Date   

considering a Maramu 46

frank <frankgrek@...>
 

hey maramu 46 owners,

i was wondering if there are any of you in southern california who would be kind enough to let me come aboard and see your boat. i'm narrowing down my boat choices and the amel maramu 46 is at the top of my list...but my biggest problem is that i haven't been aboard one yet. lol.

i'm in LA but will drive wherever i need to be to see your boat.

thanks,
frank


Re: Onan

seafeverofcuan <seafeverofcuan@...>
 

Hi Gary,
Thank you again. The symptoms that you describe do sound identical so I will follow your advice.
We are back home in Ireland and as yet don't know when we will return but I will keep you posted.
Kind regards,
Trevor

Sea Fever of Cuan
Sm 425

Ireland

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, amelliahona <no_reply@...> wrote:

Hi Trevor,

I have read your post several times and I believe I know what your problem is. I had a similar problem in that my Kubota engine would intermittently not crank, either from the galley switch or the engine control panel switch. Sometimes it would crank fine, next time it would crank, but at a sluggish rate etc, and then the next time it wouldn't crank at all. I believe that you have a faulty ground side contractor that either has high internal resistance or a sticky solenoid. To verify this, totally by pass the ground side contactor. Wire directly from the ground lug on the starter motor to the engine frame ground or the engine tray ground using a wire the size of the battery wire that supplies the starter motor. If your cranking problem is solved then replace the ground side contractor at your leisure as it isn't necessary except as a means of preventing stray current corrosion. In my case it was the ground side contractor that was the problem. Of course it could be an intermittent or high resistance positive side contractor. The reason a high resistance contactor might allow for partial cranking is that as current flows through the high resistance it heat up and can break the contact etc. so you get all kinds of intermittent or slow/sluggish cranking. Internally these contactors are two copper discs that are pulled together by the solenoid providing a large surface area contact for the heavy current flow (hence the name contractor). Each time the open and close there is some electrical arching that eventually can cause high resistance or warping of the contactor plates.

I believe removing the glow plug relay really was totally unrelated to your getting the engine to crank during the next cycle attempt after its removal. The glow plugs aren't necessary to start the engine, especially in warm climates, and I think the intermittent contractor problem just serendipitously allowed the engine to crank after you did this.

As for the engine intermittently stopping without any indication of a real fault, this sounds like a loose spade connector, corrosion at a spade connector that is sensitive to heat or vibration, perhaps a cold solder joint on a circuit board etc. You might try removing each spade connector in the the control box and elsewhere and treating with a touch of Corrosion X, inspecting and re-insterting. Trouble shooting this type of intermittency can be frustrating and tedious. Your can rule out a faulty sensor by bypassing each one during a typical run and substituting your eyes & pre-start/run-time inspections to make sure everything is well, (e.g. verify the sea water impeller is ok and that water is being pumped which I think you did, verify the oil level is full and that the engine isn't overheating with your IR thermometer, verify that the exhaust temp is ok with the IR thermometer etc as you bypass each sensor).

As for the burned out stator, "stuff happens", darn it all. But as an aid to help prolong the life of the generator, we try to run the genset under NO electrical load for five minutes prior to shutting down to allow the windings to cool. Same with the desalinator motors etc. Not a sure fire preventative measure but heat is the enemy of all things electrical and this can't hurt.

Good luck and share with us what you find.

Gary Silver
s/v Liahona



--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "seafeverofcuan" <seafeverofcuan@> wrote:

Dear Gary,
Thank you so much for such an informed response. A copy of that has already been saved to the ship's computer, it's a pity Onan couldn't explain there own product range in such a straight forward and succinct manner.
The generator burnt out the stator and had to be rebuilt in August last year, since then the Kubota engine never ran smoothly and often shut down indicating an over heating problem. Our laser thermometer always proved it wrong and we simply restarted it and it would run for between twenty minutes and four hours the shut itself down as overheating
and I couldn't source the problem, it was never overheated.
This time the engine stopped dead during normal running while using the washing machine.
Strangely there was no code light, so I was stuck to diagnose the problem, therefore I started from scratch.
First up only 10.65 volts at the starter which proved to be the earth strap from the starter relay to the tray, it looked fine yet when I tugged it, it parted in my hand.
New strap and 12.3 volts up the line from the battery to the starter, yet still no warning code and the engine would not crank .
I employed the local highly recommended service company who are not Onan agents they sent two technicians neither of whom could get it to crank and walked away.
So I went right back to basics again, air, fuel, power, during these checks I pushed the start switch really quickly three times in frustration, and up popped four flashes for over charging.
So even further confused, I followed to the letter, the instructions and got half a crank which made me think there might be an airlock.
So I opened the bleed nut, put a diaper over it cranked some more but still no go. then I switched around the two
K3 AND K4 relays, no difference.
For no good reason I removed the K3 relay which powers the glow plugs, it cranked and started.
I let it run a while shut it down and restarted. Tried it the next morning and it wouldn't crank or start, repeated the process without bleeding and it started although it would not start from the galley switch.
When I left the boat in Mexico it was starting from both switches and running fine and I think that I probably have a problem with either a short in the glow plugs or the starter switch on the generator either or both occasionally drawing voltage away from the starter, certainly Bill's posting re. battery and cables would indicate that as a possibility.
The help line at Onan was worse that useless, never taking time to read my emails and suggesting all sorts of really stupid solutions.
I am now back in Ireland and still waiting for them to tell me who their marine agent is in Mexico.
When I return I intend to be well armed with replacement parts.
Hopefully there is some learning in here somewhere for the group and thank you very much for your help.
Kind regards,

Trevor

Sea Fever of Cuan
Sm425
Ireland



--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@> wrote:

I found the minimum CCA Cold Cranking Amps required by the Onan MDKAV. It is 360 amps at 12.0 volts.

