Thanks to all for your suggestions.  I've left the boat for a week with a gallon of household bleach in a full tank, and will return to drain and rinse and try the vinegar and/or peroxide.  I may try the Spray 9 on selected spots if those don't work, assuming I can flush enough to remove what ever I use.

Does anyone know if peroxide would damage the membranes if a small amount was used to retard bacterial/fungal tank growth?  I've asked FilmTec but haven't received a reply yet.

Mark at Great Water suggested I use a small amount of chlorine in the tank to retard growth, and then run that thru a charcoal filter before flushing, changing the filter once every 6-12 months.  Another company suggested that I put a UV treatment system between the membranes and the tank to further sterilize the water as it is produced.

I was shocked to see how much growth was in the tanks.  I've been checking the water for TDS and it's always checked out below 500, so have been drinking from the tank without additional filtering...it always tasted fine.  I guess you can tell that I don't want to have this mold problem again if I can help it.

Thanks,
Kent
SM243
Kristy
Brunswick, GA USA

---

From: amelliahona <no_reply@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Sunday, October 20, 2013 9:31 PM
Subject: [Amel] RE: Cleaning the fresh water tanks

 

Hi Kent:  

Greetings from Liahona. 

I have cleaned and sanitized my water tanks with Clorox every year that I have owned Liahona, yet I still get those same black mold like spots that appear to be a little mound of solid material about 1 cm in diameter and when removed they leave a black base that defies removal.  I have cleaned the tanks as best I can, sanitized them and have decided to live in harmony with whatever type of creature this is.  No amount of cleaning has produced a satisfactory result and I haven't noticed any health issues in 12 years of ownership.  When I sanitize my system I do fill the tanks to the very top and then try to go sailing to allow the treated water to slosh into all nooks and crannies etc.  

I have had good luck on other mold areas with  Spray Nine.  It is very effective at removing and preventing molds for a period of time in my rubber scuppers at the rub rail.  It is a proprietary product available at West Marine etc, and I have not tried it in the water system for fear of toxicity.  Might be worth a spot treatment trial and if it works seeking more information from the manufacturer about use in water systems. 

Great job of posting lots of information for others.  

All the best, 

Gary Silver

s/v Liahona

Amel SM 335   on the hard in Jolly Harbor Antigua

---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote:

Vinegar then baking soda then flush with water.

.

On Saturday, October 19, 2013 1:40 PM, Kent Robertson

 

Thanks, Stephanie, I'll try anything at this point.
Kent

From: Stephanie DiBelardino
To: "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Saturday, October 19, 2013 1:13 PM
Subject: Re: [Amel] RE: Cleaning the fresh water tanks

 

Have you tried hydrogen peroxide (min 3% solution, available in any drug store?  Spray it on full strength.  Let it work, then rinse.  If it is still there, try again.  Also Borax might work -- 1 cup to 1 gal. Water.

Good luck with this job!

Stephanie

Stephanie DiBelardino

On Oct 19, 2013, at 5:30 PM, <karkauai@...> wrote:

 

Hi again,

I'm stuck.  I've filled the tanks with 2 gallons of household bleach and let it sit overnight.  I've brushed with a stiff brush on a pole.  At Bill's suggestion,  I've purchased an 1800psi pressure and spent an hour on the middle tank.  There are still numerous globs of mold adhered to the walls of the tank.  If I can reach them I can knock the bulk of a glob off with my fingernail, but it still leaves a black spot and blacker ring that I can't knock off with the pressure sprayer.

Sooo, anyone have any ideas about what else I can do?  How much bleach is enough?  How much is too much?

Thanks for any and all suggestions.

Kent

SM243 Kristy

Brunswick GA USA

---In amelyachtowners@..., <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Hi again, gang.

I'm cleaning my fresh water tanks for the first time, don't know if the previous owner ever did it.  I've accessed the center tank (under the galley sole) and the aft tank (under the galley fridge).  There are a fair amount of mildew/mold spots that are tightly adhered to the inside of the tank, and after filling the tank with a fairly potent bleach mixture I'm still finding it impossible to get it cleaned off.  Is there any kind of chemical that can be used other than bleach that would work better and be safe?  Given the difficult access and impossibility of getting good pressure with a stiff brush, I'm running out of ideas.

