPAMfighter has removed 1640 of my spam emails to date.

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http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen>
Try a free scan!



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

------------------------------------

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SPAMfighter has removed 1662 of my spam emails to date.
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Re: Onan

Jim Anderson
 

I agree too: excellent troubleshooting instructions for the Onan MDKAV, Gary, thank you!

May I add one more thing? Not because I'm an expert by any means but just because this happened to me. My problem was that the generator thought it had a problem, but it didn't. It would not allow itself to be started or run even though nothing was wrong with it. The problem was the "PCB Control Board, (new) part #327-1533.

Each time I tried to start the generator it would crank but not run. Then it gave the fault code for insufficient raw-water cooling.(I'm not aboard now but 5 flashes of the light if I remember correctly.) The raw water flow sensor was good and I had just replaced the impeller. The generator even pumped plenty of water out of the exhaust while cranking so I knew that what the generator was "thinking" was wrong and determined the problem was the PCB Control board. When I went to order a new one I was told that the original part number had been superseded by a new part, part #327-1533. I unplugged the old board, pluged in the new one and it ran perfectly. I should mention that it took quite a while to get to the circuit board. Not difficult but allot of screws to remove.

I hope no one else has this problem but since Onan discontinued the old part and superseded it with a new one it makes me think that maybe the old one had problems, as I experienced.

Best,

Jim
SM384 Sirena Azul

On Jun 28, 2013, at 1:02, amelliahona <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Hi Trevor:

Perhaps you have already solved your problem but let me seek some clarification on your problem. Do you have the shop manual for your genet?

1. I am confused from your post whether this is a problem with the engine cranking or whether this is a problem with the engine running.

a) If the engine suddenly stops, in my experience, this is usually due to one the several sensors on the engine (sea water temp over heat, low oil pressure, etc) telling the engine to shut down. You need to methodically work through each sensor (I don't have my shop manual here but I think there are at least 6 different sensors). They may actually be sensing a fault condition or there may be a faulty sensor, you will have to determine what is the case and repair accordingly. The sensors are mostly either normally open or normally closed switches and can be tested using a multi-meter.

b) If the engine won't crank (turn over as in trying to start it) then you have one of four problems;NOTE: THESE ENGINES HAVE TWO STARTER MOTOR SOLENOIDS (aka CONTACTORS). There is one on the + side and one on the - or ground side. Both solenoids have to work for the starter motor to work crank the engine.

1- a faulty positive side (12 VDC) contactor, check to see if you have 12 volts on the supply side of this contractor, then see if you have 12 volts on the output side of the contractor while someone tries to crank the motor with the start switch, if you have 12 volts in and 12 volts out when activated then this contactor is ok next ,
2- a faulty negative or earth side contractor (starter to ground on the tray). This contactor is mounted below the starter motor and is somewhat out of sight unless you bend way over. If you bypass this contactor you will NOT harm your engine. If bypassing this contactor allows the engine to crank when the start switch is activated then you either have a bad ground or a faulty ground side contactor.
3- a faulty starter motor, If you can measure 12 volts on the supply to the starter motor with your multimeter when the start switch is activated and you have a known good ground side contactor and known good positive side contactor, yet the motor won't crank, then your starter motor is faulty. Just to verify this you can remove the starter motor and take it to a shop to have it tested and/or repaired.
4- a faulty starter switch. If you don't see 12 volts on the control line to the contractors (both + and - side contractors) when the start switch is activated, then you probably have a faulty starter switch.

Once again, cranking (the engine being turned over by the starter motor) is a whole different problem from running. If you have already solved this, please let us know what you found. If not, give us some more details and perhaps we can add some more suggestions.

Best of luck,

Gary Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM2000 Hull #335
on the hard at Jolly Harbor, Antigua


Re: fixed blade propeller

jsrogers47 <jsrogers@...>
 

Miles:
The fixed prop of my 1993 Super Maramu is brass and stamped 2116 LH55. I believe it is original to the boat and the Perkins 80 hp engine. Hope this helps

John S. Rogers
S/V It's Good
South Bristol, Maine

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "milesbidwell" <mbidwell@...> wrote:

I have just discovered that the fixed blade propeller for my Super Maramu has been stolen from the engine room. Does anyone know what the propeller is and where it can be replaced in the USA?

