Date   

Louvered Vents

silkair@...
 

Iam trying to replace the vent on the port side just outside the cockpit. I
am having difficulties finding a replacement which will fit. Anyone have an
idea?
Mike Mango#15 Eshamy


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] pressure water system pump

sailmc@...
 

If it is a Shurflo pump, they sometimes have an internal check valve that
can become plugged with the results that you describe. They can be disassembled
and cleaned.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] pressure water system pump

svmalaika@...
 

First thing to check is the "polarity" of your electrical connection. The
pump may be running backwards! The way the internal wires in the pressure switch
box are connected can vary between pumps, so the external connection from the
old pump is not a reliable guide. Happened to me!

Regarding the old pump, you should try lubricating and moving the pressure
sensing arms and springs. Also, you can adjust the start and stop pressures to
get the range you want by loosening or tightening the adjustment nuts. Takes a
bit of time, but is not difficult.

Charlie
MALAIKA II, SM 336


pressure water system pump

Randy Kilmon <drifter01us@...>
 

Any helpful suggestions on this problem would be
greatly appreciated:

When commissioning my boat this spring, I could not
get the pressure water pump to turn off once it
reached the proper pressure.
As this was the original pump assembly, and as I had a
complete spare assembly, I decided to simply swap out
the old one and replace it (although I was pretty sure
the problem was with the pressure switch).
On the new installation, the motor runs fine, the
impeller is spinning, but the system will not develop
pressure.
As the instructions say, I filled the pump with water
before activating. However, I can take the outlet hose
off the assembly when the pump is running, and there
is no pressure. I can see the water down in the pump
but it is not moving (even though the impeller is
spinning)
Very strange!!
Any help greatly appreciated.
Randy Kilmon
SM 240 "Drifter"



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Painting Decks

rbenven44 <no_reply@...>
 

I just re-read Jochen's posting about renewing the "white non-skid deck
areas" and understand that he meant the cabin top, not the stripes on
the deck. So sorry about the previous posting.
I had a 1983 Maramu, and to reduce the heat in the back cabin, I had
the deck surface over the back cabin painted. It was originally the
same color as the decks (teak with dark brown stripes), and I had
Awlgrip paint applied, the same color as the cabin sides (ivory). The
key was to apply several VERY THIN coats of paint, in order to preserve
the non-skid properties of the deck surface. We were very pleased with
the results. The boat was sold a couple of years later (in 1996), and
is now called RESOLUTE. The current owners read this forum, so you may
ask them how well it's holding up after 9 years.
Please e-mail me if you have any questions about what we did. I
also have pictures (non-digital) that I could scan in or mail to you.

Regards, Roy


Re: Painting Deck

rbenven44 <no_reply@...>
 

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Jochen Hofmann"
<jochen@j...> wrote:
Hi fellow Amel sailors.
Is there really no one among us all who has a suggestion how to
solve
my problem (posted a question re subject about a week ago) ?

Fair winds,

Jochen
Hi Jochen,

There have been a couple of postings in the past on re-painting
the brown stripes on Amel decks. The process would also apply to the
white stripes that were used on a few boats in the '80s. Look up a
posting by Harmonie, they did a beautiful job. I'm going to try that
approach next fall. I have the "Striper" tool and the paint, all I
need is time (about 9 - 10 days, 4 hours a day, I'm told), in a nice
quiet anchorage or cheap marina.
Hope you find the posting (I remember it was about 2 years ago...)
Regards, Roy


Bow Thruster Propeller Replacement

fruehaufp <fruehaufps@...>
 

To all,

I sheared off my prop in the Welland Canal last Saturday. A piece
of discarded line wound around the prop. I was able to replace it
using a mask and snorkel. I also have an underwater light which was
helpful in lining up the screws. I wore my wetsuit without weights
that helped me float on the water. Lake Erie is still pretty cold.
We are in Buffalo visiting family and friends. We will be heading
west next week.

What is the replacement kit that I saw mentioned in other notes on
this subject?

If you plan to go through canal locks make sure your boat is well
protected. On the way up in some locks the boat was pressed against
the wall very hard. I had boat hooks to fend off but the force was
more than I could overcome. I had bags of straw, regular fenders
and four by fours (mounted vertically) on the rail.

