Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Anchor Chain for Super Maramu 243

Mark Erdos
 

Kent,

 

After you shop the internet for  price you might consider talking to the yard that currently has your boat. See if than can get close to the price (or another yard in the area). It will be shipped to them and easily loaded since they can fork-lift it to the vessel.

 

Just my 2 cents J

 

 

Best regards,

 

Mark

 

SM2K #275

www.creampuff.us

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2014 2:15 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Anchor Chain for Super Maramu 243

 

 

Thanks Gary.  I'm looking for BBB , but if I can't find that I'll get the HT.  I've got ACCO samples coming of each to try on the gypsy.

Kent.


On May 12, 2014, at 11:27 AM, amelliahona <no_reply@...> wrote:

 

Hi Kent: 

 

What did you decide to hunt for?  HT, BBB? etc.  Sorry you are having so much grief with this anchor chain thing, but your experience has surely helped many on this forum.  Thanks for being willing to share. 

 

Gary Silver

s/v Liahona, SM #335  - soon to be aboard


Re: Pump Out ... SM

Gary Wells
 

Thanks Gary,

I was super puzzled by this one. It appears at first glance that there are no standpipes to draw from. The on deck caps are vented themselves. I am studying the schematics but now that we got the emptied and flushed I'll drop an inspection camera down in there and see if they may have broken. Not a huge deal; just gotta figure out how things work. One of those near-vertical learning curve things :)


Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Anchor Chain for Super Maramu 243

karkauai
 

Thanks Gary.  I'm looking for BBB , but if I can't find that I'll get the HT.  I've got ACCO samples coming of each to try on the gypsy.
Kent.


On May 12, 2014, at 11:27 AM, amelliahona <no_reply@...> wrote:

 

Hi Kent: 


What did you decide to hunt for?  HT, BBB? etc.  Sorry you are having so much grief with this anchor chain thing, but your experience has surely helped many on this forum.  Thanks for being willing to share. 

Gary Silver
s/v Liahona, SM #335  - soon to be aboard


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Solenoid for gas supply to cooker

Peter Killen
 

Many thanks Bill. 


On 12 May 2014, at 12:34, "'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

We will be turning it on in about an hour...will let you know.

CW Bill Rouse
sent from my tablet

On May 12, 2014 5:15 PM, "peter killen peterkillen@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Bill
We did a rough check having left it on for approx one hour and it measured about 60 degrees Celsius 

Peter SM 433
Pure Magic


On 12 May 2014, at 09:59, "'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Peter, if you have a method of measuring the heat after 10 minutes of bein On, I will use my laser thermometer on mine after 10 minutes and we will compare. Solenoids do generate heat...they are electromagnetic. It could be the temperature of the solenoid is normal.

CW Bill Rouse
BeBe 387
sent from my tablet

On May 12, 2014 4:46 PM, "peter killen peterkillen@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Yes it's definately 24v. We replaced it twice. Same problem both times. Last one used is an Asca unit No problem with the wiring. 
Peter
SM 433
Pure magic


On 12 May 2014, at 09:35, "'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

My guess, is that it is a 12V.

And, BTW, I saw some Chinese-made solenoids that were labeled 24V that were actually 12V.

Bill
BeBe 387




On Mon, May 12, 2014 at 1:27 PM, Richard03801 richard03801@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi are you sure it's a 24 volt unit. 

Regards 
Richard Piller

On May 12, 2014, at 8:45, "peter killen peterkillen@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

We discovered that the original solenoid had cracked. We fitted a replacement which is exactly the same but have found that it heats up to an alarming level, ie too hot to hold. Is this normal or what is the solution? We have bypassed it for the moment

Peter
SM433. Pure Magic
Currently arriving in New York



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Pump Out ... SM

amelforme
 

Amel boats delivered to most markets other than the North American area DID NOT have the standpipe in the holding tank as, unlike here in North America, there is no standardized suction fitting. Most holding tank pump out X-CONUS are just a hose you stick into the bottom of the tank and evacuate the ‘stuff’. Non-North American boats usually, but not always, have a larger diameter black plastic “bung”, very similar to the one used to seal the aft cabin top mounted access hole for the emergency tiller, to close/seal the holding tank on deck instead of the screw in type we North Americans are used to. But, NOT ALWAYS!! I have seen boats with our screw type deck fitting with no standpipe inside the tank. Why? Dunno.    

