Date   

Fw: Wearing out ring prop shaft

Anne and John Hollamby <annejohnholl@...>
 

Hello Lars.
There is some excellent advice in the files section on how to do this job. However the bronze replacement bearing from Amel is very expensive and there is, in my opinion a better solution by lining the old bearing with stainless steel. Because I find it very hard to find old messages on this site I am copying two messages to you.  I suggest that you also Google SKF Speedi-sleeve which is so thin that you can still use the same size lip seals. A replacement wearing ring will cost you about €300 and my solution with a s/s bush using the old bearing was under €100 including using an engineer to press it on. I imagine that the Speedy-sleeves would be less.
 
                   Best wishes,  Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM 319,  for sale in Malta
 

Sent: Friday, April 12, 2013 9:27 PM
Subject: [Amel] Propellor Shaft Bushing and Rotary Shaft Seals
 
 

As we've all experienced, the bronze "wearing-out bushing" (as Amel refers it) gets, well, worn out and grooved from the lip seals. Then water leaks into the oil and we see the tell-tale "chocolate milk" colored oil that says it's time to haul out and replace the seals (cheap) and the "wearing-out bushing" (typically dear in price if supplied by Amel.)
I've had two thoughts on this: switch to a harder bushing of stainless steel and/or try a new (to me) lip seal design by SKF called the Wave Seal. It has the lip in a sinusoidal pattern that spreads the wearing area on the bushing. (SKF is "the world leader in bearing technology.")
I ran this by SKF's engineering department who were most responsive. Here's what their take was on the issue:
"Craig,
My educated guess is that the seals are not an issue in this application. The problem is with the Bronze bushing that is being used as a sealing surface. Bronze is generally quite soft and might not have the required hardness of Rockwell C 30 or higher. You have a few options to solve this issue:
• You can put SKF speedi-sleeve gold on the shaft (P/N 99830). You will probably have to install multiple sleeves as you have 3 seals next to each other.
• You can replace the bronze bushing with a hardened wear sleeve for better abrasion resistance. We can offer you a custom wear sleeve if needed.
• You can plate your bushing with a harder material (Chrome, ceramic, etc) to make it wear resistant.
Essentially, the harder the shaft is, the less grooving it will see. I also suggest you to make sure that you grease pack the area between the seals to make sure that the seals not in contact with the oil are well lubricated. A lack of lubrication can cause the seal and surface to wear quicker. Finally I would arrange the seals with 2 facing the water and one facing the oil as long as there is no pressure difference.
Best regards, Jaydeep Laljani, Application Engineer, SKF USA

I wrote back and said:
"Many thanks for your analysis. Frankly, I have wondered why the manufacturer used Bronze in the first place and not stainless - they actually call it a "wearing-out bushing" (but then they do charge a lot for replacements :-).
Next month I'm returning to the boat, which is in Turkey, and I can easily have a local shop turn a new bushing in 316 Stainless (the same material as the shaft and propeller, so no electrolysis issues.) I think that would solve the problem without going to sleeves or plating.
As for the orientation of the seals, I like your suggestion of two facing the water and will do that the next time I change the seals. After all, we're really trying to keep the water out more than keeping the oil in. And, yes, indeed, I always pack the seals with a good water-proof grease and that helps, I'm sure. "

Jaydeep replied with:
"I think you might not get as much life as you want with 316 SS as it is still not up to the required hardness. If you want to go Stainless I recommend 17-4 Stainless steel which is harder. If you are going with the 316 SS I would recommend you to passivate it to improve corrosion resistance. "

So that's the story which I thought might be of interest to the group. I hauled last year and only haul every three years, plus the new seals I put on then only have 300 hours and are not yet leaking so I'll report back in 2015 when I haul again and install a new 17-4 Stainless Steel "Not Wearing-Out Bushing" with two seals facing out!

