Date   

Re: [Amel] Engine room fans 220V Fan above Onan.. Capacitors

Anne and John Hollamby <annejohnholl@...>
 

Hi Alexandre, and Bill,
Yes, of course it is OK to use my name. Thanks for the pics, now I will have to wrap my old bones round the gen set and make the replacement.
By the way buy the replacement capacitor in an electronics shop for €4 or 5 or get the same one from a Climma agent or other aircon mechanic and it will cost €65. If you look on Google for electric motor capacitor you will probably learn a lot. I did and I will go back for more.
For example capacitors may be attached to a motor to act as a start capacitor or they may be a run capacitor as in this case!! The construction is the same but the spec. is different and it seems that the motor decides what it wants to use it for.

Best wishes, Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM 319, Marina di Ragusa

From: Alexandre Uster von Baar
Sent: Thursday, August 22, 2013 11:13 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel] Engine room fans 220V Fan above Onan.


Just added some pictures to: http://nikimat.com/engine_room_fans.html

John, let me know if this is ok to mention your name.

Sincerely, Alexandre

--------------------------------------------
On Thu, 8/22/13, Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <mailto:yahoogroups%40svbebe.com> wrote:

Subject: [Amel] Engine room fans 220V Fan above Onan.
To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, August 22, 2013, 8:19 AM


























John,



I want to thank you for pointing out the 2 mfd capacitor on
the 220V exhaust fan. I had a feeling this exhaust fan was
turning slower, so I check the cap and yes it was out of
spec. I replaced it with the exact capacitor which is used
on the Climma Fan Motor. I had some spares.



And yes, the fan is blowing better now.



Photo at Photo Albums > Onan MDKVA - OR, link to it here:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1489622282/pic/793800192/view?picmode=&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc



Hope this helps anyone with a slowing exhaust fan.



Bill

BeBe, SM2k, #387

Turkey, having the solar arch installed by Emek Marine



--- In mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com,
"Anne and John Hollamby " <annejohnholl@...>
wrote:

Hello Alexandre, The first company I went to could not
do it, the second was a big commercial galvaniser used by
manufacturers of all sizes of iron goods and so their hot
dip tank must have been huge length and depthwise. If I was
unable to find such a company I think that I would wait
until I could or buy a new chain. I mentioned in several
previous posts that we have bolted some zinc anodes on to
the chain next to the anchor and this may be why the
galvanising is long lasting.

I too would like to know where your photos of the
engine room fans are located . I have found the fuse and
also a 2 mfd capacitor beside it and wonder whether that
capacitor is partly defective thus causing the fan to run
slowly. Certainly my engine room gets very hot when both
engines are running. I am procrastinating over replacing the
capacitor as it is in a hard place to get at and am not sure
that the fan is not running at it’s full speed.

Best wishes, Anne and John,
Bali Hai, SM 319, Licata

From: Alexandre Uster von Baar
Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2013 1:50 AM
To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com

Subject: RE: [Amel] Chain too long to be
regalvanized...

Haven't done anything yet.
I thought I could have it sandblasted, then do a cold
galvanized spay, then paint it.

I am open to suggestion!
Sincerely, Alexandre
--------------------------------------------
On Tue, 8/20/13, Sailorman
<mailto:kimberlite%40optonline.net> wrote:

Subject: RE: [Amel] Chain too long to be
regalvanized...

To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, August 20, 2013, 5:42 PM
What did you do with the spade anchor?
Fair Winds
Eric
Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite
_____
From: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
[mailto:mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Alexandre Uster von
Baar
Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2013 6:47 AM
To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel] Chain too long to be
regalvanized...

Good morning Anne and John,
One of my anchor (Spade) has a lot of rust and was
told

twice it needs to be
regalvanized, since the galvanizing company have a
minimum

order/weight, I
thought I would bring everything... The first company
couldn't do the chain,
becausethey didn't had the basket to
"centrifuge

the chain. The second
company had the basket, but as I mentionned too small.

Alexandre
--------------------------------------------
On Tue, 8/20/13, Anne and John Hollamby
<mailto:annejohnholl%40gmail.com

<mailto:annejohnholl%40gmail.com> > wrote:
Subject: Re: [Amel] Chain too long to be
regalvanized...

To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Date: Tuesday, August 20, 2013, 3:46 AM
Hello Alex, Why did you think it needed
regalvanising and why did they think you were wrong?
We had our 80 mtr chain hot dip galvanised in Spain
about

four years ago and it is still perfect but only used
for

2/3
months of the year. To do it they did not have a tank
81

metres deep so they made a number of hooks out of
strong

wire and looped the chain so that was shorter than the
tank.
It was very hot when it came out!
Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM319, Licata
From: Alex
Sent: Monday, August 19, 2013 10:25 PM
To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [Amel] Chain too long to be regalvanized...
Thought I would share my experience.
So yesterday, spend the whole day removing my 2 anchors
and

2 chains, bringing my ski boat under, etc.
The longest one at 90 meter (300 ft) which weight 200
kg /

450 LBS. So was prety physical...
Early this morning arrived at K T Galvanizing (in
Katy,

near
Houston, so about 1.5 hours from the Marina) and they
told

me my chain was too long for their equipment!!!
But good news, they said I don't need to
regalvanized

the chain.
They said easily 10 more years.
Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Seabrook, Texas, USA
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
_____
I am using the Free version of SPAMfighter <http://www.spamfighter.com/len>
.
SPAMfighter has removed 1887 of my spam emails to
date.

Do you have a slow PC? <http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen>
Try a free scan!
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





























[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Engine room fans 220V Fan above Onan.. Capacitors

Anne and John Hollamby <annejohnholl@...>
 

Hi Alexandre, Yes, of course it is OK to use my name. By the way buy the replacement capacitor in an electronics shop for €4 or 5 or get the same one from a Climma agent or other aircon mechanic and it will cost €65. If you look on Google for electric motor capacitor you will probably learn a lot. I did and I will go back for more.
For example capacitors may be attached to a motor to act as a start capacitor or they may be a run capacitor as in this case!! The construction is the same but the spec. is different and it seems that the motor decides what it wants to use it for.

Best wishes, Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM 319, Marina di Ragusa
From: Alexandre Uster von Baar
Sent: Thursday, August 22, 2013 11:13 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel] Engine room fans 220V Fan above Onan.


Just added some pictures to: http://nikimat.com/engine_room_fans.html

John, let me know if this is ok to mention your name.

Sincerely, Alexandre

--------------------------------------------
On Thu, 8/22/13, Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <mailto:yahoogroups%40svbebe.com> wrote:

Subject: [Amel] Engine room fans 220V Fan above Onan.
To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, August 22, 2013, 8:19 AM


























John,



I want to thank you for pointing out the 2 mfd capacitor on
the 220V exhaust fan. I had a feeling this exhaust fan was
turning slower, so I check the cap and yes it was out of
spec. I replaced it with the exact capacitor which is used
on the Climma Fan Motor. I had some spares.



And yes, the fan is blowing better now.



Photo at Photo Albums > Onan MDKVA - OR, link to it here:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1489622282/pic/793800192/view?picmode=&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc



Hope this helps anyone with a slowing exhaust fan.



Bill

BeBe, SM2k, #387

Turkey, having the solar arch installed by Emek Marine



--- In mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com,
"Anne and John Hollamby " <annejohnholl@...>
wrote:

Hello Alexandre, The first company I went to could not
do it, the second was a big commercial galvaniser used by
manufacturers of all sizes of iron goods and so their hot
dip tank must have been huge length and depthwise. If I was
unable to find such a company I think that I would wait
until I could or buy a new chain. I mentioned in several
previous posts that we have bolted some zinc anodes on to
the chain next to the anchor and this may be why the
galvanising is long lasting.

I too would like to know where your photos of the
engine room fans are located . I have found the fuse and
also a 2 mfd capacitor beside it and wonder whether that
capacitor is partly defective thus causing the fan to run
slowly. Certainly my engine room gets very hot when both
engines are running. I am procrastinating over replacing the
capacitor as it is in a hard place to get at and am not sure
that the fan is not running at it’s full speed.

Best wishes, Anne and John,
Bali Hai, SM 319, Licata

From: Alexandre Uster von Baar
Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2013 1:50 AM
To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com

Subject: RE: [Amel] Chain too long to be
regalvanized...

Haven't done anything yet.
I thought I could have it sandblasted, then do a cold
galvanized spay, then paint it.

I am open to suggestion!
Sincerely, Alexandre
--------------------------------------------
On Tue, 8/20/13, Sailorman
<mailto:kimberlite%40optonline.net> wrote:

Subject: RE: [Amel] Chain too long to be
regalvanized...

To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, August 20, 2013, 5:42 PM
What did you do with the spade anchor?
Fair Winds
Eric
Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite
_____
From: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
[mailto:mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Alexandre Uster von
Baar
Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2013 6:47 AM
To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel] Chain too long to be
regalvanized...

Good morning Anne and John,
One of my anchor (Spade) has a lot of rust and was
told

twice it needs to be
regalvanized, since the galvanizing company have a
minimum

order/weight, I
thought I would bring everything... The first company
couldn't do the chain,
becausethey didn't had the basket to
"centrifuge

the chain. The second
company had the basket, but as I mentionned too small.

Alexandre
--------------------------------------------
On Tue, 8/20/13, Anne and John Hollamby
<mailto:annejohnholl%40gmail.com

<mailto:annejohnholl%40gmail.com> > wrote:
Subject: Re: [Amel] Chain too long to be
regalvanized...

To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Date: Tuesday, August 20, 2013, 3:46 AM
Hello Alex, Why did you think it needed
regalvanising and why did they think you were wrong?
We had our 80 mtr chain hot dip galvanised in Spain
about

four years ago and it is still perfect but only used
for

2/3
months of the year. To do it they did not have a tank
81

metres deep so they made a number of hooks out of
strong

wire and looped the chain so that was shorter than the
tank.
It was very hot when it came out!
Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM319, Licata
From: Alex
Sent: Monday, August 19, 2013 10:25 PM
To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [Amel] Chain too long to be regalvanized...
Thought I would share my experience.
So yesterday, spend the whole day removing my 2 anchors
and

2 chains, bringing my ski boat under, etc.
The longest one at 90 meter (300 ft) which weight 200
kg /

450 LBS. So was prety physical...
Early this morning arrived at K T Galvanizing (in
Katy,

near
Houston, so about 1.5 hours from the Marina) and they
told

me my chain was too long for their equipment!!!
But good news, they said I don't need to
regalvanized

the chain.
They said easily 10 more years.
Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Seabrook, Texas, USA
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
_____
I am using the Free version of SPAMfighter <http://www.spamfighter.com/len>
.
SPAMfighter has removed 1887 of my spam emails to
date.

