Date   

Re: Water Maker End Caps

Ian Shepherd
 

I have posted a photo of the new end caps with their hose connetion in a new album named Crusader Modifications.

 

Ian Shepherd SM 414 Crusader (2003) Larnaca Cyprus 

On 29/10/2013 16:34, Bill & Judy Rouse wrote:
 
Ian,

I like your solution, although I think I would have liked it better if Emek Marine would have quoted you the end caps in stainless steel, because I think a number of us would have been interested. 

I also like your elimination of the interconnect bobbin which I always considered a weak link. I am not sure that I understand exactly what you did with the replacement of the bobbin. Can you upload some photos?

Bill
BeBe, SM, #387


On Tue, Oct 29, 2013 at 4:10 PM, Ian Shepherd <sv_freespirit@...> wrote:
Having taken my 160 l/h Dessalator membrane assembly apart, I can now
confirm that the cause of last summers leak was high pressure erosion of
the hole that the stainless cross tube fits into which connects the two
membrane in series. Despite having changed from white to black end caps,
the problem still exists.

Bill suggested that I have stainless end caps made in Gocek, but the
gentleman there stopped responding to my emails and I never got a
costing, and so I went to my excellent turner here in Larnaca. Rather
than use stainless which is not the best material for use in sea water
when starved of oxygen, he turned up two end caps in bronze. Instead of
using the Dessalator cross tube, there are now stainless screw in
fittings and a high pressure hose joining the two caps, also with
stainless fittings. (The holes are turned downwards and the tube does a
U-Bend under the end caps). I may have to replace the hose and fittings
every few years, but those parts only cost only €12.

Total cost breaks down as follows:

2 end caps in bronze including material €120

New set of O-Seals €3

Connecting hose and fittings €12

Hopefully this will put an end to repetitive water maker leaks. I am
also considering relocating the membrane unit to the vertical wall just
below the front of the gen set for easier access. Another location would
be above the gen set, but with some sort of water catchment arrangement
should a leak happen. Where Amel put the membranes in not easy to reach,
especially when bolting the membranes back in place.

Ian Shepherd SM 414 Crusader (2003) Larnaca Cyprus


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Re: [Amel] Water Maker End Caps

Ian Shepherd
 

Hi Bill,

I am out sailing tomorrow and will photograph the new end cap assembly and post. I am sure my man would be glad to make some more if anyone is interested. He is a quick worker and did a very good job. He also made the Teflon connectors for the holding tanks too.

More tomorrow.

Regards

Ian Sm 414 Crusader (2003) Larnaca Cyprus


On 29/10/2013 16:34, Bill & Judy Rouse wrote:
Ian,

I like your solution, although I think I would have liked it better if Emek Marine would have quoted you the end caps in stainless steel, because I think a number of us would have been interested.

I also like your elimination of the interconnect bobbin which I always considered a weak link. I am not sure that I understand exactly what you did with the replacement of the bobbin. Can you upload some photos?

Bill
BeBe, SM, #387


On Tue, Oct 29, 2013 at 4:10 PM, Ian Shepherd <sv_freespirit@...> wrote:
Having taken my 160 l/h Dessalator membrane assembly apart, I can now
confirm that the cause of last summers leak was high pressure erosion of
the hole that the stainless cross tube fits into which connects the two
membrane in series. Despite having changed from white to black end caps,
the problem still exists.

Bill suggested that I have stainless end caps made in Gocek, but the
gentleman there stopped responding to my emails and I never got a
costing, and so I went to my excellent turner here in Larnaca. Rather
than use stainless which is not the best material for use in sea water
when starved of oxygen, he turned up two end caps in bronze. Instead of
using the Dessalator cross tube, there are now stainless screw in
fittings and a high pressure hose joining the two caps, also with
stainless fittings. (The holes are turned downwards and the tube does a
U-Bend under the end caps). I may have to replace the hose and fittings
every few years, but those parts only cost only 12.

Total cost breaks down as follows:

2 end caps in bronze including material 120

New set of O-Seals 3

Connecting hose and fittings 12

Hopefully this will put an end to repetitive water maker leaks. I am
also considering relocating the membrane unit to the vertical wall just
below the front of the gen set for easier access. Another location would
be above the gen set, but with some sort of water catchment arrangement
should a leak happen. Where Amel put the membranes in not easy to reach,
especially when bolting the membranes back in place.

Ian Shepherd SM 414 Crusader (2003) Larnaca Cyprus


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Re: [Amel] Water Maker End Caps

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Ian,

I like your solution, although I think I would have liked it better if Emek Marine would have quoted you the end caps in stainless steel, because I think a number of us would have been interested. 

I also like your elimination of the interconnect bobbin which I always considered a weak link. I am not sure that I understand exactly what you did with the replacement of the bobbin. Can you upload some photos?

Bill
BeBe, SM, #387


On Tue, Oct 29, 2013 at 4:10 PM, Ian Shepherd <sv_freespirit@...> wrote:
Having taken my 160 l/h Dessalator membrane assembly apart, I can now
confirm that the cause of last summers leak was high pressure erosion of
the hole that the stainless cross tube fits into which connects the two
membrane in series. Despite having changed from white to black end caps,
the problem still exists.

Bill suggested that I have stainless end caps made in Gocek, but the
gentleman there stopped responding to my emails and I never got a
costing, and so I went to my excellent turner here in Larnaca. Rather
than use stainless which is not the best material for use in sea water
when starved of oxygen, he turned up two end caps in bronze. Instead of
using the Dessalator cross tube, there are now stainless screw in
fittings and a high pressure hose joining the two caps, also with
stainless fittings. (The holes are turned downwards and the tube does a
U-Bend under the end caps). I may have to replace the hose and fittings
every few years, but those parts only cost only €12.

