Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Loudhailer

jdernehl@ymail.com <jdernehl@...>
 

I will check after work. I do know the hailer used to work. And I was messing it last night with no luck.



From: Richard Piller ;
To: amelyachtowners@... ;
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Loudhailer
Sent: Tue, Apr 22, 2014 1:26:31 PM

 

Hi what model radio do you have?  The ICom 510 has horn and hailer. 

Regards
Capt Richard Piller 

On Apr 22, 2014, at 8:55, "jdernehl@..." <jdernehl@...> wrote:

 

On the command MIC handset I was trying to use this function. Did not work. I will try messing with the main unit.

Thank you.



From: Roque <ediroque@...>;
To: amelyachtowners@... <amelyachtowners@...>;
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Loudhailer
Sent: Tue, Apr 22, 2014 12:34:31 PM

 

Through the VHF. There should be a "loud"  or "hailer" button on the radio front panel.

Roque
Atica - Amel 54


2014-04-22 9:21 GMT-03:00 jdernehl@... <jdernehl@...>:
 

Is the loudhailer on the mizzen a standard Amel item? If so, how is it operated?

Thank you

Jason
#88



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Toilet/Heads replacement - any suggested brands/models?

Colin - ex SV Island Pearl
 

Hi Ann-Sofie
Interesting further consideration.
What year was SM232 built and how many years was it till the copper pipe corroded through? Our boat is now 13 years old and has had very little use in that time so we hope our copper pipe will last a bit longer as it looks to be in good condition inside as we clean it out.

Colin & Lauren Streeter
Island Pearl II, 2001 SM323
Brisbane, Australia


On 22 Apr 2014, at 9:44 pm, Ann-Sofie Svanberg <kanalmamman@...> wrote:

 

When you are into that job, change the copper tube before it corrodes away, with a even more nasty after work.
It is not easy to remove it, but when it is replace with av PVC tube instead.

Regards
Ann-Sofie
Lady Annila SM 232
At St Barts, Caribbean

Skickat från min iPad

22 apr 2014 kl. 05:57 skrev "Colin Streeter" <colin.d.streeter@...>:

 

Bill & Danny you guys were dead right.

We are mid way in cleaning the copper tube toilet outflow to the holding tank and it was completely blocked. What a hell of a job!!! 5 hours into it and we have bored through just half of the muck in the copper tube!!!

Our 25mm and 38mm toilet outlet hoses were completely clear however we were previously not aware of the 30" length of the copper tube inside the holding tanks, and therefore the need to also bore through and clear out all the muck in this very difficult to get to copper tube.

We have a new macerator pump on it's way here tomorrow, but are not at all surprised that nothing was moving out the bowl as no amount of power would have pushed anything at all through such a badly blocked copper tube.

To those of you who have not done this job before...... take good heed of Danny's advice .... and flush for at least a few minutes daily as I can assure you that this is one very dirty, smelly, awkward job that you don't want to do at all unless you absolutely have to. Fortunately in our case now this will not be a problem again for hopefully at least another 10 years.

Thanks again and Happy sailing

Colin & Lauren Streeter
Island Pearl II, SM #332
Brisbane, Australia



On Tue, Apr 22, 2014 at 2:41 AM, Peter Forbes <ppsforbes@...> wrote:
 

I totally second or third that too. Bill you are an inspiration.

Vicky and I are out to Goçek on Thursday evening late - are you around?

Peter

Peter Forbes

07836 209730

On 21 Apr 2014, at 11:52, Stephanie DiBelardino <stephiedib@...> wrote:

 

I will second that!
Stephanie & Ezio
SM353 indecent

Stephanie DiBelardino

On Apr 21, 2014, at 6:48 AM, Colin Streeter <colin.d.streeter@...> wrote:

 

Bill and Danny thanks a ton for your help.

Bill, I have to say you in particular are an absolute inspiration to so many of the others of us on this site with your never ending generosity of considered and detailed excellent advice which is always so very well set out and extremely helpful. Your reply here once again is yet another example of what I am referring to. In our view you are an absolute credit to this site and also to the wonderful wider Amel brand who by the way are now opening up two new boat sales agents in Australia. Over the past few months I have already spoken with some potential / prospective new boat customers (55's) about the huge value of advice and support to be found on this site. Despite there being just 4 or 5 other Australian based Amel's that we are aware of out here, because of this site in particular, and kind generous members like yourself, we have felt far better supported by the "Wider Amel Brand " since we purchased our Super Maramu 2000 than by any of our previous brands of yachts that we have owned, ie. Catalina, Jeanneau and Island Packet, all of which have actual sales outlets here in Australia. Thank you so much Bill and Judy, both Lauren and I do hope to be able to thank you appropriately in person some day should we ever be fortunate enough to sail into the same port as you.

Colin & Lauren Streeter
Island Pearl II, 2001 SM # 332
Brisbane, Australia





On Mon, Apr 21, 2014 at 7:47 PM, Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...> wrote:
 

Colin,

There is no suction in the system. 

There are 2 pumps: The water pump in the engine room pushes salt water to the toilet filling the bowel and the macerator pump on the toilet pushes everything in the bowel through a hose into holding tank. The hose connects at the bottom of the holding tank to a copper pipe which continues upward inside the tank to near the top of the holding tank.

