Date   

Calpreda pump for aircon

John and Anne on Bali Hai
 

I have just found that the slinger on the shaft of this pump is spraying sea water. In my spares I have a ceramic seal and another seal without any instructions in a bag labelled Calpreda. I intend to open the pump up tomorrow but wonder whether anyone has any useful advice because if there is likely to be something sinister I will just not use the aircon until we get somewhere where there is an agent.Annoying as we were about to sail away for the summer.
Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM 319


Gearbox Cabel

Rainer Huthmacher
 

Hi everyone
Can anyone tell me the length of the gearbox cable, as I'm not on my boat right now? It doesn't have to be down to an inch.....
Rainer Huthmacher
SM #69 "Yin Yang"
Currently in Curacao


Re: [Amel] SuperMaramu Windshield

Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

Hi 210 is a plastic cleaner that has 2 levels of product one for badly scratched and one for cleaning and lightly marked. It works very well on Lexan and other plastics. We have gotten it from Defender and other marine stores. Goes on with a damp soft cotton rag and buffed off with a dry one. Great stuff.


Fairwinds to all

Richard Piller
Cell 603 767 5330
email. Richard@fairbanksyachts.com
AMEL SUPPORT AND SERVICE IN THE NORTHEASTERN U.S.

On Jul 12, 2013, at 6:10, "Anne and John Hollamby " <annejohnholl@gmail.com> wrote:

Hi Richard, What is 210? Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM2k 319

From: Richard03801
Sent: Tuesday, July 9, 2013 4:18 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel] SuperMaramu Windshield

Further the reason we used Lexaan is one it is by far the strongest of the see through plastics. When it get scratched we can clear it using 210. And there are no issues when you mill or drill it. And yes it is bullet proof.
Regards
Richard Piller
FAIRBANKS YACHT GROUP LLC NEWPORT RI
AMEL SERVICE AND SUPPORT IN THE NORTHEAST
Cell 603 767 5330
mailto:Richard%40fairbanksyachts.com
On Jul 8, 2013, at 22:13, Richard03801 <mailto:richard03801%40yahoo.com> wrote:

Viet that window is 10 mm thick. Take care that the upper edge has about a 15 deg bevel.

Regards
Richard Piller
FAIRBANKS YACHT GROUP LLC NEWPORT RI
AMEL SERVICE AND SUPPORT IN THE NORTHEAST
Cell 603 767 5330
mailto:Richard%40fairbanksyachts.com

On Jul 8, 2013, at 6:39, Veit Mueller <mailto:veitm%40ymail.com> wrote:

All:

Does anyone know the thickness?
Cheers,
Veit

Sent from my vm iPad

On Jul 8, 2013, at 1:35 AM, mailto:kimberlite%40optonline.net wrote:

Richard,
do you know where i can get 30mm hose for kimberlite.it goes between the sea chest and the tranny cooler?

Ps we used to use lexan in our jewelry stores as it is stronger than plexiglass. however we found that it scratches more easily than plexiglass. we now use bulletproof glass.
fair winds
eric
sm376

----- Original Message -----
From: Richard03801
Date: Sunday, July 7, 2013 10:41 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel] SuperMaramu Windshield
To: "mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com"

Viet hi sorry about your window.
I west Annapolis is Marine Plastics they can make and install a
new one. Might as well get both side done. We used lexan. Will
send you a photo in the AM.
In Newport on SM 209.

Regards
Richard Piller
Fairbanks Yacht Group llc
Amel specialist for the Northeast
Cell 603 767 5330

On Jul 7, 2013, at 17:48, "mailto:veitm%40ymail.com" wrote:

Hello All:

Just dropped my windshield into the harbor...unrecoverable
unfortunately.Good news: hadn't started polishing yet
Bad news: need a new one.
Question: does anyone know the thickness of the original? (it
looks like either 10 or 12mm)
Also: Plexi or Polycarbonate - any experiences?

Last: can anybody suggest a good installer in the
Annapolis/Baltimore area?

Thanks,
Veit
SM215, ATMAN



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] SuperMaramu Windshield

John and Anne on Bali Hai
 

Hi Richard, What is 210? Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM2k 319

From: Richard03801
Sent: Tuesday, July 9, 2013 4:18 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel] SuperMaramu Windshield


Further the reason we used Lexaan is one it is by far the strongest of the see through plastics. When it get scratched we can clear it using 210. And there are no issues when you mill or drill it. And yes it is bullet proof.
Regards
Richard Piller
FAIRBANKS YACHT GROUP LLC NEWPORT RI
AMEL SERVICE AND SUPPORT IN THE NORTHEAST
Cell 603 767 5330
mailto:Richard%40fairbanksyachts.com
On Jul 8, 2013, at 22:13, Richard03801 <mailto:richard03801%40yahoo.com> wrote:

Viet that window is 10 mm thick. Take care that the upper edge has about a 15 deg bevel.

Regards
Richard Piller
FAIRBANKS YACHT GROUP LLC NEWPORT RI
AMEL SERVICE AND SUPPORT IN THE NORTHEAST
Cell 603 767 5330
mailto:Richard%40fairbanksyachts.com

On Jul 8, 2013, at 6:39, Veit Mueller <mailto:veitm%40ymail.com> wrote:

All:

Does anyone know the thickness?
Cheers,
Veit

Sent from my vm iPad

On Jul 8, 2013, at 1:35 AM, mailto:kimberlite%40optonline.net wrote:

Richard,
do you know where i can get 30mm hose for kimberlite.it goes between the sea chest and the tranny cooler?

Ps we used to use lexan in our jewelry stores as it is stronger than plexiglass. however we found that it scratches more easily than plexiglass. we now use bulletproof glass.
fair winds
eric
sm376

----- Original Message -----
From: Richard03801
Date: Sunday, July 7, 2013 10:41 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel] SuperMaramu Windshield
To: "mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com"

Viet hi sorry about your window.
I west Annapolis is Marine Plastics they can make and install a
new one. Might as well get both side done. We used lexan. Will
send you a photo in the AM.
In Newport on SM 209.

Regards
Richard Piller
Fairbanks Yacht Group llc
Amel specialist for the Northeast
Cell 603 767 5330

On Jul 7, 2013, at 17:48, "mailto:veitm%40ymail.com" wrote:

Hello All:

Just dropped my windshield into the harbor...unrecoverable
unfortunately.Good news: hadn't started polishing yet
Bad news: need a new one.
Question: does anyone know the thickness of the original? (it
looks like either 10 or 12mm)
Also: Plexi or Polycarbonate - any experiences?

Last: can anybody suggest a good installer in the
Annapolis/Baltimore area?

