NOTE: There is a typo in my previous message. The correct Part
Number for the currently available pump is PN 37072-0094.

I thought I would give a heads-up to those who have the Jabsco
Series 37245 Quite Flush Toilets on their boats. The service
information provided by Jabsco (in you Amel book with all the other
equipment manuals) says, "The toilet has no wearing parts that need
periodic replacement other than the shaft seal, which under normal
conditions, should provide several years of service before needing
replacement." The part about the shaft seal should have been in
bold print.

I had neglected to replace this seal on my toilet pump and at the
three-year mark one of my toilet pumps ceased to work. Disassembly
showed that the seal had failed, salt water had leaked around the
seal and past the slinger washer and entered the bearings of the
motor. NEW MOTOR NEEDED.

The motor used to come in 2 versions:
PN 37072-0024 (24 volt and US $119.88 from West Marine Special
Orders Desk)

OR

PN 37073-0094 (24 volt EMC, ?? electromagnetic European
certification, for US $174.99 from West Marine Special Orders Desk)

Jabsco has discontinued the -0024 version and only the more
expensive -0094 motor is available.

The 90197-0000 Service Kit contains the Joker Valve, some screws and
washers, the offending PN 1040-0000 seal that needs to be replaced,
and a new O-ring.

The seal was about US $4.85 and I plan on replacing it yearly from
now on as part of my on-going preventative maintenance.

Regards, Gary Silver SM #335

I HAVE RECENTLY PURCHASED A NEGLECTED 1985 MARAMU
WHICH HAS PROBLEMS WITH THE FURLING SYSTEM ON THE
MAIN.

AS NEAR AS I CAN TELL THE PROBLEM STARTED WITH A BOUND
UP BEARING AT THE TOP OF THE FURLER WHICH CAUSED THE
DRIVE SHAFT TO TWIST OFF INSIDE THE MAST JUST WHERE IT
GOES INTO THE BEVEL GEAR. I AM NOT SURE WHERE I SHOULD
GO OR WHOM I SHOULD CONTACT FOR SERVICE INFORMATION
AND PARTS FOR THIS BOAT.

DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY EXPERIENCE WITH PROBLEMS OF THIS
NATURE AND ANY ADVICE?

THANKS, DENNIS STULLER SVCHEECHAKO@YAHOO.COM




__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail - now with 250MB free storage. Learn more.
http://info.mail.yahoo.com/mail_250

Alaskan Fisherman use Bag Balm, it's inexpensive and seems to work fine.

Mike McCarthy Mango #15

John, could you give me a contact number for the Palma distributor, thanks

Mark Shann (Maramu Synnefoula)

Best Regards

Mark Shann

___________________________________
Geological Advisor / Nile Regional Team Leader: BP Egypt Gas
Tel: +20 2-706-2437 Mobile: +20 (0)12 244 6153
TZ: Egypt Standard (GMT+2)

-----Original Message-----
From: John McDougall [mailto:j.c.mcdougall@btinternet.com]
Sent: Tuesday, January 11, 2005 12:21 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Algae etc on Propeller




Thanks for that - I last searched the web for it in the summer &
couldn't find it but it's there now. Seems to be only one
distributor in Europe - in Palma. Don't know how my contact got it!
John
-- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, jjwiggin02 <no_reply@y...>
wrote:

Web site for the prosuct is http://www.propspeedusa.com/

Jim Wiggin

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "John McDougall" <j.c.
mcdougall@b...> wrote:

I had very severe problems of hard, barnacle type fouling on the
prop of my SM330, berthed in Antibes (quite near to Paul - tonic
102004).
In summer, max revs would drop to 1750 after about a month if

the

boat was not used. It was necessary to employ a diver to clean

the

prop at considerable expense. I tried various antifoulings,
including woolfat (lanolin) without success.
This year I was told by another (non Amel) owner that there were
very good reports of a new product called Prop Speed from New
Zealand. I obtained it from a chandler in Antibes and it was
applied in early May. The result was excellent. Max revs.

were

attainable throughout the summer. I checked this by swimming
underneath and the prop remained totally clean and slightly

slippery

to the touch.
In late Aug I sailed to Dubrovnik where the boat has remained

since

and so I cannot update further till next spring.
Prop Speed is a two pack, silicon based product sold in a pack

which

is sufficient for 2/3 applications. I cannot locate a source

for it

on the web although it is mentioned by Australian yards who use

it.

