Date   

Re: Engine and Service Battery circuits Isolated

Alan Leslie
 

Personally I wouldn't worry too much about the start battery, I don't.

The main engine has a dedicated alternator to charge the start battery...so every time you run the engine the start battery is charged...just like your car...do you have a monitor for that ?....I'm guessing  the answer is no...


Same with the genset...there's a dedicated alternator that charges the start battery (same battery as the engine charges)


So in total...don't worry about it...just keep it topped up with distilled water.....or better, do what I'm gong to do and replace it with a no-maintenance AGM battery


Cheers

Alan

SV Elyse SM437


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Engine and Service Battery circuits Isolated

Alan Leslie
 

You could be right...the voltage potential is just so overwhelming everything goes....

I can't find a lot of logic in most of this....

I've just antifouled and refurbished the Autoprop with new bearings...and after seeing the shaft corrosion on (your?) shafts, I've installed the prop zinc that comes with the bearing kit... I see the 54s have it whereas our SM53s don't ...why ??


Also I showed those pics to an engineer here and he thinks it is crevice corrosion caused by Stainless steel operating in an oxygen deprived environment...which could be the case if the outer seals failed, but the inners didn't....more food for thought.......


Cheers

Alan

SV Elyse SM437

Gulf Harbour NZ ...currently


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: A54 Main Sail Furling Motor

Peter Forbes
 

Depending on price I might be interested in a spare motor.

Peter Forbes
Amel 54 # 035
07836 209730

On 24 Apr 2014, at 10:53, "jose esteller" <jose.esteller@...> wrote:

 

Hi Craig

I think the main sail furling can be manufactured by LEROY SOMER in France, as the others systems used before in SM. Can you post the references of the motor and perhaps a photo? With them I will try ask this manufacturer. Past time I had the same problem with the main sail motor in my SM 2000 and I found the motor directly. I am very interested on this because perhaps in the future I can found the same problem with my actual 54 ORION!

Best regards

 

José Esteller

Expert près la Cour d'Appel de Montpellier (H)

Expert près la Cour Administrative d'Appel de Marseille

Tel +33467844519 Fax +33467844521

jose.esteller@...


Re: A54 Main Sail Furling Motor

ESTELLER
 

Hi Craig

I think the main sail furling can be manufactured by LEROY SOMER in France, as the others systems used before in SM. Can you post the references of the motor and perhaps a photo? With them I will try ask this manufacturer. Past time I had the same problem with the main sail motor in my SM 2000 and I found the motor directly. I am very interested on this because perhaps in the future I can found the same problem with my actual 54 ORION!

Best regards

 

José Esteller

Expert près la Cour d'Appel de Montpellier (H)

Expert près la Cour Administrative d'Appel de Marseille

Tel +33467844519 Fax +33467844521

jose.esteller@...


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: perkins 4.154 mountings

nezih nezih
 

Thank you all, for your advice.

Ross, Im not sure to wait for weeks; Because there is not much time before hurricane season;but I wonder what kind of mounts they are. 

I asked  these mounts from us,uk and they answered not have them at all.
My maramu i,s 1981/88 . Vetüs mounts are very different.  If I can not find the same ones  I have hope to change the buffers.
 Now Im waiting the answer of Amel to my email.

Maybe someone has same as next before replace new engine.

Im at Belize and searching rebuilt kitts.  Belize is easy for transit shipping (no tax).
I will sail to Cuba to rebuilt the engine.  I had been there 3 month. I saw that they are exellent on engine; exactly on old engines like perkins. There is very cheap.

Regards

Nezih Kilinckini
Mahayana 1981/88

On Wednesday, April 23, 2014 1:28 AM, nezih nezih wrote:
On Tuesday, April 22, 2014 8:41 PM, "ericmeury@..." wrote:



Re: Engine and Service Battery circuits Isolated

Andrew & Kate Lamb
 


Ok sounds like I should leave well alone - in our last boat the -VE poles were tied together between the house and engine batteries with one common (black) master switch and the positive poles had separate (red) master switches the combined circuits were isolated though. I am keen to monitor the battery state as the only charging appears to be from (I think) the genset or engine alternator and given that both of these need the battery to be charged to start... - there appears to be no charging from the shore power - I think I will install a separate battery monitor, to monitor the health of the engine battery. Good tip on the jump leads - I did come across these at the bottom of a locker.