Thanks,
Veit
SM215, ATMAN









[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: heat exchanger, belts , and oil cooler

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

HI Trevor:

That is a great description and a real resource. Thanks for posting.

Gary

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "seafeverofcuan" <seafeverofcuan@...> wrote:


Hi Gary,
I took the gentleman's way out on this one and used my cheque book, this time I didn't physically do the work but I was there for all of it. A Yanmar trained technician took off both end caps, he also removed the turbo, oil cooler and the exhaust elbow as I was having a major service, including turbo recon,injectors, etc. @ 3000 hours.
I mentioned to him that I had tried to remove the heat exchanger last year and it didn't seem to want to move and I was reluctant to use force, so I flushed it with Barnacle Buster which lead on to seizing the gearbox when the transmission cooler failed. He simply tapped sharply a couple of times using a wooden circular plug from my emergency kit about 55mm in diameter, on the end from aft to forward and it moved, then he pulled it from the forward side and passed it up to me, easy as that. He told me that they are prone to sticking.
I helped put it back in and it simply slid into the casing and sealed on two O rings but they need to be new, then the end caps. He wouldn't tell me what they had used to clean it but it looked like brand new.
The Yanmar workshop manual shows how it draws out but offers no instruction.
For the previous six months or so I had been using a little bit of oil on long runs and this turned out to be yet another hole, this time in the engine oil cooler and it had to be replaced.
As normal, the diesel lab commented that I hadn't been running the engine hard enough, usually 2250 RPM. The correct revs for that engine are 2450 to 2650 RPM and there is no doubt since the service it has been running better than ever, although those extra revs increase the fuel usage to around seven litres per hour.
I hope this is of some help.
Regards,
Trevor


Re: heat exchanger, belts , and oil cooler

seafeverofcuan
 

Hi Gary,
I took the gentleman's way out on this one and used my cheque book, this time I didn't physically do the work but I was there for all of it. A Yanmar trained technician took off both end caps, he also removed the turbo, oil cooler and the exhaust elbow as I was having a major service, including turbo recon,injectors, etc. @ 3000 hours.
I mentioned to him that I had tried to remove the heat exchanger last year and it didn't seem to want to move and I was reluctant to use force, so I flushed it with Barnacle Buster which lead on to seizing the gearbox when the transmission cooler failed. He simply tapped sharply a couple of times using a wooden circular plug from my emergency kit about 55mm in diameter, on the end from aft to forward and it moved, then he pulled it from the forward side and passed it up to me, easy as that. He told me that they are prone to sticking.
I helped put it back in and it simply slid into the casing and sealed on two O rings but they need to be new, then the end caps. He wouldn't tell me what they had used to clean it but it looked like brand new.
The Yanmar workshop manual shows how it draws out but offers no instruction.
For the previous six months or so I had been using a little bit of oil on long runs and this turned out to be yet another hole, this time in the engine oil cooler and it had to be replaced.
As normal, the diesel lab commented that I hadn't been running the engine hard enough, usually 2250 RPM. The correct revs for that engine are 2450 to 2650 RPM and there is no doubt since the service it has been running better than ever, although those extra revs increase the fuel usage to around seven litres per hour.
I hope this is of some help.
Regards,
Trevor

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, amelliahona <no_reply@...> wrote:

Hi Trevor:

I just want to make sure I understand this, DETAILS ARE IMPORTANT:
1. We are talking about the Yanmar seawater/freshwater coolant heat exchanger that sits atop the engine, correct?
2. To drive the core that includes the heat exchanger tubes out of the engine housing, you used a wooden drift (presumably something fitted to roughly the size of the core, or about 5 x 5 cm), correct?
3. What direction did you drive the core out, from aft to forward or the other way around?
4. Can you please confirm that the only thing holding the core in the engine housing is the o-ring on each end of the core?
5. How much hammering on the core did you have to do? Did risk bending the tubes or damaging the core?

Thanks for clarifications.

Gary Silver
s/v Liahona Hull # 335

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "seafeverofcuan" <seafeverofcuan@> wrote:


Hi Eric,
The Yanmar cooler will come out if you use a wooden drift like the thick side of a wedge and tap it gently with a mallet, but don't do it unless you have NEW gaskets as it won't reseal.
As far as the tranny cooler goes, it would be better to use new end caps, you need thinner jubilee clips than normal to get a good bite on the sea water pipe which has a nylon sleeves inside it and there isn't much room to get a good purchase .
The new cooler I fitted in May came with caps and clips.
From my own bitter experience I would ask a radiator shop about a cleaning agent that would be gentle rather than proprietary products like Barnacle Buster or On Offn
Best regards,
Trevor

Sea Fever
SM425
Ireland
--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@> wrote:

Eric,

I have reviewed my notes and cannot find the photos I know I made when I did this in 2008. I do not remember any problems...it seemed straight forward at the time...possibly the tube assembly does not come out of the housing.

Regarding the exchanger gaskets check this out: http://shop.torresen.com/ships_store/index.php?p=details&;mfc=Yanmar&sku=129693-44420

I did not have these gaskets and had to cut them from gasket material...it was very difficult as the gasket is extremely intricate. Part number 129693-44420 was the part that I ordered and now have as spares since I cut gaskets at the time. Regarding the O ring 24321-001000, I found these these at Yanmar Panama, but probably did not need to replace them...the old ones looked good...unlike the gaskets which tore apart on removal of the end caps.

Sorry that I am not much help.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
At the Amel Pontoon, Gocek, Turkey


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@> wrote:

Eric,

It may be 24 hours before I can reply. I am off the boat now and need to return to answer your questions.

Bill
BeBe

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, kimberlite <kimberlite@> wrote:

Bill

How did you get the heat exchanger out? I removed the end caps and could
not get the exchanger to slide out of its housing. I also do not see the
part number Gasket - Heat Exchanger 129693-44420 2- each listed in my
manual.



Also the belts are standard dayco belts number 17475 or 13a1205 they come
in matched sets. Same belt as the yanmar belt but better construction.

They have grooves cut into the top of the belt and allows the belt to have
more flexibility. My first set I had to get from Europe as the number was
13a1200 meaning 1200 long the USA replacement is 1205 mm long .

they are available in most auto parts stores. I got this info from the
dayco engineers, the 1200 mm version is only available for export.



