It's time to replace the exhaust elbow and I am having problems
finding the right one in the US. Anyone have a source or advice?
Thanks

Hi

As most of the boat owners, your glad when you buy your boat, and your
glad when you sell it. But with an Amel you will find out later that
you have sold something special.

This is the reason that we're searching for our former Mango "Lady
Anthonia" on which we sailed for 5 years. It was on one of the last
build Mango's and so far as we can remember had it hull number 72.
Because we're not sure about the hull number it can also be 71- or 74.
We sold it in 1994 in Ft Lauderdale via Joel Potter to an US citizen
who called the vessel Renaissance (or something like that). Does anyone
know where it is and/or what has happened to it ?

Thanks
Laurens & Catharina
Vos

Many thanks to Charlie and Volker for your enlightening and interesting
responses.

Alex Paquin
Simpatico
Maramu hull# 94
Caracas, Venezuela

Hi Alex,

I just took my selector apart a few days ago and learned something
interesting:

In the Secours position only the service battery bank will start the
engine. The engine battery does not have a contact in that position.
I assume AMEL did this, so the service battery will not be damaged
if there is a short circuit in the engine battery bank.

It is pretty easy to disassemble the selector. You can take away
layer after layer and verifiy, how the positions are switched.

Fair winds

Volker
LA GITANA
Marmau #82
Lagos/ Portugal

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Alex Paquin"
<alex.paquin@u...> wrote:

Can anyone help me answer these questions regarding the original
Maramu electrical master switch setup:

1. Can the selector be rotated both clockwise and counterclockwise
without causing harm to the switch or other systems?

2.If I start the engine on the SECOURS position (all battery banks
together) can I switch back to NORMAL position with the engine

running?

3.If I leave the selector in the SECOURS position with the engine
running (and both alternators running of course) will I be

charging

both battery banks at the same time? Is it safe to run the engine

in

this position any period of time?

Alex Paquin
SIMPATICO
Maramu #94

Can anyone help me answer these questions regarding the original
Maramu electrical master switch setup:

1. Can the selector be rotated both clockwise and counterclockwise
without causing harm to the switch or other systems?

2.If I start the engine on the SECOURS position (all battery banks
together) can I switch back to NORMAL position with the engine running?

3.If I leave the selector in the SECOURS position with the engine
running (and both alternators running of course) will I be charging
both battery banks at the same time? Is it safe to run the engine in
this position any period of time?

Alex Paquin
SIMPATICO
Maramu #94

I owned a Maramu (#102) for 16 years and sold her 5 years ago to purchase our
current Super Maramu 2000, so these answers are based on my memory and should
be confirmed with AMEL or another owner.

1) The switch rotates both ways.

2) Yes. Switching back to NORMAL will not cause any problems.

3) Yes, you could safely leave the switch in the SECOURS position and will be
charging both banks, however if both battery banks and alternators are
functioning properly there is no reason to do so. It is always better to keep the
alternator/battery pairs seperate.

AMEL's philosophy with the MARAMU battery/alternator set up is to provide two
way redundancy. If either an alternator or a battery bank (or one of each)
fails you can still operate both starting and house 12 volt systems until you
can repair the problem. The only problem that might be caused by "operator
error" could arise if you turned the switch to the ARRET (off) position (or removed
the grounding toggle) while the engine was running. This might cause
transient current surges that could burn out an alternator diode.

Hope this helps and that my memory is correct.

Charlie
S/V MALAIKA II
Barcelona, SPAIN

We lost our port forward sail locker covers (2) in Katrina.
Would appreciate any suggestions on their replacement.

John and Anne
"Annie M"
Amel Mango Hull Number 1

G'day Roger,
Thankyou again for advice, looks like our problems were identical and both caused by fresh water. Approx 12 months ago I made the unpleasant discovery but instead of removing the shower tray I cut away the bulkhead forward of the compression post from the saloon side, removing all damaged material from there. The post was approx 30% affected so it was not as advanced as your Mango. After much new timber and epoxy resin I think I have repaired to original strength. Water is still sometimes found after heavy rain so I am keen to solve that problem. I will let you know when I do.