The pump in the engine room can get clogged with small pieces of shell. This pump is easy to take apart and clean. Note that this pump probably has quick connections for the water hose...by sliding the locking lever to the outside, the hose bib disconnects from the pump housing. Be sure to mark polarity because these are DC motors and will turn in reverse and not work well if polarity is reversed...same polarity issue is true with the macerator pump on the toilet and could be your issue.

The macerator pump has two weaknesses. One is the nut securing the blade to the shaft. Jabsco distributed hundreds if not thousands these with bad stainless steel nuts which react to the stainless steel motor shaft and ruin the pump. Second is the seal. If the seal has started leaking, even a small occasional drip, it may be too late to overhaul with a seal kit. I have been very unlucky with seal overhaul kits because I have never gotten to it soon enough.

If the seal is leaking, my suggestion is to replace the entire pump. Make sure that the polarity is correct so that the blade works correctly. It will pump out if polarity is reversed, but the pump out will be very poor.

The line from the toilet to the holding tank is suspect if it has not been removed and cleaned or replaced in about 6 or 7 years. It will clog with crystallized urine and salt. The copper pipe which goes into the bottom of the holding tank and feeds the output to the top of the holding tank will also clog.

Go this this photo album and study all of the photos: 

I think that even though the Jabsco Quiet Flush has some issues, it may be the best for you. If you change it out, you may find that the new toilet will not match the mounting holes and studs. Additionally, you could have a clogged line and changing the toilet will be a frustrating and costly non-fix.

I do not recommend cleaning the lines, I recommend replacing them with the best sanitation hose you can find. Be sure to replace the joker valve on the back of the toilet where the exhaust line meets the toilet this keeps the flushed liquid from draining back into the toilet.

So bottom line here is what I would do:
  1. Open and clean the water supply pump located in the engine room. Be sure to mark orientation of each part as you take it apart.
  2. Replace the macerator pump completely. When mounting the new pump use some waterproof grease to hold the O ring in place or you will have a leak as this slips out of place easily. Also, before mounting the pump, loosen the nut on the new pump and apply Loctite then re-secure the nut.
  3. Ensure that polarity is correct before mounting the pump. push the button momentarily to see that the rotation of the blade is correct. The color code for wiring on the new pump is probably Orange on the pump = positive which is wired to Brown on the boat...then negative is Black on the pump to Blue on the boat.
  4. Replace all of the hose with the best sanitation hose that you can buy, but before you do, use the tool illustrated in the photos to ream out the copper pipe. Replace the joker valve.
If you do the above your cost will be about $300USD or less per toilet.

I hope this helps you.

Bill
BeBe #387


On Mon, Apr 21, 2014 at 6:56 AM, <colin.d.streeter@...> wrote:
 

Firstly, Seasons greetings to all the Amel family from sunny Australia


After doing repairs for the 2nd time on our Jabsco toilet I have had enough and am looking to replace the original Jabsco Silent Flush electric heads on our 2001 Super Maramu hopefully with something better.

Our problems tend to be leaking seals and/or no suction. Never problems with the macerators though, just suction.

Yes, these can be repaired, and yes, some of our guests may have done the wrong thing in what was flushed down the loo but we were just wondering if any other Amel owners out there had also got tired of constant toilet fixing and replaced the older factory fitted toilets with something new that both fitted and gives less problems? In Australia we appear to be limited to just the following 3 brands, ie. Jabsco, TMC and Planus..

Makes and model numbers would be a good discussion point for us now and any other members who wanted to upgrade to something better in the future..

Happy sailing.

Colin & Lauren Streeter
Island Pearl II, SM #332
Brisbane, Australia
.






--
Colin Streeter
0411 016 445




--
Colin Streeter
0411 016 445


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Toilet/Heads replacement - any suggested brands/models?

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Colin,

My dad used to say, "don't fix what's not broke."

I am fairly sure  that you are ok, unless the copper corrosion causes leaking at the base.

I believe if the top half of the copper broke off, you would still be ok.

CW Bill Rouse
BeBe 387
sent from my tablet

On Apr 22, 2014 4:25 PM, "Colin Streeter" <colin.d.streeter@...> wrote:
 

Hi Ann-Sofie
Interesting further consideration.
What year was SM232 built and how many years was it till the copper pipe corroded through? Our boat is now 13 years old and has had very little use in that time so we hope our copper pipe will last a bit longer as it looks to be in good condition inside as we clean it out.

Colin & Lauren Streeter
Island Pearl II, 2001 SM323
Brisbane, Australia


On 22 Apr 2014, at 9:44 pm, Ann-Sofie Svanberg <kanalmamman@...> wrote:

 

When you are into that job, change the copper tube before it corrodes away, with a even more nasty after work.
It is not easy to remove it, but when it is replace with av PVC tube instead.

Regards
Ann-Sofie
Lady Annila SM 232
At St Barts, Caribbean

Skickat från min iPad

22 apr 2014 kl. 05:57 skrev "Colin Streeter" <colin.d.streeter@...>:

 

Bill & Danny you guys were dead right.

We are mid way in cleaning the copper tube toilet outflow to the holding tank and it was completely blocked. What a hell of a job!!! 5 hours into it and we have bored through just half of the muck in the copper tube!!!

Our 25mm and 38mm toilet outlet hoses were completely clear however we were previously not aware of the 30" length of the copper tube inside the holding tanks, and therefore the need to also bore through and clear out all the muck in this very difficult to get to copper tube.

