Date   

Re: Light Air Sails / Bow Sprits and attachment points

Derick Gates SM2K #400 Brava
 

Alexandre,

 

I don't have a spinnaker, but I do have a mizzen ballooner.  What size is your mizzen ballooner sock from ATN?  That seems like a worthwhile addition.  anything you would change about it?

 

Derick

 

SM2K #400 Brava


 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Left Hand or Right Hand Thread Standing Rigging Turnbuckles

Mark Erdos
 

Gary,

 

I will be very interested in the cost of this. We have it in our plan to replace standing rigging on Cream Puff next summer and I would like to budget for this.

 

We too wish to keep it as original as possible. If Amel did something, there was probably good reason. And, it is the lone gazelle that gets eaten by the lion.

 

Are you stateside? Do know who is going to do the work for you? My understanding is Amel’s are rigged tighter than most other vessels and a knowledgeable rigger is key to ensure the specs are met.

 

We will be east coast next year and were looking at either Ft. Lauderdale area or Chesapeake area for a good rigger. Or, is it worthwhile to go to Amel Martinique? We are pretty clueless on this.

 

Best regards,

 

Mark

 

SM2K #275

www.creampuff.us

 

 

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Friday, September 12, 2014 12:29 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Left Hand or Right Hand Thread Standing Rigging Turnbuckles

 

 

As has been mentioned on this forum several times, there seems to be quite a difference in price when replacing the standing rigging from ECMO (Amel's Original Equipment Manufacturer, OEM)  if you use right hand thread turnbuckles as opposed to the left hand thread turnbuckles originally supplied by Amel. 

 

Knowing that Amel almost always had a good reason for doing what they did, I would like to direct this question primarily to Olivier Beaute, if you are following this forum, or anyone else for that matter that might know with authority, why Amel used left hand thread turnbuckles?  I plan on getting my new rigging from ACMO in December and would like to understand the Amel theory prior to purchasing.

 

I was originally going to use StaLoks and do it myself until I discovered the discordance in the clevis pin sizes that would require me to modify (drill or ream) the various bits on the boat to accept larger clevis pins.  Plus, I think I am getting old and perhaps a little lazy.  Still, the idea of keeping my boat as original as possible remains appealing. 

 

Thanks in advance Olivier for sharing your expertise. I still remember with fondness the time our family and you spent together in the new Amel owners program in 2001 when we took delivery.

 

Sincerely, 

 

Gary Silver, 

s/v Liahona  SM # 335


Re: bow thruster maintenance

Derick Gates SM2K #400 Brava
 

Kent,

 

Do you have the part numbers for the bow thruster lip seal and the prop shaft lip seals as used by Carolina Seal?  Are these both 60mm, but different types of seals?  I have not yet changed out either one.

 

Derick

 

SM2K #400 Brava

Currently on the hard at Bailey's Boatyard

Falmouth Harbor, Antigua


Left Hand or Right Hand Thread Standing Rigging Turnbuckles

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

As has been mentioned on this forum several times, there seems to be quite a difference in price when replacing the standing rigging from ECMO (Amel's Original Equipment Manufacturer, OEM)  if you use right hand thread turnbuckles as opposed to the left hand thread turnbuckles originally supplied by Amel. 


Knowing that Amel almost always had a good reason for doing what they did, I would like to direct this question primarily to Olivier Beaute, if you are following this forum, or anyone else for that matter that might know with authority, why Amel used left hand thread turnbuckles?  I plan on getting my new rigging from ACMO in December and would like to understand the Amel theory prior to purchasing.


I was originally going to use StaLoks and do it myself until I discovered the discordance in the clevis pin sizes that would require me to modify (drill or ream) the various bits on the boat to accept larger clevis pins.  Plus, I think I am getting old and perhaps a little lazy.  Still, the idea of keeping my boat as original as possible remains appealing. 


Thanks in advance Olivier for sharing your expertise. I still remember with fondness the time our family and you spent together in the new Amel owners program in 2001 when we took delivery.