It is very expensive - I was charged 175euros (ripped off?) but

the

results were so good I shall continue to use it. A diver every
month was about 80 euros a time.
I should add that at the time of application my Autoprop was

removed

due to a recall by the manufacturer, Bruntons, and so my

experience

relates to the use of the alternative, fixed blade prop supplied

by

Amel but I don't think this would alter the results.
I'd be interested to hear of any other experiences of this

product -

if anyone can find it!

Regards
John

Yahoo! Groups Links

Thanks for that - I last searched the web for it in the summer &
couldn't find it but it's there now. Seems to be only one
distributor in Europe - in Palma. Don't know how my contact got it!
John
-- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, jjwiggin02 <no_reply@y...>
wrote:

Web site for the prosuct is http://www.propspeedusa.com/

Jim Wiggin

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "John McDougall" <j.c.
mcdougall@b...> wrote:

I had very severe problems of hard, barnacle type fouling on the
prop of my SM330, berthed in Antibes (quite near to Paul - tonic
102004).
In summer, max revs would drop to 1750 after about a month if

the

boat was not used. It was necessary to employ a diver to clean

the

prop at considerable expense. I tried various antifoulings,
including woolfat (lanolin) without success.
This year I was told by another (non Amel) owner that there were
very good reports of a new product called Prop Speed from New
Zealand. I obtained it from a chandler in Antibes and it was
applied in early May. The result was excellent. Max revs.

were

attainable throughout the summer. I checked this by swimming
underneath and the prop remained totally clean and slightly

slippery

to the touch.
In late Aug I sailed to Dubrovnik where the boat has remained

since

and so I cannot update further till next spring.
Prop Speed is a two pack, silicon based product sold in a pack

which

is sufficient for 2/3 applications. I cannot locate a source

for it

on the web although it is mentioned by Australian yards who use

it.

It is very expensive - I was charged 175euros (ripped off?) but

the

results were so good I shall continue to use it. A diver every
month was about 80 euros a time.
I should add that at the time of application my Autoprop was

removed

due to a recall by the manufacturer, Bruntons, and so my

experience

relates to the use of the alternative, fixed blade prop supplied

by

Amel but I don't think this would alter the results.
I'd be interested to hear of any other experiences of this

product -

if anyone can find it!

Regards
John

Web site for the prosuct is http://www.propspeedusa.com/

Jim Wiggin

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "John McDougall" <j.c.
mcdougall@b...> wrote:

I had very severe problems of hard, barnacle type fouling on the
prop of my SM330, berthed in Antibes (quite near to Paul - tonic
102004).
In summer, max revs would drop to 1750 after about a month if the
boat was not used. It was necessary to employ a diver to clean the
prop at considerable expense. I tried various antifoulings,
including woolfat (lanolin) without success.
This year I was told by another (non Amel) owner that there were
very good reports of a new product called Prop Speed from New
Zealand. I obtained it from a chandler in Antibes and it was
applied in early May. The result was excellent. Max revs. were
attainable throughout the summer. I checked this by swimming
underneath and the prop remained totally clean and slightly slippery
to the touch.
In late Aug I sailed to Dubrovnik where the boat has remained since
and so I cannot update further till next spring.
Prop Speed is a two pack, silicon based product sold in a pack which
is sufficient for 2/3 applications. I cannot locate a source for it
on the web although it is mentioned by Australian yards who use it.
It is very expensive - I was charged 175euros (ripped off?) but the
results were so good I shall continue to use it. A diver every
month was about 80 euros a time.
I should add that at the time of application my Autoprop was removed
due to a recall by the manufacturer, Bruntons, and so my experience
relates to the use of the alternative, fixed blade prop supplied by
Amel but I don't think this would alter the results.
I'd be interested to hear of any other experiences of this product -
if anyone can find it!