Now I need to compute the loss of amperage based on the approximately 5 meter run of wire from the battery. If anyone can help with this it will be appreciated. I am not on the boat until next week and I am not sure of the wire size.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
On the hard in Gocek, Turkey with Emek Marine


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@> wrote:

Gary & all,

Does anyone know how many amps are pulled in the starting cycle?
Starter = ?amps
Glow Plugs = ?amps
Computer, etc = ?amps

I think that in some cases hard starting may be the result of low amperage delivered to the genset. As you know the wire run from the starting battery to the genset is something like 5-6 meters. I have suspected that a higher cranking amp starter battery and/or larger gauge wire, or both is in order. I have found that cleaning positive and negative wire termination points improve Onan starting. This leads me to believe that amps delivered to the starter motor is critical.

I am aware that some owners have increased the positive and negative wire size, some have located a battery closer and some have increased the size of the starting battery. What I would like to know is the amps required vs the amps delivered.

Hope this helps or adds to the discussion.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
On the hard in Gocek, Turkey with Emek Marine


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, amelliahona <no_reply@> wrote:

Hi Trevor:

Perhaps you have already solved your problem but let me seek some clarification on your problem. Do you have the shop manual for your genet?

1. I am confused from your post whether this is a problem with the engine cranking or whether this is a problem with the engine running.

a) If the engine suddenly stops, in my experience, this is usually due to one the several sensors on the engine (sea water temp over heat, low oil pressure, etc) telling the engine to shut down. You need to methodically work through each sensor (I don't have my shop manual here but I think there are at least 6 different sensors). They may actually be sensing a fault condition or there may be a faulty sensor, you will have to determine what is the case and repair accordingly. The sensors are mostly either normally open or normally closed switches and can be tested using a multi-meter.

b) If the engine won't crank (turn over as in trying to start it) then you have one of four problems;NOTE: THESE ENGINES HAVE TWO STARTER MOTOR SOLENOIDS (aka CONTACTORS). There is one on the + side and one on the - or ground side. Both solenoids have to work for the starter motor to work crank the engine.

1- a faulty positive side (12 VDC) contactor, check to see if you have 12 volts on the supply side of this contractor, then see if you have 12 volts on the output side of the contractor while someone tries to crank the motor with the start switch, if you have 12 volts in and 12 volts out when activated then this contactor is ok next ,
2- a faulty negative or earth side contractor (starter to ground on the tray). This contactor is mounted below the starter motor and is somewhat out of sight unless you bend way over. If you bypass this contactor you will NOT harm your engine. If bypassing this contactor allows the engine to crank when the start switch is activated then you either have a bad ground or a faulty ground side contactor.
3- a faulty starter motor, If you can measure 12 volts on the supply to the starter motor with your multimeter when the start switch is activated and you have a known good ground side contactor and known good positive side contactor, yet the motor won't crank, then your starter motor is faulty. Just to verify this you can remove the starter motor and take it to a shop to have it tested and/or repaired.
4- a faulty starter switch. If you don't see 12 volts on the control line to the contractors (both + and - side contractors) when the start switch is activated, then you probably have a faulty starter switch.

Once again, cranking (the engine being turned over by the starter motor) is a whole different problem from running. If you have already solved this, please let us know what you found. If not, give us some more details and perhaps we can add some more suggestions.

Best of luck,

Gary Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM2000 Hull #335
on the hard at Jolly Harbor, Antigua



--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "seafeverofcuan" <seafeverofcuan@> wrote:

Dear All,
my generator stopped dead while running a few days ago. No flashing lights. It cranked a couple of times then silence
I have checked the raw water, fresh water,systems, changed the fuel pump, a suspect earth strap from the solenoid to the tray . I have 12.7 volts at the solenoid if I short the terminals the engine will crank, but I don't want to let in run incase of further damage.
I have swopped over the relays for the starter under the white casing lid, but nothing all I get is the flashing green light at the start switch for a few seconds, I can feel the new fuel pimp working but no engine cranking.
The genset had a new rotor,stator and control panel last October at 1000 hours after burning out.
If anyone can shed some light I would be most grateful. I am in Mazatlan Mexico where the local service companies are willing but have no knowledge or access to Onan.
Many thanks.
Trevor

Seafever of Cuan
No 425


Halyard retainer

ric@...
 

I have a 1990 Santorin sloop with 2 stainless steel bars on the jib swivel/halyard. Can replace this with a halyard retainer? The weight is significant and i have had breakage issues.

Ric Gottschalk
Kitchen Magic Refacers, Inc
Office 410-923-5800
Fax 410-923-5802


Re: FW: [Amel] Audio Speakers for cockpit

Mark Erdos
 

Inside the speakers the cones are deteriorating. They work but the
sound is crappy. The port side speaker is now barely audible.