Total cost breaks down as follows:

2 end caps in bronze including material €120

New set of O-Seals €3

Connecting hose and fittings €12

Hopefully this will put an end to repetitive water maker leaks. I am
also considering relocating the membrane unit to the vertical wall just
below the front of the gen set for easier access. Another location would
be above the gen set, but with some sort of water catchment arrangement
should a leak happen. Where Amel put the membranes in not easy to reach,
especially when bolting the membranes back in place.

Ian Shepherd SM 414 Crusader (2003) Larnaca Cyprus


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Water Maker End Caps

Ian Shepherd
 

Having taken my 160 l/h Dessalator membrane assembly apart, I can now confirm that the cause of last summers leak was high pressure erosion of the hole that the stainless cross tube fits into which connects the two membrane in series. Despite having changed from white to black end caps, the problem still exists.

Bill suggested that I have stainless end caps made in Gocek, but the gentleman there stopped responding to my emails and I never got a costing, and so I went to my excellent turner here in Larnaca. Rather than use stainless which is not the best material for use in sea water when starved of oxygen, he turned up two end caps in bronze. Instead of using the Dessalator cross tube, there are now stainless screw in fittings and a high pressure hose joining the two caps, also with stainless fittings. (The holes are turned downwards and the tube does a U-Bend under the end caps). I may have to replace the hose and fittings every few years, but those parts only cost only 12.

Total cost breaks down as follows:

2 end caps in bronze including material 120

New set of O-Seals 3

Connecting hose and fittings 12

Hopefully this will put an end to repetitive water maker leaks. I am also considering relocating the membrane unit to the vertical wall just below the front of the gen set for easier access. Another location would be above the gen set, but with some sort of water catchment arrangement should a leak happen. Where Amel put the membranes in not easy to reach, especially when bolting the membranes back in place.

Ian Shepherd SM 414 Crusader (2003) Larnaca Cyprus


Re: [Amel] Installation of High Water & Automatic Bilge pump in forward compartment

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Alex,

Looks good to me.

Bill
BeBe


On Mon, Oct 28, 2013 at 5:41 PM, Alexandre Uster von Baar <uster@...> wrote:
 

Following the recent alarming leak from my bow thruster and before I can gather the courage and time to change the foam seals, I installed a High Water alarm as well as Automatic Bilge pump in the forward compartment.

For those interested, here is how I did.

http://nikimat.com/bilge_pump_high_water_alarm_bow_thruster.html

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Seabrook, Texas, USA



Re: [Amel] Installation of High Water & Automatic Bilge pump in forward compartment

Herbert Lackner
 

in our santorin we had also problems with water in the forward compartment, the reason were not the bow thruster seals but the pump for the chain washer is leaking... 

herbert
santorin #120, kali mera


---In amelyachtowners@..., <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Tks, very clear 

Stefano on board N'EVEREST
SM185 in Bocca di Magra

Il giorno 28/ott/2013, alle ore 19:41, Alexandre Uster von Baar <uster@...> ha scritto:

 

Following the recent alarming leak from my bow thruster and before I can gather the courage and time to change the foam seals, I installed a High Water alarm as well as Automatic Bilge pump in the forward compartment.

For those interested, here is how I did.

http://nikimat.com/bilge_pump_high_water_alarm_bow_thruster.html

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Seabrook, Texas, USA


Re: [Amel] Installation of High Water & Automatic Bilge pump in forward compartment

Stefano Biffi
 

Tks, very clear 

Stefano on board N'EVEREST
SM185 in Bocca di Magra

Il giorno 28/ott/2013, alle ore 19:41, Alexandre Uster von Baar <uster@...> ha scritto:

 

Following the recent alarming leak from my bow thruster and before I can gather the courage and time to change the foam seals, I installed a High Water alarm as well as Automatic Bilge pump in the forward compartment.

For those interested, here is how I did.

http://nikimat.com/bilge_pump_high_water_alarm_bow_thruster.html

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Seabrook, Texas, USA


Re: [Amel] Installation of High Water & Automatic Bilge pump in forward compartment

Mark Erdos
 

Alexandre

 

This looks good. Don’t fret changing the seals in the bow thruster. It is not very hard. Once I did it, I was surprised how simple it was. Typical of Amel; simplistic and functional. Follow the instructions and you’ll be fine.

 

 

Best regards,

 

Mark

 

SM2K #275

www.creampuff.us

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Alexandre Uster von Baar
Sent: Monday, October 28, 2013 1:42 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel] Installation of High Water & Automatic Bilge pump in forward compartment

 

 

Following the recent alarming leak from my bow thruster and before I can gather the courage and time to change the foam seals, I installed a High Water alarm as well as Automatic Bilge pump in the forward compartment.

For those interested, here is how I did.

http://nikimat.com/bilge_pump_high_water_alarm_bow_thruster.html

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Seabrook, Texas, USA


Installation of High Water & Automatic Bilge pump in forward compartment

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Following the recent alarming leak from my bow thruster and before I can gather the courage and time to change the foam seals, I installed a High Water alarm as well as Automatic Bilge pump in the forward compartment.