Regards
John

I had very severe problems of hard, barnacle type fouling on the
prop of my SM330, berthed in Antibes (quite near to Paul - tonic
102004).
In summer, max revs would drop to 1750 after about a month if the
boat was not used. It was necessary to employ a diver to clean the
prop at considerable expense. I tried various antifoulings,
including woolfat (lanolin) without success.
This year I was told by another (non Amel) owner that there were
very good reports of a new product called Prop Speed from New
Zealand. I obtained it from a chandler in Antibes and it was
applied in early May. The result was excellent. Max revs. were
attainable throughout the summer. I checked this by swimming
underneath and the prop remained totally clean and slightly slippery
to the touch.
In late Aug I sailed to Dubrovnik where the boat has remained since
and so I cannot update further till next spring.
Prop Speed is a two pack, silicon based product sold in a pack which
is sufficient for 2/3 applications. I cannot locate a source for it
on the web although it is mentioned by Australian yards who use it.
It is very expensive - I was charged 175euros (ripped off?) but the
results were so good I shall continue to use it. A diver every
month was about 80 euros a time.
I should add that at the time of application my Autoprop was removed
due to a recall by the manufacturer, Bruntons, and so my experience
relates to the use of the alternative, fixed blade prop supplied by
Amel but I don't think this would alter the results.
I'd be interested to hear of any other experiences of this product -
if anyone can find it!

Regards
John

Is there a reason why props should not be painted? I first painted a prop when I bought a Maramu ,( fixed blades)in Majorca ten years ago where, left unpainted, a prop was quickly covered in concrete like secretions. As far as I could tell every boat there painted their prop. I used the same paint as I put on the bottom, Internationals top cruising mixture. Did so for 6 years. No problems.
On our SM I have followed suit.Used Jotun ( unimpresed by its antifouling proerties but it stayed on the prop OK). Then used some Hempel picked up in Panama ( the last ,alas,of that wonderful old stuff where all marine life within 20 meters quietly expires) and now on to Internationals top racing mixture ( Micron Optima?) bought in Chile at a price that will bring tears to your eyes...about US$50 per gallon. Thank God for the Chilean Armada ( navy) which insists that the International office in Valparaiso stocks a few tins for its two ancient racing boats because otherwise there is no market here for such gofaster stuff.
I have always applied a couple of coats of theses various antifoulings to my props, both fixed and Autoprop.I have made sure that the surface was reasonably clean before painting but not shiny clean. The paints have all stuck OK and done their jobs in water temperatures varying from Tropical to glacial. Since the boat was launched in June 2000 we have done about 20,000 miles with about 1400 hours motoring.
Am I missing something? Is there a reason either not to paint or alternatively to use only some hifalutin and hipriced special prop paint?
Heres hoping there isnt! Happy New Year! Ian and Judy Jenkins, SM 302, Pen Azen, Puerto Montt, Chile

Hi Mark, Regarding flushing your waterr maker after the lay up period. Yes, chlorine does dissapate in your tank after a few months. To be on the safe side order a chlorine tester from Hach co. 800-2274224. $35.00. In as much as you only have to flush the unit for 5 minutes, it may be just as easy to buy about 3 or 4 gallons of distilled water from the grocery store, disconnect the intake hose, put it in a bucket full of the water and turn on the unit. No problem !!!
John "Moon Dog" sm248

From: rbenven44 <no_reply@yahoogroups.com>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: watermaker spring commissioning
Date: Fri, 31 Dec 2004 20:24:16 -0000


I would suggest buying a water filter housing from Sears or a similar
source, inserting an activated charcoal filter, and using that
whenever you fill your water tank from shore sources. Put it in line
in your water hose. Then your water tank won't have any chlorine in
it. The advantage is that whenever you flush your watermaker it will
be with non-chlorinated water, and the membranes will last longer.
Also, your water will taste better. The downside is that things are
more likely to grow in your tank, so clean it out at least every six
months with a good dose of chlorine, then dump the water. DON'T use
it to flush your watermaker, it will kill the membranes.
The alternative is to find a way to fit a charcoal filter in line in
the flush water for the watermaker. I haven't figured out how to do
that. I wish AMEL did that in their installation...
Roy

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, markmpitt <no_reply@y...>
wrote:

I pickled my watermaker and added food-grade anti-freeze for the
winter. If my town's water may be chlorinated, how should I flush

the

watermaker in the spring without harming the membrane? Does letting
town water sit in the tank for a few day dissipate any chlorine? I
see that Spectra and some other watermaker companies ship their

units

with a activated carbon filter in the flush cycle to remove

chlorine.