Miles on Ladybug (sm 216) Newport, RI


Re: [Amel] HATCHES AND PORTLIGHT REPLACEMENT- MARAMU

jsrogers47 <jsrogers@...>
 

Hi Alex:
I have removed and resealed my forward cabin roof hatch. The hatch is secured by screws from the underside which are countersunk and concealed beneath a layer of epoxy. After removing the interior teak trim you may see a dimple as an indication of where the screws are buried, or it might take some exploratory digging. Either way the trim will cover over your work.

John Rogers
SM #105
S/V It's Good
South Bristol, ME

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, woods deborah <woodsdeborah_56@...> wrote:

Alex

We have replaced all the plexiglass to the side panel windows and the hatches.
John is sailing in Ireland at the moment He will be back tomorrow and I will get
him to give a more comprehensive reply. However it was not to difficult we used
sicaflex UV adhesive and loads of baby wipes to wipe off the excess. John made
up a tool to help tightened the screws in the side panels which is really a two
man job.The windows have now been in for two seasons with no problems

Deb and John

Orion1
Maramu #42





________________________________
From: Alex <alex.paquin@...>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Fri, 22 April, 2011 1:55:43
Subject: [Amel] HATCHES AND PORTLIGHT REPLACEMENT- MARAMU



We are planning to replace our Maramu side plexiglass panels and remove the four
hatches and re-install. Can anyone having done this offer any advice regarding
our intended project?

- Adhesives used
- Procedures

Has anyone replaced the plexiglass on the Goiot hatches themselves? Any problems
sealing the plastic to the aluminum frame?

Alex Paquin
Simpatico
Hull #94, 1981




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Onan

Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
 

I found the minimum CCA Cold Cranking Amps required by the Onan MDKAV. It is 360 amps at 12.0 volts.

Now I need to compute the loss of amperage based on the approximately 5 meter run of wire from the battery. If anyone can help with this it will be appreciated. I am not on the boat until next week and I am not sure of the wire size.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
On the hard in Gocek, Turkey with Emek Marine

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@...> wrote:

Gary & all,

Does anyone know how many amps are pulled in the starting cycle?
Starter = ?amps
Glow Plugs = ?amps
Computer, etc = ?amps

I think that in some cases hard starting may be the result of low amperage delivered to the genset. As you know the wire run from the starting battery to the genset is something like 5-6 meters. I have suspected that a higher cranking amp starter battery and/or larger gauge wire, or both is in order. I have found that cleaning positive and negative wire termination points improve Onan starting. This leads me to believe that amps delivered to the starter motor is critical.

I am aware that some owners have increased the positive and negative wire size, some have located a battery closer and some have increased the size of the starting battery. What I would like to know is the amps required vs the amps delivered.

Hope this helps or adds to the discussion.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
On the hard in Gocek, Turkey with Emek Marine


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, amelliahona <no_reply@> wrote:

Hi Trevor:

Perhaps you have already solved your problem but let me seek some clarification on your problem. Do you have the shop manual for your genet?

1. I am confused from your post whether this is a problem with the engine cranking or whether this is a problem with the engine running.

a) If the engine suddenly stops, in my experience, this is usually due to one the several sensors on the engine (sea water temp over heat, low oil pressure, etc) telling the engine to shut down. You need to methodically work through each sensor (I don't have my shop manual here but I think there are at least 6 different sensors). They may actually be sensing a fault condition or there may be a faulty sensor, you will have to determine what is the case and repair accordingly. The sensors are mostly either normally open or normally closed switches and can be tested using a multi-meter.

b) If the engine won't crank (turn over as in trying to start it) then you have one of four problems;NOTE: THESE ENGINES HAVE TWO STARTER MOTOR SOLENOIDS (aka CONTACTORS). There is one on the + side and one on the - or ground side. Both solenoids have to work for the starter motor to work crank the engine.