Sincerely, 


Gary Silver, 

s/v Liahona  SM # 335


Re: watermaker

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Keith:

Sodium and Potassium metabisulfite are just different salts of the same metabisulfite moiety.  They can been used interchangeably as far as I can determine in examining their Material Data Sheets.  Once they are dissolved in water they dissociate into the metabisulfite and free sodium ion or free potassium ion.  It is the metabisulfite part that is corrosive to metal and damaging to rubber seals and o-rings, so limit the exposure of your system (i.e. don't leave it "pickled" in this stuff for weeks or months at a time like I was advised to do early on, 2001).  Use it in the recommended doses (google the data sheets if it isn't specified on the labeling) and once you have sanitized your system thoroughly rinse the system with desalinated water from your tanks.  Of course you should be monitoring the TDS (total dissolved solids) and/or EC (electrical conductivity) of your desalinated water to assure that you are producing good quality water. 

Best to you, 

Gary Silver
s/v Liahona   SM #335


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Electrical hit during transport

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

We had a 2,500 euro deductible with SevenStar Male to Marmaris.

Bill
BeBe
 

On Fri, Sep 12, 2014 at 12:52 PM, sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Bill and Kent,

Yes, the damage will be covered by the transport insurance but with a 7000 deductible :-(  Normally I have a lower deductible, but with Sevenstar Transport it was a package deal with the shipping. Everything else about the transit was excellent. 
Have found good resources in Palm Beach for insurance quotes and repairs.  Damaged is mostly to electronic equipage.  
Thanks for asking,
Craig Briggs SN#68



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Super Maramu Staysail

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Good morning Alain,

That is pretty nice you don't need any running backstay!
I noted you mentioned heel average 20° with the genoa, unless I am mistaking I believe the longer waterline is at 15°, so personally I try to heel at 15° as much as I can.
8° gained from true wind is pretty good!!!

On the last picture, what is the blue ? near the mizzen mast? Almost looks like a furled sail?

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Nassau, Bahamas


--------------------------------------------

On Fri, 9/12/14, alainfeuillet@laposte.net [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Super Maramu Staysail
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Friday, September 12, 2014, 8:45 AM


 









Hello all,
last winter in Marmaris,
we equipped Pilgrim with an inner forestay, furler and
staysail (27 sqm). I created a folder with pictures taken
during initial tests at sea.

SM2K Pilgrim's inner staysail https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/amelyachtowners/photos/albums/948654765 


You can notice that
the upper fitting is installed 50cm below mast head,
avoiding running backstays. This design has been validated
by Amel. As alreaday mentionned we have to furl the genoa
during the tack changes... that's a compromise but not
an issue because we have time and do not make regatta. If we
need to change sevral time of tack in a narrow space with
windy conditions, we use the staysail noth the genoa.
The lower fitting is in the same area as Brava
but we a simplified below deck reinforcement. We will be
back to Pilgrim end of this month and then able to provide
additional pictures if some of us are interested.
The sheet relay pulley bracket is attached on
the side of the roof, close to the main bulkhead in a very
stiff area. Inside the boat, one bracket is in the
electrical small upper locker in the toilet on one side  on
the otherand the wardrobe No need for roller track or
complicated:expensive stuff.
You can see on
the pictures that we get an angle very closed to the wind.
Sometimes I use the counter sheet to close the angle even
more.
Results: I succeeded to furl the genoa
and open the staysail in less than 1 mn allowing good
comparison; true wind around 20 knots, swell below 1m.
Speed: same with genoa and
staysail, slightly better with staysail
Heel average: genoa 20°, staysail
10°TWA: genoa 50°, staysail 42°We
get more comfort and above all our next genoa will be much
less sollicitated.All this was done with a very good
cooperation spirit with local UK Sails team that I warmly
recommmend.Hope it helpsAlainPILGRIM
SM2K #26










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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Super Maramu Staysail

alainfeuillet@...
 

Hello all,
last winter in Marmaris, we equipped Pilgrim with an inner forestay, furler and staysail (27 sqm). I created a folder with pictures taken during initial tests at sea.