Mark Pitt
ASM #419 "Sabbatical III"

_________________________________________________________________
Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's FREE! hthttp://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/

Eric's posting on cleaning water tanks and hoses is excellent and
thorough. We also use our charcoal filter every time we fill the
water tank, ensuring that there is no chlorine in the tank,
and "shock treat" it twice a year with a good dose of bleach.
The other thing you can do, especially if you are a bit obsessive
about clean water tanks, is to remove the access plates to the water
tank, located on the cabin sole, and clean the tank out by hand. On
the Maramu, this was very easy, as the access plates were all easy to
get to. On the SM, only one is easily accessible, the one under the
galley floor. The other ones require some disassembly. One is under
the seat fridge/freezer (aft seat of dinette), the other one under
the galley (under the sink in my boat, probably under the fridge on
the SM 2000!!). Look on the boat plans to see where they are. They
are easy to remove (once you find them) and they give access to the
entire water tank. We open them up every couple of years and give
the tank a thorough scrubbing. For those unwilling to remove
furniture, at least open the one under the galley floor, to see what
your tank looks like. I'm sure a good chlorine dose will do a fine
job on all that grows down there.

Happy drinking!

Roy Benveniste
SM Excalibur #195

Here is some info I received about cleaning water tanks,

Fair winds,

Eric Freedman

Sm 376 Kimberlite



WATER TANK

Although most people think only in terms of the tank, the plumbing is
actually the source of most foul water, because the molds, mildew, fungi and
bacteria which cause it thrive in damp dark places, not under water. Many
people-and even some boat manufacturers-believe that keeping the tanks empty
reduce the problem, but an empty water tank only provides another damp dark
home for those "critters."

There are all kinds of products sold that claim to keep onboard water fresh,
but all that's really necessary is an annual or in especially warm climates,
semi-annual recommissioning of the entire system-tank and plumbing. The
following recommendations conform to section 10.8 in the A-1 192 code
covering electrical, plumbing, and heating of recreational vehicles. The
solution is approved and recommended by competent health officials. It may
be used in a new system a used one that has not been used for a period of
time, or one that may have been contaminated. It's safe to use in tanks made
of any material:

Before beginning, turn off hot water heater at the breaker; do not turn it
on again until the entire recommissioning is complete.

Icemakers should be left running to allow cleaning out of the water feed
line; however the first two buckets of ice-the bucket generated during
recommissioning and the first bucketful afterward--should be discarded.

1. Prepare a chlorine solution using one gallon of water and 1/2 cup (4 oz)
Clorox or Purex household bleach (5% sodium Hypochlorine solution ). With
tank empty, pour chlorine solution into tank. Use one gallon of solution for
each 5 gallons of tank capacity.

2. Complete filling of tank with fresh water. Open each faucet and drain
cock until air has been released and the entire system is filled. Do not
turn off the pump; it must remain on to keep the system pressurized and the
solution in the lines

3. Allow to stand for at least three hours, but no longer than 24 hours.

4 Drain through every faucet on the boat (and if you haven't done this in a
while, it's a good idea to remove any diffusion screens from the faucets,
because what's likely to come out will clog them). Fill the tank again with
fresh water only, drain again through every faucet on the boat.

5. To remove excess chlorine taste or odor which might remain, prepare a
solution of one quart white vinegar to five gallons water and allow this
solution to agitate in tank for several days by vehicle motion.

6. Drain tank again through every faucet, and flush the lines again by fill
the tank 1/4-1/2 full and again flushing with potable water.

People have expressed concern about using this method to recommissioning
aluminum tanks. While bleach (chlorine) IS corrosive, it's effects are are
cumulative. So the effect of an annual or semi-annual "shock treatment" is
negligible compared to the cumulative effect of holding chlorinated city
water in the tank for years. Nevertheless, it's a good idea to mix the total
amount of bleach in a few gallons of water before putting it into either a
stainless or aluminum tank.

People have also expressed concern about the potential damage to rubber and
neoprene water pump parts. Again-the cumulative effect of carrying
chlorinated water is far more damaging over time than the occasional "shock
treatment." And it's that cumulative effect that makes it a VERY bad idea to
add a little bleach to each fill. Not only does it damage the system, but
unless you add enough to make your water taste and smell like a laundry,
it's not enough to do any good. Even if it were, any "purifying" properties
in chlorine evaporate within 24 hours, leaving behind only the corrosive
properties.