1- a faulty positive side (12 VDC) contactor, check to see if you have 12 volts on the supply side of this contractor, then see if you have 12 volts on the output side of the contractor while someone tries to crank the motor with the start switch, if you have 12 volts in and 12 volts out when activated then this contactor is ok next ,
2- a faulty negative or earth side contractor (starter to ground on the tray). This contactor is mounted below the starter motor and is somewhat out of sight unless you bend way over. If you bypass this contactor you will NOT harm your engine. If bypassing this contactor allows the engine to crank when the start switch is activated then you either have a bad ground or a faulty ground side contactor.
3- a faulty starter motor, If you can measure 12 volts on the supply to the starter motor with your multimeter when the start switch is activated and you have a known good ground side contactor and known good positive side contactor, yet the motor won't crank, then your starter motor is faulty. Just to verify this you can remove the starter motor and take it to a shop to have it tested and/or repaired.
4- a faulty starter switch. If you don't see 12 volts on the control line to the contractors (both + and - side contractors) when the start switch is activated, then you probably have a faulty starter switch.

Once again, cranking (the engine being turned over by the starter motor) is a whole different problem from running. If you have already solved this, please let us know what you found. If not, give us some more details and perhaps we can add some more suggestions.

Best of luck,

Gary Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM2000 Hull #335
on the hard at Jolly Harbor, Antigua



--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "seafeverofcuan" <seafeverofcuan@> wrote:

Dear All,
my generator stopped dead while running a few days ago. No flashing lights. It cranked a couple of times then silence
I have checked the raw water, fresh water,systems, changed the fuel pump, a suspect earth strap from the solenoid to the tray . I have 12.7 volts at the solenoid if I short the terminals the engine will crank, but I don't want to let in run incase of further damage.
I have swopped over the relays for the starter under the white casing lid, but nothing all I get is the flashing green light at the start switch for a few seconds, I can feel the new fuel pimp working but no engine cranking.
The genset had a new rotor,stator and control panel last October at 1000 hours after burning out.
If anyone can shed some light I would be most grateful. I am in Mazatlan Mexico where the local service companies are willing but have no knowledge or access to Onan.
Many thanks.
Trevor

Seafever of Cuan
No 425


Re: Onan

Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Gary & all,

Does anyone know how many amps are pulled in the starting cycle?
Starter = ?amps
Glow Plugs = ?amps
Computer, etc = ?amps

I think that in some cases hard starting may be the result of low amperage delivered to the genset. As you know the wire run from the starting battery to the genset is something like 5-6 meters. I have suspected that a higher cranking amp starter battery and/or larger gauge wire, or both is in order. I have found that cleaning positive and negative wire termination points improve Onan starting. This leads me to believe that amps delivered to the starter motor is critical.

I am aware that some owners have increased the positive and negative wire size, some have located a battery closer and some have increased the size of the starting battery. What I would like to know is the amps required vs the amps delivered.

Hope this helps or adds to the discussion.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
On the hard in Gocek, Turkey with Emek Marine

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, amelliahona <no_reply@...> wrote:

Hi Trevor:

Perhaps you have already solved your problem but let me seek some clarification on your problem. Do you have the shop manual for your genet?

1. I am confused from your post whether this is a problem with the engine cranking or whether this is a problem with the engine running.

a) If the engine suddenly stops, in my experience, this is usually due to one the several sensors on the engine (sea water temp over heat, low oil pressure, etc) telling the engine to shut down. You need to methodically work through each sensor (I don't have my shop manual here but I think there are at least 6 different sensors). They may actually be sensing a fault condition or there may be a faulty sensor, you will have to determine what is the case and repair accordingly. The sensors are mostly either normally open or normally closed switches and can be tested using a multi-meter.

b) If the engine won't crank (turn over as in trying to start it) then you have one of four problems;NOTE: THESE ENGINES HAVE TWO STARTER MOTOR SOLENOIDS (aka CONTACTORS). There is one on the + side and one on the - or ground side. Both solenoids have to work for the starter motor to work crank the engine.

