Date   

Painting Deck

Jochen Hofmann <jochen@...>
 

Hi fellow Amel sailors.
Is there really no one among us all who has a suggestion how to solve
my problem (posted a question re subject about a week ago) ?

Fair winds,

Jochen


24 volt dinghy pump

John and Anne on Bali Hai <hollamby@...>
 

For those whose schoolboy French was not up to Amels comment
"bricolage" the proprietor of my local French restaurant tells me it
means DIY or
"Do it Yourself" in UK English.
Seems appropriate!

Regards from Malta, John Hollamby, Bal Hai SM 319


Does your boat feature a "ROLL BAR " anchor??

Alain dHYLAS
 

ROLL BAR:


We can observe now, coming on the market, a handful of « new
anchors » featuring a « roll bar » at the back part of the
fluke..

This design is not new !.. already patented by Peter BRUCE more than
30 years ago, and popularized by the German "Bügel"
anchor.. (Bügel in German means "roll bar").

In addition to the "Bügel", the new comers in the market
are
- The Sarca anchor
- The Manson "Supreme"
- The NZ "Rocna"

An soon some others!.. who find more easy to copy existing products
than spending time and money to design new improved designs..

BUT? did you ask yourself, the reason of this CUMBERSOME APPENDAGE??

- One clear explanation is found in one of the web page of one
of these manufacturers:

"The roll-bar serves one main purpose: it ensures the anchor will
adopt the correct setting attitude, which is loosely described as
being on its side with the complete anchor weight supported between
the skids, the end of the shank, and the tip of the blade.
As well as ensuring that the anchor will always achieve the correct
orientation, the roll-bar means that the toe does not need to be
weighted with extra lead or cast iron."

But the main reason is not clearly explained:
- all these "new" anchors are "BADLY BALANCED" which
means that, as there is not enough weight on the anchor tip (or toe)
and much too much weight on the back portion of the blade, they
absolutely need a "roll bar" to adopt the correct setting
attitude..

On the opposite of the previous statement, the anchor tip NEED to be
weighted, as weight on the tip is one of the two criteria to ensure
a good penetration. (the second one is the right penetrating angle)

As there is not enough weight on the tip (about only 16% of the
total anchor weight) and too much weight on the back part of the
blade (or fluke), the only way to achieve the correct orientation is
to use a "roll bar".. but, if this appendage will solve this
question, it also add some more weight, again at the worse place, at
the back part of the blade.. and not on the toe of the anchor!..

Peaceful anchoring..

Alain


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] 24 volt dinghy pump

Eric Freedman
 

Hi,

I found that the reason my dinghy pump was not working is that the switch
corroded.

I just soldered it permanently on and it has worked fine for some time.

Fair winds,

Eric

Sm 376 kimberlite



_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of John and Anne on Bali
Hai
Sent: Thursday, June 16, 2005 5:33 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] 24 volt dinghy pump



Hello again,
It seems unlikely that both of the 12 volt pumps became defective
uinless they went for a swim. You could therefore separate them and if
one still works on 12 volts use that. You could get 12 volts at the
charttable or get a swtchmode converter 24-12 volts. This would
certainly be cheaper and just as good as buying two new pumps for
£140 !

Regards John Bali Hai, SM319






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24 volt dinghy pump

John and Anne on Bali Hai <hollamby@...>
 

Hello again,
It seems unlikely that both of the 12 volt pumps became defective
uinless they went for a swim. You could therefore separate them and if
one still works on 12 volts use that. You could get 12 volts at the
charttable or get a swtchmode converter 24-12 volts. This would
certainly be cheaper and just as good as buying two new pumps for
£140 !

Regards John Bali Hai, SM319


SM 2000 for sale

syhanaleism <syhanaleism@...>
 

Year 99, # 266. - This boat has been well taken care of and is very
clean. - New sails (jib and main), new batteries, many extras, lots of
spare parts, a complete set of tools, a well structured documentation
and an updated log sheet for every serviceable part make her a
reliable option for safe, long range, blue water cruising in great
comfort. - Fully equipped, she is ready to sail anywhere. - Present
location: Florida. - Price US$ 435'000.-- (no VAT paid in the EC)
Please ask for more details.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Client looking for Amel Mango

Randy Kilmon <drifter01us@...>
 

Hi Derek,
He doesn't REALLY want a Mango, as they are much
slower than a SM 2000. Also, nowhere near as many
advanced systems.
So, sell him "Drifter"!! I have just opened up my
broker to co-op arrangements, so plenty of commission
there for you.
If your customer insists on a Mango, I know of one
stored for the hurricane season in the Caribbean. It's
owned by a friend of mine and is in excellent
condition. My friend wasn't planning on selling his
Mango until after next season, but he might be
interested. I'll give you his e-mail address after I
check with him.
(But, we're leaving tomorrow for a little trip. Back
here about the 21st.)
Cheers,
Randy