Mark
SM2k #275
www.creampuff.us


Re: [Amel] Audio Speakers for cockpit

Maria Geiger
 

Dear all,

Ohhh yeahhh PITU is already on the way after a lot of work in St. Raphael : new motor Nanni 115cv, auto pilot ... Etc etc...
We have installed the radio Fusion with Fusion speakers. 3 zones ... Great son!
In America you can also have a Sirius antenna with weather forecast and link everything to your sea talk from Raymarine.
Also we have set a control from the cockpit .

Now in Vulcano (Iles Eoliennes - Sicilia

Kind regards and nice summer!

Maria Geiger
S.Y. PITU SM No. 148





Le 3 juil. 2013 à 11:03, "Anne and John Hollamby " <annejohnholl@gmail.com> a écrit :

Hello Mark,
When we got our boat it had some awful small shielded speakers.I replaced them with some circular ones which involved enlarging the holes and using plenty of sealant. The first ones that I bought seriously affected the compass. The next ones I got had no brand name but a logo like a steering wheel and they do not affect the compass. I picked them at a chandlery using a hand bearing compass on the counter and holding one of the speakers upright as it would be on the boat. Obviously it is only the one on the port side that may affect the compass.
Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM2k 319, Malta

From: captain_cucumber_head
Sent: Tuesday, July 2, 2013 6:29 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Audio Speakers for cockpit

Does anyone know of a replacement speaker that will replace the 4 1/4" square cockpit speakers. I think these maybe Amel originals (not sure).

I would like this to be an easy project. I was hoping to just pop in a couple of new ones using the same holes. Ha!

The hole cut out is round 3 3/4" the speakers are 4 1/4" square.

I have removed the speakers. They have no identifiable markings on them. Stumped!

Thanks,

Mark

SM2K #275
www.creampuff.us

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Audio Speakers for cockpit

Anne and John Hollamby <annejohnholl@...>
 

Hello Mark,
When we got our boat it had some awful small shielded speakers.I replaced them with some circular ones which involved enlarging the holes and using plenty of sealant. The first ones that I bought seriously affected the compass. The next ones I got had no brand name but a logo like a steering wheel and they do not affect the compass. I picked them at a chandlery using a hand bearing compass on the counter and holding one of the speakers upright as it would be on the boat. Obviously it is only the one on the port side that may affect the compass.
Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM2k 319, Malta


From: captain_cucumber_head
Sent: Tuesday, July 2, 2013 6:29 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Audio Speakers for cockpit


Does anyone know of a replacement speaker that will replace the 4 1/4" square cockpit speakers. I think these maybe Amel originals (not sure).

I would like this to be an easy project. I was hoping to just pop in a couple of new ones using the same holes. Ha!

The hole cut out is round 3 3/4" the speakers are 4 1/4" square.

I have removed the speakers. They have no identifiable markings on them. Stumped!

Thanks,

Mark

SM2K #275
www.creampuff.us





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


FW: [Amel] Audio Speakers for cockpit

amelforme
 

Hi Mark. Those speakers are installed as standard equipment by Amel when the
boat was built. You can go to any high-end car stereo/car alarm shop for
suitable replacements. Be sure to say that you want moisture proof speakers
or your installation will be temporary. Poly material or other weather proof
speaker cone products will ensure long term reliability it this very 'moist'
environment. A while back a client of mine did a web search and found
multiple sources available for good replacements. I believe he told me that
the stereo output likes to work with 8 ohm speakers as opposed to 4 ohm
speakers but you might want to check your stereo manual.



What happened to the originals?



All the best,

Joel





Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC

Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas

Mailing Address: 401 East Las Olas Boulevard #130-126

Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301

Phone: (954) 462-5869 Cell: (954) 812-2485

Email: jfpottercys@att.net





From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of captain_cucumber_head
Sent: Tuesday, July 02, 2013 12:29 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Audio Speakers for cockpit





Does anyone know of a replacement speaker that will replace the 4 1/4"
square cockpit speakers. I think these maybe Amel originals (not sure).

I would like this to be an easy project. I was hoping to just pop in a
couple of new ones using the same holes. Ha!

The hole cut out is round 3 3/4" the speakers are 4 1/4" square.

I have removed the speakers. They have no identifiable markings on them.
Stumped!

Thanks,

Mark

SM2K #275
www.creampuff.us


Re: [Amel] Audio Speakers for cockpit

Jean-Pierre massicotte <jp_nikan@...>
 

Mark, after 6 000 nautical miles of offshore sailing, still working pretty good, with the hard dodger hardly any water come close to the speakers. I was looking for replacement in Europe when we bought the boat and nothing was coming close to the existing ones, and all involve some sort of new backing plate etc etc.... That was my version of a quick fix.

________________________________
De : captain_cucumber_head <mcerdos@gmail.com>
À : amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Envoyé le : mardi 2 juillet 2013 15h20
Objet : Re: [Amel] Audio Speakers for cockpit



 
I would think the speakers would need to be made of a water resistant cone? Car speakers have paper cones.

Mark

SM2K #275
www.creampuff.us

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Jean-Pierre massicotte <jp_nikan@...> wrote:

Marc, we just remove the existing speakers from the housing and went around to find replacement from auto parts store. Those speaker have standard size.
Good shopping!