An annual or semi-annual recommissioning according to the above directions
is all that should be necessary to keep your water tasting and smelling as
good as anything that comes out of any faucet on land. If you need to
improve on that, install a water filter. Just remember that a filter is not
a substitute for cleaning out the system, and that filters require regular
inspection and cleaning or replacement.

To keep the water system cleaner longer, use your fresh water...keep water
flowing through system. The molds, fungi, and bacteria only start to grow in
hoses that aren't being used. Before filling the tank each time, always let
the dock water run for at least 15 minutes first...the same critters that
like the lines on your boat LOVE the dock supply line and your hose that sit
in the warm sun, and you certainly don't want to transfer water that's been
sitting in the dock supply line to your boat's system. So let the water run
long enough to flush out all the water that's been standing in them so that
what goes into your boat is coming straight from the water main.

We, too, have discovered that this sensor is simply a 2 minute timer
with no relationship to water quality. We do have the small control
panel faucet which we use regularly, as well as drinking our product
water. If you, Ben, do find out how the sensors were rewired, it
would be valuable to all of us. Since we have the extra sea gull
filter our water quality has remained very good with over 800 hours
on the water maker with some of the same problems you have had. We
winterized our water maker this winter since we are stored in Maine
and hope it will "wake up" in the Spring. We have found that the
chlorine testers for salt water fish tanks work very well for
testing the chlorine content of city water. We have, however, run
every drop of city/marina/yacht club water through a charcoal filter
which we simply add onto the delivery hose. We have not, however,
cleaned out the water tanks and would like information on how much
chlorine, how much water, how much mixing (i.e. wind and wave
action) we might need to finally do this. Thanks. Pete & Mary,
Noelia #244



--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, rbenven44 <no_reply@y...>
wrote:

A few years ago, when we were in the Med, we met another Super

Maramu

that had discovered that the watermaker had a 2-minute delay at

start-

up, and an inoperative salinity sensor. The owner was told by
Dessalator that Amel had requested the units be installed that way

so

that owners would not have to clean the salinity sensor, and so

that

occasional sensing errors would not shut down the system. This

was

part of Amel's "low-maintenance" approach.
This owner then rewired the control panel to activate the sensor,

and

I believe that it has worked fine since then. We did not do it to
our boat, as I was happy tasting the product at the control panel
faucet (don't the new boats have this?) to verify proper operation.
By the way, we have 875 hours on our watermaker over 8 seasons

with

no problems other than the leaks in the old membrane plastic end

cap

fittings (which Dessalator replaced with SS ones a few years back).
Rather than post this owner's name on the web site, I will contact
him directly and ask him to post on the web site how he rewired

the

unit to activate the salinity sensor.
Happy New Year to all.

Roy Benveniste
SM Excalibur #195

We have had some success with an Aussie product called GOOP. It is
anhydrous lanolin, and depending on where the boat sits will keep
the buildup of algae & barnacles under control between dives. We
are able to dive on the prop quite regularly when in the tropics--we
have a 50 foot hose connected directly to our dive tank so it is not
so paraphanalia intensive. When we move back to New England we do
have to clean the prop once in the 4-5 months we are in the colder
waters. We do not spend much time in marinas, but did find out
early on that marinas cause lots of build up. The auto prop must be
very clean or else RPM decreases to an alarming state. We have
never painted the prop because we were advised against this. We
would be interested to know if there is a safe paint for an auto
prop since the Auto prop representative said "no". We found the
GOOP product through AB Marine. Email address sales@abmarine.com.
On a similiar note, we also were advised by auto prop to replace the
red plastic shipping nut with the appropriate zinc. We have "eaten"
lots of prop zincs, but the rudder zincs last longer. The rudder
zinc is quite a distance from the prop, so we feel that we have
better protection. Perhaps Amel has changed this on later SMs.
Pete and Mary on Noelia



--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "tonic102004"
<paebersold@f...> wrote:

I am new owner of a used sm (227). I did not use it much until

know.