Best regards,

Paul S. Fruehauf - SM 215 - Faraway Eyes


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Mango wiring diagram

Bernd W. Rost
 

Hi Roger, I have a wiring diagram for my Mango Nr. 58. She was built in 1986, so something could be different. But anyway. If you give me an adress i can send you a copy, in some cases i can possibly give you a help via email. For a direct contact, my email-adress is bernd.w.rost@.... I am looking for a manual for a Hurth HBW 360 2R.
Regards, Bernd

----- Original Message -----
From: Roger Banks
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Tuesday, May 17, 2005 2:38 PM
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Mango wiring diagram


Hi. Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the Mango? Mine is a 1982 and
I'm having some trouble understanding some of the bits & pieces.

Regards, Roger
Message from Roger Banks
Mobile: 0407 91 4601
Home: +61 2 6291 4601






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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Grounding

Roger Banks <roger.banks@...>
 

Thanks for this Tom. I'm still a little concerned as the copper
terminal has two DC ground straps bolted to it. Otherwise the copper
terminal has indeed the appearance of being an RF ground, being, as I
recall, a three inch copper strip which just appears out of the
gelcoat. Did you disconnect similar DC straps when you attached your RF
ground? I'm happy to do that in general as advice has changed over the
life of our boats such that you are now told to disconnect metallic
thru-hulls from each other and from the DC ground because of the risk
of galvanic corrosion occurring in marinas, where control of stray
electric currents tends to be poor and has much worsened over the
years.

I have found a photo of my boat out of the water some time ago and
there is clearly a plate on the starboard side of the skeg, although
not on the port side whereas you mentioned plates in the plural. Do you
think you have one or two?

I tend to agree that there's no sign of a lightning ground, so I'm
getting ready to install one at the next haul in September.

Regards, Roger, Mango 28
Message from Roger Banks
Mobile: 0407 91 4601
Home: +61 2 6291 4601

On 24/05/2005, at 11:10 PM, tom mcguffy wrote:

It is my understanding that the copper terminals are the RF ground and
connect the copper mesh in the hull and the two dyna plates on the
skeg. My
HF radio worked very well grounded to these terminals. There is no
lighting
protection as far as I know. My mango was hit twice.
Tom McGuffy

>From: "rogerhbanks" <roger.banks@...>
>Reply-To: amelyachtowners@...
>To: amelyachtowners@...
>Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Grounding
>Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 12:47:59 -0000
>
>For my 1982 Mango I'm trying to establish a clear set of groundings
for AC,
>DC, RF and
>lightening, following an excellent primer on the subject at
SailMail. Can
>anyone please
>advise what is the copper terminal which is located between the
transom and
>the deeper
>aft storage space in the aft cabin, or just to starboard of the
lazarette?
>Nothing is
>connected to it in my boat and it disappears into the fibreglass of
the
>hull. I'm wondering
>if might be the access to an RF ground laid into the original
fibreglass
>layers. Also, I can't
>see a lightening ground system. Can anyone help? Regards
>
>



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Re: Painting Deck

minaxi53 <no_reply@...>
 

Regarding the 'Treadmaster' product. If this is laid down with an
adhesive, how well does this work on the faux teak decks of SM's
that have the dark lines slightly below the 'Teak'? Will this lead
to bad adhesion or wavy surface?
I am not considering this yet but maybe in the future.
Bob

--

- In amelyachtowners@..., "Jose_Luis Isasi"
<jose.luis.isasi@m...> wrote:
Hi Johen,

Hereby I paste an answer from one of our mates to my questions. I
cannot offer my experience because I still have not applied this
knowledge.

Regards
Jose_Luis



I include my conversation with Joachim for the benefit of all.

Hello Jose_Luis,

regarding the deck there are different ideas to consider. My
final
decision was:

I am going to put the anti-slip material treadmaster
(http://www.tiflex.co.uk/marine/marine.html) on the side walks but
not on the cabin roofs. This was mainly due to optical reasons.
The
website has also a spanish version.



The pictures are taken from KIRK # 233 which is owned by my best
friend. He put the treadmaster on in 1989. Pictures where taken
this
year.

I did grind the original anti slip approximately 2/3 down. These
areas will be painted and an anti slip additive ( sand ! ) will be
added to the first layer of 2 component paint. The 2nd layer of
paint will partly cover the sand, that takes out the "bite of the
sand" when you sit on it.. On www.yachtpaint.com you will find a
lot
of information probably also in Spanish. VC 17 is a antifouling
paint which creates a very thin layer of paint and dries in a very
short time.