Jean-Pierre, Amel Santorin Vanille



________________________________
De : captain_cucumber_head <mcerdos@...>
À : amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Envoyé le : mardi 2 juillet 2013 12h29
Objet : [Amel] Audio Speakers for cockpit



 
Does anyone know of a replacement speaker that will replace the 4 1/4" square cockpit speakers. I think these maybe Amel originals (not sure).

I would like this to be an easy project. I was hoping to just pop in a couple of new ones using the same holes. Ha!

The hole cut out is round 3 3/4" the speakers are 4 1/4" square.

I have removed the speakers. They have no identifiable markings on them. Stumped!

Thanks,

Mark

SM2K #275
www.creampuff.us




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Audio Speakers for cockpit

Mark Erdos
 

I would think the speakers would need to be made of a water resistant cone? Car speakers have paper cones.

Mark

SM2K #275
www.creampuff.us

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Jean-Pierre massicotte <jp_nikan@...> wrote:

Marc, we just remove the existing speakers from the housing and went around to find replacement from auto parts store. Those speaker have standard size.
Good shopping!

Jean-Pierre, Amel Santorin Vanille



________________________________
De : captain_cucumber_head <mcerdos@...>
À : amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Envoyé le : mardi 2 juillet 2013 12h29
Objet : [Amel] Audio Speakers for cockpit



 
Does anyone know of a replacement speaker that will replace the 4 1/4" square cockpit speakers. I think these maybe Amel originals (not sure).

I would like this to be an easy project. I was hoping to just pop in a couple of new ones using the same holes. Ha!

The hole cut out is round 3 3/4" the speakers are 4 1/4" square.

I have removed the speakers. They have no identifiable markings on them. Stumped!

Thanks,

Mark

SM2K #275
www.creampuff.us




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Passing of Ted Hood

Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

One of the greatest America Yachtsmen has left us. May he RIP.

Regards
Richard Piller

Begin forwarded



The Hinckley Company is deeply saddened by the loss of Ted Hood.

Yachtsman, designer, builder, Ted Hood was a respected colleague whose accomplishments helped shape an industry. As part of his grand legacy we treasure the Little Harbor complex he founded in Portsmouth, Rhode Island, and we are inspired to continue in his tradition of innovation and commitment to the art and craft of yachting. As members of the Hinckley family, we extend our sincere condolences to the Hood family as they cherish the life of a great man.

To read more about the life of Ted Hood, please click here.



Frederick Emmart "Ted" Hood
May 5, 1927 - June 28, 2013
Forward this email

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Regards
Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Audio Speakers for cockpit

Jean-Pierre massicotte <jp_nikan@...>
 

Marc, we just remove the existing speakers from the housing and went around to find replacement from auto parts store. Those speaker have standard size.
Good shopping!

Jean-Pierre, Amel Santorin Vanille



________________________________
De : captain_cucumber_head <mcerdos@gmail.com>
À : amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Envoyé le : mardi 2 juillet 2013 12h29
Objet : [Amel] Audio Speakers for cockpit



 
Does anyone know of a replacement speaker that will replace the 4 1/4" square cockpit speakers. I think these maybe Amel originals (not sure).

I would like this to be an easy project. I was hoping to just pop in a couple of new ones using the same holes. Ha!

The hole cut out is round 3 3/4" the speakers are 4 1/4" square.

I have removed the speakers. They have no identifiable markings on them. Stumped!

Thanks,

Mark

SM2K #275
www.creampuff.us


Audio Speakers for cockpit

Mark Erdos
 

Does anyone know of a replacement speaker that will replace the 4 1/4" square cockpit speakers. I think these maybe Amel originals (not sure).

I would like this to be an easy project. I was hoping to just pop in a couple of new ones using the same holes. Ha!

The hole cut out is round 3 3/4" the speakers are 4 1/4" square.

I have removed the speakers. They have no identifiable markings on them. Stumped!

Thanks,

Mark

SM2K #275
www.creampuff.us


Re: [Amel] Re: Genoa Car Removal

Ian Shepherd
 

Thanks Bob,

sorry you had to take such measures. If the aft lifting plate was a
couple of mm further out then the car would slide clear. However as you
will see in my post to Sangaris, I was lucky to get the missing parts
and rebuild the car without removing it.

If anyone knows how to get the bar out of genoa traveller to replace the
springs, I would be grateful. It seems very much seized and
unfortunately it cannot be driven out as one end is capped.

Best wishes

Ian SM2000 414 Crusader

On 28/06/2013 11:37, minaxi53 wrote:


Ian
I had a similar problem with my main sheet traveller mid ocean.
Because the traveller is recessed in a channel on the deck there is no
way to get the car or end blocks off without removing the track from
the deck. As a quick fix we took a grinder to one end of the track and
ground off 3" from the lip of the track enabling the car to be lifted
off. Now the track is operating 3" short but many boats have much
shorter travelers anyway.
Bob
Minaxi sm6

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>, Ian Shepherd
<sv_freespirit@...> wrote:

Has anyone removed their genoa car from its track on a Super Maramu? It
will not slide past the aft chain-plate. Maybe removing the forward
block and the nearby stanchion might work, but I would rather hear from
someone who has successfully got the traveller off this way first. I
wish to avoid remove the track if at all possible.