We have a new macerator pump on it's way here tomorrow, but are not at all surprised that nothing was moving out the bowl as no amount of power would have pushed anything at all through such a badly blocked copper tube.

To those of you who have not done this job before...... take good heed of Danny's advice .... and flush for at least a few minutes daily as I can assure you that this is one very dirty, smelly, awkward job that you don't want to do at all unless you absolutely have to. Fortunately in our case now this will not be a problem again for hopefully at least another 10 years.

Thanks again and Happy sailing

Colin & Lauren Streeter
Island Pearl II, SM #332
Brisbane, Australia



On Tue, Apr 22, 2014 at 2:41 AM, Peter Forbes <ppsforbes@...> wrote:
 

I totally second or third that too. Bill you are an inspiration.

Vicky and I are out to Goçek on Thursday evening late - are you around?

Peter

Peter Forbes

07836 209730

On 21 Apr 2014, at 11:52, Stephanie DiBelardino <stephiedib@...> wrote:

 

I will second that!
Stephanie & Ezio
SM353 indecent

Stephanie DiBelardino

On Apr 21, 2014, at 6:48 AM, Colin Streeter <colin.d.streeter@...> wrote:

 

Bill and Danny thanks a ton for your help.

Bill, I have to say you in particular are an absolute inspiration to so many of the others of us on this site with your never ending generosity of considered and detailed excellent advice which is always so very well set out and extremely helpful. Your reply here once again is yet another example of what I am referring to. In our view you are an absolute credit to this site and also to the wonderful wider Amel brand who by the way are now opening up two new boat sales agents in Australia. Over the past few months I have already spoken with some potential / prospective new boat customers (55's) about the huge value of advice and support to be found on this site. Despite there being just 4 or 5 other Australian based Amel's that we are aware of out here, because of this site in particular, and kind generous members like yourself, we have felt far better supported by the "Wider Amel Brand " since we purchased our Super Maramu 2000 than by any of our previous brands of yachts that we have owned, ie. Catalina, Jeanneau and Island Packet, all of which have actual sales outlets here in Australia. Thank you so much Bill and Judy, both Lauren and I do hope to be able to thank you appropriately in person some day should we ever be fortunate enough to sail into the same port as you.

Colin & Lauren Streeter
Island Pearl II, 2001 SM # 332
Brisbane, Australia





On Mon, Apr 21, 2014 at 7:47 PM, Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...> wrote:
 

Colin,

There is no suction in the system. 

There are 2 pumps: The water pump in the engine room pushes salt water to the toilet filling the bowel and the macerator pump on the toilet pushes everything in the bowel through a hose into holding tank. The hose connects at the bottom of the holding tank to a copper pipe which continues upward inside the tank to near the top of the holding tank.

The pump in the engine room can get clogged with small pieces of shell. This pump is easy to take apart and clean. Note that this pump probably has quick connections for the water hose...by sliding the locking lever to the outside, the hose bib disconnects from the pump housing. Be sure to mark polarity because these are DC motors and will turn in reverse and not work well if polarity is reversed...same polarity issue is true with the macerator pump on the toilet and could be your issue.

The macerator pump has two weaknesses. One is the nut securing the blade to the shaft. Jabsco distributed hundreds if not thousands these with bad stainless steel nuts which react to the stainless steel motor shaft and ruin the pump. Second is the seal. If the seal has started leaking, even a small occasional drip, it may be too late to overhaul with a seal kit. I have been very unlucky with seal overhaul kits because I have never gotten to it soon enough.

If the seal is leaking, my suggestion is to replace the entire pump. Make sure that the polarity is correct so that the blade works correctly. It will pump out if polarity is reversed, but the pump out will be very poor.

The line from the toilet to the holding tank is suspect if it has not been removed and cleaned or replaced in about 6 or 7 years. It will clog with crystallized urine and salt. The copper pipe which goes into the bottom of the holding tank and feeds the output to the top of the holding tank will also clog.

Go this this photo album and study all of the photos: 

I think that even though the Jabsco Quiet Flush has some issues, it may be the best for you. If you change it out, you may find that the new toilet will not match the mounting holes and studs. Additionally, you could have a clogged line and changing the toilet will be a frustrating and costly non-fix.

I do not recommend cleaning the lines, I recommend replacing them with the best sanitation hose you can find. Be sure to replace the joker valve on the back of the toilet where the exhaust line meets the toilet this keeps the flushed liquid from draining back into the toilet.

So bottom line here is what I would do:
  1. Open and clean the water supply pump located in the engine room. Be sure to mark orientation of each part as you take it apart.
  2. Replace the macerator pump completely. When mounting the new pump use some waterproof grease to hold the O ring in place or you will have a leak as this slips out of place easily. Also, before mounting the pump, loosen the nut on the new pump and apply Loctite then re-secure the nut.
  3. Ensure that polarity is correct before mounting the pump. push the button momentarily to see that the rotation of the blade is correct. The color code for wiring on the new pump is probably Orange on the pump = positive which is wired to Brown on the boat...then negative is Black on the pump to Blue on the boat.
  4. Replace all of the hose with the best sanitation hose that you can buy, but before you do, use the tool illustrated in the photos to ream out the copper pipe. Replace the joker valve.
If you do the above your cost will be about $300USD or less per toilet.

I hope this helps you.