Andrew & Kate

Ronpische

SM 472

Canet-en-Rousillon


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] A54 Main Sail Furling Motor

lior 555 <lior246@...>
 

Hi Craig

I also searched  where I can get this motor.
You can get the motor from Amel. It costs about 750 €. It is only possible to order 10 motors from Emerson but you will have to wait many weeks an it will cost about 550 €/motor. I did not find any other supplier.

Lior
Amel 54 #18 SHARONA




2014-04-24 3:08 GMT+02:00 <sv.lonestar@...>:

 

The electromagnetic brake on the Main Sail Furling Motor on my Amel 54 has failed.  Water accumulated in the housing and the brake no longer engages with 24VDC.  Amel has told me the motor is obsolete and Emerson Electric has confirmed the same and says not parts are available.  Has anyone sourced a replacement brake assembly?
Craig Scott
Lone Star
A54 #101
currently in Myrtle Beach, SC



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Engine and Service Battery circuits Isolated

Eric Freedman
 

There is an old joke. What do you get when you cross breed King Kong and a Canary—answer- I don’t know but when it talks you listen.

 

I am a firm believer that wherever lightning want to go it goes, I do not believe that grounding the rigging to the bonding does anything. I was hit by lightning.

It struck the Ais-Vhf antenna and melted it to about 10 inches like a welding rod. It blew out things on the generator, the engine, all the electronics, the autopilot the bow thruster motor and blew the propeller off the bow thruster and the bow thruster out of the boat..

I do not know what connecting the bonding to the rigging would have done to help.

 

My friend has a boat in Florida where everything is bonded to the rigging. The lightning hit his rigging and wound up blowing out a bonded through hull and sunk the boat at the dock.

 

I don’t think a million or billion volts cares what wires you have running through your boat-it goes where it feels like.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite SM 376

 

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of divanz620@...
Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2014 1:19 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Engine and Service Battery circuits Isolated

 

 

This is the Amel system.

 

The -24V line is not connected to "ground" at all.

The -12V starting battery line is only connected to ground during starting of the engines.

 

All the -ve lines from 24V equipment return to the -ve battery terminal of the 24V bank.

 

All of the metal equipment that comes in contact with salt water is grounded by means of green/yellow wires that are all connected together at a bracket in the sump. This bracket is connected to a keel bolt and also to the zincs on the rudder. There is no zinc in the Yanmar engine, although there is one in the Genset.

 

I can sort of see some logic in this, but what has me also mystified is that all of the standing rigging is isolated from ground....I don't know if anyone can explain why that is a good thing ?

 

Cheers

Alan

SV Elyse SM437.


Re: Engine and Service Battery circuits Isolated

Alan Leslie
 

This is the Amel system.


The -24V line is not connected to "ground" at all.

The -12V starting battery line is only connected to ground during starting of the engines.


All the -ve lines from 24V equipment return to the -ve battery terminal of the 24V bank.


All of the metal equipment that comes in contact with salt water is grounded by means of green/yellow wires that are all connected together at a bracket in the sump. This bracket is connected to a keel bolt and also to the zincs on the rudder. There is no zinc in the Yanmar engine, although there is one in the Genset.


I can sort of see some logic in this, but what has me also mystified is that all of the standing rigging is isolated from ground....I don't know if anyone can explain why that is a good thing ?