--- Derek jarvis <sailorman522000@yahoo.com> wrote:

Ahoy
I have a client looking for an Amel Mango in good
condition.He wants the furling main version.
He would prefer a boat on the west coast or Mexico
but would be open to an east coast Amel as well.
I can be contacted at 954-761-1122 or
derek@bollmanyachts.com
Cheers Derek

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
protection around
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[Non-text portions of this message have been
removed]




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Client looking for Amel Mango

Derek jarvis <sailorman522000@...>
 

Ahoy
I have a client looking for an Amel Mango in good condition.He wants the furling main version.
He would prefer a boat on the west coast or Mexico but would be open to an east coast Amel as well.
I can be contacted at 954-761-1122 or derek@bollmanyachts.com
Cheers Derek

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow Thruster Prop Replacement

Eric Freedman
 

Charlie,

I just used a big black magic marker and marked the aft end with a line.

Fair winds,

Eric

Sm 376



_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of svmalaika@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 14, 2005 2:51 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow Thruster Prop Replacement



Eric,

I agree orientation is important. I always fit the tool so the hole where
the
line is secured is visible.

Charlie







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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow Thruster Prop Replacement

svmalaika@...
 

Eric,

I agree orientation is important. I always fit the tool so the hole where the
line is secured is visible.

Charlie


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow Thruster Prop Replacement

Eric Freedman
 

Mark,

It is also good to mark the amel tool at its aft end so when you bring the
thruster back into the boat you will be able to align it.

Fair winds,

Eric

SM 376



_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of svmalaika@aol.com
Sent: Monday, June 13, 2005 6:18 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow Thruster Prop Replacement



Mark (and Others),

The AMEL supplied tool is very easy to use. Here is how I have done it six
times, twice on our boat and four times on other AMELs we've met.

1) Secure the bow thrust shaft by placing the hose clamp around the shaft
about 5 cm (2 inches) below where the shaft connects to the motor.

2) Remove the collar (if fitted) around the base of the motor and remove the

four screws that secure the shaft to the motor base. This will free the
shaft
to slide down until it is held by the hose clamp (important) fitted in 1
above.

3) Insert the AMEL tool into the shaft and secure it with the two screws
provided Make sure the screws are set in the two holes in the tool.

4) Wrap plastic electrical tape around the space between the tool and the
shaft to prevent salt water from entering the shaft.

5. Secure the end of the line on the AMEL tool, loosen the hose clamp and
slowly lower the bow thruster assembly into the water.

6) Using a boat hook on deck snag the line and bring the bow thruster prop
assembly on board.

7) Replace the prop as previously described (if you need details let me
know).

8) While the unit is on deck it is a good idea to drain the oil by inverting

the unit (after removing the tape and tool) and replacing it with SEA 90W
gear
oil.

9) Refit the tool, tape and lower it into the water.

10) Haul it up from inside, check orientation and reset the hose clamp (so
you don't lose the unit)

11) Now the only hard part. Fit the shaft into the base of the motor so the
spline fits and the unit can b secured by the four secures. Replace the
collar
and test.

Good luck,
Charlie
S/V MALAIKA II
Barcelona, SPAIN







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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow Thruster Prop Replacement

Mark Pitt
 

I have the bow thruster replacement tool but have not had
the occasion to use it. If I did needto use it, I am not sure that
I know how to. The English translation of the instructions that
came with it are very difficult to follow. I would greatly appreciate
it if someone could supply a more clearly worded set of instructions,

Mark
SM #419 Sabbatical III

eric wrote:

Using the amel tool it takes about an hour and a half.

My problem with changing the prop under water was that the stainless pin had
twisted into the holder and had to be cut out of the plastic- when I removed
the thruster to the deck it was a very simple job.

Fair winds,

Eric

Sm 376 Kimberlite.



_____
From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of rossirossix4
Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2005 2:42 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow Thruster Prop Replacement



I've lost my bow thruster prop. Does anyone have experience in
removing the bow thruster foot or replacing the prop without taking
the boat out of the water? I see that amel sells a kit for doing
this. Is it worth getting (vs paying for a haul). I read a comment
somewhere that it was hard to do. I'm trying to decide if I should
haul it (I just put it in) or wait for the special device from Amel.

Also, can someone give me detailed instructions on replacing the
prop? Seems like removing the screws, if they have sheared off, could
be a problem.

Thanks.

Bob





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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow Thruster Prop Replacement

svmalaika@...
 

Mark (and Others),

The AMEL supplied tool is very easy to use. Here is how I have done it six
times, twice on our boat and four times on other AMELs we've met.

