Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bowthruster Bow Thruster Replacement Tool Instructions

Eric Freedman
 

Bob,

What model amel do you have and the hull number?

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of rossirossix4
Sent: Wednesday, October 19, 2005 12:50 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bowthruster Bow Thruster Replacment Tool
Instructions



(spelled both ways to enable future searches)

I recently received my bowthruster bow thruster replacement tool
from Amel...with no instructions. I have heard that the written
instructions that Amel sends are confusing. While I think I may
understand how to use it, could someone post a step by step set of
instructions? Special tips? Thought I might figure it out BEFORE I
need to use it.

Bob, Brittany de la Mer






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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bowthruster Bow Thruster Replacment Tool Instructions

svmalaika@...
 

I have successfully used the AMEL supplied bow thruster repair tool six times
(twice on my SM #336 and four times helping fellow owners) and use the
following procedure:

1) Lower the bow thruster until it is about 10-15 cm (4-6 in) above the fully
down position.

2) Securely fasten a hose clamp around the bow thruster shaft so it cannot
move further down.

3) If fitted, remove the collar from the base of the motor. Then remove the
four allen screws that secure the shaft to the motor.

4) Raise the bow thruster motor to the fully up position. This will leave the
bow thruster shaft down and disconnected from the motor, with room to install
the tool.

5) Fit the AMEL tool into the top of the bow thruster shaft with the hole for
the line facing aft (towards you - this is to help correctly orient the bow
thruster when you reinstall it.) and carefully secure it using the two set
screws provided.

6) Clean all grease from the top of the bow thruster shaft and the tool.
Carefully apply plastic electrical tape to the joint between the tool and shaft,
being sure to also cover the screw holes.

7) Secure the bitter end of the line from the tool, loosen the hose clamp and
lower the bow thruster assembly until it can be retieved from on deck or a
dingy using a boat hook.

8) Replace the prop (if you need instructions let me know). You may also wish
to replace the bow thruster gear oil at this time (optional). If so, remove
the tape and tool. Invert the unit to drain the oil, add new oil, replace the
tool and retape.

9) Carefully lower the unit into the water and retrieve it using the line
fixed to the tool. Ensure that the hole in the tool is facing you to properly
orient the unit. Secure the shaft with the hose clamp in about the same positon
as before. Remove the tape and tool.

10) Lower the bow thruster motor about 10-15 cm (4-6 inches). Raise the
shaft manually and mate it with the motor. Sometimes it is a bit difficult to get
the spline from the motor to mate with the drive shaft. Just keep trying and
it will suddenly come together. Secure the asssembly with the four allen screws
and replace the security collar. Remove the hose clamp.

11) Test the unit by fully raising and lowering it several times.

12) Have a beer or two!

This all may sound a bit daunting, but it really is straight forward and
simple if you take your time and think ahead. It should take about 30 minutes.

Charlie Cronheim
S/V MALAIKA II
Barcelona, SPAIN


Bowthruster Bow Thruster Replacment Tool Instructions

rossirossix4 <equinoxsolstice@...>
 

(spelled both ways to enable future searches)

I recently received my bowthruster bow thruster replacement tool
from Amel...with no instructions. I have heard that the written
instructions that Amel sends are confusing. While I think I may
understand how to use it, could someone post a step by step set of
instructions? Special tips? Thought I might figure it out BEFORE I
need to use it.

Bob, Brittany de la Mer


Perkins 4-108 exhaust elbow

John and Anne on Bali Hai <hollamby@...>
 

Hello Kiwi,
I had the same problem with the elbow on the Volvo on my last boat
when we were in Australia. A spare could be flown over from Sweden and
would have cost about £650 including delivery. A local stainless
fabricator made one up in a few days at a cost of £450 using standard
bends etc. cut to size. It fitted perfectlyas he used the old one as a
model.

Good luck, John


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Engine water temp. alarm switch for 4-108 on Sharki

Eric Freedman
 

I believe the perkins 4-108 is the same as a westerbeke 40.

Hansen marine -marblehead massachussets

Sells these parts.

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376



_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of wbs9971
Sent: Tuesday, October 18, 2005 5:44 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Engine water temp. alarm switch for 4-108 on
Sharki



I also need to replace the temp. overheat switch (it triggers the
alarm) and can't find one in the States. Anyone know who has this
part? Thanks






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Engine water temp. alarm switch for 4-108 on Sharki

wbs9971
 

I also need to replace the temp. overheat switch (it triggers the
alarm) and can't find one in the States. Anyone know who has this
part? Thanks


perkins 4-108 exhaust elbow on Sharki

wbs9971
 

It's time to replace the exhaust elbow and I am having problems
finding the right one in the US. Anyone have a source or advice?
Thanks


Looking for our former Mango

foxfun18 <reserveren@...>
 

Hi

As most of the boat owners, your glad when you buy your boat, and your
glad when you sell it. But with an Amel you will find out later that
you have sold something special.