I completed the first sanding with 60 grid last wekend and will do
a
final sanding with 180 grid to all the original anti slip areas.
The
other areas wil get a final sanding with 320 grid. Right now the
temperatures are on their way down in northern Germany so it will
take probably another 4 weeks before we get proper outside
conditions.

In case you have any question please let me - or the forum- know.
I
own own my KIRK now for 2 years but my best friend owns # 233 now
for 18 years so we have a pretty good knowledge about the older
AMEL
boats.

Next whe will have to replace the old wall coverings hanging down
from the roof also a favorite AMEL item for a replacement.

Enjoy your new boat, the boats might not be good looking but
usability is very high.

Best regards from Hamburg

Joachim
----- Original Message -----
From: Isasi Jose Luis-LJI004
To: "Hans-Joachim Schröder"
Sent: Monday, April 04, 2005 9:58 AM
Subject: RE: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: hull sanding


Hello Joachim,



Thank you for your prompt answer, I was afraid you were not using
anymore this email address.

I am glad you are starting with the deck, because I will have to
do
it as well sooner or later.

I was wondering how to paint the deck without killing the antislip.

Could you elaborate on how are you going to do it?

I am not familiar with terms like treadmaster and 2k paint, or VC
17
products. I will check the web link you mention.

This my first owned boat and I think I have a lot to learn.



Vielen Dank

Jose_Luis



-----Original Message-----
From: "Hans-Joachim Schröder" [mailto:achimschro@w...]
Sent: sábado, 02 de abril de 2005 10:48
To: Isasi Jose Luis-LJI004
Subject: FW: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: hull sanding



"Hans-Joachim Schröder" <achimschro@w...> schrieb am 02.04.05
10:43:43:



Hello Jose_Luis,

congratulations to the new Amel boat. I hope you will enjoy it as
much we do enjoy the smaller version KIRK # 81 built in 1972.
Welcome to the forum for amel owners.

Sorry for writing in German. . Because I thought this message was
for a german owner I referred to German products. Those are
available in Spain check www.festool.es.

I did a complete renovation of a boat which had osmosis . For
sanding down the hull I used a FESTO ROTEX sander which a very
professional tool and fortunately comparatively heavy. In the last
I
had to sand down the underwater area of my Kirk I used 40 grid
sandpaper and the rotating mode of the machine. I removed the
complete gelcoat and checked the laminate. I should be almost free
of "White Llines" this is where the old polyester doesn't stick to
the glass mat and is therefore o good start for osmosis in the
future.

I my posting i stated that for sanding the bottom you might need
good sanding paper with 120, 180 and 240 for the finish. We have a
very smooth bottom area where we use VC 17 products. This is
because
we do some club racing and are succesfull with this "old ship".
For
the deck area you can start with 120 grid and then 240 and 320.
Please keep in mind that preparation incl. sanding, fairing and
stripping off the equipment will take almost 90 % of the total
time.
But after that you should be save for another 15 years.

This year I am renovating the deck area. Because this is the first
time after 33 years. This needs a lot of sanding of the antislip
deck areas. I am planning to cover the walking areas with
treadmaster and paint the upper deck areas with 2k paint. But this
willtake another month because I live in northern Germany where
the
current outside temparature is now at 6 degrees with a chance of
frost overnight.

If you need any further information please do not hesitate to
contact me. Your German is by far better than my non-exisiting
spanish.

Good luck and fair winds

Joachim





--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Jose_Luis Isasi"
<jose.luis.isasi@m...> wrote:

Hello Joachim,

Could you please translate into English for me?
I am very interested in your answer aber mein deutsch ist nicht
so
gut.

Vielen dank
Jose_Luis (Spain)


Hallo Martin,

wegen der Schleifmaschine kann ich nur zu einer Festo Rotex
raten.

Ich habe damit eine Osomosesanierung an einem 30qm
Unterwasserschiff
durchgeührt (kein Amel Schiff!) sowie Rumpf und Deck
geschliffen.

Für das Schleifpapier sollte man auch Festo -Brilliant-
nehmen.
Zum
abschleifen etwa 120 er für den Zwischenschliff 180er und zum
Finish
240er. Die Vorbereitungen für die Lackierung werden rd. 80%
der
Gesamtzeit betragen. Ich würde meinen, das für den Rumpf
oberhalb
der
Wasserlinie jeweils 15 Scheiben ausreichen müßten. Für den
Unterwasserteil rd. 10 Scheiben 80er und 10 Scheiben 120er je
nach
Qualitätsvorstellung.