Regards,
Mike Gough

Roger Banks <roger.banks@mac.com> wrote:
Hi Mike

You're reminding me now of some more detail. Our shipwright had to take
out the shower tray and renew the inner layer of the double skin
bulkhead from the shower tray downwards. At that stage we were
attributing the compression post rot to shower activity dampness
working its way down the side of the shower tray. Maybe it was a
combination of factors. I recommend you do some testing of the post and
bulkhead with a screwdriver blade without delay.

We did not have to take down the mast, however. A couple of acro-props
were used to bridge the load of the mast down to the hull while the
compression post and bulkhead were cut away. Whilst it all sounds
rather frightening, it proved to be a fairly straightforward job for a
competent shipwright and not too expensive, circa $2000 Australian.

Regards, Roger, Mango 28, Zorba

On 09/10/2005, at 11:37 AM, Mike Gough wrote:

G,day Roger,

Thankyou for info, design under main mast sounds the same and I think
water ingress from base of mast is most likely as was the case for
your Mango. I have noticed water draining into the head by way of a
special water trap as you described but this goes into the shower bay.
The walls are lined with the usual Amel vinyl lining and I am
wondering if somehow water could be moving down between the vinyl and
wall proper? I think I may have to consider lifting the mast one day
to resolve. Incidentally, I managed to mis spell the model name.
Should be Maramu!

Thanks again,
Mike Gough

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Hello All,
My last boat was an Oyster 435 sloop rigged ketch. After checking with
Oyster I had it converted to what they called a slutter rig.
A new forestay complete with sheave box was fitted about three feet
down from the outer headstay thus avoiding the need for ruuning
backstays. A halyard exit box went into the mast and a new chainplate
was built in to the fore deck. The new forestay was normally tied down
to the mast foot but for passages it was secured to the chainplate
with a fitting made by Wichard which incorporates a screwthread and
let down handles to tighten the inner forestay, this fitting normally
lay flat on the fore deck. I did not use a furling forestay as the
inner forestay was only used to hold a bagged storm jib hanked on
ready for emergency use (it never was used!).
It could however have been used for a Solent Jib and on the SM 2000
this should improve the windward performance either independently or
in conjunction with the genoa.
A sail that we used a lot on rough passages (e.g. Fiji,Tonga and
Vanuatu to New Zealand) was a flat Yankee jib which was still
effective furled and the high cut kept it out of the heavy seas.
In my view one of the many great virtues of the SM design is its
simlicity of operation and to add complications for everyday sailing
would not be attractive to us. Indeed when I now see yachts such as
Oysters with their rows of winches, miles of lines etc I shudder at
the thought of the work that would be involved for a short handed
crew.

Good sailing, Anne and John

Hallo John,
I own a SM 143 (1995) and would like to explore the possibility to upgrade to a SM of a somewhat younger date. Would you be so kind and let me know more about your boat. In particular I would be interested :
-price (VAT paid)
-where was the boat sailed?
-was the boat sailed always by the same person?
-how many days did you spend as an average annualy on the boat?
- how and by whom was the boat maintained?
- electronical equipment-any change to the standard equipment?
-sails are of 2001?
- any other items which might be of interest to a buyer?
- when do you intend to hand over the boat?
Best regards
Rainer Bichlbauer
e-mail: rainerbichlbauer@aon.at
Vienna/AUSTRIA

http://www.boatus.com/boatgraphics/names/top10.asp



top ten boat names according to boat u.s. from 1991 to 2004

serenity seems to be a perenial favorite.

enjoy

I have an Amel 54 on order and my SM2000, "Silver Cloud" no 330,
launched May 2001 with Yanmar engine specification, is for sale. This
is a very lightly used French Med boat in excellent condition. For
sale direct at a very attractive price with free berthing in Antibes
till Apr 2006 if required. Please email if interested.
John McDougall

Today I replaced my teak passerelle steps with this plastic teak like
material. The material was 1x 4" worked perfectly. I had this material on
my last boat and it held up a lot better than teak. They cut grooves in the
material at the factory. Took less time to make the steps than refinishing
the teak material.