The boat is well maintained and in very good condition, we like it
very much. Nevertheless, there seems to be a problem with algae
development on the propeller when the boat lays for a few weeks in
the marina. Actualy the boat is in SanRemo in the Med. After a few
weeks not beeing used, the engines gets up to 1700t/m instead of

2500

or more. The previous owner had evertime asked a diver to clean

the

propeller before navigating.
Has anybody experience in solving this problem. Or is the only way
diving and cleaning?
Thanks
Paul

I would suggest buying a water filter housing from Sears or a similar
source, inserting an activated charcoal filter, and using that
whenever you fill your water tank from shore sources. Put it in line
in your water hose. Then your water tank won't have any chlorine in
it. The advantage is that whenever you flush your watermaker it will
be with non-chlorinated water, and the membranes will last longer.
Also, your water will taste better. The downside is that things are
more likely to grow in your tank, so clean it out at least every six
months with a good dose of chlorine, then dump the water. DON'T use
it to flush your watermaker, it will kill the membranes.
The alternative is to find a way to fit a charcoal filter in line in
the flush water for the watermaker. I haven't figured out how to do
that. I wish AMEL did that in their installation...
Roy

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, markmpitt <no_reply@y...>
wrote:

I pickled my watermaker and added food-grade anti-freeze for the
winter. If my town's water may be chlorinated, how should I flush

the

watermaker in the spring without harming the membrane? Does letting
town water sit in the tank for a few day dissipate any chlorine? I
see that Spectra and some other watermaker companies ship their

units

with a activated carbon filter in the flush cycle to remove

chlorine.

Mark Pitt
ASM #419 "Sabbatical III"

Hi,

We have owned our Sharki (number 121) since 1990, lived aboard for 13 years and circumnavigated aboard her. If you have any questions (other than about windvane steering as we don't have any) we would be glad to help if we can.

We know of a Sharki named WASABI owned by a Canadian couple who also circumnavigated aboard her before selling the boat. They did have windvane steering, but unfortunately, I don't recall what brand they had. The problem, of course, in installing windvane steering on a Sharki is the mizzen boom. The blade on the windvane must be "tacked" under the boom when tacking -- potentially a problem.

There have been several occasions over the years when I wished I had windvane steering as a backup to our VERY reliable but power hungry NECO autopilot.

Steve Leeds

Yacht MACCABEE




---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
The all-new My Yahoo! – What will yours do?

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, north pitney <northp@m...>
wrote:

I would be very interested to get the group's ideas about wind vane
steering for my Sharki.
I am looking most closely at the Windpilot Pacific Plus.
http://www.windpilot.de/en/Ra/raproen.html
Thank you for your input,
-North
Sharki #30
Laboratorium (nee Amadee)

My wife and I also bought a Sharki in Fort Lauderdale last summer so we
were interested to see you requests for information
I can help with a fluid and an electrical diagram, having only spent a couple of
weeks aboard since the purchase a lot of the systems are still unknown to me
and I would appreciate any info the membership could provide
David and Hazel Worthington

I pickled my watermaker and added food-grade anti-freeze for the
winter. If my town's water may be chlorinated, how should I flush the
watermaker in the spring without harming the membrane? Does letting
town water sit in the tank for a few day dissipate any chlorine? I
see that Spectra and some other watermaker companies ship their units
with a activated carbon filter in the flush cycle to remove chlorine.

Mark Pitt
ASM #419 "Sabbatical III"

Plastimo references :

- ref 18344 primer
- ref 27442 grey or 27441 black for bottom paint

Do not hesitate to apply 4 coats of bottom paint, because coats are very
thin with a spray. Protect neighbourhood with cardboard and tape to
avoid dirties on hull

Patrick

A few years ago, when we were in the Med, we met another Super Maramu
that had discovered that the watermaker had a 2-minute delay at start-
up, and an inoperative salinity sensor. The owner was told by
Dessalator that Amel had requested the units be installed that way so
that owners would not have to clean the salinity sensor, and so that
occasional sensing errors would not shut down the system. This was
part of Amel's "low-maintenance" approach.
This owner then rewired the control panel to activate the sensor, and
I believe that it has worked fine since then. We did not do it to
our boat, as I was happy tasting the product at the control panel
faucet (don't the new boats have this?) to verify proper operation.
By the way, we have 875 hours on our watermaker over 8 seasons with
no problems other than the leaks in the old membrane plastic end cap
fittings (which Dessalator replaced with SS ones a few years back).
Rather than post this owner's name on the web site, I will contact
him directly and ask him to post on the web site how he rewired the
unit to activate the salinity sensor.
Happy New Year to all.

Roy Benveniste
SM Excalibur #195