Cheers, Craig Briggs
s/v SANGARIS, 1992 Santorin #68, Didim Turkey



 


Cockpit table and seat

Anne and John Hollamby <annejohnholl@...>
 

Hello Kent, To see an alternative table go to the photos section and click on the search box to delete “search groups” and insert
SM319 Bali Hai changes. This should bring up an album of 28 pics which include those showing how I replaced the fixed helmsman chair  with a locking, swivelling one which has gas struts to make it rise and fall and move in and out.(Softrider pedestal, MTI.co.NZ). I bought two of these and changed the Nav table seat at the same time. I had got the table support from Lagun, a Swedish company and placed the backing plate to it’s mount next to the web in the centre of the cockpit locker and then reused one leaf of the old table placed off centre on the mount. On the rare occasions that we have two or four dinner guests we reuse the second leaf of the original table using the original hinge and leg. When not needed the table and its strut are removed together with the vertical strut and put on top of everything in the locker. The second leaf is stored in a hanging locker. The installation was very easy and straightforward The gas filled strut pedestal is,I believe unique and is the only one available anywhere. The details of both fittings can be seen on the web and airfreight is not very expensive compared with couriers. One of the other changes we made was to fix teak grab handles to the fixed dodger, two over the port side and one to starboard. These were secured with small bolts and self locking nuts and the bolts cut off flush to protect the awning.
 
                  Good luck,  Anne and John,  Bali Hai, SM319,  for sale in Malta


HI scott and diane

Eric Freedman
 

Hi,

I received your thumb drive and sliders.

However I do not have your mailing address.

Please mail it to me at

kimberlite@...

 

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Maramu main furler stripped gear

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Gary, to delay the inevitable service, if you haven't yet added a grease nipple to the genoa furler gearbox it would be a good idea to do that soon in the same manner as on the mainsail gearboxes.
Cheers
Danny
SM 299 Ocean Pearl
Mangonui
New Zealand

From: amelliahona
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Tuesday, 11 March 2014 3:04 PM
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Maramu main furler stripped gear
 
Richard:

There has been a lot of chatter about the outhaul and main sail furling gearboxes, but there has been very little discussion about the jib (geneoa) furling gearbox.  As mine will no doubt one day need service, I would welcome any additional information anyone might have on that larger unit. 

Sincerely, 

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000 # 335      Lying Jolly Harbour, Antiqua


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Looking for 12 batteries AUSTRALIA

Giovanni TESTA
 


Hi to all,
I have solved the batteries problem. I have purchesed n 12 Australian Century AGM 120.
May be a good compromise between cost/performance, more they fit very well .
They are waiting for me at Bundaberg. As soon as I return on board, next April, I have to install them, hopefully without negative surprise.
Than I have to check them with our standard charging system. ( 30 A +100A chargers_Power Alternator 175 A)
Thanks again to all for very appreciated support and infos.
Gianni
sv EUTIKIA SM 428
Bundaberg AUS
 
 

----- Original Message -----
From: sailormon
Sent: Monday, March 10, 2014 8:21 PM
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Looking for 12 batteries AUSTRALIA

 

We used a group 31 truck batter . It is availableeverywhere. It was an exact replacement for out batteries.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite SM 376

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of wolfgang buelow
Sent: Monday, March 10, 2014 12:54 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Looking for 12 batteries AUSTRALIA

 

Hello Giovanni,

we hav since 3,5 years the scs225 from Trojan. They fit ..

Regards

Wolfgang Buelow

ABORA

SM 405

Giovanni Testa schrieb am 10:10 Freitag, 14.Februar 2014:

 



Hi Mike and to all,

I'm looking for 12 batteries to replace old ones.

The boat is now at Bundaberg Port Marina AUS and I have a lot of problems to find 12 batteries to well place into our battery room.

More local shops don't give me prompt and professional support.

So I'm looking around ( now I'm at home, Venezia, Italy) to find or AGM ( better) or wet ( as my old ones). So please which is your opinion about TROJAN SCS 200?  Problem with their sizes( over all for hight ) ?