I also thought that I was pushing my luck with the tranny oil cooler after
10 years .In Europe it is 500+ euros. Here it was $137-

Here is a note from the USA Rep of the British manufacturer. The Unit is the
DC60 . Made by bowman. You must order the 3367 end caps or use the old ones.
http://www.ejbowman.co.uk/pdf/DC_Oil_Coolers_-_Iss_J.pdf







From: Sales & Engineering [mailto:sales@]
Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2013 8:39 AM
To: 'Sailorman'
Subject: RE: Marine transmission oil cooler



Eric,



Thank you for the inquiry. The unit that you have there appears to be one
of the DC Series coolers; I think it is the DC60. We do not have that unit
in stock but have he next size up, I'm not sure if you have the room to go
with a longer cooler or not. Following is the pricing for both units,
please let me know if you have any questions or need further information.



Model #DC90-XAA

Price $153.60

*Unit has 3/8" BSPP oil connections and 22mm I.D. x 32mm O.D. straight hose
bibs.

Delivery - In stock and can ship same day from our Watertown, MA location.



DC60-???

Price $137.00

*Pricing is good for any configuration.

Delivery - Allow 4 to 6 weeks



See attached catalog for dimensional data and connection sizes and
configuration.





Best Regards,

Bob Bangs

Sales Representative

Therma-Flow, Inc.

Phone: 1-617-924-3877

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Super Maramu #376





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Judy and Bill aboard
SV BeBe
Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2013 5:28 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Re: How to acid clean sea water intercoolers





Gary,

Before removing and cleaning the heat exchanger on the Yanmar 100hp, order
these parts:
Gasket - Heat Exchanger 129693-44420 2 each
O Ring - Heat Exchanger 24321-001000 2 each

You may not need to replace the O rings, but the gaskets are very delicate
and will tear when the exchanger is disassembled.

I drained the coolant before starting and reused the same coolant. I also
used this opportunity to change the thermostat, gasket and the 3 fan belts.
Parts:
Thermostat 129470-49801 1 each
Gasket, Therm 129795-49551 1 each
V-Belt 25132-004600 3 each

Disassembly/assembly is straight forward. It has been several years ago and
I do not recall any issues or problems.

Hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe"
<yahoogroups@> wrote:

Gary, I will completely answer when I can get to my laptop. It was the
freshwater exchanger. There are some gaskets and O rings you must have
before attempting. I will come back with details and part numbers.

Bill

Bill

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , amelliahona <no_reply@> wrote:

Bill:

That is very helpful. Thanks for the On-Off info. I will look into it.
When used as a hull cleaner does it etch the gelcoat at all?

Which Yanmar heat heat exchanger did you clean? Was it the fresh water
to sea water exchanger, the seawater to engine oil exchanger, or the sea
water to transmission fluid exchanger?

I know that the Yanmar sear water to fresh water heat exchanger tubular
core is a separate part from the housing in which it sits. Can you elaborate
on the removal process/difficulty if indeed you have done that?

Thanks for all your help.

Gary

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe"
<yahoogroups@> wrote:

Gary,

I was in New Zealand and could not buy acid because it requires a
special license...I had a marine engineering shop do it for me.

However, I did acid-wash the heat exchanger core on the Yanmar using
On-Off which is a combo of hydrochloric, oxalic and phosphoric acids. I let
the heat exchanger core soak in the On-Off for about 5-10 minutes until it
was visibly clean. I then rinsed it with fresh water and soaked it in a
bucket of baking soda and water to neutralize any residual acid.

A side note about On-Off: On-Off is advertised as a hull cleaner, but
is also an excellent metal cleaner and rust remover. DO NOT USE it on chrome
plated turnbuckles or chrome plated winches as it will remove the chrome.

Hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe SM2k, #387




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: heat exchanger, belts , and oil cooler

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Trevor:

I just want to make sure I understand this, DETAILS ARE IMPORTANT:
1. We are talking about the Yanmar seawater/freshwater coolant heat exchanger that sits atop the engine, correct?
2. To drive the core that includes the heat exchanger tubes out of the engine housing, you used a wooden drift (presumably something fitted to roughly the size of the core, or about 5 x 5 cm), correct?
3. What direction did you drive the core out, from aft to forward or the other way around?
4. Can you please confirm that the only thing holding the core in the engine housing is the o-ring on each end of the core?
5. How much hammering on the core did you have to do? Did risk bending the tubes or damaging the core?

Thanks for clarifications.

Gary Silver
s/v Liahona Hull # 335

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "seafeverofcuan" <seafeverofcuan@...> wrote:


Hi Eric,
The Yanmar cooler will come out if you use a wooden drift like the thick side of a wedge and tap it gently with a mallet, but don't do it unless you have NEW gaskets as it won't reseal.
As far as the tranny cooler goes, it would be better to use new end caps, you need thinner jubilee clips than normal to get a good bite on the sea water pipe which has a nylon sleeves inside it and there isn't much room to get a good purchase .
The new cooler I fitted in May came with caps and clips.
From my own bitter experience I would ask a radiator shop about a cleaning agent that would be gentle rather than proprietary products like Barnacle Buster or On Offn
Best regards,
Trevor

Sea Fever
SM425
Ireland
--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@> wrote:

Eric,

I have reviewed my notes and cannot find the photos I know I made when I did this in 2008. I do not remember any problems...it seemed straight forward at the time...possibly the tube assembly does not come out of the housing.

Regarding the exchanger gaskets check this out: http://shop.torresen.com/ships_store/index.php?p=details&;mfc=Yanmar&sku=129693-44420

I did not have these gaskets and had to cut them from gasket material...it was very difficult as the gasket is extremely intricate. Part number 129693-44420 was the part that I ordered and now have as spares since I cut gaskets at the time. Regarding the O ring 24321-001000, I found these these at Yanmar Panama, but probably did not need to replace them...the old ones looked good...unlike the gaskets which tore apart on removal of the end caps.

Sorry that I am not much help.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
At the Amel Pontoon, Gocek, Turkey


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@> wrote:

Eric,

It may be 24 hours before I can reply. I am off the boat now and need to return to answer your questions.

Bill
BeBe

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, kimberlite <kimberlite@> wrote:

Bill

How did you get the heat exchanger out? I removed the end caps and could
not get the exchanger to slide out of its housing. I also do not see the
part number Gasket - Heat Exchanger 129693-44420 2- each listed in my
manual.



Also the belts are standard dayco belts number 17475 or 13a1205 they come
in matched sets. Same belt as the yanmar belt but better construction.

They have grooves cut into the top of the belt and allows the belt to have
more flexibility. My first set I had to get from Europe as the number was
13a1200 meaning 1200 long the USA replacement is 1205 mm long .

they are available in most auto parts stores. I got this info from the
dayco engineers, the 1200 mm version is only available for export.