Yesterday whilst sheeting in the genoa, there was a bang followed by
the
car roller shooting through the air closely followed by the ball
bearings, never to be seen again of course. It would seem the nut
holding the roller axle had come undone. It would be a good idea to
Locktite these nuts in future as there is very little thread left when
the nut is tight so it soon comes off once it works loose.

I have yet to discover whether spare parts are easily available. I
would
imagine I am in for a complete new unit, at least in the short term.

Ian Shepherd SM2000 414 Crusader Leros Dodecanese Greece


Re: [Amel] Re: Genoa Car Removal

Ian Shepherd
 

Hi Craig,

thanks for the advice. I tried to unscrew the forward block but the bolt
that doubles at the main boom preventer attachment was very stiff to
undo even after an overnight soaking in Corrosion Block. In the end I
did not have to remove the genoa car as unbelievably the Antal agent in
Athens did not have a new one but he did have one remaining set of the
parts that I needed. They arrived Monday after being ordered Friday
afternoon, and the car is now repaired and ready for sailing.

I need to start heading north and will aim for Patmos today with the
option of shelter or pushing on further north. Looks like I shall miss
you this time, but good to meet you last week. BTW there is a Santorin
sloop at anchor in Partheni Bay with a French crew on board.

Good sailing

Ian SM2000 414 Crusader

On 28/06/2013 20:04, sv Sangaris wrote:



Hi Ian,

Good to meet you at the Lakki, Leros dock last week. Sorry to hear of
your genny car failure.

As you know, we're a Santorin, but I suspect our genoa track is quite
similar. We removed the forward end block - you may have to cut
through the upper lining of the cabinet below to get at the nut. On
our boat one side had the nut captured in the fiberglass layup and the
other side the nut fell loose - a two person job to unscrew/retighten.

Our cars were by Antal - the Italian company - just Google them. We
needed new springs that hold the pulley upright, but Amel had welded
the bolts closed, so I shipped it to Antal and they fixed it at no
cost - covering shipping costs back to the US over the winter. Great
folks!

We're in Gumushluk, but may head to Lakki after this blow subsides
Sunday - will look for you.

Cheers,
Craig and Katherine Briggs
S/v SANGARIS, SN 68

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>, Ian Shepherd
<sv_freespirit@...> wrote:

Has anyone removed their genoa car from its track on a Super Maramu? It
will not slide past the aft chain-plate. Maybe removing the forward
block and the nearby stanchion might work, but I would rather hear from
someone who has successfully got the traveller off this way first. I
wish to avoid remove the track if at all possible.

Yesterday whilst sheeting in the genoa, there was a bang followed by
the
car roller shooting through the air closely followed by the ball
bearings, never to be seen again of course. It would seem the nut
holding the roller axle had come undone. It would be a good idea to
Locktite these nuts in future as there is very little thread left when
the nut is tight so it soon comes off once it works loose.

I have yet to discover whether spare parts are easily available. I
would
imagine I am in for a complete new unit, at least in the short term.

Ian Shepherd SM2000 414 Crusader Leros Dodecanese Greece


Re: [Amel] Yanmar ground solenoid

Mike Johnson
 

Dear Giovanni,
 
We had similar situations with solenoid.  Our cure is to regularly exercise the solenoid by depressing the 'black rubber' seal.
 
Kind regards
 
Mike
 
Solitude
SM2K 461

From: Giovanni Testa <gtesta23@tin.it>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, 2 July 2013, 5:25
Subject: [Amel] Yanmar ground solenoid

 


Hi to all,
at sunset , sailing Water Bligh, Fiji, I had to start my Yanmar to go to anchorage. Nothing…no engine. At the moment I remembered a similar situation when we were sailing Eolie, Italy. It was the ground solenoid fault. A W40 spray under the black rubber cover button solved the problem. And it was also in this very adrenalitic situation.
Now for me it is enough ! I want to eliminate/ bypass the ground solenoid.
Any suggestions ?
If I directly connect the 2 black cables, what about the others little cables arriving to solenoid ?
May I have problem to switch off the engine ?
Thanks so much in advance
Giovanni TESTA
Sv EUTIKIA, SM2K n 428




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Yanmar ground solenoid

Giovanni TESTA
 

Hi to all,
at sunset , sailing Water Bligh, Fiji, I had to start my Yanmar to go to anchorage. Nothing…no engine. At the moment I remembered a similar situation when we were sailing Eolie, Italy. It was the ground solenoid fault. A W40 spray under the black rubber cover button solved the problem. And it was also in this very adrenalitic situation.
Now for me it is enough ! I want to eliminate/ bypass the ground solenoid.
Any suggestions ?
If I directly connect the 2 black cables, what about the others little cables arriving to solenoid ?
May I have problem to switch off the engine ?
Thanks so much in advance
Giovanni TESTA
Sv EUTIKIA, SM2K n 428


Re: [Amel] Re: Volvo Penta TMD22 Low RPM

Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

Hi don't know if this will help. Cleanse it with a good degreaser like brake cleaner then use a high temperature exhaust manifold paint and have at it. That stuff worked well on our race cars that got bright red at times. Hey give it a try for $25 why not if nothing else slow down the process.