SM2K Pilgrim's inner staysail https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/amelyachtowners/photos/albums/948654765

 


You can notice that the upper fitting is installed 50cm below mast head, avoiding running backstays. This design has been validated by Amel. As alreaday mentionned we have to furl the genoa during the tack changes... that's a compromise but not an issue because we have time and do not make regatta. If we need to change sevral time of tack in a narrow space with windy conditions, we use the staysail noth the genoa.
The lower fitting is in the same area as Brava but we a simplified below deck reinforcement. We will be back to Pilgrim end of this month and then able to provide additional pictures if some of us are interested.
The sheet relay pulley bracket is attached on the side of the roof, close to the main bulkhead in a very stiff area. Inside the boat, one bracket is in the electrical small upper locker in the toilet on one side  on the otherand the wardrobe No need for roller track or complicated:expensive stuff.
You can see on the pictures that we get an angle very closed to the wind. Sometimes I use the counter sheet to close the angle even more.
Results: I succeeded to furl the genoa and open the staysail in less than 1 mn allowing good comparison; true wind around 20 knots, swell below 1m.
  • Speed: same with genoa and staysail, slightly better with staysail
  • Heel average: genoa 20°, staysail 10°
  • TWA: genoa 50°, staysail 42°

We get more comfort and above all our next genoa will be much less sollicitated.

All this was done with a very good cooperation spirit with local UK Sails team that I warmly recommmend.

Hope it helps

Alain

PILGRIM SM2K #26


Electrical hit during transport

Craig Briggs
 

Bill and Kent,
Yes, the damage will be covered by the transport insurance but with a 7000 deductible :-(  Normally I have a lower deductible, but with Sevenstar Transport it was a package deal with the shipping. Everything else about the transit was excellent. 
Have found good resources in Palm Beach for insurance quotes and repairs.  Damaged is mostly to electronic equipage.  
Thanks for asking,
Craig Briggs SN#68


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] bow thruster maintenance

karkauai
 

Hi, Curt. Welcome to the group.
Follow Bill's advice and the instructions you've downloaded, and you'll be fine.
If you search through the site, you'll find several threads about the prop seals. Some have used a stainless steel sleeve of paper thin design to keep the "wearing out" bushing from wearing so quickly. Others have had a machine shop duplicate the brass bearing in stainless. It's a very expensive part if you buy replacements from Amel every two years and cheaper if you have a machine shop make you one, either in brass or in stainless. You can buy the lip seals for both the bow thruster and the main prop shaft at Carolina Seal, Inc in Charlotte, NC www.carolinaseal.com Contact Chuck Wilson cwilson "at" carolinaseal.com You'll find them a lot cheaper than buying from Amel.
Kent
SM243
Kristy

--------------------------------------------

On Fri, 9/12/14, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@svbebe.com [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] bow thruster maintenance
To: "amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Friday, September 12, 2014, 2:10 AM


 









Curt,
If I were you, and since this is
apparently your first time, I would order the things you
need from Amel (sav"at"amel.fr). 
The following is the list I gave
Amel for Super Maramu 387 parts will vary from year
to year...be sure and include your Model and Hull number
with your order.Amel Parts
Order:Propeller Shaft Wear Bushing and Seals
(3) Replacement Kit1Seal
for Amel C Drive oil drain1Set of 3
foam donuts for Bow
Thruster1Set of Nylon Screws (for propeller)
for Bow Thruster2Nylon Hub and stainless steel pin
(for propeller) for Bow
Thruster2Shaft Seal for Bow
Thruster160mm Tube Seal for Bow
Thruster1
You might want to order 2
each where I indicated if you have an extra bow thruster
prop. When we were all new with Amels we either came very
close to a line fouling the bow thruster prop, or we did
foul it and the nylon parts break away saving the internal
parts. Unfortunately the prop goes to the bottom...you
either dive for it, or you leave it on the bottom. Servicing
the bow thruster "in-the-water" requires a special
tool that is in the photo section of the Amel Owners Group
website.There are some useful photos here: https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/amelyachtowners/photos/albums/1587075684
Sometimes the hub of the
bow thruster propeller is a little difficult to remove from
the shaft. Before you try to remove it, look at the way your
new part is made. If it is difficult, patience and care are
your best resources.

