Date   

Re: [Amel] RE: Cleaning the fresh water tanks

Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

Kent in our two Amels we have installed a charcoal filter before the fresh water for all the reasons you are concerned about.  We've not had any adverse issues and never have to be concerned when we back flush to water maker. 

Regards 
Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

On Oct 21, 2013, at 14:40, Kent Robertson <karkauai@...> wrote:

 

Thanks to all for your suggestions.  I've left the boat for a week with a gallon of household bleach in a full tank, and will return to drain and rinse and try the vinegar and/or peroxide.  I may try the Spray 9 on selected spots if those don't work, assuming I can flush enough to remove what ever I use.

Does anyone know if peroxide would damage the membranes if a small amount was used to retard bacterial/fungal tank growth?  I've asked FilmTec but haven't received a reply yet.

Mark at Great Water suggested I use a small amount of chlorine in the tank to retard growth, and then run that thru a charcoal filter before flushing, changing the filter once every 6-12 months.  Another company suggested that I put a UV treatment system between the membranes and the tank to further sterilize the water as it is produced.

I was shocked to see how much growth was in the tanks.  I've been checking the water for TDS and it's always checked out below 500, so have been drinking from the tank without additional filtering...it always tasted fine.  I guess you can tell that I don't want to have this mold problem again if I can help it.

Thanks,
Kent
SM243
Kristy
Brunswick, GA USA



From: amelliahona <no_reply@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Sunday, October 20, 2013 9:31 PM
Subject: [Amel] RE: Cleaning the fresh water tanks

 
Hi Kent:  

Greetings from Liahona. 

I have cleaned and sanitized my water tanks with Clorox every year that I have owned Liahona, yet I still get those same black mold like spots that appear to be a little mound of solid material about 1 cm in diameter and when removed they leave a black base that defies removal.  I have cleaned the tanks as best I can, sanitized them and have decided to live in harmony with whatever type of creature this is.  No amount of cleaning has produced a satisfactory result and I haven't noticed any health issues in 12 years of ownership.  When I sanitize my system I do fill the tanks to the very top and then try to go sailing to allow the treated water to slosh into all nooks and crannies etc.  

I have had good luck on other mold areas with  Spray Nine.  It is very effective at removing and preventing molds for a period of time in my rubber scuppers at the rub rail.  It is a proprietary product available at West Marine etc, and I have not tried it in the water system for fear of toxicity.  Might be worth a spot treatment trial and if it works seeking more information from the manufacturer about use in water systems. 

Great job of posting lots of information for others.  

All the best, 

Gary Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 335   on the hard in Jolly Harbor Antigua


---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote:

Vinegar then baking soda then flush with water.
.


On Saturday, October 19, 2013 1:40 PM, Kent Robertson
 
Thanks, Stephanie, I'll try anything at this point.
Kent


From: Stephanie DiBelardino
To: "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Saturday, October 19, 2013 1:13 PM
Subject: Re: [Amel] RE: Cleaning the fresh water tanks

 
Have you tried hydrogen peroxide (min 3% solution, available in any drug store?  Spray it on full strength.  Let it work, then rinse.  If it is still there, try again.  Also Borax might work -- 1 cup to 1 gal. Water.

Good luck with this job!
Stephanie

Stephanie DiBelardino

On Oct 19, 2013, at 5:30 PM, <karkauai@...> wrote:

 
Hi again,
I'm stuck.  I've filled the tanks with 2 gallons of household bleach and let it sit overnight.  I've brushed with a stiff brush on a pole.  At Bill's suggestion,  I've purchased an 1800psi pressure and spent an hour on the middle tank.  There are still numerous globs of mold adhered to the walls of the tank.  If I can reach them I can knock the bulk of a glob off with my fingernail, but it still leaves a black spot and blacker ring that I can't knock off with the pressure sprayer.

Sooo, anyone have any ideas about what else I can do?  How much bleach is enough?  How much is too much?

Thanks for any and all suggestions.
Kent
SM243 Kristy
Brunswick GA USA


---In amelyachtowners@..., <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Hi again, gang.
I'm cleaning my fresh water tanks for the first time, don't know if the previous owner ever did it.  I've accessed the center tank (under the galley sole) and the aft tank (under the galley fridge).  There are a fair amount of mildew/mold spots that are tightly adhered to the inside of the tank, and after filling the tank with a fairly potent bleach mixture I'm still finding it impossible to get it cleaned off.  Is there any kind of chemical that can be used other than bleach that would work better and be safe?  Given the difficult access and impossibility of getting good pressure with a stiff brush, I'm running out of ideas.
 
I tried to access old files and photos (used Bill's suggestions) and can't seem to get them.  Also still can't reply to an existing thread (nothing happens when I click on "reply")
 
Thanks for any suggestions.
Kent
SM243 Kristy
Brunswick, GA, USA







Re: [Amel] Forestay tension

Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

Hi Dave when you talk to the Amel engineers they will tell you that the Amel deck stepped masts are designed to be under enough tension so they do not slack at all when going to windward. That translates into a tight rig. 

Regards 
Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

On Oct 21, 2013, at 17:48, <dave_benjamin@...> wrote:

 

I've had some doubts about the "conventional wisdom" of Amel's overly taut rigs. I don't know about other Maramu's but mine used the same size wire for the lowers as it did the cap shrouds. That makes no sense from an engineering standpoint. Carrying excessive rig tension flies in the face of well accepted principles of naval architecture and engineering. At the end of the day, an Amel is a great yacht, but how can the rigging requirements and practices be so disparate from those used by other builders? 



---In amelyachtowners@..., <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Hi Amel wants the rig to be very tight. Check the back stay near the mizzen mast as well as the head stay. Is the mast straight ( in column?)   DO NOT SAIL UNTIL WE HAVE FOUND THE PROBLEM.  It is not uncommon to see some stretch in the wire over time. All of the stays should ring when tapped with a wood hammer handle. Check the rig and mast/deck attachment on a no wind day. 

Regards 
Capt Richard Piller
Fairbanks Yacht Group llc
Cell 603 767 5330

On Oct 21, 2013, at 8:21, <drew.gaffney@...> wrote:

 

Are there any guidelines for proper tension of the forestay?  Coming across the Indian Ocean, we noticed some lateral play that seemed more than previously noted.  The main mast rigging is tight and there's no 'rake'.  The movement of the forestay chainplate is well-within the rectangular bracket surrounding it below the turnbuckle.