Do you have a slow PC? <http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen>
Try a free scan!
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





























[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Solar panels for Amel Super Maramu 53

Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Kent, they were not rigged when that photo was taken. They are rigged now and work well to raise the dinghy and also the passerelle.

Regarding the weight, it did not seem to make a noticeable difference.

Bill
BeBe

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Kent Robertson <karkauai@...> wrote:

Hi, Bill,
I don't see any lines for davits.  Is your arch a dinghy davit as well?  If it's not, why didn't you add that capability?  I would like to have davits for most island hopping and anchoring out, but would tie the dink down on the deck for passages.  I was thinking I'd like an arch similar to yours that could be used for both solar panels and davits.  The extra weight aft would certainly make her even more stern-low in the water.
Thanks,
Kent
SM 243 Kristy
Brunswick, GA USA




________________________________
From: Peter Forbes <ppsforbes@...>
To: "amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 22, 2013 1:13 PM
Subject: Re: [Amel] Solar panels for Amel Super Maramu 53



 
Bill,

Your arch looks terrific - good investment I think.

I hope you will still be there on 5th Sept when I'm back in Goçek.

Peter

Peter Forbes

07836 209730
ppsforbes@...

On 22 Aug 2013, at 14:40, "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@...> wrote:

I just posted photos of the Emek Marine solar arch installation which is about 90% complete. 3 X 140 Kyocera panels.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1515064489/pic/102870028/view?picmode=&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Gocek, Turkey

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@> wrote:

Stefano,

No drawings, just a photograph. The unique design was made by Emek Marine in Turkey. Possibly Emek will sell you enough information to duplicate it, but since the design is unique, I doubt that they will.

Contact: cagdas"at"emekmarin.com

Bill
BeBe


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Stefano Biffi <cptbiffi@> wrote:

Hi and tks for the suggestion. Do you already have drawings for a SM installation. I'm looking also to have the airgen at the same location. Any suggestion closer to me today (italy)?

Stefano on board N'EVEREST
SM185 in Bocca di Magra

Il giorno 17/ago/2013, alle ore 11:41, "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@> ha scritto:

Tony,

The best looking design that I have seen is made in Gocek, Turkey. It is a multi-functional solar arch. See the photo at: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1515064489/pic/2126077749/view?picmode=large&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc

If you are in the Med, I suggest you get one in Turkey.

Also, Peter Forbes s/v Carango just had one of these installed and we are getting a version of it for BeBe (SM).

Hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Gocek, Turkey

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Tony Robinson <tonywrobinson51@> wrote:

Hi everyone.

Has anybody fitted solar panels to their Amel 54 ? I would welcome any thoughts/recommendations. I had two 50W panels on my last boat - an OVNI 435 - and I thought they were the best bit of kit on the boat. The batteries were kept topped up throughout the winter and with 4/5 amps being delivered for most of the day in summer they provided a useful supplement to the other means of charging i.e. the engine.

Tony Robinson - Catriona R Amel 54Â no.102



________________________________
From: Duncan <wdhagemeyer@>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 7, 2013 9:44 PM
Subject: RE: [Amel] Battery Plan for Amel 54



Â
Hi Richard,

Mine is 009. And has a 12 battery/12V bank.

Do you have any suggestions regarding inverters, or smart control panels? I am learning from my cabin experience that there are many types.

Duncan

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com [mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Richard03801
Sent: Wednesday, August 07, 2013 1:55 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel] Battry Plan for Amel 54

Battery size for the later boats is size 31.

Regards
Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

On Aug 7, 2013, at 13:36, "wdhagemeyer" <wdhagemeyer@ <mailto:wdhagemeyer%40gmail.com> > wrote:

I would like any input on a new battery plan for the A54 I have just started a solar program for a cabin and I have been advised that 6 volt 200 ah Trojans are the way to go for this off grid mountain cabin. The vendor is telling me these are low maintenance and will withstand even -30F temps. It would seem that this might be a good choice for the boat as well? I do not recall the size of the 12V batteries. I searched for a file or link to other posts that would also cover all aspects of the boats electrical system. I would appreciate any suggestions.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]









Re: [Amel] Engine room fans 220V Fan above Onan.

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Just added some pictures to: http://nikimat.com/engine_room_fans.html

John, let me know if this is ok to mention your name.

Sincerely, Alexandre


--------------------------------------------

On Thu, 8/22/13, Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@svbebe.com> wrote:

Subject: [Amel] Engine room fans 220V Fan above Onan.
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, August 22, 2013, 8:19 AM
















 









John,



I want to thank you for pointing out the 2 mfd capacitor on
the 220V exhaust fan. I had a feeling this exhaust fan was
turning slower, so I check the cap and yes it was out of
spec. I replaced it with the exact capacitor which is used
on the Climma Fan Motor. I had some spares.



And yes, the fan is blowing better now.



Photo at Photo Albums > Onan MDKVA - OR, link to it here:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1489622282/pic/793800192/view?picmode=&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc



Hope this helps anyone with a slowing exhaust fan.



Bill

BeBe, SM2k, #387

Turkey, having the solar arch installed by Emek Marine



--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com,
"Anne and John Hollamby " <annejohnholl@...>
wrote:

>

> Hello Alexandre, The first company I went to could not
do it, the second was a big commercial galvaniser used by
manufacturers of all sizes of iron goods and so their hot
dip tank must have been huge length and depthwise. If I was
unable to find such a company I think that I would wait
until I could or buy a new chain. I mentioned in several
previous posts that we have bolted some zinc anodes on to
the chain next to the anchor and this may be why the
galvanising is long lasting.

> I too would like to know where your photos of the
engine room fans are located . I have found the fuse and
also a 2 mfd capacitor beside it and wonder whether that
capacitor is partly defective thus causing the fan to run
slowly. Certainly my engine room gets very hot when both
engines are running. I am procrastinating over replacing the
capacitor as it is in a hard place to get at and am not sure
that the fan is not running at it’s full speed.

>

> Best wishes, Anne and John,
Bali Hai, SM 319, Licata

>

>

>

> From: Alexandre Uster von Baar

> Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2013 1:50 AM

> To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com


> Subject: RE: [Amel] Chain too long to be
regalvanized...

>

>

> Haven't done anything yet.

> I thought I could have it sandblasted, then do a cold
galvanized spay, then paint it.

> I am open to suggestion!

> Sincerely, Alexandre

>

> --------------------------------------------

> On Tue, 8/20/13, Sailorman
<mailto:kimberlite%40optonline.net> wrote:

>

> Subject: RE: [Amel] Chain too long to be
regalvanized...

> To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com

> Date: Tuesday, August 20, 2013, 5:42 PM

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

> What did you do with the spade anchor?

>

>

>

> Fair Winds

>

>

>

> Eric

>

>

>

> Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

>

>

>

> _____

>

>

>

> From: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com

>

> [mailto:mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com]

> On Behalf Of Alexandre Uster von

>

> Baar

>

> Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2013 6:47 AM

>

> To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com

>

> Subject: Re: [Amel] Chain too long to be
regalvanized...

>

>

>

> Good morning Anne and John,

>

>

>

> One of my anchor (Spade) has a lot of rust and was
told

> twice it needs to be

>

> regalvanized, since the galvanizing company have a
minimum

> order/weight, I

>

> thought I would bring everything... The first company

> couldn't do the chain,

>

> becausethey didn't had the basket to
"centrifuge

> the chain. The second

>

> company had the basket, but as I mentionned too small.


>

>

>

> Alexandre

>

>

>

> --------------------------------------------

>

> On Tue, 8/20/13, Anne and John Hollamby
<mailto:annejohnholl%40gmail.com

>

> <mailto:annejohnholl%40gmail.com> > wrote:

>

>

>

> Subject: Re: [Amel] Chain too long to be
regalvanized...

>

> To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com

>

> <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

>

> Date: Tuesday, August 20, 2013, 3:46 AM

>

>

>

> Hello Alex, Why did you think it needed

>

> regalvanising and why did they think you were wrong?

>

>

>

> We had our 80 mtr chain hot dip galvanised in Spain
about

>

> four years ago and it is still perfect but only used
for

> 2/3

>

> months of the year. To do it they did not have a tank
81

>

> metres deep so they made a number of hooks out of
strong

>

> wire and looped the chain so that was shorter than the

> tank.

>

> It was very hot when it came out!

>

>

>

> Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM319, Licata

>

>

>

> From: Alex

>

>

>

> Sent: Monday, August 19, 2013 10:25 PM

>

>

>

> To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com

>

> <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

>

>

>

> Subject: [Amel] Chain too long to be regalvanized...

>

>

>

> Thought I would share my experience.

>

>

>

> So yesterday, spend the whole day removing my 2 anchors
and

>

> 2 chains, bringing my ski boat under, etc.

>

>

>

> The longest one at 90 meter (300 ft) which weight 200
kg /

>

> 450 LBS. So was prety physical...

>

>

>

> Early this morning arrived at K T Galvanizing (in
Katy,

> near

>

> Houston, so about 1.5 hours from the Marina) and they
told

>

> me my chain was too long for their equipment!!!

>

>

>

> But good news, they said I don't need to
regalvanized

>

> the chain.

>

>

>

> They said easily 10 more years.

>

>

>

> Alexandre

>

>

>

> SM2K #289 NIKIMAT

>

>

>

> Seabrook, Texas, USA

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

> _____

>

>

>

> I am using the Free version of SPAMfighter <http://www.spamfighter.com/len>

>

> .

>

> SPAMfighter has removed 1887 of my spam emails to
date.

>

>

>

> Do you have a slow PC? <http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen>

>

> Try a free scan!

>

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>


Re: [Amel] Engine room fans 220V Fan above Onan.