For those interested, here is how I did.

http://nikimat.com/bilge_pump_high_water_alarm_bow_thruster.html

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Seabrook, Texas, USA


Re: Watertight, my foot!

karkauai
 

There is a hose that drains the chain locker to the bilge sump in the engine room. On Kristy there is a valve just aft of the chain locker under the center piece of mattress just aft of the bow thruster compartment. I leave the valve open always as there is often sea water ingress to the chain locker through the hawsepipe. In the event of a breach of the hull in the chain locker, you could close this valve to prevent that water from reaching the engine room. There is another valve just forward of the bulkhead between the forward stateroom and the salon that could also be closed to prevent chain locker water from reaching the engine room, but it would back up into the shower drain and flood the forward stateroom as well. I've found quite a lot of sea water in the chain locker after sailing into a heavy sea for several days...that's why I leave my chain locker valve open.' A"nerf" ball stuffed into the top of the hawsepipe around the chain stops most water from entering the locker, but they are particularly prone to UV deterioration and don't last very long. Kent SM243 Kristyt


Re: [Amel] RE: Watertight, my foot!

karkauai
 

I'm still not clear how water got from the forward compartment to the salon. It should be water tight at the bulkhead.  The Espar diesel heater does have a connection between the forward an salon compartments, but that is well above the waterline and couldn't convey water to the salon under your scenario.  Does anyone have an explanation?
Kent
SM243
Kristy


On Oct 26, 2013, at 6:08 PM, <gegcarter@...> wrote:

 

We know, now, about what to do with the bow thruster. Thanks. My point was more about the fact that seawater that should have been contained in a watertight compartment was not. This would have been a disaster to discover in an emergency. Ours is a SM2000


Re: Watertight, my foot!

gegcarter@...
 

Anne, I must apologise this is my first note on this site and I was writing it in a fit of pure frustration after having found all this water in the saloon. I will pay attention to the proper protocol for posting as soon as I can spend time studying the site with a computer and not this little iPhone screen. Thanks


Re: Watertight, my foot!

gegcarter@...
 

We know, now, about what to do with the bow thruster. Thanks. My point was more about the fact that seawater that should have been contained in a watertight compartment was not. This would have been a disaster to discover in an emergency. Ours is a SM2000


Re: [Amel] bow truster

Lior <lior246@...>
 

dear bill and gary

thank you very much for your help.
yes, it was the solenoid!
riza could help me.

this forum is amazing with good people  that always help.

lior



ב-21 באוק 2013, בשעה 12:25, "Bill & Judy Rouse" <yahoogroups@...> כתב/ה:

 

Lior<

1. if it is soleniod, is it posible that it works again for few times? YES, this is possible
2. i have a spare similar soleniod but it is written 12v, can i try this one? NO, your bow thruster is 24 volts and I assume that all of the controls are 12 volts
3. i thought maybe it could be the switch. there are four cabels connected. two lefe and two right. These cables are switch cables. on each side of the switch you have 2 cables connected to the switch...activating the switch causes these two cables to connect. So one set of two cables for PORT thrust and one set of two cables for STARBOARD thrust. On each side of the switch, one will be hot (+24V) with the switch in neutral, then with the switch moved either left or right, the other wire on the same side will become connected to the first wire and be hot (+24V).

If I was checking this, I would find a good 24 volt ground to connect the negative cable to the voltmeter, then checking one side at a time find the hot terminal on each side of the switch. Then move the switch to see if the switch turns on the other terminal on each side. You can also turn the power off to the switch and check continuity (connection), but that will not tell you which switch terminal is the input and which one is the output. I think that the switch is probably OK because the switch will not wear out with use like a solenoid will.

So simply stated your bow thruster has two switches that have to operate for PORT and two for STARBOARD.

The first switch for PORT will be at the joy stick in the cockpit. That switch sends 24 volts to the electromagnet inside the PORT solenoid. When the electromagnet is engaged, another switch connects inside the solenoid. This last connection will be a high amp connection with more than 100 amps flowing through the connection...that is enough amperage to weld some metals. So every time you move the joy stick to PORT inside that solenoid there is some burning at the contact points. As the burning gets worse, the contact gets worse and eventually it connects some of the time, then not all. The same thing happens to the STARBOARD solenoid when it is engaged.

Maybe you can understand why I assume that it is the solenoid?

I will be leaving for the airport in a few minutes and be off line for about 10 days. I suggest that you contact Riza at Emek Marine.

Bill
BeBe



On Mon, Oct 21, 2013 at 8:49 AM, Lior <lior246@...> wrote:
 

bill,
thanks a lot for your mail.
first, today after many tries it worked again for one or two times and then it did work again.
 i have a few questions:
1. if it is soleniod, is it posible that it works again for few times?
2. i have a spare similar soleniod but it is written 12v, can i try this one? or it will burn?
3. i thought maybe it could be the switch. there are four cabels connected. two lefe and two right.
only one left down and the right down are not connected. shel i chek volt or conection? 

thanks a lot
lior



ב-21 באוק 2013, בשעה 09:32, "Bill & Judy Rouse" <yahoogroups@...> כתב/ה:

 

Lior,

Again, I am not familiar with the exact system in a 54, but know that it works with solenoids.
It works something like this:
  1. When the cockpit joy stick is pressed to port, a 24 volt low amp current is sent to the low amp side of a 24 volt PORT solenoid.
  2. The low amp side of the solenoid triggers an electromagnet which when energized, closes a 24 volt high amperage switch. When this happens you should be able to hear a click if you are near the solenoid.
  3. When the cockpit joy stick is pressed to starboard, the same thing happens, but to a different solenoid...the STARBOARD solenoid.
Solenoids go bad because the high amperage switching ON causes a slight burning of the contacts...the more it is used, the more burned the contacts become. The more they are burned the more resistance in the circuit until finally there is not enough current flow. I happen to really appreciate the very large over-sized tractor solenoids that Amel used on the Super Maramu solenoids, but now Amel uses an off-the-shelf bow thruster that has other advantages over the Super Maramu.

What I do not know is if the two solenoids are inside the control box, or not. I talked to another owner of a 54 and I think I remember him telling me that they are NOT inside the control box, but I am not sure.

It is possible that the joy stick is not working on one side. The way the joy stick works, in an emergency, you could replace it with two ordinary toggle switches, making sure that you do not turn them ON at the same time...in other words, one MUST be OFF, while the other is ON. If you happen to have a DPDT switch (Double Pole Double Throw)...this switch could temporarily replace the joy stick. With a voltmeter you should be able to check to see if the joy stick is working. 