If there's been a discussion, please send the message number; I found nothing with various search terms.
Thanks,
Drew and Lili
SM390, lying Durban Marina


Re: [Amel] Forestay tension

Dave_Benjamin
 

I've had some doubts about the "conventional wisdom" of Amel's overly taut rigs. I don't know about other Maramu's but mine used the same size wire for the lowers as it did the cap shrouds. That makes no sense from an engineering standpoint. Carrying excessive rig tension flies in the face of well accepted principles of naval architecture and engineering. At the end of the day, an Amel is a great yacht, but how can the rigging requirements and practices be so disparate from those used by other builders? 



---In amelyachtowners@..., <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Hi Amel wants the rig to be very tight. Check the back stay near the mizzen mast as well as the head stay. Is the mast straight ( in column?)   DO NOT SAIL UNTIL WE HAVE FOUND THE PROBLEM.  It is not uncommon to see some stretch in the wire over time. All of the stays should ring when tapped with a wood hammer handle. Check the rig and mast/deck attachment on a no wind day. 

Regards 
Capt Richard Piller
Fairbanks Yacht Group llc
Cell 603 767 5330

On Oct 21, 2013, at 8:21, <drew.gaffney@...> wrote:

 

Are there any guidelines for proper tension of the forestay?  Coming across the Indian Ocean, we noticed some lateral play that seemed more than previously noted.  The main mast rigging is tight and there's no 'rake'.  The movement of the forestay chainplate is well-within the rectangular bracket surrounding it below the turnbuckle.

If there's been a discussion, please send the message number; I found nothing with various search terms.
Thanks,
Drew and Lili
SM390, lying Durban Marina


Re: [Amel] RE: Website Woes

karkauai
 

I, too, thank you for all you do, JL.
My problem with posting is intermittent, sometimes it won't work with Windows Explorer but works with Mozilla Firefox, sometimes vice versa.  Sometimes it won't work with either, but if I close the program and reopen it, it will work.  Usually when I try to access photos section, it will only give me the first page of albums, whether most recent first, oldest first, or alphabetical.  Once that worked fine for me but the next time I tried, it didn't work again.
Thanks again,
Kent
SM243
Kristy



From: Richard Piller
To: "amelyachtowners@..."
Sent: Sunday, October 20, 2013 10:22 PM
Subject: Re: [Amel] RE: Website Woes

 
Thanks JL for your input.  The site may lack some tools however it is about a good a working site out there for a bunch of boat owners that have a prime objective to help other Amel owners work through issues for the common good.  Yahoo is yahoo and not going away anytime soon which is how this string got started. And thank you once again for your service. 

Regards
Capt Richard Piller

On Oct 20, 2013, at 17:59, <lji0041@...> wrote:

 
Hi Kent,
 
You can search messages in this group using the upper window. To the right of the Yahoo logo.
Please let me know why you cannot post messages. I can ask Yahoo, if you  have not done it yourself.

I agree that the tools that Yahoo provide are not perfect, but it is what we have so far. And it is for free.

You can find all the messages since the start of the group. Unfortunately, Yahoo does not provide a way now to export them.

I use some of my spare time to approve new members, filter messages, etc. But I cannot dedicate much more time.

I feel that we need some time to adapt to the changes. I also understand that some of you may need more, but all that I could have seen either has drawbacks or it is not for free. And I have to stand for everybody in the group.

You can count on me for the good of the group.

My best regards
JL
Group Moderator




---In amelyachtowners@..., <karkauai@...> wrote:

Hi all,
First let me say that the group webpage is now useless to me for searching messages, or even posting a new topic.  I had to post this via regular email.  We've got to do something about this before all our info is lost completely.  I'm ready to fork out some money to hire someone (preferably someone who is a member and competent to guide us and make it work) to find another way to continue our "conversations" and be able to post pics and files...even to attach a pic to a message.
 
We've talked about this for a couple of months now, is anyone actually doing anything?  I am pretty computer illiterate, but I am willing to find someone who can do this for us.  Should I just forge ahead, or should we be more formal about it...take a vote or something?
 
I think everyone would be willing to pay a reasonable fee to participate, what's reasonable?  $10 per year? $25?  What about upfront investment...$25? $50?
 
I fear that a lot of our information has already disappeared into the ether.
 
Thanks,
Kent
SM243 Kristy
Brunswick, GA, USA



Re: [Amel] RE: Cleaning the fresh water tanks

karkauai
 

Thanks to all for your suggestions.  I've left the boat for a week with a gallon of household bleach in a full tank, and will return to drain and rinse and try the vinegar and/or peroxide.  I may try the Spray 9 on selected spots if those don't work, assuming I can flush enough to remove what ever I use.

Does anyone know if peroxide would damage the membranes if a small amount was used to retard bacterial/fungal tank growth?  I've asked FilmTec but haven't received a reply yet.

Mark at Great Water suggested I use a small amount of chlorine in the tank to retard growth, and then run that thru a charcoal filter before flushing, changing the filter once every 6-12 months.  Another company suggested that I put a UV treatment system between the membranes and the tank to further sterilize the water as it is produced.

I was shocked to see how much growth was in the tanks.  I've been checking the water for TDS and it's always checked out below 500, so have been drinking from the tank without additional filtering...it always tasted fine.  I guess you can tell that I don't want to have this mold problem again if I can help it.

Thanks,
Kent
SM243
Kristy
Brunswick, GA USA



From: amelliahona
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Sunday, October 20, 2013 9:31 PM
Subject: [Amel] RE: Cleaning the fresh water tanks

 
Hi Kent:  

Greetings from Liahona. 

I have cleaned and sanitized my water tanks with Clorox every year that I have owned Liahona, yet I still get those same black mold like spots that appear to be a little mound of solid material about 1 cm in diameter and when removed they leave a black base that defies removal.  I have cleaned the tanks as best I can, sanitized them and have decided to live in harmony with whatever type of creature this is.  No amount of cleaning has produced a satisfactory result and I haven't noticed any health issues in 12 years of ownership.  When I sanitize my system I do fill the tanks to the very top and then try to go sailing to allow the treated water to slosh into all nooks and crannies etc.  

I have had good luck on other mold areas with  Spray Nine.  It is very effective at removing and preventing molds for a period of time in my rubber scuppers at the rub rail.  It is a proprietary product available at West Marine etc, and I have not tried it in the water system for fear of toxicity.  Might be worth a spot treatment trial and if it works seeking more information from the manufacturer about use in water systems. 