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Mine was out of range as well.
Just changed it, but will start the genset next week.
I am prety sure it will be the same result as Bill!


--------------------------------------------

On Thu, 8/22/13, Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@svbebe.com> wrote:

Subject: [Amel] Engine room fans 220V Fan above Onan.
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, August 22, 2013, 8:19 AM
















 









John,



I want to thank you for pointing out the 2 mfd capacitor on
the 220V exhaust fan. I had a feeling this exhaust fan was
turning slower, so I check the cap and yes it was out of
spec. I replaced it with the exact capacitor which is used
on the Climma Fan Motor. I had some spares.



And yes, the fan is blowing better now.



Photo at Photo Albums > Onan MDKVA - OR, link to it here:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1489622282/pic/793800192/view?picmode=&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc



Hope this helps anyone with a slowing exhaust fan.



Bill

BeBe, SM2k, #387

Turkey, having the solar arch installed by Emek Marine



--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com,
"Anne and John Hollamby " <annejohnholl@...>
wrote:

>

> Hello Alexandre, The first company I went to could not
do it, the second was a big commercial galvaniser used by
manufacturers of all sizes of iron goods and so their hot
dip tank must have been huge length and depthwise. If I was
unable to find such a company I think that I would wait
until I could or buy a new chain. I mentioned in several
previous posts that we have bolted some zinc anodes on to
the chain next to the anchor and this may be why the
galvanising is long lasting.

> I too would like to know where your photos of the
engine room fans are located . I have found the fuse and
also a 2 mfd capacitor beside it and wonder whether that
capacitor is partly defective thus causing the fan to run
slowly. Certainly my engine room gets very hot when both
engines are running. I am procrastinating over replacing the
capacitor as it is in a hard place to get at and am not sure
that the fan is not running at it’s full speed.

>

> Best wishes, Anne and John,
Bali Hai, SM 319, Licata

>

>

>

> From: Alexandre Uster von Baar

> Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2013 1:50 AM

> To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com


> Subject: RE: [Amel] Chain too long to be
regalvanized...

>

>

> Haven't done anything yet.

> I thought I could have it sandblasted, then do a cold
galvanized spay, then paint it.

> I am open to suggestion!

> Sincerely, Alexandre

>

> --------------------------------------------

> On Tue, 8/20/13, Sailorman
<mailto:kimberlite%40optonline.net> wrote:

>

> Subject: RE: [Amel] Chain too long to be
regalvanized...

> To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com

> Date: Tuesday, August 20, 2013, 5:42 PM

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

> What did you do with the spade anchor?

>

>

>

> Fair Winds

>

>

>

> Eric

>

>

>

> Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

>

>

>

> _____

>

>

>

> From: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com

>

> [mailto:mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com]

> On Behalf Of Alexandre Uster von

>

> Baar

>

> Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2013 6:47 AM

>

> To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com

>

> Subject: Re: [Amel] Chain too long to be
regalvanized...

>

>

>

> Good morning Anne and John,

>

>

>

> One of my anchor (Spade) has a lot of rust and was
told

> twice it needs to be

>

> regalvanized, since the galvanizing company have a
minimum

> order/weight, I

>

> thought I would bring everything... The first company

> couldn't do the chain,

>

> becausethey didn't had the basket to
"centrifuge

> the chain. The second

>

> company had the basket, but as I mentionned too small.


>

>

>

> Alexandre

>

>

>

> --------------------------------------------

>

> On Tue, 8/20/13, Anne and John Hollamby
<mailto:annejohnholl%40gmail.com

>

> <mailto:annejohnholl%40gmail.com> > wrote:

>

>

>

> Subject: Re: [Amel] Chain too long to be
regalvanized...

>

> To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com

>

> <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

>

> Date: Tuesday, August 20, 2013, 3:46 AM

>

>

>

> Hello Alex, Why did you think it needed

>

> regalvanising and why did they think you were wrong?

>

>

>

> We had our 80 mtr chain hot dip galvanised in Spain
about

>

> four years ago and it is still perfect but only used
for

> 2/3

>

> months of the year. To do it they did not have a tank
81

>

> metres deep so they made a number of hooks out of
strong

>

> wire and looped the chain so that was shorter than the

> tank.

>

> It was very hot when it came out!

>

>

>

> Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM319, Licata

>

>

>

> From: Alex

>

>

>

> Sent: Monday, August 19, 2013 10:25 PM

>

>

>

> To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com

>

> <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

>

>

>

> Subject: [Amel] Chain too long to be regalvanized...

>

>

>

> Thought I would share my experience.

>

>

>

> So yesterday, spend the whole day removing my 2 anchors
and

>

> 2 chains, bringing my ski boat under, etc.

>

>

>

> The longest one at 90 meter (300 ft) which weight 200
kg /

>

> 450 LBS. So was prety physical...

>

>

>

> Early this morning arrived at K T Galvanizing (in
Katy,

> near

>

> Houston, so about 1.5 hours from the Marina) and they
told

>

> me my chain was too long for their equipment!!!

>

>

>

> But good news, they said I don't need to
regalvanized

>

> the chain.

>

>

>

> They said easily 10 more years.

>

>

>

> Alexandre

>

>

>

> SM2K #289 NIKIMAT

>

>

>

> Seabrook, Texas, USA

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

> _____

>

>

>

> I am using the Free version of SPAMfighter <http://www.spamfighter.com/len>

>

> .

>

> SPAMfighter has removed 1887 of my spam emails to
date.

>

>

>

> Do you have a slow PC? <http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen>

>

> Try a free scan!

>

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>


Re: [Amel] Re: Glue for vinyl headlining

Amel Salvagny
 

I have with great success used a glue named Eurocol 322


It is a kind of a water-based rubber glue that is very easy to apply. You need only to apply on one side, wait for 10-20 minutes and then press together.


I have re-glued most of my Santorin by now and nothing has fallen off yet. The glue is holding as should and I can highly recommend this product.


Best regards

Lars

Salvagny, Santorin #79

Currently lying in Copenhagen, Denmark




Fra: Fisher, Thomas W.
Sendt: ‎mandag‎, ‎12‎. ‎august‎ ‎2013 ‎14‎:‎19
Til: 'amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com'





Hi Phil,

I have run into the same problem! Very frustrating indeed!!! Could you please be more specific as to which sikaflex product you used. There are a great number of them so the exact brand number you used successfully would be a great help.

Thanks!!

Tom Fisher
"Sheila" Sharki #142
Kingston, Ontario, Canada

Tom Fisher RRT
Research Coordinator
Asthma Research Unit,
Queen's University
102 Stuart St.
Kingston,ON., K7L 2V6
613-549-6666 ext 2798
P Please consider the environment before printing this e-mail

________________________________
From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com [mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of phil.berghmans
Sent: Sunday, August 11, 2013 03:26
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Re: Glue for vinyl headlining

Hello,

We have redone our headlining four years ago on my santorin 94.Took off the old vinyl cleaned it properly with brush and vacume cleaner.Started with a 3m spray kind of glue they use for carpets and stuff.Was very expensive and fell off after one month in the heat of the med ans canaries.Redone the whole thing with a cheap polyurethane sikaflex . One applieing with the gun the other spreading the stuff pieces of half a meter no more .Then reglueing the vinyl and hold/support for couple off minutes and done! You get more handy in it ass you go along.Now after three years in the tropics (cabo verde,carib) everything is still ok .Cheap and good solution.Iff you want more info .Send me a message.

Kind regards

phil

miles ahead
--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>, "ullaroo" <roo@...> wrote:




Hello,

We are in process of replacing the headliner in our 35 year old Euros. After consultation with our foam backed vinyl supplier Hawke House we also found the 3M 80 neoprene based spray glue the closest match to the glue they have successfully used in England. We ended up using the 3M 80 spray on foam backed vinyl and 3M 1300L brushed on fiberglass. Up to now we have finished the fore cabin and result looks satisfactory. One catch is that both these glues are pretty fast drying so you have to work fast especially with larger surfaces and in higher temperatures. Truth will come out in few years.

Regards,
Roo & Ullar on Euros41 #250

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>, "jjjk12s" <jjjk12s@> wrote:

There were some posts recently about spray adhesive for fixing vinyl headlining. Hopefully the following links are useful for those with headlining problems and trying to find the right glue.

Although some different ones may work, choosing the best one is not easy (some shops seem to just recommend what they have in stock as the perfect one).

I have previously used 3M General Trim Adhesive 08088 (was recommended) but it needs redoing in a few areas after a very hot summer. This adhesive is not listed on the brochure link below, I think due to using different marketing for auto and industrial markets. That adhesive seems to have worked fine on Naugasoft but not as well on a different brand of vinyl (maybe different types of plasticisers?) Another 3M auto adhesive is Super Trim Adhesive 08090 which is promoted as having resistance to plasticisers. This one sounds the same as 3M 90 High Strength.

According to the 3M links below Rubber and Vinyl 80 looks best. It has better heat resistance when the deck gets hot compared to High Strength Adhesive.

John, Maramu #91

Link for brochure showing different 3M spray adhesives

http://solutions.3m.com.au/3MContentRetrievalAPI/BlobServlet?lmd=1266458338000&locale=en_AU&assetType=MMM_Image&assetId=1258562304068&blobAttribute=ImageFile

Link for 3M spray adhesive 80

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Adhesives/Tapes/Products/~/3M-Rubber-And-Vinyl-80-Spray-Adhesive-Yellow-24-fl-oz-Aerosol-Net-weight-19-oz-6-cans-per-case?N=4294933057+5000130&Nr=AND%28hrcy_id%3AN23ZLBTF6Hgs_Z6P37PTRPV_N2RL3FHWVK_GPD0K8BC31gv%29&rt=d

Link for 3M Super Trim Adhesive brochure

http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawebserver?mwsId=SSSSSufSevTsZxtUnxm9mY_ZevUqevTSevTSevTSeSSSSSS--&fn=STA08090_Instruc_Feature.pdf&cshift_ck=null&client_id=752nw09202


Re: [Amel] Solar panels for Amel Super Maramu 53

karkauai
 

Hi, Bill,
I don't see any lines for davits.  Is your arch a dinghy davit as well?  If it's not, why didn't you add that capability?  I would like to have davits for most island hopping and anchoring out, but would tie the dink down on the deck for passages.  I was thinking I'd like an arch similar to yours that could be used for both solar panels and davits.  The extra weight aft would certainly make her even more stern-low in the water.
Thanks,
Kent
SM 243 Kristy
Brunswick, GA USA




________________________________
From: Peter Forbes <ppsforbes@gmail.com>
To: "amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 22, 2013 1:13 PM
Subject: Re: [Amel] Solar panels for Amel Super Maramu 53



 
Bill,

Your arch looks terrific - good investment I think.