Cheers

Alan

SV Elyse SM437.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Engine and Service Battery circuits Isolated

Eric Freedman
 

On my boat,

Both the engine and generator have floating ground circuits. They are only connected to the battery when the engines are started. Otherwise except for the isolated  alternators, there is no connection to the negative side of the batteries.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite SM 376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Kent Robertson
Sent: Wednesday, April 23, 2014 3:22 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Engine and Service Battery circuits Isolated

 

 

I hope someone more knowledgeable than I chimes in here.  My understanding is that all 24V equipment is grounded directly back to the 24v Negative battery pole, and likewise the 12V equipment is grounded directly back to the 12V battery pole.  Neither of these should be connected to the bonding circuit, which connects everything to the zincs on the rudder.  I believe this is called an isolated or floating bonding system.  I haven't quite figured out the difference between this and other bonding systems, and/or the advantages or disadvantages of different systems...but I wouldn't change it for the sake of a 12V battery monitor.  Perhaps you could install a switch to go from house bank to 12v battery?

Kent (Rusty)

SM243

Kristy 

Fernandina Beach FL


On Apr 23, 2014, at 3:07 PM, <andrew.lamb@...> wrote:

 

I recently installed a Victron battery monitor which also has a facility to monitor the engine battery voltage however I discovered that the -VE of the engine battery and the service batteries are not linked. Does anyone know a reason why this should be and see a problem with why they should not be tied together - I would have thought from a "grounding" point of view it would be better for them to be linked?

 

thanks

 

Andrew & Kate

S/V Ronpische

SM 472


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Engine and Service Battery circuits Isolated

Eric Freedman
 

If you have ever had someone switch the normal 1-2-both battery switch to both and wound up with a bank of dead batteries, that is why they are not tied together,.

 

The boat should have come with a set of jumper cables to connect a dead engine start battery to a good house battery.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite SM 376

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of andrew.lamb@...
Sent: Wednesday, April 23, 2014 3:07 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Engine and Service Battery circuits Isolated

 

 

I recently installed a Victron battery monitor which also has a facility to monitor the engine battery voltage however I discovered that the -VE of the engine battery and the service batteries are not linked. Does anyone know a reason why this should be and see a problem with why they should not be tied together - I would have thought from a "grounding" point of view it would be better for them to be linked?

 

thanks

 

Andrew & Kate

S/V Ronpische

SM 472


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] New file uploaded to amelyachtowners

Eric Freedman
 

We are in the Simpson Bay marina in about slip C-18.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite SM 376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Roy Duddy
Sent: Wednesday, April 23, 2014 2:56 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] New file uploaded to amelyachtowners

 

 


New Thread! I am at Simpson Bay Resort, St. Maarten

I jus looked out and saw an Amel anchored. I am wondering who it might be? Too far for my eyesight.
I will go to the yacht club this afternoon to see if she goes through the bridge.

Roy Duddy
Unwineding
Shark 123
Portsmouth, NH



Roy A. Duddy
603-315-9600 cell
603-668-9000 office


A54 Main Sail Furling Motor

Craig Scott
 

The electromagnetic brake on the Main Sail Furling Motor on my Amel 54 has failed.  Water accumulated in the housing and the brake no longer engages with 24VDC.  Amel has told me the motor is obsolete and Emerson Electric has confirmed the same and says not parts are available.  Has anyone sourced a replacement brake assembly?
Craig Scott
Lone Star
A54 #101
currently in Myrtle Beach, SC


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] New file uploaded to amelyachtowners

Ann-Sofie Svanberg <kanalmamman@...>
 

If you can see Marigot Bay, it could be us....

/Annsofie
Lady Annila, SM # 232 with swedish flag and yellow dingy on aft deck

Skickat från min iPad

23 apr 2014 kl. 14:56 skrev "Roy Duddy" <RDuddy@...>:

 


New Thread! I am at Simpson Bay Resort, St. Maarten

I jus looked out and saw an Amel anchored. I am wondering who it might be? Too far for my eyesight.
I will go to the yacht club this afternoon to see if she goes through the bridge.