Bill
BeBe #387


On Mon, Apr 21, 2014 at 6:56 AM, <colin.d.streeter@...> wrote:
 

Firstly, Seasons greetings to all the Amel family from sunny Australia


After doing repairs for the 2nd time on our Jabsco toilet I have had enough and am looking to replace the original Jabsco Silent Flush electric heads on our 2001 Super Maramu hopefully with something better.

Our problems tend to be leaking seals and/or no suction. Never problems with the macerators though, just suction.

Yes, these can be repaired, and yes, some of our guests may have done the wrong thing in what was flushed down the loo but we were just wondering if any other Amel owners out there had also got tired of constant toilet fixing and replaced the older factory fitted toilets with something new that both fitted and gives less problems? In Australia we appear to be limited to just the following 3 brands, ie. Jabsco, TMC and Planus..

Makes and model numbers would be a good discussion point for us now and any other members who wanted to upgrade to something better in the future..

Happy sailing.

Colin & Lauren Streeter
Island Pearl II, SM #332
Brisbane, Australia
.






--
Colin Streeter
0411 016 445




--
Colin Streeter
0411 016 445


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Loudhailer

Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
 

Hi what model radio do you have?  The ICom 510 has horn and hailer. 

Regards
Capt Richard Piller 

On Apr 22, 2014, at 8:55, "jdernehl@..." <jdernehl@...> wrote:

 

On the command MIC handset I was trying to use this function. Did not work. I will try messing with the main unit.

Thank you.



From: Roque <ediroque@...>;
To: amelyachtowners@... <amelyachtowners@...>;
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Loudhailer
Sent: Tue, Apr 22, 2014 12:34:31 PM

 

Through the VHF. There should be a "loud"  or "hailer" button on the radio front panel.

Roque
Atica - Amel 54


2014-04-22 9:21 GMT-03:00 jdernehl@... <jdernehl@...>:
 

Is the loudhailer on the mizzen a standard Amel item? If so, how is it operated?

Thank you

Jason
#88



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Loudhailer

jdernehl@ymail.com <jdernehl@...>
 

On the command MIC handset I was trying to use this function. Did not work. I will try messing with the main unit.

Thank you.



From: Roque ;
To: amelyachtowners@... ;
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Loudhailer
Sent: Tue, Apr 22, 2014 12:34:31 PM

 

Through the VHF. There should be a "loud"  or "hailer" button on the radio front panel.

Roque
Atica - Amel 54


2014-04-22 9:21 GMT-03:00 jdernehl@... <jdernehl@...>:

 

Is the loudhailer on the mizzen a standard Amel item? If so, how is it operated?

Thank you

Jason
#88



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Loudhailer

Roque
 

Through the VHF. There should be a "loud"  or "hailer" button on the radio front panel.

Roque
Atica - Amel 54


2014-04-22 9:21 GMT-03:00 jdernehl@... <jdernehl@...>:

 

Is the loudhailer on the mizzen a standard Amel item? If so, how is it operated?

Thank you

Jason
#88



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Loudhailer

jdernehl@ymail.com <jdernehl@...>
 

Ok. That's what I was afraid of.

Thanks.



From: Bill & Judy Rouse ;
To: ;
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Loudhailer
Sent: Tue, Apr 22, 2014 12:23:47 PM

 

Was not on a SM.

CW Bill Rouse
BeBe 387
sent from my tablet

On Apr 22, 2014 3:21 PM, "jdernehl@..." <jdernehl@...> wrote:
 

Is the loudhailer on the mizzen a standard Amel item? If so, how is it operated?

Thank you

Jason
#88


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Loudhailer

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Was not on a SM.

CW Bill Rouse
BeBe 387
sent from my tablet

On Apr 22, 2014 3:21 PM, "jdernehl@..." <jdernehl@...> wrote:
 

Is the loudhailer on the mizzen a standard Amel item? If so, how is it operated?

Thank you

Jason
#88


Loudhailer

jdernehl@ymail.com <jdernehl@...>
 

Is the loudhailer on the mizzen a standard Amel item? If so, how is it operated?

Thank you

Jason
#88


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Toilet/Heads replacement - any suggested brands/models?

Ann-Sofie Svanberg <kanalmamman@...>
 

When you are into that job, change the copper tube before it corrodes away, with a even more nasty after work.
It is not easy to remove it, but when it is replace with av PVC tube instead.

Regards
Ann-Sofie
Lady Annila SM 232
At St Barts, Caribbean

Skickat från min iPad

22 apr 2014 kl. 05:57 skrev "Colin Streeter" <colin.d.streeter@...>:

 

Bill & Danny you guys were dead right.

We are mid way in cleaning the copper tube toilet outflow to the holding tank and it was completely blocked. What a hell of a job!!! 5 hours into it and we have bored through just half of the muck in the copper tube!!!

Our 25mm and 38mm toilet outlet hoses were completely clear however we were previously not aware of the 30" length of the copper tube inside the holding tanks, and therefore the need to also bore through and clear out all the muck in this very difficult to get to copper tube.

We have a new macerator pump on it's way here tomorrow, but are not at all surprised that nothing was moving out the bowl as no amount of power would have pushed anything at all through such a badly blocked copper tube.

To those of you who have not done this job before...... take good heed of Danny's advice .... and flush for at least a few minutes daily as I can assure you that this is one very dirty, smelly, awkward job that you don't want to do at all unless you absolutely have to. Fortunately in our case now this will not be a problem again for hopefully at least another 10 years.