I hope you will still be there on 5th Sept when I'm back in Goçek.

Peter

Peter Forbes

07836 209730
ppsforbes@gmail.com

On 22 Aug 2013, at 14:40, "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@svbebe.com> wrote:

I just posted photos of the Emek Marine solar arch installation which is about 90% complete. 3 X 140 Kyocera panels.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1515064489/pic/102870028/view?picmode=&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Gocek, Turkey

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@...> wrote:

Stefano,

No drawings, just a photograph. The unique design was made by Emek Marine in Turkey. Possibly Emek will sell you enough information to duplicate it, but since the design is unique, I doubt that they will.

Contact: cagdas"at"emekmarin.com

Bill
BeBe


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Stefano Biffi <cptbiffi@> wrote:

Hi and tks for the suggestion. Do you already have drawings for a SM installation. I'm looking also to have the airgen at the same location. Any suggestion closer to me today (italy)?

Stefano on board N'EVEREST
SM185 in Bocca di Magra

Il giorno 17/ago/2013, alle ore 11:41, "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@> ha scritto:

Tony,

The best looking design that I have seen is made in Gocek, Turkey. It is a multi-functional solar arch. See the photo at: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1515064489/pic/2126077749/view?picmode=large&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc

If you are in the Med, I suggest you get one in Turkey.

Also, Peter Forbes s/v Carango just had one of these installed and we are getting a version of it for BeBe (SM).

Hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Gocek, Turkey

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Tony Robinson <tonywrobinson51@> wrote:

Hi everyone.

Has anybody fitted solar panels to their Amel 54 ? I would welcome any thoughts/recommendations. I had two 50W panels on my last boat - an OVNI 435 - and I thought they were the best bit of kit on the boat. The batteries were kept topped up throughout the winter and with 4/5 amps being delivered for most of the day in summer they provided a useful supplement to the other means of charging i.e. the engine.

Tony Robinson - Catriona R Amel 54Â no.102



________________________________
From: Duncan <wdhagemeyer@>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 7, 2013 9:44 PM
Subject: RE: [Amel] Battery Plan for Amel 54



Â
Hi Richard,

Mine is 009. And has a 12 battery/12V bank.

Do you have any suggestions regarding inverters, or smart control panels? I am learning from my cabin experience that there are many types.

Duncan

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com [mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Richard03801
Sent: Wednesday, August 07, 2013 1:55 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel] Battry Plan for Amel 54

Battery size for the later boats is size 31.

Regards
Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

On Aug 7, 2013, at 13:36, "wdhagemeyer" <wdhagemeyer@ <mailto:wdhagemeyer%40gmail.com> > wrote:

I would like any input on a new battery plan for the A54 I have just started a solar program for a cabin and I have been advised that 6 volt 200 ah Trojans are the way to go for this off grid mountain cabin. The vendor is telling me these are low maintenance and will withstand even -30F temps. It would seem that this might be a good choice for the boat as well? I do not recall the size of the 12V batteries. I searched for a file or link to other posts that would also cover all aspects of the boats electrical system. I would appreciate any suggestions.








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Solar panels for Amel Super Maramu 53

Peter Forbes
 

Bill,

Your arch looks terrific - good investment I think.

I hope you will still be there on 5th Sept when I'm back in Goçek.

Peter

Peter Forbes

07836 209730
ppsforbes@gmail.com

On 22 Aug 2013, at 14:40, "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@svbebe.com> wrote:

I just posted photos of the Emek Marine solar arch installation which is about 90% complete. 3 X 140 Kyocera panels.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1515064489/pic/102870028/view?picmode=&;mode=tn&amp;order=ordinal&amp;start=1&amp;count=20&amp;dir=asc

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Gocek, Turkey

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@...> wrote:

Stefano,

No drawings, just a photograph. The unique design was made by Emek Marine in Turkey. Possibly Emek will sell you enough information to duplicate it, but since the design is unique, I doubt that they will.

Contact: cagdas"at"emekmarin.com

Bill
BeBe


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Stefano Biffi <cptbiffi@> wrote:

Hi and tks for the suggestion. Do you already have drawings for a SM installation. I'm looking also to have the airgen at the same location. Any suggestion closer to me today (italy)?

Stefano on board N'EVEREST
SM185 in Bocca di Magra

Il giorno 17/ago/2013, alle ore 11:41, "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@> ha scritto:

Tony,

The best looking design that I have seen is made in Gocek, Turkey. It is a multi-functional solar arch. See the photo at: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1515064489/pic/2126077749/view?picmode=large&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc

If you are in the Med, I suggest you get one in Turkey.

Also, Peter Forbes s/v Carango just had one of these installed and we are getting a version of it for BeBe (SM).

Hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Gocek, Turkey

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Tony Robinson <tonywrobinson51@> wrote:

Hi everyone.

Has anybody fitted solar panels to their Amel 54 ? I would welcome any thoughts/recommendations. I had two 50W panels on my last boat - an OVNI 435 - and I thought they were the best bit of kit on the boat. The batteries were kept topped up throughout the winter and with 4/5 amps being delivered for most of the day in summer they provided a useful supplement to the other means of charging i.e. the engine.

Tony Robinson - Catriona R Amel 54Â no.102



________________________________
From: Duncan <wdhagemeyer@>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 7, 2013 9:44 PM
Subject: RE: [Amel] Battery Plan for Amel 54



Â
Hi Richard,

Mine is 009. And has a 12 battery/12V bank.

Do you have any suggestions regarding inverters, or smart control panels? I am learning from my cabin experience that there are many types.

Duncan

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com [mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Richard03801
Sent: Wednesday, August 07, 2013 1:55 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel] Battry Plan for Amel 54

Battery size for the later boats is size 31.

Regards
Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

On Aug 7, 2013, at 13:36, "wdhagemeyer" <wdhagemeyer@ <mailto:wdhagemeyer%40gmail.com> > wrote:

I would like any input on a new battery plan for the A54 I have just started a solar program for a cabin and I have been advised that 6 volt 200 ah Trojans are the way to go for this off grid mountain cabin. The vendor is telling me these are low maintenance and will withstand even -30F temps. It would seem that this might be a good choice for the boat as well? I do not recall the size of the 12V batteries. I searched for a file or link to other posts that would also cover all aspects of the boats electrical system. I would appreciate any suggestions.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Re: prop rebuild,..

Mike Ondra
 

Gary,

As I recall I used a cobalt drill bit for the hole in the race. Titanium
might also work. Photos are posted in the album "Aletes SM#240" which may
help clarify the process. I was not concerned about sea water, as it seems
everything in the AutoProp is exposed. Maybe I am missing something?

Mike

Aletes SM#240



From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Thursday, August 22, 2013 9:02 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Re: prop rebuild,..





Hi Mike:

I actually tried to drill into the races but couldn't penetrate the hardened
steel at all. My original plan was to tap some screws into the race and use
a slide hammer to pull the races out of their recess. How were you able to
drill those races?

As I try to visualize your process, didn't this then leave a hole through
the base of the race recess open to sea water on the outside of the prop
hub? Perhaps I am not picturing this correctly. Help me to better
understand.

Gary Amel SM # 335 s/v Liahona

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "Mike Ondra" <mdondra@...>
wrote:

The approach that worked well for me to remove the race was to drill and
tap
3/16" threads through the race and hub, insert short 3/16" bolts from
either
end until they touched at the interface, then tightened the inner bolt to
push out the race. Next time no need to drill, just insert the inner bolt
to
push out the race.



Mike SM#242 Aletes


Re: Engine room fans 220V Fan above Onan.

Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Sorry, the link did not work on the 220V Fan photo, but I tested this one and it works: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1489622282/pic/793800192/view?picmode=&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc

Bill
BeBe

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@...> wrote:

John,

I want to thank you for pointing out the 2 mfd capacitor on the 220V exhaust fan. I had a feeling this exhaust fan was turning slower, so I check the cap and yes it was out of spec. I replaced it with the exact capacitor which is used on the Climma Fan Motor. I had some spares.

And yes, the fan is blowing better now.

Photo at Photo Albums > Onan MDKVA - OR, link to it here: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1489622282/pic/793800192/view?picmode=&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc

Hope this helps anyone with a slowing exhaust fan.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Turkey, having the solar arch installed by Emek Marine

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Anne and John Hollamby " <annejohnholl@> wrote:

Hello Alexandre, The first company I went to could not do it, the second was a big commercial galvaniser used by manufacturers of all sizes of iron goods and so their hot dip tank must have been huge length and depthwise. If I was unable to find such a company I think that I would wait until I could or buy a new chain. I mentioned in several previous posts that we have bolted some zinc anodes on to the chain next to the anchor and this may be why the galvanising is long lasting.
I too would like to know where your photos of the engine room fans are located . I have found the fuse and also a 2 mfd capacitor beside it and wonder whether that capacitor is partly defective thus causing the fan to run slowly. Certainly my engine room gets very hot when both engines are running. I am procrastinating over replacing the capacitor as it is in a hard place to get at and am not sure that the fan is not running at it’s full speed.

Best wishes, Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM 319, Licata



From: Alexandre Uster von Baar
Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2013 1:50 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Amel] Chain too long to be regalvanized...


Haven't done anything yet.
I thought I could have it sandblasted, then do a cold galvanized spay, then paint it.
I am open to suggestion!
Sincerely, Alexandre

--------------------------------------------
On Tue, 8/20/13, Sailorman <mailto:kimberlite%40optonline.net> wrote:

Subject: RE: [Amel] Chain too long to be regalvanized...
To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, August 20, 2013, 5:42 PM


























What did you do with the spade anchor?