This is the reason that we're searching for our former Mango "Lady
Anthonia" on which we sailed for 5 years. It was on one of the last
build Mango's and so far as we can remember had it hull number 72.
Because we're not sure about the hull number it can also be 71- or 74.
We sold it in 1994 in Ft Lauderdale via Joel Potter to an US citizen
who called the vessel Renaissance (or something like that). Does anyone
know where it is and/or what has happened to it ?

Thanks
Laurens & Catharina
Vos


MARAMU ORIGINAL MASTER SWITCH

Alejandro Paquin
 

Many thanks to Charlie and Volker for your enlightening and interesting
responses.

Alex Paquin
Simpatico
Maramu hull# 94
Caracas, Venezuela


Re: MARAMU ORIGINAL MASTER SWITCH

volkerkissling <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Alex,

I just took my selector apart a few days ago and learned something
interesting:

In the Secours position only the service battery bank will start the
engine. The engine battery does not have a contact in that position.
I assume AMEL did this, so the service battery will not be damaged
if there is a short circuit in the engine battery bank.

It is pretty easy to disassemble the selector. You can take away
layer after layer and verifiy, how the positions are switched.

Fair winds

Volker
LA GITANA
Marmau #82
Lagos/ Portugal

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Alex Paquin"
<alex.paquin@u...> wrote:

Can anyone help me answer these questions regarding the original
Maramu electrical master switch setup:

1. Can the selector be rotated both clockwise and counterclockwise
without causing harm to the switch or other systems?

2.If I start the engine on the SECOURS position (all battery banks
together) can I switch back to NORMAL position with the engine
running?

3.If I leave the selector in the SECOURS position with the engine
running (and both alternators running of course) will I be
charging
both battery banks at the same time? Is it safe to run the engine
in
this position any period of time?

Alex Paquin
SIMPATICO
Maramu #94


MARAMU ORIGINAL MASTER SWITCH

Alejandro Paquin
 

Can anyone help me answer these questions regarding the original
Maramu electrical master switch setup:

1. Can the selector be rotated both clockwise and counterclockwise
without causing harm to the switch or other systems?

2.If I start the engine on the SECOURS position (all battery banks
together) can I switch back to NORMAL position with the engine running?

3.If I leave the selector in the SECOURS position with the engine
running (and both alternators running of course) will I be charging
both battery banks at the same time? Is it safe to run the engine in
this position any period of time?

Alex Paquin
SIMPATICO
Maramu #94


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] MARAMU ORIGINAL MASTER SWITCH

svmalaika@...
 

I owned a Maramu (#102) for 16 years and sold her 5 years ago to purchase our
current Super Maramu 2000, so these answers are based on my memory and should
be confirmed with AMEL or another owner.

1) The switch rotates both ways.

2) Yes. Switching back to NORMAL will not cause any problems.

3) Yes, you could safely leave the switch in the SECOURS position and will be
charging both banks, however if both battery banks and alternators are
functioning properly there is no reason to do so. It is always better to keep the
alternator/battery pairs seperate.

AMEL's philosophy with the MARAMU battery/alternator set up is to provide two
way redundancy. If either an alternator or a battery bank (or one of each)
fails you can still operate both starting and house 12 volt systems until you
can repair the problem. The only problem that might be caused by "operator
error" could arise if you turned the switch to the ARRET (off) position (or removed
the grounding toggle) while the engine was running. This might cause
transient current surges that could burn out an alternator diode.

Hope this helps and that my memory is correct.

Charlie
S/V MALAIKA II
Barcelona, SPAIN


Sail Lockers for Mango

anniemno1 <anniemno1@...>
 

We lost our port forward sail locker covers (2) in Katrina.
Would appreciate any suggestions on their replacement.

John and Anne
"Annie M"
Amel Mango Hull Number 1


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Maramou, freshwater under fwd head

Mike Gough <mahili_au@...>
 

G'day Roger,
Thankyou again for advice, looks like our problems were identical and both caused by fresh water. Approx 12 months ago I made the unpleasant discovery but instead of removing the shower tray I cut away the bulkhead forward of the compression post from the saloon side, removing all damaged material from there. The post was approx 30% affected so it was not as advanced as your Mango. After much new timber and epoxy resin I think I have repaired to original strength. Water is still sometimes found after heavy rain so I am keen to solve that problem. I will let you know when I do.