Great job of posting lots of information for others.  

All the best, 

Gary Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 335   on the hard in Jolly Harbor Antigua


---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote:

Vinegar then baking soda then flush with water.
.


On Saturday, October 19, 2013 1:40 PM, Kent Robertson wrote:
 
Thanks, Stephanie, I'll try anything at this point.
Kent


From: Stephanie DiBelardino <stephiedib@...>
To: "amelyachtowners@..."
Sent: Saturday, October 19, 2013 1:13 PM
Subject: Re: [Amel] RE: Cleaning the fresh water tanks

 
Have you tried hydrogen peroxide (min 3% solution, available in any drug store?  Spray it on full strength.  Let it work, then rinse.  If it is still there, try again.  Also Borax might work -- 1 cup to 1 gal. Water.

Good luck with this job!
Stephanie

Stephanie DiBelardino

On Oct 19, 2013, at 5:30 PM, <karkauai@...> wrote:

 
Hi again,
I'm stuck.  I've filled the tanks with 2 gallons of household bleach and let it sit overnight.  I've brushed with a stiff brush on a pole.  At Bill's suggestion,  I've purchased an 1800psi pressure and spent an hour on the middle tank.  There are still numerous globs of mold adhered to the walls of the tank.  If I can reach them I can knock the bulk of a glob off with my fingernail, but it still leaves a black spot and blacker ring that I can't knock off with the pressure sprayer.

Sooo, anyone have any ideas about what else I can do?  How much bleach is enough?  How much is too much?

Thanks for any and all suggestions.
Kent
SM243 Kristy
Brunswick GA USA


---In amelyachtowners@..., <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Hi again, gang.
I'm cleaning my fresh water tanks for the first time, don't know if the previous owner ever did it.  I've accessed the center tank (under the galley sole) and the aft tank (under the galley fridge).  There are a fair amount of mildew/mold spots that are tightly adhered to the inside of the tank, and after filling the tank with a fairly potent bleach mixture I'm still finding it impossible to get it cleaned off.  Is there any kind of chemical that can be used other than bleach that would work better and be safe?  Given the difficult access and impossibility of getting good pressure with a stiff brush, I'm running out of ideas.
 
I tried to access old files and photos (used Bill's suggestions) and can't seem to get them.  Also still can't reply to an existing thread (nothing happens when I click on "reply")
 
Thanks for any suggestions.
Kent
SM243 Kristy
Brunswick, GA, USA







Re: [Amel] Forestay tension

Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

Hi Amel wants the rig to be very tight. Check the back stay near the mizzen mast as well as the head stay. Is the mast straight ( in column?)   DO NOT SAIL UNTIL WE HAVE FOUND THE PROBLEM.  It is not uncommon to see some stretch in the wire over time. All of the stays should ring when tapped with a wood hammer handle. Check the rig and mast/deck attachment on a no wind day. 

Regards 
Capt Richard Piller
Fairbanks Yacht Group llc
Cell 603 767 5330

On Oct 21, 2013, at 8:21, <drew.gaffney@...> wrote:

 

Are there any guidelines for proper tension of the forestay?  Coming across the Indian Ocean, we noticed some lateral play that seemed more than previously noted.  The main mast rigging is tight and there's no 'rake'.  The movement of the forestay chainplate is well-within the rectangular bracket surrounding it below the turnbuckle.

If there's been a discussion, please send the message number; I found nothing with various search terms.
Thanks,
Drew and Lili
SM390, lying Durban Marina


Re: R: [Amel] Anyone near Rome?

Stephanie DiBelardino <stephiedib@...>
 

Ciao Ornella!

Do you also keep your boat in Ancona?  How far are you from Teramo?

Fair winds!
Stephanie

Stephanie DiBelardino

On Oct 21, 2013, at 3:02 PM, "ornella.battaglini@..." <ornella.battaglini@...> wrote:

 

Hi Stephanie,

Enio and I live most of the time in Ancona,  in the middle of Adriatic Sea: is it too far for you?

G.V.

Ornella

Santorin N° 122 Earendil, Ancona (Italy)

----Messaggio originale----
Da: stephiedib@...
Data: 19/10/2013 9.58
A: "amelyachtowners"<amelyachtowners@...>
Ogg: [Amel] Anyone near Rome?

 

Ezio and I are currently at our apt in Nettuno just SW of Rome. Are any of you receiving this e-mail nearby? If so, we would like to invite you to join us one afternoon or evening for "pranzo,". "cena," or whatever fits your schedule. Or, we have a car and can drive to meet you if you are elsewhere along the coast, between Naples and Livorno.

Fair winds!

Stephanie DiBelardino




R: [Amel] Anyone near Rome?

ornella.battaglini@libero.it <ornella.battaglini@...>
 

Hi Stephanie,

Enio and I live most of the time in Ancona,  in the middle of Adriatic Sea: is it too far for you?

G.V.

Ornella

Santorin N° 122 Earendil, Ancona (Italy)

----Messaggio originale----
Da: stephiedib@...
Data: 19/10/2013 9.58
A: "amelyachtowners"
Ogg: [Amel] Anyone near Rome?

 

Ezio and I are currently at our apt in Nettuno just SW of Rome. Are any of you receiving this e-mail nearby? If so, we would like to invite you to join us one afternoon or evening for "pranzo,". "cena," or whatever fits your schedule. Or, we have a car and can drive to meet you if you are elsewhere along the coast, between Naples and Livorno.

Fair winds!

Stephanie DiBelardino




iCom Tuner Problems

drew.gaffney@...
 

Our AT-140 tuner had been working well, but the past few weeks, has intermittant problems tuning in the 14-21MHz range.  Sometimes it tunes immediately, sometimes it won't tune those frequencies at all, and sometimes it says "tune", but with two or 3 transmissions, it loses it's tune.  We're using the iCom 802 and a Commander whip that's 21.5' in length.

I've spoken with iCom and they could only suggest sending it back to their service center in Washington state.  There's no iCom repair facility in South Africa.
I wonder if there's an intermittant inability to activate one of the tuning coils, but I'm not sure how to check that.  When the system works, it works well and we're quite pleased with it.  South Africa has a single AirMail station with 3 consecutive 20M frequencies.
Thanks
Drew and Lili
Revelation SM390
Durban ZA


Forestay tension

drew.gaffney@...
 