More please to all,  any suggestions to find here a good batteries store ( Brisbane,Bundaberg,Gladstone) ?

Thanks in advance to all

Giovanni TESTA

sv EUTIKIA SM 428

Bundaberg Port Marina

----- Original Message -----

Sent: Friday, February 14, 2014 1:41 AM

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: [Amel] Xantrex Link 10 Battery Monitor - What you really need to know

 

To add to the info from Gary Silver ref Peukert Constant, I am using Trojan SCS 200 batteries. The Peukert Constant is 2.22

Mike Gough,

SM 378

Error! Filename not specified.

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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] SM Clima 4th AC Unit in the Galley

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Thanks Gary,

Very interesting info and pictures!

Sincerely, Alexandre

SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Port Lucaya Marina, Freeport, Grand Bahama, The Bahamas


--------------------------------------------

On Mon, 3/10/14, amelliahona <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] SM Clima 4th AC Unit in the Galley
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Monday, March 10, 2014, 9:21 PM
















 









Francisco emailed me an enquiry about installing
the 4th Air Conditioning (AC) unit in the galley of my SM.
 I thought I would respond here rather than in a
personal email just in case someone else had similar
questions. 
I have had my SM in the Caribbean for 10 of the
last 13 years I have owned her.  In that warm climate,
the saloon AC simply isn't adequate.  Keeping my
wife happy was high on my priority list.  Therefore, I
purchased a Climma compact AC/Reverse Cycle Heating unit
(Climma 10EH, drop shipped from Italy to Antigua per
arrangements made with Coastal Climate Control
costalclimatecontrol.com for $3,650 US in 2006) and
installed it beneath the galley sink in the deep, virtually
un-useable bilge area (un-useable due to difficulty in
accessing the area beneath the door mounted swing out
garbage can).  Coastal Climate Control also provided
technical assistance and the "T" duct, vents, and
flex duct etc.  This has been the single best addition
I have made to the boat.  I installed an additional
pump (March 220 volt 50/60 hertz, magnetic impeller) in the
engine room for the sea water supply.  I used the sea
water manifold outlet previously used for the anchor wash
down for the supply to this pump.    I had long
ago changed over the anchor wash down pump to a fresh water
system.  The outlet for the seawater was plumbed into a
"Y" in the outflow from the desalinator's thru
hull.  The pump get's its power from the Climma AC
circuit board that comes with the AC unit.  The circuit
board control panel was mounted on the bulkhead at the aft
of the sink.  I used the "Compressor" circuit
breaker on the 220 volt AC panel for the power supply
voltage to the entire system.    The front panel
of the sink removes in its entirety with two screws and
allows access for service and installation.  There was
already a cut out in the kick panel of this panel that
provides for air return to the evaporator.  I utilized
PVC pipe and 4 inch insulated flex duct to tie into the
existing fresh air ventilation system to shoot AC air into
the quarter berth/battery compartment cabin area with a
" T" to take AC air to a vent just towards the
back of the dishwasher lid (see pictures in the Photos
Section).  One flex duct is run beneath the dish washer
then vertically in the aft inboard corner of the cupboard
area (not visible when the cupboard door is open, you have
to reach inside and aft to feel it). A second duct comes off
the "T" and runs behind the vertical fridge,
through a cutout in the fore and aft bulkhead that the fresh
water dipstick is mounted on (lower aft corner), behind the
companionway steps to a vent mounted on a block of African
Mahogany matching wood on the starboard side of the
companion way steps that properly spaces the vent to be
directed into the quarter berth.  I welded up some
damper handles that penetrate the PVC plumbing ducts and to
those I attached some circular plastic discs to act as
dampers to control direction of airflow.  I did this so
I would be able to select AC air (95% of the time in this
position) or to use air via the existing fresh air
circulation fan system.  I glassed in a marine plywood
shelf in the bilge area on which the unit sits and is bolted
down with the provided clamps.  I place some thick
rubber material beneath the unit, like Amel did, to provide
some sound dampening.   I installed the  shelf
about 1/2 inch too high and therefore had to fabricate some
spacers to raise the existing shelf that sits above the AC
unit so it wouldn't rest on the top of the compressor.
 That step would be un-necessary if I had planned
better.  My unit had condensation drain hose outlets at
both ends of the tray.  I plumbed these to run level
behind the upright fridge and "T" ed them into the
main bilge gray water drain hose that runs the length of the
boat from the forward head shower etc. On very rare
occasions, if I run the unit for a prolonged period, then
sail immediately on a starboard tack some condensate water
(a couple of cups at most) will not drain properly and end
up in the deeper part of the bilge beneath the shelf.
 I check that area often (easily done by opening the
garbage-can-door and inspecting with a flashlight) to assure
that no water is accumulating.  The sea water hoses
must be carefully position to assure that they clear all
machinery in the engine room yet line up with the ports on
the AC unit and are sealed with expansion foam to maintain
the water tight integrity of the engine room.  The
engine room/galley bulkhead in this area is double thick
with an air-space between of about 2 inches.  The
thermostat is electronic and I mounted it in the port
speaker panel above the stove and ran the wiring down from
near the 220 volt panel.  This unit has been wonderful.
 It run's on 50 or 60 hertz (even though labeled as
a 50 hertz machine.  I did have a choke on the control
circuit board burn up while within the one year warranty
period and Coastal Climate Control Fed Ex ed me a
replacement under warranty to Grenada.  I have had no
trouble since.  I purchased a half dozen of the failed
chokes for about $12 US and repaired the board so that I now
have a spare board.  The originally specified sea water
pump proved inadequate even though by all specifications it
had adequate sea water flow (perhaps the warm Caribbean sea
water was the culprit), so I replaced it with a larger pump
( March LC-3CP-MD 220 volt 50/60 hertz ).  The system
has been trouble free except as noted and cools the galley
during cooking, will freeze you out of the quarter berth,
and makes the saloon comfortable without necessarily running
the original Amel installed unit.  I would do this
install again in a heart beat.  I would guess it took
me about six 1/2 days (about 25 man hours) to complete the
install.  
I am happy to answer any additional
questions.
Sincerely, Gary S. Silver, MDs/v
LiahonaAmel SM # 335