Roy Duddy
Unwineding
Shark 123
Portsmouth, NH



Roy A. Duddy
603-315-9600 cell
603-668-9000 office


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Engine and Service Battery circuits Isolated

karkauai
 

I hope someone more knowledgeable than I chimes in here.  My understanding is that all 24V equipment is grounded directly back to the 24v Negative battery pole, and likewise the 12V equipment is grounded directly back to the 12V battery pole.  Neither of these should be connected to the bonding circuit, which connects everything to the zincs on the rudder.  I believe this is called an isolated or floating bonding system.  I haven't quite figured out the difference between this and other bonding systems, and/or the advantages or disadvantages of different systems...but I wouldn't change it for the sake of a 12V battery monitor.  Perhaps you could install a switch to go from house bank to 12v battery?
Kent (Rusty)
SM243
Kristy 
Fernandina Beach FL


On Apr 23, 2014, at 3:07 PM, <andrew.lamb@...> wrote:

 

I recently installed a Victron battery monitor which also has a facility to monitor the engine battery voltage however I discovered that the -VE of the engine battery and the service batteries are not linked. Does anyone know a reason why this should be and see a problem with why they should not be tied together - I would have thought from a "grounding" point of view it would be better for them to be linked?


thanks


Andrew & Kate

S/V Ronpische

SM 472


Engine and Service Battery circuits Isolated

Andrew & Kate Lamb
 

I recently installed a Victron battery monitor which also has a facility to monitor the engine battery voltage however I discovered that the -VE of the engine battery and the service batteries are not linked. Does anyone know a reason why this should be and see a problem with why they should not be tied together - I would have thought from a "grounding" point of view it would be better for them to be linked?


thanks


Andrew & Kate

S/V Ronpische

SM 472


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] New file uploaded to amelyachtowners

Roy Duddy <RDuddy@...>
 

New Thread! I am at Simpson Bay Resort, St. Maarten

I jus looked out and saw an Amel anchored. I am wondering who it might be? Too far for my eyesight.
I will go to the yacht club this afternoon to see if she goes through the bridge.

Roy Duddy
Unwineding
Shark 123
Portsmouth, NH
Roy A. Duddy
603-315-9600 cell
603-668-9000 office


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Toilet/Heads replacement - any suggested brands/models?

Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

Hi there are no easy ways to clean the copper tube from the toilet exit at the top of the tank one must have spare home and one must have some kind of a snake to break up the salt deposits never an easy task no matter in Harbor or out. One must anticipate that after five or six years will you will have to clean those copper tubes at the top of the tank. We ended up having to use a long hose up through that after the head portal with muriatic acid in it to dissolve the salt in the copper tube. When doing this one must be very careful and not leave the muriatic acid and for too long as it will erode  the copper. 
In any case a miserable job just one of the benefits of owning a boat. The good news is a Amel's make up for it and so many other ways

Regards 
Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

On Apr 23, 2014, at 14:16, Ann-Sofie Svanberg <kanalmamman@...> wrote:

 

Lady Annila is built 1998, but there are more SMs that have hade the problem. It was a discussion not long ago. We hade to change them in 2012.

And I do not agree with BeBe, if there is something that you know will brake, change it when you have the opport
unity. Not fun having those connectors broken when you are out at sea and get sewage where its not suposed to be. If you are in a marina now, it also easier to get the tools and replacing materia then if you are in some remote place.

Regards
Annsofie
Lady Annila SM 232, 1998
Still at St Barts..... :)

Skickat från min iPad

22 apr 2014 kl. 09:25 skrev "Colin Streeter" <colin.d.streeter@...>:

 

Hi Ann-Sofie
Interesting further consideration.
What year was SM232 built and how many years was it till the copper pipe corroded through? Our boat is now 13 years old and has had very little use in that time so we hope our copper pipe will last a bit longer as it looks to be in good condition inside as we clean it out.

Colin & Lauren Streeter
Island Pearl II, 2001 SM323
Brisbane, Australia


On 22 Apr 2014, at 9:44 pm, Ann-Sofie Svanberg <kanalmamman@...> wrote:

 

When you are into that job, change the copper tube before it corrodes away, with a even more nasty after work.
It is not easy to remove it, but when it is replace with av PVC tube instead.