Thanks again and Happy sailing

Colin & Lauren Streeter
Island Pearl II, SM #332
Brisbane, Australia



On Tue, Apr 22, 2014 at 2:41 AM, Peter Forbes <ppsforbes@...> wrote:
 

I totally second or third that too. Bill you are an inspiration.

Vicky and I are out to Goçek on Thursday evening late - are you around?

Peter

Peter Forbes

07836 209730

On 21 Apr 2014, at 11:52, Stephanie DiBelardino <stephiedib@...> wrote:

 

I will second that!
Stephanie & Ezio
SM353 indecent

Stephanie DiBelardino

On Apr 21, 2014, at 6:48 AM, Colin Streeter <colin.d.streeter@...> wrote:

 

Bill and Danny thanks a ton for your help.

Bill, I have to say you in particular are an absolute inspiration to so many of the others of us on this site with your never ending generosity of considered and detailed excellent advice which is always so very well set out and extremely helpful. Your reply here once again is yet another example of what I am referring to. In our view you are an absolute credit to this site and also to the wonderful wider Amel brand who by the way are now opening up two new boat sales agents in Australia. Over the past few months I have already spoken with some potential / prospective new boat customers (55's) about the huge value of advice and support to be found on this site. Despite there being just 4 or 5 other Australian based Amel's that we are aware of out here, because of this site in particular, and kind generous members like yourself, we have felt far better supported by the "Wider Amel Brand " since we purchased our Super Maramu 2000 than by any of our previous brands of yachts that we have owned, ie. Catalina, Jeanneau and Island Packet, all of which have actual sales outlets here in Australia. Thank you so much Bill and Judy, both Lauren and I do hope to be able to thank you appropriately in person some day should we ever be fortunate enough to sail into the same port as you.

Colin & Lauren Streeter
Island Pearl II, 2001 SM # 332
Brisbane, Australia





On Mon, Apr 21, 2014 at 7:47 PM, Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...> wrote:
 

Colin,

There is no suction in the system. 

There are 2 pumps: The water pump in the engine room pushes salt water to the toilet filling the bowel and the macerator pump on the toilet pushes everything in the bowel through a hose into holding tank. The hose connects at the bottom of the holding tank to a copper pipe which continues upward inside the tank to near the top of the holding tank.

The pump in the engine room can get clogged with small pieces of shell. This pump is easy to take apart and clean. Note that this pump probably has quick connections for the water hose...by sliding the locking lever to the outside, the hose bib disconnects from the pump housing. Be sure to mark polarity because these are DC motors and will turn in reverse and not work well if polarity is reversed...same polarity issue is true with the macerator pump on the toilet and could be your issue.

The macerator pump has two weaknesses. One is the nut securing the blade to the shaft. Jabsco distributed hundreds if not thousands these with bad stainless steel nuts which react to the stainless steel motor shaft and ruin the pump. Second is the seal. If the seal has started leaking, even a small occasional drip, it may be too late to overhaul with a seal kit. I have been very unlucky with seal overhaul kits because I have never gotten to it soon enough.

If the seal is leaking, my suggestion is to replace the entire pump. Make sure that the polarity is correct so that the blade works correctly. It will pump out if polarity is reversed, but the pump out will be very poor.

The line from the toilet to the holding tank is suspect if it has not been removed and cleaned or replaced in about 6 or 7 years. It will clog with crystallized urine and salt. The copper pipe which goes into the bottom of the holding tank and feeds the output to the top of the holding tank will also clog.

Go this this photo album and study all of the photos: 

I think that even though the Jabsco Quiet Flush has some issues, it may be the best for you. If you change it out, you may find that the new toilet will not match the mounting holes and studs. Additionally, you could have a clogged line and changing the toilet will be a frustrating and costly non-fix.

I do not recommend cleaning the lines, I recommend replacing them with the best sanitation hose you can find. Be sure to replace the joker valve on the back of the toilet where the exhaust line meets the toilet this keeps the flushed liquid from draining back into the toilet.

So bottom line here is what I would do:
  1. Open and clean the water supply pump located in the engine room. Be sure to mark orientation of each part as you take it apart.
  2. Replace the macerator pump completely. When mounting the new pump use some waterproof grease to hold the O ring in place or you will have a leak as this slips out of place easily. Also, before mounting the pump, loosen the nut on the new pump and apply Loctite then re-secure the nut.
  3. Ensure that polarity is correct before mounting the pump. push the button momentarily to see that the rotation of the blade is correct. The color code for wiring on the new pump is probably Orange on the pump = positive which is wired to Brown on the boat...then negative is Black on the pump to Blue on the boat.
  4. Replace all of the hose with the best sanitation hose that you can buy, but before you do, use the tool illustrated in the photos to ream out the copper pipe. Replace the joker valve.
If you do the above your cost will be about $300USD or less per toilet.

I hope this helps you.

Bill
BeBe #387


On Mon, Apr 21, 2014 at 6:56 AM, <colin.d.streeter@...> wrote:
 

Firstly, Seasons greetings to all the Amel family from sunny Australia


After doing repairs for the 2nd time on our Jabsco toilet I have had enough and am looking to replace the original Jabsco Silent Flush electric heads on our 2001 Super Maramu hopefully with something better.

Our problems tend to be leaking seals and/or no suction. Never problems with the macerators though, just suction.