Are there any guidelines for proper tension of the forestay?  Coming across the Indian Ocean, we noticed some lateral play that seemed more than previously noted.  The main mast rigging is tight and there's no 'rake'.  The movement of the forestay chainplate is well-within the rectangular bracket surrounding it below the turnbuckle.

If there's been a discussion, please send the message number; I found nothing with various search terms.
Thanks,
Drew and Lili
SM390, lying Durban Marina


Re: [Amel] bow truster

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Lior<

1. if it is soleniod, is it posible that it works again for few times? YES, this is possible
2. i have a spare similar soleniod but it is written 12v, can i try this one? NO, your bow thruster is 24 volts and I assume that all of the controls are 12 volts
3. i thought maybe it could be the switch. there are four cabels connected. two lefe and two right. These cables are switch cables. on each side of the switch you have 2 cables connected to the switch...activating the switch causes these two cables to connect. So one set of two cables for PORT thrust and one set of two cables for STARBOARD thrust. On each side of the switch, one will be hot (+24V) with the switch in neutral, then with the switch moved either left or right, the other wire on the same side will become connected to the first wire and be hot (+24V).

If I was checking this, I would find a good 24 volt ground to connect the negative cable to the voltmeter, then checking one side at a time find the hot terminal on each side of the switch. Then move the switch to see if the switch turns on the other terminal on each side. You can also turn the power off to the switch and check continuity (connection), but that will not tell you which switch terminal is the input and which one is the output. I think that the switch is probably OK because the switch will not wear out with use like a solenoid will.

So simply stated your bow thruster has two switches that have to operate for PORT and two for STARBOARD.

The first switch for PORT will be at the joy stick in the cockpit. That switch sends 24 volts to the electromagnet inside the PORT solenoid. When the electromagnet is engaged, another switch connects inside the solenoid. This last connection will be a high amp connection with more than 100 amps flowing through the connection...that is enough amperage to weld some metals. So every time you move the joy stick to PORT inside that solenoid there is some burning at the contact points. As the burning gets worse, the contact gets worse and eventually it connects some of the time, then not all. The same thing happens to the STARBOARD solenoid when it is engaged.

Maybe you can understand why I assume that it is the solenoid?

I will be leaving for the airport in a few minutes and be off line for about 10 days. I suggest that you contact Riza at Emek Marine.

Bill
BeBe



On Mon, Oct 21, 2013 at 8:49 AM, Lior <lior246@...> wrote:
 

bill,
thanks a lot for your mail.
first, today after many tries it worked again for one or two times and then it did work again.
 i have a few questions:
1. if it is soleniod, is it posible that it works again for few times?
2. i have a spare similar soleniod but it is written 12v, can i try this one? or it will burn?
3. i thought maybe it could be the switch. there are four cabels connected. two lefe and two right.
only one left down and the right down are not connected. shel i chek volt or conection? 

thanks a lot
lior



ב-21 באוק 2013, בשעה 09:32, "Bill & Judy Rouse" <yahoogroups@...> כתב/ה:

 

Lior,

Again, I am not familiar with the exact system in a 54, but know that it works with solenoids.
It works something like this:
  1. When the cockpit joy stick is pressed to port, a 24 volt low amp current is sent to the low amp side of a 24 volt PORT solenoid.
  2. The low amp side of the solenoid triggers an electromagnet which when energized, closes a 24 volt high amperage switch. When this happens you should be able to hear a click if you are near the solenoid.
  3. When the cockpit joy stick is pressed to starboard, the same thing happens, but to a different solenoid...the STARBOARD solenoid.
Solenoids go bad because the high amperage switching ON causes a slight burning of the contacts...the more it is used, the more burned the contacts become. The more they are burned the more resistance in the circuit until finally there is not enough current flow. I happen to really appreciate the very large over-sized tractor solenoids that Amel used on the Super Maramu solenoids, but now Amel uses an off-the-shelf bow thruster that has other advantages over the Super Maramu.

What I do not know is if the two solenoids are inside the control box, or not. I talked to another owner of a 54 and I think I remember him telling me that they are NOT inside the control box, but I am not sure.

It is possible that the joy stick is not working on one side. The way the joy stick works, in an emergency, you could replace it with two ordinary toggle switches, making sure that you do not turn them ON at the same time...in other words, one MUST be OFF, while the other is ON. If you happen to have a DPDT switch (Double Pole Double Throw)...this switch could temporarily replace the joy stick. With a voltmeter you should be able to check to see if the joy stick is working. 

Of course it is also possible that an electrical connection is loose somewhere.

And a "long-shot" is that the charge state of your batteries or the condition of your batteries is bad. For instance, you could have a short in one of the batteries in your house bank. This can cause a significant loss of "cranking amps." In this case, it is possible that one high amperage circuit will work (bow thruster in one direction) but another will not (bow thruster in the other direction). You can probably eliminate this as a cause by trying the bow thruster with a battery charger ON...either the main engine at 1,500 rpm, or the generator ON and the 100 amp battery charger ON...don't do a lot of this...just do it to check it...and let me know if your bow thruster works when the batteries are charging.

If the above does not help you get to the problem, tracing the electrical circuit is probably needed. Can you get an electrician there?

Bill


On Mon, Oct 21, 2013 at 5:58 AM, Lior <lior246@...> wrote:
 

dear gary and bill

i changed this part but it is still the same. i even have two spares and triad both. any other suggestion?

thanks a lot
lior



ב-20 באוק 2013, בשעה 19:54, Bozo Cinq <bozocinq@...> כתב/ה:

 

Iior,


When you are looking at the Bow Thruster unit-on the left side of the motor unit is attached the black solenoid box with the big electric wires attached. If you look further down the side to underneath this solenoid unit you should see the control box which you should be able to slide towards you out of the clip that is holding it. Once out you should be able to unplug the control unit and plug in the new one. BESURE YOU TURN OFF THE POWER TO THE BOW THRUSTER BY SHUTTING OFF THE BATTERIES before replacing the control box. Hope this helps!

Gary

Bozo Cinq
AMEL 54 - #44








On Oct 20, 2013, at 11:21 AM, Lior <lior246@...> wrote:

 

gary and bob

i have this part in the boat. can you write me where it is exactly?

thanks
lior



ב-20 באוק 2013, בשעה 15:34, Bozo Cinq <bozocinq@...> כתב/ה:

 

Loir,

BeBe is correct. To be a little more specific First I would look at what is called an electronic control Box which is located in a bracket under the solenoid. It is simply a process of unplugging the old box and replacing it with a new one. I carry a spare. I acquired the item from Side-power and the item number is ART. no. 6 12321.  I will mention that I have replaced my solenoid with bigger ones as the originals were to small for the motor so therefore if you have the originals then it may take a different control box. The item number should be on the control box.