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Maramu main furler stripped gear

Eric Freedman
 

Gary,

Have you installed grease fittings in the genoa furler?

When I first installed mine it was amazing how much grease was needed, and finally the old grease came out it was black.

I used 5 mm nylon hex bolts and use the autoprop grease fitting to grease the genoa furler and the 2 gearboxes on the Main.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite SM 376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Monday, March 10, 2014 11:05 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Maramu main furler stripped gear

 

 

Richard:

 

There has been a lot of chatter about the outhaul and main sail furling gearboxes, but there has been very little discussion about the jib (geneoa) furling gearbox.  As mine will no doubt one day need service, I would welcome any additional information anyone might have on that larger unit. 

 

Sincerely, 

 

Gary S. Silver

s/v Liahona

Amel SM 2000 # 335      Lying Jolly Harbour, Antiqua


Re: SM Clima 4th AC Unit in the Galley

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

I just was browsing and see that the Compact 10 has been changed quite a bit, including some sort of change to the condensate drain functionality that would prevent the occasional problem I have with condensate drainage.  


Gary Silver


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Maramu main furler stripped gear

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Richard:

There has been a lot of chatter about the outhaul and main sail furling gearboxes, but there has been very little discussion about the jib (geneoa) furling gearbox.  As mine will no doubt one day need service, I would welcome any additional information anyone might have on that larger unit. 

Sincerely, 

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000 # 335      Lying Jolly Harbour, Antiqua


Re: SM Clima 4th AC Unit in the Galley

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

I just posted a couple of more pictures of the 4th AC unit install.  One showing the failed choke on the control circuit board and one showing the March sea water pump and plumbing. 