 

All the best,

Joel F. Potter

 

 

Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC

Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas

Mailing Address:  401 East Las Olas Boulevard #130-126

Fort Lauderdale, Florida  33301

Phone:  (954) 462-5869   Cell:  (954) 812-2485

Email:  jfpottercys@...

www.yachtworld.com/jfpottercys

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2014 11:52 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Pump Out ... SM

 

 

Gary:

 

I am surprised you weren't able to pump out your holding tanks in the usual fashion.  The tank and pump out situation was a bit of a mystery to me but I finally figured it out and have posted this diagram in the files section that is "anatomically correct"  as far as I can determine.  

 

 

I am glad to update it and repost it if anyone else finds it in error.  

 

The pump out standpipe goes from the deck fitting to nearly the bottom of the tank.  A vent on the aft face of the black plastic deck mounting fitting allows air to enter the tank (and also acts as an overflow if the tank is overfilled).  So, applying a good seal at the deck fitting with the pump out hose should suck the contents out.  The only reason I can see that this wouldn't work is if there is a leak in the suction standpipe that allows air to enter the standpipe (I believe that standpipe is metal and thus corrosion could have penetrated it), thus breaking the seal and preventing pump out. The suggestion by Alexander is elegant and would overcome this issue.

 

I have successfully pumped out numerous times using the standard procedure but time will tell if my system will some day suffer a similar fate.

 

To slow the problems with corrosion and scale deposits in the heads, tanks, and valves; for many years now we have flushed our toilets with fresh water only.  We do this by filling the toilets using the shower head.  I have been reticent to cross connect the fresh water system physically with the toilets.  Every few months I flush the toilet sea water circuits and pumps with fresh water by turning off the sea chest to sea water, filling numerous times with fresh water and rinsing all the sea water circuits with fresh water. 

 

Just a few thoughts, 

 

Sincerely, 



Gary Silver  

s/v Liahona   Amel SM #335 

 

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] wall lamp SM 1997

Ann-Sofie Svanberg <kanalmamman@...>
 

I am not really certain what you are asking about, but the lamps on the wall is availeble at www.plastimo.com.
If you want less light, change bulb or change to a LED with lower watt than you have today.

Regards
Annsofie
S/Y Lady Annila, SM #232, 1998



Skickat från min iPad

12 maj 2014 kl. 12:08 skrev "antoinefeltz@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>:

 

Wall sconce SM 1997. 

The varnish is dull brass, I would change the wall sconces, someone does it address a supplier to change these lamps with half lampshades.

thank you very much

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Solenoid for gas supply to cooker

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

We will be turning it on in about an hour...will let you know.

CW Bill Rouse
sent from my tablet

On May 12, 2014 5:15 PM, "peter killen peterkillen@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Bill
We did a rough check having left it on for approx one hour and it measured about 60 degrees Celsius 

Peter SM 433
Pure Magic


On 12 May 2014, at 09:59, "'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Peter, if you have a method of measuring the heat after 10 minutes of bein On, I will use my laser thermometer on mine after 10 minutes and we will compare. Solenoids do generate heat...they are electromagnetic. It could be the temperature of the solenoid is normal.

CW Bill Rouse
BeBe 387
sent from my tablet

On May 12, 2014 4:46 PM, "peter killen peterkillen@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Yes it's definately 24v. We replaced it twice. Same problem both times. Last one used is an Asca unit No problem with the wiring. 
Peter
SM 433
Pure magic


On 12 May 2014, at 09:35, "'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

My guess, is that it is a 12V.

And, BTW, I saw some Chinese-made solenoids that were labeled 24V that were actually 12V.

Bill
BeBe 387




On Mon, May 12, 2014 at 1:27 PM, Richard03801 richard03801@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi are you sure it's a 24 volt unit. 

Regards 
Richard Piller

On May 12, 2014, at 8:45, "peter killen peterkillen@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

We discovered that the original solenoid had cracked. We fitted a replacement which is exactly the same but have found that it heats up to an alarming level, ie too hot to hold. Is this normal or what is the solution? We have bypassed it for the moment

Peter
SM433. Pure Magic
Currently arriving in New York



wall lamp SM 1997

antoinefeltz@...
 