If it
has been a while since it the bow thruster was serviced, you
may find it difficult to separate the shaft tube from the
electric motor. The best way is to fabricate the metal tool
shown in the photo link above. The second best way is to
disconnect the "up-line" from the top of the
motor, and from the outside of the boat you raise the motor
and quickly pull down on the thruster tube. I did this once
after using a lot of penetrating oil at the junction of the
tube and motor. It took about a dozen rather violent
downward pulls to do this. I later discovered the tool
pictured in the group of photos above.
The reason the tube will
get stuck is that there has been saltwater seepage while the
bow thruster is down. The reasons for the seepage are
generally:You forget the bow
thruster is down and sail some distance with it down
The bow thruster need service and the
seals are worn
You have deployed
the bow thruster down in rough seas.

Use plenty of waterproof
grease at the junction of the tube and the motor when you
reassemble it.
The service is not
difficult and the amount of time to complete the service
decreases with each service you perform.
I hope this helps you...and
assuming that you are new, welcome to the Group and
Amel.
BillBeBe 387

On Fri, Sep 12, 2014 at
3:16 AM, sail2live@hotmail.com
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
wrote:















 









I have downloaded and read the various PDF files
re. thruster maint. and seal replacement.

Thanks very much to those that
have posted those files.

Our Maramu is in Fajardo, PR and I intend to do
the maint. in Nov. before we launch.

Q:  Where do I buy the parts for the
maintenance and for spares aboard?

Thank you for your help.

Fair Winds

Curt Epperson
S/V Languedoc

































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Re: Genoa Furler Identification

contact@...
 

Hello Kent, If you are still looking for a knob, I can help you. I am going to take a picture of this part on a SM. If we speak about the same part, I will probably be able to delivery it. We keep in touch. Severine Karinteam


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Genoa Furler Identification

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Craig,

Wasn't the lightening strike covered by the included transport insurance?

Bill
BeBe 387

On Fri, Sep 12, 2014 at 12:41 AM, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

That's what I thought, too.  The CDrive is definitely an proprietary Amel part.
Did you find someone to work on your electrical/electronic problems?
Kent


On Sep 11, 2014, at 7:00 PM, "sangaris@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Kent - 

I never spotted any manufacturer's identification on mine, unlike the boom and mast reduction gears that were clearly marked "Bonfiglioli".  There was a motor manufacturer's nameplate, but that's not what you're after.  I had surmised that the jib furler gear assembly was custom manufactured just for Amel, rather than being an "off-the-shelf" item like the mast & boom ones.  Isn't that the case with the "C" drive gear housing that you're replacing or was there an outside manufacturer?  It does make you wonder that Maud doesn't seem to know.
Curious.
Craig SN68 Sangaris, now in Palm Beach licking wounds from lightning whilst be transported shipboard.



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] bow thruster maintenance

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Curt,

If I were you, and since this is apparently your first time, I would order the things you need from Amel (sav"at"amel.fr). 

The following is the list I gave Amel for Super Maramu 387 parts will vary from year to year...be sure and include your Model and Hull number with your order.

Amel Parts Order:

Propeller Shaft Wear Bushing and Seals (3) Replacement Kit

1

Seal for Amel C Drive oil drain

1

Set of 3 foam donuts for Bow Thruster

1

Set of Nylon Screws (for propeller) for Bow Thruster

2

Nylon Hub and stainless steel pin (for propeller) for Bow Thruster

2

Shaft Seal for Bow Thruster

1

60mm Tube Seal for Bow Thruster

1


You might want to order 2 each where I indicated if you have an extra bow thruster prop. When we were all new with Amels we either came very close to a line fouling the bow thruster prop, or we did foul it and the nylon parts break away saving the internal parts. Unfortunately the prop goes to the bottom...you either dive for it, or you leave it on the bottom. Servicing the bow thruster "in-the-water" requires a special tool that is in the photo section of the Amel Owners Group website.There are some useful photos here: https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/amelyachtowners/photos/albums/1587075684

Sometimes the hub of the bow thruster propeller is a little difficult to remove from the shaft. Before you try to remove it, look at the way your new part is made. If it is difficult, patience and care are your best resources.