Gary


SM Clima 4th AC Unit in the Galley

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Francisco emailed me an enquiry about installing the 4th Air Conditioning (AC) unit in the galley of my SM.  I thought I would respond here rather than in a personal email just in case someone else had similar questions. 

I have had my SM in the Caribbean for 10 of the last 13 years I have owned her.  In that warm climate, the saloon AC simply isn't adequate.  Keeping my wife happy was high on my priority list.  Therefore, I purchased a Climma compact AC/Reverse Cycle Heating unit (Climma 10EH, drop shipped from Italy to Antigua per arrangements made with Coastal Climate Control costalclimatecontrol.com for $3,650 US in 2006) and installed it beneath the galley sink in the deep, virtually un-useable bilge area (un-useable due to difficulty in accessing the area beneath the door mounted swing out garbage can).  Coastal Climate Control also provided technical assistance and the "T" duct, vents, and flex duct etc.  This has been the single best addition I have made to the boat.  I installed an additional pump (March 220 volt 50/60 hertz, magnetic impeller) in the engine room for the sea water supply.  I used the sea water manifold outlet previously used for the anchor wash down for the supply to this pump.    I had long ago changed over the anchor wash down pump to a fresh water system.  The outlet for the seawater was plumbed into a "Y" in the outflow from the desalinator's thru hull.  The pump get's its power from the Climma AC circuit board that comes with the AC unit.  The circuit board control panel was mounted on the bulkhead at the aft of the sink.  I used the "Compressor" circuit breaker on the 220 volt AC panel for the power supply voltage to the entire system.    The front panel of the sink removes in its entirety with two screws and allows access for service and installation.  There was already a cut out in the kick panel of this panel that provides for air return to the evaporator.  I utilized PVC pipe and 4 inch insulated flex duct to tie into the existing fresh air ventilation system to shoot AC air into the quarter berth/battery compartment cabin area with a " T" to take AC air to a vent just towards the back of the dishwasher lid (see pictures in the Photos Section).  One flex duct is run beneath the dish washer then vertically in the aft inboard corner of the cupboard area (not visible when the cupboard door is open, you have to reach inside and aft to feel it). A second duct comes off the "T" and runs behind the vertical fridge, through a cutout in the fore and aft bulkhead that the fresh water dipstick is mounted on (lower aft corner), behind the companionway steps to a vent mounted on a block of African Mahogany matching wood on the starboard side of the companion way steps that properly spaces the vent to be directed into the quarter berth.  I welded up some damper handles that penetrate the PVC plumbing ducts and to those I attached some circular plastic discs to act as dampers to control direction of airflow.  I did this so I would be able to select AC air (95% of the time in this position) or to use air via the existing fresh air circulation fan system.  I glassed in a marine plywood shelf in the bilge area on which the unit sits and is bolted down with the provided clamps.  I place some thick rubber material beneath the unit, like Amel did, to provide some sound dampening.   I installed the  shelf about 1/2 inch too high and therefore had to fabricate some spacers to raise the existing shelf that sits above the AC unit so it wouldn't rest on the top of the compressor.  That step would be un-necessary if I had planned better.  My unit had condensation drain hose outlets at both ends of the tray.  I plumbed these to run level behind the upright fridge and "T" ed them into the main bilge gray water drain hose that runs the length of the boat from the forward head shower etc. On very rare occasions, if I run the unit for a prolonged period, then sail immediately on a starboard tack some condensate water (a couple of cups at most) will not drain properly and end up in the deeper part of the bilge beneath the shelf.  I check that area often (easily done by opening the garbage-can-door and inspecting with a flashlight) to assure that no water is accumulating.  The sea water hoses must be carefully position to assure that they clear all machinery in the engine room yet line up with the ports on the AC unit and are sealed with expansion foam to maintain the water tight integrity of the engine room.  The engine room/galley bulkhead in this area is double thick with an air-space between of about 2 inches.  The thermostat is electronic and I mounted it in the port speaker panel above the stove and ran the wiring down from near the 220 volt panel.  This unit has been wonderful.  It run's on 50 or 60 hertz (even though labeled as a 50 hertz machine.  I did have a choke on the control circuit board burn up while within the one year warranty period and Coastal Climate Control Fed Ex ed me a replacement under warranty to Grenada.  I have had no trouble since.  I purchased a half dozen of the failed chokes for about $12 US and repaired the board so that I now have a spare board.  The originally specified sea water pump proved inadequate even though by all specifications it had adequate sea water flow (perhaps the warm Caribbean sea water was the culprit), so I replaced it with a larger pump ( March LC-3CP-MD 220 volt 50/60 hertz ).  The system has been trouble free except as noted and cools the galley during cooking, will freeze you out of the quarter berth, and makes the saloon comfortable without necessarily running the original Amel installed unit.  I would do this install again in a heart beat.  I would guess it took me about six 1/2 days (about 25 man hours) to complete the install.  