Für weitere Fragen bitte direkte mail.

Gutes Gelingen

Joachim




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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Client looking for Amel Mango

johnabo2003 <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Randy,

I was just admiring the pictures of your boat on the drifter website.
However as there are no clear pictures of the floor, I am confused by
your remark in a previous e-mail about the floors being "wooden".

I thought that in the specification that you have, the floors were of
the blue/brown hinged fiberglass variety. Is this incorrect? Andif so
do you know the model number/year when the fiberglass floor panels
were introduced.

Is your floor the same variety of wooden floor as the 98 model?

Cheers
John Abercrombie
( potential Amel owner )
--- In amelyachtowners@..., Randy Kilmon
<drifter01us@y...> wrote:
Hi Derek,
He doesn't REALLY want a Mango, as they are much
slower than a SM 2000. Also, nowhere near as many
advanced systems.
So, sell him "Drifter"!! I have just opened up my
broker to co-op arrangements, so plenty of commission
there for you.
If your customer insists on a Mango, I know of one
stored for the hurricane season in the Caribbean. It's
owned by a friend of mine and is in excellent
condition. My friend wasn't planning on selling his
Mango until after next season, but he might be
interested. I'll give you his e-mail address after I
check with him.
(But, we're leaving tomorrow for a little trip. Back
here about the 21st.)
Cheers,
Randy

--- Derek jarvis <sailorman522000@y...> wrote:

Ahoy
I have a client looking for an Amel Mango in good
condition.He wants the furling main version.
He would prefer a boat on the west coast or Mexico
but would be open to an east coast Amel as well.
I can be contacted at 954-761-1122 or
derek@b...
Cheers Derek

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Re: Painting Deck

Jose_Luis Isasi <jose.luis.isasi@...>
 

Hi Johen,

Hereby I paste an answer from one of our mates to my questions. I
cannot offer my experience because I still have not applied this
knowledge.

Regards
Jose_Luis



I include my conversation with Joachim for the benefit of all.

Hello Jose_Luis,

regarding the deck there are different ideas to consider. My final
decision was:

I am going to put the anti-slip material treadmaster
(http://www.tiflex.co.uk/marine/marine.html) on the side walks but
not on the cabin roofs. This was mainly due to optical reasons. The
website has also a spanish version.



The pictures are taken from KIRK # 233 which is owned by my best
friend. He put the treadmaster on in 1989. Pictures where taken this
year.

I did grind the original anti slip approximately 2/3 down. These
areas will be painted and an anti slip additive ( sand ! ) will be
added to the first layer of 2 component paint. The 2nd layer of
paint will partly cover the sand, that takes out the "bite of the
sand" when you sit on it.. On www.yachtpaint.com you will find a lot
of information probably also in Spanish. VC 17 is a antifouling
paint which creates a very thin layer of paint and dries in a very
short time.

I completed the first sanding with 60 grid last wekend and will do a
final sanding with 180 grid to all the original anti slip areas. The
other areas wil get a final sanding with 320 grid. Right now the
temperatures are on their way down in northern Germany so it will
take probably another 4 weeks before we get proper outside
conditions.

In case you have any question please let me - or the forum- know. I
own own my KIRK now for 2 years but my best friend owns # 233 now
for 18 years so we have a pretty good knowledge about the older AMEL
boats.

Next whe will have to replace the old wall coverings hanging down
from the roof also a favorite AMEL item for a replacement.

Enjoy your new boat, the boats might not be good looking but
usability is very high.

Best regards from Hamburg

Joachim

----- Original Message -----
From: Isasi Jose Luis-LJI004
To: "Hans-Joachim Schröder"
Sent: Monday, April 04, 2005 9:58 AM
Subject: RE: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: hull sanding


Hello Joachim,



Thank you for your prompt answer, I was afraid you were not using
anymore this email address.

I am glad you are starting with the deck, because I will have to do
it as well sooner or later.

I was wondering how to paint the deck without killing the antislip.

Could you elaborate on how are you going to do it?

I am not familiar with terms like treadmaster and 2k paint, or VC 17
products. I will check the web link you mention.

This my first owned boat and I think I have a lot to learn.