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376

www.plasteak.com&#92; <http://www.plasteak.com/>

Today I replaced my teak passerelle steps with this plastic teak like
material. The material was 1x 4" worked perfectly. I had this material on
my last boat and it held up a lot better than teak. They cut grooves in the
material at the factory. Took less time to make the steps than refinishing
the teak material.

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376

www.plasteak.com&#92; <http://www.plasteak.com/>

Hi Mike

You're reminding me now of some more detail. Our shipwright had to take
out the shower tray and renew the inner layer of the double skin
bulkhead from the shower tray downwards. At that stage we were
attributing the compression post rot to shower activity dampness
working its way down the side of the shower tray. Maybe it was a
combination of factors. I recommend you do some testing of the post and
bulkhead with a screwdriver blade without delay.

We did not have to take down the mast, however. A couple of acro-props
were used to bridge the load of the mast down to the hull while the
compression post and bulkhead were cut away. Whilst it all sounds
rather frightening, it proved to be a fairly straightforward job for a
competent shipwright and not too expensive, circa $2000 Australian.

Regards, Roger, Mango 28, Zorba

G,day Roger,

Thankyou for info, design under main mast sounds the same and I think water ingress from base of mast is most likely as was the case for your Mango. I have noticed water draining into the head by way of a special water trap as you described but this goes into the shower bay. The walls are lined with the usual Amel vinyl lining and I am wondering if somehow water could be moving down between the vinyl and wall proper? I think I may have to consider lifting the mast one day to resolve. Incidentally, I managed to mis spell the model name. Should be Maramu!

Thanks again,
Mike Gough


Roger Banks <roger.banks@mac.com> wrote:
Hi Mike

I've had the same problem with my Mango no. 28 (the direct precursor of
the SM). We had rot in the compression post under the main mast which
our surveyor did not find. The problem did not become clear at first
(i) because the forward well also houses the water speed transponder
which leaks a few cups of water each time the transponder is put in or
pulled out, and (ii) the plumbing to the basin in the forward head was
leaking when under pressure and needed pretty much all the clips
tightening (you may want to check this). However, water kept pooling in
that same place.

After some months of ownership and following the repairs, a guest
spotted, when it was raining, a small line of water coming down from
the mast, through the small hatch where (on the Mango at least) the
mast lighting switch box can be opened to reveal cables coming down the
mast, on down the compression post and into the forward well. I'm told
by the shipwright who made the repairs that water down the mast is a
fairly common problem and difficult to arrest, and he had applied a
good amount of glass around the base of the compression post to
waterproof it for that reason.

I've tried as follows. I found an inspection of the mast revealed few
obvious holes; any found may be sealed with a small amount of marine
Sikaflex. This made virtually no difference and I was left puzzling how
else water would enter the mast. I've recently put a fillet of Sikaflex
around the base of the mast where it sits on the step, because it looks
like some of the water running down the outside of the mast may find
its way through the coachroof via the step. This has reduced the flow
but I'm still looking. For the time being, I'm reluctant to block the
mast completely with a filler for obvious reasons of future access.

I have a similar issue with the mizzen, where we also had to repair
extensive rot in the compression box system which conveys the forces
through to the bulkhead. I notice water is still seeping through and
drips down at the aft end of the engine room, directly beneath the
mast. I cannot see yet how this is happening but I'm on the case.

Good luck and do keep in touch about it.