I also thought that I was pushing my luck with the tranny oil cooler after
10 years .In Europe it is 500+ euros. Here it was $137-

Here is a note from the USA Rep of the British manufacturer. The Unit is the
DC60 . Made by bowman. You must order the 3367 end caps or use the old ones.
http://www.ejbowman.co.uk/pdf/DC_Oil_Coolers_-_Iss_J.pdf







From: Sales & Engineering [mailto:sales@]
Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2013 8:39 AM
To: 'Sailorman'
Subject: RE: Marine transmission oil cooler



Eric,



Thank you for the inquiry. The unit that you have there appears to be one
of the DC Series coolers; I think it is the DC60. We do not have that unit
in stock but have he next size up, I'm not sure if you have the room to go
with a longer cooler or not. Following is the pricing for both units,
please let me know if you have any questions or need further information.



Model #DC90-XAA

Price $153.60

*Unit has 3/8" BSPP oil connections and 22mm I.D. x 32mm O.D. straight hose
bibs.

Delivery - In stock and can ship same day from our Watertown, MA location.



DC60-???

Price $137.00

*Pricing is good for any configuration.

Delivery - Allow 4 to 6 weeks



See attached catalog for dimensional data and connection sizes and
configuration.





Best Regards,

Bob Bangs

Sales Representative

Therma-Flow, Inc.

Phone: 1-617-924-3877

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Super Maramu #376





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Judy and Bill aboard
SV BeBe
Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2013 5:28 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Re: How to acid clean sea water intercoolers





Gary,

Before removing and cleaning the heat exchanger on the Yanmar 100hp, order
these parts:
Gasket - Heat Exchanger 129693-44420 2 each
O Ring - Heat Exchanger 24321-001000 2 each

You may not need to replace the O rings, but the gaskets are very delicate
and will tear when the exchanger is disassembled.

I drained the coolant before starting and reused the same coolant. I also
used this opportunity to change the thermostat, gasket and the 3 fan belts.
Parts:
Thermostat 129470-49801 1 each
Gasket, Therm 129795-49551 1 each
V-Belt 25132-004600 3 each

Disassembly/assembly is straight forward. It has been several years ago and
I do not recall any issues or problems.

Hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe"
<yahoogroups@> wrote:

Gary, I will completely answer when I can get to my laptop. It was the
freshwater exchanger. There are some gaskets and O rings you must have
before attempting. I will come back with details and part numbers.

Bill

Bill

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , amelliahona <no_reply@> wrote:

Bill:

That is very helpful. Thanks for the On-Off info. I will look into it.
When used as a hull cleaner does it etch the gelcoat at all?

Which Yanmar heat heat exchanger did you clean? Was it the fresh water
to sea water exchanger, the seawater to engine oil exchanger, or the sea
water to transmission fluid exchanger?

I know that the Yanmar sear water to fresh water heat exchanger tubular
core is a separate part from the housing in which it sits. Can you elaborate
on the removal process/difficulty if indeed you have done that?

Thanks for all your help.

Gary

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe"
<yahoogroups@> wrote:

Gary,

I was in New Zealand and could not buy acid because it requires a
special license...I had a marine engineering shop do it for me.

However, I did acid-wash the heat exchanger core on the Yanmar using
On-Off which is a combo of hydrochloric, oxalic and phosphoric acids. I let
the heat exchanger core soak in the On-Off for about 5-10 minutes until it
was visibly clean. I then rinsed it with fresh water and soaked it in a
bucket of baking soda and water to neutralize any residual acid.

A side note about On-Off: On-Off is advertised as a hull cleaner, but
is also an excellent metal cleaner and rust remover. DO NOT USE it on chrome
plated turnbuckles or chrome plated winches as it will remove the chrome.

Hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe SM2k, #387




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: heat exchanger, belts , and oil cooler

seafeverofcuan
 

Hi Eric,
The Yanmar cooler will come out if you use a wooden drift like the thick side of a wedge and tap it gently with a mallet, but don't do it unless you have NEW gaskets as it won't reseal.
As far as the tranny cooler goes, it would be better to use new end caps, you need thinner jubilee clips than normal to get a good bite on the sea water pipe which has a nylon sleeves inside it and there isn't much room to get a good purchase .
The new cooler I fitted in May came with caps and clips.
From my own bitter experience I would ask a radiator shop about a cleaning agent that would be gentle rather than proprietary products like Barnacle Buster or On Offn
Best regards,
Trevor

Sea Fever
SM425
Ireland

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@...> wrote:

Eric,

I have reviewed my notes and cannot find the photos I know I made when I did this in 2008. I do not remember any problems...it seemed straight forward at the time...possibly the tube assembly does not come out of the housing.

Regarding the exchanger gaskets check this out: http://shop.torresen.com/ships_store/index.php?p=details&;mfc=Yanmar&sku=129693-44420

I did not have these gaskets and had to cut them from gasket material...it was very difficult as the gasket is extremely intricate. Part number 129693-44420 was the part that I ordered and now have as spares since I cut gaskets at the time. Regarding the O ring 24321-001000, I found these these at Yanmar Panama, but probably did not need to replace them...the old ones looked good...unlike the gaskets which tore apart on removal of the end caps.

Sorry that I am not much help.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
At the Amel Pontoon, Gocek, Turkey


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@> wrote:

Eric,

It may be 24 hours before I can reply. I am off the boat now and need to return to answer your questions.

Bill
BeBe

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, kimberlite <kimberlite@> wrote:

Bill

How did you get the heat exchanger out? I removed the end caps and could
not get the exchanger to slide out of its housing. I also do not see the
part number Gasket - Heat Exchanger 129693-44420 2- each listed in my
manual.



Also the belts are standard dayco belts number 17475 or 13a1205 they come
in matched sets. Same belt as the yanmar belt but better construction.

They have grooves cut into the top of the belt and allows the belt to have
more flexibility. My first set I had to get from Europe as the number was
13a1200 meaning 1200 long the USA replacement is 1205 mm long .

they are available in most auto parts stores. I got this info from the
dayco engineers, the 1200 mm version is only available for export.



I also thought that I was pushing my luck with the tranny oil cooler after
10 years .In Europe it is 500+ euros. Here it was $137-

Here is a note from the USA Rep of the British manufacturer. The Unit is the
DC60 . Made by bowman. You must order the 3367 end caps or use the old ones.
http://www.ejbowman.co.uk/pdf/DC_Oil_Coolers_-_Iss_J.pdf







From: Sales & Engineering [mailto:sales@]
Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2013 8:39 AM
To: 'Sailorman'
Subject: RE: Marine transmission oil cooler



Eric,



Thank you for the inquiry. The unit that you have there appears to be one
of the DC Series coolers; I think it is the DC60. We do not have that unit
in stock but have he next size up, I'm not sure if you have the room to go
with a longer cooler or not. Following is the pricing for both units,
please let me know if you have any questions or need further information.