Vielen Dank

Jose_Luis



-----Original Message-----
From: "Hans-Joachim Schröder" [mailto:achimschro@...]
Sent: sábado, 02 de abril de 2005 10:48
To: Isasi Jose Luis-LJI004
Subject: FW: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: hull sanding



"Hans-Joachim Schröder" <achimschro@...> schrieb am 02.04.05
10:43:43:



Hello Jose_Luis,

congratulations to the new Amel boat. I hope you will enjoy it as
much we do enjoy the smaller version KIRK # 81 built in 1972.
Welcome to the forum for amel owners.

Sorry for writing in German. . Because I thought this message was
for a german owner I referred to German products. Those are
available in Spain check www.festool.es.

I did a complete renovation of a boat which had osmosis . For
sanding down the hull I used a FESTO ROTEX sander which a very
professional tool and fortunately comparatively heavy. In the last I
had to sand down the underwater area of my Kirk I used 40 grid
sandpaper and the rotating mode of the machine. I removed the
complete gelcoat and checked the laminate. I should be almost free
of "White Llines" this is where the old polyester doesn't stick to
the glass mat and is therefore o good start for osmosis in the
future.

I my posting i stated that for sanding the bottom you might need
good sanding paper with 120, 180 and 240 for the finish. We have a
very smooth bottom area where we use VC 17 products. This is because
we do some club racing and are succesfull with this "old ship". For
the deck area you can start with 120 grid and then 240 and 320.
Please keep in mind that preparation incl. sanding, fairing and
stripping off the equipment will take almost 90 % of the total time.
But after that you should be save for another 15 years.

This year I am renovating the deck area. Because this is the first
time after 33 years. This needs a lot of sanding of the antislip
deck areas. I am planning to cover the walking areas with
treadmaster and paint the upper deck areas with 2k paint. But this
willtake another month because I live in northern Germany where the
current outside temparature is now at 6 degrees with a chance of
frost overnight.

If you need any further information please do not hesitate to
contact me. Your German is by far better than my non-exisiting
spanish.

Good luck and fair winds

Joachim





--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Jose_Luis Isasi"
<jose.luis.isasi@m...> wrote:

Hello Joachim,

Could you please translate into English for me?
I am very interested in your answer aber mein deutsch ist nicht so
gut.

Vielen dank
Jose_Luis (Spain)


Hallo Martin,

wegen der Schleifmaschine kann ich nur zu einer Festo Rotex
raten.

Ich habe damit eine Osomosesanierung an einem 30qm
Unterwasserschiff
durchgeührt (kein Amel Schiff!) sowie Rumpf und Deck geschliffen.

Für das Schleifpapier sollte man auch Festo -Brilliant- nehmen.
Zum
abschleifen etwa 120 er für den Zwischenschliff 180er und zum
Finish
240er. Die Vorbereitungen für die Lackierung werden rd. 80% der
Gesamtzeit betragen. Ich würde meinen, das für den Rumpf
oberhalb
der
Wasserlinie jeweils 15 Scheiben ausreichen müßten. Für den
Unterwasserteil rd. 10 Scheiben 80er und 10 Scheiben 120er je
nach
Qualitätsvorstellung.

Für weitere Fragen bitte direkte mail.

Gutes Gelingen

Joachim




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-> Help save the life of a child. Support St. Jude Children's
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Painting Deck

Jochen Hofmann <jochen@...>
 

Hi fellow Amel sailors.
Is there really no one among us all who has a suggestion how to solve
my problem (posted a question re subject about a week ago) ?

Fair winds,

Jochen


24 volt dinghy pump

John and Anne on Bali Hai <hollamby@...>
 

For those whose schoolboy French was not up to Amels comment
"bricolage" the proprietor of my local French restaurant tells me it
means DIY or
"Do it Yourself" in UK English.
Seems appropriate!

Regards from Malta, John Hollamby, Bal Hai SM 319


Does your boat feature a "ROLL BAR " anchor??

Alain dHYLAS
 

ROLL BAR:


We can observe now, coming on the market, a handful of « new
anchors » featuring a « roll bar » at the back part of the
fluke..

This design is not new !.. already patented by Peter BRUCE more than
30 years ago, and popularized by the German "Bügel"
anchor.. (Bügel in German means "roll bar").

In addition to the "Bügel", the new comers in the market
are
- The Sarca anchor
- The Manson "Supreme"
- The NZ "Rocna"

An soon some others!.. who find more easy to copy existing products
than spending time and money to design new improved designs..