I am happy to answer any additional questions.

Sincerely, Gary S. Silver, MD
s/v Liahona
Amel SM # 335


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Looking for 12 batteries AUSTRALIA

Eric Freedman
 

We used a group 31 truck batter . It is availableeverywhere. It was an exact replacement for out batteries.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite SM 376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of wolfgang buelow
Sent: Monday, March 10, 2014 12:54 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Looking for 12 batteries AUSTRALIA

 

 

Hello Giovanni,

we hav since 3,5 years the scs225 from Trojan. They fit .

Regards

Wolfgang Buelow

ABORA

SM 405

 

 

Giovanni Testa schrieb am 10:10 Freitag, 14.Februar 2014:

 



Hi Mike and to all,

I'm looking for 12 batteries to replace old ones.

The boat is now at Bundaberg Port Marina AUS and I have a lot of problems to find 12 batteries to well place into our battery room.

More local shops don't give me prompt and professional support.

So I'm looking around ( now I'm at home, Venezia, Italy) to find or AGM ( better) or wet ( as my old ones). So please which is your opinion about TROJAN SCS 200?  Problem with their sizes( over all for hight ) ?

More please to all,  any suggestions to find here a good batteries store ( Brisbane,Bundaberg,Gladstone) ?

Thanks in advance to all

Giovanni TESTA

sv EUTIKIA SM 428

Bundaberg Port Marina

 

----- Original Message -----

Sent: Friday, February 14, 2014 1:41 AM

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: [Amel] Xantrex Link 10 Battery Monitor - What you really need to know

 

 

To add to the info from Gary Silver ref Peukert Constant, I am using Trojan SCS 200 batteries. The Peukert Constant is 2.22

Mike Gough,

SM 378

 

Error! Filename not specified.

Questa e-mail è priva di virus e malware perché è attiva la protezione avast! Antivirus .

 

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Maramu main furler stripped gear

Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

Hi there are lots of recent posts on this site that detail the parts list and sources. 

Regards 
Richard Piller
Newport RI SM 209
Cell 603 767 5330

On Feb 22, 2014, at 15:13, Family <gegcarter@...> wrote:

 

Has anyone any experience and / or drawings for the genoa furler on the Super Maramu 2000?  Mine ceased to function yesterday and I suspect it to be the bronze cogged wheel having stripped. 

Any advice would be much appreciated. 

Kind regards

Keith
Guma - SM 261 at Almerimar, Andalucia, Spain. 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Mast Colour

Giovanni TESTA
 


Hi to all,
I found this   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d70tR5EzV3Y  how tu use Bondo
Giovanni
sv EUTIKIA 428
 

----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, March 10, 2014 5:50 PM
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Mast Colour

 