Fair Winds



Eric



Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite



_____



From: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com

[mailto:mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Alexandre Uster von

Baar

Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2013 6:47 AM

To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com

Subject: Re: [Amel] Chain too long to be regalvanized...



Good morning Anne and John,



One of my anchor (Spade) has a lot of rust and was told
twice it needs to be

regalvanized, since the galvanizing company have a minimum
order/weight, I

thought I would bring everything... The first company
couldn't do the chain,

becausethey didn't had the basket to "centrifuge
the chain. The second

company had the basket, but as I mentionned too small.



Alexandre



--------------------------------------------

On Tue, 8/20/13, Anne and John Hollamby <mailto:annejohnholl%40gmail.com

<mailto:annejohnholl%40gmail.com> > wrote:



Subject: Re: [Amel] Chain too long to be regalvanized...

To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

Date: Tuesday, August 20, 2013, 3:46 AM



Hello Alex, Why did you think it needed

regalvanising and why did they think you were wrong?



We had our 80 mtr chain hot dip galvanised in Spain about

four years ago and it is still perfect but only used for
2/3

months of the year. To do it they did not have a tank 81

metres deep so they made a number of hooks out of strong

wire and looped the chain so that was shorter than the
tank.

It was very hot when it came out!



Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM319, Licata



From: Alex



Sent: Monday, August 19, 2013 10:25 PM



To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>



Subject: [Amel] Chain too long to be regalvanized...



Thought I would share my experience.



So yesterday, spend the whole day removing my 2 anchors and

2 chains, bringing my ski boat under, etc.



The longest one at 90 meter (300 ft) which weight 200 kg /

450 LBS. So was prety physical...



Early this morning arrived at K T Galvanizing (in Katy,
near

Houston, so about 1.5 hours from the Marina) and they told

me my chain was too long for their equipment!!!



But good news, they said I don't need to regalvanized

the chain.



They said easily 10 more years.



Alexandre



SM2K #289 NIKIMAT



Seabrook, Texas, USA



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Re: Solar panels for Amel Super Maramu 53

Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
 

The link for the photos did not work...this will: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1515064489/pic/list

Bill
BeBe

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@...> wrote:

I just posted photos of the Emek Marine solar arch installation which is about 90% complete. 3 X 140 Kyocera panels.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1515064489/pic/102870028/view?picmode=&;mode=tn&amp;order=ordinal&amp;start=1&amp;count=20&amp;dir=asc

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Gocek, Turkey



--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@> wrote:

Stefano,

No drawings, just a photograph. The unique design was made by Emek Marine in Turkey. Possibly Emek will sell you enough information to duplicate it, but since the design is unique, I doubt that they will.

Contact: cagdas"at"emekmarin.com

Bill
BeBe


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Stefano Biffi <cptbiffi@> wrote:

Hi and tks for the suggestion. Do you already have drawings for a SM installation. I'm looking also to have the airgen at the same location. Any suggestion closer to me today (italy)?

Stefano on board N'EVEREST
SM185 in Bocca di Magra

Il giorno 17/ago/2013, alle ore 11:41, "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@> ha scritto:

Tony,

The best looking design that I have seen is made in Gocek, Turkey. It is a multi-functional solar arch. See the photo at: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1515064489/pic/2126077749/view?picmode=large&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc

If you are in the Med, I suggest you get one in Turkey.

Also, Peter Forbes s/v Carango just had one of these installed and we are getting a version of it for BeBe (SM).

Hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Gocek, Turkey

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Tony Robinson <tonywrobinson51@> wrote:

Hi everyone.

Has anybody fitted solar panels to their Amel 54 ? I would welcome any thoughts/recommendations. I had two 50W panels on my last boat - an OVNI 435 - and I thought they were the best bit of kit on the boat. The batteries were kept topped up throughout the winter and with 4/5 amps being delivered for most of the day in summer they provided a useful supplement to the other means of charging i.e. the engine.

Tony Robinson - Catriona R Amel 54Â no.102



________________________________
From: Duncan <wdhagemeyer@>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 7, 2013 9:44 PM
Subject: RE: [Amel] Battery Plan for Amel 54



Â
Hi Richard,

Mine is 009. And has a 12 battery/12V bank.

Do you have any suggestions regarding inverters, or smart control panels? I am learning from my cabin experience that there are many types.

Duncan

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com [mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Richard03801
Sent: Wednesday, August 07, 2013 1:55 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel] Battry Plan for Amel 54

Battery size for the later boats is size 31.

Regards
Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

On Aug 7, 2013, at 13:36, "wdhagemeyer" <wdhagemeyer@ <mailto:wdhagemeyer%40gmail.com> > wrote:

I would like any input on a new battery plan for the A54 I have just started a solar program for a cabin and I have been advised that 6 volt 200 ah Trojans are the way to go for this off grid mountain cabin. The vendor is telling me these are low maintenance and will withstand even -30F temps. It would seem that this might be a good choice for the boat as well? I do not recall the size of the 12V batteries. I searched for a file or link to other posts that would also cover all aspects of the boats electrical system. I would appreciate any suggestions.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Solar panels for Amel Super Maramu 53

Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
 

I just posted photos of the Emek Marine solar arch installation which is about 90% complete. 3 X 140 Kyocera panels.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1515064489/pic/102870028/view?picmode=&;amp;mode=tn&amp;amp;order=ordinal&amp;amp;start=1&amp;amp;count=20&amp;amp;dir=asc

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Gocek, Turkey

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@...> wrote:

Stefano,

No drawings, just a photograph. The unique design was made by Emek Marine in Turkey. Possibly Emek will sell you enough information to duplicate it, but since the design is unique, I doubt that they will.

Contact: cagdas"at"emekmarin.com

Bill
BeBe


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Stefano Biffi <cptbiffi@> wrote:

Hi and tks for the suggestion. Do you already have drawings for a SM installation. I'm looking also to have the airgen at the same location. Any suggestion closer to me today (italy)?

Stefano on board N'EVEREST
SM185 in Bocca di Magra

Il giorno 17/ago/2013, alle ore 11:41, "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@> ha scritto:

Tony,

The best looking design that I have seen is made in Gocek, Turkey. It is a multi-functional solar arch. See the photo at: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1515064489/pic/2126077749/view?picmode=large&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc

If you are in the Med, I suggest you get one in Turkey.

Also, Peter Forbes s/v Carango just had one of these installed and we are getting a version of it for BeBe (SM).

Hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Gocek, Turkey

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Tony Robinson <tonywrobinson51@> wrote:

Hi everyone.

Has anybody fitted solar panels to their Amel 54 ? I would welcome any thoughts/recommendations. I had two 50W panels on my last boat - an OVNI 435 - and I thought they were the best bit of kit on the boat. The batteries were kept topped up throughout the winter and with 4/5 amps being delivered for most of the day in summer they provided a useful supplement to the other means of charging i.e. the engine.

Tony Robinson - Catriona R Amel 54Â no.102



________________________________
From: Duncan <wdhagemeyer@>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 7, 2013 9:44 PM
Subject: RE: [Amel] Battery Plan for Amel 54



Â
Hi Richard,

Mine is 009. And has a 12 battery/12V bank.

Do you have any suggestions regarding inverters, or smart control panels? I am learning from my cabin experience that there are many types.

Duncan

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com [mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Richard03801
Sent: Wednesday, August 07, 2013 1:55 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel] Battry Plan for Amel 54

Battery size for the later boats is size 31.

Regards
Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

On Aug 7, 2013, at 13:36, "wdhagemeyer" <wdhagemeyer@ <mailto:wdhagemeyer%40gmail.com> > wrote:

I would like any input on a new battery plan for the A54 I have just started a solar program for a cabin and I have been advised that 6 volt 200 ah Trojans are the way to go for this off grid mountain cabin. The vendor is telling me these are low maintenance and will withstand even -30F temps. It would seem that this might be a good choice for the boat as well? I do not recall the size of the 12V batteries. I searched for a file or link to other posts that would also cover all aspects of the boats electrical system. I would appreciate any suggestions.








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Re: Turbo desapointment...

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Good morning Gary, thanks for the article and links.
Sincerely, Alexandre

--------------------------------------------

On Wed, 8/21/13, amelliahona <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: [Amel] Re: Turbo desapointment...
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, August 21, 2013, 3:21 PM
















 













Hi Alexander:



Here is a good article that shows the principles involved.



http://proboat.com/attention-to-detail/170-the-vacuum-gauge-tool.html



West Marine has the gauges (although $99 seems steep to me).




http://catalogs.westmarine.com/WebProject.asp?CodeId=7.7.1.25&BookCode=wmm13&pagelabel=597#



You might try Grainger.com All the Racor filter housings I
have seen have a port for the gauge. 1/8th inch pipe thread
as I recall, but double check to make sure.



Gary



--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com,
Alexandre Uster von Baar <uster@...> wrote:

>

> Good morning Gary,

>

> If the Marina was cleaner, I would dive myself, but it
is so dirty...

> Not much clean water in "Clear Lake", but I
think I should make an effort and dive far in the bay.

>

> The propeler was lubed last November. I don't know
about the last time the bearing or blade seals were changed.


>

> I was planning on disassembling it in Nov before my
trip, may be I should do it before.

>

> I recently changed both Engine fuel filter and (single)
Racor fuel filter. I don't think, but don't know if
I have restriction.

> I will check the valve.

> I don't have suction gauge, any recommendation?
Manufacturer? I am not familiar with that... Are they
permanently mount?

>

> Thanks for the compliment in cleaning the turbo... I
wish I could brag about 2800 rpm!!!

>

> I will looked at the "Mouse Milk" you
mentionned!

>

> Thanks again for your email, let me know about these
suction gauge...

> Sincerely, Alexandre

>

>

> --------------------------------------------

> On Wed, 8/21/13, amelliahona <no_reply@yahoogroups.com>
wrote:

>

> Subject: [Amel] Re: Turbo desapointment...

> To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com

> Date: Wednesday, August 21, 2013, 3:10 AM

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>  

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

> Alexander:

>

>

>

> A couple of thoughts:

>

>

>

> Find some clear water, dive on your prop and visually
and

> tactilely verify for yourself that the prop is
bristol

> clean!. I hired a diver once to clean mine due to the
nasty

> water in the marina, and after he said it was clean,
I

> subsequently inspected it myself and found it was
anything

> but clean. I find that even minimal incrustation on
the

> prop takes me at least 30 minutes of scuba/snuba time
to

> clean properly. Heavier growth can easily consume an
hour.