Regards
Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

On Jul 1, 2013, at 8:18, "islandbwoy4434" <terencesingh@mac.com> wrote:

While replacing the turbo on Libby (as noted lees than 2 hours on it) the exhaust elbow was removed, inspected and cleaned. Light Carbon deposits were removed with a dremel tool. It was in fair condition and I chose to re-use as a replacement part was $850.00US (in San Diego) I may at some point see if a SS one can be fabricated locally.
Terry&Dena
SV Libby SM196
San Diego

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Anne and John Hollamby " <annejohnholl@...> wrote:

Hi Danny, For what it is worth my last boat had a Volvo engine and needed a new mixing elbow when we were in Queensland. The cost of importing one was very high and a local welding business made a new one out of stainless for much less and much quicker.
Regards, Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM 319 Malta

From: Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
Sent: Saturday, June 29, 2013 10:37 PM
To: amel owners
Subject: Fw: [Amel] Re: Volvo Penta TMD22 Low RPM


Sorry guys (and Gals)
error in last message. Correction is: The mixing elbow is beside the turbo that is covered with the heat protector, (the elbow itself is not covered)
Regards
Danny
SM299 Ocean Pearl

----- Forwarded Message -----
From: Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <mailto:simms%40xtra.co.nz>
To: "mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com" <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, 30 June 2013 8:24 AM
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Volvo Penta TMD22 Low RPM


Hi Again.
I do commend to the group to check the exhaust mixing elbow I mentioned for carbon build up. It is relatively easy to remove but take it off the boat to clean the carbon out. You may well find as I did that the casting has eroded to the extent of needing to be replaced. If you are wondering where and what the "mixing elbow" is, it is beside the turbo and is covered with the heat protector. Its purpose in life is to be the entry point to the exhaust system of the cooling water. As I said before this mixing of hot gas and much cooler water causes carbon deposit that can eventually block the exhuast completely, however even any reduction in the volume of this can reduce engine performance significantly so periodic cleaning is beneficial.
Regards
Danny
SM 299
Ocean Pearl

________________________________
From: Joel F Potter <mailto:jfpottercys%40att.net>
To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, 28 June 2013 10:51 AM
Subject: RE: [Amel] Re: Volvo Penta TMD22 Low RPM


Hello Danny and the propeller problems with fouling and wear and RPM reductions are not exclusive to the Volvo engine installation (and the Perkins Prima which is virtually the same engine). I had a Volvo equipped boat as my first demonstration boat, and then two Yanmar boats that I purchased in succession for use as demonstrators. The Yanmar boats did exactly the same thing with even one gooseneck barnacle on the Autoprop. That, and the fact that I have sold at least 70 used SM 53’s over the years and prepared for every sea trial with a prop inspection and/or cleaning to make sure that proper performance could be demonstrated. The Autoprop is a fine device if it is clean but they have a real Jekell-Hyde character change when dirty.

Your comments on usage and carbon and so forth are right on the money. I have sold boats with 700 hours on the diesel where the motor was never run past about 60% of maximum output. Of course these were smoky and well down on power to the 7000 hour example that was run flat stick frequently and always attempted to be kept in the 75%-90% power range and with otherwise exemplary maintenance. Diesels like to work and protest if they are made to loaf…

I always smile when I see that you are out and about enjoying your Amel the way God and Henri intended. You are a fortunate guy!

All the best,

Joel

Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC

Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas

Mailing Address: 401 East Las Olas Boulevard #130-126

Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301

Phone: (954) 462-5869 Cell: (954) 812-2485

Email: mailto:jfpottercys%40att.net

From: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2013 7:16 AM
To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Volvo Penta TMD22 Low RPM

Hi All,
It is of note that the problem is exclusive to the TMD 22. If it is a prop problem it beggars belief that no Yanmar equipped boats have trouble with their props. Surely all Yanmar owners do not do a so much better job of keeping any fouling off their propellers?

Also, as I understand the auto prop it automatically adjusts pitch to match power, and torque applied, the load, and boat speed. So the pitch would be different in a fully laden boat with all cruising gear on board, and 600l diesel and 1000 l of water and six persons and luggage aboard, pushing into 20 knots of wind and a chop, compared to an empty boat in flat water with no opposing wind. I would expect the fully laden boat to operate with a lesser pitch to allow revs to be attained, like changing down gears in a car going up a steep hill.

Likewise, if two identical boats, identically laden in identical circumstances, had different diameter propellers, would not the auto prop automatically compensate for this by applying a lesser pitch to the larger prop? It would do this on the boats with the 100hp engines running at less than full power would they not?.

I believe we may find different owners (or past owners) habitual usage of their motors over long periods may well be a factor.. Diesel engines like to work, and work for long periods of time, to get good and hot and burn off accumulated carbon deposits.