Regards,
Mike Gough

Roger Banks <roger.banks@mac.com> wrote:
Hi Mike

You're reminding me now of some more detail. Our shipwright had to take
out the shower tray and renew the inner layer of the double skin
bulkhead from the shower tray downwards. At that stage we were
attributing the compression post rot to shower activity dampness
working its way down the side of the shower tray. Maybe it was a
combination of factors. I recommend you do some testing of the post and
bulkhead with a screwdriver blade without delay.

We did not have to take down the mast, however. A couple of acro-props
were used to bridge the load of the mast down to the hull while the
compression post and bulkhead were cut away. Whilst it all sounds
rather frightening, it proved to be a fairly straightforward job for a
competent shipwright and not too expensive, circa $2000 Australian.

Regards, Roger, Mango 28, Zorba

On 09/10/2005, at 11:37 AM, Mike Gough wrote:

G,day Roger,

Thankyou for info, design under main mast sounds the same and I think
water ingress from base of mast is most likely as was the case for
your Mango. I have noticed water draining into the head by way of a
special water trap as you described but this goes into the shower bay.
The walls are lined with the usual Amel vinyl lining and I am
wondering if somehow water could be moving down between the vinyl and
wall proper? I think I may have to consider lifting the mast one day
to resolve. Incidentally, I managed to mis spell the model name.
Should be Maramu!

Thanks again,
Mike Gough





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SM 2000 Cutter Rig

John and Anne on Bali Hai <hollamby@...>
 

Hello All,
My last boat was an Oyster 435 sloop rigged ketch. After checking with
Oyster I had it converted to what they called a slutter rig.
A new forestay complete with sheave box was fitted about three feet
down from the outer headstay thus avoiding the need for ruuning
backstays. A halyard exit box went into the mast and a new chainplate
was built in to the fore deck. The new forestay was normally tied down
to the mast foot but for passages it was secured to the chainplate
with a fitting made by Wichard which incorporates a screwthread and
let down handles to tighten the inner forestay, this fitting normally
lay flat on the fore deck. I did not use a furling forestay as the
inner forestay was only used to hold a bagged storm jib hanked on
ready for emergency use (it never was used!).
It could however have been used for a Solent Jib and on the SM 2000
this should improve the windward performance either independently or
in conjunction with the genoa.
A sail that we used a lot on rough passages (e.g. Fiji,Tonga and
Vanuatu to New Zealand) was a flat Yankee jib which was still
effective furled and the high cut kept it out of the heavy seas.
In my view one of the many great virtues of the SM design is its
simlicity of operation and to add complications for everyday sailing
would not be attractive to us. Indeed when I now see yachts such as
Oysters with their rows of winches, miles of lines etc I shudder at
the thought of the work that would be involved for a short handed
crew.

Good sailing, Anne and John


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Super Maramu 2000 for sale in French Med.

rainer_bichlbauer
 

Hallo John,
I own a SM 143 (1995) and would like to explore the possibility to upgrade to a SM of a somewhat younger date. Would you be so kind and let me know more about your boat. In particular I would be interested :
-price (VAT paid)
-where was the boat sailed?
-was the boat sailed always by the same person?
-how many days did you spend as an average annualy on the boat?
- how and by whom was the boat maintained?
- electronical equipment-any change to the standard equipment?
-sails are of 2001?
- any other items which might be of interest to a buyer?
- when do you intend to hand over the boat?
Best regards
Rainer Bichlbauer
e-mail: rainerbichlbauer@aon.at
Vienna/AUSTRIA


boat names..

Eric Freedman
 

http://www.boatus.com/boatgraphics/names/top10.asp



top ten boat names according to boat u.s. from 1991 to 2004

serenity seems to be a perenial favorite.

enjoy


Super Maramu 2000 for sale in French Med.

John McDougall <j.c.mcdougall@...>
 

I have an Amel 54 on order and my SM2000, "Silver Cloud" no 330,
launched May 2001 with Yanmar engine specification, is for sale. This
is a very lightly used French Med boat in excellent condition. For
sale direct at a very attractive price with free berthing in Antibes
till Apr 2006 if required. Please email if interested.
John McDougall


plasteak

Eric Freedman
 

Today I replaced my teak passerelle steps with this plastic teak like
material. The material was 1x 4" worked perfectly. I had this material on
my last boat and it held up a lot better than teak. They cut grooves in the
material at the factory. Took less time to make the steps than refinishing
the teak material.

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376

www.plasteak.com&#92; <http://www.plasteak.com/>


(No subject)

Eric Freedman
 

Today I replaced my teak passerelle steps with this plastic teak like
material. The material was 1x 4" worked perfectly. I had this material on
my last boat and it held up a lot better than teak. They cut grooves in the
material at the factory. Took less time to make the steps than refinishing
the teak material.

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376

www.plasteak.com&#92; <http://www.plasteak.com/>