Regards
Ann-Sofie
Lady Annila SM 232
At St Barts, Caribbean

Skickat från min iPad

22 apr 2014 kl. 05:57 skrev "Colin Streeter" <colin.d.streeter@...>:

 

Bill & Danny you guys were dead right.

We are mid way in cleaning the copper tube toilet outflow to the holding tank and it was completely blocked. What a hell of a job!!! 5 hours into it and we have bored through just half of the muck in the copper tube!!!

Our 25mm and 38mm toilet outlet hoses were completely clear however we were previously not aware of the 30" length of the copper tube inside the holding tanks, and therefore the need to also bore through and clear out all the muck in this very difficult to get to copper tube.

We have a new macerator pump on it's way here tomorrow, but are not at all surprised that nothing was moving out the bowl as no amount of power would have pushed anything at all through such a badly blocked copper tube.

To those of you who have not done this job before...... take good heed of Danny's advice .... and flush for at least a few minutes daily as I can assure you that this is one very dirty, smelly, awkward job that you don't want to do at all unless you absolutely have to. Fortunately in our case now this will not be a problem again for hopefully at least another 10 years.

Thanks again and Happy sailing

Colin & Lauren Streeter
Island Pearl II, SM #332
Brisbane, Australia



On Tue, Apr 22, 2014 at 2:41 AM, Peter Forbes <ppsforbes@...> wrote:
 

I totally second or third that too. Bill you are an inspiration.

Vicky and I are out to Goçek on Thursday evening late - are you around?

Peter

Peter Forbes

07836 209730

On 21 Apr 2014, at 11:52, Stephanie DiBelardino <stephiedib@...> wrote:

 

I will second that!
Stephanie & Ezio
SM353 indecent

Stephanie DiBelardino

On Apr 21, 2014, at 6:48 AM, Colin Streeter <colin.d.streeter@...> wrote:

 

Bill and Danny thanks a ton for your help.

Bill, I have to say you in particular are an absolute inspiration to so many of the others of us on this site with your never ending generosity of considered and detailed excellent advice which is always so very well set out and extremely helpful. Your reply here once again is yet another example of what I am referring to. In our view you are an absolute credit to this site and also to the wonderful wider Amel brand who by the way are now opening up two new boat sales agents in Australia. Over the past few months I have already spoken with some potential / prospective new boat customers (55's) about the huge value of advice and support to be found on this site. Despite there being just 4 or 5 other Australian based Amel's that we are aware of out here, because of this site in particular, and kind generous members like yourself, we have felt far better supported by the "Wider Amel Brand " since we purchased our Super Maramu 2000 than by any of our previous brands of yachts that we have owned, ie. Catalina, Jeanneau and Island Packet, all of which have actual sales outlets here in Australia. Thank you so much Bill and Judy, both Lauren and I do hope to be able to thank you appropriately in person some day should we ever be fortunate enough to sail into the same port as you.

Colin & Lauren Streeter
Island Pearl II, 2001 SM # 332
Brisbane, Australia





On Mon, Apr 21, 2014 at 7:47 PM, Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...> wrote:
 

Colin,

There is no suction in the system. 

There are 2 pumps: The water pump in the engine room pushes salt water to the toilet filling the bowel and the macerator pump on the toilet pushes everything in the bowel through a hose into holding tank. The hose connects at the bottom of the holding tank to a copper pipe which continues upward inside the tank to near the top of the holding tank.

The pump in the engine room can get clogged with small pieces of shell. This pump is easy to take apart and clean. Note that this pump probably has quick connections for the water hose...by sliding the locking lever to the outside, the hose bib disconnects from the pump housing. Be sure to mark polarity because these are DC motors and will turn in reverse and not work well if polarity is reversed...same polarity issue is true with the macerator pump on the toilet and could be your issue.