If it has been a while since it the bow thruster was serviced, you may find it difficult to separate the shaft tube from the electric motor. The best way is to fabricate the metal tool shown in the photo link above. The second best way is to disconnect the "up-line" from the top of the motor, and from the outside of the boat you raise the motor and quickly pull down on the thruster tube. I did this once after using a lot of penetrating oil at the junction of the tube and motor. It took about a dozen rather violent downward pulls to do this. I later discovered the tool pictured in the group of photos above.

The reason the tube will get stuck is that there has been saltwater seepage while the bow thruster is down. The reasons for the seepage are generally:
  • You forget the bow thruster is down and sail some distance with it down
  • The bow thruster need service and the seals are worn
  • You have deployed the bow thruster down in rough seas.

Use plenty of waterproof grease at the junction of the tube and the motor when you reassemble it.

The service is not difficult and the amount of time to complete the service decreases with each service you perform.

I hope this helps you...and assuming that you are new, welcome to the Group and Amel.

Bill
BeBe 387


On Fri, Sep 12, 2014 at 3:16 AM, sail2live@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

I have downloaded and read the various PDF files re. thruster maint. and seal replacement.

Thanks very much to those that have posted those files.

Our Maramu is in Fajardo, PR and I intend to do the maint. in Nov. before we launch.

Q:  Where do I buy the parts for the maintenance and for spares aboard?

Thank you for your help.

Fair Winds

Curt Epperson
S/V Languedoc




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Light Air Sails / Bow Sprits and attachment points

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Terry,

Crossing the Pacific, we used the double headsails for any wind direction of 155 Port to 155 Starboard.

We do have an Asymmetrical which we attach to the bow roller...we do not use the Asymmetrical for crossing oceans, but sometimes use it for short hops. It is in a sock and attached at the tack with a quick release shackle...one that will break open when you pull the cord while it is under pressure. If we need to get the Asymmetrical socked in a hurry, we pull the shackle release and the tack flies up and to leeward...then simply sock the sail. 

I hope this helps...and I am not sure about the strength of the bow roller for this method, but have done it this way for 8+ years.

Bill
BeBe 387 

On Thu, Sep 11, 2014 at 8:02 PM, terencesingh@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Good day, I would like to get an idea of how many Amel owners have retrofitted their boats with light Air sails and of more interest how often are they used. I am specifically referring to Spinnakers, Code Zero's, Gennakers etc. 

My wife and I are preparing for an extended cruise across the Pacific and hopefully beyond. We have the factory standard Headsail Balooner and Mizzen Balooner. Anything upwind of the Balloners useful work angle seems to be a gaping hole with respect to light air.

The other area of interest is how the sail tack is attached to the boat. I have no faith that the bow roller has the strength to serve this purpose. Considering adding a separate bow sprit attached to the deck or hull.


Anything that can be shared would be appreciated.



Terry&Dena

SV Libby #196

San Diego



bow thruster maintenance

curtepp
 

I have downloaded and read the various PDF files re. thruster maint. and seal replacement.

Thanks very much to those that have posted those files.

Our Maramu is in Fajardo, PR and I intend to do the maint. in Nov. before we launch.

Q:  Where do I buy the parts for the maintenance and for spares aboard?

Thank you for your help.

Fair Winds

Curt Epperson
S/V Languedoc



Re: Bow Thruster Prop ... yes, I'm new here.

Ian Park
 

It has a pin that goes through the middle like a shear pin. The nylon bolts hold it all together. The nylon bolts are the shearing parts, not the metal pin. It us simple and it works (recent unfortunate experience with a stray rope). I put a new prop on wearing a mask from in the water. It wasn't difficult.

Ian SN 96 Ocean Hobo


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Genoa Furler Identification

karkauai
 

That's what I thought, too.  The CDrive is definitely an proprietary Amel part.
Did you find someone to work on your electrical/electronic problems?
Kent


On Sep 11, 2014, at 7:00 PM, "sangaris@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Kent - 

I never spotted any manufacturer's identification on mine, unlike the boom and mast reduction gears that were clearly marked "Bonfiglioli".  There was a motor manufacturer's nameplate, but that's not what you're after.  I had surmised that the jib furler gear assembly was custom manufactured just for Amel, rather than being an "off-the-shelf" item like the mast & boom ones.  Isn't that the case with the "C" drive gear housing that you're replacing or was there an outside manufacturer?  It does make you wonder that Maud doesn't seem to know.
Curious.
Craig SN68 Sangaris, now in Palm Beach licking wounds from lightning whilst be transported shipboard.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Light Air Sails / Bow Sprits and attachment points

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Hello Terry,

Mine (SM2K #289 now NIKIMAT) came with a removable bow spirit installed by the (long term) previous owner.
As I mentioned previously for the staysail, he is in my opinion a very knowledgeable sailor, own several Amel including Mango, Santorin, SM2K and currently Amel 54.