Speaking of Carbon deposits. There is a cast iron casting at the end of the exhaust manifold.. This is where the cooling water enters the exhaust system. It is a common problem across all engine types for large amounts of carbon the build up here, to the extent it can completely clog the exhaust. It is caused by the change in temperature as the water meets the VERY HOT exhaust gases. Twice recently I have heard of engines actually being stopped by this, one was a Kubota diving a gen set on an Amel, the other was a small Yanmar in a 30 footer. The owner of the Yanmar, a quite skilled home mechanic, had gone to the extent of removing the motor and completely disasembling it before he found the inaccessible exhaust almost completely clogged where the water and hot gasses met.
Food for thought,
Regards
Danny
SM 299 Ocean Pearl
Currently Cruising Fiji

________________________________
From: Miles Bidwell <mailto:mbidwell%40attglobal.net>
To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, 24 June 2013 8:35 AM
Subject: [Amel] Re: Volvo Penta TMD22 Low RPM

I have recently been having the same problem with my TMD22. I cannot get
more than about 1700 rpms, but if I stop and then flat stick the throttle,
the autoprop will spin up into the turbo range and then I have (what seems
to be) almost normal power until I let the rpms drop below 2100. The
maximum revs are 2700 instead of the normal 2800 as of last summer; however
the big problem is new this year. Over the winter, I had the fresh water
pump replaced and the injectors checked and adjusted and the turbo replaced.
The autoprop is clean and to make sure, the autoprop people just rebuilt it.
A fixed prop does not solve the issue. I am about to turn to the high
pressure fuel pump. Any suggestions will be most welcome.

Miles, S/Y Ladybug (SM 216) in Newport, RI



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]










[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


[Amel] Re: John-- Motor lifting block on mizzen boom

islandbwoy4434
 

Thank you Richard.

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Richard03801 <richard03801@...> wrote:

Hi there is a halyard that has it's block at just below the
Mizzen spreader. That is the lifting line it goes over the open block on the mizzen boom.
Bring the dink along the starboard side, move the traveler over and slack the sheet. Drop the line down attach the motor. Lift the motor using the main sheet winch. When it clears the rails swing it back over the aft lazerett and lower. There is a 'block' receiver and a prop well in the floor.
Hope this helps.
You can use the same tactic with man over board rescue.

Regards
Richard Piller
Fairbanks Yacht Group llc
Cell 603 767 5330

On Jun 29, 2013, at 11:52, "islandbwoy4434" <terencesingh@...> wrote:

Can someone please educate me as to how this block is rigged on the Mizzen to hoist an Engine in and out of the rear locker? I am interested in the configuration on the Mizzen mast and which winches are used.

Thanks in advance,

Terry & Dena
Libby. SM#196

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Anne and John Hollamby " <annejohnholl@> wrote:

Hi Eric,Sorry for the delay, I have checked with the other UK company, Barton, and it is not in their catalogue so no luck. Discontinued perhaps? John

From: Sailorman
Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2013 7:34 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Amel] John-- Motor lifting block on mizzen boom


????????????????????

-----Original Message-----
From: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
[mailto:mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Anne and John Hollamby
Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2013 1:33 AM
To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel] John-- Motor lifting block on mizzen boom

chunk x BG
On 25 Jun 2013 22:37, "Sailorman" <mailto:kimberlite%40optonline.net> wrote:

**


Hi John,

I thought the block was a lewmar but I could not find it in the catalog
(it
is Marked England) I also tried Bowman also no luck.

Are you able to find it on the Lewmar site?

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

From: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
[mailto:mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Anne and John
Hollamby
Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2013 11:44 AM
To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel] Motor lifting block on mizzen boom

Hi Eric,
It is a small Lewmar block which had been fully disassembled and only the
sheave perhaps with its bearing and the two cheeks are used.
Regards, John Bali Hai SM 319 Malta

From: Sailorman
Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2013 2:59 AM
To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [Amel] Motor lifting block on mizzen boom

Hi,

Does anyone know the maker of the block ( I think it was originally a
fiddle
block) that Amel uses on the end of mizzen boom to lift the Outboard out
of
the stern locker ?

I believe it was on later model Amel Super Maramus

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

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[Amel] Re: Volvo Penta TMD22 Low RPM

islandbwoy4434
 

While replacing the turbo on Libby (as noted lees than 2 hours on it) the exhaust elbow was removed, inspected and cleaned. Light Carbon deposits were removed with a dremel tool. It was in fair condition and I chose to re-use as a replacement part was $850.00US (in San Diego) I may at some point see if a SS one can be fabricated locally.
Terry&Dena
SV Libby SM196
San Diego

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Anne and John Hollamby " <annejohnholl@...> wrote:

Hi Danny, For what it is worth my last boat had a Volvo engine and needed a new mixing elbow when we were in Queensland. The cost of importing one was very high and a local welding business made a new one out of stainless for much less and much quicker.
Regards, Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM 319 Malta

From: Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
Sent: Saturday, June 29, 2013 10:37 PM
To: amel owners
Subject: Fw: [Amel] Re: Volvo Penta TMD22 Low RPM


Sorry guys (and Gals)
error in last message. Correction is: The mixing elbow is beside the turbo that is covered with the heat protector, (the elbow itself is not covered)
Regards
Danny
SM299 Ocean Pearl

----- Forwarded Message -----
From: Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <mailto:simms%40xtra.co.nz>
To: "mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com" <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, 30 June 2013 8:24 AM
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Volvo Penta TMD22 Low RPM