BUT? did you ask yourself, the reason of this CUMBERSOME APPENDAGE??

- One clear explanation is found in one of the web page of one
of these manufacturers:

"The roll-bar serves one main purpose: it ensures the anchor will
adopt the correct setting attitude, which is loosely described as
being on its side with the complete anchor weight supported between
the skids, the end of the shank, and the tip of the blade.
As well as ensuring that the anchor will always achieve the correct
orientation, the roll-bar means that the toe does not need to be
weighted with extra lead or cast iron."

But the main reason is not clearly explained:
- all these "new" anchors are "BADLY BALANCED" which
means that, as there is not enough weight on the anchor tip (or toe)
and much too much weight on the back portion of the blade, they
absolutely need a "roll bar" to adopt the correct setting
attitude..

On the opposite of the previous statement, the anchor tip NEED to be
weighted, as weight on the tip is one of the two criteria to ensure
a good penetration. (the second one is the right penetrating angle)

As there is not enough weight on the tip (about only 16% of the
total anchor weight) and too much weight on the back part of the
blade (or fluke), the only way to achieve the correct orientation is
to use a "roll bar".. but, if this appendage will solve this
question, it also add some more weight, again at the worse place, at
the back part of the blade.. and not on the toe of the anchor!..

Peaceful anchoring..

Alain


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] 24 volt dinghy pump

eric freedman
 

Hi,

I found that the reason my dinghy pump was not working is that the switch
corroded.

I just soldered it permanently on and it has worked fine for some time.

Fair winds,

Eric

Sm 376 kimberlite



_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of John and Anne on Bali
Hai
Sent: Thursday, June 16, 2005 5:33 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] 24 volt dinghy pump



Hello again,
It seems unlikely that both of the 12 volt pumps became defective
uinless they went for a swim. You could therefore separate them and if
one still works on 12 volts use that. You could get 12 volts at the
charttable or get a swtchmode converter 24-12 volts. This would
certainly be cheaper and just as good as buying two new pumps for
£140 !

Regards John Bali Hai, SM319






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24 volt dinghy pump

John and Anne on Bali Hai <hollamby@...>
 

Hello again,
It seems unlikely that both of the 12 volt pumps became defective
uinless they went for a swim. You could therefore separate them and if
one still works on 12 volts use that. You could get 12 volts at the
charttable or get a swtchmode converter 24-12 volts. This would
certainly be cheaper and just as good as buying two new pumps for
£140 !

Regards John Bali Hai, SM319


SM 2000 for sale

syhanaleism <syhanaleism@...>
 

Year 99, # 266. - This boat has been well taken care of and is very
clean. - New sails (jib and main), new batteries, many extras, lots of
spare parts, a complete set of tools, a well structured documentation
and an updated log sheet for every serviceable part make her a
reliable option for safe, long range, blue water cruising in great
comfort. - Fully equipped, she is ready to sail anywhere. - Present
location: Florida. - Price US$ 435'000.-- (no VAT paid in the EC)
Please ask for more details.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Client looking for Amel Mango

Randy Kilmon <drifter01us@...>
 

Hi Derek,
He doesn't REALLY want a Mango, as they are much
slower than a SM 2000. Also, nowhere near as many
advanced systems.
So, sell him "Drifter"!! I have just opened up my
broker to co-op arrangements, so plenty of commission
there for you.
If your customer insists on a Mango, I know of one
stored for the hurricane season in the Caribbean. It's
owned by a friend of mine and is in excellent
condition. My friend wasn't planning on selling his
Mango until after next season, but he might be
interested. I'll give you his e-mail address after I
check with him.
(But, we're leaving tomorrow for a little trip. Back
here about the 21st.)
Cheers,
Randy

--- Derek jarvis <sailorman522000@...> wrote:

Ahoy
I have a client looking for an Amel Mango in good
condition.He wants the furling main version.
He would prefer a boat on the west coast or Mexico
but would be open to an east coast Amel as well.
I can be contacted at 954-761-1122 or
derek@...
Cheers Derek

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Client looking for Amel Mango

Derek jarvis <sailorman522000@...>
 

Ahoy
I have a client looking for an Amel Mango in good condition.He wants the furling main version.
He would prefer a boat on the west coast or Mexico but would be open to an east coast Amel as well.
I can be contacted at 954-761-1122 or derek@...
Cheers Derek

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Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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