Yes, these can be repaired, and yes, some of our guests may have done the wrong thing in what was flushed down the loo but we were just wondering if any other Amel owners out there had also got tired of constant toilet fixing and replaced the older factory fitted toilets with something new that both fitted and gives less problems? In Australia we appear to be limited to just the following 3 brands, ie. Jabsco, TMC and Planus..

Makes and model numbers would be a good discussion point for us now and any other members who wanted to upgrade to something better in the future..

Happy sailing.

Colin & Lauren Streeter
Island Pearl II, SM #332
Brisbane, Australia
.






--
Colin Streeter
0411 016 445




--
Colin Streeter
0411 016 445


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Toilet/Heads replacement - any suggested brands/models?

Colin - ex SV Island Pearl
 

Bill & Danny you guys were dead right.

We are mid way in cleaning the copper tube toilet outflow to the holding tank and it was completely blocked. What a hell of a job!!! 5 hours into it and we have bored through just half of the muck in the copper tube!!!

Our 25mm and 38mm toilet outlet hoses were completely clear however we were previously not aware of the 30" length of the copper tube inside the holding tanks, and therefore the need to also bore through and clear out all the muck in this very difficult to get to copper tube.

We have a new macerator pump on it's way here tomorrow, but are not at all surprised that nothing was moving out the bowl as no amount of power would have pushed anything at all through such a badly blocked copper tube.

To those of you who have not done this job before...... take good heed of Danny's advice .... and flush for at least a few minutes daily as I can assure you that this is one very dirty, smelly, awkward job that you don't want to do at all unless you absolutely have to. Fortunately in our case now this will not be a problem again for hopefully at least another 10 years.

Thanks again and Happy sailing

Colin & Lauren Streeter
Island Pearl II, SM #332
Brisbane, Australia



On Tue, Apr 22, 2014 at 2:41 AM, Peter Forbes <ppsforbes@...> wrote:
 

I totally second or third that too. Bill you are an inspiration.

Vicky and I are out to Goçek on Thursday evening late - are you around?

Peter

Peter Forbes

07836 209730

On 21 Apr 2014, at 11:52, Stephanie DiBelardino <stephiedib@...> wrote:

 

I will second that!
Stephanie & Ezio
SM353 indecent

Stephanie DiBelardino

On Apr 21, 2014, at 6:48 AM, Colin Streeter <colin.d.streeter@...> wrote:

 

Bill and Danny thanks a ton for your help.

Bill, I have to say you in particular are an absolute inspiration to so many of the others of us on this site with your never ending generosity of considered and detailed excellent advice which is always so very well set out and extremely helpful. Your reply here once again is yet another example of what I am referring to. In our view you are an absolute credit to this site and also to the wonderful wider Amel brand who by the way are now opening up two new boat sales agents in Australia. Over the past few months I have already spoken with some potential / prospective new boat customers (55's) about the huge value of advice and support to be found on this site. Despite there being just 4 or 5 other Australian based Amel's that we are aware of out here, because of this site in particular, and kind generous members like yourself, we have felt far better supported by the "Wider Amel Brand " since we purchased our Super Maramu 2000 than by any of our previous brands of yachts that we have owned, ie. Catalina, Jeanneau and Island Packet, all of which have actual sales outlets here in Australia. Thank you so much Bill and Judy, both Lauren and I do hope to be able to thank you appropriately in person some day should we ever be fortunate enough to sail into the same port as you.

Colin & Lauren Streeter
Island Pearl II, 2001 SM # 332
Brisbane, Australia





On Mon, Apr 21, 2014 at 7:47 PM, Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...> wrote:
 

Colin,

There is no suction in the system. 

There are 2 pumps: The water pump in the engine room pushes salt water to the toilet filling the bowel and the macerator pump on the toilet pushes everything in the bowel through a hose into holding tank. The hose connects at the bottom of the holding tank to a copper pipe which continues upward inside the tank to near the top of the holding tank.

The pump in the engine room can get clogged with small pieces of shell. This pump is easy to take apart and clean. Note that this pump probably has quick connections for the water hose...by sliding the locking lever to the outside, the hose bib disconnects from the pump housing. Be sure to mark polarity because these are DC motors and will turn in reverse and not work well if polarity is reversed...same polarity issue is true with the macerator pump on the toilet and could be your issue.

The macerator pump has two weaknesses. One is the nut securing the blade to the shaft. Jabsco distributed hundreds if not thousands these with bad stainless steel nuts which react to the stainless steel motor shaft and ruin the pump. Second is the seal. If the seal has started leaking, even a small occasional drip, it may be too late to overhaul with a seal kit. I have been very unlucky with seal overhaul kits because I have never gotten to it soon enough.

If the seal is leaking, my suggestion is to replace the entire pump. Make sure that the polarity is correct so that the blade works correctly. It will pump out if polarity is reversed, but the pump out will be very poor.

The line from the toilet to the holding tank is suspect if it has not been removed and cleaned or replaced in about 6 or 7 years. It will clog with crystallized urine and salt. The copper pipe which goes into the bottom of the holding tank and feeds the output to the top of the holding tank will also clog.

Go this this photo album and study all of the photos: 

I think that even though the Jabsco Quiet Flush has some issues, it may be the best for you. If you change it out, you may find that the new toilet will not match the mounting holes and studs. Additionally, you could have a clogged line and changing the toilet will be a frustrating and costly non-fix.