Regards, Roger, Mango 28, Zorba

On 07/10/2005, at 9:03 AM, Mike Gough wrote:

G,day all,

We own Maramou # 147, and I wish to warn owners who may face this
problem: after heavy rain we find fresh water in the hold under the
fwd head. (Still unable find where it leaks in). The consequence of
this leak can be disasterous. I found fresh water to have caused dry
rot to form at the base of the compression post and centre bulkhead.
It was a huge job to cut out affected areas and replace! If anyone has
an idea of where to look for the leak I would be appreciative.

Regards,
MIke Gough


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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Boating sailing

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi Mike

I've had the same problem with my Mango no. 28 (the direct precursor of
the SM). We had rot in the compression post under the main mast which
our surveyor did not find. The problem did not become clear at first
(i) because the forward well also houses the water speed transponder
which leaks a few cups of water each time the transponder is put in or
pulled out, and (ii) the plumbing to the basin in the forward head was
leaking when under pressure and needed pretty much all the clips
tightening (you may want to check this). However, water kept pooling in
that same place.

After some months of ownership and following the repairs, a guest
spotted, when it was raining, a small line of water coming down from
the mast, through the small hatch where (on the Mango at least) the
mast lighting switch box can be opened to reveal cables coming down the
mast, on down the compression post and into the forward well. I'm told
by the shipwright who made the repairs that water down the mast is a
fairly common problem and difficult to arrest, and he had applied a
good amount of glass around the base of the compression post to
waterproof it for that reason.

I've tried as follows. I found an inspection of the mast revealed few
obvious holes; any found may be sealed with a small amount of marine
Sikaflex. This made virtually no difference and I was left puzzling how
else water would enter the mast. I've recently put a fillet of Sikaflex
around the base of the mast where it sits on the step, because it looks
like some of the water running down the outside of the mast may find
its way through the coachroof via the step. This has reduced the flow
but I'm still looking. For the time being, I'm reluctant to block the
mast completely with a filler for obvious reasons of future access.

I have a similar issue with the mizzen, where we also had to repair
extensive rot in the compression box system which conveys the forces
through to the bulkhead. I notice water is still seeping through and
drips down at the aft end of the engine room, directly beneath the
mast. I cannot see yet how this is happening but I'm on the case.

Good luck and do keep in touch about it.

Regards, Roger, Mango 28, Zorba

On 07/10/2005, at 9:03 AM, Mike Gough wrote:

G,day all,

We own Maramou # 147, and I wish to warn owners who may face this
problem: after heavy rain we find fresh water in the hold under the
fwd head. (Still unable find where it leaks in). The consequence of
this leak can be disasterous. I found fresh water to have caused dry
rot to form at the base of the compression post and centre bulkhead.
It was a huge job to cut out affected areas and replace! If anyone has
an idea of where to look for the leak I would be appreciative.

Regards,
MIke Gough


           
---------------------------------
Yahoo! for Good
Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort.





SPONSORED LINKS
Sailing
Sailing yacht
Amel
Boating sailing

YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS

▪  Visit your group "amelyachtowners" on the web.
 
▪  To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
 amelyachtowners-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
 
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Service.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

The stay is attached through a T shaped that passes through a hole in the profile. the solent is on a profurl furler.

Wilfrid,

Thanks for the info. Sounds like a very good idea to me to increase options
of point of sail and to save wear on the genoa. Glad to hear it can be
easily rigged on this model boat.

Judy

How is the stay attached to the mast?

Fair winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376



_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of wilfridamel
Sent: Thursday, October 06, 2005 3:57 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Amel 54 impressions/cutter rig



-I have added one on my own. The stay is attached to the central
vertical split grp panel with two stainless stell plates.
The solent is 25sqmeters (250 square feet?)
works fine and avoid destrying the genoa too fast.
Sailed upwind this summer in a 25-30knots wind, at 50° real wind, much
better than on a half furled genoa.


-- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Judy Rouse" <judyrouse@h...>
wrote:

Did you also notice that it is now cutter rigged? Now I'm wondering

how

much trouble it would be to rig a solent stay on the SM2. Anyone

know if

Amel offers a chainplate kit for such, or has anyone added one on

their own?

Judy

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