Wall sconce SM 1997. 

The varnish is dull brass, I would change the wall sconces, someone does it address a supplier to change these lamps with half lampshades.

thank you very much

 


Re: Pump Out ... SM

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Gary:

I am surprised you weren't able to pump out your holding tanks in the usual fashion.  The tank and pump out situation was a bit of a mystery to me but I finally figured it out and have posted this diagram in the files section that is "anatomically correct"  as far as I can determine.  


I am glad to update it and repost it if anyone else finds it in error.  

The pump out standpipe goes from the deck fitting to nearly the bottom of the tank.  A vent on the aft face of the black plastic deck mounting fitting allows air to enter the tank (and also acts as an overflow if the tank is overfilled).  So, applying a good seal at the deck fitting with the pump out hose should suck the contents out.  The only reason I can see that this wouldn't work is if there is a leak in the suction standpipe that allows air to enter the standpipe (I believe that standpipe is metal and thus corrosion could have penetrated it), thus breaking the seal and preventing pump out. The suggestion by Alexander is elegant and would overcome this issue.

I have successfully pumped out numerous times using the standard procedure but time will tell if my system will some day suffer a similar fate.

To slow the problems with corrosion and scale deposits in the heads, tanks, and valves; for many years now we have flushed our toilets with fresh water only.  We do this by filling the toilets using the shower head.  I have been reticent to cross connect the fresh water system physically with the toilets.  Every few months I flush the toilet sea water circuits and pumps with fresh water by turning off the sea chest to sea water, filling numerous times with fresh water and rinsing all the sea water circuits with fresh water. 

Just a few thoughts, 

Sincerely, 

Gary Silver  
s/v Liahona   Amel SM #335 



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Anchor Chain for Super Maramu 243

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Kent: 

What did you decide to hunt for?  HT, BBB? etc.  Sorry you are having so much grief with this anchor chain thing, but your experience has surely helped many on this forum.  Thanks for being willing to share. 

Gary Silver
s/v Liahona, SM #335  - soon to be aboard


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Solenoid for gas supply to cooker

Peter Killen
 

Bill
We did a rough check having left it on for approx one hour and it measured about 60 degrees Celsius 

Peter SM 433
Pure Magic


On 12 May 2014, at 09:59, "'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Peter, if you have a method of measuring the heat after 10 minutes of bein On, I will use my laser thermometer on mine after 10 minutes and we will compare. Solenoids do generate heat...they are electromagnetic. It could be the temperature of the solenoid is normal.

CW Bill Rouse
BeBe 387
sent from my tablet

On May 12, 2014 4:46 PM, "peter killen peterkillen@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Yes it's definately 24v. We replaced it twice. Same problem both times. Last one used is an Asca unit No problem with the wiring. 
Peter
SM 433
Pure magic


On 12 May 2014, at 09:35, "'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

My guess, is that it is a 12V.

And, BTW, I saw some Chinese-made solenoids that were labeled 24V that were actually 12V.

Bill
BeBe 387




On Mon, May 12, 2014 at 1:27 PM, Richard03801 richard03801@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi are you sure it's a 24 volt unit. 

Regards 
Richard Piller

On May 12, 2014, at 8:45, "peter killen peterkillen@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

We discovered that the original solenoid had cracked. We fitted a replacement which is exactly the same but have found that it heats up to an alarming level, ie too hot to hold. Is this normal or what is the solution? We have bypassed it for the moment

Peter
SM433. Pure Magic
Currently arriving in New York



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Solenoid for gas supply to cooker

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Peter, if you have a method of measuring the heat after 10 minutes of bein On, I will use my laser thermometer on mine after 10 minutes and we will compare. Solenoids do generate heat...they are electromagnetic. It could be the temperature of the solenoid is normal.

CW Bill Rouse
BeBe 387
sent from my tablet

On May 12, 2014 4:46 PM, "peter killen peterkillen@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Yes it's definately 24v. We replaced it twice. Same problem both times. Last one used is an Asca unit No problem with the wiring. 
Peter
SM 433
Pure magic


On 12 May 2014, at 09:35, "'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

My guess, is that it is a 12V.