Gary

Bozo Cinq
AMEL 54 - #44








On Oct 20, 2013, at 7:47 AM, "Bill & Judy Rouse" <yahoogroups@...> wrote:

 

Lior,

This will not help you much, but an electrician will probably find a fault in the control box. I have not seen the controls, but I am sure that one solenoid is not working. It is very unlikely that it is anything else. So start there and save some time. If you are coming to Gocek, I know that Emek Marine has parts for the 54 bow thruster and can help you. 

Contact for Emek is:
Riza Cagdas CAKIR 
Chief Operating Officer
EMEK MARIN LTD.STI
Iskele Mah 62B 48310 Gocek\Mugla\TURKEY
Tel:+90 252 645 2468
Fax:+90 252 645 2899
cagdas"at"emekmarin.com
www.emekmarin.com


On Sun, Oct 20, 2013 at 10:45 AM, Lior <lior246@...> wrote:
 

hi 

my bow truster works only in the right side. when i try to use the left side, it does not work... maybe can someone help me? i am in a small port in Greece...

thanks
lior, gnom 7, amel 54 #18












Re: [Amel] bow truster

Lior <lior246@...>
 

bill,
thanks a lot for your mail.
first, today after many tries it worked again for one or two times and then it did work again.
 i have a few questions:
1. if it is soleniod, is it posible that it works again for few times?
2. i have a spare similar soleniod but it is written 12v, can i try this one? or it will burn?
3. i thought maybe it could be the switch. there are four cabels connected. two lefe and two right.
only one left down and the right down are not connected. shel i chek volt or conection? 

thanks a lot
lior



ב-21 באוק 2013, בשעה 09:32, "Bill & Judy Rouse" <yahoogroups@...> כתב/ה:

 

Lior,

Again, I am not familiar with the exact system in a 54, but know that it works with solenoids.
It works something like this:
  1. When the cockpit joy stick is pressed to port, a 24 volt low amp current is sent to the low amp side of a 24 volt PORT solenoid.
  2. The low amp side of the solenoid triggers an electromagnet which when energized, closes a 24 volt high amperage switch. When this happens you should be able to hear a click if you are near the solenoid.
  3. When the cockpit joy stick is pressed to starboard, the same thing happens, but to a different solenoid...the STARBOARD solenoid.
Solenoids go bad because the high amperage switching ON causes a slight burning of the contacts...the more it is used, the more burned the contacts become. The more they are burned the more resistance in the circuit until finally there is not enough current flow. I happen to really appreciate the very large over-sized tractor solenoids that Amel used on the Super Maramu solenoids, but now Amel uses an off-the-shelf bow thruster that has other advantages over the Super Maramu.

What I do not know is if the two solenoids are inside the control box, or not. I talked to another owner of a 54 and I think I remember him telling me that they are NOT inside the control box, but I am not sure.

It is possible that the joy stick is not working on one side. The way the joy stick works, in an emergency, you could replace it with two ordinary toggle switches, making sure that you do not turn them ON at the same time...in other words, one MUST be OFF, while the other is ON. If you happen to have a DPDT switch (Double Pole Double Throw)...this switch could temporarily replace the joy stick. With a voltmeter you should be able to check to see if the joy stick is working. 

Of course it is also possible that an electrical connection is loose somewhere.

And a "long-shot" is that the charge state of your batteries or the condition of your batteries is bad. For instance, you could have a short in one of the batteries in your house bank. This can cause a significant loss of "cranking amps." In this case, it is possible that one high amperage circuit will work (bow thruster in one direction) but another will not (bow thruster in the other direction). You can probably eliminate this as a cause by trying the bow thruster with a battery charger ON...either the main engine at 1,500 rpm, or the generator ON and the 100 amp battery charger ON...don't do a lot of this...just do it to check it...and let me know if your bow thruster works when the batteries are charging.

If the above does not help you get to the problem, tracing the electrical circuit is probably needed. Can you get an electrician there?

Bill


On Mon, Oct 21, 2013 at 5:58 AM, Lior <lior246@...> wrote:
 

dear gary and bill

i changed this part but it is still the same. i even have two spares and triad both. any other suggestion?

thanks a lot
lior



ב-20 באוק 2013, בשעה 19:54, Bozo Cinq <bozocinq@...> כתב/ה:

 

Iior,


When you are looking at the Bow Thruster unit-on the left side of the motor unit is attached the black solenoid box with the big electric wires attached. If you look further down the side to underneath this solenoid unit you should see the control box which you should be able to slide towards you out of the clip that is holding it. Once out you should be able to unplug the control unit and plug in the new one. BESURE YOU TURN OFF THE POWER TO THE BOW THRUSTER BY SHUTTING OFF THE BATTERIES before replacing the control box. Hope this helps!

Gary

Bozo Cinq
AMEL 54 - #44








On Oct 20, 2013, at 11:21 AM, Lior <lior246@...> wrote:

 

gary and bob

i have this part in the boat. can you write me where it is exactly?

thanks
lior



ב-20 באוק 2013, בשעה 15:34, Bozo Cinq <bozocinq@...> כתב/ה:

 

Loir,

BeBe is correct. To be a little more specific First I would look at what is called an electronic control Box which is located in a bracket under the solenoid. It is simply a process of unplugging the old box and replacing it with a new one. I carry a spare. I acquired the item from Side-power and the item number is ART. no. 6 12321.  I will mention that I have replaced my solenoid with bigger ones as the originals were to small for the motor so therefore if you have the originals then it may take a different control box. The item number should be on the control box.

Gary

Bozo Cinq
AMEL 54 - #44








On Oct 20, 2013, at 7:47 AM, "Bill & Judy Rouse" <yahoogroups@...> wrote:

 

Lior,

This will not help you much, but an electrician will probably find a fault in the control box. I have not seen the controls, but I am sure that one solenoid is not working. It is very unlikely that it is anything else. So start there and save some time. If you are coming to Gocek, I know that Emek Marine has parts for the 54 bow thruster and can help you. 