> Use a putty knife and some 3M scotch bright or
equivalent to

> get it completely smooth, including the hub area.

>

>

>

> While you are down there verify that your prop
bearings are

> good. This requires a bit of a fine touch. Just
slowly

> rotate each blade, one at a time, manually and see if
there

> is any binding, gritty feeling, or roughness as they
rotate

> around. This obviously is easier done when hauled out
but

> can be done underwater. What you are looking
(feeling) for

> is any sign that the bearings in the blades are gone.
They

> should be silky smooth as they rotate and should
certainly

> move freely. On that note, when was the last time the
prop

> was lubed, when was the last time the bearings were
changed,

> and when was the last time the blade seals where
changed? A

> prop blade with bad bearings can give strange
vibrations

> while powering.

>

>

>

> I do not allow any pressure washing of my prop when
hauled

> as the high pressure can easily blow past the blade
lip

> seals and water contaminate the bearings. When you
lube

> your prop if you have water exit the vent hole then
you

> should consider disassembling the prop for bearing

> inspection.

>

>

>

> Are you absolutely certain that you don't have a
fuel

> filter (there are two) restriction or fuel line
restriction

> such as a bad fuel tank shut off valve? Verify that
the

> fuel tank shut off valve is properly rigged and fully
open.

> Have you put a suction gauge on your fuel filter to
see if

> the filter is restrictive to flow? Just a couple of
cheap

> and easy things to check.

>

>

>

> Good work on cleaning and verifying the turbo spun
freely.

> There is a product called Mouse Milk (that you can get
from

> AircraftSpruce.com) that we use on the waste gate
actuators

> on aircraft engines to keep them limber. Cheap and
easy.

>

>

>

>

> Sincerely,

>

>

>

> Gary Silver

>

>

>

> This evaluation won't cost you much in time or
money and

>

>

>

>

> --- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com,

> "Alex" <uster@> wrote:

>

> >

>

> > Last week, cleant exhaust elbow, heat exchanger
and

> turbo, I was able to make it spin using a compressed
air

> bottle. http://nikimat.com/volvo_tmd22_turbo.html

>

> >

>

> > Had a diver scrubbing the prop, said it felt
good.

>

> >

>

> > At the dock reach 2500 rpm (did not try higher).


>

> >

>

> > Saturday in the bay, could not exceed 2200 rpm...
Very

> desapointed.

>

> > I could feel some vibrations or wabbling. Any
idea?

>

> > Could that be the prop not unfolding totally?

>

> >

>

> >

>

> > Thanks in advance, sincerely, Alexandre

>

> > SM2K #289 NIKIMAT

>

> > Seabrook, Texas, USA

>

> >

>


Engine room fans 220V Fan above Onan.

Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
 

John,

I want to thank you for pointing out the 2 mfd capacitor on the 220V exhaust fan. I had a feeling this exhaust fan was turning slower, so I check the cap and yes it was out of spec. I replaced it with the exact capacitor which is used on the Climma Fan Motor. I had some spares.

And yes, the fan is blowing better now.

Photo at Photo Albums > Onan MDKVA - OR, link to it here: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1489622282/pic/793800192/view?picmode=&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc

Hope this helps anyone with a slowing exhaust fan.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Turkey, having the solar arch installed by Emek Marine

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Anne and John Hollamby " <annejohnholl@...> wrote:

Hello Alexandre, The first company I went to could not do it, the second was a big commercial galvaniser used by manufacturers of all sizes of iron goods and so their hot dip tank must have been huge length and depthwise. If I was unable to find such a company I think that I would wait until I could or buy a new chain. I mentioned in several previous posts that we have bolted some zinc anodes on to the chain next to the anchor and this may be why the galvanising is long lasting.
I too would like to know where your photos of the engine room fans are located . I have found the fuse and also a 2 mfd capacitor beside it and wonder whether that capacitor is partly defective thus causing the fan to run slowly. Certainly my engine room gets very hot when both engines are running. I am procrastinating over replacing the capacitor as it is in a hard place to get at and am not sure that the fan is not running at it’s full speed.

Best wishes, Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM 319, Licata



From: Alexandre Uster von Baar
Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2013 1:50 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Amel] Chain too long to be regalvanized...


Haven't done anything yet.
I thought I could have it sandblasted, then do a cold galvanized spay, then paint it.
I am open to suggestion!
Sincerely, Alexandre

--------------------------------------------
On Tue, 8/20/13, Sailorman <mailto:kimberlite%40optonline.net> wrote:

Subject: RE: [Amel] Chain too long to be regalvanized...
To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, August 20, 2013, 5:42 PM


























What did you do with the spade anchor?



Fair Winds



Eric



Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite



_____



From: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com

[mailto:mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Alexandre Uster von

Baar

Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2013 6:47 AM

To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com

Subject: Re: [Amel] Chain too long to be regalvanized...



Good morning Anne and John,



One of my anchor (Spade) has a lot of rust and was told
twice it needs to be

regalvanized, since the galvanizing company have a minimum
order/weight, I

thought I would bring everything... The first company
couldn't do the chain,

becausethey didn't had the basket to "centrifuge
the chain. The second

company had the basket, but as I mentionned too small.



Alexandre



--------------------------------------------

On Tue, 8/20/13, Anne and John Hollamby <mailto:annejohnholl%40gmail.com

<mailto:annejohnholl%40gmail.com> > wrote:



Subject: Re: [Amel] Chain too long to be regalvanized...

To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

Date: Tuesday, August 20, 2013, 3:46 AM



Hello Alex, Why did you think it needed

regalvanising and why did they think you were wrong?



We had our 80 mtr chain hot dip galvanised in Spain about

four years ago and it is still perfect but only used for
2/3

months of the year. To do it they did not have a tank 81

metres deep so they made a number of hooks out of strong

wire and looped the chain so that was shorter than the
tank.

It was very hot when it came out!



Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM319, Licata



From: Alex



Sent: Monday, August 19, 2013 10:25 PM



To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>



Subject: [Amel] Chain too long to be regalvanized...



Thought I would share my experience.



So yesterday, spend the whole day removing my 2 anchors and

2 chains, bringing my ski boat under, etc.



The longest one at 90 meter (300 ft) which weight 200 kg /

450 LBS. So was prety physical...



Early this morning arrived at K T Galvanizing (in Katy,
near

Houston, so about 1.5 hours from the Marina) and they told

me my chain was too long for their equipment!!!



But good news, they said I don't need to regalvanized

the chain.



They said easily 10 more years.



Alexandre



SM2K #289 NIKIMAT



Seabrook, Texas, USA



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



_____



I am using the Free version of SPAMfighter <http://www.spamfighter.com/len>

.

SPAMfighter has removed 1887 of my spam emails to date.



Do you have a slow PC? <http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen>

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[Amel] Re: prop rebuild,..

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Mike:

I actually tried to drill into the races but couldn't penetrate the hardened steel at all. My original plan was to tap some screws into the race and use a slide hammer to pull the races out of their recess. How were you able to drill those races?

As I try to visualize your process, didn't this then leave a hole through the base of the race recess open to sea water on the outside of the prop hub? Perhaps I am not picturing this correctly. Help me to better understand.

Gary Amel SM # 335 s/v Liahona

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Mike Ondra" <mdondra@...> wrote:

The approach that worked well for me to remove the race was to drill and tap
3/16" threads through the race and hub, insert short 3/16" bolts from either
end until they touched at the interface, then tightened the inner bolt to
push out the race. Next time no need to drill, just insert the inner bolt to
push out the race.



Mike SM#242 Aletes


Re: [Amel] Autoprop recall --prop numbers

eric freedman
 

The numbers are one ach blade.

If you deal with ab marine in the UA they are wonderful.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite



Here was his note for the rebuild kit.



Dear Sir,

I see that you have the pricing for all of the parts. Yours would be the H6
TS system which shows a total of US$840.78. I will give you a 10% discount
and so it will be $756.70.

The 3 tool are ... Retaining Cap spanner @ $77.50 ... Tab Screw Spanner @
$97.00 ... Nut Spanner @ $188.50 = $363.00

If you like i can sell them to you and then "buy then back" when you are
back in the USA minus a "usage fee", say 10%. or you can keep them.

Everything is available to ship today or tomorrow.

Just need the ship to address and CC details.




Regards, Steve Armitage

AB Marine, Inc

747 Aquidneck Ave

Middletown, RI 02842

sales@ab-marine.com

401-847-7960



_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Alexandre Uster von
Baar
Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2013 8:57 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel] Autoprop recall --prop numbers





Hello Eric,

I ask the diver to let me know the number, he couldn't find it.

BUT, that now you tell me what to look for, so I see on the previous owner's
note and finf my number is: AP3281 (Left Hand turn) - AND it has been recall
and rebuilt in December 2002!!! Thanks so much for this little piece of
information that answer a large question!!!

Now I can order the rebuilt kits from the place Bill mentionned and so on!!!


Also from "islandbwoy4434" (Dena and ?) it definitely confirms Kent's (SM
#243) information.

Thank you so much every one on the forum!

Alexandre

--------------------------------------------

On Wed, 8/21/13, Sailorman <kimberlite@optonline.net
<mailto:kimberlite%40optonline.net> > wrote:

Subject: [Amel] Autoprop recall --prop numbers
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Date: Wednesday, August 21, 2013, 3:55 PM


























Alexandre,



I also have a h6 prop it is number 5164.



If your prop is between number ap2902 and ap5299, it should
have been

recalled and rebuilt for free by autoprop.



Fair Winds



Eric



Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite



_____



From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of Alexandre Uster von

Baar

Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2013 4:15 PM

To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

Subject: Re: [Amel] prop rebuild,..



Hello Eric,



I tested all the Air conditionning Capacitor (and changed
some) a few months

ago, so am familiar with this process.



I just check the bill from Amel (last November), they
greased the prop. I am

sure if they had seen it needed new bearing they would have
mentionned

something... Which prop do you have? I have the Auto Prop
H6.