I do not recommend cleaning the lines, I recommend replacing them with the best sanitation hose you can find. Be sure to replace the joker valve on the back of the toilet where the exhaust line meets the toilet this keeps the flushed liquid from draining back into the toilet.

So bottom line here is what I would do:
  1. Open and clean the water supply pump located in the engine room. Be sure to mark orientation of each part as you take it apart.
  2. Replace the macerator pump completely. When mounting the new pump use some waterproof grease to hold the O ring in place or you will have a leak as this slips out of place easily. Also, before mounting the pump, loosen the nut on the new pump and apply Loctite then re-secure the nut.
  3. Ensure that polarity is correct before mounting the pump. push the button momentarily to see that the rotation of the blade is correct. The color code for wiring on the new pump is probably Orange on the pump = positive which is wired to Brown on the boat...then negative is Black on the pump to Blue on the boat.
  4. Replace all of the hose with the best sanitation hose that you can buy, but before you do, use the tool illustrated in the photos to ream out the copper pipe. Replace the joker valve.
If you do the above your cost will be about $300USD or less per toilet.

I hope this helps you.

Bill
BeBe #387


On Mon, Apr 21, 2014 at 6:56 AM, <colin.d.streeter@...> wrote:
 

Firstly, Seasons greetings to all the Amel family from sunny Australia


After doing repairs for the 2nd time on our Jabsco toilet I have had enough and am looking to replace the original Jabsco Silent Flush electric heads on our 2001 Super Maramu hopefully with something better.

Our problems tend to be leaking seals and/or no suction. Never problems with the macerators though, just suction.

Yes, these can be repaired, and yes, some of our guests may have done the wrong thing in what was flushed down the loo but we were just wondering if any other Amel owners out there had also got tired of constant toilet fixing and replaced the older factory fitted toilets with something new that both fitted and gives less problems? In Australia we appear to be limited to just the following 3 brands, ie. Jabsco, TMC and Planus..

Makes and model numbers would be a good discussion point for us now and any other members who wanted to upgrade to something better in the future..

Happy sailing.

Colin & Lauren Streeter
Island Pearl II, SM #332
Brisbane, Australia
.






--
Colin Streeter
0411 016 445




--
Colin Streeter
0411 016 445


New file uploaded to amelyachtowners

amelyachtowners@...
 

Hello,

This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the amelyachtowners
group.

File : /Amel SM Holding Tank Plumbing Diagram/Holding Tank Plumbing.pdf
Uploaded by : amelliahona
Description : Cadd Schematic Drawing of the Holding Tank, shows how the thru hull outlet pipe can be probed from above if the outlet becomes plugged.

You can access this file at the URL:
https://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/files/Amel%20SM%20Holding%20Tank%20Plumbing%20Diagram/Holding%20Tank%20Plumbing.pdf

To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit:
https://help.yahoo.com/kb/index?page=content&y=PROD_GRPS&locale=en_US&id=SLN15398

Regards,

amelliahona


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] problem with drive unit leaking oil

Kostas Ioannidis <kostas_ioannidis@...>
 

Thanks Jean-Pierre!

I guess we've been very lucky!

We've already had our SM for nearly 14years....but I will ask the previous owner.

Helen and Kosta 'Meditation'


On Apr 22, 2014, at 9:56 AM, Germain Jean-Pierre wrote:

 

Hello Helen and Costa,

I do not own an Amel yet....
...but I know somethings because I have researched all aspects for along time..

The earliest super Maramu's had a major problem with the C transmission.  Many boats received a new transmission in the first year of operation.  I know of an SM owner who turned the engine around and installed a shaft drive from a Mango; he was very frustrated!

Ask the previous owner if he changed the transmission; the problem was bad enough that Amel changed suppliers in 1991.

These are every expensive components and have a long lead time.  Some members hare had components made and might have a manufactured solution for you.

Good luck.

Jean-Pierre




On 21 Apr 2014, at 18:09, Kostas Ioannidis <kostas_ioannidis@...> wrote:

 

Hi,

We are having a problem with the drive unit of our SM 29 of 1990.

For the past few years our drive unit has been leaking oil and taking in sea water. We change the seals at every haul out (every year). The amount of oil we loose and the amount of sea water that leaks in is very little. After about a month of cruising the oil changes colour.

Last year we even had oil leaking through the housing , through the fiberglass, at the verybottom of unit. We cleaned and applied Epoxy with fibre glass to completely covering the base. This year so far that seems to be OK.

We also replaced the engine mounts with original parts. The engine vibration is smoother but didn't solve the oil leakage problem.

This year at haul out the seal at the top of the unit, with the hull, was leaking oil. On inspection the seal appears to be in perfect condition!

Does anybody have any ideas how to solve the problem?
And has any body had any similar problems?

Helen and Kosta
'Meditation'




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] problem with drive unit leaking oil

Germain Jean-Pierre <jgermain@...>
 

Hello Helen and Costa,

I do not own an Amel yet....
...but I know somethings because I have researched all aspects for along time..

The earliest super Maramu's had a major problem with the C transmission.  Many boats received a new transmission in the first year of operation.  I know of an SM owner who turned the engine around and installed a shaft drive from a Mango; he was very frustrated!

Ask the previous owner if he changed the transmission; the problem was bad enough that Amel changed suppliers in 1991.