Contact for Emek is:
Riza Cagdas CAKIR 
Chief Operating Officer
EMEK MARIN LTD.STI
Iskele Mah 62B 48310 Gocek\Mugla\TURKEY
Tel:+90 252 645 2468
Fax:+90 252 645 2899
cagdas"at"emekmarin.com
www.emekmarin.com


On Sun, Oct 20, 2013 at 10:45 AM, Lior <lior246@...> wrote:
 

hi 

my bow truster works only in the right side. when i try to use the left side, it does not work... maybe can someone help me? i am in a small port in Greece...

thanks
lior, gnom 7, amel 54 #18










Reply via web post Reply to sender Reply to group


Re: [Amel] bow truster

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Lior,

Again, I am not familiar with the exact system in a 54, but know that it works with solenoids.
It works something like this:
  1. When the cockpit joy stick is pressed to port, a 24 volt low amp current is sent to the low amp side of a 24 volt PORT solenoid.
  2. The low amp side of the solenoid triggers an electromagnet which when energized, closes a 24 volt high amperage switch. When this happens you should be able to hear a click if you are near the solenoid.
  3. When the cockpit joy stick is pressed to starboard, the same thing happens, but to a different solenoid...the STARBOARD solenoid.
Solenoids go bad because the high amperage switching ON causes a slight burning of the contacts...the more it is used, the more burned the contacts become. The more they are burned the more resistance in the circuit until finally there is not enough current flow. I happen to really appreciate the very large over-sized tractor solenoids that Amel used on the Super Maramu solenoids, but now Amel uses an off-the-shelf bow thruster that has other advantages over the Super Maramu.

What I do not know is if the two solenoids are inside the control box, or not. I talked to another owner of a 54 and I think I remember him telling me that they are NOT inside the control box, but I am not sure.

It is possible that the joy stick is not working on one side. The way the joy stick works, in an emergency, you could replace it with two ordinary toggle switches, making sure that you do not turn them ON at the same time...in other words, one MUST be OFF, while the other is ON. If you happen to have a DPDT switch (Double Pole Double Throw)...this switch could temporarily replace the joy stick. With a voltmeter you should be able to check to see if the joy stick is working. 

Of course it is also possible that an electrical connection is loose somewhere.

And a "long-shot" is that the charge state of your batteries or the condition of your batteries is bad. For instance, you could have a short in one of the batteries in your house bank. This can cause a significant loss of "cranking amps." In this case, it is possible that one high amperage circuit will work (bow thruster in one direction) but another will not (bow thruster in the other direction). You can probably eliminate this as a cause by trying the bow thruster with a battery charger ON...either the main engine at 1,500 rpm, or the generator ON and the 100 amp battery charger ON...don't do a lot of this...just do it to check it...and let me know if your bow thruster works when the batteries are charging.

If the above does not help you get to the problem, tracing the electrical circuit is probably needed. Can you get an electrician there?

Bill


On Mon, Oct 21, 2013 at 5:58 AM, Lior <lior246@...> wrote:
 

dear gary and bill

i changed this part but it is still the same. i even have two spares and triad both. any other suggestion?

thanks a lot
lior



ב-20 באוק 2013, בשעה 19:54, Bozo Cinq <bozocinq@...> כתב/ה:

 

Iior,


When you are looking at the Bow Thruster unit-on the left side of the motor unit is attached the black solenoid box with the big electric wires attached. If you look further down the side to underneath this solenoid unit you should see the control box which you should be able to slide towards you out of the clip that is holding it. Once out you should be able to unplug the control unit and plug in the new one. BESURE YOU TURN OFF THE POWER TO THE BOW THRUSTER BY SHUTTING OFF THE BATTERIES before replacing the control box. Hope this helps!

Gary

Bozo Cinq
AMEL 54 - #44








On Oct 20, 2013, at 11:21 AM, Lior <lior246@...> wrote:

 

gary and bob

i have this part in the boat. can you write me where it is exactly?

thanks
lior



ב-20 באוק 2013, בשעה 15:34, Bozo Cinq <bozocinq@...> כתב/ה:

 

Loir,

BeBe is correct. To be a little more specific First I would look at what is called an electronic control Box which is located in a bracket under the solenoid. It is simply a process of unplugging the old box and replacing it with a new one. I carry a spare. I acquired the item from Side-power and the item number is ART. no. 6 12321.  I will mention that I have replaced my solenoid with bigger ones as the originals were to small for the motor so therefore if you have the originals then it may take a different control box. The item number should be on the control box.

Gary

Bozo Cinq
AMEL 54 - #44








On Oct 20, 2013, at 7:47 AM, "Bill & Judy Rouse" <yahoogroups@...> wrote:

 

Lior,

This will not help you much, but an electrician will probably find a fault in the control box. I have not seen the controls, but I am sure that one solenoid is not working. It is very unlikely that it is anything else. So start there and save some time. If you are coming to Gocek, I know that Emek Marine has parts for the 54 bow thruster and can help you. 

Contact for Emek is:
Riza Cagdas CAKIR 
Chief Operating Officer
EMEK MARIN LTD.STI
Iskele Mah 62B 48310 Gocek\Mugla\TURKEY
Tel:+90 252 645 2468
Fax:+90 252 645 2899
cagdas"at"emekmarin.com
www.emekmarin.com


On Sun, Oct 20, 2013 at 10:45 AM, Lior <lior246@...> wrote:
 

hi 

my bow truster works only in the right side. when i try to use the left side, it does not work... maybe can someone help me? i am in a small port in Greece...

thanks
lior, gnom 7, amel 54 #18











Re: [Amel] bow truster LEAKING from Alex Uster

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Alex, from what you describe, the 2 foam seals on the outside are either worn, or one, or both are missing. When moving the bow thruster UP to its final position to put the pin in place, you should have to manually pull on the wire to pull the bow thruster up enough to insert the pin.

The seal replacement on the Bow Thruster is easily done by following the instructions that I gave you titled BOW THRUSTER SERVICE by Gary Silver.pdf (this is also on the Group website at Files>Miscellaneous>BOW THRUSTER SERVICE by Gary Silver.pdf ). Also, look at all of the Bow Thruster photos in the sub folder I gave you named Small Product Photos, especially the ones titled Bow Thruster in-the-water repair. I will write up instructions on in-the-water repair and email them later today. Look at Bow Thruster Special Tool.jpg in the sub folder named Small Product Photos. Do you have this tool? If not can you make one or have one made? You will need the 8mm set screws that are 12mm long also.