  Sorry, I forgot your question . Your Awlgrip dealer may have a bondo like filler, I bought the filler from  a automotive paint supply house. I can not remember the name of the product, it was a pale green. You only mix a very small amount as it kicks in a few minutes and is ready to sand in ten, and sands very easy and fairs very well. Just tell them what you are doing and they will set you up with the right stuff, Bondo or a bondo like product, some bondo has fiberglass strands in ,you would not want that. I used the bondo on my topsides to fill many dings in the gelcoat, not on aluminum but I am  sure it would be fine  on aluminum as well, but check. The problem with epoxy is it very hard to sand down the excess and to fair out sanding by hand.
                                                                                                                                  Good Luck, Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: INUS - BUSCH
To: amelyachtowners Sent: Mon, Mar 10, 2014 12:55 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Mast Colour

 
Hello Pat,

it looks so complete that I think it should be possible for me, many thanks. Could you pls give me
a hint what sort of "bondo type of filler" that you mentioned should I use?

Dieter
"Fal-lera" Sharki 135




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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Propeller removal on Santorin

karkauai
 

Hi Lars.  There are several threads on this site over the last few years.  See post #15667 and others in that thread. There is a nice description of how to change the seals and a drawing of the prop shaft and seals in the "Files" section.  
It's not a difficult job.
Kent
SM243
Kristy
Brunswick GA USA


On Mar 10, 2014, at 1:54 PM, <yachtsalvagny@...> wrote:

 

Does anyone have an exploded drawing or list of the different parts (bearings, packings etc.) in the C-drive propeller shaft on a Santorin. I need to renew my packings due to seawater leaking into the C-drive oil but have not tried this before.

 
Any advice, checklist or the like is more than welcome!

Best regards
Lars
Santorin #79 Salvagny, currently in Denmark


Propeller removal on Santorin

Amel Salvagny
 

Does anyone have an exploded drawing or list of the different parts (bearings, packings etc.) in the C-drive propeller shaft on a Santorin. I need to renew my packings due to seawater leaking into the C-drive oil but have not tried this before.
 
Any advice, checklist or the like is more than welcome!

Best regards
Lars
Santorin #79 Salvagny, currently in Denmark


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Mast Colour

Patrick McAneny
 

  Sorry, I forgot your question . Your Awlgrip dealer may have a bondo like filler, I bought the filler from  a automotive paint supply house. I can not remember the name of the product, it was a pale green. You only mix a very small amount as it kicks in a few minutes and is ready to sand in ten, and sands very easy and fairs very well. Just tell them what you are doing and they will set you up with the right stuff, Bondo or a bondo like product, some bondo has fiberglass strands in ,you would not want that. I used the bondo on my topsides to fill many dings in the gelcoat, not on aluminum but I am  sure it would be fine  on aluminum as well, but check. The problem with epoxy is it very hard to sand down the excess and to fair out sanding by hand.
                                                                                                                                  Good Luck, Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: INUS - BUSCH
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Mon, Mar 10, 2014 12:55 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Mast Colour

 
Hello Pat,

it looks so complete that I think it should be possible for me, many thanks. Could you pls give me
a hint what sort of "bondo type of filler" that you mentioned should I use?

Dieter
"Fal-lera" Sharki 135


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Mast Colour

INUS - BUSCH
 

Hello Pat,

it looks so complete that I think it should be possible for me, many thanks. Could you pls give me
a hint what sort of "bondo type of filler" that you mentioned should I use?

Dieter
"Fal-lera" Sharki 135


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Looking for 12 batteries AUSTRALIA

wolfgang buelow <abora20032003@...>
 

Hello Giovanni,
we hav since 3,5 years the scs225 from Trojan. They fit .
Regards
Wolfgang Buelow
ABORA
SM 405



Giovanni Testa schrieb am 10:10 Freitag, 14.Februar 2014:
 

Hi Mike and to all,
I'm looking for 12 batteries to replace old ones.
The boat is now at Bundaberg Port Marina AUS and I have a lot of problems to find 12 batteries to well place into our battery room.
More local shops don't give me prompt and professional support.
So I'm looking around ( now I'm at home, Venezia, Italy) to find or AGM ( better) or wet ( as my old ones). So please which is your opinion about TROJAN SCS 200?  Problem with their sizes( over all for hight ) ?
More please to all,  any suggestions to find here a good batteries store ( Brisbane,Bundaberg,Gladstone) ?
Thanks in advance to all
Giovanni TESTA
sv EUTIKIA SM 428
Bundaberg Port Marina
 