Model #DC90-XAA

Price $153.60

*Unit has 3/8" BSPP oil connections and 22mm I.D. x 32mm O.D. straight hose
bibs.

Delivery - In stock and can ship same day from our Watertown, MA location.



DC60-???

Price $137.00

*Pricing is good for any configuration.

Delivery - Allow 4 to 6 weeks



See attached catalog for dimensional data and connection sizes and
configuration.





Best Regards,

Bob Bangs

Sales Representative

Therma-Flow, Inc.

Phone: 1-617-924-3877

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Super Maramu #376





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Judy and Bill aboard
SV BeBe
Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2013 5:28 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Re: How to acid clean sea water intercoolers





Gary,

Before removing and cleaning the heat exchanger on the Yanmar 100hp, order
these parts:
Gasket - Heat Exchanger 129693-44420 2 each
O Ring - Heat Exchanger 24321-001000 2 each

You may not need to replace the O rings, but the gaskets are very delicate
and will tear when the exchanger is disassembled.

I drained the coolant before starting and reused the same coolant. I also
used this opportunity to change the thermostat, gasket and the 3 fan belts.
Parts:
Thermostat 129470-49801 1 each
Gasket, Therm 129795-49551 1 each
V-Belt 25132-004600 3 each

Disassembly/assembly is straight forward. It has been several years ago and
I do not recall any issues or problems.

Hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe"
<yahoogroups@> wrote:

Gary, I will completely answer when I can get to my laptop. It was the
freshwater exchanger. There are some gaskets and O rings you must have
before attempting. I will come back with details and part numbers.

Bill

Bill

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , amelliahona <no_reply@> wrote:

Bill:

That is very helpful. Thanks for the On-Off info. I will look into it.
When used as a hull cleaner does it etch the gelcoat at all?

Which Yanmar heat heat exchanger did you clean? Was it the fresh water
to sea water exchanger, the seawater to engine oil exchanger, or the sea
water to transmission fluid exchanger?

I know that the Yanmar sear water to fresh water heat exchanger tubular
core is a separate part from the housing in which it sits. Can you elaborate
on the removal process/difficulty if indeed you have done that?

Thanks for all your help.

Gary

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe"
<yahoogroups@> wrote:

Gary,

I was in New Zealand and could not buy acid because it requires a
special license...I had a marine engineering shop do it for me.

However, I did acid-wash the heat exchanger core on the Yanmar using
On-Off which is a combo of hydrochloric, oxalic and phosphoric acids. I let
the heat exchanger core soak in the On-Off for about 5-10 minutes until it
was visibly clean. I then rinsed it with fresh water and soaked it in a
bucket of baking soda and water to neutralize any residual acid.

A side note about On-Off: On-Off is advertised as a hull cleaner, but
is also an excellent metal cleaner and rust remover. DO NOT USE it on chrome
plated turnbuckles or chrome plated winches as it will remove the chrome.

Hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe SM2k, #387






Re: heat exchanger, belts , and oil cooler

Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Eric,

I have reviewed my notes and cannot find the photos I know I made when I did this in 2008. I do not remember any problems...it seemed straight forward at the time...possibly the tube assembly does not come out of the housing.

Regarding the exchanger gaskets check this out: http://shop.torresen.com/ships_store/index.php?p=details&;mfc=Yanmar&sku=129693-44420

I did not have these gaskets and had to cut them from gasket material...it was very difficult as the gasket is extremely intricate. Part number 129693-44420 was the part that I ordered and now have as spares since I cut gaskets at the time. Regarding the O ring 24321-001000, I found these these at Yanmar Panama, but probably did not need to replace them...the old ones looked good...unlike the gaskets which tore apart on removal of the end caps.

Sorry that I am not much help.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
At the Amel Pontoon, Gocek, Turkey

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@...> wrote:

Eric,

It may be 24 hours before I can reply. I am off the boat now and need to return to answer your questions.

Bill
BeBe

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, kimberlite <kimberlite@> wrote:

Bill

How did you get the heat exchanger out? I removed the end caps and could
not get the exchanger to slide out of its housing. I also do not see the
part number Gasket - Heat Exchanger 129693-44420 2- each listed in my
manual.



Also the belts are standard dayco belts number 17475 or 13a1205 they come
in matched sets. Same belt as the yanmar belt but better construction.

They have grooves cut into the top of the belt and allows the belt to have
more flexibility. My first set I had to get from Europe as the number was
13a1200 meaning 1200 long the USA replacement is 1205 mm long .

they are available in most auto parts stores. I got this info from the
dayco engineers, the 1200 mm version is only available for export.



I also thought that I was pushing my luck with the tranny oil cooler after
10 years .In Europe it is 500+ euros. Here it was $137-

Here is a note from the USA Rep of the British manufacturer. The Unit is the
DC60 . Made by bowman. You must order the 3367 end caps or use the old ones.
http://www.ejbowman.co.uk/pdf/DC_Oil_Coolers_-_Iss_J.pdf







From: Sales & Engineering [mailto:sales@]
Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2013 8:39 AM
To: 'Sailorman'
Subject: RE: Marine transmission oil cooler



Eric,



Thank you for the inquiry. The unit that you have there appears to be one
of the DC Series coolers; I think it is the DC60. We do not have that unit
in stock but have he next size up, I'm not sure if you have the room to go
with a longer cooler or not. Following is the pricing for both units,
please let me know if you have any questions or need further information.



Model #DC90-XAA

Price $153.60

*Unit has 3/8" BSPP oil connections and 22mm I.D. x 32mm O.D. straight hose
bibs.

Delivery - In stock and can ship same day from our Watertown, MA location.



DC60-???

Price $137.00

*Pricing is good for any configuration.

Delivery - Allow 4 to 6 weeks



See attached catalog for dimensional data and connection sizes and
configuration.





Best Regards,

Bob Bangs

Sales Representative

Therma-Flow, Inc.

Phone: 1-617-924-3877

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Super Maramu #376





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Judy and Bill aboard
SV BeBe
Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2013 5:28 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Re: How to acid clean sea water intercoolers





Gary,

Before removing and cleaning the heat exchanger on the Yanmar 100hp, order
these parts:
Gasket - Heat Exchanger 129693-44420 2 each
O Ring - Heat Exchanger 24321-001000 2 each

You may not need to replace the O rings, but the gaskets are very delicate
and will tear when the exchanger is disassembled.

I drained the coolant before starting and reused the same coolant. I also
used this opportunity to change the thermostat, gasket and the 3 fan belts.
Parts:
Thermostat 129470-49801 1 each
Gasket, Therm 129795-49551 1 each
V-Belt 25132-004600 3 each

Disassembly/assembly is straight forward. It has been several years ago and
I do not recall any issues or problems.

Hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe"
<yahoogroups@> wrote:

Gary, I will completely answer when I can get to my laptop. It was the
freshwater exchanger. There are some gaskets and O rings you must have
before attempting. I will come back with details and part numbers.

Bill

Bill

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , amelliahona <no_reply@> wrote:

Bill:

That is very helpful. Thanks for the On-Off info. I will look into it.
When used as a hull cleaner does it etch the gelcoat at all?

Which Yanmar heat heat exchanger did you clean? Was it the fresh water
to sea water exchanger, the seawater to engine oil exchanger, or the sea
water to transmission fluid exchanger?

I know that the Yanmar sear water to fresh water heat exchanger tubular
core is a separate part from the housing in which it sits. Can you elaborate
on the removal process/difficulty if indeed you have done that?

Thanks for all your help.

Gary

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe"
<yahoogroups@> wrote:

Gary,

I was in New Zealand and could not buy acid because it requires a
special license...I had a marine engineering shop do it for me.

However, I did acid-wash the heat exchanger core on the Yanmar using
On-Off which is a combo of hydrochloric, oxalic and phosphoric acids. I let
the heat exchanger core soak in the On-Off for about 5-10 minutes until it
was visibly clean. I then rinsed it with fresh water and soaked it in a
bucket of baking soda and water to neutralize any residual acid.

A side note about On-Off: On-Off is advertised as a hull cleaner, but
is also an excellent metal cleaner and rust remover. DO NOT USE it on chrome
plated turnbuckles or chrome plated winches as it will remove the chrome.

Hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe SM2k, #387






Re: Volvo TMD22 Stop solenoid

jjjk12s <jjjk12s@...>
 

Graham,

I have a Perkins M60 - same as a Volvo MD22 so in the same family as yours. I'm not sure the wiring is identical but I think it works on the same system of an isolated engine. I wonder have you got current at the solenoid or just know that it has voltage getting to it when you press the stop switch? Have you double checked the wiring including the earth relay in the stop solenoid curcuit for loose or corroded connections? Have you tested the solenoid directly bypassing the engine earth? Excuse me if you have already done all this but if you have, say, a loose or corroded wire on the earth relay you will have voltage at the solenoid but it not work because of an incomplete curcuit.

Regards
John Maramu #92

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Graham" <crwggb@...> wrote:

There has been much chat about solenoid s on the yanmar, but here is one on the Volvo. My engine won't stop electrically. I have verified current is getting to the solenoid on the HP fuel pump. Has any one any tips on removing this solenoid from the pump, and is it likely I could fix the stuck solenoid or am I up for a new unit?

Incidentally I use VOLSPEC in the UK for all Volvo parts. They dispatch immediately and are significantly cheaper than anyone else. For you guys in the USA as for me here in HK the current exchange rate is also rather attractive!

Graham
SM140 SULA
Hong Kong


Re: [Amel] Yanmar ground solenoid.. Inox

Chen Melamed
 

טוב לראות אותך בפורום

-----Original Message-----
From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com [mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of lior 555
Sent: Tuesday, July 09, 2013 10:12 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel] Yanmar ground solenoid.. Inox

Thanks a lot Alan

Regards
Lior



2013/7/8 eric <ericmeury@yahoo.com>

**



Here is one in Switzerland


http://www.nocorro.com/index.php?option=com_content&;view=article&id=18&Itemid=15&lang=en

France

FRANCE
Pacific France
Import - Export
Le Bourge Route De La Gare
23800 St Sulpice Le Dunois
France Sales: Moana Longine
Telephone: 335 5589 0311
Fax: 335 5589 0311
Mob: 230 728 7799
Email: inox@pacificfrance.com

And to see a list world wide

http://www.inox-mx3.com/inox.htm

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, lior 555 <lior246@...> wrote:

Hi Alan

I searched in google for INOX and did not find anythithing. Can you maybe
write me where in Europe ist it possible to purchase it?

Thanks
Lior



2013/7/6 alan_leslie_elyes_sm2k <divanz620@...>

**


Hi Danny,

I understand what you are saying here, but I would NEVER use WD40 on
anything that I wanted not to corrode. WD40 might be fine at
dispersing the
water initially , but its chemical makeup makes it hydrophilic (ie it
attracts water), better in my humble opinion to use a product that it
is
intrinsically hydrophobic (ie repels water) like INOX...I don't carry
WD 40.
If you want to test the theory, get an old rusty tool, wire brush all
the
rust off it, spray it with WD40 and in 6 months I guarantee it will be
rusty again...do the same with INOX and it will be a looooong time
before
you see any signs of rust again.

Cheers from Port Vila
Hi to Yvonne

All the best
Alan
SY Elyse SM437



--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@
wrote:

Hi All,
these sort of problems arise from corrosion in our salt laden
atmosphere, any electrical connection is vulnerable. The answer is to
liberally and regularly spray all connections, alternators and electric
engines in the engine room with WD40 or in NZ CRC 5.56. (It feels
strange
to spray a liquid into an electric motor but it works) Avoid rubber
componants as much as possible (not vital) DO NOT use lubricant
enhanced
products, as these may be electrically conductive with resultant
issues.
They may be longer lasting in stopping rust but that is not our issue
hereÂ
WD 40 (WD = water dispersant)Â It gets in below and replaces it.
Regards
Danny
SM 299 Ocean Pearl
Currently Ovalau Island FijiÂ


________________________________
From: Giovanni Testa <gtesta23@>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, 2 July 2013 5:25 PM
Subject: [Amel] Yanmar ground solenoid

Â


Hi to all,
at sunset , sailing Water Bligh, Fiji, I had to start my Yanmar to
go to
anchorage. Nothing…no engine. At the moment I remembered a similar
situation when we were sailing Eolie, Italy. It was the ground solenoid
fault. A W40 spray under the black rubber cover button solved the
problem.
And it was also in this very adrenalitic situation.

Now for me it is enough ! I want to eliminate/ bypass the ground
solenoid.
Any suggestions ?
If I directly connect the 2 black cables, what about the others
little
cables arriving to solenoid ?
May I have problem to switch off the engine ?
Thanks so much in advance
Giovanni TESTA
Sv EUTIKIA, SM2K n 428




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links




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Re: [Amel] Volvo TMD22 Stop solenoid

eric freedman
 

If you have one.

Do you leave the key on when you press the stop button?