Look at your spares. There are 3 Bow Thruster foam seals. The 2 "outside" seals are different from the 1 "inside" seal. I believe either the inside or the outside is made of urethane foam and the other neoprene foam, but I do not remember which. Since Amel sends them in sets the ratio is always 2:1. You will have to look very closely to see the difference. Once you see the difference be sure to separate them, so that you do not mix them up.

Doing this job in-the-water really requires two people and most importantly requires that corrosion has not caused the motor and the tube to become stuck together. If they are stuck, I believe that you will be forced to haul out.

I have added Bow Thruster In-the-Water Service.pdf to Files>Miscellaneous>. I have also added the same thing to Photos>Bow Thruster In-the-Water Service

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387


On Sun, Oct 20, 2013 at 6:42 PM, Alexandre Uster von Baar <uster@...> wrote:
 

The foam and lip seals were replaced a year ago (by Amel), is this normal they last so little time???


Alexandre

SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Seabrook, Texas, USA

--------------------------------------------
On Sun, 10/20/13, Richard03801 <richard03801@...> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel] bow truster LEAKING from Alex Uster
To: "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...>
Date: Sunday, October 20, 2013, 11:26 AM

















 









Hi it is time to replace the foam and lip
seals. You can get a set from Amel it ck this site for other
sources.  

Regards Richard
Piller
Cell 603 767
5330
On Oct 20, 2013, at 10:12, Alexandre Uster von Baar <uster@...>
wrote:
















 








I have noted more and more water in the compartment next to
the fwd head...

When I go sailing, I always "LOCK" the bow
thruster, but regardless water seems to be coming in.

Any advice? Is there some adjustment I can do to make it
tighter?

Any other solution?

I had it service by Amel Martinique last Nov.



Thanks in advance, sincerely, Alexandre

SM2K #289 NIKIMAT

Seabrook, Texas, USA







































Re: [Amel] bow truster

Lior <lior246@...>
 

dear gary and bill

i changed this part but it is still the same. i even have two spares and triad both. any other suggestion?

thanks a lot
lior



ב-20 באוק 2013, בשעה 19:54, Bozo Cinq <bozocinq@...> כתב/ה:

 

Iior,


When you are looking at the Bow Thruster unit-on the left side of the motor unit is attached the black solenoid box with the big electric wires attached. If you look further down the side to underneath this solenoid unit you should see the control box which you should be able to slide towards you out of the clip that is holding it. Once out you should be able to unplug the control unit and plug in the new one. BESURE YOU TURN OFF THE POWER TO THE BOW THRUSTER BY SHUTTING OFF THE BATTERIES before replacing the control box. Hope this helps!

Gary

Bozo Cinq
AMEL 54 - #44








On Oct 20, 2013, at 11:21 AM, Lior <lior246@...> wrote:

 

gary and bob

i have this part in the boat. can you write me where it is exactly?

thanks
lior



ב-20 באוק 2013, בשעה 15:34, Bozo Cinq <bozocinq@...> כתב/ה:

 

Loir,

BeBe is correct. To be a little more specific First I would look at what is called an electronic control Box which is located in a bracket under the solenoid. It is simply a process of unplugging the old box and replacing it with a new one. I carry a spare. I acquired the item from Side-power and the item number is ART. no. 6 12321.  I will mention that I have replaced my solenoid with bigger ones as the originals were to small for the motor so therefore if you have the originals then it may take a different control box. The item number should be on the control box.

Gary

Bozo Cinq
AMEL 54 - #44








On Oct 20, 2013, at 7:47 AM, "Bill & Judy Rouse" <yahoogroups@...> wrote:

 

Lior,

This will not help you much, but an electrician will probably find a fault in the control box. I have not seen the controls, but I am sure that one solenoid is not working. It is very unlikely that it is anything else. So start there and save some time. If you are coming to Gocek, I know that Emek Marine has parts for the 54 bow thruster and can help you. 

Contact for Emek is:
Riza Cagdas CAKIR 
Chief Operating Officer
EMEK MARIN LTD.STI
Iskele Mah 62B 48310 Gocek\Mugla\TURKEY
Tel:+90 252 645 2468
Fax:+90 252 645 2899
cagdas"at"emekmarin.com
www.emekmarin.com


On Sun, Oct 20, 2013 at 10:45 AM, Lior <lior246@...> wrote:
 

hi 

my bow truster works only in the right side. when i try to use the left side, it does not work... maybe can someone help me? i am in a small port in Greece...

thanks
lior, gnom 7, amel 54 #18










Re: [Amel] RE: Website Woes

Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
 

Thanks JL for your input.  The site may lack some tools however it is about a good a working site out there for a bunch of boat owners that have a prime objective to help other Amel owners work through issues for the common good.  Yahoo is yahoo and not going away anytime soon which is how this string got started. And thank you once again for your service. 

Regards
Capt Richard Piller

On Oct 20, 2013, at 17:59, <lji0041@...> wrote:

 

Hi Kent,

 

You can search messages in this group using the upper window. To the right of the Yahoo logo.

Please let me know why you cannot post messages. I can ask Yahoo, if you  have not done it yourself.


I agree that the tools that Yahoo provide are not perfect, but it is what we have so far. And it is for free.


You can find all the messages since the start of the group. Unfortunately, Yahoo does not provide a way now to export them.


I use some of my spare time to approve new members, filter messages, etc. But I cannot dedicate much more time.


I feel that we need some time to adapt to the changes. I also understand that some of you may need more, but all that I could have seen either has drawbacks or it is not for free. And I have to stand for everybody in the group.


You can count on me for the good of the group.


My best regards

JL

Group Moderator





---In amelyachtowners@..., <karkauai@...> wrote:

Hi all,
First let me say that the group webpage is now useless to me for searching messages, or even posting a new topic.  I had to post this via regular email.  We've got to do something about this before all our info is lost completely.  I'm ready to fork out some money to hire someone (preferably someone who is a member and competent to guide us and make it work) to find another way to continue our "conversations" and be able to post pics and files...even to attach a pic to a message.
 
We've talked about this for a couple of months now, is anyone actually doing anything?  I am pretty computer illiterate, but I am willing to find someone who can do this for us.  Should I just forge ahead, or should we be more formal about it...take a vote or something?
 
I think everyone would be willing to pay a reasonable fee to participate, what's reasonable?  $10 per year? $25?  What about upfront investment...$25? $50?
 
I fear that a lot of our information has already disappeared into the ether.
 
Thanks,
Kent
SM243 Kristy
Brunswick, GA, USA


Re: Cleaning the fresh water tanks

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Kent:  


Greetings from Liahona. 