 

I tried to access old files and photos (used Bill's suggestions) and can't seem to get them.  Also still can't reply to an existing thread (nothing happens when I click on "reply")

 

Thanks for any suggestions.

Kent

SM243 Kristy

Brunswick, GA, USA

 

I've had some doubts about the "conventional wisdom" of Amel's overly taut rigs. I don't know about other Maramu's but mine used the same size wire for the lowers as it did the cap shrouds. That makes no sense from an engineering standpoint. Carrying excessive rig tension flies in the face of well accepted principles of naval architecture and engineering. At the end of the day, an Amel is a great yacht, but how can the rigging requirements and practices be so disparate from those used by other builders? 

---In amelyachtowners@..., <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Hi Amel wants the rig to be very tight. Check the back stay near the mizzen mast as well as the head stay. Is the mast straight ( in column?)   DO NOT SAIL UNTIL WE HAVE FOUND THE PROBLEM.  It is not uncommon to see some stretch in the wire over time. All of the stays should ring when tapped with a wood hammer handle. Check the rig and mast/deck attachment on a no wind day. 

Regards 

Capt Richard Piller

Fairbanks Yacht Group llc

Cell 603 767 5330

On Oct 21, 2013, at 8:21, <drew.gaffney@...> wrote:

 

Are there any guidelines for proper tension of the forestay?  Coming across the Indian Ocean, we noticed some lateral play that seemed more than previously noted.  The main mast rigging is tight and there's no 'rake'.  The movement of the forestay chainplate is well-within the rectangular bracket surrounding it below the turnbuckle.

If there's been a discussion, please send the message number; I found nothing with various search terms.

Thanks,

Drew and Lili

SM390, lying Durban Marina

On Oct 21, 2013, at 8:21, <drew.gaffney@...> wrote:

 

Are there any guidelines for proper tension of the forestay?  Coming across the Indian Ocean, we noticed some lateral play that seemed more than previously noted.  The main mast rigging is tight and there's no 'rake'.  The movement of the forestay chainplate is well-within the rectangular bracket surrounding it below the turnbuckle.

If there's been a discussion, please send the message number; I found nothing with various search terms.

Thanks,

Drew and Lili

SM390, lying Durban Marina

 

Are there any guidelines for proper tension of the forestay?  Coming across the Indian Ocean, we noticed some lateral play that seemed more than previously noted.  The main mast rigging is tight and there's no 'rake'.  The movement of the forestay chainplate is well-within the rectangular bracket surrounding it below the turnbuckle.

If there's been a discussion, please send the message number; I found nothing with various search terms.

Thanks,

Drew and Lili

SM390, lying Durban Marina

 

Hi Stephanie,

Enio and I live most of the time in Ancona,  in the middle of Adriatic Sea: is it too far for you?

G.V.

Ornella

Santorin N° 122 Earendil, Ancona (Italy)

----Messaggio originale----
Da: stephiedib@...
Data: 19/10/2013 9.58
A: "amelyachtowners"<amelyachtowners@...>
Ogg: [Amel] Anyone near Rome?

 

Ezio and I are currently at our apt in Nettuno just SW of Rome. Are any of you receiving this e-mail nearby? If so, we would like to invite you to join us one afternoon or evening for "pranzo,". "cena," or whatever fits your schedule. Or, we have a car and can drive to meet you if you are elsewhere along the coast, between Naples and Livorno.

Fair winds!

Stephanie DiBelardino

----Messaggio originale----
Da: stephiedib@...
Data: 19/10/2013 9.58
A: "amelyachtowners"
Ogg: [Amel] Anyone near Rome?

 

Ezio and I are currently at our apt in Nettuno just SW of Rome. Are any of you receiving this e-mail nearby? If so, we would like to invite you to join us one afternoon or evening for "pranzo,". "cena," or whatever fits your schedule. Or, we have a car and can drive to meet you if you are elsewhere along the coast, between Naples and Livorno.

Fair winds!

Stephanie DiBelardino

 

Lior,

Again, I am not familiar with the exact system in a 54, but know that it works with solenoids.

It works something like this:

1. When the cockpit joy stick is pressed to port, a 24 volt low amp current is sent to the low amp side of a 24 volt PORT solenoid.
2. The low amp side of the solenoid triggers an electromagnet which when energized, closes a 24 volt high amperage switch. When this happens you should be able to hear a click if you are near the solenoid.
3. When the cockpit joy stick is pressed to starboard, the same thing happens, but to a different solenoid...the STARBOARD solenoid.