Sincerely, Alexandre



--------------------------------------------

On Wed, 8/21/13, Sailorman <kimberlite@optonline.net
<mailto:kimberlite%40optonline.net>

<mailto:kimberlite%40optonline.net> > wrote:



Subject: [Amel] prop rebuild,..

To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

Date: Wednesday, August 21, 2013, 2:42 PM



The prop rebuild is a time consuming project and is

best done on a workbench



with a vise.



I bought the parts from AB marine for about $900- they

rented me the tools



(cost $350- for 50 dollars-upon return of the tools) I
think

it will take



one person a day plus to do it.



The hardest part is to remove the ball bearing race as it
is

held in by



grease and the tolerances are very tight. It takes a lot of

time and solvent



to remove them.



Fair Winds



Eric



Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite



_____



From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>



[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ]

On Behalf Of Alexandre Uster von



Baar



Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2013 10:44 AM



To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>



Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Turbo desapointment...



Good morning Gary,



If the Marina was cleaner, I would dive myself, but it is
so

dirty...



Not much clean water in "Clear Lake", but I think

I should make an effort



and dive far in the bay.



The propeler was lubed last November. I don't know
about

the last time the



bearing or blade seals were changed.



I was planning on disassembling it in Nov before my trip,

may be I should do



it before.



I recently changed both Engine fuel filter and (single)

Racor fuel filter. I



don't think, but don't know if I have restriction.



I will check the valve.



I don't have suction gauge, any recommendation?

Manufacturer? I am not



familiar with that... Are they permanently mount?



Thanks for the compliment in cleaning the turbo... I wish I

could brag about



2800 rpm!!!



I will looked at the "Mouse Milk" you mentionned!



Thanks again for your email, let me know about these
suction

gauge...



Sincerely, Alexandre



--------------------------------------------



On Wed, 8/21/13, amelliahona <no_reply@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:no_reply%40yahoogroups.com>

<mailto:no_reply%40yahoogroups.com>



<mailto:no_reply%40yahoogroups.com> > wrote:



Subject: [Amel] Re: Turbo desapointment...



To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>



<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>



Date: Wednesday, August 21, 2013, 3:10 AM



Alexander:



A couple of thoughts:



Find some clear water, dive on your prop and visually and



tactilely verify for yourself that the prop is bristol



clean!. I hired a diver once to clean mine due to the nasty



water in the marina, and after he said it was clean, I



subsequently inspected it myself and found it was anything



but clean. I find that even minimal incrustation on the



prop takes me at least 30 minutes of scuba/snuba time to



clean properly. Heavier growth can easily consume an hour.



Use a putty knife and some 3M scotch bright or equivalent

to



get it completely smooth, including the hub area.



While you are down there verify that your prop bearings are



good. This requires a bit of a fine touch. Just slowly



rotate each blade, one at a time, manually and see if there



is any binding, gritty feeling, or roughness as they rotate



around. This obviously is easier done when hauled out but



can be done underwater. What you are looking (feeling) for



is any sign that the bearings in the blades are gone. They



should be silky smooth as they rotate and should certainly



move freely. On that note, when was the last time the prop



was lubed, when was the last time the bearings were

changed,



and when was the last time the blade seals where changed? A



prop blade with bad bearings can give strange vibrations



while powering.



I do not allow any pressure washing of my prop when hauled



as the high pressure can easily blow past the blade lip



seals and water contaminate the bearings. When you lube



your prop if you have water exit the vent hole then you



should consider disassembling the prop for bearing



inspection.



Are you absolutely certain that you don't have a fuel



filter (there are two) restriction or fuel line restriction



such as a bad fuel tank shut off valve? Verify that the



fuel tank shut off valve is properly rigged and fully open.



Have you put a suction gauge on your fuel filter to see if



the filter is restrictive to flow? Just a couple of cheap



and easy things to check.



Good work on cleaning and verifying the turbo spun freely.



There is a product called Mouse Milk (that you can get from



AircraftSpruce.com) that we use on the waste gate actuators



on aircraft engines to keep them limber. Cheap and easy.



Sincerely,



Gary Silver



This evaluation won't cost you much in time or money

and



--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>



<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ,



"Alex" <uster@...> wrote:





Last week, cleant exhaust elbow, heat exchanger and


turbo, I was able to make it spin using a compressed air



bottle. http://nikimat.com/volvo_tmd22_turbo.html





Had a diver scrubbing the prop, said it felt good.




At the dock reach 2500 rpm (did not try higher).




Saturday in the bay, could not exceed 2200 rpm... Very


desapointed.



I could feel some vibrations or wabbling. Any idea?


Could that be the prop not unfolding totally?






Thanks in advance, sincerely, Alexandre


SM2K #289 NIKIMAT


Seabrook, Texas, USA




_____



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.



SPAMfighter has removed 1893 of my spam emails to date.



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Try a free scan!


Re: [Amel] Re: prop rebuild,..

Mike Ondra
 

The approach that worked well for me to remove the race was to drill and tap
3/16" threads through the race and hub, insert short 3/16" bolts from either
end until they touched at the interface, then tightened the inner bolt to
push out the race. Next time no need to drill, just insert the inner bolt to
push out the race.



Mike SM#242 Aletes



From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2013 4:29 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Re: prop rebuild,..





I concur that the rebuild of all three blades is at least a full day
project. The spare parts from the manufacturer are indeed very pricy.

I found the key to getting the races out was to use a Dremmel tool cut off
wheel (about 3/4 inch diameter) to grind a recess in the hardened steel race
being careful not to slip and grind into the race recess etc. The recess
(there is a photo I posted on servicing the AutoProp) should be deep enough
to accept a punch or chisel. Then use a punch at and angle to start the race
rotating in its recess. Add your best penetrating oil (I use Mouse Milk),
and in about 30 minutes I was able to extract the race each. The first one I
did, without the rotation trick took me about 6 hours with penetrating oil,
fine emmory cloth etc. The rotation trick was a big improvement.

Gary

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , Sailorman <kimberlite@...>
wrote:

The prop rebuild is a time consuming project and is best done on a
workbench
with a vise.

I bought the parts from AB marine for about $900- they rented me the tools
(cost $350- for 50 dollars-upon return of the tools) I think it will take
one person a day plus to do it.

The hardest part is to remove the ball bearing race as it is held in by
grease and the tolerances are very tight. It takes a lot of time and
solvent
to remove them.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Alexandre Uster
von
Baar
Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2013 10:44 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Turbo desapointment...





Good morning Gary,

If the Marina was cleaner, I would dive myself, but it is so dirty...
Not much clean water in "Clear Lake", but I think I should make an effort
and dive far in the bay.

The propeler was lubed last November. I don't know about the last time the
bearing or blade seals were changed.

I was planning on disassembling it in Nov before my trip, may be I should
do
it before.

I recently changed both Engine fuel filter and (single) Racor fuel filter.
I
don't think, but don't know if I have restriction.
I will check the valve.
I don't have suction gauge, any recommendation? Manufacturer? I am not
familiar with that... Are they permanently mount?

Thanks for the compliment in cleaning the turbo... I wish I could brag
about
2800 rpm!!!

I will looked at the "Mouse Milk" you mentionned!

Thanks again for your email, let me know about these suction gauge...
Sincerely, Alexandre

--------------------------------------------
On Wed, 8/21/13, amelliahona <no_reply@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:no_reply%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:no_reply%40yahoogroups.com> > wrote:

Subject: [Amel] Re: Turbo desapointment...
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Date: Wednesday, August 21, 2013, 3:10 AM






























Alexander:



A couple of thoughts:



Find some clear water, dive on your prop and visually and
tactilely verify for yourself that the prop is bristol
clean!. I hired a diver once to clean mine due to the nasty
water in the marina, and after he said it was clean, I
subsequently inspected it myself and found it was anything
but clean. I find that even minimal incrustation on the
prop takes me at least 30 minutes of scuba/snuba time to
clean properly. Heavier growth can easily consume an hour.
Use a putty knife and some 3M scotch bright or equivalent to
get it completely smooth, including the hub area.



While you are down there verify that your prop bearings are
good. This requires a bit of a fine touch. Just slowly
rotate each blade, one at a time, manually and see if there
is any binding, gritty feeling, or roughness as they rotate
around. This obviously is easier done when hauled out but
can be done underwater. What you are looking (feeling) for
is any sign that the bearings in the blades are gone. They
should be silky smooth as they rotate and should certainly
move freely. On that note, when was the last time the prop
was lubed, when was the last time the bearings were changed,
and when was the last time the blade seals where changed? A
prop blade with bad bearings can give strange vibrations
while powering.



I do not allow any pressure washing of my prop when hauled
as the high pressure can easily blow past the blade lip
seals and water contaminate the bearings. When you lube
your prop if you have water exit the vent hole then you
should consider disassembling the prop for bearing
inspection.



Are you absolutely certain that you don't have a fuel
filter (there are two) restriction or fuel line restriction
such as a bad fuel tank shut off valve? Verify that the
fuel tank shut off valve is properly rigged and fully open.
Have you put a suction gauge on your fuel filter to see if
the filter is restrictive to flow? Just a couple of cheap
and easy things to check.



Good work on cleaning and verifying the turbo spun freely.
There is a product called Mouse Milk (that you can get from
AircraftSpruce.com) that we use on the waste gate actuators
on aircraft engines to keep them limber. Cheap and easy.




Sincerely,



Gary Silver



This evaluation won't cost you much in time or money and




--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Alex" <uster@> wrote:

Last week, cleant exhaust elbow, heat exchanger and
turbo, I was able to make it spin using a compressed air
bottle. http://nikimat.com/volvo_tmd22_turbo.html

Had a diver scrubbing the prop, said it felt good.
At the dock reach 2500 rpm (did not try higher).
Saturday in the bay, could not exceed 2200 rpm... Very
desapointed.

I could feel some vibrations or wabbling. Any idea?
Could that be the prop not unfolding totally?
Thanks in advance, sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Seabrook, Texas, USA





























_____

I am using the Free version of SPAMfighter
<http://www.spamfighter.com/len>
.
SPAMfighter has removed 1893 of my spam emails to date.

Do you have a slow PC?
<http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen>
Try a free scan!