On my Yanmar if you turn the key off you turn the electric off that operates
the solenoid.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite







_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Graham
Sent: Tuesday, July 09, 2013 1:50 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Volvo TMD22 Stop solenoid





There has been much chat about solenoid s on the yanmar, but here is one on
the Volvo. My engine won't stop electrically. I have verified current is
getting to the solenoid on the HP fuel pump. Has any one any tips on
removing this solenoid from the pump, and is it likely I could fix the stuck
solenoid or am I up for a new unit?

Incidentally I use VOLSPEC in the UK for all Volvo parts. They dispatch
immediately and are significantly cheaper than anyone else. For you guys in
the USA as for me here in HK the current exchange rate is also rather
attractive!

Graham
SM140 SULA
Hong Kong




_____

I am using the Free version of SPAMfighter <http://www.spamfighter.com/len>;
.
SPAMfighter has removed 1737 of my spam emails to date.

Do you have a slow PC? <http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen>;
Try a free scan!


Glue for vinyl headlining

jjjk12s <jjjk12s@...>
 

There were some posts recently about spray adhesive for fixing vinyl headlining. Hopefully the following links are useful for those with headlining problems and trying to find the right glue.

Although some different ones may work, choosing the best one is not easy (some shops seem to just recommend what they have in stock as the perfect one).

I have previously used 3M General Trim Adhesive 08088 (was recommended) but it needs redoing in a few areas after a very hot summer. This adhesive is not listed on the brochure link below, I think due to using different marketing for auto and industrial markets. That adhesive seems to have worked fine on Naugasoft but not as well on a different brand of vinyl (maybe different types of plasticisers?) Another 3M auto adhesive is Super Trim Adhesive 08090 which is promoted as having resistance to plasticisers. This one sounds the same as 3M 90 High Strength.

According to the 3M links below Rubber and Vinyl 80 looks best. It has better heat resistance when the deck gets hot compared to High Strength Adhesive.

John, Maramu #91

Link for brochure showing different 3M spray adhesives

http://solutions.3m.com.au/3MContentRetrievalAPI/BlobServlet?lmd=1266458338000&;locale=en_AU&assetType=MMM_Image&assetId=1258562304068&blobAttribute=ImageFile

Link for 3M spray adhesive 80

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Adhesives/Tapes/Products/~/3M-Rubber-And-Vinyl-80-Spray-Adhesive-Yellow-24-fl-oz-Aerosol-Net-weight-19-oz-6-cans-per-case?N=4294933057+5000130&;Nr=AND%28hrcy_id%3AN23ZLBTF6Hgs_Z6P37PTRPV_N2RL3FHWVK_GPD0K8BC31gv%29&rt=d

Link for 3M Super Trim Adhesive brochure

http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawebserver?mwsId=SSSSSufSevTsZxtUnxm9mY_ZevUqevTSevTSevTSeSSSSSS--&;fn=STA08090_Instruc_Feature.pdf&cshift_ck=null&client_id=752nw09202


Re: [Amel] Haulout & Authorized Technical Amel Service in Turkey Eastern Mediterranean

Peter Forbes
 

I endorse all that Bill says about the excellence of Riza at EMEK Marin.

Best wishes

Peter

Peter Forbes
07836 209730

On 9 Jul 2013, at 09:58, "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@svbebe.com> wrote:

If anyone is looking for haulout or authorized Amel technical service and/or Amel warranty service in the Eastern Mediterranean, you should come to Gocek, Turkey and meet Riza at Emek Marin. I have experience with Nokta in Marmaris and without posting anything negative, Emek Marin is light years ahead of Nokta.

EMEK MARIN LTD.STI.
Address: Hurriyet Mah Ataturk Bul.No:1
48310 Gocek/Mugla/TURKEY
Tel: +90 252 645 2468 - 1551
Fax: +90 252 645 2899
Gsm: +90 532 495 6539
e-mail: cagdas"at"emekmarin.com
web: www.emekmarin.com

The yard that Riza uses is the best yard that we have ever visited. They have all of the proper equipment and more importantly, they use the equipment properly. Three legged jack stands properly chained together, concrete everywhere, all the right facilities and Riza's technicians are great. Riza is currently doing a few things on BeBe, including a new "desert sand" double boot stripe like the 55, antifouling, grease nipples on furler gear boxes, stern arch/davits and a few other minor things. I will post photos of the boot stripe when complete.

This week he has had 3 54's and 1 55 in for warranty work/service. His dock had 4 Amels tied up this week.

I only post information about suppliers and service companies when they are outstanding. I have no commercial connection with Emek Marin. I hope this information helps someone.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Gocek, Turkey


Haulout & Authorized Technical Amel Service in Turkey Eastern Mediterranean

Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
 

If anyone is looking for haulout or authorized Amel technical service and/or Amel warranty service in the Eastern Mediterranean, you should come to Gocek, Turkey and meet Riza at Emek Marin. I have experience with Nokta in Marmaris and without posting anything negative, Emek Marin is light years ahead of Nokta.

EMEK MARIN LTD.STI.
Address: Hurriyet Mah Ataturk Bul.No:1
48310 Gocek/Mugla/TURKEY
Tel: +90 252 645 2468 - 1551
Fax: +90 252 645 2899
Gsm: +90 532 495 6539
e-mail: cagdas"at"emekmarin.com
web: www.emekmarin.com

The yard that Riza uses is the best yard that we have ever visited. They have all of the proper equipment and more importantly, they use the equipment properly. Three legged jack stands properly chained together, concrete everywhere, all the right facilities and Riza's technicians are great. Riza is currently doing a few things on BeBe, including a new "desert sand" double boot stripe like the 55, antifouling, grease nipples on furler gear boxes, stern arch/davits and a few other minor things. I will post photos of the boot stripe when complete.

This week he has had 3 54's and 1 55 in for warranty work/service. His dock had 4 Amels tied up this week.

I only post information about suppliers and service companies when they are outstanding. I have no commercial connection with Emek Marin. I hope this information helps someone.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Gocek, Turkey


Re: [Amel] Yanmar ground solenoid.. Inox

lior 555 <lior246@...>
 

Thanks a lot Alan

Regards
Lior



2013/7/8 eric <ericmeury@yahoo.com>

**



Here is one in Switzerland


http://www.nocorro.com/index.php?option=com_content&;view=article&id=18&Itemid=15&lang=en

France

FRANCE
Pacific France
Import - Export
Le Bourge Route De La Gare
23800 St Sulpice Le Dunois
France Sales: Moana Longine
Telephone: 335 5589 0311
Fax: 335 5589 0311
Mob: 230 728 7799
Email: inox@pacificfrance.com

And to see a list world wide

http://www.inox-mx3.com/inox.htm

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, lior 555 <lior246@...> wrote:

Hi Alan

I searched in google for INOX and did not find anythithing. Can you maybe
write me where in Europe ist it possible to purchase it?