The macerator pump has two weaknesses. One is the nut securing the blade to the shaft. Jabsco distributed hundreds if not thousands these with bad stainless steel nuts which react to the stainless steel motor shaft and ruin the pump. Second is the seal. If the seal has started leaking, even a small occasional drip, it may be too late to overhaul with a seal kit. I have been very unlucky with seal overhaul kits because I have never gotten to it soon enough.

If the seal is leaking, my suggestion is to replace the entire pump. Make sure that the polarity is correct so that the blade works correctly. It will pump out if polarity is reversed, but the pump out will be very poor.

The line from the toilet to the holding tank is suspect if it has not been removed and cleaned or replaced in about 6 or 7 years. It will clog with crystallized urine and salt. The copper pipe which goes into the bottom of the holding tank and feeds the output to the top of the holding tank will also clog.

Go this this photo album and study all of the photos: 

I think that even though the Jabsco Quiet Flush has some issues, it may be the best for you. If you change it out, you may find that the new toilet will not match the mounting holes and studs. Additionally, you could have a clogged line and changing the toilet will be a frustrating and costly non-fix.

I do not recommend cleaning the lines, I recommend replacing them with the best sanitation hose you can find. Be sure to replace the joker valve on the back of the toilet where the exhaust line meets the toilet this keeps the flushed liquid from draining back into the toilet.

So bottom line here is what I would do:
  1. Open and clean the water supply pump located in the engine room. Be sure to mark orientation of each part as you take it apart.
  2. Replace the macerator pump completely. When mounting the new pump use some waterproof grease to hold the O ring in place or you will have a leak as this slips out of place easily. Also, before mounting the pump, loosen the nut on the new pump and apply Loctite then re-secure the nut.
  3. Ensure that polarity is correct before mounting the pump. push the button momentarily to see that the rotation of the blade is correct. The color code for wiring on the new pump is probably Orange on the pump = positive which is wired to Brown on the boat...then negative is Black on the pump to Blue on the boat.
  4. Replace all of the hose with the best sanitation hose that you can buy, but before you do, use the tool illustrated in the photos to ream out the copper pipe. Replace the joker valve.
If you do the above your cost will be about $300USD or less per toilet.

I hope this helps you.

Bill
BeBe #387


On Mon, Apr 21, 2014 at 6:56 AM, <colin.d.streeter@...> wrote:
 

Firstly, Seasons greetings to all the Amel family from sunny Australia


After doing repairs for the 2nd time on our Jabsco toilet I have had enough and am looking to replace the original Jabsco Silent Flush electric heads on our 2001 Super Maramu hopefully with something better.

Our problems tend to be leaking seals and/or no suction. Never problems with the macerators though, just suction.

Yes, these can be repaired, and yes, some of our guests may have done the wrong thing in what was flushed down the loo but we were just wondering if any other Amel owners out there had also got tired of constant toilet fixing and replaced the older factory fitted toilets with something new that both fitted and gives less problems? In Australia we appear to be limited to just the following 3 brands, ie. Jabsco, TMC and Planus..

Makes and model numbers would be a good discussion point for us now and any other members who wanted to upgrade to something better in the future..

Happy sailing.

Colin & Lauren Streeter
Island Pearl II, SM #332
Brisbane, Australia
.






--
Colin Streeter
0411 016 445




--
Colin Streeter
0411 016 445


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Toilet/Heads replacement - any suggested brands/models?

Ann-Sofie Svanberg <kanalmamman@...>
 

Lady Annila is built 1998, but there are more SMs that have hade the problem. It was a discussion not long ago. We hade to change them in 2012.

And I do not agree with BeBe, if there is something that you know will brake, change it when you have the opport
unity. Not fun having those connectors broken when you are out at sea and get sewage where its not suposed to be. If you are in a marina now, it also easier to get the tools and replacing materia then if you are in some remote place.