Of course it is also possible that an electrical connection is loose somewhere.

And a "long-shot" is that the charge state of your batteries or the condition of your batteries is bad. For instance, you could have a short in one of the batteries in your house bank. This can cause a significant loss of "cranking amps." In this case, it is possible that one high amperage circuit will work (bow thruster in one direction) but another will not (bow thruster in the other direction). You can probably eliminate this as a cause by trying the bow thruster with a battery charger ON...either the main engine at 1,500 rpm, or the generator ON and the 100 amp battery charger ON...don't do a lot of this...just do it to check it...and let me know if your bow thruster works when the batteries are charging.

If the above does not help you get to the problem, tracing the electrical circuit is probably needed. Can you get an electrician there?

Bill


On Mon, Oct 21, 2013 at 5:58 AM, Lior <lior246@...> wrote:
 

dear gary and bill

i changed this part but it is still the same. i even have two spares and triad both. any other suggestion?

thanks a lot
lior



ב-20 באוק 2013, בשעה 19:54, Bozo Cinq <bozocinq@...> כתב/ה:

 

Iior,


When you are looking at the Bow Thruster unit-on the left side of the motor unit is attached the black solenoid box with the big electric wires attached. If you look further down the side to underneath this solenoid unit you should see the control box which you should be able to slide towards you out of the clip that is holding it. Once out you should be able to unplug the control unit and plug in the new one. BESURE YOU TURN OFF THE POWER TO THE BOW THRUSTER BY SHUTTING OFF THE BATTERIES before replacing the control box. Hope this helps!

Gary

Bozo Cinq
AMEL 54 - #44








On Oct 20, 2013, at 11:21 AM, Lior <lior246@...> wrote:

 

gary and bob

i have this part in the boat. can you write me where it is exactly?

thanks
lior



ב-20 באוק 2013, בשעה 15:34, Bozo Cinq <bozocinq@...> כתב/ה:

 

Loir,

BeBe is correct. To be a little more specific First I would look at what is called an electronic control Box which is located in a bracket under the solenoid. It is simply a process of unplugging the old box and replacing it with a new one. I carry a spare. I acquired the item from Side-power and the item number is ART. no. 6 12321.  I will mention that I have replaced my solenoid with bigger ones as the originals were to small for the motor so therefore if you have the originals then it may take a different control box. The item number should be on the control box.

Gary

Bozo Cinq
AMEL 54 - #44








On Oct 20, 2013, at 7:47 AM, "Bill & Judy Rouse" <yahoogroups@...> wrote:

 

Lior,

This will not help you much, but an electrician will probably find a fault in the control box. I have not seen the controls, but I am sure that one solenoid is not working. It is very unlikely that it is anything else. So start there and save some time. If you are coming to Gocek, I know that Emek Marine has parts for the 54 bow thruster and can help you. 

Contact for Emek is:
Riza Cagdas CAKIR 
Chief Operating Officer
EMEK MARIN LTD.STI
Iskele Mah 62B 48310 Gocek\Mugla\TURKEY
Tel:+90 252 645 2468
Fax:+90 252 645 2899
cagdas"at"emekmarin.com
www.emekmarin.com


On Sun, Oct 20, 2013 at 10:45 AM, Lior <lior246@...> wrote:
 

hi 

my bow truster works only in the right side. when i try to use the left side, it does not work... maybe can someone help me? i am in a small port in Greece...

thanks
lior, gnom 7, amel 54 #18












Re: E: Re: [Amel] boomerang davits and longer passerelle/gangplank

Siviero Attilio <attilio.siviero@...>
 

Hi Herbert,

many people from Austria leave the boat in Nautec Marina in Monfalcone (email nautecmare@..., tel 0481 790416, address Via Consiglio d'Europa 36 34074 Monfalcone Go Italia), moderately priced (about 240€/month: I think that Sukosan is much more expensive, as all Croatia) and the director is from Vienna, Karl Keller (italian mobile 00 39 349 8872642).

I left Sisila there for 3 years and I made a lot of refitting: Monfalcone is the right place to do that, many qualified workers, workshops, everything for shipyards, etc.

Absolutely I am happy with my davits, the price should be updated, I think, and Mauro, the workshop that did them, should do it, but it was around 4000€ including assembly and fitting onto the boat.

Also, in Monfalcone I changed the sails and the rigging, saving a lot of money with the insurance as well. Details if you want.

Fair winds

Attilio & Maria Siviero 
Amel Santorin#84 "Sisila"


Il giorno 26/ott/2013, alle ore 10:40, <herbert@...> <herbert@...> ha scritto:

thanks attilio, kali mera is in sukosan until april.  then we are looking for an effortable place to leave her until september, if possible reachable by car from vienna (so if you know a good and not too expensive place in italy...). are you satisfied with the davits - would you install them again - and what budget is needed :-)


fair winds


herbert
santorin #120, kali mera



---In amelyachtowners@..., <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Hi Herbert,

I'll try to have the drawings from the workshop that made them. They should be in Autocad.


The workshop is in Monfalcone, near Trieste, NE Italy. They also fitted the davits.


More photos on my blog http://www.sailblogs.com/member/sisila/ http://www.sailblogs.com/member/sisila/ , part in English


Where are you based?