1- a faulty positive side (12 VDC) contactor, check to see if you have 12 volts on the supply side of this contractor, then see if you have 12 volts on the output side of the contractor while someone tries to crank the motor with the start switch, if you have 12 volts in and 12 volts out when activated then this contactor is ok next ,
2- a faulty negative or earth side contractor (starter to ground on the tray). This contactor is mounted below the starter motor and is somewhat out of sight unless you bend way over. If you bypass this contactor you will NOT harm your engine. If bypassing this contactor allows the engine to crank when the start switch is activated then you either have a bad ground or a faulty ground side contactor.
3- a faulty starter motor, If you can measure 12 volts on the supply to the starter motor with your multimeter when the start switch is activated and you have a known good ground side contactor and known good positive side contactor, yet the motor won't crank, then your starter motor is faulty. Just to verify this you can remove the starter motor and take it to a shop to have it tested and/or repaired.
4- a faulty starter switch. If you don't see 12 volts on the control line to the contractors (both + and - side contractors) when the start switch is activated, then you probably have a faulty starter switch.

Once again, cranking (the engine being turned over by the starter motor) is a whole different problem from running. If you have already solved this, please let us know what you found. If not, give us some more details and perhaps we can add some more suggestions.

Best of luck,

Gary Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM2000 Hull #335
on the hard at Jolly Harbor, Antigua



--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "seafeverofcuan" <seafeverofcuan@> wrote:

Dear All,
my generator stopped dead while running a few days ago. No flashing lights. It cranked a couple of times then silence
I have checked the raw water, fresh water,systems, changed the fuel pump, a suspect earth strap from the solenoid to the tray . I have 12.7 volts at the solenoid if I short the terminals the engine will crank, but I don't want to let in run incase of further damage.
I have swopped over the relays for the starter under the white casing lid, but nothing all I get is the flashing green light at the start switch for a few seconds, I can feel the new fuel pimp working but no engine cranking.
The genset had a new rotor,stator and control panel last October at 1000 hours after burning out.
If anyone can shed some light I would be most grateful. I am in Mazatlan Mexico where the local service companies are willing but have no knowledge or access to Onan.
Many thanks.
Trevor

Seafever of Cuan
No 425


Re: Onan - recalling Onan fault codes

Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Gary and All,

I was doing some research on our Onan generator and learned how to recall a fault code stored in the genset. I have not tried this, but the source is reliable:

Go to the genset and use the switch on the set itself.

Press 'Stop' 3 times within 5 seconds. The light in the switch will start flashing.

If the light flashes 3 times, pauses for 3 seconds, and flashes 3 more times, press and immediately release 'Stop' one more time.
This will put the controller into Fault Read Mode.

The light will flash (X) number of times, pause for 1 second, and flash for (X) number of times again. Count the flashes before and after the pause.
This will be the Fault Code.

Example: 2 rapid flashes, 1 second pause, 5 rapid flashes is a Fault Code 25.

There may be more than one Fault Code stored, so watch the light very carefully. If there is more than one code, it will display them all in order, and then start over again.

Be very careful not to misread a first level fault code (single digit code) as a seconds level fault code (double digit code).
The way to tell the difference is by the length of the pauses.
There is a 1 second pause between digits of a second level code, and a 3 second pause between code.

For example, if it is flashing 2 times, 1 second pause, flashing 2 times, 3 second pause and repeating, then this is a second level fault code of 22.

If it is flashing 2 times, 3 second pause, flashing 2 times, 3 second pause and repeating, then this is a first level fault code of 2.

I will try this next week.

Best,

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
On the hard in Gocek, Turkey with Emek Marine

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, amelliahona <no_reply@...> wrote:

Hi Trevor:

Perhaps you have already solved your problem but let me seek some clarification on your problem. Do you have the shop manual for your genet?

1. I am confused from your post whether this is a problem with the engine cranking or whether this is a problem with the engine running.

a) If the engine suddenly stops, in my experience, this is usually due to one the several sensors on the engine (sea water temp over heat, low oil pressure, etc) telling the engine to shut down. You need to methodically work through each sensor (I don't have my shop manual here but I think there are at least 6 different sensors). They may actually be sensing a fault condition or there may be a faulty sensor, you will have to determine what is the case and repair accordingly. The sensors are mostly either normally open or normally closed switches and can be tested using a multi-meter.

b) If the engine won't crank (turn over as in trying to start it) then you have one of four problems;NOTE: THESE ENGINES HAVE TWO STARTER MOTOR SOLENOIDS (aka CONTACTORS). There is one on the + side and one on the - or ground side. Both solenoids have to work for the starter motor to work crank the engine.