Re: [Amel] Autoprop recall --prop numbers

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Hello Eric,

I ask the diver to let me know the number, he couldn't find it.

BUT, that now you tell me what to look for, so I see on the previous owner's note and finf my number is: AP3281 (Left Hand turn) - AND it has been recall and rebuilt in December 2002!!! Thanks so much for this little piece of information that answer a large question!!!

Now I can order the rebuilt kits from the place Bill mentionned and so on!!!

Also from "islandbwoy4434" (Dena and ?) it definitely confirms Kent's (SM #243) information.

Thank you so much every one on the forum!

Alexandre


--------------------------------------------

On Wed, 8/21/13, Sailorman <kimberlite@optonline.net> wrote:

Subject: [Amel] Autoprop recall --prop numbers
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, August 21, 2013, 3:55 PM
















 









Alexandre,



I also have a h6 prop it is number 5164.



If your prop is between number ap2902 and ap5299, it should
have been

recalled and rebuilt for free by autoprop.



Fair Winds



Eric



Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite



_____



From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com

[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Alexandre Uster von

Baar

Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2013 4:15 PM

To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com

Subject: Re: [Amel] prop rebuild,..



Hello Eric,



I tested all the Air conditionning Capacitor (and changed
some) a few months

ago, so am familiar with this process.



I just check the bill from Amel (last November), they
greased the prop. I am

sure if they had seen it needed new bearing they would have
mentionned

something... Which prop do you have? I have the Auto Prop
H6.



Sincerely, Alexandre



--------------------------------------------

On Wed, 8/21/13, Sailorman <kimberlite@optonline.net

<mailto:kimberlite%40optonline.net> > wrote:



Subject: [Amel] prop rebuild,..

To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

Date: Wednesday, August 21, 2013, 2:42 PM



The prop rebuild is a time consuming project and is

best done on a workbench



with a vise.



I bought the parts from AB marine for about $900- they

rented me the tools



(cost $350- for 50 dollars-upon return of the tools) I
think

it will take



one person a day plus to do it.



The hardest part is to remove the ball bearing race as it
is

held in by



grease and the tolerances are very tight. It takes a lot of

time and solvent



to remove them.



Fair Winds



Eric



Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite



_____



From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>



[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ]

On Behalf Of Alexandre Uster von



Baar



Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2013 10:44 AM



To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>



Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Turbo desapointment...



Good morning Gary,



If the Marina was cleaner, I would dive myself, but it is
so

dirty...



Not much clean water in "Clear Lake", but I think

I should make an effort



and dive far in the bay.



The propeler was lubed last November. I don't know
about

the last time the



bearing or blade seals were changed.



I was planning on disassembling it in Nov before my trip,

may be I should do



it before.



I recently changed both Engine fuel filter and (single)

Racor fuel filter. I



don't think, but don't know if I have restriction.



I will check the valve.



I don't have suction gauge, any recommendation?

Manufacturer? I am not



familiar with that... Are they permanently mount?



Thanks for the compliment in cleaning the turbo... I wish I

could brag about



2800 rpm!!!



I will looked at the "Mouse Milk" you mentionned!



Thanks again for your email, let me know about these
suction

gauge...



Sincerely, Alexandre



--------------------------------------------



On Wed, 8/21/13, amelliahona <no_reply@yahoogroups.com

<mailto:no_reply%40yahoogroups.com>



<mailto:no_reply%40yahoogroups.com> > wrote:



Subject: [Amel] Re: Turbo desapointment...



To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>



<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>



Date: Wednesday, August 21, 2013, 3:10 AM



Alexander:



A couple of thoughts:



Find some clear water, dive on your prop and visually and



tactilely verify for yourself that the prop is bristol



clean!. I hired a diver once to clean mine due to the nasty



water in the marina, and after he said it was clean, I



subsequently inspected it myself and found it was anything



but clean. I find that even minimal incrustation on the



prop takes me at least 30 minutes of scuba/snuba time to



clean properly. Heavier growth can easily consume an hour.



Use a putty knife and some 3M scotch bright or equivalent

to



get it completely smooth, including the hub area.



While you are down there verify that your prop bearings are



good. This requires a bit of a fine touch. Just slowly



rotate each blade, one at a time, manually and see if there



is any binding, gritty feeling, or roughness as they rotate



around. This obviously is easier done when hauled out but



can be done underwater. What you are looking (feeling) for



is any sign that the bearings in the blades are gone. They



should be silky smooth as they rotate and should certainly



move freely. On that note, when was the last time the prop



was lubed, when was the last time the bearings were

changed,



and when was the last time the blade seals where changed? A



prop blade with bad bearings can give strange vibrations



while powering.



I do not allow any pressure washing of my prop when hauled



as the high pressure can easily blow past the blade lip



seals and water contaminate the bearings. When you lube



your prop if you have water exit the vent hole then you



should consider disassembling the prop for bearing



inspection.



Are you absolutely certain that you don't have a fuel



filter (there are two) restriction or fuel line restriction



such as a bad fuel tank shut off valve? Verify that the



fuel tank shut off valve is properly rigged and fully open.



Have you put a suction gauge on your fuel filter to see if



the filter is restrictive to flow? Just a couple of cheap



and easy things to check.



Good work on cleaning and verifying the turbo spun freely.



There is a product called Mouse Milk (that you can get from



AircraftSpruce.com) that we use on the waste gate actuators



on aircraft engines to keep them limber. Cheap and easy.



Sincerely,



Gary Silver



This evaluation won't cost you much in time or money

and



--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>



<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ,



"Alex" <uster@...> wrote:



>



> Last week, cleant exhaust elbow, heat exchanger and



turbo, I was able to make it spin using a compressed air



bottle. http://nikimat.com/volvo_tmd22_turbo.html



>



> Had a diver scrubbing the prop, said it felt good.



>



> At the dock reach 2500 rpm (did not try higher).



>



> Saturday in the bay, could not exceed 2200 rpm... Very



desapointed.



> I could feel some vibrations or wabbling. Any idea?



> Could that be the prop not unfolding totally?



>



>



> Thanks in advance, sincerely, Alexandre



> SM2K #289 NIKIMAT



> Seabrook, Texas, USA



>



_____



I am using the Free version of SPAMfighter <http://www.spamfighter.com/len>



.



SPAMfighter has removed 1893 of my spam emails to date.



Do you have a slow PC? <http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen>



Try a free scan!



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Re: Volvo Penta TMD22 Low RPM

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Is there any way, you would share the info on the H6 auto prop?
Pitch, diameter, etc.

Thanks in advance, sincerely, Alexandre


--------------------------------------------

On Wed, 8/21/13, islandbwoy4434 <terencesingh@mac.com> wrote:

Subject: [Amel] Re: Volvo Penta TMD22 Low RPM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, August 21, 2013, 4:25 PM
















 









Success!

To close this thread out.

Greg Prior and David Sheppard (AB Marine and Bruntons
respectively) re-worked our A6 prop based upon the extensive
imperial data we provided.



The prop was installed last week and Libby was off on a 5
day excursion to Catalina Island. Here is my email to Geoff
Prior.



'Good morning Geoff, I wanted to close the loop with you
on the prop work.

The prop was installed last week by Rick our local diver.

I took Libby on a 5 day excursion to Catalina Island which
turned out to be a 179 mile round trip with no wind!
(motoring there and back)

I am pleased to report that I was easily able to exceed 2000
RPM at cruising speed.

Noted speeds were 7.6 knots at 2500 RPM and WOT 3100 RPM at
9+ knots.

I know this took a little work on everyones part, and I
would like to thank both you for your excellent support and
help.

Terry "



--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com,
"islandbwoy4434" <terencesingh@...> wrote:

>

> Just installed a reconditioned Turbo charger on
Libby's (#196) TMD22. The Turbo was indeed seized solid
as was the waste gate actuator.

> Prior to installing the re-conditioned unit we noted
that the highest RPM we could achieve was 2000. This gave us
a boat speed of aprox 6-7 knots depending on conditions. We
have the factory feathering Auto prop installed.

> Having read the associated threads on this forum I
fully expected post installation of the refurbished unit to
achieve upwards of 2800 RPM and an increase in top end boat
speed.

> Alas, not the case.

> From a standing start the engine will rev up to 2300
RPM until the feathering prop builds it maximum thrust and
the RPM's drop down the 2000 RPM and 6-7 knots of
speed.

>

> I would like to know if I am missing something here
with respect to my expectations.

> Can anyone offer up some wisdom?

>

> Terry&Dena

> SV Libby #196

> San Diego

>


Re: [Amel] Re: Volvo TMD22 max rpm

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Thanks Dena and ? Islandboy for the info!
More and more it seems the new prop wil lbe required...

Just out of curiosity, how much was the total work on the H6 Auto Prop?

Sincerely, Alexandre

--------------------------------------------

On Wed, 8/21/13, islandbwoy4434 <terencesingh@mac.com> wrote:

Subject: [Amel] Re: Volvo TMD22 max rpm
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, August 21, 2013, 4:35 PM
















 









My two cents worth after exhaustive analysis of low
max RPM's.

Dena and I have owned Libby #196 for 18 months.

We were never able to get more that 2000 RPM's @ 6.5
knots out of the TMD22 with an H6 AutoProp.

Replaced the Turbo, checked engine and transmission RPM with
optical Tach at 100RPM intervals both stationary at the dock
and sea trial.

Cleaned exhaust elbow, checked fuel system, and a host of
other suggestions as noted in my thread.

Consulted with AB Marine and Bruntons and provided tons of
empirical data.

David Sheppard provided Geoff Prior of AB Marine a new
profile for the Prop.

Prop also received a full service including new bearings.

Prop was re-fitted last week.

New results.

Max RPM's 3000 @ 9 Knots+

2500 RPM's @ 7.5knots



Very happy that I can now run the TMD22 at a point where the
Turbo is actually working.

Not sure why the H6 was pitched that way it was and supplied
to Amel.





--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com,
"Graham" <crwggb@...> wrote:

>

> Straight forward question:

>

> If you have or have had a Volvo TMD22 in your Super
Maramu, what is the max RPM you ever achieved with the max
prop fitted? The more responses the better!

>

> Graham

> SM 140 Sula

> Hong Kong

>