Regards
Annsofie
Lady Annila SM 232, 1998
Still at St Barts..... :)

Skickat från min iPad

22 apr 2014 kl. 09:25 skrev "Colin Streeter" <colin.d.streeter@...>:

 

Hi Ann-Sofie
Interesting further consideration.
What year was SM232 built and how many years was it till the copper pipe corroded through? Our boat is now 13 years old and has had very little use in that time so we hope our copper pipe will last a bit longer as it looks to be in good condition inside as we clean it out.

Colin & Lauren Streeter
Island Pearl II, 2001 SM323
Brisbane, Australia


On 22 Apr 2014, at 9:44 pm, Ann-Sofie Svanberg <kanalmamman@...> wrote:

 

When you are into that job, change the copper tube before it corrodes away, with a even more nasty after work.
It is not easy to remove it, but when it is replace with av PVC tube instead.

Regards
Ann-Sofie
Lady Annila SM 232
At St Barts, Caribbean

Skickat från min iPad

22 apr 2014 kl. 05:57 skrev "Colin Streeter" <colin.d.streeter@...>:

 

Bill & Danny you guys were dead right.

We are mid way in cleaning the copper tube toilet outflow to the holding tank and it was completely blocked. What a hell of a job!!! 5 hours into it and we have bored through just half of the muck in the copper tube!!!

Our 25mm and 38mm toilet outlet hoses were completely clear however we were previously not aware of the 30" length of the copper tube inside the holding tanks, and therefore the need to also bore through and clear out all the muck in this very difficult to get to copper tube.

We have a new macerator pump on it's way here tomorrow, but are not at all surprised that nothing was moving out the bowl as no amount of power would have pushed anything at all through such a badly blocked copper tube.

To those of you who have not done this job before...... take good heed of Danny's advice .... and flush for at least a few minutes daily as I can assure you that this is one very dirty, smelly, awkward job that you don't want to do at all unless you absolutely have to. Fortunately in our case now this will not be a problem again for hopefully at least another 10 years.

Thanks again and Happy sailing

Colin & Lauren Streeter
Island Pearl II, SM #332
Brisbane, Australia



On Tue, Apr 22, 2014 at 2:41 AM, Peter Forbes <ppsforbes@...> wrote:
 

I totally second or third that too. Bill you are an inspiration.

Vicky and I are out to Goçek on Thursday evening late - are you around?

Peter

Peter Forbes

07836 209730

On 21 Apr 2014, at 11:52, Stephanie DiBelardino <stephiedib@...> wrote:

 

I will second that!
Stephanie & Ezio
SM353 indecent

Stephanie DiBelardino

On Apr 21, 2014, at 6:48 AM, Colin Streeter <colin.d.streeter@...> wrote:

 

Bill and Danny thanks a ton for your help.

Bill, I have to say you in particular are an absolute inspiration to so many of the others of us on this site with your never ending generosity of considered and detailed excellent advice which is always so very well set out and extremely helpful. Your reply here once again is yet another example of what I am referring to. In our view you are an absolute credit to this site and also to the wonderful wider Amel brand who by the way are now opening up two new boat sales agents in Australia. Over the past few months I have already spoken with some potential / prospective new boat customers (55's) about the huge value of advice and support to be found on this site. Despite there being just 4 or 5 other Australian based Amel's that we are aware of out here, because of this site in particular, and kind generous members like yourself, we have felt far better supported by the "Wider Amel Brand " since we purchased our Super Maramu 2000 than by any of our previous brands of yachts that we have owned, ie. Catalina, Jeanneau and Island Packet, all of which have actual sales outlets here in Australia. Thank you so much Bill and Judy, both Lauren and I do hope to be able to thank you appropriately in person some day should we ever be fortunate enough to sail into the same port as you.

Colin & Lauren Streeter
Island Pearl II, 2001 SM # 332
Brisbane, Australia





On Mon, Apr 21, 2014 at 7:47 PM, Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...> wrote:
 

Colin,

There is no suction in the system. 