Attilio & Maria Siviero
Amel Santorin#84 "Sisila"



Il giorno 25/ott/2013, alle ore 12:32, herbert@... mailto:herbert@... ha scritto:



Hi Attilio and Maria,


do you have some more photos from your davits? Do you have construction plans? Are you satisfied with the solution?  We are thinking of equipping our santorin with davits, too.


thanks,


herbert


santorin #120, kali mera



---In amelyachtowners@... mailto:amelyachtowners@..., wrote:

Hi all,
finally here is (in Photos section, Album Sisila) what we didi to extend the passerella, due to increased dimensions of dinghies nowadays. I did not want to add steps to the original passerella, for the considerable amount of welding work to  be done, and also because we use the passerella as bath ladder, and it is heavy enough. So when we go back to the mooring, and we have the dinghy, we stay far enough from the pontoon and we put the dinghy on water, releasing the right boomerang davit, we install the passerella as usual, linked to the spectra rope coming from the  mizzen mast, and also linked to the right davit: this way the passerella is far more stable. Also, since sometimes the passerella has a gap from the pontoon, and it could be a problem for somebody, when this is the case we install a simple aluminum plate extension, hinged to the end of the passerella, with minimal modification to the passerella, a couple of metal eyes. If we can easily jump across the gap, we leave the extension in the lazarette. In case of bad weather and waves, to avoid night noises, we can lift the extension with a strop linked to the same davit.
This is a suggestion if somebody has the same problem we had with the passerella and boomerang davits.
Fair winds
Attilio&Maria Santorin #84 "Sisila"


---In amelyachtowners@... mailto:amelyachtowners@..., <amelyachtowners@... mailto:amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Hello Attilio and Maria,
Yes I could send a pic after my next trip to Sicily but there is not much
point as it would look just like the original and you would have to count
the steps to know. However please let me know if you think it would help.

best wishes, Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM319

-----Original Message-----
From: Attilio Siviero YAHOO
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2012 4:16 PM
To: amelyachtowners@... mailto:amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel] boomerang davits and longer passerelle/gangplank

Hi John,
since we have all the winter time now in the Med to extend the passerelle, I
think that soon or later you will be in Sicily again, thus that time please
could you take a shot and post it?
Thanks a lot

Attilio & Maria Siviero
Amel Santorin#84 "Sisila"


Il giorno 19/set/2012, alle ore 16:01, Io ha scritto:

Thanks very much for info stefano

Il giorno 19/set/2012, alle ore 15:32, "Anne and John Hollamby"
ha scritto:

Hello Stefano, Sorry, no I have not posted any pics and now cannot do so
as we are in Malta and the boat is in Marina di Ragusa, Sicily.
However there is nothing complicated about it. I just took the
passerelle to a workshop dealing in aluminium welding and told them what
I wanted, i.e. a two step extension put into the centre maintaining the
curved profile. I think that they may have inserted some short aluminium
rods or pipes inside the tubes to add strength The original steps were
put into the new centre steps and I made new ones to go at the top of
the ladder so that they do not go in the water when in use.
I hope this helps.
Best wishes, Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM2K 319

From: stefano biffi
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2012 2:22 PM
To: amelyachtowners@... mailto:amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel] boomerang davits and longer passerelle/gangplank

hi john did you post any picture of your smart/longer passerelle? I
tried to find in the web,no bingo done. thanks
stefano

N'EVEREST
SM185 in Bocca di Magra

________________________________
Da: Anne and John Hollamby 40gmail.com http://40gmail.com/>
A: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com http://40yahoogroups.com/
Inviato: Domenica 16 Settembre 2012 12:19
Oggetto: Re: [Amel] boomerang davits and longer passerelle/gangplank

Hello Attilio and Maria,
Thanks for your message. One thing I forgot to mention was that we made
a
new board to fit the longer passarelle. It is marine ply and to make it
long
enough we added another piece attached with brass hinges on the
underside
and fixed with countersunk machine screws and and nuts. Thus it folds
back
and opens up when fitted in place so it is slotted in at both ends. It
is
made non slip with two strips of white non slip adhesive tape running
the
full length We have an elastic line to hook over the board as the first
one
we made blew away one night never to be seen again.

Regards, Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM319

-----Original Message-----
From: Attilio Siviero YAHOO
Sent: Saturday, September 15, 2012 6:06 PM
To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com http://40yahoogroups.com/
Cc: Buttignol ssa
Subject: Re: [Amel] boomerang davits and longer gangplank

Hello, Anne and John, extremely grateful for the help and the very
accurate
explanation.

The matter to extend the passerella (gangplank) was already in my mind.
Also
the matter to use dyneema and a spacer, that I already got.

Also useful the suggestion to use the red line to hoist dinghy+motor,
but
normally we hoist the motor by a separate small davit on stern starboard
side. We have a 2.7m Honda dinghy and a 5hp 4-strokes Honda motor, some
30kg
weight.

Thanks a lot again, fair winds

Attilio & Maria Siviero
Amel Santorin#84 "Sisila"

Il giorno 15/set/2012, alle ore 15:06, Anne and John Hollamby
40gmail.com http://40gmail.com/> ha scritto:

Hello Attilio and Maria,
The gangplank is not really long enough for mooring stern-to possibly
because it was not updated when the tube size on inflatables was
increased
in the late eighties/nineties. The owner of SM Galaxie increased the
length
by two steps and I copied him. It is supported by what we call the red
line
which is the one attached to the mizzen mast at the spreader on a
block.
The
red line is dyneema and 8mm which is more than strong enough. The red
line
is attached to a spacer so that there are two lines going down to the
end
of
the gangplank via a piece of wood to open the gap between them. These
attach
to the gangplank on U-bolts a piece of teak which is wider than the
plank
and secured with saddle clips.
Our dinghy is a Honwav 30 and weighs 45 kg and this is secured to our
davits
on 4 part blocks with a jam cleat welded on to the davit. The davit
itself
is supported on 6 part tackles on blocks with jam cleats on the deck.
It
is
hard to hoist the dinghy on these but it becomes impossible if we want
to
hoist it with a 15 HP 2 stroke motor in place. However it is lifted
with
great ease by by using the two red lines from the gangplank and
shackling
them on to the ends of the davits which are then lowered right down to
the
the blocks on the tackle and then lifting everything on the red line
either
by winding it up by hand on the mizzen outhaul winch or, as I am in my
eighties, on the main sheet winch.
We also use the mainsheet winch to hoist the dinghy on the red line so
that
we can clean the dinghy or let it down on the aft cabin top for longer
passages or over wintering. We hope this helps!