1) Secure the bow thrust shaft by placing the hose clamp around the shaft
about 5 cm (2 inches) below where the shaft connects to the motor.

2) Remove the collar (if fitted) around the base of the motor and remove the
four screws that secure the shaft to the motor base. This will free the shaft
to slide down until it is held by the hose clamp (important) fitted in 1 above.

3) Insert the AMEL tool into the shaft and secure it with the two screws
provided Make sure the screws are set in the two holes in the tool.

4) Wrap plastic electrical tape around the space between the tool and the
shaft to prevent salt water from entering the shaft.

5. Secure the end of the line on the AMEL tool, loosen the hose clamp and
slowly lower the bow thruster assembly into the water.

6) Using a boat hook on deck snag the line and bring the bow thruster prop
assembly on board.

7) Replace the prop as previously described (if you need details let me know).

8) While the unit is on deck it is a good idea to drain the oil by inverting
the unit (after removing the tape and tool) and replacing it with SEA 90W gear
oil.

9) Refit the tool, tape and lower it into the water.

10) Haul it up from inside, check orientation and reset the hose clamp (so
you don't lose the unit)

11) Now the only hard part. Fit the shaft into the base of the motor so the
spline fits and the unit can b secured by the four secures. Replace the collar
and test.

Good luck,
Charlie
S/V MALAIKA II
Barcelona, SPAIN


Help please !!! Painting Deck ??

Jochen Hofmann <jochen@...>
 

Hello fellow Amel owners.

Our Maramu #143 launched in 1984 has a very "tired" Gelcoat by now -
especially in the white antislip areas. She has recently received a
full Awlgrip painting for the hull and superstructures, and she looks
almost like new now if it was not for the deck. The white antislip
deck starts to develop very small black holes by now and I am sure I
have to do something about that (the "false teak" areas are still in
reasonably goot shape so I follow Amel's suggestion there and will not
paint). However I have seen lots of bad to very bad solutions for this
problem on other boats (including some Maramus and Sharkys). Does
anyone have a GOOD solution to this ?

Since I am even starting to have arguments with my wife (and perfect
mate) over the issue I would really appreciate your opinions.

PS the boat is in southern Turkey so lots of heat and UV.

Thanks and fair winds,

Jochen Hofmann, SY Blue Song


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] 24 Volt Airpump for Dingi

Patrick Naegels <naegels@...>
 

Hi Rudy,



If there is no more 24V air pump to inflate your dinghy, you can find on the
market good 220V air pump for this use. Look at Italian manufacturers on
Google. Use it with your converter or Onan genset.



Patrick (Caramel SM#329)



_____

De : amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] De la part de rzurkirchen2003
Envoyé : dimanche 12 juin 2005 11:25
À : amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] 24 Volt Airpump for Dingi



The first thing I did,was to ask Amel in Hyeres.
They told me, that there dont supply anymore this pumps, as it is
a "bricolage".
I should look on the market, were 24 V Airpumps should existe. (
other amelowners seems to be buying those). I could not get an
adress so far from anyone, neither found I this feature in the
internet.



-- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Jerome Le Conte" <JLC@N...>
wrote:
Why don't you ask Amel ?
----- Original Message -----
From: "rzurkirchen2003" <r.zurkirchen@v...>
To: <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, June 06, 2005 6:03 PM
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] 24 Volt Airpump for Dingi


Hi to all,
is there anyone who has a suplyer adress for 24 Volt Dingipump,
The
one Amel delivered, is now out of order.
Thanks for Infos
Rudy
SAMANTHA SM#407






Yahoo! Groups Links










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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] 24 Volt Airpump for Dingi

r.zurkirchen
 

The first thing I did,was to ask Amel in Hyeres.
They told me, that there dont supply anymore this pumps, as it is
a "bricolage".
I should look on the market, were 24 V Airpumps should existe. (
other amelowners seems to be buying those). I could not get an
adress so far from anyone, neither found I this feature in the
internet.



-- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Jerome Le Conte" <JLC@N...>
wrote:
Why don't you ask Amel ?
----- Original Message -----
From: "rzurkirchen2003" <r.zurkirchen@v...>
To: <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, June 06, 2005 6:03 PM
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] 24 Volt Airpump for Dingi


Hi to all,
is there anyone who has a suplyer adress for 24 Volt Dingipump,
The
one Amel delivered, is now out of order.
Thanks for Infos
Rudy
SAMANTHA SM#407






Yahoo! Groups Links







Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow Thruster Prop Replacement

rossirossix4 <equinoxsolstice@...>
 

Thanks everyone, for your advice and ideas on bow-thruster
replacement without short hauling the boat--I did replace it in the
water.

Everyone's advice was valid, but I thought I would share my
experience and ideas.