And, BTW, I saw some Chinese-made solenoids that were labeled 24V that were actually 12V.

Bill
BeBe 387




On Mon, May 12, 2014 at 1:27 PM, Richard03801 richard03801@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi are you sure it's a 24 volt unit. 

Regards 
Richard Piller

On May 12, 2014, at 8:45, "peter killen peterkillen@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

We discovered that the original solenoid had cracked. We fitted a replacement which is exactly the same but have found that it heats up to an alarming level, ie too hot to hold. Is this normal or what is the solution? We have bypassed it for the moment

Peter
SM433. Pure Magic
Currently arriving in New York



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Anchor Chain for Super Maramu 243

karkauai
 

Thanks, Mark and Bill,
I think I know what I want now, I'm on the hunt!
Kent


From: "'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners]"
To: "amelyachtowners@..."
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2014 2:44 AM
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Anchor Chain for Super Maramu 243

 


On Mon, May 12, 2014 at 6:41 AM, Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...> wrote:
Adding to what Alan said:

Lofrans makes 3 sizes of gypsies for the Tigres 1200, standard on the SM2k:
  • #276f for 3/8" DIN 766
  • #276g for 3/8" BBB
  • #276h for 3/8" HT

BeBe's gypsy, when new from Amel, was stamped: (3/8" HT) and (D 10   P .30). We changed our anchor chain to to 3/8" (10mm) DIN 766, and had to buy a new gypsy.

I will upload a photo of the Amel installed 3/8" HT gypsy today.

Hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe 387



On Sun, May 11, 2014 at 8:07 PM, divanz620@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
The chain link size has to be very close to the gypsy size other wise the chain will jump....mine is labelled HT 3/8 P30, which means 3/8" or 10mm wire size and 30mm link length (inside measurement) , even a 29mm chain would jump off the gypsy.

This what my chain supplier in NZ told me :

Basically there are 4 chains in use around the world when you are talking 'strength' and ignore the physical size. The 'grade' is basically a strength thing, there are some other inputs but they are to do with technical stuff we don't need to know. It doesn't matter what physical size the link maybe as that has no input into the Grade. Some Standards are Grade specific but these days it's gettinga little wild west with China and knowledge free marketing departments getting too much in on the act.  For example the DIN766/A Standard, a common one, is a Grade 30. The ISO4565 Standard is a Grade 40. But Maggi use the same metal in all their anchor chains so their chains do tend to be a lot stronger than some grades require i.e. their DIN766 is a Grade 40 just as their ISO Standard is.

Talking 10mm metric chains here
Grade 70 - Break load 11,000 kilos minimum. Some calling themselves G70 in the US are more G60 so still bloody strong.
Grade 40 - Break 6,400kg. Common in the US, their G4 HT and becoming more common outside of the US due to the Maggi AQUA4
Grade 30 - Break 5,000kg. By far the most common in use around the world. Also known as Grade L, BBB, Proof Coil
China - Break 3,600kg and upward. Becoming very common as people buy on price or fall for marketing. Some chinese made are just crap, some is OK though even if it tends to rust fast. It's not often people selling this publish numbers so who knows what your getting and as they often all look the same it can be a lucky dip for the unknowing.

The CMP/Titan chain being sold in NZ and Aussie as 'Canadian' is actually chinese made, hence the marketing comment.

In the industry the standard design (safety) margin from working load to break load is 4 to 1 so we get the below -
Grade 40 (the AQUA4) - Break 6400 - WLL is a 1/4 so that's 1600kg.
Grade 30 (the PWB) - Break 5000 - WLL 1250kg

So the chances are very high your existing chain is a Grade 30, maybe a G40 but unlikely to be higher.

And to talk me out of a sale even more, at the moment to regalvanise your 10mm would cost approx $7 per metre ($3 per kg and 10mm is 2.3kg per mt) so about 1/2 the cost of a good replacement, even a bad replacement strangely. As we do lean green here we think regalvanising is a good idea as it reduces waste over time. So if your chain is only running short on galv we would suggest regalving is the smarter idea.