Solenoids go bad because the high amperage switching ON causes a slight burning of the contacts...the more it is used, the more burned the contacts become. The more they are burned the more resistance in the circuit until finally there is not enough current flow. I happen to really appreciate the very large over-sized tractor solenoids that Amel used on the Super Maramu solenoids, but now Amel uses an off-the-shelf bow thruster that has other advantages over the Super Maramu.

What I do not know is if the two solenoids are inside the control box, or not. I talked to another owner of a 54 and I think I remember him telling me that they are NOT inside the control box, but I am not sure.

It is possible that the joy stick is not working on one side. The way the joy stick works, in an emergency, you could replace it with two ordinary toggle switches, making sure that you do not turn them ON at the same time...in other words, one MUST be OFF, while the other is ON. If you happen to have a DPDT switch (Double Pole Double Throw)...this switch could temporarily replace the joy stick. With a voltmeter you should be able to check to see if the joy stick is working. 

Of course it is also possible that an electrical connection is loose somewhere.

And a "long-shot" is that the charge state of your batteries or the condition of your batteries is bad. For instance, you could have a short in one of the batteries in your house bank. This can cause a significant loss of "cranking amps." In this case, it is possible that one high amperage circuit will work (bow thruster in one direction) but another will not (bow thruster in the other direction). You can probably eliminate this as a cause by trying the bow thruster with a battery charger ON...either the main engine at 1,500 rpm, or the generator ON and the 100 amp battery charger ON...don't do a lot of this...just do it to check it...and let me know if your bow thruster works when the batteries are charging.

If the above does not help you get to the problem, tracing the electrical circuit is probably needed. Can you get an electrician there?

Bill

On Mon, Oct 21, 2013 at 5:58 AM, Lior <lior246@...> wrote:

 

dear gary and bill

i changed this part but it is still the same. i even have two spares and triad both. any other suggestion?

thanks a lot

lior

ב-20 באוק 2013, בשעה 19:54, Bozo Cinq <bozocinq@...> כתב/ה:

 

Iior,

When you are looking at the Bow Thruster unit-on the left side of the motor unit is attached the black solenoid box with the big electric wires attached. If you look further down the side to underneath this solenoid unit you should see the control box which you should be able to slide towards you out of the clip that is holding it. Once out you should be able to unplug the control unit and plug in the new one. BESURE YOU TURN OFF THE POWER TO THE BOW THRUSTER BY SHUTTING OFF THE BATTERIES before replacing the control box. Hope this helps!

Gary

Bozo Cinq

AMEL 54 - #44

bozocinq@...

On Oct 20, 2013, at 11:21 AM, Lior <lior246@...> wrote:

 

gary and bob

i have this part in the boat. can you write me where it is exactly?

thanks

lior

ב-20 באוק 2013, בשעה 15:34, Bozo Cinq <bozocinq@...> כתב/ה:

 

Loir,

BeBe is correct. To be a little more specific First I would look at what is called an electronic control Box which is located in a bracket under the solenoid. It is simply a process of unplugging the old box and replacing it with a new one. I carry a spare. I acquired the item from Side-power and the item number is ART. no. 6 12321.  I will mention that I have replaced my solenoid with bigger ones as the originals were to small for the motor so therefore if you have the originals then it may take a different control box. The item number should be on the control box.

Gary

Bozo Cinq

AMEL 54 - #44

bozocinq@...

On Oct 20, 2013, at 7:47 AM, "Bill & Judy Rouse" <yahoogroups@...> wrote:

 

Lior,

This will not help you much, but an electrician will probably find a fault in the control box. I have not seen the controls, but I am sure that one solenoid is not working. It is very unlikely that it is anything else. So start there and save some time. If you are coming to Gocek, I know that Emek Marine has parts for the 54 bow thruster and can help you. 