Hi Again.
I do commend to the group to check the exhaust mixing elbow I mentioned for carbon build up. It is relatively easy to remove but take it off the boat to clean the carbon out. You may well find as I did that the casting has eroded to the extent of needing to be replaced. If you are wondering where and what the "mixing elbow" is, it is beside the turbo and is covered with the heat protector. Its purpose in life is to be the entry point to the exhaust system of the cooling water. As I said before this mixing of hot gas and much cooler water causes carbon deposit that can eventually block the exhuast completely, however even any reduction in the volume of this can reduce engine performance significantly so periodic cleaning is beneficial.
Regards
Danny
SM 299
Ocean Pearl

________________________________
From: Joel F Potter <mailto:jfpottercys%40att.net>
To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, 28 June 2013 10:51 AM
Subject: RE: [Amel] Re: Volvo Penta TMD22 Low RPM


Hello Danny and the propeller problems with fouling and wear and RPM reductions are not exclusive to the Volvo engine installation (and the Perkins Prima which is virtually the same engine). I had a Volvo equipped boat as my first demonstration boat, and then two Yanmar boats that I purchased in succession for use as demonstrators. The Yanmar boats did exactly the same thing with even one gooseneck barnacle on the Autoprop. That, and the fact that I have sold at least 70 used SM 53’s over the years and prepared for every sea trial with a prop inspection and/or cleaning to make sure that proper performance could be demonstrated. The Autoprop is a fine device if it is clean but they have a real Jekell-Hyde character change when dirty.

Your comments on usage and carbon and so forth are right on the money. I have sold boats with 700 hours on the diesel where the motor was never run past about 60% of maximum output. Of course these were smoky and well down on power to the 7000 hour example that was run flat stick frequently and always attempted to be kept in the 75%-90% power range and with otherwise exemplary maintenance. Diesels like to work and protest if they are made to loaf…

I always smile when I see that you are out and about enjoying your Amel the way God and Henri intended. You are a fortunate guy!

All the best,

Joel

Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC

Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas

Mailing Address: 401 East Las Olas Boulevard #130-126

Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301

Phone: (954) 462-5869 Cell: (954) 812-2485

Email: mailto:jfpottercys%40att.net

From: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2013 7:16 AM
To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Volvo Penta TMD22 Low RPM

Hi All,
It is of note that the problem is exclusive to the TMD 22. If it is a prop problem it beggars belief that no Yanmar equipped boats have trouble with their props. Surely all Yanmar owners do not do a so much better job of keeping any fouling off their propellers?

Also, as I understand the auto prop it automatically adjusts pitch to match power, and torque applied, the load, and boat speed. So the pitch would be different in a fully laden boat with all cruising gear on board, and 600l diesel and 1000 l of water and six persons and luggage aboard, pushing into 20 knots of wind and a chop, compared to an empty boat in flat water with no opposing wind. I would expect the fully laden boat to operate with a lesser pitch to allow revs to be attained, like changing down gears in a car going up a steep hill.

Likewise, if two identical boats, identically laden in identical circumstances, had different diameter propellers, would not the auto prop automatically compensate for this by applying a lesser pitch to the larger prop? It would do this on the boats with the 100hp engines running at less than full power would they not?.

I believe we may find different owners (or past owners) habitual usage of their motors over long periods may well be a factor.. Diesel engines like to work, and work for long periods of time, to get good and hot and burn off accumulated carbon deposits.

Speaking of Carbon deposits. There is a cast iron casting at the end of the exhaust manifold.. This is where the cooling water enters the exhaust system. It is a common problem across all engine types for large amounts of carbon the build up here, to the extent it can completely clog the exhaust. It is caused by the change in temperature as the water meets the VERY HOT exhaust gases. Twice recently I have heard of engines actually being stopped by this, one was a Kubota diving a gen set on an Amel, the other was a small Yanmar in a 30 footer. The owner of the Yanmar, a quite skilled home mechanic, had gone to the extent of removing the motor and completely disasembling it before he found the inaccessible exhaust almost completely clogged where the water and hot gasses met.
Food for thought,
Regards
Danny
SM 299 Ocean Pearl
Currently Cruising Fiji

________________________________
From: Miles Bidwell <mailto:mbidwell%40attglobal.net>
To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, 24 June 2013 8:35 AM
Subject: [Amel] Re: Volvo Penta TMD22 Low RPM

I have recently been having the same problem with my TMD22. I cannot get
more than about 1700 rpms, but if I stop and then flat stick the throttle,
the autoprop will spin up into the turbo range and then I have (what seems
to be) almost normal power until I let the rpms drop below 2100. The
maximum revs are 2700 instead of the normal 2800 as of last summer; however
the big problem is new this year. Over the winter, I had the fresh water
pump replaced and the injectors checked and adjusted and the turbo replaced.
The autoprop is clean and to make sure, the autoprop people just rebuilt it.
A fixed prop does not solve the issue. I am about to turn to the high
pressure fuel pump. Any suggestions will be most welcome.

Miles, S/Y Ladybug (SM 216) in Newport, RI

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Yacht Brokers

Alain Feuillet <alainfeuillet@...>
 

Hello all,
I bought with great satisfaction my Sharki followed by my current Super
Maramu to Jean GRALL. Jean knows well our Amel's and provide good
opportunities and advice.
Here is his website http://pro.annonces-marine.com/grall-yachting/
You can have a look on his Amel section to get an idea of the french
mediterranean market.

Cheers

Alain
PILGRIM SM#26