I have cleaned and sanitized my water tanks with Clorox every year that I have owned Liahona, yet I still get those same black mold like spots that appear to be a little mound of solid material about 1 cm in diameter and when removed they leave a black base that defies removal.  I have cleaned the tanks as best I can, sanitized them and have decided to live in harmony with whatever type of creature this is.  No amount of cleaning has produced a satisfactory result and I haven't noticed any health issues in 12 years of ownership.  When I sanitize my system I do fill the tanks to the very top and then try to go sailing to allow the treated water to slosh into all nooks and crannies etc.  


I have had good luck on other mold areas with  Spray Nine.  It is very effective at removing and preventing molds for a period of time in my rubber scuppers at the rub rail.  It is a proprietary product available at West Marine etc, and I have not tried it in the water system for fear of toxicity.  Might be worth a spot treatment trial and if it works seeking more information from the manufacturer about use in water systems. 


Great job of posting lots of information for others.  


All the best, 


Gary Silver

s/v Liahona

Amel SM 335   on the hard in Jolly Harbor Antigua



---In amelyachtowners@..., <sammie.whammie@...> wrote:

Vinegar then baking soda then flush with water.
.


On Saturday, October 19, 2013 1:40 PM, Kent Robertson <karkauai@...> wrote:
 
Thanks, Stephanie, I'll try anything at this point.
Kent


From: Stephanie DiBelardino <stephiedib@...>
To: "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Saturday, October 19, 2013 1:13 PM
Subject: Re: [Amel] RE: Cleaning the fresh water tanks

 
Have you tried hydrogen peroxide (min 3% solution, available in any drug store?  Spray it on full strength.  Let it work, then rinse.  If it is still there, try again.  Also Borax might work -- 1 cup to 1 gal. Water.

Good luck with this job!
Stephanie

Stephanie DiBelardino

On Oct 19, 2013, at 5:30 PM, <karkauai@...> wrote:

 
Hi again,
I'm stuck.  I've filled the tanks with 2 gallons of household bleach and let it sit overnight.  I've brushed with a stiff brush on a pole.  At Bill's suggestion,  I've purchased an 1800psi pressure and spent an hour on the middle tank.  There are still numerous globs of mold adhered to the walls of the tank.  If I can reach them I can knock the bulk of a glob off with my fingernail, but it still leaves a black spot and blacker ring that I can't knock off with the pressure sprayer.

Sooo, anyone have any ideas about what else I can do?  How much bleach is enough?  How much is too much?

Thanks for any and all suggestions.
Kent
SM243 Kristy
Brunswick GA USA


---In amelyachtowners@..., <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Hi again, gang.
I'm cleaning my fresh water tanks for the first time, don't know if the previous owner ever did it.  I've accessed the center tank (under the galley sole) and the aft tank (under the galley fridge).  There are a fair amount of mildew/mold spots that are tightly adhered to the inside of the tank, and after filling the tank with a fairly potent bleach mixture I'm still finding it impossible to get it cleaned off.  Is there any kind of chemical that can be used other than bleach that would work better and be safe?  Given the difficult access and impossibility of getting good pressure with a stiff brush, I'm running out of ideas.
 
I tried to access old files and photos (used Bill's suggestions) and can't seem to get them.  Also still can't reply to an existing thread (nothing happens when I click on "reply")
 
Thanks for any suggestions.
Kent
SM243 Kristy
Brunswick, GA, USA





Re: Website Woes

lji0041@...
 

Hi Kent,

 

You can search messages in this group using the upper window. To the right of the Yahoo logo.

Please let me know why you cannot post messages. I can ask Yahoo, if you  have not done it yourself.


I agree that the tools that Yahoo provide are not perfect, but it is what we have so far. And it is for free.


You can find all the messages since the start of the group. Unfortunately, Yahoo does not provide a way now to export them.


I use some of my spare time to approve new members, filter messages, etc. But I cannot dedicate much more time.


I feel that we need some time to adapt to the changes. I also understand that some of you may need more, but all that I could have seen either has drawbacks or it is not for free. And I have to stand for everybody in the group.


You can count on me for the good of the group.


My best regards

JL

Group Moderator





---In amelyachtowners@..., <karkauai@...> wrote:

Hi all,
First let me say that the group webpage is now useless to me for searching messages, or even posting a new topic.  I had to post this via regular email.  We've got to do something about this before all our info is lost completely.  I'm ready to fork out some money to hire someone (preferably someone who is a member and competent to guide us and make it work) to find another way to continue our "conversations" and be able to post pics and files...even to attach a pic to a message.
 
We've talked about this for a couple of months now, is anyone actually doing anything?  I am pretty computer illiterate, but I am willing to find someone who can do this for us.  Should I just forge ahead, or should we be more formal about it...take a vote or something?
 
I think everyone would be willing to pay a reasonable fee to participate, what's reasonable?  $10 per year? $25?  What about upfront investment...$25? $50?
 
I fear that a lot of our information has already disappeared into the ether.
 
Thanks,
Kent
SM243 Kristy
Brunswick, GA, USA


Sirius sat. radio antennas

lji0041@...
 

On behalf of Mike Wiggings:

 I seem to remember that there was discussion , some time ago, on
reception on Sirius satellite radios in the Caribbean. I am cruising
in The Virgin Islands area which is at the edge of the Sirius Sat.
Footprint and I have had poor to non existent reception.
I wonder if anyone has had success with a  different antenna than the
standard issue car model.

Mike Wiggins S/V PAPAGENO Amel Euros 39 (and you thought Mangos were old)


Re: [Amel] bow truster LEAKING from Alex Uster

bobparry1947
 

Sorry. I forgot to mention that you should be able to buy them from most places that sell seals. You don't have to get them from Amel at some inflated cost plus freight.
Bob and Ann Parry
SM#33 "Nowornot"

---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Alexandre Uster von Baar <uster@...>
Date: Mon, Oct 21, 2013 at 12:12 AM
Subject: [Amel] bow truster LEAKING from Alex Uster
To: amelyachtowners@...


 


I have noted more and more water in the compartment next to the fwd head...
When I go sailing, I always "LOCK" the bow thruster, but regardless water seems to be coming in.
Any advice? Is there some adjustment I can do to make it tighter?
Any other solution?
I had it service by Amel Martinique last Nov.

Thanks in advance, sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Seabrook, Texas, USA