I was able to drive the old pin out, using a correctly sized
Craftsman punch with small taps from a hammer and grabing the end
with a Vice-Grip and twist/pulling it out the other end. Believe it
or not, I was able to do this hanging off my dingy with my son
holding the dingy into the boat. However, a better way, and one I
had to resort to to attach the prop--was simply floating next to the
bowthruster while wearing a PFD and reaching down with both hands to
work on it. I started out with a snorkle and mask but found (perhaps
due to the opacity of Chesapeake Bay water) that floating with the
head above water was easier.

First I hauled the thruster up about 2" to make it more accessable
under water--you only need access to the hub and this helps a little.
Next, I lightly sanded the inside edge of the prop that pushes onto
the collar and lubed the inside of this area of the prop with
Lanocoat. This helped it slide on easier and allowed me to rotate
it on the hub to line-up the six holes. I tied a keeper line around
one blade of the prop. Because it tapers out larger, this secures
the pricey little guy! I also had used a small nylon string to do
the same thing with the white collar by going through one of the
threaded holes. Working with both hands, I think that the best way
to push the prop on is to grab around the thruster with the fingers
of both hands and push the prop on simultaneously with both thumbs.
Lining up the six holes in the prop with the white collar was the
toughest task for me. I found that I had to back the prop off the
hub about half way and line up the holes with the punch and then ush
it on completly. Otherwise the prop and drive rotate together and I
could not line up the holes. Because the punch was smaller than the
holes I had to work it around in a circular motion to line up one of
the holes correctly. A better guide, like a plastic pen body might
be better. Lining up the holes was by far the most difficult task--
if you are in clear water, a snorkle and mask might let you do it
visually, but not in the Chesapeake! I had my son stand above me on
the deck and lower parts down with a bucket (including the nylon
screws--one at a time.

It wasn't too bad, but I will be buying the special tool. It sounds
like it is very useful if there are any complications, and of-course
could allow you to replace a seal or chack/change the 90wt oil.
Joel told me by phone that he has the process down to about 30
minutes.

Bob
Santorin Hull#86 Brittany de la Mer



--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, eric <kimberlite@o...> wrote:
Using the amel tool it takes about an hour and a half.

My problem with changing the prop under water was that the
stainless pin had
twisted into the holder and had to be cut out of the plastic- when
I removed
the thruster to the deck it was a very simple job.

Fair winds,

Eric

Sm 376 Kimberlite.



_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of rossirossix4
Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2005 2:42 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow Thruster Prop Replacement



I've lost my bow thruster prop. Does anyone have experience in
removing the bow thruster foot or replacing the prop without
taking
the boat out of the water? I see that amel sells a kit for doing
this. Is it worth getting (vs paying for a haul). I read a
comment
somewhere that it was hard to do. I'm trying to decide if I
should
haul it (I just put it in) or wait for the special device from
Amel.

Also, can someone give me detailed instructions on replacing the
prop? Seems like removing the screws, if they have sheared off,
could
be a problem.

Thanks.

Bob





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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow Thruster Prop Replacement

Eric Freedman
 

Using the amel tool it takes about an hour and a half.

My problem with changing the prop under water was that the stainless pin had
twisted into the holder and had to be cut out of the plastic- when I removed
the thruster to the deck it was a very simple job.

Fair winds,

Eric

Sm 376 Kimberlite.



_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of rossirossix4
Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2005 2:42 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow Thruster Prop Replacement



I've lost my bow thruster prop. Does anyone have experience in
removing the bow thruster foot or replacing the prop without taking
the boat out of the water? I see that amel sells a kit for doing
this. Is it worth getting (vs paying for a haul). I read a comment
somewhere that it was hard to do. I'm trying to decide if I should
haul it (I just put it in) or wait for the special device from Amel.

Also, can someone give me detailed instructions on replacing the
prop? Seems like removing the screws, if they have sheared off, could
be a problem.

Thanks.

Bob





_____

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Re: Kirk for sale

syhanaleism <syhanaleism@...>
 

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, sm2000206 <no_reply@y...>
wrote:
Amel Kirk, 78 / 229, only one Swiss owner, Lake of Constance, teak
deck, many extras, fine condition; EUR 40'000.--; please ask for
documentation.
More details please! - Thank you!
Regards
REB


24 volt airpump for dinghy

John and Anne on Bali Hai <hollamby@...>
 

Hello Rudi,
The pump Amel supplies is a very clever adaptation which combines two
12 volt pumps wiring them in series to use 24 volts. They are made in
the UK and used to be very expensive at about £35 per pump.
They are available from sales@force4.co.uk but the bad news is that
they are now grossly overpriced at £69.85 each incl.VAT but not
postage. You would then have the problem of joining them together
Amel fashion.
I assume that you have had an technician look at the damaged one?

Good luck with the problem, Anne and John, Bali Hai,SM319