----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, February 14, 2014 1:41 AM
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: [Amel] Xantrex Link 10 Battery Monitor - What you really need to know

 
To add to the info from Gary Silver ref Peukert Constant, I am using Trojan SCS 200 batteries. The Peukert Constant is 2.22
Mike Gough,
SM 378


Questa e-mail è priva di virus e malware perché è attiva la protezione avast! Antivirus .




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Mast Colour

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Pat,

Thanks, very good and very complete!

Bill
BeBe #387
BTW, since we are hull #387, I am not going to specify SM2k anymore...because no other model has gone that high in numbers and probably no other model will...just saying...


On Mon, Mar 10, 2014 at 1:06 PM, Patrick Mcaneny <sailw32@...> wrote:
 


Dieter,  I used awlgrip and if do you also, contact a awlgrip dealer tell them you want to roll and tip your mast . You use different reducers for brushing opposed to spraying. Depending on the temperature there is also retarders to be added to slow the paint from kicking. The dealer should be able to provide you with the ratios of paint to catalyst reducers etc. You do not want to paint early in the morning ,you want the mast to warm a bit and all dew gone. You also want to finish your painting a few hours before dusk , if damp air settle on the mast it will dull the finish and will require another coat. You also want a day when the humidity is fairly low. After sanding the corrosion I used a acid to further clean out corrosion that you can not sand out of pores and then neutralize the acid , dry and then apply sealer/primer. The paint on 99.9 % of your mast is probably fine and sound ,those surfaces should be first washed well and the lightly sanded wit h 320 grit. you can use a orbital sander on the flat sides, but need to have a easy touch ,its safer to hand sand and not hard sanding. Once all that is done wash the mast again, the next day when dry wipe the mast down with awlgrip cleaner and your ready for paint. You can only paint one side at a time, the furler slot provides one break, on the front of the mast down the center you want to apply a fine line tape, the dealer can provide it, buy the best ,finest tape they have. Make sure to push the tape edge tight to your mast, the paint is very thin and will flow under the tape if not applied well. Carefully tape everything else not to be painted. You will use a small  roller I think 4 inches and a foam brush or a high quality brush , I used foam and when then got loaded up I used a new one. Start at the top to gain experience , one person rolls the paint on with the other person right behind them lightly tipping the paint with a brush. The brush floats lightly a cross paint just to remove to bubbles , the paint will flow out to a smooth finish. do not apply too much paint. I would roll and tip from the furler to the tape on the front of mast that way you have a start and finish point of only about 12 inches. The roller should not get more than a minute ahead of the tipper, the paint set up quick. look back often look for runs, its very thin paint, try to tip out any runs asap, after 5 minutes or so it may be too late to tip out runs without messing up the paint with brush marks that will not flow out. Once you start to paint continue until you are done always keep a wet edge. Be careful not to apply too much paint around object protruding from the mast its easy to get too much paint on those areas and all looks good and then a couple minutes later you will see runs . This is not as hard as it sounds and the finish should come out beautiful, the painting only take about an hour or so. Let the paint harden ove rnight, lightly sand, clean and apply second coat, two coats should do it . Roll mast over take tape off front off mast, apply new tape on very edge of new paint. Since all prep is done wipe mast off and paint the second side.
                                                                                                                                                                 Good Luck , Pat SM Shena nigans

-----Original Message-----
From: INUS - BUSCH <inusbusch@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Mon, Mar 10, 2014 5:03 am
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Mast Colour

 
Hello Pat,

how deep the corrosion holes are I will see after sanding, but the bondo type of filler sounds good. What is it, do you have a specification? And I am interested in the steps about roll and tip.
Thanks

Dieter
"Fal-lera" Sharki 135