There are 2 pumps: The water pump in the engine room pushes salt water to the toilet filling the bowel and the macerator pump on the toilet pushes everything in the bowel through a hose into holding tank. The hose connects at the bottom of the holding tank to a copper pipe which continues upward inside the tank to near the top of the holding tank.

The pump in the engine room can get clogged with small pieces of shell. This pump is easy to take apart and clean. Note that this pump probably has quick connections for the water hose...by sliding the locking lever to the outside, the hose bib disconnects from the pump housing. Be sure to mark polarity because these are DC motors and will turn in reverse and not work well if polarity is reversed...same polarity issue is true with the macerator pump on the toilet and could be your issue.

The macerator pump has two weaknesses. One is the nut securing the blade to the shaft. Jabsco distributed hundreds if not thousands these with bad stainless steel nuts which react to the stainless steel motor shaft and ruin the pump. Second is the seal. If the seal has started leaking, even a small occasional drip, it may be too late to overhaul with a seal kit. I have been very unlucky with seal overhaul kits because I have never gotten to it soon enough.

If the seal is leaking, my suggestion is to replace the entire pump. Make sure that the polarity is correct so that the blade works correctly. It will pump out if polarity is reversed, but the pump out will be very poor.

The line from the toilet to the holding tank is suspect if it has not been removed and cleaned or replaced in about 6 or 7 years. It will clog with crystallized urine and salt. The copper pipe which goes into the bottom of the holding tank and feeds the output to the top of the holding tank will also clog.

Go this this photo album and study all of the photos: 

I think that even though the Jabsco Quiet Flush has some issues, it may be the best for you. If you change it out, you may find that the new toilet will not match the mounting holes and studs. Additionally, you could have a clogged line and changing the toilet will be a frustrating and costly non-fix.

I do not recommend cleaning the lines, I recommend replacing them with the best sanitation hose you can find. Be sure to replace the joker valve on the back of the toilet where the exhaust line meets the toilet this keeps the flushed liquid from draining back into the toilet.

So bottom line here is what I would do:
  1. Open and clean the water supply pump located in the engine room. Be sure to mark orientation of each part as you take it apart.
  2. Replace the macerator pump completely. When mounting the new pump use some waterproof grease to hold the O ring in place or you will have a leak as this slips out of place easily. Also, before mounting the pump, loosen the nut on the new pump and apply Loctite then re-secure the nut.
  3. Ensure that polarity is correct before mounting the pump. push the button momentarily to see that the rotation of the blade is correct. The color code for wiring on the new pump is probably Orange on the pump = positive which is wired to Brown on the boat...then negative is Black on the pump to Blue on the boat.
  4. Replace all of the hose with the best sanitation hose that you can buy, but before you do, use the tool illustrated in the photos to ream out the copper pipe. Replace the joker valve.
If you do the above your cost will be about $300USD or less per toilet.

I hope this helps you.

Bill
BeBe #387


On Mon, Apr 21, 2014 at 6:56 AM, <colin.d.streeter@...> wrote:
 

Firstly, Seasons greetings to all the Amel family from sunny Australia


After doing repairs for the 2nd time on our Jabsco toilet I have had enough and am looking to replace the original Jabsco Silent Flush electric heads on our 2001 Super Maramu hopefully with something better.

Our problems tend to be leaking seals and/or no suction. Never problems with the macerators though, just suction.

Yes, these can be repaired, and yes, some of our guests may have done the wrong thing in what was flushed down the loo but we were just wondering if any other Amel owners out there had also got tired of constant toilet fixing and replaced the older factory fitted toilets with something new that both fitted and gives less problems? In Australia we appear to be limited to just the following 3 brands, ie. Jabsco, TMC and Planus..

Makes and model numbers would be a good discussion point for us now and any other members who wanted to upgrade to something better in the future..

Happy sailing.

Colin & Lauren Streeter
Island Pearl II, SM #332
Brisbane, Australia
.






--
Colin Streeter
0411 016 445




--
Colin Streeter
0411 016 445


Re: perkins 4.154 mountings

ericmeury@...