These are every expensive components and have a long lead time.  Some members hare had components made and might have a manufactured solution for you.

Good luck.

Jean-Pierre




On 21 Apr 2014, at 18:09, Kostas Ioannidis <kostas_ioannidis@...> wrote:

 

Hi,

We are having a problem with the drive unit of our SM 29 of 1990.

For the past few years our drive unit has been leaking oil and taking in sea water. We change the seals at every haul out (every year). The amount of oil we loose and the amount of sea water that leaks in is very little. After about a month of cruising the oil changes colour.

Last year we even had oil leaking through the housing , through the fiberglass, at the verybottom of unit. We cleaned and applied Epoxy with fibre glass to completely covering the base. This year so far that seems to be OK.

We also replaced the engine mounts with original parts. The engine vibration is smoother but didn't solve the oil leakage problem.

This year at haul out the seal at the top of the unit, with the hull, was leaking oil. On inspection the seal appears to be in perfect condition!

Does anybody have any ideas how to solve the problem?
And has any body had any similar problems?

Helen and Kosta
'Meditation'


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] perkins 4.154 mountings

David Wallace
 

Neizh,
I got them in 2007 from Amel via Craig on Sangaris who happened to be in New Rochelle.  Perhaps Amel still has a source for them?

Dave
s/v Air Ops
Amel Maramu 104
Sea of Cortez, Mx


On Apr 21, 2014, at 8:43 PM, <mahayana2004@...> wrote:

 

Hi to Amel maramu owners,


I need to rebuilt my engine perkins 4.154.  
I couldnt find the orijinal mountings.
Does anyone had the same experience?
Where can I find them?

Regards
Nezih

amel maramu 
Mahayana 88


perkins 4.154 mountings

nezih nezih
 

Hi to Amel maramu owners,

I need to rebuilt my engine perkins 4.154.  
I couldnt find the orijinal mountings.
Does anyone had the same experience?
Where can I find them?

Regards
Nezih

amel maramu 
Mahayana 88


Re: hot water tank .- Dual Heat Exchangers. - Solution found

ericmeury@...
 

Thanks to those that responded.

Thought i would share my plans.  Those that either have no genset may find this helpful.  Those that have a genset obviouslly know that they need to put a load on it when they are charging so making hot water is a perfect opportunity.

We have a small honda genset but don't want to use it everyday and certainly do not want to run the engine just to make hot water.    Plus our old leaking tank was 220 not 110.  We want to be able to use solar to heat our water. 

We found this company that makes solar panels that can accept either a glycol solution or pump water directly.  http://www.heliatos.com/  They are 24x24.  The owner said that one will probably accomplish what we are trying to do.  I have talked with a few RV owners who claim that they don't have to use their propane tanks to make hot water when they are not hooked up to electric so fingers crossed that it really works.  

We purchased a tank from Torrid Marine 6 gallons.  Torrid is going to install a second separate heat exchanger to the solar and engine loop will be completely isolated.  (plus a 110 element).  Cost of water tank was higher than i wanted at almost $1000.   Total lead time for production is almost 8 weeks.  The tank will fit in the exact place of the current.

Hopefully this works as planned otherwise it might be one expensive experiment.  If it does work maybe i can get the 30% tax credit for solar hot water system.   :)


Eric and Viki
Omorfi Thea

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Toilet/Heads replacement - any suggested brands/models?

Peter Forbes
 

Bill,

Have a great trip - we'll keep in touch.

Peter 

Peter Forbes

07836 209730

On 21 Apr 2014, at 19:39, "Bill & Judy Rouse" <yahoogroups@...> wrote:

 

Peter  we left Gocek this afternoon.  We are headed to Greek Islands, then Croatia, Montenegro,  and Albania. Nettuno, Italy for the winter...sorry,  we missed you again.

There is a great Swiss couple at Skopea Marina on Super Maramu Pitu...Maria and Willy...you should meet them. Also, Riza has added some people to his staff...I think you will like this.

CW Bill Rouse
BeBe 387
sent from my tablet


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Toilet/Heads replacement - any suggested brands/models?

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Peter  we left Gocek this afternoon.  We are headed to Greek Islands, then Croatia, Montenegro,  and Albania. Nettuno, Italy for the winter...sorry,  we missed you again.

There is a great Swiss couple at Skopea Marina on Super Maramu Pitu...Maria and Willy...you should meet them. Also, Riza has added some people to his staff...I think you will like this.

CW Bill Rouse
BeBe 387
sent from my tablet


problem with drive unit leaking oil

Kostas Ioannidis <kostas_ioannidis@...>
 

Hi,

We are having a problem with the drive unit of our SM 29 of 1990.

For the past few years our drive unit has been leaking oil and taking in sea water. We change the seals at every haul out (every year). The amount of oil we loose and the amount of sea water that leaks in is very little. After about a month of cruising the oil changes colour.

Last year we even had oil leaking through the housing , through the fiberglass, at the very bottom of unit. We cleaned and applied Epoxy with fibre glass to completely covering the base. This year so far that seems to be OK.

We also replaced the engine mounts with original parts. The engine vibration is smoother but didn't solve the oil leakage problem.

This year at haul out the seal at the top of the unit, with the hull, was leaking oil. On inspection the seal appears to be in perfect condition!

Does anybody have any ideas how to solve the problem?
And has any body had any similar problems?

Helen and Kosta
'Meditation'