Best wishes, Anne and John, Bali
Hai, SM2K 319

-----Original Message-----
From: Attilio Siviero YAHOO
Sent: Friday, September 14, 2012 5:47 AM
To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com http://40yahoogroups.com/
Subject: Re: [Amel] boomerang davits

Thanks Richard, not useful but encouraging ;-)

Attilio & Maria Siviero
Amel Santorin#84 "Sisila" in Monfalcone IT

Il giorno 11/set/2012, alle ore 20:34, Richard03801
40yahoo.com http://40yahoo.com/>
ha scritto:

We have those on our SM with 4:1 blocks thay work very well

Regards

Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

On Sep 10, 2012, at 12:47, Attilio Siviero YAHOO
40yahoo.com http://40yahoo.com/> wrote:

Hi all,

I am just thinking to fit on my Santorin a couple of davits
similar to
the ones made by a workshop in La Rochelle, and called Boomerang.

I have seen several SMs with those davits, and I know that also
some
Santorins has been fitted with same davits, obviously adapted to
the
different size of the stern.

Now I would like to know for a 2.7m tender (Honda) which tackles
(with
triple blocks: we are getting old...) are normally used for these
davits? I think that a tackle with blocks of 45mm dia, and 10mm
rope
(working load of the blocks 450kg) should be sufficient.
Naturally,
one
triple block should be with cam-cleat.

And how long is the tackle completely closed. This is to position
correctly the holding shackle.

If anybody with a SM or a Santorin has these davits, maybe he can
give
me this info/opinion?

Thanks for an answer

Attilio & Maria Siviero
Amel Santorin#84 "Sisila"










[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Attilio & Maria Siviero
Amel Santorin#84 "Sisila"

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]













------------------------------------

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Re: Sails in Madeira

seafeverofcuan@...
 

You asked where to find a good sail maker in Madeira. As you have probably found out by now Catia in marina de Lorde is the font of all knowledge.

Trevor

SM425

Ireland



---In amelyachtowners@..., <seafeverofcuan@...> wrote:

Alesssandro,
                  Speak with Catia in the marina office. She will know.
                  Regards,
                  Trevor
                  SM 425
                  Ireland 


Re: [Amel] Sails in Madeira

alessandro gennai <agennai@...>
 

what's about?

Il giorno 26/ott/2013, alle ore 03:55, seafeverofcuan@... ha scritto:

 

Alesssandro,


                  Speak with Catia in the marina office. She will know.
                  Regards,
                  Trevor
                  SM 425
                  Ireland 




Re: [Amel] RE: Fresh Water Pump

Dennis woods
 

Many thanks for that. Do you have a photo of the installation. Happy Sails. 
Dennis Woods. IL FLAUTO MAGICO sm 408


On 25 Oct 2013, at 23:58, <capt.anderson@...> wrote:

 

Here's how I solved my SM  fresh water pump problem:


I am always VERY reluctant to change anything on my SM because Amel always does everything for a good reason. But after reading of all of the many options and considerations to solve fresh water pump problems I solved my problem by using a different pump and am very, very pleased with the result.


If you're a good mechanic like many of the best advisers on this forum are then you may just as easily follow their instructions and adjust, repair or replace the "Square D" pressure switch. But after spending several frustrating hours on this I chose to go with a simpler solution.


I removed the factory A.M.F.A. pump and small 'surge-tank' and replaced it with a "Shurflo Aqua King II Premium Fresh Water Pump", Shurflo part # 4158-163-E75. Cost was about $220.00US. (You will also need Shurflo part # 244-3936 Pump Fittings/Adapters, 1⁄2" Female NPT Wing Nut to 5⁄8" Barb , Elbow Swivel Fitting, about $3.00US)


I left the Amel accumulator tank in place so the new pump does not cycle for small things like getting a drink of water.

After removing the old pump and small tank all I had to do was hook up the input and output hoses and the (+) and (-) wires. To make it so that the green "pump on" light comes on, connect small black Amel wire to the red wire that goes from the front of the new pump to the back of it.

This system provides 55 PSI and taking a shower is now just like taking one on land, with no fluctuations in pressure, and lots of it.

The pump is designed to prevent cycling so that at low demand it takes some of the output water and returns it back to the input (kind of like a 'wastegate'.) This way, although the pump does come on sooner than with the factory system, it doesn't cycle on and of very much at all. I've only had this system in place a few weeks but so far am completely satisfied and actually prefer it to the old system.

Best,
Jim
SM 384 Sirena Azul


Re: [Amel] Santorin - Autohelm Control Unit

Herbert Lackner
 

after considering pros and cons we purchased now a spx300 course computer package with the p70 control unit, serviced the rotary drive and carry the repaired autohelm 100+st7000 as spare parts.  any part of the hole system can now be replaced by a spare part if needed (except the rotary drive)

herbert
santorin #120 kali mera

 



---In amelyachtowners@..., <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Hello, yes we did change the control unit and the gyro. Overall the performance is better, quicker and take less power.
We bought the Raymarine full replacement while in France but keep the original rotary drive. When we check the gears of the rotary drive in Martinique, they where at the end of there life after more then 20 years of use, lots of wears, we replaced the origins plastics gears with new bronze gears• I now thinking of carrying a spare rotary drive unit.