Thanks
Lior



2013/7/6 alan_leslie_elyes_sm2k <divanz620@...>

**


Hi Danny,

I understand what you are saying here, but I would NEVER use WD40 on
anything that I wanted not to corrode. WD40 might be fine at
dispersing the
water initially , but its chemical makeup makes it hydrophilic (ie it
attracts water), better in my humble opinion to use a product that it
is
intrinsically hydrophobic (ie repels water) like INOX...I don't carry
WD 40.
If you want to test the theory, get an old rusty tool, wire brush all
the
rust off it, spray it with WD40 and in 6 months I guarantee it will be
rusty again...do the same with INOX and it will be a looooong time
before
you see any signs of rust again.

Cheers from Port Vila
Hi to Yvonne

All the best
Alan
SY Elyse SM437



--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@
wrote:

Hi All,
these sort of problems arise from corrosion in our salt laden
atmosphere, any electrical connection is vulnerable. The answer is to
liberally and regularly spray all connections, alternators and electric
engines in the engine room with WD40 or in NZ CRC 5.56. (It feels
strange
to spray a liquid into an electric motor but it works) Avoid rubber
componants as much as possible (not vital) DO NOT use lubricant
enhanced
products, as these may be electrically conductive with resultant
issues.
They may be longer lasting in stopping rust but that is not our issue
here
WD 40 (WD = water dispersant) It gets in below and replaces it.
Regards
Danny
SM 299 Ocean Pearl
Currently Ovalau Island Fiji


________________________________
From: Giovanni Testa <gtesta23@>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, 2 July 2013 5:25 PM
Subject: [Amel] Yanmar ground solenoid




Hi to all,
at sunset , sailing Water Bligh, Fiji, I had to start my Yanmar to
go to
anchorage. Nothing…no engine. At the moment I remembered a similar
situation when we were sailing Eolie, Italy. It was the ground solenoid
fault. A W40 spray under the black rubber cover button solved the
problem.
And it was also in this very adrenalitic situation.

Now for me it is enough ! I want to eliminate/ bypass the ground
solenoid.
Any suggestions ?
If I directly connect the 2 black cables, what about the others
little
cables arriving to solenoid ?
May I have problem to switch off the engine ?
Thanks so much in advance
Giovanni TESTA
Sv EUTIKIA, SM2K n 428




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Re: [Amel] Yanmar ground solenoid.. Inox

Alan Leslie
 

The "miracle" ingredient is in fact lanolin.

The point is, that INOX and other lanolin based sprays / lubricants / greases etc are inherently HYDROPHOBIC...which means they repel water.

Products like WD40, CRC5-56 etc whilst initially acting as water dispersents, are, despite their "oily" nature, inherently HYDROPHILIC.... which means they attract water, so to be effective you must use them over and over again, because the water always comes back.

I know I would prefer a product that is Hydrophobic rather than Hydrophilic to use on a boat.

But, each to his own...its a free world (sort of)....

Cheers
Alan
SV Elyse SM437

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Dr Jörg Steffen <joerg.steffen@...> wrote:

As you see in

http://www.inox-mx3.com/inox.htm

there are a lot of INOX sprays with a lot of miracle ingediences
like MX5, MX6, mx7 ,mx8 an so on

Sure, it will help you to believe

Regards
Jörg Steffen


Re: [Amel] Volvo TMD22 Stop solenoid

Chris Smither <yachtakwaaba@...>
 

We have found DB marine in UK very helpful for spares .
They sent our new engine to Phuket for us.
Contact, Richard Abadee,
D. B. International Limited
Cookham Bridge
Cookham on Thames
Berkshire SL6 9SN


Tel: +44 (0)1628 526032
Fax: +44 (0)1628 520564
email: parts@dbmarine.co.uk

www. dbmarine.co.uk
They deal with many engine types including Volvo and Perkins.
Hope this helps,
Mike & Chris Smither
santorin sloop 'Akwaaba'


Volvo TMD22 Stop solenoid

Graham Boyd
 

There has been much chat about solenoid s on the yanmar, but here is one on the Volvo. My engine won't stop electrically. I have verified current is getting to the solenoid on the HP fuel pump. Has any one any tips on removing this solenoid from the pump, and is it likely I could fix the stuck solenoid or am I up for a new unit?

Incidentally I use VOLSPEC in the UK for all Volvo parts. They dispatch immediately and are significantly cheaper than anyone else. For you guys in the USA as for me here in HK the current exchange rate is also rather attractive!

Graham
SM140 SULA
Hong Kong


Re: [Amel] SuperMaramu Windshield

eric freedman
 

we tried using lexan for years but it was just too much maintainance for our jewelry store..
we went to buletproof 1/4inch glass in our windows and doors will stop a m4 round.
however it doesnt take much to spiderweb it like a car window. i still believe that plexiglass is the best choice or my Amel.
eric

sm 376

----- Original Message -----
From: islandbwoy4434
Date: Monday, July 8, 2013 1:08 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel] SuperMaramu Windshield
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com

Eric, Can you please clarify your statement. Are you using built
proof glass as a wind shield?
I have to tackle Libby's Windshield before we depart on our
circumnavigation next year.
I have toyed with the idea of bullet proof/tempered glass.
Any considerations with this thought that we need to make?

T.

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, kimberlite@... wrote:

Richard,
do you know where i can get 30mm hose for kimberlite.it goes
between the sea chest and the tranny cooler?

Ps we used to use lexan in our jewelry stores as it is
stronger than plexiglass. however we found that it scratches
more easily than plexiglass. we now use bulletproof glass.
fair winds
eric
sm376


----- Original Message -----
From: Richard03801
Date: Sunday, July 7, 2013 10:41 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel] SuperMaramu Windshield
To: "amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com"

Viet hi sorry about your window.
I west Annapolis is Marine Plastics they can make and
install a
new one. Might as well get both side done. We used lexan.
Will
send you a photo in the AM.
In Newport on SM 209.

Regards
Richard Piller
Fairbanks Yacht Group llc
Amel specialist for the Northeast
Cell 603 767 5330

On Jul 7, 2013, at 17:48, "veitm@..." wrote:

Hello All:

Just dropped my windshield into the harbor...unrecoverable
unfortunately.Good news: hadn't started polishing yet
Bad news: need a new one.
Question: does anyone know the thickness of the original?
(it
looks like either 10 or 12mm)
Also: Plexi or Polycarbonate - any experiences?

Last: can anybody suggest a good installer in the
Annapolis/Baltimore area?

Thanks,
Veit
SM215, ATMAN