During our various discussions as much as he admitted the "staysail" never really met his expectations...
He clearly said adding the Spinnaker was a great addition, easy to install and also providing more point of sail than the ballooner.
The spinnaker sail is stored in the same locker as the ballooner (I put it below it), also in a bag.

I personally never used the spinnaker. But I just took some pictures of the (partial) set-up.
As you will see, I added the 2 dyneema shackle to go around the big forward cleat.
I believe this is a good solution, if that cleat can hold the anchor, then it can surely be attached to the bow spirit.
I purchase dyneema lines, which when I use the removable bow spirit will tie around it and the forward cleat to avoid lateral move of the bow spirit.

At the top of the mast, there is a ? (forgot the name in English) like a block to raise the halyard of the spinnaker. Unlike the one for the ballooner, it is outside the mast.
Just like the Mizzen Ballooner, the spinnaker is in a sock (from http://www.atninc.com).
Also there is a block at the tack that allow to raise and lower the tack.
Some of the internet being down in Nassau, I couldn't browse for the video on their site, but there is/was one.

Note from the (long term) previous owner: using the removable bow spirit only give a couple of degree more.
He really suggested, for the first time to use it without it and attach (somewhere on the bow) (I will have to look for the notes).

Note: Last year, trying the ballooner for the first time, I made the unfortunate mistake to twist both halyard (spinnaker and ballooner).
This was a stressful experience resulting in the ballooner falling into the water, then the halyard for the genoa breaking down...
So should you go with this rigging, make sure the spinnaker and the ballooner halyards are free from each other.

Anyway, pictures of the set-up
http://www.nikimat.com/bow_spirit_spinnaker.html

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Bay Street Marina, Nassau, New Providence, The Bahamas.



--------------------------------------------

On Thu, 9/11/14, terencesingh@mac.com [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Light Air Sails / Bow Sprits and attachment points
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, September 11, 2014, 3:02 PM


 









Good day, I would like to get an idea
of how many Amel owners have retrofitted their boats with
light Air sails and of more interest how often are they
used. I am specifically referring to Spinnakers, Code
Zero's, Gennakers etc. My wife and
I are preparing for an extended cruise across the Pacific
and hopefully beyond. We have the factory standard Headsail
Balooner and Mizzen Balooner. Anything upwind of the
Balloners useful work angle seems to be a gaping hole with
respect to light air.The other area of
interest is how the sail tack is attached to the boat. I
have no faith that the bow roller has the strength to serve
this purpose. Considering adding a separate bow sprit
attached to the deck or hull.
Anything that can be shared would be
appreciated.

Terry&DenaSV Libby
#196San Diego
















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Re: Genoa Furler Identification

Craig Briggs
 

Hi Kent - 
I never spotted any manufacturer's identification on mine, unlike the boom and mast reduction gears that were clearly marked "Bonfiglioli".  There was a motor manufacturer's nameplate, but that's not what you're after.  I had surmised that the jib furler gear assembly was custom manufactured just for Amel, rather than being an "off-the-shelf" item like the mast & boom ones.  Isn't that the case with the "C" drive gear housing that you're replacing or was there an outside manufacturer?  It does make you wonder that Maud doesn't seem to know.
Curious.
Craig SN68 Sangaris, now in Palm Beach licking wounds from lightning whilst be transported shipboard.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow Thruster Prop ... yes, I'm new here.

Gary Wells
 

OK .. Got it! Thanks. It was just stuck hard. Two properly placed pry bars and a tap on the shaft with a plastic hammer did the trick. I'm just shy yet, I guess.