JP
S/V Vanille

Envoyé de mon iPhone

Le 2013-10-23 à 07:01, <herbert@...> a écrit :

 

hi jp,


did you replace an autohelm 300 or 100 course computer with the x30? did you replace also the ST7000 control unit?  what control unit do you use now?  does the new system work better than the old one - is the gyro-sensor helpful?


what kind of problems occured with the old autopilot?


thanks, herbert


santorin 120, kali mera


---In amelyachtowners@..., <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

We cross the Antlantic last January with the original pilot.
In Martinique we install a new Raymarine X30 control and fluxgate and service the rotary drive with new gears.we than cross to Bermuda and Cheasapeak Bay.
So far all work fine.With the Amel setup those pilot don't work hard.

J-P Massicotte
Santorin #51, Vanille

Envoyé de mon iPhone

Le 2013-10-23 à 05:42, <herbert@...> a écrit :

Reply via web post Reply to sender Reply to group Start a New Topic Messages in this topic (1)


Re: E: Re: [Amel] boomerang davits and longer passerelle/gangplank

Herbert Lackner
 

thanks attilio, kali mera is in sukosan until april.  then we are looking for an effortable place to leave her until september, if possible reachable by car from vienna (so if you know a good and not too expensive place in italy...). are you satisfied with the davits - would you install them again - and what budget is needed :-)


fair winds


herbert

santorin #120, kali mera



---In amelyachtowners@..., <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Hi Herbert,

I'll try to have the drawings from the workshop that made them. They should be in Autocad.

The workshop is in Monfalcone, near Trieste, NE Italy. They also fitted the davits.

More photos on my blog http://www.sailblogs.com/member/sisila/ , part in English

Where are you based?

Attilio & Maria Siviero 
Amel Santorin#84 "Sisila"

Il giorno 25/ott/2013, alle ore 12:32, herbert@... ha scritto:


Hi Attilio and Maria,


do you have some more photos from your davits? Do you have construction plans? Are you satisfied with the solution?  We are thinking of equipping our santorin with davits, too.


thanks,


herbert


santorin #120, kali mera



---In amelyachtowners@..., <attilio.siviero@...> wrote:

Hi all,

finally here is (in Photos section, Album Sisila) what we didi to extend the passerella, due to increased dimensions of dinghies nowadays. I did not want to add steps to the original passerella, for the considerable amount of welding work to  be done, and also because we use the passerella as bath ladder, and it is heavy enough. So when we go back to the mooring, and we have the dinghy, we stay far enough from the pontoon and we put the dinghy on water, releasing the right boomerang davit, we install the passerella as usual, linked to the spectra rope coming from the  mizzen mast, and also linked to the right davit: this way the passerella is far more stable. Also, since sometimes the passerella has a gap from the pontoon, and it could be a problem for somebody, when this is the case we install a simple aluminum plate extension, hinged to the end of the passerella, with minimal modification to the passerella, a couple of metal eyes. If we can easily jump across the gap, we leave the extension in the lazarette. In case of bad weather and waves, to avoid night noises, we can lift the extension with a strop linked to the same davit.

This is a suggestion if somebody has the same problem we had with the passerella and boomerang davits.

Fair winds

Attilio&Maria Santorin #84 "Sisila"



---In amelyachtowners@..., <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Hello Attilio and Maria,
Yes I could send a pic after my next trip to Sicily but there is not much 
point as it would look just like the original and you would have to count 
the steps to know. However please let me know if you think it would help.

best wishes, Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM319

-----Original Message----- 
From: Attilio Siviero YAHOO
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2012 4:16 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel] boomerang davits and longer passerelle/gangplank

Hi John,
since we have all the winter time now in the Med to extend the passerelle, I 
think that soon or later you will be in Sicily again, thus that time please 
could you take a shot and post it?
Thanks a lot

Attilio & Maria Siviero
Amel Santorin#84 "Sisila"


Il giorno 19/set/2012, alle ore 16:01, Io <cptbiffi@...> ha scritto:

> Thanks very much for info stefano
>
> Il giorno 19/set/2012, alle ore 15:32, "Anne and John Hollamby" 
> <annejohnholl@...> ha scritto:
>
> > Hello Stefano, Sorry, no I have not posted any pics and now cannot do so 
> > as we are in Malta and the boat is in Marina di Ragusa, Sicily.
> > However there is nothing complicated about it. I just took the 
> > passerelle to a workshop dealing in aluminium welding and told them what 
> > I wanted, i.e. a two step extension put into the centre maintaining the 
> > curved profile. I think that they may have inserted some short aluminium 
> > rods or pipes inside the tubes to add strength The original steps were 
> > put into the new centre steps and I made new ones to go at the top of 
> > the ladder so that they do not go in the water when in use.
> > I hope this helps.
> > Best wishes, Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM2K 319
> >
> > From: stefano biffi
> > Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2012 2:22 PM
> > To: amelyachtowners@...
> > Subject: Re: [Amel] boomerang davits and longer passerelle/gangplank
> >
> > hi john did you post any picture of your smart/longer passerelle? I 
> > tried to find in the web,no bingo done. thanks
> > stefano
> >
> > N'EVEREST
> > SM185 in Bocca di Magra
> >
> > ________________________________
> > Da: Anne and John Hollamby <mailto:annejohnholl%40gmail.com>
> > A: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
> > Inviato: Domenica 16 Settembre 2012 12:19
> > Oggetto: Re: [Amel] boomerang davits and longer passerelle/gangplank
> >
> > Hello Attilio and Maria,
> > Thanks for your message. One thing I forgot to mention was that we made 
> > a
> > new board to fit the longer passarelle. It is marine ply and to make it 
> > long
> > enough we added another piece attached with brass hinges on the 
> > underside
> > and fixed with countersunk machine screws and and nuts. Thus it folds 
> > back
> > and opens up when fitted in place so it is slotted in at both ends. It 
> > is
> > made non slip with two strips of white non slip adhesive tape running 
> > the
> > full length We have an elastic line to hook over the board as the first 
> > one
> > we made blew away one night never to be seen again.
> >
> > Regards, Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM319
> >
> > -----Original Message----- 
> > From: Attilio Siviero YAHOO
> > Sent: Saturday, September 15, 2012 6:06 PM
> > To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
> > Cc: Buttignol ssa
> > Subject: Re: [Amel] boomerang davits and longer gangplank
> >
> > Hello, Anne and John, extremely grateful for the help and the very 
> > accurate
> > explanation.
> >
> > The matter to extend the passerella (gangplank) was already in my mind. 
> > Also
> > the matter to use dyneema and a spacer, that I already got.
> >
> > Also useful the suggestion to use the red line to hoist dinghy+motor, 
> > but
> > normally we hoist the motor by a separate small davit on stern starboard
> > side. We have a 2.7m Honda dinghy and a 5hp 4-strokes Honda motor, some 
> > 30kg
> > weight.
> >
> > Thanks a lot again, fair winds
> >
> > Attilio & Maria Siviero
> > Amel Santorin#84 "Sisila"
> >
> > Il giorno 15/set/2012, alle ore 15:06, Anne and John Hollamby
> > <mailto:annejohnholl%40gmail.com> ha scritto:
> >
> > > Hello Attilio and Maria,
> > > The gangplank is not really long enough for mooring stern-to possibly
> > > because it was not updated when the tube size on inflatables was 
> > > increased
> > > in the late eighties/nineties. The owner of SM Galaxie increased the
> > > length
> > > by two steps and I copied him. It is supported by what we call the red
> > > line
> > > which is the one attached to the mizzen mast at the spreader on a 
> > > block.
> > > The
> > > red line is dyneema and 8mm which is more than strong enough. The red 
> > > line
> > > is attached to a spacer so that there are two lines going down to the 
> > > end
> > > of
> > > the gangplank via a piece of wood to open the gap between them. These
> > > attach
> > > to the gangplank on U-bolts a piece of teak which is wider than the 
> > > plank
> > > and secured with saddle clips.
> > > Our dinghy is a Honwav 30 and weighs 45 kg and this is secured to our
> > > davits
> > > on 4 part blocks with a jam cleat welded on to the davit. The davit 
> > > itself
> > > is supported on 6 part tackles on blocks with jam cleats on the deck. 
> > > It
> > > is
> > > hard to hoist the dinghy on these but it becomes impossible if we want 
> > > to
> > > hoist it with a 15 HP 2 stroke motor in place. However it is lifted 
> > > with
> > > great ease by by using the two red lines from the gangplank and 
> > > shackling
> > > them on to the ends of the davits which are then lowered right down to 
> > > the
> > > the blocks on the tackle and then lifting everything on the red line
> > > either
> > > by winding it up by hand on the mizzen outhaul winch or, as I am in my
> > > eighties, on the main sheet winch.
> > > We also use the mainsheet winch to hoist the dinghy on the red line so
> > > that
> > > we can clean the dinghy or let it down on the aft cabin top for longer
> > > passages or over wintering. We hope this helps!
> > >
> > > Best wishes, Anne and John, Bali
> > > Hai, SM2K 319
> > >
> > > -----Original Message----- 
> > > From: Attilio Siviero YAHOO
> > > Sent: Friday, September 14, 2012 5:47 AM
> > > To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
> > > Subject: Re: [Amel] boomerang davits
> > >
> > > Thanks Richard, not useful but encouraging ;-)
> > >
> > > Attilio & Maria Siviero
> > > Amel Santorin#84 "Sisila" in Monfalcone IT
> > >
> > > Il giorno 11/set/2012, alle ore 20:34, Richard03801
> > > <mailto:richard03801%40yahoo.com>
> > > ha scritto:
> > >
> > > > We have those on our SM with 4:1 blocks thay work very well
> > > >
> > > > Regards
> > > >
> > > > Richard Piller
> > > >
> > > > Cell 603 767 5330
> > > >
> > > > On Sep 10, 2012, at 12:47, Attilio Siviero YAHOO
> > > > <mailto:attilio.siviero%40yahoo.com> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > Hi all,
> > > > >
> > > > > I am just thinking to fit on my Santorin a couple of davits 
> > > > > similar to
> > > > > the ones made by a workshop in La Rochelle, and called Boomerang.
> > > > >
> > > > > I have seen several SMs with those davits, and I know that also 
> > > > > some
> > > > > Santorins has been fitted with same davits, obviously adapted to 
> > > > > the
> > > > > different size of the stern.
> > > > >
> > > > > Now I would like to know for a 2.7m tender (Honda) which tackles 
> > > > > (with
> > > > > triple blocks: we are getting old...) are normally used for these
> > > > > davits? I think that a tackle with blocks of 45mm dia, and 10mm 
> > > > > rope
> > > > > (working load of the blocks 450kg) should be sufficient. 
> > > > > Naturally,
> > > > > one
> > > > > triple block should be with cam-cleat.
> > > > >
> > > > > And how long is the tackle completely closed. This is to position
> > > > > correctly the holding shackle.
> > > > >
> > > > > If anybody with a SM or a Santorin has these davits, maybe he can 
> > > > > give
> > > > > me this info/opinion?
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks for an answer
> > > > >
> > > > > Attilio & Maria Siviero
> > > > > Amel Santorin#84 "Sisila"
> > > > >
> > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > Attilio & Maria Siviero
> > > Amel Santorin#84 "Sisila"
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> > > ------------------------------------
> > >
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------

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