The only thing you need to do is to check for wear. Look in the seats of the link wherre they touch each other and look for wear. If you were a commercial boat more than 10% reduction in the link size would mean you'd be told to replace it. As you arn't commercial you can do what you like but as there isn't any hard and fast rule for recreational and so many variations in what recreational do with their chains we mention that commercial requirement just as a idea at where to start.

Cheers
Alan
SV Elyse SM437






Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Solenoid for gas supply to cooker

Peter Killen
 

Yes it's definately 24v. We replaced it twice. Same problem both times. Last one used is an Asca unit No problem with the wiring. 
Peter
SM 433
Pure magic


On 12 May 2014, at 09:35, "'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

My guess, is that it is a 12V.

And, BTW, I saw some Chinese-made solenoids that were labeled 24V that were actually 12V.

Bill
BeBe 387




On Mon, May 12, 2014 at 1:27 PM, Richard03801 richard03801@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi are you sure it's a 24 volt unit. 

Regards 
Richard Piller

On May 12, 2014, at 8:45, "peter killen peterkillen@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

We discovered that the original solenoid had cracked. We fitted a replacement which is exactly the same but have found that it heats up to an alarming level, ie too hot to hold. Is this normal or what is the solution? We have bypassed it for the moment

Peter
SM433. Pure Magic
Currently arriving in New York



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Solenoid for gas supply to cooker

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

My guess, is that it is a 12V.

And, BTW, I saw some Chinese-made solenoids that were labeled 24V that were actually 12V.

Bill
BeBe 387




On Mon, May 12, 2014 at 1:27 PM, Richard03801 richard03801@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi are you sure it's a 24 volt unit. 

Regards 
Richard Piller

On May 12, 2014, at 8:45, "peter killen peterkillen@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

We discovered that the original solenoid had cracked. We fitted a replacement which is exactly the same but have found that it heats up to an alarming level, ie too hot to hold. Is this normal or what is the solution? We have bypassed it for the moment

Peter
SM433. Pure Magic
Currently arriving in New York



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Solenoid for gas supply to cooker

Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

Hi are you sure it's a 24 volt unit. 

Regards 
Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

On May 12, 2014, at 8:45, "peter killen peterkillen@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

We discovered that the original solenoid had cracked. We fitted a replacement which is exactly the same but have found that it heats up to an alarming level, ie too hot to hold. Is this normal or what is the solution? We have bypassed it for the moment

Peter
SM433. Pure Magic
Currently arriving in New York


Solenoid for gas supply to cooker

Peter Killen
 

We discovered that the original solenoid had cracked. We fitted a replacement which is exactly the same but have found that it heats up to an alarming level, ie too hot to hold. Is this normal or what is the solution? We have bypassed it for the moment

Peter
SM433. Pure Magic
Currently arriving in New York


Re: File Upload issues: Leece-Neville adding a smart regulator

Alan Leslie
 

Bill,


I tried to upload the file also and each time I get "an error occurred..."


Alan

SV Elyse SM437


Re: File Upload issues: Leece-Neville adding a smart regulator

Andrew & Kate Lamb
 

I would be interested in this document to compare notes - I did the same thing two weeks ago with the Leese-Neville alternator and a sterling digital 24v regulator - I also took some pictures - It was a very simple modification as the Sterling regulator leaves the existing regulator in place and just connects to the field wire - so the installation was just a case of identifying the field wire (greatly helped by a diagram from this site) attaching to this and hooking up to other wires - no wires were cut and nothing removed.


Andrew

Ronpische SM472


File Upload issues: Leece-Neville adding a smart regulator

yahoogroups@...
 

Two times this morning I tried to upload a PDF file and get errors. I am not sure why...the first time with Chrome, the second time with IE.


I will continue trying to upload the file: Super Maramu Leese-Nevile alternator rewiring to fit Next Step smart regulator.pdf to: Files>>Miscellaneous 


This is a file with instructions and photos by Alan Leslie, s/v Elyse (SM437) of changing the Leece-Neville 24V alternator internal voltage regulator to an external smart voltage regulator.


If you need this and do not see it uploaded in the next two days, email me at bill"at"svbebe.com for a copy.


Bill

BeBe 387