Contact for Emek is:

Riza Cagdas CAKIR 
Chief Operating Officer
EMEK MARIN LTD.STI
Iskele Mah 62B 48310 Gocek\Mugla\TURKEY
Tel:+90 252 645 2468
Fax:+90 252 645 2899
cagdas"at"emekmarin.com
www.emekmarin.com

On Sun, Oct 20, 2013 at 10:45 AM, Lior <lior246@...> wrote:

 

hi 

my bow truster works only in the right side. when i try to use the left side, it does not work... maybe can someone help me? i am in a small port in Greece...

thanks

lior, gnom 7, amel 54 #18

Reply via web post

Reply to sender

Reply to group

 

Iior,

When you are looking at the Bow Thruster unit-on the left side of the motor unit is attached the black solenoid box with the big electric wires attached. If you look further down the side to underneath this solenoid unit you should see the control box which you should be able to slide towards you out of the clip that is holding it. Once out you should be able to unplug the control unit and plug in the new one. BESURE YOU TURN OFF THE POWER TO THE BOW THRUSTER BY SHUTTING OFF THE BATTERIES before replacing the control box. Hope this helps!

Gary

Bozo Cinq

AMEL 54 - #44

bozocinq@...

On Oct 20, 2013, at 11:21 AM, Lior <lior246@...> wrote:

 

gary and bob

i have this part in the boat. can you write me where it is exactly?

thanks

lior

ב-20 באוק 2013, בשעה 15:34, Bozo Cinq <bozocinq@...> כתב/ה:

 

Loir,

BeBe is correct. To be a little more specific First I would look at what is called an electronic control Box which is located in a bracket under the solenoid. It is simply a process of unplugging the old box and replacing it with a new one. I carry a spare. I acquired the item from Side-power and the item number is ART. no. 6 12321.  I will mention that I have replaced my solenoid with bigger ones as the originals were to small for the motor so therefore if you have the originals then it may take a different control box. The item number should be on the control box.

Gary

Bozo Cinq

AMEL 54 - #44

bozocinq@...

On Oct 20, 2013, at 7:47 AM, "Bill & Judy Rouse" <yahoogroups@...> wrote:

 

Lior,

This will not help you much, but an electrician will probably find a fault in the control box. I have not seen the controls, but I am sure that one solenoid is not working. It is very unlikely that it is anything else. So start there and save some time. If you are coming to Gocek, I know that Emek Marine has parts for the 54 bow thruster and can help you. 

Contact for Emek is:

Riza Cagdas CAKIR 
Chief Operating Officer
EMEK MARIN LTD.STI
Iskele Mah 62B 48310 Gocek\Mugla\TURKEY
Tel:+90 252 645 2468
Fax:+90 252 645 2899
cagdas"at"emekmarin.com
www.emekmarin.com

On Sun, Oct 20, 2013 at 10:45 AM, Lior <lior246@...> wrote:

 

hi 

my bow truster works only in the right side. when i try to use the left side, it does not work... maybe can someone help me? i am in a small port in Greece...

thanks

lior, gnom 7, amel 54 #18

 

Hi Kent,

 

You can search messages in this group using the upper window. To the right of the Yahoo logo.

Please let me know why you cannot post messages. I can ask Yahoo, if you  have not done it yourself.

I agree that the tools that Yahoo provide are not perfect, but it is what we have so far. And it is for free.

You can find all the messages since the start of the group. Unfortunately, Yahoo does not provide a way now to export them.

I use some of my spare time to approve new members, filter messages, etc. But I cannot dedicate much more time.

I feel that we need some time to adapt to the changes. I also understand that some of you may need more, but all that I could have seen either has drawbacks or it is not for free. And I have to stand for everybody in the group.

You can count on me for the good of the group.

My best regards

JL

Group Moderator

---In amelyachtowners@..., <karkauai@...> wrote:

Hi all,

First let me say that the group webpage is now useless to me for searching messages, or even posting a new topic.  I had to post this via regular email.  We've got to do something about this before all our info is lost completely.  I'm ready to fork out some money to hire someone (preferably someone who is a member and competent to guide us and make it work) to find another way to continue our "conversations" and be able to post pics and files...even to attach a pic to a message.

 

We've talked about this for a couple of months now, is anyone actually doing anything?  I am pretty computer illiterate, but I am willing to find someone who can do this for us.  Should I just forge ahead, or should we be more formal about it...take a vote or something?

 

I think everyone would be willing to pay a reasonable fee to participate, what's reasonable?  $10 per year? $25?  What about upfront investment...$25? $50?

 

I fear that a lot of our information has already disappeared into the ether.

 

Thanks,

Kent

SM243 Kristy

Brunswick, GA, USA