1- a faulty positive side (12 VDC) contactor, check to see if you have 12 volts on the supply side of this contractor, then see if you have 12 volts on the output side of the contractor while someone tries to crank the motor with the start switch, if you have 12 volts in and 12 volts out when activated then this contactor is ok next ,
2- a faulty negative or earth side contractor (starter to ground on the tray). This contactor is mounted below the starter motor and is somewhat out of sight unless you bend way over. If you bypass this contactor you will NOT harm your engine. If bypassing this contactor allows the engine to crank when the start switch is activated then you either have a bad ground or a faulty ground side contactor.
3- a faulty starter motor, If you can measure 12 volts on the supply to the starter motor with your multimeter when the start switch is activated and you have a known good ground side contactor and known good positive side contactor, yet the motor won't crank, then your starter motor is faulty. Just to verify this you can remove the starter motor and take it to a shop to have it tested and/or repaired.
4- a faulty starter switch. If you don't see 12 volts on the control line to the contractors (both + and - side contractors) when the start switch is activated, then you probably have a faulty starter switch.

Once again, cranking (the engine being turned over by the starter motor) is a whole different problem from running. If you have already solved this, please let us know what you found. If not, give us some more details and perhaps we can add some more suggestions.

Best of luck,

Gary Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM2000 Hull #335
on the hard at Jolly Harbor, Antigua



--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "seafeverofcuan" <seafeverofcuan@> wrote:

Dear All,
my generator stopped dead while running a few days ago. No flashing lights. It cranked a couple of times then silence
I have checked the raw water, fresh water,systems, changed the fuel pump, a suspect earth strap from the solenoid to the tray . I have 12.7 volts at the solenoid if I short the terminals the engine will crank, but I don't want to let in run incase of further damage.
I have swopped over the relays for the starter under the white casing lid, but nothing all I get is the flashing green light at the start switch for a few seconds, I can feel the new fuel pimp working but no engine cranking.
The genset had a new rotor,stator and control panel last October at 1000 hours after burning out.
If anyone can shed some light I would be most grateful. I am in Mazatlan Mexico where the local service companies are willing but have no knowledge or access to Onan.
Many thanks.
Trevor

Seafever of Cuan
No 425


Re: Genoa Car Removal

Craig Briggs
 

Hi Ian,

Good to meet you at the Lakki, Leros dock last week. Sorry to hear of your genny car failure.

As you know, we're a Santorin, but I suspect our genoa track is quite similar. We removed the forward end block - you may have to cut through the upper lining of the cabinet below to get at the nut. On our boat one side had the nut captured in the fiberglass layup and the other side the nut fell loose - a two person job to unscrew/retighten.

Our cars were by Antal - the Italian company - just Google them. We needed new springs that hold the pulley upright, but Amel had welded the bolts closed, so I shipped it to Antal and they fixed it at no cost - covering shipping costs back to the US over the winter. Great folks!

We're in Gumushluk, but may head to Lakki after this blow subsides Sunday - will look for you.

Cheers,
Craig and Katherine Briggs
S/v SANGARIS, SN 68

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Ian Shepherd <sv_freespirit@...> wrote:

Has anyone removed their genoa car from its track on a Super Maramu? It
will not slide past the aft chain-plate. Maybe removing the forward
block and the nearby stanchion might work, but I would rather hear from
someone who has successfully got the traveller off this way first. I
wish to avoid remove the track if at all possible.

Yesterday whilst sheeting in the genoa, there was a bang followed by the
car roller shooting through the air closely followed by the ball
bearings, never to be seen again of course. It would seem the nut
holding the roller axle had come undone. It would be a good idea to
Locktite these nuts in future as there is very little thread left when
the nut is tight so it soon comes off once it works loose.

I have yet to discover whether spare parts are easily available. I would
imagine I am in for a complete new unit, at least in the short term.

Ian Shepherd SM2000 414 Crusader Leros Dodecanese Greece